dude. i think you are my long lost brother! i have collected race banners from all over the country for the past 15 years. my entire garage looks like part of the NASCAR circuit! you got great taste, man!
Thanks wb. I do enjoy just about anything that has a motor in it! Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
I've noticed a common thread with people who have reception range problems with their garage door openers: they almost all have Liftmasters. So naturally instead of simply manufacturing their products with adequate reception range right out of the box, they manufacture it with crappy range and then sell you an additional kit to give your opener the functionality it should have had from day one.
Well, not precisely. Mine has worked for 23 years without issue, but now suddenly this problem started. And this opener is on a 16X9 door.. large. The exact same model is on the adjacent door, which is not having this signal issue at all. The one that is struggling is the door I always use. It may be a sign that the unit is on its last legs.
Hello, I didn't. I wonder if the control board's receiver simply got weaker over time. Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
I used coax cable but I thought I would give a quick test without grounding the coax shield to the metal opener to save time. It worked beautifully with a Cone Shaped Wire connector since I couldn't find my crimp connectors. Now I can open the garage with a single press from a long distance. Great ! Thanks !
Thanks for your comment. I just changed the bulb in mine and started having problems with the signal. I thought I broke the wire when I opened the white plastic door. It was a much larger LED bulb. Had no clue that would cause interference.
After days of trying to figure it out I found a short video here. It was as I had expected. It was my outdoor camera. I unplugged it and I could open door from across the street. I extended to antenna wire across the ceiling and gust through the top of the door. Works good enough so I still have camera and don’t have to get out to open the door
Some are claiming it happens when you use an LED bulb in the opener. I switched mine out, and that wasn't it, but I did recently install a wifi camera just next to the opener. I'll try unplugging it, but I think I'll choose an antenna extension over ditching the camera.
My LiftMaster _used_ to work much better in the past than it does now. I used to open the door from about 1000 feet away on my approach to the driveway but now it only works when I am practically right up to the door. Its antenna wire is dangling down from the light, too. I have a big spool of coax already, I wonder if I could fashion my own cheap antenna. I've often wondered why it's stopped working as well as it used to?
Hi, I also am facing the same issue with an older garage door opener. Would you please give me details on how exactly did you splice and the original receiver wire (tiny purple one that you have) and connect it to the Coaxial cable that came with the kit as well as grounding of the cable. Thank you so much!!
Hi Thomas. Here is a link to the original instructions that show you to make that connection. p.widencdn.net/zgpapg/114A1166 Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
Hello. The coaxial cable consists of a solid wire in the center with a braded shield made out of other wire that goes all the way around the cable. The single wire that is currently coming from your opener goes to that solid center wire. The braided shield wire on the coax cable gets attached to the opener using some existing screw that screws into the metal frame of the opener. The instructions will show you all that. You can see the instructions if you stop my video. Or, you can search for the instructions for that part number and find the instructions online. Rick
Doesn't sound like that is the case here, but for others, check the bulbs in the opener to see if they are the problem. It's easy to test. Try the opener with the bulbs on, and when they are off, and see if there is a difference.
@@peterr5262 If you want an LED bulb, they make garage door specific LED bulbs that are designed to not interfere with the opener. The selection is really limited, tho, I've only found "60 watt" equivalent bulbs(I think "Genie" brand?), but I didn't use my opener as a main light source, tho. Only for coming and going at night, which I prefer dimmer light for. For my main garage interior lights I use 300 watt incandescents. :) I tried LED because I'm thinking they'll be the most vibration resistant.
I have a Genie and ever since the 5G Network rolled out my 2 garage openers (with new batteries) is not working very well so I do not think it is limited to Liftmaster. One guy on RUclips says it is because LED lights are interfering with a signal. I don’t know…I am still working my way through this problem.
Rick Pam here from Oklahoma I need help. What can I put on the bottom of my garage door to keep the water from coming under the door when it rains really hard I think the concrete man didn’t put it enough slope when he poured the concrete when we built our house help help help thank you very much.
Hi Diana. The last I looked they had 2 kits. I used this one. I cut the one connector off and stripped the wire to the length I needed. www.liftmaster.com/antenna-kit-with-adapter/p/041A3504-1
Hi Platon, I don't know. This all happened over 10-15 years: Yes. Every time I had issues the first thing I did was replace the remote batteries, and reset the unit by unplugging it. The remotes worked in those locations - then they didn't. I replaced the Control Board - and they worked again. Over time - they didn't work again. I replaced the Control Board again - and they worked again. The next time it happened: When I was searching for a solution, this extender showed up. That has been the permanent fix.
Great idea. I'll have to try it out. I have a Genie® opener, but as it says in your narrative, that shouldn't matter. PS What kind of car is the red/orange (I'm a bit colorblind 😎) car ?? I couldn't quite figure it out.
@@rickstid-bits I WILL, thanks. And, as a Mopar GUY, I'm loving that you have a Challenger. I THOUGHT that's what it was ,but I wasn't sure. NICE car!!👍😀
Disconnect your lights on opener by taking bulbs out bet it works. If so buy noise suppressor for a few bucks and install on wires powering light cost a couple bucks and easy also called Roslyn rings. That antenna extender is silly and not necessary ALSO called Rosalyn rings.
I've had LED bulbs in mine for over 5 years now. And my garage door is just now losing signal. I took the bulbs out and still having the same issue. Definitely not the led bulbs.
Hi Sam. Thank you for commenting. I researched interference a lot, troubleshot all I could, unplugged devices; and couldn't make any improvements. With all the electronic devices we all have (and more coming in the future), I was thrilled that this $29 kit made such a radical difference.
@@rickstid-bits I've got a similar problem with my car remote. It works 70 feet up the street, but not in front of the door. It work in special spots. I'll try adding an antenna this week. Or soon.
dude. i think you are my long lost brother! i have collected race banners from all over the country for the past 15 years. my entire garage looks like part of the NASCAR circuit! you got great taste, man!
Thanks wb. I do enjoy just about anything that has a motor in it!
Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
I've noticed a common thread with people who have reception range problems with their garage door openers: they almost all have Liftmasters. So naturally instead of simply manufacturing their products with adequate reception range right out of the box, they manufacture it with crappy range and then sell you an additional kit to give your opener the functionality it should have had from day one.
Bro... So holy fucking shit. Fuck Liftmaster then, we've been having problems all the damn freaking time from the shitty antenna they have
Well, not precisely. Mine has worked for 23 years without issue, but now suddenly this problem started. And this opener is on a 16X9 door.. large.
The exact same model is on the adjacent door, which is not having this signal issue at all. The one that is struggling is the door I always use. It may be a sign that the unit is on its last legs.
This was so helpful. In your research, did you ever learn why you lived there so long with no problems and then you suddenly had a weak signal?
Hello, I didn't. I wonder if the control board's receiver simply got weaker over time. Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
I used coax cable but I thought I would give a quick test without grounding the coax shield to the metal opener to save time.
It worked beautifully with a Cone Shaped Wire connector since I couldn't find my crimp connectors. Now I can open the garage with a single press from a long distance. Great ! Thanks !
Hi Dan. You’re welcome. I’m glad it worked for you too. Thank you for leaving me a comment. Rick.
I took out the LED bulbs and put in older CF bulbs and it works better now.
Thanks for your comment. I just changed the bulb in mine and started having problems with the signal. I thought I broke the wire when I opened the white plastic door. It was a much larger LED bulb. Had no clue that would cause interference.
After days of trying to figure it out I found a short video here. It was as I had expected. It was my outdoor camera. I unplugged it and I could open door from across the street. I extended to antenna wire across the ceiling and gust through the top of the door. Works good enough so I still have camera and don’t have to get out to open the door
Was it a wireless outdoor camera or wired?
@@garrettchan9990 its connected to the internet but plugs in for power
I thought it was our camera's too, but we've been having this problem for a long ass time.
Some are claiming it happens when you use an LED bulb in the opener. I switched mine out, and that wasn't it, but I did recently install a wifi camera just next to the opener. I'll try unplugging it, but I think I'll choose an antenna extension over ditching the camera.
Thank you Rick! Appreciate the part number and info. Also, Very Nice 68? Bird!! I used to own a 67 and wish I had never sold it.
You're welcome Will. Yes. 68. I've owned it for 41 years. I was very fortunate to be able to keep it during my younger years.
My LiftMaster _used_ to work much better in the past than it does now. I used to open the door from about 1000 feet away on my approach to the driveway but now it only works when I am practically right up to the door. Its antenna wire is dangling down from the light, too. I have a big spool of coax already, I wonder if I could fashion my own cheap antenna. I've often wondered why it's stopped working as well as it used to?
Hi Aaron, Mine seemed to get weaker with age also. I don't know why. Rick
Same problem with my Marantec opener..
Hi, I also am facing the same issue with an older garage door opener. Would you please give me details on how exactly did you splice and the original receiver wire (tiny purple one that you have) and connect it to the Coaxial cable that came with the kit as well as grounding of the cable. Thank you so much!!
Hi Thomas. Here is a link to the original instructions that show you to make that connection. p.widencdn.net/zgpapg/114A1166
Thank you for leaving a comment. Please click on the words “Rick’s Tid-Bits” underneath the video to go to my RUclips channel. I think you’ll find some helpful and unique tips in my How to Make Life Easier or Better section. ruclips.net/channel/UCc-IuUFzC2Tyv06KzJyBESg Rick
@@rickstid-bits Thank you very much!
Perfect. Thank you
Do you pick up ameila earhart calling for help?
🙂 Only on a really good day when the stars align perfectly. 🙂
Will it work on other openers?
Hi Don. It should.
How do I “ground” it? I don’t know much about this stuff
Hello. The coaxial cable consists of a solid wire in the center with a braded shield made out of other wire that goes all the way around the cable. The single wire that is currently coming from your opener goes to that solid center wire. The braided shield wire on the coax cable gets attached to the opener using some existing screw that screws into the metal frame of the opener. The instructions will show you all that. You can see the instructions if you stop my video. Or, you can search for the instructions for that part number and find the instructions online. Rick
Doesn't sound like that is the case here, but for others, check the bulbs in the opener to see if they are the problem. It's easy to test. Try the opener with the bulbs on, and when they are off, and see if there is a difference.
I did add a bulb, LED, and noticed almost immediately the problem, do you have an answer to that?
@@peterr5262 If you want an LED bulb, they make garage door specific LED bulbs that are designed to not interfere with the opener. The selection is really limited, tho, I've only found "60 watt" equivalent bulbs(I think "Genie" brand?), but I didn't use my opener as a main light source, tho. Only for coming and going at night, which I prefer dimmer light for.
For my main garage interior lights I use 300 watt incandescents. :)
I tried LED because I'm thinking they'll be the most vibration resistant.
great video. would you be able to tell me the actual exposed length of the screwed in antenna? thank you.
Hello, I'm sorry. I can't. We moved a few months ago. You can call LiftMaster. They should be able to tell you. Rick
I have a Genie and ever since the 5G Network rolled out my 2 garage openers (with new batteries) is not working very well so I do not think it is limited to Liftmaster. One guy on RUclips says it is because LED lights are interfering with a signal. I don’t know…I am still working my way through this problem.
Rick Pam here from Oklahoma I need help. What can I put on the bottom of my garage door to keep the water from coming under the door when it rains really hard I think the concrete man didn’t put it enough slope when he poured the concrete when we built our house help help help thank you very much.
Pro tip: if you’ve recently installed 8 foot LED bypass ballast lights right over top of your opener, they will interfere with the signal.
I fixed with extended wire but going back down to check if its LED light
Hi Rick I was wondering were you found the antenna ?
Hi Diana. The last I looked they had 2 kits. I used this one. I cut the one connector off and stripped the wire to the length I needed.
www.liftmaster.com/antenna-kit-with-adapter/p/041A3504-1
Why all of a sudden were you having difficulty using remote ?
Hi Platon,
I don't know.
This all happened over 10-15 years:
Yes. Every time I had issues the first thing I did was replace the remote batteries, and reset the unit by unplugging it.
The remotes worked in those locations - then they didn't.
I replaced the Control Board - and they worked again.
Over time - they didn't work again.
I replaced the Control Board again - and they worked again.
The next time it happened: When I was searching for a solution, this extender showed up. That has been the permanent fix.
Great idea. I'll have to try it out. I have a Genie® opener, but as it says in your narrative, that shouldn't matter.
PS What kind of car is the red/orange (I'm a bit colorblind 😎) car ?? I couldn't quite figure it out.
Hi Charlie, 2009 Challenger SRT. Orange. Let me know how it works for you.
@@rickstid-bits
I WILL, thanks. And, as a Mopar GUY, I'm loving that you have a Challenger. I THOUGHT that's what it was ,but I wasn't sure. NICE car!!👍😀
Disconnect your lights on opener by taking bulbs out bet it works. If so buy noise suppressor for a few bucks and install on wires powering light cost a couple bucks and easy also called Roslyn rings. That antenna extender is silly and not necessary ALSO called Rosalyn rings.
Where do you get the noise suppressor?
Any electronic shop, Amazon definitely Ham Radio shops have them, I’ve seen the FCC give them away back in the day and they still may.
But if you have a remote issues make sure you don’t have LED lightbulbs in the motor
I've had LED bulbs in mine for over 5 years now. And my garage door is just now losing signal. I took the bulbs out and still having the same issue. Definitely not the led bulbs.
Some where in your house you have a electrical interference.
Hi Sam. Thank you for commenting. I researched interference a lot, troubleshot all I could, unplugged devices; and couldn't make any improvements. With all the electronic devices we all have (and more coming in the future), I was thrilled that this $29 kit made such a radical difference.
@@rickstid-bits I've got a similar problem with my car remote. It works 70 feet up the street, but not in front of the door. It work in special spots. I'll try adding an antenna this week. Or soon.
If I had a spectrum analyzer, that'd help figure it out...
Wow. 23 years and you never painted the drywall?
Well are you gonna go help take all that shit off the walls?!
R