Hi delfin! im having trouble reading this same chip on a razer blade, i havent done this mod yet. Tried to read the chip before with all the programmers soft u can imagine. The ones that could read always read FF, could you tell me which version did u use and if i shoulddo this mod to be able to read it (Always with SOIC CLIP, battery and power adapter plugged in). Thank u a lot! All week spent on this.
Hi. I just wanted to comment on this video. I also followed and used a USB power bank. This did output around 4.7 V to most pins, including most of the ZIF socket But when I checked VCC pin it was 3.3 V. So, I then plugged the CH341A into computer. I checked voltage at socket #8 which is VCC to the chips. The output is 3.3 V, correct. All other sockets are at 0 V, nothing at 5 V. I am using it without modification. Test the VCC socket for V when connected to PC with proper driver. You may not need to do any modification.
Just checked mine the data pins are all 5v even though VCC is only 3.3v, I'll have to do the mod for sure. does your device look the same as the one in this video? It would be nice to find one that's actually designed properly.
Great video! One word of advice to anyone trying this fix: Be VERY careful when lifting up the pin that is later bridged using the additional wire. When I tried to solder the wire onto the pin I lifted before, it broke off. It is likely that I damaged it already when lifting it up, but as a result it was impossible to solder any wire onto the chip and the whole thing is now toast. Thankfully, these things are cheap, so I'll just order another one, but better to avoid this happening in the first place.
I cannot thank you enough for this! I was worried about this defect from reading reviews online about these units. Glad to see it is an easy fix to be able to enjoy an extremely useful and valuable tool. THANKS AGAIN! :)
OMG been looking for this video for EVER! thank you soooo much! i knew this was what I wanted to do but finding a concise and simple explanation of how to do it eluded me , you da MAN!
So this means it is a design flaw and need to be fixed in order not to burn ICs? Did I understand right? Thanks a lot for your video and clear images. Much appreciated.
Great tutorial, buddy! I've got the same ch341a programmer, I know where to start from, but just wanted to confirm, other hackers have used it successfully. Thanks!
Thank you very much! my CH341B worked badly for writing a Winbond 25Q64FV now its works really well !!! my problem is solved thanks you! ( I buy a 341A on ebay and i receive a 341B, but it's work now!!)
I did a piss-poor soldering job on this but it works for writing now... Thanks!!!!!!!!!! It was only able to read the chips before, but now it can read and write.
Thank you so much, saw this video just as I was getting ready to try and program a 3.3v BIOS! My soldering job was nowhere near as clean as yours but it worked nonetheless, thank you so much!
What is the voltage in data lines when the bios is just running in a PC? I'm wondering if this mod is really necessary. Used this programmer today unmodified on a MX25L6445E chip, worked fine.
Thanks for the video. I was hoping this would solve my issue. Problem is, now the CH341 chip gets *very* hot while connected. Also the status led (opposite side of the board power led) doesn't come on now. This is without the bios chip connected. Is the CH341 fine? I double checked the connections and they are correct according to the video. I'm at a loss here 🙁
Okay, this is really funny. This video shows how to bring level down to 3.3 V, but DrShock has a RUclips with his CH341 only providing 3.3 volt and shows how to modify his version of the board to bring it up to 5.0 V. Apparently, DrShock needs the 5V for automotive chip programming, while the 3.3V is needed for PC BIOS chips. Perhaps you guys can just trade boards? I'd say there are 2 versions out there and just be sure you get the one for your particular chip programming application. This is very interesting topic, though. I used a chip programmer with a sewing needle to 3.3 V power to re-program a 2015 Apple MacBook Prom to unlock it with chip in-place on board with a ribbon cable that attached to a SAM socket directly on the logic board. Nice and clean and no soldering. Just had to hold the pin steady for a few minutes to do the read, and then again to do the write. I'm typing this on that computer. Battery and power disconnected from logic board, sewing needle attached to a 3.3 V lead from an old PC power supply.
The supply voltage on the test socket of these -devices- toys are at 3.3V and the "signal-provider", the CH341, is powered with 5V. This leads to signals with 5V level. This mod is to fix this. Btw that shows that they are absolute bullshit and that we were ripped off( Yes, I was as stupid and stingy as the others). For a Microchip 93Cxx the signal levels are okay, but you need also 5V supply or your programmed data won't be reliable stored. That's nothing you want to gamble with in automotive applications:) Also the pin-layout is slightly different. That is what DrShock's Mod was for. See www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ch341a-serial-memory-programmer-power-supply-fix/ for a reference and the origin of this modifications. Also both videos are linked in this forum post.
Well, you can't always grab your hands on a version you specifically need. For example, in Ukraine I could only find the version of 5V, so I will have to do the mod, as my BIOS chip to be programmed is 3.3V
I also have to Remove EFI lock on 2015 macbook pro , Can I just use the CLIP straight to the chip ? that ribbon adaptor you talking about costs like 80$!
I was thinking of putting a dab of white/florescent paint near pin 1 of the socket to make things easier - in a hurry the lever alone might not be enough of a reminder.
I ended up just doing the pin 28 to regulator part, since pin 9 was already 3.3V. Working good now, was able to flash new bios to EN25F16 and MX25L8005 chips restoring 2 dead motherboards. Thanks for the video!
Hey, nice video! I'm confused. I checked the voltage as you did in video and I have the same result. In zif socket on pin 8 (VCC) I have 3.3V.... It's necessary to do this modification ? And if you want to make some JTAG from that pins you check, you have 3.3V pin. Anyway i liked the video ;)
I have a question, if I'm not able to do that soldering to make it be one 3v, is it safer to use the 1.8 adapter piece instead? Just a dump question to avoid and burn or bricking the IC 25 winbond chip.
I'm also looking and I guess the 1.8v board still outputs 5v unless you actually solder the chip to the 1.8v board. In short, the board doesn't drop voltages if still pressed into the socket.
I checked mine (connect to a cellphone charger), all yellow pin are 5v (mios, mosi, clk, cs) GND is 0 and the 3.3v have 3.3v i dont get what the problem with that? why they need to have 3.3v? Pin 1-2-5-6 have 5v and 3-7-8 with 3.3v only pin4 0v on the 25xx side and the 24xx side pin 1-2-3-4-7 are at 0v, pin8 3.3v and pin5-6 5v I just was watching a vid on how to read 93/95xx chip using a mod to get 5v on pin8 for the 25xx , but was thinking on get the 5v from the yellow pin of 5v (from the side), what will happen if I mod this to get perma 3.3v? will affect the 5v yellow pin?
Bro great work. I need to flash a 1.8V gpu bios chip but forgot to order the 1,8V converter. Any way to rewire it for 1.8? a resistor between 5 and 3.3V rails maybe?
Hello, I want to reprogram the eeprom 24s08 of my lenevo T500 pc, because the bios is corrupted. I can't find a copy of the original Bios .. .bin, I need your help to get an identical copy to the original. Thanks in advance.
Did anyone check if WHEN a Bios chip ect is being erased, programmed ect, what the V on those data lines at that time is? Maybe the program tells the chip to lower voltage to 3.3v?
I have a problem with this chip: GIGADEVICE 25Q32BSIG used in led tv like RCA, SPELER and others. When i backup the chip and reprogram the led tv works but the Remote Control doesn´t work an the LOGO disapers. I try with a Universal Remote and works with a diferent code from the original. This only hapens with that GIGADEVICE chip, WINBOND 25Q32FVSIG never gives that problem. May the MOD can help?
the software already checks if the file corresponds to the chip contents, so you might need a different software file for the tv, you could take the one from the other chip, save it and then flash it on the other chip, also backup the tv software online since they are hard to find and might help other users
Yeah, I recently found this same flaw with a similar device designed specifically for flashing ESP-01 modules - it has a yellow, 8-pin 0.1" socket on it for an ESP-01 to plug into. The ESP8266 is specifically *not* 5V-tolerant, and this board has a 3.3V regulator that it uses to power the ESP-01, as well as connecting 3.3V to GPIO0, GPIO2, and CH_PD/EN, but it puts 5V on both the TxD and RxD pins =/ It uses a 16-pin SOIC with no marking for the USB-to-UART conversion, but I suspect it's a CH340G, very similar to the CH341A you've got here. Surprisingly enough, I *don't* appear to have fried any ESP-01 modules with it in the time before I noticed this flaw (though of course the modules could be damaged in subtle ways), but it's very annoying regardless, and I no longer use that board, even if it is more convenient than others I have...
Exactly, there is always that doubt that you don't want from a tool. Having the correct voltage level can just let you concentrate on other parts of the circuit is something is not working at some point.
Esp8266 GPIO pins are protected with a snapback circuit and can handle up to around 6v though i would not push it past 5v personally (as mentioned within the data sheet), however the supply voltage remains only 3.3v tolerant, because of this boards like the nodemcu normally just connect the CH341 chip in the same configuration as used within this video.
QUE TAL AMIGO SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA. QUISIERA SABER SI PARA PROGRAMAR BIOS (MAIN) DE 5 VOLTIOS DEBO MODIFICAR ALGO EN EL PROGRAMADOR? CAMBAIR EL JUMPER DE POSICIÓN O NO EL ES ESTÁNDAR PARA 3.3 Y 5???
Wrong! The data lines are 3.3V when using the device. The voltage on the data lines WITHOUT connection is about 5V but as soon as you connect it to a chip and start communicating the voltage in fact IS 3.3V. So the modification is not only stupid it is also totally useless and even harmfull!
i used mine with no mods...it worked perfectly at 5v! i had no problems writing spi-s and atmega chips! i have a word...if it is not broken don't fix it!
My pcb says CH341a but the main chip says CH341B. I did the same mob and the voltages are appearing correct so I hope the CH341a and CH341b are the same.
Apparently the 5V data lines dont carry any current so ..shouldnt hurt your 3.3V device however the mod cant hurt unless..... Can that Main chip on the CH341 get damaged if you feed it 3.3 instead of 5V at pin 28? Anybody done this and used it many times with no problems or a hot chip?
Well done! Subscribed. If you would like to make (very) popular videos one way is to show the full process of flashing Thinkpad (because they're so popular) BIOS with Coreboot, Libreboot and especially with stock firmware to recover disabled notebooks. Many passwords are simply forgotten and the machines Ebayed without correcting the problem.
my programmer doesn't work. i did this mod successfully. and i thought it would fix my problem. but it seems that the programmer is faulty. not a single bios chip connects to it. it doesn't read the chip the power light just dims which means that there is a short somewhere. and it doesn't matter which way i put the test clip on it still just thinks that its shorted.
That is fair. A switch should work, as long as it's switched only while the device is not being powered. You also need to find a spot to place the switch that won't easily break off or interfere with operation. Given the amount of work involved, it seems like it would be easier to have 2 of them. But, if you already had one, adding a switch may be better than waiting 6-8 weeks for another one to be delivered.
It all depends on how often you are using this tool and how often you are working with 5V or 3.3V rated parts. Personally I rarely use it and I can't remember if I ever had to work with a 5V rated eeprom or flash. For me it doesn't make sense to have 5V in there.
Useless mod btw.. when u insert the chip it will switch to 3.3 instantly also only 3 pins are 5 the rest are 3.3 already and u can verify that with ur multimeter
You'd need to check the datasheet for the EEPROM in question, if it says it needs something like 4.5 to 5.5v supply it will not work, but this would be very uncommon today.
Hello Mr Voltlog, you dont know me but I have been lurking. Very impressed with your BST-863 dissassembly video. Actually there is something else in particular here can really help me out because I am in a spot after making a mistake. Flashied wrong firmware on to the (very same!) 1080p video capture card which you also featured in a previous video.. What happened? Well I simply was not satisfied with the 1080p30 being the highest 'true' mode. So I then found and downloaded this windows flashing program. It is all written in Chinese language. So when I was trying to backup the firmware I could not understand the words. And clicked a button that seemed to say 'read'. But read it was not. Actually the opposite and then it writes over the existing firmware with a new one. And then the other firmware was even worse! It took away the 1080p 30 fps mode. Sad face. It is then I see the PCB inside the metal cage, that there is a Macronix 25xxx SPI flash chip. Perhaps to have a little fun with it you can help me out? And try to read off the contents with your CH341A ? I would be very grateful. Because I cannot find anywhere to download back again return to the original firmware. Only some of these others. If I can send you those files also. But I do not really recommend for others to try to use them. Wishing you well, good day.
@@voltlog can we also reduce it to 1.8v, the step down buck3.3v regulator output, without buying a stupid 1.8v adapter? does this main ch341 chip work at 1.8v?
What is the point of this tutorial? I have the same programmer and I haven't modified it at all. To rewrite the memories, I use adapters and it's ok (with jumper set to 1-2) What you don't say is that: jumper on 2-3 is for the ISP interface. I use it successfully as USBisp and in Arduino IDE.
Unnecessary thing to worry about, i think. People sure love overengineering things and fixing what aren't broken. Have you ever seen a chip broken by one of these boards? They only have an internal current limit when actively driven up of 8mA per pin. When pulling up, it's even much less, about half a mA. ESD protection diodes in target devices appear to be able to dissipate the current easily. It's also likely running in WCH Pseudo-Bidi mode which is default on all pins, where they're actively driven up only for 2 cycles, and then always just pulled up weakly, so you get both the active drive signal quality and you don't end up pushing a lot of energy around. Maybe it's a bit rude, but it's alright. There is also a reason why they run the chip off 5V, i think. When powered by 3.3V, the WCH chips are not 5V tolerant!
I wouldn't call switching the VDD to the chip to the correct 3.3V for 3.3V logic, that's just engineering. Maybe if I would add a voltage level translator and a switch for having both 3.3V and 5V switchable that would be overengineering.
@Callum Faulds The supply voltage is only 3.3V, or however much you set it. If you route 5V into a 3V3 chip's power input, at low impedance, it's usually game over. The data pins get clamped to target chip's VCC by ESD diodes, and given their high source impedance, the damage is avoided. Or how'd you blow up the chip?
current cant burn anything without amps 5. v pin steps down under load to 3.3 v and therefore no need to modify no engineer fault design just bad reputations on net
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Before this mod, I got consistent verify error on GD25Q64C. Now after this mod, my CH341A works perfectly, thanks!
Hi delfin! im having trouble reading this same chip on a razer blade, i havent done this mod yet. Tried to read the chip before with all the programmers soft u can imagine. The ones that could read always read FF, could you tell me which version did u use and if i shoulddo this mod to be able to read it (Always with SOIC CLIP, battery and power adapter plugged in). Thank u a lot! All week spent on this.
I have a programmer but its chip is CH341B . any thoughts?
Hi. I just wanted to comment on this video. I also followed and used a USB power bank. This did output around 4.7 V to most pins, including most of the ZIF socket But when I checked VCC pin it was 3.3 V. So, I
then plugged the CH341A into computer. I checked voltage at socket #8 which is VCC to the chips. The output is 3.3 V, correct. All other sockets are at 0 V, nothing at 5 V. I am using it without modification. Test the VCC socket for V when connected to PC with proper driver. You may not need to do any modification.
Just checked mine the data pins are all 5v even though VCC is only 3.3v, I'll have to do the mod for sure. does your device look the same as the one in this video? It would be nice to find one that's actually designed properly.
У меня точно такой же китайский CH341A Gold и на нижней боковой планке выдает:
CLK = 2,1 v
CS = 4,1 v
MOSI = 2,1 v
MIOS = 2,1 v
GND
3,3 v
5 v
Great video! One word of advice to anyone trying this fix: Be VERY careful when lifting up the pin that is later bridged using the additional wire. When I tried to solder the wire onto the pin I lifted before, it broke off. It is likely that I damaged it already when lifting it up, but as a result it was impossible to solder any wire onto the chip and the whole thing is now toast. Thankfully, these things are cheap, so I'll just order another one, but better to avoid this happening in the first place.
I recommend using a desoldering wick. It's going to be easier when lifting up the pin.
@@jorgepayar3699 I did that, and it's definitively recommended, so to remove as much solder as possible.
Melhor ter comprado o conversor
Hello! Best to cut the track you showed. Then you have to put a jumper on +3.3V and 5V. This is the most elegant and easy solution!
I cannot thank you enough for this! I was worried about this defect from reading reviews online about these units. Glad to see it is an easy fix to be able to enjoy an extremely useful and valuable tool. THANKS AGAIN! :)
OMG been looking for this video for EVER! thank you soooo much! i knew this was what I wanted to do but finding a concise and simple explanation of how to do it eluded me , you da MAN!
So this means it is a design flaw and need to be fixed in order not to burn ICs? Did I understand right?
Thanks a lot for your video and clear images. Much appreciated.
Great tutorial, buddy! I've got the same ch341a programmer, I know where
to start from, but just wanted to confirm, other hackers have used it
successfully. Thanks!
Hi! Is there a way to add a switch to easily switch back and forth from 3.3V to 5V?
Thank you very much! my CH341B worked badly for writing a Winbond 25Q64FV now its works really well !!! my problem is solved thanks you! ( I buy a 341A on ebay and i receive a 341B, but it's work now!!)
which error did you get? mine could read the entire chip but couldn't erase/write to it
I am also trying to work with a 25Q64FV
I did a piss-poor soldering job on this but it works for writing now... Thanks!!!!!!!!!! It was only able to read the chips before, but now it can read and write.
Super job - well produced, clear and concise! Much appreciated. Well deserved thumbs up given!
Does the 1.8v adaptor still work after 3.3v moding?
The question is : the ic can run with 3,3volt instead of 5v ?
Maby we can add a diodes on the outputs to reduce voltage.
Thank you so much, saw this video just as I was getting ready to try and program a 3.3v BIOS! My soldering job was nowhere near as clean as yours but it worked nonetheless, thank you so much!
Finally, got this mod over the line - doesn't look too bad. Enameled wire was a bit thick and awkward as before.
Hello, After this process when I connect to the bios chip it get unknown device. I had to solder back all. It is not working from 3.2V.
Version 1.13 is not the latest version of the software. Version 1.18 has the IC picture with the correct orientation. V1.30 has it wrong again.
I knew this comment was coming and I thought about removing that part of the video in editing but in the end left it in there :-)
@@voltlog i did the mod like this is it right..?
What is the voltage in data lines when the bios is just running in a PC? I'm wondering if this mod is really necessary. Used this programmer today unmodified on a MX25L6445E chip, worked fine.
Thanks for the video. I was hoping this would solve my issue. Problem is, now the CH341 chip gets *very* hot while connected. Also the status led (opposite side of the board power led) doesn't come on now. This is without the bios chip connected. Is the CH341 fine? I double checked the connections and they are correct according to the video. I'm at a loss here 🙁
I have same issues
It doesn't read from laptop I use desktop ic it read clearly
I don't know what to do now
Please I want to know after modifying it to 3.3volt will it still read 5 volt bios ic
Okay, this is really funny. This video shows how to bring level down to 3.3 V, but DrShock has a RUclips with his CH341 only providing 3.3 volt and shows how to modify his version of the board to bring it up to 5.0 V. Apparently, DrShock needs the 5V for automotive chip programming, while the 3.3V is needed for PC BIOS chips. Perhaps you guys can just trade boards? I'd say there are 2 versions out there and just be sure you get the one for your particular chip programming application. This is very interesting topic, though. I used a chip programmer with a sewing needle to 3.3 V power to re-program a 2015 Apple MacBook Prom to unlock it with chip in-place on board with a ribbon cable that attached to a SAM socket directly on the logic board. Nice and clean and no soldering. Just had to hold the pin steady for a few minutes to do the read, and then again to do the write. I'm typing this on that computer. Battery and power disconnected from logic board, sewing needle attached to a 3.3 V lead from an old PC power supply.
The supply voltage on the test socket of these -devices- toys are at 3.3V and the "signal-provider", the CH341, is powered with 5V. This leads to signals with 5V level. This mod is to fix this.
Btw that shows that they are absolute bullshit and that we were ripped off( Yes, I was as stupid and stingy as the others).
For a Microchip 93Cxx the signal levels are okay, but you need also 5V supply or your programmed data won't be reliable stored. That's nothing you want to gamble with in automotive applications:) Also the pin-layout is slightly different. That is what DrShock's Mod was for.
See www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ch341a-serial-memory-programmer-power-supply-fix/ for a reference and the origin of this modifications. Also both videos are linked in this forum post.
Well, you can't always grab your hands on a version you specifically need.
For example, in Ukraine I could only find the version of 5V, so I will have to do the mod, as my BIOS chip to be programmed is 3.3V
I also have to Remove EFI lock on 2015 macbook pro , Can I just use the CLIP straight to the chip ? that ribbon adaptor you talking about costs like 80$!
I have a couple of these and just checked them and both have 1.5v on the data lines, I assume they have fixed the design error
1.5v on data lines? Shouldn't be 3.3v instead if they were fixed?
I was thinking of putting a dab of white/florescent paint near pin 1 of the socket to make things easier - in a hurry the lever alone might not be enough of a reminder.
yeah, good point!
Hmm.. My data lines have 5V but on CH341 pin 9 is already 3.3V. Was there another reason to connect pin 9 to regulator(3.3V)?
I ended up just doing the pin 28 to regulator part, since pin 9 was already 3.3V.
Working good now, was able to flash new bios to EN25F16 and MX25L8005 chips
restoring 2 dead motherboards. Thanks for the video!
i did this, but the data line measuring 3.1 volt, altough the ch341a vcc is 3.3 volt
Hey, nice video!
I'm confused. I checked the voltage as you did in video and I have the same result.
In zif socket on pin 8 (VCC) I have 3.3V....
It's necessary to do this modification ?
And if you want to make some JTAG from that pins you check, you have 3.3V pin.
Anyway i liked the video ;)
I ask the same, i have 3.3 volts where is it showed on pcb it is 3.3.
The other pins are all 5 volt. Should be all pins 3.3??
@@bruszttamaskaroly2831 yes. It have to be 3.3V. it's not OK to have 5V in data lines.
What are those yellow data lines really for?
This video has been very helpful. Thanks!
Thanks, very useful! I did the mod just now.
My ch341a
The red light does not turn on
The computer does not recognize it
Does he have a solution please?
Is it possible, can I flash BIOS with the help of my mobile ?
I have a question, if I'm not able to do that soldering to make it be one 3v, is it safer to use the 1.8 adapter piece instead? Just a dump question to avoid and burn or bricking the IC 25 winbond chip.
I'm also looking and I guess the 1.8v board still outputs 5v unless you actually solder the chip to the 1.8v board.
In short, the board doesn't drop voltages if still pressed into the socket.
I checked mine (connect to a cellphone charger), all yellow pin are 5v (mios, mosi, clk, cs) GND is 0 and the 3.3v have 3.3v i dont get what the problem with that? why they need to have 3.3v?
Pin 1-2-5-6 have 5v and 3-7-8 with 3.3v only pin4 0v on the 25xx side and the 24xx side pin 1-2-3-4-7 are at 0v, pin8 3.3v and pin5-6 5v
I just was watching a vid on how to read 93/95xx chip using a mod to get 5v on pin8 for the 25xx , but was thinking on get the 5v from the yellow pin of 5v (from the side), what will happen if I mod this to get perma 3.3v? will affect the 5v yellow pin?
Hi.. in case of a MXIC 25L6406E chip the flat ones ( 8 WSON) is also required this mod?
also did this mod. i was so confused why it was giving random verify addres errors
every time i would verify it would scream a diffrent addres
Thank you for this! I'll do this first thing when I get mine!
Does this mean that I don’t need the 3v adapter?
I need 1.8v for Nvidia bios chips in order to work, is it still possible to make this work?
AoA sir how to solve chip contents disagreement problem in ch341
Bro great work. I need to flash a 1.8V gpu bios chip but forgot to order the 1,8V converter. Any way to rewire it for 1.8? a resistor between 5 and 3.3V rails maybe?
What's the V3 pin for?
Hi, the ch341a can it Programms 93xxx and 93xxx? How to do it, because you remove the 5v one the 7 pin of the PCB. Thanks
Check this video, it may help ruclips.net/video/hPKckby54uA/видео.html
hi, is this programmer works on W25Q256xxx ic's?
3:00 uncoating copper wire can be a pain-in-the-ass when its too fine.
kynar wire for the win! very useful when messing with small pitch sizes
Hello,
I want to reprogram the eeprom 24s08 of my lenevo T500 pc, because the bios is corrupted. I can't find a copy of the original Bios ..
.bin, I need your help to get an identical copy to the original.
Thanks in advance.
Write correct model
Can someone post a link to the software! I need to unlock my car radio
I'm a bit confused with regards to pin 9. Do you solder it to the input of the regulator +5V?
The backside of that regulator, where he soldered pin 9 to, is outputting 3.3v on mine (unmodded).
@@Rukkus333 Thanks, for the amount it costs, I just bought one of the green models which outputs correct voltages.
Did anyone check if WHEN a Bios chip ect is being erased, programmed ect, what the V on those data lines at that time is? Maybe the program tells the chip to lower voltage to 3.3v?
I have a problem with this chip: GIGADEVICE 25Q32BSIG used in led tv like RCA, SPELER and others. When i backup the chip and reprogram the led tv works but the Remote Control doesn´t work an the LOGO disapers. I try with a Universal Remote and works with a diferent code from the original. This only hapens with that GIGADEVICE chip, WINBOND 25Q32FVSIG never gives that problem. May the MOD can help?
the software already checks if the file corresponds to the chip contents, so you might need a different software file for the tv, you could take the one from the other chip, save it and then flash it on the other chip, also backup the tv software online since they are hard to find and might help other users
Yeah, I recently found this same flaw with a similar device designed specifically for flashing ESP-01 modules - it has a yellow, 8-pin 0.1" socket on it for an ESP-01 to plug into.
The ESP8266 is specifically *not* 5V-tolerant, and this board has a 3.3V regulator that it uses to power the ESP-01, as well as connecting 3.3V to GPIO0, GPIO2, and CH_PD/EN, but it puts 5V on both the TxD and RxD pins =/
It uses a 16-pin SOIC with no marking for the USB-to-UART conversion, but I suspect it's a CH340G, very similar to the CH341A you've got here.
Surprisingly enough, I *don't* appear to have fried any ESP-01 modules with it in the time before I noticed this flaw (though of course the modules could be damaged in subtle ways), but it's very annoying regardless, and I no longer use that board, even if it is more convenient than others I have...
Exactly, there is always that doubt that you don't want from a tool. Having the correct voltage level can just let you concentrate on other parts of the circuit is something is not working at some point.
Esp8266 GPIO pins are protected with a snapback circuit and can handle up to around 6v though i would not push it past 5v personally (as mentioned within the data sheet), however the supply voltage remains only 3.3v tolerant, because of this boards like the nodemcu normally just connect the CH341 chip in the same configuration as used within this video.
Do you have VCC converted from 5V down to 3V ? Something has resistors to reduce the voltage ?
QUE TAL AMIGO SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA.
QUISIERA SABER SI PARA PROGRAMAR BIOS (MAIN) DE 5 VOLTIOS DEBO MODIFICAR ALGO EN EL PROGRAMADOR? CAMBAIR EL JUMPER DE POSICIÓN O NO EL ES ESTÁNDAR PARA 3.3 Y 5???
Great explanation, thank you😊
Wrong! The data lines are 3.3V when using the device. The voltage on the data lines WITHOUT connection is about 5V but as soon as you connect it to a chip and start communicating the voltage in fact IS 3.3V. So the modification is not only stupid it is also totally useless and even harmfull!
who knows, I did this and now Cips that I couldn't read, work without an issue..
@@fliporflop7119 Well I know. This mod is snake oil.
@@jarnovilen5259 why is it working?
i used mine with no mods...it worked perfectly at 5v! i had no problems writing spi-s and atmega chips! i have a word...if it is not broken don't fix it!
My pcb says CH341a but the main chip says CH341B. I did the same mob and the voltages are appearing correct so I hope the CH341a and CH341b are the same.
I found a data sheet for the 341b and it's the same as a so all good lol thx for the fix:)
Every time great work
can i use this plus a soic8 to unlock my macbook with firmware password?
Apparently the 5V data lines dont carry any current so ..shouldnt hurt your 3.3V device however the mod cant hurt unless..... Can that Main chip on the CH341 get damaged if you feed it 3.3 instead of 5V at pin 28? Anybody done this and used it many times with no problems or a hot chip?
I may do this mod but just plug the wire onto one of the 3.3v or 5v output pins instead
thanks for this great video and understandable explanation :)
Well done! Subscribed. If you would like to make (very) popular videos one way is to show the full process of flashing Thinkpad (because they're so popular) BIOS with Coreboot, Libreboot and especially with stock firmware to recover disabled notebooks. Many passwords are simply forgotten and the machines Ebayed without correcting the problem.
my programmer doesn't work. i did this mod successfully. and i thought it would fix my problem. but it seems that the programmer is faulty. not a single bios chip connects to it. it doesn't read the chip the power light just dims which means that there is a short somewhere. and it doesn't matter which way i put the test clip on it still just thinks that its shorted.
Mine is doing this too. I don't know if it's because the uefi bios chip is still on the motherboard? Did you try anything after this?
@@rinners you guys ever figured it out? I've got the same issue
did you figure it out?
Fantastic job.
Awesome work
Hello everyone... please me o other that they have CH314A Mini Programmer
Link please for CH341A Usb Mini Programmer Driver & Software
Thanks a lot. Made my day!
VoltLog, can I pay you to transfer me a modded programmer please?
Will it still work on 5v?
yes the amperage is measured in microamps lmao
no 3.3v chip will burn up from it, the Electronics Repair School channel guy even explicitly says this
So it 3,3v now, but what about 5v parts now?
These devices are so cheap that you could buy 2 of them and keep one for use with 5v and mod the other for use with 3.3v
@@farzadb82 hey where's the spirit? We could add a switch, no ?
That is fair. A switch should work, as long as it's switched only while the device is not being powered. You also need to find a spot to place the switch that won't easily break off or interfere with operation. Given the amount of work involved, it seems like it would be easier to have 2 of them. But, if you already had one, adding a switch may be better than waiting 6-8 weeks for another one to be delivered.
It all depends on how often you are using this tool and how often you are working with 5V or 3.3V rated parts. Personally I rarely use it and I can't remember if I ever had to work with a 5V rated eeprom or flash. For me it doesn't make sense to have 5V in there.
Did it work correctly in the end?
Yup, working fine.
Thanks so much I just did the repair.
Very good job 👏 👍 👌
I did the mod but i can not detect mx25l6473e in the ch341a can anyone help me..?
i have the same chip on my laptop, does the CH341A detect it without mod?
@@retroke6560 i detected the chip after i remove it from the board thanks for reply
@@mohamedahmed-cv5gl i just tried to read it and i could without having to remove it from the board, what devuce do you have?
i mean pc.
@@retroke6560 dell 3020
@@mohamedahmed-cv5gl man, back up your BIOS so you don't have to pay 4$ lile i did to get in my hand a working one for my asus rog gl552vx.
Very Helpful
i did this mode, but used Solder Mask instead of kapton tape.
thanks for this video !!
Useless mod btw.. when u insert the chip it will switch to 3.3 instantly also only 3 pins are 5 the rest are 3.3 already and u can verify that with ur multimeter
Will you work with EEPROM needs 5 volts after this modification? Thanks
You'd need to check the datasheet for the EEPROM in question, if it says it needs something like 4.5 to 5.5v supply it will not work, but this would be very uncommon today.
It works. Thank you :)
"Programmed to enjoy"
👍😎 ❤
Hello everyone... please me o other that they have CH314A Mini Programmer
Link please for CH341A Usb Mini Programmer Driver & Software
Hello Mr Voltlog, you dont know me but I have been lurking. Very impressed with your BST-863 dissassembly video. Actually there is something else in particular here can really help me out because I am in a spot after making a mistake. Flashied wrong firmware on to the (very same!) 1080p video capture card which you also featured in a previous video..
What happened? Well I simply was not satisfied with the 1080p30 being the highest 'true' mode. So I then found and downloaded this windows flashing program. It is all written in Chinese language. So when I was trying to backup the firmware I could not understand the words. And clicked a button that seemed to say 'read'. But read it was not. Actually the opposite and then it writes over the existing firmware with a new one. And then the other firmware was even worse! It took away the 1080p 30 fps mode. Sad face.
It is then I see the PCB inside the metal cage, that there is a Macronix 25xxx SPI flash chip. Perhaps to have a little fun with it you can help me out? And try to read off the contents with your CH341A ? I would be very grateful. Because I cannot find anywhere to download back again return to the original firmware. Only some of these others. If I can send you those files also. But I do not really recommend for others to try to use them. Wishing you well, good day.
I am adding that to my todo list, can't promise how soon it will happen but I'll leave a comment here when it's done.
@@voltlog oh wow, you really replied! LMAO in the RUclips comments here. Thank you.
@@voltlog can we also reduce it to 1.8v, the step down buck3.3v regulator output, without buying a stupid 1.8v adapter?
does this main ch341 chip work at 1.8v?
Hi, which programmer for Winbond 25Q128FVIQ (Asus Z10PA-D8) do you recommend?
What is the point of this tutorial? I have the same programmer and I haven't modified it at all. To rewrite the memories, I use adapters and it's ok (with jumper set to 1-2) What you don't say is that: jumper on 2-3 is for the ISP interface. I use it successfully as USBisp and in Arduino IDE.
there is no issue putting a 3.3v chip onto this, even at 5 volts. The amperage is too low to damage any 3.3v chips. It's literally just a dumb rumor
👏👏👏
Bro thank u a lot seriously
It gives also 5v
dude you are going wayy to fast what is the tool you used at 3:55 not the solder iron the one with the ball like ending attachment
It's not a tool. It's just solder!
@@ProdigalPorcupine where did you buy that from I’ve never seen solder with the ball like ending like that?
@@jwizz1396 - It’s just the way it’s melted, it can happen that way.
Unnecessary thing to worry about, i think. People sure love overengineering things and fixing what aren't broken. Have you ever seen a chip broken by one of these boards? They only have an internal current limit when actively driven up of 8mA per pin. When pulling up, it's even much less, about half a mA. ESD protection diodes in target devices appear to be able to dissipate the current easily. It's also likely running in WCH Pseudo-Bidi mode which is default on all pins, where they're actively driven up only for 2 cycles, and then always just pulled up weakly, so you get both the active drive signal quality and you don't end up pushing a lot of energy around. Maybe it's a bit rude, but it's alright.
There is also a reason why they run the chip off 5V, i think. When powered by 3.3V, the WCH chips are not 5V tolerant!
I wouldn't call switching the VDD to the chip to the correct 3.3V for 3.3V logic, that's just engineering. Maybe if I would add a voltage level translator and a switch for having both 3.3V and 5V switchable that would be overengineering.
@Callum Faulds The supply voltage is only 3.3V, or however much you set it. If you route 5V into a 3V3 chip's power input, at low impedance, it's usually game over. The data pins get clamped to target chip's VCC by ESD diodes, and given their high source impedance, the damage is avoided. Or how'd you blow up the chip?
useful info....
1:01. I read 0.9 volts
Hi can do 5 volt plz I wana use for eeprom for car immo
شكرا لك
instant like and subscribe 👍
AWESOME
current cant burn anything without amps 5. v pin steps down under load to 3.3 v and therefore no need to modify no engineer fault design just bad reputations on net
Great vid, but daaaamn it. I bought it to fix my monitor IC205 chip. Now I see I have even worse problem of messing witch CH341 mods. F... sake!!!!
Need firmware for hard disk ST350413AS JC66 firmware as bios ic is corrupted
By the way it is not easy. Maybe easy only for somebody skilled and having proger wires/glues.