This channel is so well put together. His teaching style is fantastic! I love how he’s willing to step back and let us know when he wasn’t correct about something. You can tell he genuinely wants to teach what he knows to help us. Great job brother 🤘🏽
I STUMBLED RANDOMLY ON YOUR VIDEO ON RECOMMENDED ABOUT MONTH AGO...I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!! VERY INFORMATIVE!! On a side note...with all the BASS Testing in the house...your wife is cool with all the BOOM BOOM 💥 from those subwoofer she hears constantly from Testing ?! 😆
@@moneycat3789 The power wire from the battery to amp is 2 runs of 4ga ofc from KnuKonceptz. Its slightly oversized. I have the same. Its got a 6.5mm core diameter which the AWG classifies as 2ga. Its hefty stuff.
My stock alternator is 180 amps. My car has 5 heated seats. Without the seat heaters, headlights, and ac/heat i can easily have 91 amps in reserve from the alternator. Thanks for showing this vid. I did not realize that the amperage draw would be different between the main batteries and the caps. Always learn something new, and I know quite a bit. Keep the vids coming bro.
I believe the Ultracap can supply that additional power for a short time before it has to draw higher current from the upstream components. He only did maybe 2 seconds at a time. With music the cap can smooth out the higher surges. If your music is really bass heavy with long notes, etc... its going to draw much more than the 90A in the video. Remember that the amp was drawing 230A.
Most informational video I’ve seen on how these things all work together. Really helped me on making an informed decision on what to buy and why. I appreciate it.
Those power supplies are really only rated to put out 80% of thier power, so that's pretty much spot on. Thanks for the tests bubby. Looking forward to more tests on those headways.
commenting beforehand, the voltage is going to be the same where ever you measure, minus the voltage drop of the wires between the units. Now the wires are heavy gauge wires so the drop will be minimal. With that said, i think you are very dedicated and even at 300 subs you had a giveaway and that's dedication. You have a great setup here
atleast now i know the super caps going to do what i want it to do, If the battery is only pushing 90 amps, And overall its doing 200+ to the amp, that capacitor banks doing work. this is exactly what i need for my sq setup in my bedroom. im using 3 ovp bypassed server computers that do 64 amps each. and the power draw of a 1200.4 and a 2000.1 amp Makes them trip from surge. im hoping that adding a ioxus cap will get rid of that power trip i keep getting . this basically verifies what i need .thanks for your very informative video.
Whichever has the higher voltage and most capacity will carry everything else. And balancing in parallel works best when charging at an amp or two. Lifepo4 has a really flat discharge curve. Every cell can be at 3.3v and be charged higher or lower. I love experiments like these. It's how we learn brotha!
i thought Id learn something new. I didnt. All i learnt was confirmation of my basic logic. If your car requires 100amps from your stock alternator and you install something new that draws an additional 100 amps then logic dictates you need a higher output alternator. Putting extra batteries or capacitors is pointless unless you want to play music without the alternator running. Most people want to listen to their music with their gear at 100% of its rated power and they keep getting half arsed answers from people in the industry. Your video just proved with evidence that the key is the alternator. Batteries and capacitors are for when you want to listen to your music without the car running which is stupid.
ahhhhhhhhh i cant wait for the headway ampere test. just bought a pack myself and plan to upgrade to the md 8k later down the road... same as you rn :)
“This community for enough misinformation” ain’t that the truth. I’ve been wrong a gang of times too. Us DIY guys are trying to find some solid answers but honestly I don’t think they’re are too many rock solid truths in car audio. I guess maybe if you had very expensive measuring tools. I wish you were closer so I could throw your spl meter and that SMD impedance tool on my system. I’ll design a box for you in exchange if you’re not up on WIN ISD. Is the spl labs meter the cheapest meter that measures low frequencies? Thanks bro
Good video bro. One thing I just noticed is that you said the headway is rated for 200 amps continuous but you have a 64ah bank of them. Which is basically 8 banks of 4 cells. Each bank of 4 cells is capable of a 200amp draw. With 8 banks that's 1600 amps of current at the max discharge rate which is capable of powering two of those MD 8000.1 also invest in cell voltage balancer for the lithiums bro. You'll extend your batteries life span and make sure everything is charging evenly
What your mixing up is that when cells are wired in parallel the amps add up. When wired in series the amps stay the same. Remember that watts/power is amps times voltage. So if each bank of 4 cells is rated at 200A, then 7 more banks of the same in series is still 200A, but the voltage is higher. You would only get 1600A if you wired all 32 cells in parallel, but the voltage would be way too low. I hope that clears it up.
I just looked up this battery module. They say each individual cell can do 200A. So 4 in parallel would be 800A and then 8 banks of 4 in series is 24v 800A. For a 12v application you want to wire them as 4 banks of 8 or 4S8P. That would be 12v 1600A. Maybe that is what you meant?
I got 475 AH of AGM on a stock alternator I can do 500 amps of current peaks on music and stay above 12 volts, it’s pretty crazy how loud you can get on stock alt. never blown a amp or subwoofer but I do not let anything clip including the RCA signal
Oh man I see we share 2 Hobbies. CAR AUDIO & RC'S 😁😁🤜🏼🤛🏾. I've been thinking about getting that Goofy 64 Impala that Redcat came out with and making a mini audio system for 🔊😎.
Dang I need that but I went to the description and it said 450 I might let the shop tune it, I have the one meter to set the gain it was like 30 bucks. Hopefully they don’t tax if I go to the sound shop I’ll pay for the quick labor
You prob already know this but can run convertors in parallel adds more amp output, im tryin get away with a couple convertors and power caps do away with a battery
I also have a Beast Module. I set it up as two 12v with 16 cells each. Fyi..the BM is not 200amp continuous..that the rating of each individual Headway cell.
No 2v on those lifepo4 cells. 3v at minimum each. thats ALL of the capacity. You dont use these only if you have a stock or non upgradable alt. you just use em regardless. ditch the lead acid if your using this big of a pack. your car will even crank faster :P even a big old 85 ford like mine
I don't know when, and where, some people got the "HUGE" misinformation, about an amplifier clipping, just because of voltage drop=🤦😒 If your amplifier pull's 350 amp's, with a given load/impedance, and is 80% eff., @ that load/impedance, it will make more, or less wattage, depending on the actual voltage present, @ that 350 amp draw. Example #1: 350 Amp's x 14.4 volt's= (not @ rest, but when a 350 Amp draw is present= very hard to accomplish) x 80% eff.= the power produced= 4,032 watt's @ clipping. Example #2: Same amp, 350 Amp's x 12.0 volt's= (@ 350 amp draw= cause of a lesser electrical system) x 80% eff. = the power produced= 3,360 watt's @ clipping. Same exact amplifier, but two different electrical system's, with the exact same load/impedance, with the exact same amplifier eff.. The amplifier does not clip sooner, or because of more voltage drop, it just make's less power, because it's getting less power. Also this same amplifier, will not run cooler @ clipping, with the higher voltage present, again it will just make more power, because it's getting more power! If "ANYONE" want's "ANY" amplifier to run cooler, or be cleaner= Lower THD, and higher Damping factor, ( 1st assuming ALL setting's are correctly set). Then just run a 1 ohm stable amp, @ 2 ohm's, or 4 ohm's, or a 4 ch. amp that's 2 ohm's stable, @ 4 ohm's, or 8 ohm's, and always have a way to monitor clipping, so you can turn it down when the amp clip's. "ANY" amplifier, with "ANY" amount of impedance, with "ANY" electrical system, can clip! Last mind blowing fact, "ANY" amplifier, that is making more power, with higher voltage, @ the same eff., will get hotter faster, and will have a higher overall temperature, because it is making more power!
Hate to say it bro but I bet ya that agm is actually consuming amperage rather than offering up any, im wondering if the power supply straight to ultracap without the agm would be cleaner power and more of it 🤔
DC current flows OUT through the negative side, NOT the positive side. Popular misconception. Even I believed the opposite until I took electronics classes in college. So double check your clamp arrow direction to show incoming flow on the positive cable, not outbound flow.
I'm simply following the manufacturer's specifications. And this clamp meter can actually measure both negative and positive; they both have directional arrows.
@@BudgetBassHead cool man, just throwing that out there because most people believe it flows out through the negative. I actually thought my instructor was losing his mind when he told me that. I looked it up in four different places to verify. Lol. Have a great day! Great videos by the way.
I don't believe the manufacturer is referring to electron flow. Why would they use that? Makes no sense. I'm sure they meant the conventional way power flows which is positive to negative. Personally, all my ammeters did not care which direction they were mounted. I tend to only measure the power wire though.
Have you tried turning up the voltage on that converter. Does it have the option? It would be neat to see if the voltage ends up higher when under load and how much amperage. The cap should handle it, not sure about the batteries.
So would a 260 amp alt(200 at idle) 3 agms, one of them being an xs3400 in the rear next to the amp be sufficient for a taramps smart 3 bass? I have a ioxus uc-31 on the way and plan to install. Would it help with voltage drop? I also have 6 xs power super caps, the 2.7v 3000 farad cells, but am reluctant to install, until I can figure out a safer secure way to mount. But if the uc-31 is enough, I’ll sell them.
Ok, am totally confused as to what you trying to achieve in your car, First you put a 15 inch subwoofer peerless by tymphany stw-350f and took it out saying you want to save your car as it'll rattle it to bits, than you put 2 12 and two amps but still complaining about not enough power due to impedance rise, ( that's why people put amplifiers two to three times the power of the woofer to combat that ) THAN you got an 8000 watts amplifier/ high output alternator / high density and output battery and everything in between, so what's the plan ??? Is the bass addition taking over common sense?🤣 And what's happening with the peerless stw-350f ? Many thanks for sharing
It would replace the battery since it is a battery. You can still run the ultracap (assuming you have one) as it would help. A lot of times the lithium battery may be all that's needed.
Great info man. Hey question for you, In your opinion with box rise and all, would I benefit running my 2 12s dual 4 at a 4ohm final impedence or 1ohm final impedence, I know at 1ohm would cost alot less and all but wouldn't I benefit if I could still give my woofer the same rms at a 4ohm load with a huge amp as long as my elec is on par......
If you can afford to run the same wattage at a higher Impedance then you will have much better cone control, (dampening factor(Attack and Decay)) cooler amps, and better efficiency (majority of amps are most efficient at 4ohms) . Downsides are, larger physical size of amps, possibly higher Idle current draw, and COST it’s going to be more expensive than people are willing to pay for. My advice unless you rich or a (super SQ junkie) just buy more amp than you need at 1 ohm so you are never near the clipping point and run the biggest/shortest wires to your subs.
Look what it did here. It took a 230A load from the amp and only drew 90A from the battery. If you drew the 230A from the battery the voltage would be dipping lower and your lights dimming. So for short bursts or actual music it can help a lot. It would probably run out of juice on a 30 second spl competition and need to draw more power from the battery/alt. So it can definitely be beneficial on a fairly high power system.
man all you actually needed is an amplifier with a regulated power supply in it . also i must say in classic home systems transformers are allowed to drop 5% voltage and even those freak audiophile guys are ok with this much of drop . so nice video but really all you need is a regulated amplifier .
Bro is a American Bass HD 15inch 2,000 rms a good subwoofer nowadays against companies like Sundown Audio, Skar or any newer companies. I guess I’m asking does it matter or should I go to newer brands?
American bass has been around for over 30 years they make great products; as do most companies. What you have to do is know what category of subwoofer you're looking for. are you looking for an SQL subwoofer, are you looking for an SPL subwoofer, or do you want to balance in between them both?
@@BudgetBassHead yes I build batteries for my own use I'm not a pro but my problem with using lithium in 12v world is you can only use them at half their range if you understand what I'm saying 3 cell is 12.6v and 4 cell 16.8v above 16 will damage your amps and car then if you drop below 13.2v I believe that will damage lithium and if you still have any type of AGM or lead acid they rest at lower than that so really it's something I haven't been able to defeat
@@BudgetBassHead my question was referring to how many watts in your opinion before going to lithium I'm at 5k a true 5k on 2 alternators 2 xs AGMs and my voltage still hates me if my single 15 hits hard enough my voltage drop goes to 12.8 so I ordered one of those ultra caps you tested I hope this stops that surge cause after it hits and alternators catch up it spikes to 15.8v crazy stuff I have 2 zero gauge welding wires to my amp and battery and 1 zero going back to my battery on negative side guess I need another negative to both batteries
@Rolling_Thunder Headway 38120 HP cells have a nominal voltage of 3.2 v. They charge fully to 3.65v. four of these in series @3.6v will give you 14.4 volts.
HelIo everyone, I have two of these coming in the mail tomorrow just wanted to know if i can hook two of these ultracapacitors in parallel with my 4 xs power 5100r batteries and do i have to safely charge this thing with a light bulb resistor or can i just hook it up in the car and it charges up really
The UC31 was designed to be run in parallels with automotive batteries. No need for traditional capacitor charging; its all handled by the internals. I personally don't see a problem with running multiple in series. It's still a 12 volt system. But I guess its best to contact the manufacture for clarity.
This channel is so well put together. His teaching style is fantastic! I love how he’s willing to step back and let us know when he wasn’t correct about something. You can tell he genuinely wants to teach what he knows to help us. Great job brother 🤘🏽
Those who watch your channel and know the purpose know the truth mistakes are made men fix their mistakes much respect
I STUMBLED RANDOMLY ON YOUR VIDEO ON RECOMMENDED ABOUT MONTH AGO...I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR CHANNEL!! VERY INFORMATIVE!!
On a side note...with all the BASS Testing in the house...your wife is cool with all the BOOM BOOM 💥 from those subwoofer she hears constantly from Testing ?! 😆
I guess you can call me Lucky 😉
@@BudgetBassHead what wire is that I use Wire and supply 2/0 welding cable
@@moneycat3789 The power wire from the battery to amp is 2 runs of 4ga ofc from KnuKonceptz. Its slightly oversized. I have the same. Its got a 6.5mm core diameter which the AWG classifies as 2ga. Its hefty stuff.
Some of us know more than other's yet I am still learning. Thanks courage to admit your mistakes. My respect's, keep up the good work.
👍
My stock alternator is 180 amps. My car has 5 heated seats. Without the seat heaters, headlights, and ac/heat i can easily have 91 amps in reserve from the alternator.
Thanks for showing this vid. I did not realize that the amperage draw would be different between the main batteries and the caps. Always learn something new, and I know quite a bit. Keep the vids coming bro.
I believe the Ultracap can supply that additional power for a short time before it has to draw higher current from the upstream components. He only did maybe 2 seconds at a time. With music the cap can smooth out the higher surges. If your music is really bass heavy with long notes, etc... its going to draw much more than the 90A in the video. Remember that the amp was drawing 230A.
Most informational video I’ve seen on how these things all work together. Really helped me on making an informed decision on what to buy and why. I appreciate it.
Those power supplies are really only rated to put out 80% of thier power, so that's pretty much spot on. Thanks for the tests bubby. Looking forward to more tests on those headways.
You're welcome
Misunderstanding is all,no big deal. Takes a real man to admit when hes wrong. Take note and learn from this man right here
💯👍
commenting beforehand, the voltage is going to be the same where ever you measure, minus the voltage drop of the wires between the units. Now the wires are heavy gauge wires so the drop will be minimal. With that said, i think you are very dedicated and even at 300 subs you had a giveaway and that's dedication. You have a great setup here
atleast now i know the super caps going to do what i want it to do, If the battery is only pushing 90 amps, And overall its doing 200+ to the amp, that capacitor banks doing work. this is exactly what i need for my sq setup in my bedroom. im using 3 ovp bypassed server computers that do 64 amps each. and the power draw of a 1200.4 and a 2000.1 amp Makes them trip from surge. im hoping that adding a ioxus cap will get rid of that power trip i keep getting . this basically verifies what i need .thanks for your very informative video.
Great teaching! .things I had no idea how to do I learned from watching this channel keep it up !!!
Whichever has the higher voltage and most capacity will carry everything else. And balancing in parallel works best when charging at an amp or two. Lifepo4 has a really flat discharge curve. Every cell can be at 3.3v and be charged higher or lower. I love experiments like these. It's how we learn brotha!
36:13 he meant after market ALTERNATOR guys (not after market amplifier) Great video!! Am loving these tests! 👍🏻
Thanks for clearing that up😉
I'm subscribing I like you and you know Sooooo much. I love the channel bro keep it going
Thanks for the support
Dude....you disappeared for a month now..😕... still waiting in anticipation for your next video to drop 😢 Hope everything A ok over there 🙏
Thanks for the concern
you are an expert, your not guessing, i am listening...great job
Thanks for the support.
Am-pere.
i thought Id learn something new. I didnt. All i learnt was confirmation of my basic logic. If your car requires 100amps from your stock alternator and you install something new that draws an additional 100 amps then logic dictates you need a higher output alternator. Putting extra batteries or capacitors is pointless unless you want to play music without the alternator running.
Most people want to listen to their music with their gear at 100% of its rated power and they keep getting half arsed answers from people in the industry. Your video just proved with evidence that the key is the alternator.
Batteries and capacitors are for when you want to listen to your music without the car running which is stupid.
The Ford P47 Crown Victoria police interceptors comes with a 200a up to 240a alternator stock...as well as the emergency vehicles.
Thanks for sharing
ahhhhhhhhh i cant wait for the headway ampere test. just bought a pack myself and plan to upgrade to the md 8k later down the road... same as you rn :)
Great video mate hugely informative and well put together. You have allot of knowledge cheers for sharing 👍
Sound like STEVE HARVEY hear and there.. Good info bro
Great video man what a amazing way to put these very important subjects into perspective
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great guy right here.
Thanks for tuning in.✌
Oh them 38120's.. you're going to shit a brick man straight up. Gonna be fun watching your reactions lol lol
Very educational for any man! Thanks
I love how you explain this knowledge
Thanks for watching
“This community for enough misinformation” ain’t that the truth. I’ve been wrong a gang of times too. Us DIY guys are trying to find some solid answers but honestly I don’t think they’re are too many rock solid truths in car audio. I guess maybe if you had very expensive measuring tools. I wish you were closer so I could throw your spl meter and that SMD impedance tool on my system. I’ll design a box for you in exchange if you’re not up on WIN ISD. Is the spl labs meter the cheapest meter that measures low frequencies? Thanks bro
great video man. do i need the ultra cap if ive got 350 amp alternator ?
Good video bro. One thing I just noticed is that you said the headway is rated for 200 amps continuous but you have a 64ah bank of them. Which is basically 8 banks of 4 cells. Each bank of 4 cells is capable of a 200amp draw. With 8 banks that's 1600 amps of current at the max discharge rate which is capable of powering two of those MD 8000.1 also invest in cell voltage balancer for the lithiums bro. You'll extend your batteries life span and make sure everything is charging evenly
Coming in the next video😉
What your mixing up is that when cells are wired in parallel the amps add up. When wired in series the amps stay the same. Remember that watts/power is amps times voltage. So if each bank of 4 cells is rated at 200A, then 7 more banks of the same in series is still 200A, but the voltage is higher. You would only get 1600A if you wired all 32 cells in parallel, but the voltage would be way too low. I hope that clears it up.
I just looked up this battery module. They say each individual cell can do 200A. So 4 in parallel would be 800A and then 8 banks of 4 in series is 24v 800A. For a 12v application you want to wire them as 4 banks of 8 or 4S8P. That would be 12v 1600A. Maybe that is what you meant?
I got 475 AH of AGM on a stock alternator
I can do 500 amps of current peaks on music and stay above 12 volts, it’s pretty crazy how loud you can get on stock alt. never blown a amp or subwoofer but I do not let anything clip including the RCA signal
...smart man. 👍
How you think you get stupid loud??? Light clipping isn't bad cuz thats when u get stupid loud
@@schons77iceman lol, I tune my system right it does over 150 dB on music and it sounds great when I clip the sound quality sounds like shit
@@schons77iceman clipping doesn't make anything louder
@beardedforlife if your not clipping a little then your not turning it up far enough so yes light clipping does make it louder
Oh man I see we share 2 Hobbies. CAR AUDIO & RC'S 😁😁🤜🏼🤛🏾. I've been thinking about getting that Goofy 64 Impala that Redcat came out with and making a mini audio system for 🔊😎.
Go for it!
Dang I need that but I went to the description and it said 450 I might let the shop tune it, I have the one meter to set the gain it was like 30 bucks. Hopefully they don’t tax if I go to the sound shop I’ll pay for the quick labor
How do you hook up the ultra cat to the other battery
You prob already know this but can run convertors in parallel adds more amp output, im tryin get away with a couple convertors and power caps do away with a battery
Where you at bro? Will there be more videos? We need you outchere!!!
I also have a Beast Module. I set it up as two 12v with 16 cells each.
Fyi..the BM is not 200amp continuous..that the rating of each individual Headway cell.
👌
My guy, where you at? It's been 6 months since you made a video.
No 2v on those lifepo4 cells. 3v at minimum each. thats ALL of the capacity. You dont use these only if you have a stock or non upgradable alt. you just use em regardless. ditch the lead acid if your using this big of a pack. your car will even crank faster :P even a big old 85 ford like mine
Agreed.
What setting you have on your powermax. Charging or fixed mode
Taramps are good for the money but would you say that the smart 5 is the same as getting a Taramps MD 8k?
I've never owned the Smart5 but the Smart3 was very powerful for such a small footprint.
Smart 5k is a better amp period not even close.
the reason I ALWAYS have a toggle switch on my amp.. I cut it OFF when I'm not using it.. OFF!!!..
Removing power from the remote wire does the same thing. There is no parasitic draw from the amp.
I got the arma outcast
Great information sir. May I ask what power supply/ battery charger your using?
PowerMax 120
I don't know when, and where, some people got the "HUGE" misinformation, about an amplifier clipping, just because of voltage drop=🤦😒 If your amplifier pull's 350 amp's, with a given load/impedance, and is 80% eff., @ that load/impedance, it will make more, or less wattage, depending on the actual voltage present, @ that 350 amp draw. Example #1: 350 Amp's x 14.4 volt's= (not @ rest, but when a 350 Amp draw is present= very hard to accomplish) x 80% eff.= the power produced= 4,032 watt's @ clipping. Example #2: Same amp, 350 Amp's x 12.0 volt's= (@ 350 amp draw= cause of a lesser electrical system) x 80% eff. = the power produced= 3,360 watt's @ clipping. Same exact amplifier, but two different electrical system's, with the exact same load/impedance, with the exact same amplifier eff.. The amplifier does not clip sooner, or because of more voltage drop, it just make's less power, because it's getting less power. Also this same amplifier, will not run cooler @ clipping, with the higher voltage present, again it will just make more power, because it's getting more power! If "ANYONE" want's "ANY" amplifier to run cooler, or be cleaner= Lower THD, and higher Damping factor, ( 1st assuming ALL setting's are correctly set). Then just run a 1 ohm stable amp, @ 2 ohm's, or 4 ohm's, or a 4 ch. amp that's 2 ohm's stable, @ 4 ohm's, or 8 ohm's, and always have a way to monitor clipping, so you can turn it down when the amp clip's. "ANY" amplifier, with "ANY" amount of impedance, with "ANY" electrical system, can clip! Last mind blowing fact, "ANY" amplifier, that is making more power, with higher voltage, @ the same eff., will get hotter faster, and will have a higher overall temperature, because it is making more power!
Wya fam? Hope all is well hope to see you soon!
Hate to say it bro but I bet ya that agm is actually consuming amperage rather than offering up any, im wondering if the power supply straight to ultracap without the agm would be cleaner power and more of it 🤔
DC current flows OUT through the negative side, NOT the positive side. Popular misconception. Even I believed the opposite until I took electronics classes in college. So double check your clamp arrow direction to show incoming flow on the positive cable, not outbound flow.
I'm simply following the manufacturer's specifications. And this clamp meter can actually measure both negative and positive; they both have directional arrows.
@@BudgetBassHead cool man, just throwing that out there because most people believe it flows out through the negative. I actually thought my instructor was losing his mind when he told me that. I looked it up in four different places to verify. Lol. Have a great day! Great videos by the way.
Yep. Electron flow goes from negative-> positive
I don't believe the manufacturer is referring to electron flow. Why would they use that? Makes no sense. I'm sure they meant the conventional way power flows which is positive to negative. Personally, all my ammeters did not care which direction they were mounted. I tend to only measure the power wire though.
Where did you go??????
Have you tried turning up the voltage on that converter. Does it have the option? It would be neat to see if the voltage ends up higher when under load and how much amperage. The cap should handle it, not sure about the batteries.
It goes up to 16.5 volts
can i use a cap with the ultra capacitor? i have the ioxus 31 and a 5 farad stinger cap that i like could i use them together on my system?
That stinger cap is pretty much useless
So would a 260 amp alt(200 at idle) 3 agms, one of them being an xs3400 in the rear next to the amp be sufficient for a taramps smart 3 bass? I have a ioxus uc-31 on the way and plan to install. Would it help with voltage drop? I also have 6 xs power super caps, the 2.7v 3000 farad cells, but am reluctant to install, until I can figure out a safer secure way to mount. But if the uc-31 is enough, I’ll sell them.
That should be more than enough
Ok, am totally confused as to what you trying to achieve in your car,
First you put a 15 inch subwoofer peerless by tymphany stw-350f and took it out saying you want to save your car as it'll rattle it to bits, than you put 2 12 and two amps but still complaining about not enough power due to impedance rise, ( that's why people put amplifiers two to three times the power of the woofer to combat that )
THAN you got an 8000 watts amplifier/ high output alternator / high density and output battery and everything in between, so what's the plan ??? Is the bass addition taking over common sense?🤣
And what's happening with the peerless stw-350f ?
Many thanks for sharing
Maybe be a noob question but in that system the lithium would take the place of the ultra cap correct?
It would replace the battery since it is a battery. You can still run the ultracap (assuming you have one) as it would help. A lot of times the lithium battery may be all that's needed.
Ok I understand he
Hey man are you ok. I miss the videos
Great info man. Hey question for you, In your opinion with box rise and all, would I benefit running my 2 12s dual 4 at a 4ohm final impedence or 1ohm final impedence, I know at 1ohm would cost alot less and all but wouldn't I benefit if I could still give my woofer the same rms at a 4ohm load with a huge amp as long as my elec is on par......
What ever load is giving you the results you want... stick with that. If you are rising too much, then get more power.
My thoughts exactly, when in doubt max it out!!!!!!!
If you can afford to run the same wattage at a higher Impedance then you will have much better cone control, (dampening factor(Attack and Decay)) cooler amps, and better efficiency (majority of amps are most efficient at 4ohms) . Downsides are, larger physical size of amps, possibly higher Idle current draw, and COST it’s going to be more expensive than people are willing to pay for. My advice unless you rich or a (super SQ junkie) just buy more amp than you need at 1 ohm so you are never near the clipping point and run the biggest/shortest wires to your subs.
@@everythingbox ya I had enough second guessing myself. So I went all in and bought th RF T2500bdcp
Where are you bro I miss your videos
Which Sub do you think is better 12" SDR or, 12" SVR?
Dance SVR can handle a bit more; the SDR is more musical to me
So....is the ioxus cap good or not?
Look what it did here. It took a 230A load from the amp and only drew 90A from the battery. If you drew the 230A from the battery the voltage would be dipping lower and your lights dimming. So for short bursts or actual music it can help a lot. It would probably run out of juice on a 30 second spl competition and need to draw more power from the battery/alt. So it can definitely be beneficial on a fairly high power system.
Can we start doing AMPS NOW PLEASE
Plenty of channels do amps. I like learning real info.
man all you actually needed is an amplifier with a regulated power supply in it . also i must say in classic home systems transformers are allowed to drop 5% voltage and even those freak audiophile guys are ok with this much of drop . so nice video but really all you need is a regulated amplifier .
Bro is a American Bass HD 15inch 2,000 rms a good subwoofer nowadays against companies like Sundown Audio, Skar or any newer companies. I guess I’m asking does it matter or should I go to newer brands?
Thats a good sub bro.. American bass been around for years for a reason..
@@phenomfacemob1011 you think 🤔 it hits the lows? Maybe the VFL comp Signature series
@@BornToCreateContent American bass sub's can do it all bro
American bass has been around for over 30 years they make great products; as do most companies. What you have to do is know what category of subwoofer you're looking for. are you looking for an SQL subwoofer, are you looking for an SPL subwoofer, or do you want to balance in between them both?
@@BudgetBassHead mostly SPL because I want it to be Loud.
U ok man? Been waitin on new videos but nothing....
Down4sound LTO-6.0 with charger 🤔🤔🤔
At what point is a lithium bank necessary?
Lithium is better than Lead Acid in nearly every way. Most notable factor being discharge curve and usable capacity.
@@BudgetBassHead yes I build batteries for my own use I'm not a pro but my problem with using lithium in 12v world is you can only use them at half their range if you understand what I'm saying 3 cell is 12.6v and 4 cell 16.8v above 16 will damage your amps and car then if you drop below 13.2v I believe that will damage lithium and if you still have any type of AGM or lead acid they rest at lower than that so really it's something I haven't been able to defeat
@@BudgetBassHead my question was referring to how many watts in your opinion before going to lithium I'm at 5k a true 5k on 2 alternators 2 xs AGMs and my voltage still hates me if my single 15 hits hard enough my voltage drop goes to 12.8 so I ordered one of those ultra caps you tested I hope this stops that surge cause after it hits and alternators catch up it spikes to 15.8v crazy stuff I have 2 zero gauge welding wires to my amp and battery and 1 zero going back to my battery on negative side guess I need another negative to both batteries
@Rolling_Thunder Headway 38120 HP cells have a nominal voltage of 3.2 v. They charge fully to 3.65v. four of these in series @3.6v will give you 14.4 volts.
All wire sizes should be the same throughout your build. If not, the electricity can only flow as fast as the smallest wired path.
Are you ok? You haven't posted a vid in months
HelIo everyone, I have two of these coming in the mail tomorrow just wanted to know if i can hook two of these ultracapacitors in parallel with my 4 xs power 5100r batteries and do i have to safely charge this thing with a light bulb resistor or can i just hook it up in the car and it charges up really
I let my 12,000 watt taramps spark, I tried with the light bulb thing and didn’t work
The UC31 was designed to be run in parallels with automotive batteries. No need for traditional capacitor charging; its all handled by the internals. I personally don't see a problem with running multiple in series. It's still a 12 volt system. But I guess its best to contact the manufacture for clarity.
1200 in burst
Huh?
Like what your doing but you repeat what's going on over n over its video if someone missed it they can rewind. Really I like what your doing but 😅
Calculate your trunk volume and shrink your trunk port you'll get better output
Your welcome
Is that related to the video?
First
Thanks for clicking👍