I remember erasing EPROMs with UV light in the mid 80s and programming them over a serial link. Maybe they were as large as 4KB. Things have changed a lot.
The CH341a doesn't supply 5v to the data lines. So no need to mod it. If you multimeter it with no draw, it will show 4.7v, but once connected to the chip it will drop to 3.4v. Which is well within spec. Plus current is more important when you talk about burning chips.
Always make sure to do at least 2 reads and compare using a program like HxD before you overwrite your chip. Neoprogrammer, and most other programmers, don't verify reads in any way so you can't rely on a single read. A bad connection that causes a bad read wont cause any errors and you will end up with an unusable backup.
25 points awarded for a stellar iron tip and condition. It's amazing how often you see folks (teaching) with irons that look like they have been keep in BBQ pits.. Feel free to take the weekend off. You deserve it.
…. The only way you can damage your bios chip is by not knowing what you’re doing this programmer doesn’t put out enough miliamps to burn a chip and under a multi meter while running its 3.4 volts current is needed to burn chips don’t listen to idiots
Higher amps damages the chip not voltage. These reading are mere micro-amps. The mod was useless but having a green spare programmer is a good recommendation.
All of these support involves repairs thus reuse of Gadgets, perhaps making long uses of all innovations, recycling does not helps Global warming concerns, right here people like you Sir helps saves this beautiful Earth, Beautiful lives..God Almighty Bless you all
Watched a review on the original programmer you showed that had the mod on it. The guy measuring the voltage going through and the current was so low it wasn't an issue.
Hello.. I would like to know more about your method please... I have a CH341A... Or if there is a page where they explain the steps to follow. Thank you
i did the silly SAM port clip on the air 820-3437 in 2017.. baked something and that was that.. i learned to take chip off on most boards excluding VGA cards as they usually work fine if not in PCIE slot. tip: 12:07 u can click detect on left side and should find it auto. and no it doesnt have pin detect, just same as prior ch341a no extra test circuit like RT809 orTL866II+ the black pcb tends to popcorn the layers very easy if u try to solder chip on it w very high temps.
I saw a vid from sorin electronics as well showing you that you cannot burn a chip with the old version as you said the amps or miliamps wont let you.. that said i still bout the newer version as i am a scardy cat lol
@@Pedro-ct8ou yeah you can't burn it out. Nobody has done it and the old model puts the correct voltage out on the read lines anyway. Now people have BRICKED their mobos but they do that with either reader and by pinning the programmer wrong, not making more than 1 read and not comparing reads and generally not knowing what they are doing, but yeah
If someone knows how to 3d print and make a template, they can make a nice cover for it. And make the template free :) For the old one are several templates also accessible.
If I had access to a 3D printer, I'd totally be into an enclosure for this that converted it into more of a "desktop" widget. The main reason I prefer my RT809f over the CH341a is because the RT809f is a box that connects with a cable, instead of needing a USB extension cable that's clamped to the desk. Plugging a CH341a directly into a tower PC is kinda clunky, although there's nothing wrong about it.
@@Adamant_IT Yes, the form factor and treatability are important when you use a tool on a daily basis. I have 5 programmers, ranging from cheap to quite expensive, but I still prefer to use the old EZP2010 simply because it is so compact, robustly built and handy.
Is the software better for the EZP these days? I dropped my EZP2019 basically as soon as I got anything else because I found it super hit and miss with chip support and reliability. But that also might be because it was my first programmer and I was still figuring out how to use them properly.
@@Adamant_IT If you're interested, a monoprice select v2 can be had on sale around $99 or an ender 3 can be found for as low as $130 but takes at least an hour to build and without any experience another hour to get it configured properly, so not for the faint of heart who can't handle some troubleshooting, but otherwise both are great beginner printers.
@@Adamant_IT I never had any problems with the software (with 2010, I don't have 2019). It programs much faster than the CH341 and doesn't make any mistakes. When it comes to onboard programming, the CH341 recognises many EEproms, which is not recognised by EZP onboard, but when reading and writing, the CH341 almost always makes mistakes. So if EZP says it can't do it, but the CH341 does, it does it with error. My first one was the AJAWe 0812, but it was extremely slow. Then the EZP2010, SVOD1 (for EC), out of curiosity CH341, SVOD3.
@@bn880 On the unit I got it seemed to work ok. I know it is very important to check the chip's datasheet to make sure you are using the correct voltage setting. Like any product there is a chance you got a DOA item, but it is always good to test with a known working chip. I also have a TL866II+ that I verified with the DIP SPI Flash chip that I used with the CH341A v1.7 I got. Both read the same contents.
Yeah using correct voltage, but no 2 reads are the same @@David_Ladd Still have not gotten the "official" soft for it, crazy baidu links. Using the open source versions.
I modded mine by cutting the 5v trace and put a solder bridge between the 5v and 3v pin on the back. no need for wires. also easily reversible if ever needed.
In-Circuit programming worked very well for me. I was able to flash a Winbond BIOS IC in a WSON8 8mm x 6mm package with this program (v1.7 to be exact) last weekend. I restored the BIOS of my GPD Win Max 2.
Nice info about the programmer, you told me in earlier video you will get more into the bios programming . And tada here it goes. I subbed. We can exchange knowledge about this.
Looks like it's worth buying just for the adapter PCBs, of which one looks like it should support the USON (0.5mm pitch) footprint which is used a lot with Macbooks, especially the USB-C models for the thunderbolt ROM storage for each pair of CD32xx chips. Was going to design/fab my own but this would seem to be a simpler option ( and pick up some other interesting ones too I see ).
also can you somehow when you have time comparing those two circuit so we can mod older one with voltage selector also infra that would be much apperciated and i hope for a free registersion of board view paul
It has a line level coversion chip hidden underneath the ZIF socket, significantly more advanced than the regular CH341A programmer. Sholud be much better for in circuit programming also. Its currently up to V1.7
I have one of these on its way. Good to know it works. Found out it exists from a comment on another video. I also have a solderless adaptor for those wson8 chips you find on macs.
I need help. I have tried over and over to reprogram the bios chip on a Surface Pro 4. It uses a winbond W25Q128FVPIQ. I tried attaching the ribbon to the chip on the board. I bought digital chips The Flash directly but they don't have that model ship anymore they don't make it they have a substitute it's the w25 q128 jvp IQ. I tried a Windows computer and I've tried Android I've tried as programmer and Neo along with others it's never automatically detecting the chip. And when it says it's writing it never works on the verification. I believe the issue at some point it has to do with the status registers. But I'm not sure I don't know what to do I need help please thank you
i programmed my 1.8v bios chip using the old ch341a without even the 3.3v mod or the 1.8v adapter,just plugged it in. Verifying the chip always leaded to some errors,anyway it just worked.
First thought was wish I'd waited just a bit and got this one, since I just got the other type. Going to be much easier to accidentally leave that switch in the wrong position though vs use the 1.8V adapter, so second thought is OK I'm fine with having the other version. Make sure you keep checking the voltage every time on the socket with a voltmeter as part of your procedure, good practice and it's going to be very easy to forget and leave the switch in the wrong position if you get used to just plugging in chips without checking. Needs feedback. LEDs, red = 5V, yellow=3.3V, green=2.5V, blue=1.8V or similar would be good. Then you could just check the LEDs every time before inserting the chip and drop the manual voltmeter check.
Don't be paranoid. Even using the black CH341A board you don't need to do a volt-mod or volt select thingy or separate board for 1.8V chips. Yes, at idle you will see 5V on the data lines, but when you connect the appropriate chip, the voltage will automatically decrease to the required level. The fact is that the current in the circuits of the data lines of this programmer is so small that the resistance of the chip you are programming is enough for the voltage to drop to the required level. You can check this very easily by connecting the chip and taking measurements, moreover, this is how a lot of professional programmers work. I have been using this programmer for many years and not a single chip has been damaged by this programmer.
The volt mod is unnecessary and a lot of people get that wrong and blindly spread that misinformation and apply the mod without actually testing the Voltage on the pins directly. Even at 5V when you connect a BIOS and it requires 3.3V you'll find it reads 3.2 ~3.4 on the BIOS pins. No mod necessary.
I looked for the new version and it cost x5 times more than the dangerous non-modded one, also the clip accessories are missing. I think I'm fine with my modded programmer since all the chips I reprogram are the classic Winbonds. All the money I have now is going to electronic projects, somehow inspired by the previous mod.
At my times XGecu TL866II was the one chosen by people (not that cheap though but more universal). Edit, I see that they have now even more expensive XGecu T56.
Reasoning is easy enough, it's a quarter or 50 cent part that lets you check remotes and maybe even back up the remote codes etc on a piece of test gear you're already going to have around, instead of having to have or find something else to do it. Near free extra function. The real question is what pin is it on, and if the rest of the programmer is basically the the same the software should work and we can add it on the other versions. You can check if a remote works at all easily, just point it at a cam most pick up infrared. But if this will read the codes and store custom codes it'll be handy vs having something else around to do it. Don't need it often, but it's not a bad cheap add on since it's already a USB attached test device..
Actually there's more. Looking around the site for the main files later, this came up : CH340IR.ZIP CH340 USB to IrDA infrared WINDOWS driver, support 2000, XP, for USB infrared adapter based on CH340, USB to infrared interface. And a CH340IR.E**, changed of course.. USB to IrDA infrared WINDOWS driver for CH340, used for USB to infrared IrDA interface, USB infrared adapter, used to distribute to end users with the product. Whenever I run back into my IRDA parts I'll tack one on and try and get it running. Low priority so may be a while but I should run into them eventually.
I have several earlier models but I want this one - I still want to wait until you get affiliate link figured out :) I did have a look at your link - it says v1.7 rather than 1.6... newer perhaps?
Great vid! I know I'm going to need to get one of these because I'm pretty certain I'll need to use one at some point. Also some kits come with a clip adapter on a ribbon cable used for SMD chips, I don't know if that's better than de-soldering and re-soldering, but it seems a little more convenient for my needs.
I still hear wildly conflicting opinions about in-circuit flashing. I think there are plenty of times when it works / is safe, but also I think you need more knowledge about the device your fixing, specifically _what else is on the SPI bus_ that you will be sending power and signals to when you clip onto the BIOS chip. But yea, I'll be researching it at some point, as there are a few cases where it makes life significantly easier, and potentially more accessible for people who aren't ready to get into soldering.
I got a XTW100 programmer from Ali Express a few weeks ago. STM32 based. Supposedly the cats meow for bios programming... Have not tried yet did find the program to run it though, mostly in English :)
Interesting revision but despite being affordable they still need to work on the price, it may have gone up a bit but either way, you can get the original for as little as $4-5, so even including everything such as a 1.8v converter, SOP to DIP socket and a clip, costs only about $10 shipped.
That's a fair point. I feel like price is irrelevant once you're below $15, but certainly for people in poorer countries where absolute rock-bottom prices on tools make a big difference, the v1.6 is essentially twice the price.
@@Adamant_IT Well, I was thinking more so for beginners/hobbyist/someone starting out, for example I don't regularly fix computers, but I still wouldn't mind having one of these myself, however currently after shipping the new model costs $17 or more, actually triple what the old one costs, so yeah considering how little I would be using it, I'd rather spend the $5 and do the mod.
What happens if I leave the clamp on the bios chip after programming and switch on the machine? (not connected to the programmer but just clamped on because it is really hard to get the clamp in place properly) in case I have to reprogram again?
The board can work as a programmer or a monitor. I suppose you can read infrared comunications, like remotes, so you can then clone commands on your projects.
I found the problem with 35xx series SPI NAND flash. Can I flashing 35xx series as well with this programmer? I worked with RT809H programmer with 35xx series and it showed many bytes are inconsistence. Any suggestion for my problem?
ali express has tons of them. However you don't need the updated chip. The 5 volts was never an issue and if you are connecting the pins correctly on the original chip you will get a 3.3v out. Flashing a 3.3v bios chip with 5v isn't going to damage or burn your chip out anyway, it just might make reads/writes a tad more unstable. Can you even find evidence of people burning their chips out with the original? lol. no. You can't. plenty of people brick their mobos but it doesn't matter which chip they are using, they skip steps and pin it wrong. The original chip is completely safe/fine and if you're ultra paranoid you can solder 2 little connections on it to make it only run 3.3v. For me, it worked
@@escapetherace1943 You say that, but I went ahead and just bought the v1.5 kit with a 1.7 adapter. One of the chips I needed to flash was a 1.8v chip anyway, so having the extra voltage selector was best.
@@Levy_Wilson right, well it is probably better in your case you did so. I flashed many 3.3v chips including one yesterday with the regular ch341a and.... all of them were fine.
When you get all of your affiliate links set-up, could you link to all of your equipment: soldering iron/station, hot air gun, various programmers, etcetera? Even though I'm in the USA, I've assembled my workbench to include sockets and voltages to allow me to use equipment from anywhere in the world. I am using a generator to provide ~240vac single phase since the USA standard is dual phase (two out of phase 120vac). Thanks - I love your videos!
Been into tech since I was a kid, building PCs, etc. But very new to soldering, dealing with the more intricate side of electronics like this. Is a BIOS reprogrammer like this good for any kind of flash chip, with the right adapter, or is it meant primarily for the type of chips used for desktop and laptop BIOS? I'm thinking specifically of consoles, especially given the recent reports of Wii U failures due to a NAND chip going bad.
Hey great video. I have changed the Bios chip andrewrite a new Bios using the programmer. Now the PC it's starting but unfortunately I have no video output. Is there something that I missed? I was trying 2 or 3 different Bios also the one from Lenovo. Is there anything else that can be done?
It's works good till 64MB chips , above that you will always get corrupted dump .. just read a 128MB chip and compare reading to another decent Programmer
ive done 128 chips (sometimes the pin 8 lift trick helps) .. some are problems but newer version of neoprogrammer i believe fixed it partially.. i use flashrom 1.21 w CH341a on those. .or EZP2019 or RT809
@@LeadFarmer813 I think it's Hardware limitation to ch341 ic you can see other programmers like old mini pro have same issues with 128 chips ...but not all 128
link to aliexpress not working. :) i bought a ch341a a while ago, and today i started playing with it more extensively (that's why, i just watched few of your videos, thank's by the way! great content!) back to my programmer. the chip on it is a ch341B :D can't find anything on the internet, except a datasheet. and i can say, the neo is not working with it. so apparently, i got scammed. around 7€ or so :D , but i also need a working one, so can you recomend one?
So I got this device and flashed my broken bios... Great video btw you helped me alot. The problem now is my Microsoft Office isn't activating, and some people online say its connected to the bios? I never thought it was possible but I guess it is ? I would love to hear your experience with this subject if you have any. The office version was the 2016 Pro Plus one, and its a OEM
cpu temp shows 100c while its only 30 after turning 0n and believe it i test it in -10 degree room right after start but some minuts of working and it sudenly shows 30 agian or after restart help pls some times crash pc or bring blue screen
also can you somehow when you have time comparing those two circuit so we can mod older one with voltage selector also infra that would be much apperciated
I don't think you can really add a volt select to the older one. I missed it in the video, but the voltage conversion is done by a dedicated chip under the socket - which is why the socket is mounted wonky. The PCB needed to be completely redesigned for this. However, if you've done the 3v mod to the original CH341a, and you own a 1.8v converter, you basically don't need this updated version. Although it does 5v and 2.5v as well, I've never seen chips of those ratings.
Hey Adam. a little off-topic question, I saw you have a Hanmer HM310P power supply, so I got one as well, but every time I turn it on after it was off for a while, I hear a loud bang and particular smell comes out of it. It seems to be working for now, but did you have the same problem? If so have you fixed it?
Clips are fiddly and intermittent. If you get one that works well, they can be great, but getting a good one seems to be somewhat luck of the draw, and even then it won't help you for WSON chips. Then there's the other issues of flashing in-circuit, where the programmer will be powering up and communicating on the whole EFI SPI bus, which includes lines going to delicate places like the PCH. If you know the platform well, this is fine, but I've seen weird stuff happen. IMHO, desoldering the chip is safer and more controlled, and if you're doing this level of repair work, it's really not a big deal to just take the chip off the board.
@@Adamant_ITGood point on the surface mount chips! Every single clip I've seen (and all the ones that come with the CH341a) are junk. The one that seems to be regularly recommended is the Pomona 5250, which costs as much as the whole CH341 ($18-20 USD). You can buy a cable that plugs into the SPI diagnostic / programming port, instead of interfacing with the chip directly, but the cheapest you can get a set (there are 3 different connectors over the Mac model years -- MOLEX 30pin, HIROSE 30pin, HIROSE 12pin) is ~$50-70 USD. Nice to use though on the Macbook Air -- you don't have to remove the motherboard anymore to flash the chip since the port is on the top of the board.
Hmm interesting. I think it would be nicer if it came with a SOP8 socket that you can plug the chip in and directly into the programmer... Theres also the clip but that can be wonky at times when sometimes the circuitry on the motherboard just doesnt play ball. Also on some Dell and hp laptops, if the bios chip is missing, the power rails might start for only a few seconds after plugging in charger and then shut off, and won't even try to POST without the bios chip.
The way I see it, if your going to build a programmer on a PCB, why not do it with some style.. Form and Function, otherwise you will end up building a time machine out of an Isetta.. I like the black PCB...
Same. It feels dumb to complain that this one doesn't look pretty - but you can't deny that the original model was really well presented for such a cheap product.
Having now used this. I do wish you could alter the speed it runs at. The faster and SPI programmer goes the shorter the data cable you need. I had to shorten the tail on my flash clip by more than half in order to start getting reliable reads and writes. That said it's small convenient does the job, doesn't care if you stick it on the end of a long USB extension cable, as a built-in voltage switch, and a diagram to remind you which way things are supposed to be put into the ZIF socket. I really like it. Thank you for telling me this device exists.
I have to clear cmos on every boot computer works fine after cmos clear but if I dont clear it it does not boot I have good power its a older motherboard 2011 asus the button cell batter was dead replaced it flashed new bios but nothing change do you think its a bad chip I have unpluged drives changed out everything was working fine just all of a sudden have to clear cmos every boot thanks for any help I love your channel
Thanks for the educative videos. Please I need your assistance. I am trying to program my dell precision 3530 bios with Ch314a and neopprogrammer. My bios chip is labeled W25Q80DVSIG but the list of detected ic in neopprogrammer are: 1. W25Q80BL 2. W25Q80BV 3. W25Q80JV Could you please help me identify the right one from the list
I remember erasing EPROMs with UV light in the mid 80s and programming them over a serial link. Maybe they were as large as 4KB. Things have changed a lot.
that sounds super jank lmao i'm glad things have changed xD
I would use one of those for my old 90ies mainboard aswell. So I wonder if there is an adapter for the CH341a?
@@noodle_Cx me too, modding arcade game boards. I think I still have my UV eraser.
Golden era. Electronics was not for everyone and not as much information as now. Beautiful times.
@@LayZeeDawg I had one built from a mercury light bulb for street lighting.👍
The CH341a doesn't supply 5v to the data lines. So no need to mod it.
If you multimeter it with no draw, it will show 4.7v, but once connected to the chip it will drop to 3.4v. Which is well within spec.
Plus current is more important when you talk about burning chips.
ikr, this guy has no fcking idea
Do you know what the jumper pins are for? The yellow rows with one jumper located
Is there a source to back up what you're saying?
YOU ARE RIGHT!
@@kingeling you can measure it yourself
Always make sure to do at least 2 reads and compare using a program like HxD before you overwrite your chip. Neoprogrammer, and most other programmers, don't verify reads in any way so you can't rely on a single read. A bad connection that causes a bad read wont cause any errors and you will end up with an unusable backup.
THIS! Extra reads are free, don't be tempted to short-cut good procedure and skip this step -- you may find yourself sorely regretting it!
25 points awarded for a stellar iron tip and condition. It's amazing how often you see folks (teaching) with irons that look like they have been keep in BBQ pits.. Feel free to take the weekend off. You deserve it.
your past volt mod & reprogamming videos on this tool saved me from having to buy a new motherboard, thanks =)
Me too, i was able to bring back my DZ87KLT-75K from the almost-dead realm of motherboards 😀
…. The only way you can damage your bios chip is by not knowing what you’re doing this programmer doesn’t put out enough miliamps to burn a chip and under a multi meter while running its 3.4 volts current is needed to burn chips don’t listen to idiots
Higher amps damages the chip not voltage. These reading are mere micro-amps. The mod was useless but having a green spare programmer is a good recommendation.
All of these support involves repairs thus reuse of Gadgets, perhaps making long uses of all innovations, recycling does not helps Global warming concerns, right here people like you Sir helps saves this beautiful Earth, Beautiful lives..God Almighty Bless you all
I really like the way you handle things, knowing what you DO know and knowing your limitations.
Watched a review on the original programmer you showed that had the mod on it. The guy measuring the voltage going through and the current was so low it wasn't an issue.
whoa, nice, no need voltage mod again. I used potentiometer in the past to get desire voltage for ch341a.
Hello.. I would like to know more about your method please...
I have a CH341A...
Or if there is a page where they explain the steps to follow.
Thank you
i did the silly SAM port clip on the air 820-3437 in 2017.. baked something and that was that.. i learned to take chip off on most boards excluding VGA cards as they usually work fine if not in PCIE slot.
tip: 12:07 u can click detect on left side and should find it auto.
and no it doesnt have pin detect, just same as prior ch341a no extra test circuit like RT809 orTL866II+
the black pcb tends to popcorn the layers very easy if u try to solder chip on it w very high temps.
I challenge you to find a 3.3V chip that you can burn with the older programmer. milliamp limits won't let it overload them.
I use my ch341a, the old one with the black pcb without mods on 1.8v chips but i use a 1.8v adapter.
@@garbonzobear yea
But it doesn’t work
I saw a vid from sorin electronics as well showing you that you cannot burn a chip with the old version as you said the amps or miliamps wont let you.. that said i still bout the newer version as i am a scardy cat lol
@@Pedro-ct8ou yeah you can't burn it out. Nobody has done it and the old model puts the correct voltage out on the read lines anyway. Now people have BRICKED their mobos but they do that with either reader and by pinning the programmer wrong, not making more than 1 read and not comparing reads and generally not knowing what they are doing, but yeah
If someone knows how to 3d print and make a template, they can make a nice cover for it. And make the template free :) For the old one are several templates also accessible.
If I had access to a 3D printer, I'd totally be into an enclosure for this that converted it into more of a "desktop" widget. The main reason I prefer my RT809f over the CH341a is because the RT809f is a box that connects with a cable, instead of needing a USB extension cable that's clamped to the desk. Plugging a CH341a directly into a tower PC is kinda clunky, although there's nothing wrong about it.
@@Adamant_IT Yes, the form factor and treatability are important when you use a tool on a daily basis. I have 5 programmers, ranging from cheap to quite expensive, but I still prefer to use the old EZP2010 simply because it is so compact, robustly built and handy.
Is the software better for the EZP these days? I dropped my EZP2019 basically as soon as I got anything else because I found it super hit and miss with chip support and reliability. But that also might be because it was my first programmer and I was still figuring out how to use them properly.
@@Adamant_IT If you're interested, a monoprice select v2 can be had on sale around $99 or an ender 3 can be found for as low as $130 but takes at least an hour to build and without any experience another hour to get it configured properly, so not for the faint of heart who can't handle some troubleshooting, but otherwise both are great beginner printers.
@@Adamant_IT I never had any problems with the software (with 2010, I don't have 2019). It programs much faster than the CH341 and doesn't make any mistakes. When it comes to onboard programming, the CH341 recognises many EEproms, which is not recognised by EZP onboard, but when reading and writing, the CH341 almost always makes mistakes. So if EZP says it can't do it, but the CH341 does, it does it with error.
My first one was the AJAWe 0812, but it was extremely slow. Then the EZP2010, SVOD1 (for EC), out of curiosity CH341, SVOD3.
Great video.
Thank you for sharing!
I have two CH341A v1.7 programmers on order and can't wait to put them in my service tool bags. :)
Did they work? mine read junk
@@bn880
On the unit I got it seemed to work ok.
I know it is very important to check the chip's datasheet to make sure you are using the correct voltage setting.
Like any product there is a chance you got a DOA item, but it is always good to test with a known working chip.
I also have a TL866II+ that I verified with the DIP SPI Flash chip that I used with the CH341A v1.7 I got. Both read the same contents.
Yeah using correct voltage, but no 2 reads are the same @@David_Ladd Still have not gotten the "official" soft for it, crazy baidu links. Using the open source versions.
@@David_Ladd Actually if you know of an open link to DL the software for it that would be appreciated. (not the baidu spyware stuff)
I modded mine by cutting the 5v trace and put a solder bridge between the 5v and 3v pin on the back. no need for wires. also easily reversible if ever needed.
In-Circuit programming worked very well for me. I was able to flash a Winbond BIOS IC in a WSON8 8mm x 6mm package with this program (v1.7 to be exact) last weekend. I restored the BIOS of my GPD Win Max 2.
I'm pretty sure the included DIP socket is so you can solder the pins in straight.
voltage mod is not needed, 5v to the data lines are okay because it don't put more than 1mah in these lines, electronics repair school explained this
Nice info about the programmer, you told me in earlier video you will get more into the bios programming . And tada here it goes. I subbed. We can exchange knowledge about this.
Looks like it's worth buying just for the adapter PCBs, of which one looks like it should support the USON (0.5mm pitch) footprint which is used a lot with Macbooks, especially the USB-C models for the thunderbolt ROM storage for each pair of CD32xx chips. Was going to design/fab my own but this would seem to be a simpler option ( and pick up some other interesting ones too I see ).
Better buy one then 🤣
@@MrPnew1 lurker. Guess I should make it two then ?
also can you somehow when you have time comparing those two circuit so we can mod older one with voltage selector also infra that would be much apperciated and i hope for a free registersion of board view paul
Thank you for putting this info out there, I purchased the upgrade after seeing this video. Cheap enough to replace.👍
love your channel man. good work you taught me a whole lot. wish I knew half of this info years ago... good stuff mate.
Whats up with the IR sensor on the programmer?
Hi. The ir sensor have the funcion of read infrared codes from remotes.
@@ralex7213 Amazing!
Can i mod the old ch341a with infrared sensor?
The NeoProgrammer does not open Asus CAP files but there is a "CAP to BIN" program which can do that middle step...
It has a line level coversion chip hidden underneath the ZIF socket, significantly more advanced than the regular CH341A programmer. Sholud be much better for in circuit programming also. Its currently up to V1.7
Any place to get this 1.7V? Also V1.6 seems to be gone from ALi.
@@heimdall_gatekeeper Sellers use older pics on listings, i bought mine from a seller with plenty of feedback & it was V1.7
@@heimdall_gatekeeper It's still on there but hard to find search for "ch341a 1.8v"
@@neiliewheeliebin Yes, found one and it is ordered.
I have one of these on its way. Good to know it works. Found out it exists from a comment on another video. I also have a solderless adaptor for those wson8 chips you find on macs.
I need help. I have tried over and over to reprogram the bios chip on a Surface Pro 4. It uses a winbond W25Q128FVPIQ. I tried attaching the ribbon to the chip on the board. I bought digital chips The Flash directly but they don't have that model ship anymore they don't make it they have a substitute it's the w25 q128 jvp IQ. I tried a Windows computer and I've tried Android I've tried as programmer and Neo along with others it's never automatically detecting the chip. And when it says it's writing it never works on the verification. I believe the issue at some point it has to do with the status registers. But I'm not sure I don't know what to do I need help please thank you
Thank you Graham i didn't know that a new version excist i see it support also kb chip such ad kb 9012 etc... I will buy one.
I'm not bothered by the form as I'm more of a function person. I may have missed it, but what is the IR blaster for?
I wondered the same
i programmed my 1.8v bios chip using the old ch341a without even the 3.3v mod or the 1.8v adapter,just plugged it in. Verifying the chip always leaded to some errors,anyway it just worked.
First thought was wish I'd waited just a bit and got this one, since I just got the other type. Going to be much easier to accidentally leave that switch in the wrong position though vs use the 1.8V adapter, so second thought is OK I'm fine with having the other version.
Make sure you keep checking the voltage every time on the socket with a voltmeter as part of your procedure, good practice and it's going to be very easy to forget and leave the switch in the wrong position if you get used to just plugging in chips without checking.
Needs feedback. LEDs, red = 5V, yellow=3.3V, green=2.5V, blue=1.8V or similar would be good. Then you could just check the LEDs every time before inserting the chip and drop the manual voltmeter check.
Don't be paranoid. Even using the black CH341A board you don't need to do a volt-mod or volt select thingy or separate board for 1.8V chips. Yes, at idle you will see 5V on the data lines, but when you connect the appropriate chip, the voltage will automatically decrease to the required level. The fact is that the current in the circuits of the data lines of this programmer is so small that the resistance of the chip you are programming is enough for the voltage to drop to the required level. You can check this very easily by connecting the chip and taking measurements, moreover, this is how a lot of professional programmers work.
I have been using this programmer for many years and not a single chip has been damaged by this programmer.
@@Evhen_Velikiy sorin also said this to the panic of 5v on data and power lines, checking upon it, it drops below the need voltage.
Thanku again graham,for a most superb video.
The volt mod is unnecessary and a lot of people get that wrong and blindly spread that misinformation and apply the mod without actually testing the Voltage on the pins directly. Even at 5V when you connect a BIOS and it requires 3.3V you'll find it reads 3.2 ~3.4 on the BIOS pins. No mod necessary.
Voltage of 5v don't cook chip its higher current that does damages!
I looked for the new version and it cost x5 times more than the dangerous non-modded one, also the clip accessories are missing. I think I'm fine with my modded programmer since all the chips I reprogram are the classic Winbonds. All the money I have now is going to electronic projects, somehow inspired by the previous mod.
personally I prefer linux for bio's programming, working via the bash terminal is better and easier than using a gui.
How do you use Linux or where would I find how to?
Can version 1.6 also be used with SOP8 SOIC8 Test-Clip?
At my times XGecu TL866II was the one chosen by people (not that cheap though but more universal). Edit, I see that they have now even more expensive XGecu T56.
Hello, there is an excellent version of CH341a v1.7, it can do a lot
Question: Did you figure out why they added a IR remote control receiver in the new version?
Apparently it's for decoding TV remotes and such like, which makes sense, as I can't think of anything else still using IR for communications.
Reasoning is easy enough, it's a quarter or 50 cent part that lets you check remotes and maybe even back up the remote codes etc on a piece of test gear you're already going to have around, instead of having to have or find something else to do it. Near free extra function.
The real question is what pin is it on, and if the rest of the programmer is basically the the same the software should work and we can add it on the other versions.
You can check if a remote works at all easily, just point it at a cam most pick up infrared. But if this will read the codes and store custom codes it'll be handy vs having something else around to do it.
Don't need it often, but it's not a bad cheap add on since it's already a USB attached test device..
Actually there's more. Looking around the site for the main files later, this came up :
CH340IR.ZIP CH340 USB to IrDA infrared WINDOWS driver, support 2000, XP, for USB infrared adapter based on CH340, USB to infrared interface.
And a CH340IR.E**, changed of course..
USB to IrDA infrared WINDOWS driver for CH340, used for USB to infrared IrDA interface, USB infrared adapter, used to distribute to end users with the product.
Whenever I run back into my IRDA parts I'll tack one on and try and get it running. Low priority so may be a while but I should run into them eventually.
you should have made 2 readings and check both files! before modifying the file.
super nice info video 😀this reminds me of the James-co PC cool stuff days 286, 386, etc. 🥳🥞☕
Got the one with 3.3v option yesterday. Plugged in corrupt Z170I bios, badabingbadaboom BOOT-screen!
I am contemplating purchasing this 3.3v programmer to bios mod my 2021 Razer Blade Advanced.
I'm just doing mine, and the number of apps is confusing. Hopefully the upcoming vids will sort it out.
Excellent. Than you Adam.
I have several earlier models but I want this one - I still want to wait until you get affiliate link figured out :) I did have a look at your link - it says v1.7 rather than 1.6... newer perhaps?
thanks man waiting for the decyruptting
Great vid!
I know I'm going to need to get one of these because I'm pretty certain I'll need to use one at some point.
Also some kits come with a clip adapter on a ribbon cable used for SMD chips, I don't know if that's better than de-soldering and re-soldering, but it seems a little more convenient for my needs.
I still hear wildly conflicting opinions about in-circuit flashing. I think there are plenty of times when it works / is safe, but also I think you need more knowledge about the device your fixing, specifically _what else is on the SPI bus_ that you will be sending power and signals to when you clip onto the BIOS chip. But yea, I'll be researching it at some point, as there are a few cases where it makes life significantly easier, and potentially more accessible for people who aren't ready to get into soldering.
15:41 "Stay subscribed..." HA!! Like i'm going anywhere...
I got a XTW100 programmer from Ali Express a few weeks ago. STM32 based. Supposedly the cats meow for bios programming... Have not tried yet did find the program to run it though, mostly in English :)
Interesting revision but despite being affordable they still need to work on the price, it may have gone up a bit but either way, you can get the original for as little as $4-5, so even including everything such as a 1.8v converter, SOP to DIP socket and a clip, costs only about $10 shipped.
That's a fair point. I feel like price is irrelevant once you're below $15, but certainly for people in poorer countries where absolute rock-bottom prices on tools make a big difference, the v1.6 is essentially twice the price.
@@Adamant_IT Well, I was thinking more so for beginners/hobbyist/someone starting out, for example I don't regularly fix computers, but I still wouldn't mind having one of these myself, however currently after shipping the new model costs $17 or more, actually triple what the old one costs, so yeah considering how little I would be using it, I'd rather spend the $5 and do the mod.
What happens if I leave the clamp on the bios chip after programming and switch on the machine? (not connected to the programmer but just clamped on because it is really hard to get the clamp in place properly) in case I have to reprogram again?
Thanks for the video 👍 other than this programmer what do you reccomend as second one? May you provide a link ?
This is very helpful.
Thank alot
Thanks sir, this helped me a lot!
I DEFINITELY want to address the elephant in the room: what's the IR remote sensor next to the socket for ??? :O :)))
The board can work as a programmer or a monitor. I suppose you can read infrared comunications, like remotes, so you can then clone commands on your projects.
I have black ch341a and i want to program plcc33 chips...is this possible with an adapter?
you can also use “ch341a special edition” software
I found the problem with 35xx series SPI NAND flash. Can I flashing 35xx series as well with this programmer? I worked with RT809H programmer with 35xx series and it showed many bytes are inconsistence. Any suggestion for my problem?
The link directs to v1.7 now, it looks the same as v1.6 so I can't say what the differnce is.
I can't find this updated version in a kit with the clip for soldered chips.
ali express has tons of them. However you don't need the updated chip. The 5 volts was never an issue and if you are connecting the pins correctly on the original chip you will get a 3.3v out. Flashing a 3.3v bios chip with 5v isn't going to damage or burn your chip out anyway, it just might make reads/writes a tad more unstable. Can you even find evidence of people burning their chips out with the original? lol. no. You can't. plenty of people brick their mobos but it doesn't matter which chip they are using, they skip steps and pin it wrong. The original chip is completely safe/fine and if you're ultra paranoid you can solder 2 little connections on it to make it only run 3.3v. For me, it worked
@@escapetherace1943 You say that, but I went ahead and just bought the v1.5 kit with a 1.7 adapter. One of the chips I needed to flash was a 1.8v chip anyway, so having the extra voltage selector was best.
@@Levy_Wilson right, well it is probably better in your case you did so. I flashed many 3.3v chips including one yesterday with the regular ch341a and.... all of them were fine.
Cant find the 1.6 or 1.7 versions for sale on AliExpress
I can't find this version on ebay with the cable, only the old version.
hello there ...
really enjoy your content ... is there anyone in nyc you'd recommend?
Nice, thanks for sharing :)
Couldn't this with TOIC or SOiC clio (sorry memory struggling) do a iMac EFI unlock?
When you get all of your affiliate links set-up, could you link to all of your equipment: soldering iron/station, hot air gun, various programmers, etcetera? Even though I'm in the USA, I've assembled my workbench to include sockets and voltages to allow me to use equipment from anywhere in the world. I am using a generator to provide ~240vac single phase since the USA standard is dual phase (two out of phase 120vac). Thanks - I love your videos!
is it coming with clip, which we don't need to remove bios from motherboread? thnx
Hi There is no issue with the CH341A its drops to 3v as soon its connected to a chip
Been into tech since I was a kid, building PCs, etc. But very new to soldering, dealing with the more intricate side of electronics like this.
Is a BIOS reprogrammer like this good for any kind of flash chip, with the right adapter, or is it meant primarily for the type of chips used for desktop and laptop BIOS?
I'm thinking specifically of consoles, especially given the recent reports of Wii U failures due to a NAND chip going bad.
how write two dump file . G50-70_dump and G50-70_dump_ec . in folder i download this two file exist . how can write . what is the ec file ?
hi friend i have a little problem after flashing the bios with the original file the display is not working
Hello, can I use this ch341a 3.3V programmer with the old programmer clamp for Unbrick/hardflash bios my GPU?
No infra red remote what does the Infrared receiver do???
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Hey great video. I have changed the Bios chip andrewrite a new Bios using the programmer. Now the PC it's starting but unfortunately I have no video output. Is there something that I missed? I was trying 2 or 3 different Bios also the one from Lenovo. Is there anything else that can be done?
where do get bios firmwares for different chips ?
How can I know if the base Version can damage my bios chip?
It's works good till 64MB chips , above that you will always get corrupted dump .. just read a 128MB chip and compare reading to another decent Programmer
ive done 128 chips (sometimes the pin 8 lift trick helps) .. some are problems but newer version of neoprogrammer i believe fixed it partially.. i use flashrom 1.21 w CH341a on those. .or EZP2019 or RT809
@@LeadFarmer813 I think it's Hardware limitation to ch341 ic you can see other programmers like old mini pro have same issues with 128 chips ...but not all 128
hello, does anyone have the dump (original bin file) bios for asus zephyrus M16 Gu603HR
Some say the voltage here is irrelevant, as it won't produce enough amps to harm anything.
can you use this programmer to read the 93cxx series eeproms?
link to aliexpress not working. :) i bought a ch341a a while ago, and today i started playing with it more extensively (that's why, i just watched few of your videos, thank's by the way! great content!) back to my programmer. the chip on it is a ch341B :D can't find anything on the internet, except a datasheet. and i can say, the neo is not working with it. so apparently, i got scammed. around 7€ or so :D , but i also need a working one, so can you recomend one?
lol maybe I should've googled more before buying the old version of this. Tho it's still good with the 3v mod right? So I'll be fine, yeah.
Where to get drivers & software?
So I got this device and flashed my broken bios... Great video btw you helped me alot. The problem now is my Microsoft Office isn't activating, and some people online say its connected to the bios? I never thought it was possible but I guess it is ? I would love to hear your experience with this subject if you have any. The office version was the 2016 Pro Plus one, and its a OEM
The bios you flashed might have not had motherboard serial, UUID, MAC
Just a quick note. Is that metal can with a cris crossed windows between the usb socket and zif socket an IR receiver?
Yup, I wasn't sure why you'd want one, but a few other comments imply that it's for decoding TV remotes.
@@Adamant_IT Haha, my first idea was "nice, they even added a UV source for wiping eproms!" :D
cpu temp shows 100c while its only 30 after turning 0n and believe it i test it in -10 degree room right after start but some minuts of working and it sudenly shows 30 agian or after restart help pls some times crash pc or bring blue screen
ur first link is broken. Thank you for the vid and the info. learned a lot.
nicenice
also can you somehow when you have time comparing those two circuit so we can mod older one with voltage selector also infra that would be much apperciated
I don't think you can really add a volt select to the older one. I missed it in the video, but the voltage conversion is done by a dedicated chip under the socket - which is why the socket is mounted wonky. The PCB needed to be completely redesigned for this.
However, if you've done the 3v mod to the original CH341a, and you own a 1.8v converter, you basically don't need this updated version. Although it does 5v and 2.5v as well, I've never seen chips of those ratings.
Hey Adam. a little off-topic question, I saw you have a Hanmer HM310P power supply, so I got one as well, but every time I turn it on after it was off for a while, I hear a loud bang and particular smell comes out of it. It seems to be working for now, but did you have the same problem? If so have you fixed it?
I have not encountered that... if your PSU is making pops and smells though, I would stop using it and open it up to investigate, or return it.
@@Adamant_IT Thx, will check it out
What size are the pin headers for this programmer.
Any particular reason why you desolder the chip instead of reading it using a test clip?
Clips are fiddly and intermittent. If you get one that works well, they can be great, but getting a good one seems to be somewhat luck of the draw, and even then it won't help you for WSON chips.
Then there's the other issues of flashing in-circuit, where the programmer will be powering up and communicating on the whole EFI SPI bus, which includes lines going to delicate places like the PCH. If you know the platform well, this is fine, but I've seen weird stuff happen. IMHO, desoldering the chip is safer and more controlled, and if you're doing this level of repair work, it's really not a big deal to just take the chip off the board.
@@Adamant_ITGood point on the surface mount chips! Every single clip I've seen (and all the ones that come with the CH341a) are junk. The one that seems to be regularly recommended is the Pomona 5250, which costs as much as the whole CH341 ($18-20 USD). You can buy a cable that plugs into the SPI diagnostic / programming port, instead of interfacing with the chip directly, but the cheapest you can get a set (there are 3 different connectors over the Mac model years -- MOLEX 30pin, HIROSE 30pin, HIROSE 12pin) is ~$50-70 USD. Nice to use though on the Macbook Air -- you don't have to remove the motherboard anymore to flash the chip since the port is on the top of the board.
Hmm interesting. I think it would be nicer if it came with a SOP8 socket that you can plug the chip in and directly into the programmer... Theres also the clip but that can be wonky at times when sometimes the circuitry on the motherboard just doesnt play ball.
Also on some Dell and hp laptops, if the bios chip is missing, the power rails might start for only a few seconds after plugging in charger and then shut off, and won't even try to POST without the bios chip.
Question: please what is the name of this programmer..have tried checking it out on ali express forum..can't find it
I want to know flash bios 1.8 with this series master...try it...i'll wait information...
The way I see it, if your going to build a programmer on a PCB, why not do it with some style.. Form and Function, otherwise you will end up building a time machine out of an Isetta.. I like the black PCB...
Same. It feels dumb to complain that this one doesn't look pretty - but you can't deny that the original model was really well presented for such a cheap product.
download zip collateral - changed my default picture viewer, a bit of panic; didn't delete too much in it (panic).
Having now used this. I do wish you could alter the speed it runs at. The faster and SPI programmer goes the shorter the data cable you need. I had to shorten the tail on my flash clip by more than half in order to start getting reliable reads and writes.
That said it's small convenient does the job, doesn't care if you stick it on the end of a long USB extension cable, as a built-in voltage switch, and a diagram to remind you which way things are supposed to be put into the ZIF socket. I really like it.
Thank you for telling me this device exists.
Still happy with it, any recommendations? I seen this new one, it looks pretty good but no software yet, "CH347 Development Board".
Hi there , it was perfect . thnx
I have to clear cmos on every boot computer works fine after cmos clear but if I dont clear it it does not boot I have good power its a older motherboard 2011 asus the button cell batter was dead replaced it flashed new bios but nothing change do you think its a bad chip I have unpluged drives changed out everything was working fine just all of a sudden have to clear cmos every boot thanks for any help I love your channel
Thanks for the educative videos.
Please I need your assistance. I am trying to program my dell precision 3530 bios with Ch314a and neopprogrammer.
My bios chip is labeled W25Q80DVSIG but the list of detected ic in neopprogrammer are:
1. W25Q80BL
2. W25Q80BV
3. W25Q80JV
Could you please help me identify the right one from the list