Omg! Thank you so much! I installed a remote keypad and suddenly none of my remote controls were working. I watched countless videos and reset the remotes without success and was ready to call for a professional...until I found your video. I remember than when I opened the garage motor lid, I noticed an old bulb and proceeded to change it immediately to a LED one before working on installing the remote keypad. I just changed it back to that old bulb and, like magic, everything is working!!! Thank you so much!
Thanks man. Such a subtle interference can cause such a huge annoyance having to park my car every so often, walk into my house to then open the garage from the inside just to let my car in. Appreciate u breaking this info down. At times it’ll work then there will be multiple weeks in a row my remote doesn’t work standing right at my garage door. All I did was remove the light bulbs and now I can open my garage door all the way across the street at my neighbors house. Ordered the light bulbs u suggested and are coming in today. Thanks once again for your video!
Regardless of whether or not there is a light bulb in my garage door opener, no remotes work when the light in the garage door opener is in the on position. If I turn the light off at the hardwired button on the wall, all remotes work (one time b/c the light is supposed to automatically come on when the door is opening and closing and then stays on for a few minutes). It will then work again after the light turns off. Any suggestions?
exact same issue except removing all LED bulbs didn't change anything im at a total loss, remote works 100% inside the garage but hardly at all outside even after attaching a wire to the antenna sticking outside the garage door
@@GarageDoorGuidance Thanks for the reply! None that are receiving power I got a 41a5021-1m-315, and my remote is a Chamberlain 373LM 3-Button (which goes for a comedic 77$ on amazon, which is easily 1500% markup from production cost). The date on the remote says "06/06" which i assume means june 2006. My only possible idea is that somehow the two receivers are connected to both garage doors and the one I left alone is the one that actually does all the detecting for both doors; do you know if that's how these typically work? I assumed the receiver would always correspond to the relevant door
@GanerRL got it thanks for the information. The other door is working fine and this one is not. My guess at this point is the receiver on the logic board itself is bad. I’ve had some old timers say they cleaned the back of the board and it would work afterwards but I can’t remember what they’d use. Not sure I recommend that but it’s an option to try before buying a $100 logic board lol. Each motor has its own receiver so the other one shouldn’t have anything to do with the one giving you trouble
@@GarageDoorGuidance Sorry I may have miscommunicated, the problem is true for both doors, I was just asking if they were separate. As they are, this means that the old remotes are the likely culprit, I think? although these issues are true with both remotes and effect both doors but I eliminated what I believe to be all likely sources of interference (even getting close to the wire I added that hangs outside the door doesn't make it work).
@GanerRL Sorry I didn’t realize they’re both doing it. Very interesting. I doubt that both receivers went bad at the same time. So it would have to be the remote if you’ve gotten rid of all possible interference. amzn.to/489M1i2 This universal remote should work fine for your openers ^ id try that ( and return it if it doesn’t work )
I tried everything other that removing/repairing the opener logic board...the opener worked fine with my 4 remotes (cars, hand held, wall pad) for several years with an LED bulb installed. All of a sudden it wouldn't work on ocassion with any of the remotes. I tried a CFL bulb, incadescent bulb, no bulb...reprogrammed the remotes, checked batteries, etc. Finally I noticed a pattern...the remotes were not working when the opener was powering up the bulb socket to light the bulb. When I turned the bulb off (via wall control), all remotes worked fine. The AC power to the bulb socket must be interfering with the remotes. I have a 27-year old 1/3-hp Liftmaster opener....and we make sure the AC power to the bulb is off when we want to user a remote.
Very interesting, sounds like you’re right maybe when that is traveling through the board to power it, it interfered with the receiver portion of the board. At 27 years old though it may be time to update 😅
@@GarageDoorGuidance Yes, I came within 1 day of having it totally replaced when I finally figured out the failure pattern (I like the new openers with WiFI access and an App). Mechanically it seems OK...I haven't had to adjust the chain for years...🙂
This was the exact solution to my problem. Thanks for your post. I haven't used light bulbs in my 30 year old craftsman opener for years. Sometimes I use my wall pad to open and close the door. I must have inadvertently hit the light button on one occasion without knowing it and turned on the power to the empty light socket. After reading your post I pressed the light button again on the wall pad and all my remotes including the my car's built-in remote began working normally once again. Your post was the needle in the haystack I was lucky to find. Thanks again.
@@mikipete401 Glad it helped your installation. Our remotes worked fine with the bulb off for a couple of months, but then remotes started having problems again, so I ended up replacing the old opener (~27 years old) with and new Liftmaster model. An interesting thing I learned about the new Liftmasters...they don't support the HomeLink system in older cars...e.g., the HomeLink system in our 2012 KIA Soul would not work with the new LiftMaster but the HomeLink in our 2015 Volvo would work. You can buy an electronic device that converts the older HomeLink signals in older cars to a signal that the new LiftMaster understands...but we decided to put the remote that comes with the new opener in our 2012 KIA.
My problem seems to be that the right side of the clicker emits a light, but rarely activates the door, while the left side works perfectly. My guess is that the clicker part inside isn't in contact with the case. Don't know what I can do about that.
If that’s the case you’d have to jerry rig it to work the way it should. Likely a plastic extension has broken off and you’d have to glue it or something
I’m a garage door tech and that’s true. I had a customer that installed 2 new led bulbs to the front of their garage and the opener frequency was not working any longer. As soon as I installed the regular bulbs it started working again.
Omg! Thank you so much! I installed a remote keypad and suddenly none of my remote controls were working. I watched countless videos and reset the remotes without success and was ready to call for a professional...until I found your video. I remember than when I opened the garage motor lid, I noticed an old bulb and proceeded to change it immediately to a LED one before working on installing the remote keypad. I just changed it back to that old bulb and, like magic, everything is working!!! Thank you so much!
LED bulbs you depicted in your video were the culprit in my case. Would have never figured this out without your video. Simple fix! Thanks
Thanks man. Such a subtle interference can cause such a huge annoyance having to park my car every so often, walk into my house to then open the garage from the inside just to let my car in. Appreciate u breaking this info down. At times it’ll work then there will be multiple weeks in a row my remote doesn’t work standing right at my garage door. All I did was remove the light bulbs and now I can open my garage door all the way across the street at my neighbors house. Ordered the light bulbs u suggested and are coming in today. Thanks once again for your video!
led bulb in the opener itself was the source of the interference. thanks for posting this!
Thank you for this video! Did not realize this and you have saved us much frustration.
It was my bulbs! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the help!
Worked for me, thanks a lot!
Regardless of whether or not there is a light bulb in my garage door opener, no remotes work when the light in the garage door opener is in the on position. If I turn the light off at the hardwired button on the wall, all remotes work (one time b/c the light is supposed to automatically come on when the door is opening and closing and then stays on for a few minutes). It will then work again after the light turns off. Any suggestions?
That is an interesting case, I have not had that issue before. Would have to be something to do with the logic board itself at that point
exact same issue except removing all LED bulbs didn't change anything im at a total loss, remote works 100% inside the garage but hardly at all outside even after attaching a wire to the antenna sticking outside the garage door
Any LED’s in the vicinity? ( within 10ft or so )
How old is your opener ? ( usually a label on the head somewhere with a date )
@@GarageDoorGuidance
Thanks for the reply!
None that are receiving power
I got a 41a5021-1m-315, and my remote is a Chamberlain 373LM 3-Button (which goes for a comedic 77$ on amazon, which is easily 1500% markup from production cost). The date on the remote says "06/06" which i assume means june 2006.
My only possible idea is that somehow the two receivers are connected to both garage doors and the one I left alone is the one that actually does all the detecting for both doors; do you know if that's how these typically work? I assumed the receiver would always correspond to the relevant door
@GanerRL got it thanks for the information. The other door is working fine and this one is not. My guess at this point is the receiver on the logic board itself is bad. I’ve had some old timers say they cleaned the back of the board and it would work afterwards but I can’t remember what they’d use. Not sure I recommend that but it’s an option to try before buying a $100 logic board lol. Each motor has its own receiver so the other one shouldn’t have anything to do with the one giving you trouble
@@GarageDoorGuidance Sorry I may have miscommunicated, the problem is true for both doors, I was just asking if they were separate. As they are, this means that the old remotes are the likely culprit, I think? although these issues are true with both remotes and effect both doors but I eliminated what I believe to be all likely sources of interference (even getting close to the wire I added that hangs outside the door doesn't make it work).
@GanerRL Sorry I didn’t realize they’re both doing it. Very interesting. I doubt that both receivers went bad at the same time. So it would have to be the remote if you’ve gotten rid of all possible interference.
amzn.to/489M1i2
This universal remote should work fine for your openers ^ id try that ( and return it if it doesn’t work )
I tried everything other that removing/repairing the opener logic board...the opener worked fine with my 4 remotes (cars, hand held, wall pad) for several years with an LED bulb installed. All of a sudden it wouldn't work on ocassion with any of the remotes. I tried a CFL bulb, incadescent bulb, no bulb...reprogrammed the remotes, checked batteries, etc. Finally I noticed a pattern...the remotes were not working when the opener was powering up the bulb socket to light the bulb. When I turned the bulb off (via wall control), all remotes worked fine. The AC power to the bulb socket must be interfering with the remotes. I have a 27-year old 1/3-hp Liftmaster opener....and we make sure the AC power to the bulb is off when we want to user a remote.
Very interesting, sounds like you’re right maybe when that is traveling through the board to power it, it interfered with the receiver portion of the board. At 27 years old though it may be time to update 😅
@@GarageDoorGuidance Yes, I came within 1 day of having it totally replaced when I finally figured out the failure pattern (I like the new openers with WiFI access and an App). Mechanically it seems OK...I haven't had to adjust the chain for years...🙂
This was the exact solution to my problem. Thanks for your post. I haven't used light bulbs in my 30 year old craftsman opener for years. Sometimes I use my wall pad to open and close the door. I must have inadvertently hit the light button on one occasion without knowing it and turned on the power to the empty light socket. After reading your post I pressed the light button again on the wall pad and all my remotes including the my car's built-in remote began working normally once again. Your post was the needle in the haystack I was lucky to find. Thanks again.
@@mikipete401 Glad it helped your installation. Our remotes worked fine with the bulb off for a couple of months, but then remotes started having problems again, so I ended up replacing the old opener (~27 years old) with and new Liftmaster model. An interesting thing I learned about the new Liftmasters...they don't support the HomeLink system in older cars...e.g., the HomeLink system in our 2012 KIA Soul would not work with the new LiftMaster but the HomeLink in our 2015 Volvo would work. You can buy an electronic device that converts the older HomeLink signals in older cars to a signal that the new LiftMaster understands...but we decided to put the remote that comes with the new opener in our 2012 KIA.
My problem seems to be that the right side of the clicker emits a light, but rarely activates the door, while the left side works perfectly. My guess is that the clicker part inside isn't in contact with the case. Don't know what I can do about that.
If that’s the case you’d have to jerry rig it to work the way it should. Likely a plastic extension has broken off and you’d have to glue it or something
The led lights in my neighbours newly buildt 4000sqf house is stopping my garage door to work when they have their lights on.
Yep I’ve seen that before too
Have you found a solution Mr Flight
I’m a garage door tech and that’s true. I had a customer that installed 2 new led bulbs to the front of their garage and the opener frequency was not working any longer. As soon as I installed the regular bulbs it started working again.
Problem, not 'issue."
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