CH341 Programmer 3.3V Fix | Voltlog
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2020
- High quality quick turn PCB Services www.pcbway.com If you watched the previous mailbag video I showed getting this CH341 programmer tool for EEPROMS and FLASH chips and my viewers were quick to point out this actually has a design problem regarding the voltage levels it puts out. So it appears there is a 3.3V regulator on board for providing power to the eeprom or flash chip via the zif socket but the CH341A itself is running at 5V which means it outputs 5V signals on the SPI bus.
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#VoltLog #CH341 #fixed
Welcome to a new Voltlog, if you watched the previous mailbag video I showed getting this CH341 programmer tool for EEPROMS and FLASH chips and my viewers were quick to point out this actually has a design problem regarding the voltage levels it puts out. So it appears there is a 3.3V regulator on board for providing power to the eeprom or flash chip via the zif socket but the CH341 itself is running at 5V which means it outputs 5V signals on the SPI bus.
Someone has reverse engineered this little board and put together a schematic which clearly shows pin 28 VCC connected to 5V but I want to make sure nothing has changed and this is still present. And checking with a multimeter, pin 28 is still connected to 5V USB. Now I’m just gonna power the programmer from a powerbank and probe the data lines and as we can see they are pulled up to 5V.
Connecting a 3.3V rated part for programming might result in damaging that part. You might get lucky, you might have a chip that will tolerate that but in general that’s bad practice and so we’re going to attempt to fix it by simply cutting the 5V line going into the CH341 pin 28 and supplying it with 3.3V from the onboard regulator instead. And the datasheet also specifies that V3 pin 9 should be connected to VCC and 3.3V as well.
That should be an easy to do job, even without any magnification because the packages used on this board are pretty big but since I have a nice microscope that can also capture full HD images, I’m going to do it under the microscope just so you can see what I’m doing and I’m going to use some enameled copper wire for these mods, this stuff is readily available online, I’ll put a link in the description. So one way to do this mod is to lift pin 28 from the pad, add some insulation between the pin and the pad, maybe some kapton tape and solder a thin wire that will connect pin 28 to 3.3V. Messing with the pcb track bringing in 5V to the chip is risky because we don’t have a board view, we don’t know if that track is connected to something else under the chip so it’s best to leave that alone.
So here is a short clip where I lift pin 28 by first adding in some fresh leaded solder and some flux, then I clean with some IPA and add a thin piece of kapton tape. Next some enameled copper wire was soldered to pin 28 and routed up to the middle pin of the regulator which is the 3.3V rail.
Next I did the same connection for pin 9, but this time there is no need to lift the pin from the PCB because it’s just connected to a bypass cap. To finish this off I would recommend adding some kind of glue to the wires to prevent them from breaking-off. I use some of this transparent silicone adhesive, apart from the fact that it cures pretty slow this is really nice stuff, I highly recommend you get yourself a tube of this and you will find a link in the description below the video
It was a quick 5 minute job to do this mod, really easy and like I said, there is no need for magnification. Now let’s check the voltages we get… and we have 3.3V on pin 28 and on pin 9, that’s good. And let’s check the data pins, yup they are now pulled up to 3.3V which is what we want. So I call this a success and a perfectly good example of the power of the youtube community, oftentimes I’m getting really useful feedback from my viewers and I appreciate that. 
Наука
Before this mod, I got consistent verify error on GD25Q64C. Now after this mod, my CH341A works perfectly, thanks!
Hi delfin! im having trouble reading this same chip on a razer blade, i havent done this mod yet. Tried to read the chip before with all the programmers soft u can imagine. The ones that could read always read FF, could you tell me which version did u use and if i shoulddo this mod to be able to read it (Always with SOIC CLIP, battery and power adapter plugged in). Thank u a lot! All week spent on this.
I cannot thank you enough for this! I was worried about this defect from reading reviews online about these units. Glad to see it is an easy fix to be able to enjoy an extremely useful and valuable tool. THANKS AGAIN! :)
OMG been looking for this video for EVER! thank you soooo much! i knew this was what I wanted to do but finding a concise and simple explanation of how to do it eluded me , you da MAN!
Super job - well produced, clear and concise! Much appreciated. Well deserved thumbs up given!
Great tutorial, buddy! I've got the same ch341a programmer, I know where
to start from, but just wanted to confirm, other hackers have used it
successfully. Thanks!
Thank you so much, saw this video just as I was getting ready to try and program a 3.3v BIOS! My soldering job was nowhere near as clean as yours but it worked nonetheless, thank you so much!
Amazing tutorial! I did this on mine and it worked flawlessly! You are the mvp!!!
I did a piss-poor soldering job on this but it works for writing now... Thanks!!!!!!!!!! It was only able to read the chips before, but now it can read and write.
Thanks, very useful! I did the mod just now.
Hi. I just wanted to comment on this video. I also followed and used a USB power bank. This did output around 4.7 V to most pins, including most of the ZIF socket But when I checked VCC pin it was 3.3 V. So, I
then plugged the CH341A into computer. I checked voltage at socket #8 which is VCC to the chips. The output is 3.3 V, correct. All other sockets are at 0 V, nothing at 5 V. I am using it without modification. Test the VCC socket for V when connected to PC with proper driver. You may not need to do any modification.
Just checked mine the data pins are all 5v even though VCC is only 3.3v, I'll have to do the mod for sure. does your device look the same as the one in this video? It would be nice to find one that's actually designed properly.
У меня точно такой же китайский CH341A Gold и на нижней боковой планке выдает:
CLK = 2,1 v
CS = 4,1 v
MOSI = 2,1 v
MIOS = 2,1 v
GND
3,3 v
5 v
Thank you for this! I'll do this first thing when I get mine!
Hello! Best to cut the track you showed. Then you have to put a jumper on +3.3V and 5V. This is the most elegant and easy solution!
Great explanation, thank you😊
thanks for this great video and understandable explanation :)
Awesome work
Fantastic job.
Thanks so much I just did the repair.
Great video! One word of advice to anyone trying this fix: Be VERY careful when lifting up the pin that is later bridged using the additional wire. When I tried to solder the wire onto the pin I lifted before, it broke off. It is likely that I damaged it already when lifting it up, but as a result it was impossible to solder any wire onto the chip and the whole thing is now toast. Thankfully, these things are cheap, so I'll just order another one, but better to avoid this happening in the first place.
I recommend using a desoldering wick. It's going to be easier when lifting up the pin.
@@jorgepayar3699 I did that, and it's definitively recommended, so to remove as much solder as possible.
Melhor ter comprado o conversor
Every time great work
Thank you very much! my CH341B worked badly for writing a Winbond 25Q64FV now its works really well !!! my problem is solved thanks you! ( I buy a 341A on ebay and i receive a 341B, but it's work now!!)
which error did you get? mine could read the entire chip but couldn't erase/write to it
I am also trying to work with a 25Q64FV
thanks for this video !!
Thanks a lot. Made my day!
It works. Thank you :)
Very Helpful
Very good job 👏 👍 👌
"Programmed to enjoy"
👍😎 ❤
Hello everyone... please me o other that they have CH314A Mini Programmer
Link please for CH341A Usb Mini Programmer Driver & Software
3:00 uncoating copper wire can be a pain-in-the-ass when its too fine.
kynar wire for the win! very useful when messing with small pitch sizes
Bro thank u a lot seriously
Thank you kindly :)
useful info....
AWESOME
Well done! Subscribed. If you would like to make (very) popular videos one way is to show the full process of flashing Thinkpad (because they're so popular) BIOS with Coreboot, Libreboot and especially with stock firmware to recover disabled notebooks. Many passwords are simply forgotten and the machines Ebayed without correcting the problem.
So this means it is a design flaw and need to be fixed in order not to burn ICs? Did I understand right?
Thanks a lot for your video and clear images. Much appreciated.
👏👏👏
Bro great work. I need to flash a 1.8V gpu bios chip but forgot to order the 1,8V converter. Any way to rewire it for 1.8? a resistor between 5 and 3.3V rails maybe?
Thanks for the video. I was hoping this would solve my issue. Problem is, now the CH341 chip gets *very* hot while connected. Also the status led (opposite side of the board power led) doesn't come on now. This is without the bios chip connected. Is the CH341 fine? I double checked the connections and they are correct according to the video. I'm at a loss here 🙁
Hi! Is there a way to add a switch to easily switch back and forth from 3.3V to 5V?
Hi.. in case of a MXIC 25L6406E chip the flat ones ( 8 WSON) is also required this mod?
instant like and subscribe 👍
Does the 1.8v adaptor still work after 3.3v moding?
What is the voltage in data lines when the bios is just running in a PC? I'm wondering if this mod is really necessary. Used this programmer today unmodified on a MX25L6445E chip, worked fine.
I was thinking of putting a dab of white/florescent paint near pin 1 of the socket to make things easier - in a hurry the lever alone might not be enough of a reminder.
yeah, good point!
AoA sir how to solve chip contents disagreement problem in ch341
Okay, this is really funny. This video shows how to bring level down to 3.3 V, but DrShock has a RUclips with his CH341 only providing 3.3 volt and shows how to modify his version of the board to bring it up to 5.0 V. Apparently, DrShock needs the 5V for automotive chip programming, while the 3.3V is needed for PC BIOS chips. Perhaps you guys can just trade boards? I'd say there are 2 versions out there and just be sure you get the one for your particular chip programming application. This is very interesting topic, though. I used a chip programmer with a sewing needle to 3.3 V power to re-program a 2015 Apple MacBook Prom to unlock it with chip in-place on board with a ribbon cable that attached to a SAM socket directly on the logic board. Nice and clean and no soldering. Just had to hold the pin steady for a few minutes to do the read, and then again to do the write. I'm typing this on that computer. Battery and power disconnected from logic board, sewing needle attached to a 3.3 V lead from an old PC power supply.
The supply voltage on the test socket of these -devices- toys are at 3.3V and the "signal-provider", the CH341, is powered with 5V. This leads to signals with 5V level. This mod is to fix this.
Btw that shows that they are absolute bullshit and that we were ripped off( Yes, I was as stupid and stingy as the others).
For a Microchip 93Cxx the signal levels are okay, but you need also 5V supply or your programmed data won't be reliable stored. That's nothing you want to gamble with in automotive applications:) Also the pin-layout is slightly different. That is what DrShock's Mod was for.
See www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/ch341a-serial-memory-programmer-power-supply-fix/ for a reference and the origin of this modifications. Also both videos are linked in this forum post.
Well, you can't always grab your hands on a version you specifically need.
For example, in Ukraine I could only find the version of 5V, so I will have to do the mod, as my BIOS chip to be programmed is 3.3V
I also have to Remove EFI lock on 2015 macbook pro , Can I just use the CLIP straight to the chip ? that ribbon adaptor you talking about costs like 80$!
also did this mod. i was so confused why it was giving random verify addres errors
every time i would verify it would scream a diffrent addres
I checked mine (connect to a cellphone charger), all yellow pin are 5v (mios, mosi, clk, cs) GND is 0 and the 3.3v have 3.3v i dont get what the problem with that? why they need to have 3.3v?
Pin 1-2-5-6 have 5v and 3-7-8 with 3.3v only pin4 0v on the 25xx side and the 24xx side pin 1-2-3-4-7 are at 0v, pin8 3.3v and pin5-6 5v
I just was watching a vid on how to read 93/95xx chip using a mod to get 5v on pin8 for the 25xx , but was thinking on get the 5v from the yellow pin of 5v (from the side), what will happen if I mod this to get perma 3.3v? will affect the 5v yellow pin?
Yeah, I recently found this same flaw with a similar device designed specifically for flashing ESP-01 modules - it has a yellow, 8-pin 0.1" socket on it for an ESP-01 to plug into.
The ESP8266 is specifically *not* 5V-tolerant, and this board has a 3.3V regulator that it uses to power the ESP-01, as well as connecting 3.3V to GPIO0, GPIO2, and CH_PD/EN, but it puts 5V on both the TxD and RxD pins =/
It uses a 16-pin SOIC with no marking for the USB-to-UART conversion, but I suspect it's a CH340G, very similar to the CH341A you've got here.
Surprisingly enough, I *don't* appear to have fried any ESP-01 modules with it in the time before I noticed this flaw (though of course the modules could be damaged in subtle ways), but it's very annoying regardless, and I no longer use that board, even if it is more convenient than others I have...
Exactly, there is always that doubt that you don't want from a tool. Having the correct voltage level can just let you concentrate on other parts of the circuit is something is not working at some point.
Esp8266 GPIO pins are protected with a snapback circuit and can handle up to around 6v though i would not push it past 5v personally (as mentioned within the data sheet), however the supply voltage remains only 3.3v tolerant, because of this boards like the nodemcu normally just connect the CH341 chip in the same configuration as used within this video.
i did this, but the data line measuring 3.1 volt, altough the ch341a vcc is 3.3 volt
I have a question, if I'm not able to do that soldering to make it be one 3v, is it safer to use the 1.8 adapter piece instead? Just a dump question to avoid and burn or bricking the IC 25 winbond chip.
I'm also looking and I guess the 1.8v board still outputs 5v unless you actually solder the chip to the 1.8v board.
In short, the board doesn't drop voltages if still pressed into the socket.
What are those yellow data lines really for?
hi, is this programmer works on W25Q256xxx ic's?
👍👍
I need 1.8v for Nvidia bios chips in order to work, is it still possible to make this work?
Hey, nice video!
I'm confused. I checked the voltage as you did in video and I have the same result.
In zif socket on pin 8 (VCC) I have 3.3V....
It's necessary to do this modification ?
And if you want to make some JTAG from that pins you check, you have 3.3V pin.
Anyway i liked the video ;)
I ask the same, i have 3.3 volts where is it showed on pcb it is 3.3.
The other pins are all 5 volt. Should be all pins 3.3??
@@bruszttamaskaroly2831 yes. It have to be 3.3V. it's not OK to have 5V in data lines.
What's the V3 pin for?
Do you have VCC converted from 5V down to 3V ? Something has resistors to reduce the voltage ?
QUE TAL AMIGO SALUDOS DESDE VENEZUELA.
QUISIERA SABER SI PARA PROGRAMAR BIOS (MAIN) DE 5 VOLTIOS DEBO MODIFICAR ALGO EN EL PROGRAMADOR? CAMBAIR EL JUMPER DE POSICIÓN O NO EL ES ESTÁNDAR PARA 3.3 Y 5???
Does this mean that I don’t need the 3v adapter?
I have a couple of these and just checked them and both have 1.5v on the data lines, I assume they have fixed the design error
1.5v on data lines? Shouldn't be 3.3v instead if they were fixed?
My ch341a
The red light does not turn on
The computer does not recognize it
Does he have a solution please?
Hello,
I want to reprogram the eeprom 24s08 of my lenevo T500 pc, because the bios is corrupted. I can't find a copy of the original Bios ..
.bin, I need your help to get an identical copy to the original.
Thanks in advance.
Write correct model
I may do this mod but just plug the wire onto one of the 3.3v or 5v output pins instead
Hello everyone... please me o other that they have CH314A Mini Programmer
Link please for CH341A Usb Mini Programmer Driver & Software
Hmm.. My data lines have 5V but on CH341 pin 9 is already 3.3V. Was there another reason to connect pin 9 to regulator(3.3V)?
I ended up just doing the pin 28 to regulator part, since pin 9 was already 3.3V.
Working good now, was able to flash new bios to EN25F16 and MX25L8005 chips
restoring 2 dead motherboards. Thanks for the video!
I'm a bit confused with regards to pin 9. Do you solder it to the input of the regulator +5V?
The backside of that regulator, where he soldered pin 9 to, is outputting 3.3v on mine (unmodded).
@@Rukkus333 Thanks, for the amount it costs, I just bought one of the green models which outputs correct voltages.
Hi, the ch341a can it Programms 93xxx and 93xxx? How to do it, because you remove the 5v one the 7 pin of the PCB. Thanks
Check this video, it may help ruclips.net/video/hPKckby54uA/видео.html
I have a problem with this chip: GIGADEVICE 25Q32BSIG used in led tv like RCA, SPELER and others. When i backup the chip and reprogram the led tv works but the Remote Control doesn´t work an the LOGO disapers. I try with a Universal Remote and works with a diferent code from the original. This only hapens with that GIGADEVICE chip, WINBOND 25Q32FVSIG never gives that problem. May the MOD can help?
the software already checks if the file corresponds to the chip contents, so you might need a different software file for the tv, you could take the one from the other chip, save it and then flash it on the other chip, also backup the tv software online since they are hard to find and might help other users
i did this mode, but used Solder Mask instead of kapton tape.
My pcb says CH341a but the main chip says CH341B. I did the same mob and the voltages are appearing correct so I hope the CH341a and CH341b are the same.
I found a data sheet for the 341b and it's the same as a so all good lol thx for the fix:)
Version 1.13 is not the latest version of the software. Version 1.18 has the IC picture with the correct orientation. V1.30 has it wrong again.
I knew this comment was coming and I thought about removing that part of the video in editing but in the end left it in there :-)
@@voltlog i did the mod like this is it right..?
Can someone post a link to the software! I need to unlock my car radio
Did it work correctly in the end?
Yup, working fine.
i used mine with no mods...it worked perfectly at 5v! i had no problems writing spi-s and atmega chips! i have a word...if it is not broken don't fix it!
Will it still work on 5v?
yes the amperage is measured in microamps lmao
no 3.3v chip will burn up from it, the Electronics Repair School channel guy even explicitly says this
Hi, which programmer for Winbond 25Q128FVIQ (Asus Z10PA-D8) do you recommend?
It gives also 5v
Will you work with EEPROM needs 5 volts after this modification? Thanks
You'd need to check the datasheet for the EEPROM in question, if it says it needs something like 4.5 to 5.5v supply it will not work, but this would be very uncommon today.
my programmer doesn't work. i did this mod successfully. and i thought it would fix my problem. but it seems that the programmer is faulty. not a single bios chip connects to it. it doesn't read the chip the power light just dims which means that there is a short somewhere. and it doesn't matter which way i put the test clip on it still just thinks that its shorted.
Mine is doing this too. I don't know if it's because the uefi bios chip is still on the motherboard? Did you try anything after this?
@@rinners you guys ever figured it out? I've got the same issue
did you figure it out?
VoltLog, can I pay you to transfer me a modded programmer please?
Great vid, but daaaamn it. I bought it to fix my monitor IC205 chip. Now I see I have even worse problem of messing witch CH341 mods. F... sake!!!!
So it 3,3v now, but what about 5v parts now?
These devices are so cheap that you could buy 2 of them and keep one for use with 5v and mod the other for use with 3.3v
@@farzadb82 hey where's the spirit? We could add a switch, no ?
That is fair. A switch should work, as long as it's switched only while the device is not being powered. You also need to find a spot to place the switch that won't easily break off or interfere with operation. Given the amount of work involved, it seems like it would be easier to have 2 of them. But, if you already had one, adding a switch may be better than waiting 6-8 weeks for another one to be delivered.
It all depends on how often you are using this tool and how often you are working with 5V or 3.3V rated parts. Personally I rarely use it and I can't remember if I ever had to work with a 5V rated eeprom or flash. For me it doesn't make sense to have 5V in there.
I did the mod but i can not detect mx25l6473e in the ch341a can anyone help me..?
i have the same chip on my laptop, does the CH341A detect it without mod?
@@retroke6560 i detected the chip after i remove it from the board thanks for reply
@@mohamedahmed-cv5gl i just tried to read it and i could without having to remove it from the board, what devuce do you have?
i mean pc.
@@retroke6560 dell 3020
@@mohamedahmed-cv5gl man, back up your BIOS so you don't have to pay 4$ lile i did to get in my hand a working one for my asus rog gl552vx.
1:01. I read 0.9 volts
can i use this plus a soic8 to unlock my macbook with firmware password?
Hello Mr Voltlog, you dont know me but I have been lurking. Very impressed with your BST-863 dissassembly video. Actually there is something else in particular here can really help me out because I am in a spot after making a mistake. Flashied wrong firmware on to the (very same!) 1080p video capture card which you also featured in a previous video..
What happened? Well I simply was not satisfied with the 1080p30 being the highest 'true' mode. So I then found and downloaded this windows flashing program. It is all written in Chinese language. So when I was trying to backup the firmware I could not understand the words. And clicked a button that seemed to say 'read'. But read it was not. Actually the opposite and then it writes over the existing firmware with a new one. And then the other firmware was even worse! It took away the 1080p 30 fps mode. Sad face.
It is then I see the PCB inside the metal cage, that there is a Macronix 25xxx SPI flash chip. Perhaps to have a little fun with it you can help me out? And try to read off the contents with your CH341A ? I would be very grateful. Because I cannot find anywhere to download back again return to the original firmware. Only some of these others. If I can send you those files also. But I do not really recommend for others to try to use them. Wishing you well, good day.
I am adding that to my todo list, can't promise how soon it will happen but I'll leave a comment here when it's done.
@@voltlog oh wow, you really replied! LMAO in the RUclips comments here. Thank you.
@@voltlog can we also reduce it to 1.8v, the step down buck3.3v regulator output, without buying a stupid 1.8v adapter?
does this main ch341 chip work at 1.8v?
:D 😃
This is not necessary to do. Just read the famn documentation and study the schematics for this device. For FS
Hi can do 5 volt plz I wana use for eeprom for car immo
current cant burn anything without amps 5. v pin steps down under load to 3.3 v and therefore no need to modify no engineer fault design just bad reputations on net
What is the point of this tutorial? I have the same programmer and I haven't modified it at all. To rewrite the memories, I use adapters and it's ok (with jumper set to 1-2) What you don't say is that: jumper on 2-3 is for the ISP interface. I use it successfully as USBisp and in Arduino IDE.
By the way it is not easy. Maybe easy only for somebody skilled and having proger wires/glues.
there is no issue putting a 3.3v chip onto this, even at 5 volts. The amperage is too low to damage any 3.3v chips. It's literally just a dumb rumor
Need firmware for hard disk ST350413AS JC66 firmware as bios ic is corrupted
Useless mod btw.. when u insert the chip it will switch to 3.3 instantly also only 3 pins are 5 the rest are 3.3 already and u can verify that with ur multimeter
Wrong! The data lines are 3.3V when using the device. The voltage on the data lines WITHOUT connection is about 5V but as soon as you connect it to a chip and start communicating the voltage in fact IS 3.3V. So the modification is not only stupid it is also totally useless and even harmfull!
who knows, I did this and now Cips that I couldn't read, work without an issue..
@@fliporflop7119 Well I know. This mod is snake oil.
@@jarnovilen5259 why is it working?
there you go WTF? 5 V - your 87V is on Ohms doh - don't solder your jumper wire to the chip first
dude you are going wayy to fast what is the tool you used at 3:55 not the solder iron the one with the ball like ending attachment
It's not a tool. It's just solder!
@@ProdigalPorcupine where did you buy that from I’ve never seen solder with the ball like ending like that?
@@jwizz1396 - It’s just the way it’s melted, it can happen that way.
Thank you for your video. Just to mention, if people need a good way to clamp to the chip, this video shows mini-clamps, very helpful! ruclips.net/video/r7j7KThqTXM/видео.html The standard CH341a clamp is nigh impossible to use
Unnecessary thing to worry about, i think. People sure love overengineering things and fixing what aren't broken. Have you ever seen a chip broken by one of these boards? They only have an internal current limit when actively driven up of 8mA per pin. When pulling up, it's even much less, about half a mA. ESD protection diodes in target devices appear to be able to dissipate the current easily. It's also likely running in WCH Pseudo-Bidi mode which is default on all pins, where they're actively driven up only for 2 cycles, and then always just pulled up weakly, so you get both the active drive signal quality and you don't end up pushing a lot of energy around. Maybe it's a bit rude, but it's alright.
There is also a reason why they run the chip off 5V, i think. When powered by 3.3V, the WCH chips are not 5V tolerant!
I wouldn't call switching the VDD to the chip to the correct 3.3V for 3.3V logic, that's just engineering. Maybe if I would add a voltage level translator and a switch for having both 3.3V and 5V switchable that would be overengineering.
I blew up a GPU BIOS chip because the voltage was too high. It's not overengineering or unnecessary worrying at all. It's a useful modification.
@@fcallum77 The supply voltage is only 3.3V, or however much you set it. If you route 5V into a 3V3 chip's power input, at low impedance, it's usually game over. The data pins get clamped to target chip's VCC by ESD diodes, and given their high source impedance, the damage is avoided. Or how'd you blow up the chip?
no there is not as soon you start read rhite de voltage drop and besite that ad 0.07 micro amps you cant burn chips i donr untherstand as a electrician you do not know this
made in china... of course...