You also have to remember that these are budget amps. Even the samples given to bench testers are showing that they are crazy inefficient with power draw! They produce awesome numbers, but they do it on roughly 20 to 30 percent more power consumption than higher quality (much more expensive) amps. Two of them are going to produce insane power but require a far more capable electrical system to meet their demand
Leave the agm in and add the cap..the reserve will come from the agm and the burst will come from the cap...the alt will supply both and youll be happy
I'm running two xs AGM batteries my voltage drop is going from 14.9 -12.6 and I won't let it drop further before turning it down I called xs they said to run double what power wires I have going to my 2nd battery back to the front it on the ground side did that and it kept it from going below13.4 I'm adding this ultra cap as soon as it gets here do I need to run its own power wire to the front or off my 2nd battery be ok?
Part of the issue is you measured voltage drop across a circuit in the back rather than voltage at the capacitor. That’s why you saw such a drop in the back of the car and not the front. Check your ground source in the rear of the car. Also Newer cars often do not have the ability to carry large amounts of current through the unibody due to large usage of adhesives rather than welding when manufacturing the vehicles. Running a direct ground wire to the front of vehicle to an factory ground location can help. The reason I know this is because many modern cars run into electrical issues when trying to relocate a battery from the front of the car to the rear and they try to slip running a true ground wire back to the front of the vehicle.
Wow this helped Mee out so much !!!!! In understanding I have a 2012 Kia optima factory alternator d35 yellow top upfront nd a 4f cap when they check up front the voltage is above 12 nd thee guy checking alternator for me says it's good it's charging well but in the back the cap in dropping down to the 11s I wanna add another battery or the ultra cap or bigger alternator... There's so many diff options I dnt know what to do first.... This video helped a lot nd the response about ground. I dnt like where the shop grounded my audio pipe 20001d on a 800w RMS 3000w peak 10" pioneer 1ohm
Man I purchased one of these for my system from big jeff audio and man I can literally feel the difference it made my subs come alive I'm running a CXA 1800.1 on two Q-class L7 12's and they would hit pretty good before but I could literally go full tilt on my head unit and barely see vibration in my side mirrors I added this and I can't go past 3/4 on my radio or bass knob and I am slamming this was literally the best purchase I have made so far for my system it made me so happy and I could actually feel the difference in the SPL lvl so much that I have already ordered a 74AH jag35 lithium battery to go with it for a hybrid super capacitor setup that I'm told works really well together and will give me a lot more power than the lead acid/Super cap setup I'm currently running great video and good recommendation this thing has excellent power delivery for your system and the price is excellent I got mine in hand for next to nothing with financing I literally won't even notice the payment
Hope you didn't pay full price. Those were recalled. There's a possibility of it's circuitry going out causing it to drain your battery and catch fire. I wouldn't put one in my car. Guy I know bought one and it didn't catch fire but it drained his car battery. You can buy these b-stock for $100 now for that reason. No way I'd put one in my car.
@@Hertzsogood219 I used it for quite a while and never had any problems with it I still have it in my spare bedroom but that was months ago I'm running a 29AH SCIB bank from NORTHWEST LITHIUM now 2.9AH M5 pedestal cells rated at 75c Best on the market check out the videos I'm posting on the weekends of the build im still learning and trying to build the channel and learn from more experienced people through comments check it out if you get a chance got a whole brand new setup since I posted this comment
batteries and alternators are voltage sources, caps are rectifiers and shouldn't be used in place of a source. Gotta get the current u need from alternator and batteries then add the ultracaps to rectify fluxuations is voltage
So are you saying that the amp or amps should be feeding directly from the batteries and the cap should go in between the alt and amp as like a buffer between the alt and battery I'm just wondering because I purchased one of these myself and a lithium battery to go with it and I have installed the ultra cap and I love it my subs hit so much harder I didn't realize how underpowered they were with my stock alternator but now I am unsure if the battery or cap should be feeding directly into the amp a few have told me let the alternator feed the battery and the battery supply the cap I was told it's a hybrid type setup with the lithium and super cap together and that they work really well together Im just learning all this stuff though so advice on the placement of the lithium and cap would be appreciated
Eh what? Voltage sources? They are sources for electrons, supercaps are electron storage devices for short bursts if your. Woof heavy music has lulls technically a supercap would work fine, personally, I think subs for music are silly though so what do I know? I'm only here to see what an IOXUS looks like so thanks for the video 🙂
I was going to comment about getting yourself a higher output alternator, but I'm glad I waited for the video to finish. How come you didn't run 1/0 gauge when you did your big three? I can't see where your grounds are in the back, but hopefully you're attached to the frame, or a seat bolt. Are your power and ground OFC cable? If it's CCA, it won't have the same current capacity for the same gauge as OFC. I'm really impressed with your improved video production value. You're on your way, bruh. Keep up the good work.
Once that alt goes in you’ll be fine. I did two batteries in the back one for each sub and the alternator from singer. I didn’t need the capacitor. But you will be pleasantly pleased when then alternator drops in. 😎😎
Im not a pro like you. But from my research and experience. Add that to the second battery in back instead of replacing it might do a world of difference. That being said the alternator will change your systems electrical just make sure your running at least 1/0 the whole way around as well as doing the big 4 upgrade. Again this is from my experience. Keep up the great videos
I was really hoping the capacitor would have fix the voltage drop.. I have gone as far as having 3 , 110 amp AGM batteries . 1up front & 2 in the rear, plus I upgraded my alternator from a 80amp to a 160amp .. I'll be following your trial's & errors on your electrical upgrade. No other RUclips channel talks in detail on how to like yours and it's extremely helpful to me , a DIY builder. Thank you for your videos . I pretty much have the same setup as yours.
I'm sure you already know this Budget Basshead, but for those who may not: things needed when big power amplifiers are used: 1.) Big 3 power/ground cable upgrade 2.) H.O. alternator 3.) Secondary battery dedicated to audio system 4.) Current isolator relay
@@fasin8me1 i added one, I never listen with car off. Because the amp draws a lot of power when it hits the lows, personally I like the thought of having good batteries so when the amp needs the power, I have a reserve of power to pull from
Caps in my opinion aren't good for long bass notes.. more for instant recharge. never used them, just and more agms or lithium... I have a mechman 370 and I love it... huge improvement.. u will see
If the voltage on the battery stays strong, even though the voltage on the cap drops, that means it's doing what it's supposed to. The cap isn't the true power source. It's just between the amp and the true power source, and if the true power source was showing a voltage drop and it's not doing it anymore, good job, capacitor. You mentioned that it sounds better and the bass hits harder, so it must be working. Especially if you had some dimming before and you don't anymore. But I have always just gone ahead and upgraded wires, alternator, and added a second battery and a cap if I am installing a bass amplifier. Just to go ahead and eliminate the probability of electrical issues so I don't have to figure out which one I need. Plus on my first installation decades ago I added a second battery, upgraded wires, and a HO alternator, and still had dimming. Since then, I just do the wires, alternator, second battery, and cap and get it over with, because I know I will need it all anyway.
So the thing is, your amps are full of caps that need to constantly recharge as they expel their current with each note. Putting a super capacitor back there really just adds another load that the alternator needs to contend with so yeah…it’s allot like adding an additional amp really. It will help stiffen up the current supply as it can discharge faster than an agm battery, but it’s not a support mechanism for the alternator, it’s a drain…so if you’re adding a massive capacitor in, you’re gonna wanna make sure you have a good strong alternator for sure, if you’re not changing out your alternator, you’re better off just adding an agm battery back there & calling it a day
For you to keep your voltage up, you must know how much current your system is pulling, and how much resistance you have. Runs of power is also a factor. If you don't have a strong source in the rear, you must have it up front somewhere, somehow. That's when runs of cable is important. Don't use CCA!!!!! Use OFC!!!!! It takes 3 times if not more runs of CCA to equal 1 run of OFC. 1 or 2/0 of 4 or 0ga OFC is needed. Solid grounds, If not, runs of fresh grounds, being new cars are using weaker metals for weight and cost, which aren't great conductors, like Ford trucks that need grounds ran from the battery to your audio setup direct. Caps are good for burps, and recovery. If you want daily, batteries are the go too, with a high amperage alternator, or 2 depending on how much amperage can be supplied with the car you possess. Some cases, you need to do a step-down converter to keep your car safe. I did my best to keep it short, but it's still is a long comment. It's a lot but like the saying goes, to make power, you must supply power!!!!!
Telling you bro, even as good as it is without the second batt, the cap bank AND 2 AGM's will be even more consistent. I've now got 2 runs of 0 gauge ofc straight from the alt to the batt and cap, only time I can get it down below 14 is when I'm mad clipping and idling. none the less, mo power is mo better baby.
run a dedicated ground from either your alt case or battery negative ( if you don't already ) and i bet it'll help. if you do this, try not to ground anywhere other then said wire or you might run into noise issues.
The Ultra Capacitor is not meant for audio. This is my personal opinion. It caused my speakers to hum. Drove me crazy, rewiring the entire system before I realized it was the ultracapacitor. Replaced with my previous capacitor and my radio is back to normal. Basically $200 wasted. Sitting in my shed useless. I do know it allows utility vans and vehicles batteries to last longer.
Capacitors can most definitely be useful but nothing beats having enough lithium and charging amps stay in the high 14's. Ive used super capacitor banks before. I play alot of rebassed music with steady bass lines and without sufficient battery reserve my caps would drain and it wouldn't recharge until their was a break in the bass.
One thing i would recommend is comparing the charging voltage of the stock alt at idle vs 2k rpms. Some people dont realize that you have better charging from higher engine speeds. So if your stock alt puts out 80amps idle thats less then the 135amps it is rated for. Even with the different charge parameters put into the bcm of the car. The newer 320amp alt will give you more amps at idle over your stock alt but it also gives more at the higher engine speeds too. If you can try to run up the engine speed to around 2k and see how that compares to what you saw with the idling. Also try putting the agm battery under the hood as well. Keeping the ultra cap in the back should help out that much more.
You need to check how you have your subs wired inside the box. Make sure they are actually wired for 2 ohms or 4 ohms or whatever they are meant to be wired at. You can use the multimeter to check what each individual sub is running at. That happened to me before when the subs were wired to run at 1 ohm and the amp was rated at 2 ohms x 2 channels and they were actually running at .25 ohms and the voltage dropped like crazy.
Great video my guy ! A few things I may add with your voltage drop in the rear .. you might need bigger or better wire .. ofc or larger gauge - those audiopipes pull some juice - over 300a each .. 40-80a of lithium in the rear and that mechman and you’ll be out of the woods ...14v+ for days
may I get your advice, back into car audio after 15 years....do lithium batteries require charging every 2 days by an actual lithium battery charger or would my 300 amp alt charge them....sorry for the stupid question
@@terik555 nothing charges a battery better than a charger, but .. Normal use you can go forever without hooking up to a charger - but you could be losing some potential out of it If you are deep cycling the battery, then a full charge once a month would be more than you really would ever need The alt charges but never quite tops off like a lithium charger Is it that noticeable? Yes and no .. A good charge is never a bad thing 👊🏼
I've been using maxwell ultra caps and they made a world or difference in my wifes car I got the one off Amazon in the battery case I'm going to try in my car I just need a resistor to charge it last time I used Christmas lights.
I know this is old but I hope you added the other agm probably a lot better results since the capacitor isn’t a battery just a power booster and the extra amp hours would’ve been better
Capacitors are designed to charge and discharge quickly so that thing dropping fast is exactly what you would expect to do they don't hold very much power. It does stabilize your battery as you saw because as you said it is taking the brunt of the load. The more you can support the capacitors with current the faster they will bounce back. So once you get a alt, they will love all the extra input current. Also yes if you have more batteries you can always add them to the system. Capacitors play nice with everything. The capacitors actually don't care that they're low voltage The capacitor doesn't have a set voltage point It's like a container for energy so it can be at zero just fine The main thing is you can't try to overfill it, so too high a voltage is a issue, but your voltage is fine. Since this is a smart unit it would keep itself safe anyways, thats part of what you're paying for. Get your voltage monitor straight at your amp, that's where it matters. Anyway I hope this all helps!
I'd like to see how good it works with just 1 of your amps on both 12s. Lots of guys just run one amp that aren't into comps or crazy spl and I'm curious what it would do with a 2000 watt amp and maybe a 400 watt mid high amp,or just the sub amp.
Super old.. but if you really want caps to work at top performance you need a full lith battery that will discharge faster to the caps.. It all starts at the alt though.. from there the wires then the battery, then the secondary source of power batter, cap, headway etc.. then amp.. A lithium battery of same rating as an agm is actually about 2.5-3x stronger then the agm.. just cause of how much faster it charges and discharges.. Caps will help if you’re just slightly under total amp draw on an agm where the battery basically trickle charged them.. but when pulling 200amp off a 120amp alt you’re down about 200amp from your demands.. Many try the lithium as the secondary.. this is stupid unless you got a direct feed from the alt to it.. if it’s feeding off the regular agm then it’s still limited by the recharge rate of the agm.. Alt, then lithium then ultra cap or headway bank.. that’s the way to run with these power robbing inefficient amps and subs we have today. FYI to anyone with a trucks.. there is almost always a factory 220amp option in place of your 145-160alt.. you can usually get two of these and a dual bracket kit for less money then a single 320.. keep in mind also once you go above 280amp alt or so.. you become limited in engine rpm’s you can run or you’re over spinning the alternators.. most don’t like to go over 5k and as you go larger say 320, 400 etc you’re limited to 4500 even 4K engine rpm cause they rely on undersize pulleys to spin the coil faster at lower rpm’s.. For a daily if you got the space which most trucks do.. a dual 220 setup is the best way to go.. For most a single 220 with single lithium battery is all you need.. worst case add some headway or an ultra cap unit and you’ll be good to about 4500watts on music with normal driving.. If you demo then this won’t get you there lol.. myself in a daily I’d never go over 250amp alt.. better to run more then run higher power because of the over spin issues..
Wish there is more info for hybrid vehicles. I'm keeping my total wattage of my whole system under 2000w one kicker cs amp 800 w at 1 ohm on one 1 12 kicker r. And 360.4 cs amp for 4 6.5 ks 2 3.5 ks with built in crossovers
I agree with most comments. It's not a replacement. It works in conjunction with. One thing I'm curious of tho is what wire your using to go to the back. OFC. or CCA.
Run ground cable from the capacitor to grinded clean part of frame and on from the battery same thing and add another set of caps if it does not help and calculate your amp usage to balance with caps always leave room with a 50 to 200 amps of room and alternator upgrades if you need
I bought an ioxus ultra capacitor and recently had the same issue and strangely enough, I found that cleaning the front terminal and connectors increased and steadied my voltage at the back. Could it be as simple as this, I'm monitoring to find out.
Keep rear agm then add cap to it!! Then you will see difference!! Also check wire to rear make sure you have proper size! Maybe add another run!! Add more grounds can help as well!! Bigger alt is always good!! It is combined resources that you will need !!
What your reading at the back is what is being supplied to the amps so it does help over all but I still believe you would have benefit from a lithium phosphate more than from the super cap
you can notice a .7 voltage drop across a cap. have you run a positive and negative from the front battery to the back. the cap will charge 99% fast but that last 1% takes a lot of time. depending on the size of the cap it. you can look up the electronics formula for capacitor charge. the high amp alternator will give you more amps at a higher rpm. make sure you are getting more amps at idle with the upgraded alternator. who cares about the higher 300 amps at 2k rpms. the 200 amp alt may give you more at idle. they rewire the 3 coils inside the alternator to change its performance characteristics. they also upgrade a few internal parts like rectifier's and such. its about that idle current. do the math on your amplifiers output in amps at 12 volts. how many amps are you pulling? you need to try and cover that. of course it is a dynamic load so take that into account. you may peak at 300-600 amps? not sure your amplifiers ratings. but the extra agm battery and cap together should handle that peak. if your dropping under 12 volts you dont have enough supply.
that knob your using is that a gain knob or bass boost. if its a bass boost you may be hurting your score. a boost is much less efficient in increasing your average spl. it is also much harder on sub woofers and amplifier. you can play with that software and tuning more. the skars and sun downs are very inefficient but they handle abuse better. you should be past that age lol.
Its the bass control knob that came with the amplifier. I don't use bass boost and this knob is set to 100% during gain setting procedure. So I guess you can say its a gain control.
@@BudgetBassHead if that knob does control a bass boost here is what to try. what is the model of the amp. i will try and check. if its controlling bass that is changing the whole characteristics of your set up. but you should be able to have much better results with way more headroom. now start over setting your gains with NO BASS BOOST. take it up to the clipping point. then retest what your max SPL number is. i bet your new score beats it. when you use bass boost it boosts the frequency usually around 45 hertz. this limits your headroom on the amplifier and speaker to that set frequency. your missing out on the limit of all the other frequencies. your box tuning maybe very different than 45 hertz, so boosting that frequency specifically maybe limiting you. lets say you tuned your box to 36 hertz and your car peaks at 40 hertz. that 45 hertz boost isnt doing you any favors. i hope i explained that well enough. let me know.
@@666Necropsy his control knob is controlling gain not bass boost and if one was worried about it get the control knob that connects to the rca cables feeding the sub amp that's how alot of the heavy hitters do it
Great video. I currently run a single skar VXF 12 with a CRESCENDO AUDIO | SYMPHONY S1 PLUS | 2500w amp. I have a Diehard platinum AGM under hood and a XS Power D5100 in rear of a 2019 Camry. This car is a voltage nightmare with the smart alternator which never charges past 13.8. The only way to keep my voltage from dropping was to turn amp down to only output 2000w.
You need a "PCM Bypass" that Mechman sells (or did sell). I see them offered here and there. It allows the PCM to think that more current/voltage is necessary when the draw reaches a certain threshold so it doesnt limit your voltage to 13.8V
@@Raymo2u thanks for the advice, unfortunately I sold the car for a 2022 Highlander. People don’t realize that with before installing audio equipment into todays cars they need to understand all aspects of the charging system which I did not also. Your advice would have helped me out tremendously as I was chasing down why I could not achieve 14v. Again thanks
Old basshead reborn through my 15yo stepsons recently installed first system. That being said great videos man. Editing info and attention span kept. New sub.
I am facing the same dilemma with my system. I have a Mechman 400 amp alt and in addition to my stock battery, I have another AGM under the hood in my GMC Sierra. I have 2 JP 23v2s running a Resilient Sounds Platinum 18 each at 1 ohms. I get voltage drops down to the low 11's and high 10s if I push it. Huge drum kicks wit hrock music like Hoobastank's The Reason will drop it down fast, but it comes right back, so having a ultracap should help a bunch, but on long low drops like rebassed songs with sustained bass notes below 30 drop the voltage and it stays there. I don't know what do, other than maybe try lithium bank to keep the voltage up.
Im 9 months late to the party, but the fact that you have higher voltage in the front than you do in the back indicates an inadequate current path between front and back, either positive runs or ground path. If you're using a body ground that is most likely where the majority of the drop is.
As I'm sure you've learned caps are like your shocks, they just dampen out the highs and lows or with voltage the lows. A battery can't supply power quickly, a cap can't hold a lot of power so together you get the best of both, the cap steps up to the plate long enough for the batteries to do their job. And, I have no clue why I even watched this, I was looking for something totally didn't and don't even have a system in my ride.
As it was stated before I am sure you already got your answer. Sure AudioPipe may work for you, but over all that is one of those brands that exaggerate the power capabilities in the name of sacrificing clean power. Sure that amp will put out 2000 watts, but the signal when doing so is flat topped and distorted. First things first, I would check your amp draw from your front battery. Not the voltage. The Draw. Then compare that to the draw at the Amplifier. You also should factor in the use of CCA or OFC, and even if there is a frame ground near by. I would run a separate ground from the ultra cap to the frame. then hook it up like you would that AGM. Just because it has the power, you are still giving it the ability to loose efficiency by not providing the system with adequate grounds. Once you do that as well as your big 3 upgrade your voltage drop issue will be fixed. But again, I also recommend swapping amplifiers for more true rated equipment that is not exaggerated.
< - see the resting voltage - a sound system should be able to run at 100% with the engine off, FYI input voltage means Nothing if your amplifier can out puts more voltage ant the speaker can take - eg the week-link should always be your speaker. having enough CA (CCA) , in a low enough impedance "eg small cable run, large size" .., eg I think you need a bbb (bigger better battery) not an alternator..
@@BudgetBassHead I'm currently running 3-2400w and 2-750 watt amps, grounded to a bus bar and several direct leads back to alt,(3 runs 0 gauge OFC) batteries and several body to chassis to Alt mounting points... 300 amp alt, 3 runs 0 gauge(OFC) back to batteries to bus bar for amp power and 5 Viper VP2400 agm... seems the more grounds I added, the more stable the voltage. Super caps coming... Keep us informed
What I noticed with regular capacitors is that voltage does get stabilized but you loose bass output, that’s why I don’t care to use them. They diminish bass, no good.
similar to what i was having when I was running a fosegate 1200rms amp with a stock 110 amp alt tho mine was dropping to about 11. Killed a few amps like that tho. about a year ago I upgraded my alt did the big three and killed 2 amps one was the fosegate and the other was a sundown fullbridge 1500 my voltage was going all over the place. I then added a xs power d3400 in the trunk and well have had no issues at all voltage drop at idle isnt bad while driving its good.
The 10+ grounds on your 1 ground battery terminal is un necessary!!!! Atleast get a terminal block instead of 10 connections on 1😖 if those are your amp grounds they need to go!!!! Ground to chassis not paint either. They need to be short as possible and grounded at same location prefably to prevent ground looping which will cause system noise . Your battery should have only 1 to car body & 1 to engine block and make sure the metal surface is sanded to metal. Use Vaseline or terminal sprabtobprotect from rust and corrosion. It also helps with continuity.. Be sure to install the big 3 when you do the altinator cause factory wiring won't cut it at all. 😁😁👍👍
It'll be a night and day difference once you install that alternator ,you also need to read up on ampere's law you're simply pulling to many amps your stock alt can't keep up and will blow prematurely you don't need to do any wiring up grades if your already using OFC wire that wld be a waste of money I personally wld of put the money you spent on that ultra cap towards lithium I know those ultra caps aren't cheep But great video 👍🏽👊🏽✌🏽💯. #🔊🔊🔊
II got a Skv2-3500.1D on my 2 12 Evl box and I ran into the same issues. I snagged 2 200ah AGM batteries from Interstate Battery and I would still get the Voltage drop until I got a JS 240a Alternator...now my lowest voltage has been 12.6. Im hoping with a Supercap Ill stay above 13V. Get an 240a+ Alternator and you'll do just fine, I'd get rid of the Lead Battery and go with 2 AGMs or Lithium.
Your voltage will be lower closer to the amp.your draining the power wire or the battery.if the voltage up front gets low that's when your using way to much power.ho alt would help alot
Exocontralto shows a better example of this "cap" bank, even started the car with it. It also comes with a app that show state of charge and voltage. Second, did you say 141db @ "4000w" ?? I did that in a wagon with 1500w singer 18" no modifications to the car. Oem alternator, 1 agm battery up front. Your setup is great, but something not right. Last, Skar recommend 2cf3 per sub, that does not look like a 4cf3 inclosure.
Very nice video,If I was you,I would build my system around the amount of draw for your amps,if your amp draw 300 amps @1ohms,I would build my electrical around that concept,if it takes to have one 300 amp high output alternator and one cmaxx lithium battery,that's what I would do,That's just me.Good luck.
I just ordered a VXF-15 with the SKV2 1500.1d...I'm going to do a1/0 big three but I hope that's all I need... I don't want to do all this. It was running fine with the EVL 15 but it was a little less watts.
Car audio is more demanding than most think. Your automobile comes with just enough power to support your stock electronics. Adding thousands of Watts more, will need to be supported.
Well first off love the content. I have those amps myself. I’m kinda feeling like the are just really inefficient AF they put the power out but they suck more than others. Also the difference between the front and back voltage is that there is so much more resistance in the back. All the 1/0 wire and batteries and amps it’s causing a drop just from flowing through all that. I believe that just moving you front battery to the back and none up front will make a worlds of difference. It’s worth a shot. I did it and it helped I have a 2009 Saturn Aura with the same engine and a mechman 250 and 3 of the 2000.1 audiopipes I stay around 12.60-14.20
Cut the connections and solder some 1/0 or 4gauge to it and run that straight to the back. Some people just make distribution blocks where the battery use to be and do it that way. I personally like just moving the battery to the back but either way it’s helpful. Remember that if you have a battery close to you amps under 5’ you can use 4gauge for that size amp, so there are some benefits that way also
Before you change Alts, can you test to see how many amps and or watts you're pulling from the current electrical system? I had 2 of the AudioPipe Mini 2ks and I was pulling 4800+ out of them in total, metered at comps. I sold those and bought 2 of the Soundqubed 2250s. They don't pull as much power but they sound cleaner. I run a 250 amp Alt, Big 3, 2 Deka 110 AH Group 31s in the trunk and a normal Interstate battery under the hood. 3 runs of 0 gauge front to back.
@@BudgetBassHead thanks for the info. I ordered one of the b stock ones.. I've been trying to watch different videos about them. Some show that have to do the little light bulbs tricky when first connecting it but some say and manually says it don't have to.. What's was your experience?
What do you use to set your gains? And when setting your amp gain, where do you have your bass knob set? I ask because it seems your bass hits max before you get to half on the bass knob. Unless you just prefer it that way.
If he had 1 amp it would be fine with the ultra capacitor but since he has 2 amps it’s it’s more amperage needed than the alternator can supply plus he is at idle....driving is a different story since he will drive at a higher rpm producing more amperage to the amps he also has dual runs of wire already his alternator upgrade will give him lots of headroom.
I'm very very late to the party. I currently have 2 of these ioxus ultra capacitors in parallel for 750 farad and xs power d3400 up front 1/0 ofc big 4 and 4/0 welding cable to the back. Stock alt 105 amps pushing a stetsom 3k. Just bought a mechman 320 and deaf bonce 4000.1 to push my single Avatar SVL 1547D2. Do you think my setup will run that amp as is or is it mandatory for me to get a reserve? Thank you
This will help with starting the car, but not with pulls from amplifiers in the rear. which is why I placed the cap next to amp. Others say to reinstall the AGM to assist the cap. Sounds like got some more testing to do 😉
I’m trying to find out can you run more than 1 ioxus Ultra Capacitors?!? I bought 2 hoping to keep the voltage from hardly dropping at all any info will be greatly appreciated!!!
They work best with transient bass notes. They were originally designed to assist starting batteries in delivery trucks. And yes they can be wired in parallel.
I second what others have said about putting your AGM back into the mix. Do the Big 3 when you put in your alt and put some decent battery terminals on your battery under hood. The lines all going into that battery the way you have it is dangerous and you’ll get a better connection using proper separate terminals. Excellent video and serious props for your editing skills.
Ioxus Ultra Cap should be closest to the starter according to there instructions. Switch the battery and ultra cap bank. Meaning ultra cap bank up front and battery in the rear. I think this is how installation was intended per instructions. Hope this helps.
Yes this did help but if I were to redo this I would instead invest my money in lithium. Which I have done so and now I no longer need this ultra capacitor
@@BudgetBassHead thank you for the response bro. I can't afford lithium but bought this ultra cap used from a friend. I only drop down into the high 12s at full tilt so hopefully this will help me out. I appreciate the info.
There is some confusion in your video... There are multiple different types of batteries used in automotive. They are flooded wet cell (which is what you have shown in the video) You can have a deep cycle version of a flooded wet cell which just means it’s constructed with thicker plates and designed to be drawn down lower in charge without being damaged. Normal batteries are really just for cranking where is deep cycle batteries are for operating equipment and can support a larger current draw for longer. There are absorbed glass mat (AGM) which is a technology that has nothing to do with deep cycle, it has to do with the acid being absorbed into the material within the battery that it’s not just floating around in there. An AGM battery can be mounted upside down or right side up because it will never leak… They are sealed and maintenance free. They make AGM batteries in both normal and deep cycle profiles as well as a marine profile so like I was saying the fact that it’s an AGM battery does not mean that it’s deep cycle. They (AGM) require more strict charging systems and they’re not typically found in Automotive unless you pay more money for something like an Optima or an odyssey. Then you can also find lithium batteries nowadays both lithium iron phosphate and straight lithium which mainly both have the advantage of being lighter in weight. All of these battery topologies could potentially benefit from a capacitor right at the load source but it’s more important to have an adequate charging system first. On another note, as somebody who has had an electrical fire in a vehicle… you need to move that fire extinguisher into the passenger compartment of the vehicle. The best location is right to the left side of the driver seat so you can easily get to it as you’re trying to get out of the door. People are wholly unprepared for how fast an electrical fire happens. It’s not like a regular fire where you put some wood in a pile and light it with a lighter or a match in in a few minutes you have flames… When I had the electrical fire in my car in just five seconds the entire car was full of toxic smoke from all of the insulation melting off of the wiring and the next thing you know the entire underside of the hood was on fire. That all happened in a matter of 20 seconds from zero to fully involved. You don’t want to have to stick your hand into the area where there might be a fire in order to get to the fire extinguisher. Better yet leave that one in the trunk and get another one and put it in the passenger compartment. They’re not expensive.
10th generation Impala LTs comes stock with AGMs. The 4 Cylinder versions have 2 AGMs for stop & start tech. This 'is' a deep cycle battery. Optima Yellow Top 'Deep Cycle' was $300 with 72 Ah. This battery $200 with 70Ah. I follow the stats; not so much the labels. Thanks for the tip on the fire extinguisher. I'll be definitely following that piece of advice. 👍
Hey bro. One more question. Can I ground the negative on the super cap to the chassis or must I run a negative from the cap to my negative on battery? Thank you!
Every power source should have it's own ground. But some have daisy chained the grounds, post-to-post. Just make sure you have big enough wire to support the amperage draw; or you risk fire.
4000 watts on 2 4 gauge wires? Nah. Get your wire right first. 0 gauge ofc is something like 325- 375 amp so you need that at a bare minimum. 2 runs would be better. My 15 year old Rockford fosgate 100 farad cap could probably do those numbers. I have the 2000 watts audiopipeamp on 2 skar evl 12's with a 1600.4 amp from precision power in my vehicle and I have very little voltage drop . You are not runny 4000 watts on 4 gauge. You need the big 3 and the best ground available in the back Did you fix the problem btw
This sounds weird but try disconnecting/removing your front battery. I notice better voltage in the rear without a front battery, might work, might not, worth a shot tho I think.
@@BudgetBassHead I'm just saying the front battery is a choke point, removing it and having both batteries and caps in the rear would be better or run more power wire. Thanks for responding, I like your videos.
@@mishabuildz6380 oh I get what you're saying. yeah, some others had also suggested to reinstall the AGM alongside the capacitor. If the capacitor wasn't so large I would rather have it up front as a cranking unit and put the two agms in the rear. But I may just have to reinstall the AGM alongside the capacitor. thanks for the comment
It is doing exactly what it is supposed to do...You say yourself caps discharge very fast..and are not able to re-charge fast enough..for the next bass hit..With the power you're demanding you need a second battery with a bigger alt...
You also have to remember that these are budget amps. Even the samples given to bench testers are showing that they are crazy inefficient with power draw! They produce awesome numbers, but they do it on roughly 20 to 30 percent more power consumption than higher quality (much more expensive) amps. Two of them are going to produce insane power but require a far more capable electrical system to meet their demand
Leave the agm in and add the cap..the reserve will come from the agm and the burst will come from the cap...the alt will supply both and youll be happy
This seems to be the go-to advice. You guys are awesome.
@@BudgetBassHead its a community my man..i want you to succeed..
I'm running two xs AGM batteries my voltage drop is going from 14.9 -12.6 and I won't let it drop further before turning it down I called xs they said to run double what power wires I have going to my 2nd battery back to the front it on the ground side did that and it kept it from going below13.4 I'm adding this ultra cap as soon as it gets here do I need to run its own power wire to the front or off my 2nd battery be ok?
Part of the issue is you measured voltage drop across a circuit in the back rather than voltage at the capacitor. That’s why you saw such a drop in the back of the car and not the front. Check your ground source in the rear of the car. Also Newer cars often do not have the ability to carry large amounts of current through the unibody due to large usage of adhesives rather than welding when manufacturing the vehicles. Running a direct ground wire to the front of vehicle to an factory ground location can help.
The reason I know this is because many modern cars run into electrical issues when trying to relocate a battery from the front of the car to the rear and they try to slip running a true ground wire back to the front of the vehicle.
When about did the adhesives get common? so, basicly, what approximate years?
Wow this helped Mee out so much !!!!! In understanding I have a 2012 Kia optima factory alternator d35 yellow top upfront nd a 4f cap when they check up front the voltage is above 12 nd thee guy checking alternator for me says it's good it's charging well but in the back the cap in dropping down to the 11s I wanna add another battery or the ultra cap or bigger alternator... There's so many diff options I dnt know what to do first.... This video helped a lot nd the response about ground. I dnt like where the shop grounded my
audio pipe 20001d on a 800w RMS 3000w peak 10" pioneer 1ohm
Man I purchased one of these for my system from big jeff audio and man I can literally feel the difference it made my subs come alive I'm running a CXA 1800.1 on two Q-class L7 12's and they would hit pretty good before but I could literally go full tilt on my head unit and barely see vibration in my side mirrors I added this and I can't go past 3/4 on my radio or bass knob and I am slamming this was literally the best purchase I have made so far for my system it made me so happy and I could actually feel the difference in the SPL lvl so much that I have already ordered a 74AH jag35 lithium battery to go with it for a hybrid super capacitor setup that I'm told works really well together and will give me a lot more power than the lead acid/Super cap setup I'm currently running great video and good recommendation this thing has excellent power delivery for your system and the price is excellent I got mine in hand for next to nothing with financing I literally won't even notice the payment
Hope you didn't pay full price. Those were recalled. There's a possibility of it's circuitry going out causing it to drain your battery and catch fire. I wouldn't put one in my car. Guy I know bought one and it didn't catch fire but it drained his car battery. You can buy these b-stock for $100 now for that reason. No way I'd put one in my car.
@@Hertzsogood219 I used it for quite a while and never had any problems with it I still have it in my spare bedroom but that was months ago I'm running a 29AH SCIB bank from NORTHWEST LITHIUM now 2.9AH M5 pedestal cells rated at 75c Best on the market check out the videos I'm posting on the weekends of the build im still learning and trying to build the channel and learn from more experienced people through comments check it out if you get a chance got a whole brand new setup since I posted this comment
@@Hertzsogood219can one of these be put under the hood and can it start your vehicle?
batteries and alternators are voltage sources, caps are rectifiers and shouldn't be used in place of a source. Gotta get the current u need from alternator and batteries then add the ultracaps to rectify fluxuations is voltage
excellent point. Thanks.
So are you saying that the amp or amps should be feeding directly from the batteries and the cap should go in between the alt and amp as like a buffer between the alt and battery I'm just wondering because I purchased one of these myself and a lithium battery to go with it and I have installed the ultra cap and I love it my subs hit so much harder I didn't realize how underpowered they were with my stock alternator but now I am unsure if the battery or cap should be feeding directly into the amp a few have told me let the alternator feed the battery and the battery supply the cap I was told it's a hybrid type setup with the lithium and super cap together and that they work really well together Im just learning all this stuff though so advice on the placement of the lithium and cap would be appreciated
Eh what? Voltage sources? They are sources for electrons, supercaps are electron storage devices for short bursts if your. Woof heavy music has lulls technically a supercap would work fine, personally, I think subs for music are silly though so what do I know? I'm only here to see what an IOXUS looks like so thanks for the video 🙂
I was going to comment about getting yourself a higher output alternator, but I'm glad I waited for the video to finish. How come you didn't run 1/0 gauge when you did your big three? I can't see where your grounds are in the back, but hopefully you're attached to the frame, or a seat bolt. Are your power and ground OFC cable? If it's CCA, it won't have the same current capacity for the same gauge as OFC. I'm really impressed with your improved video production value. You're on your way, bruh. Keep up the good work.
Well said
Wire is KNU Koncept Kolosus 4g (dual runs) OFC. 1/0 coming up after testing new alt.
Once that alt goes in you’ll be fine. I did two batteries in the back one for each sub and the alternator from singer. I didn’t need the capacitor. But you will be pleasantly pleased when then alternator drops in. 😎😎
Thats exactly what I'm hoping for.
Im not a pro like you. But from my research and experience. Add that to the second battery in back instead of replacing it might do a world of difference. That being said the alternator will change your systems electrical just make sure your running at least 1/0 the whole way around as well as doing the big 4 upgrade. Again this is from my experience. Keep up the great videos
Thanks for the tip.
I was really hoping the capacitor would have fix the voltage drop.. I have gone as far as having 3 , 110 amp AGM batteries . 1up front & 2 in the rear, plus I upgraded my alternator from a 80amp to a 160amp ..
I'll be following your trial's & errors on your electrical upgrade. No other RUclips channel talks in detail on how to like yours and it's extremely helpful to me , a DIY builder. Thank you for your videos . I pretty much have the same setup as yours.
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps you out.
I'm sure you already know this Budget Basshead, but for those who may not: things needed when big power amplifiers are used: 1.) Big 3 power/ground cable upgrade
2.) H.O. alternator 3.) Secondary battery dedicated to audio system
4.) Current isolator relay
Do you need a second battery if you mostly listen when the engine is on?
@@fasin8me1 i added one, I never listen with car off. Because the amp draws a lot of power when it hits the lows, personally I like the thought of having good batteries so when the amp needs the power, I have a reserve of power to pull from
@@fasin8me1 trust getting better batteries will change a lot especially if your running a high watt system
Editing on these videos is really 👍. Subscriber from Barbados 🇧🇧
Thanks! 😃
Caps in my opinion aren't good for long bass notes.. more for instant recharge. never used them, just and more agms or lithium... I have a mechman 370 and I love it... huge improvement.. u will see
If the voltage on the battery stays strong, even though the voltage on the cap drops, that means it's doing what it's supposed to. The cap isn't the true power source. It's just between the amp and the true power source, and if the true power source was showing a voltage drop and it's not doing it anymore, good job, capacitor. You mentioned that it sounds better and the bass hits harder, so it must be working. Especially if you had some dimming before and you don't anymore. But I have always just gone ahead and upgraded wires, alternator, and added a second battery and a cap if I am installing a bass amplifier. Just to go ahead and eliminate the probability of electrical issues so I don't have to figure out which one I need. Plus on my first installation decades ago I added a second battery, upgraded wires, and a HO alternator, and still had dimming. Since then, I just do the wires, alternator, second battery, and cap and get it over with, because I know I will need it all anyway.
So the thing is, your amps are full of caps that need to constantly recharge as they expel their current with each note. Putting a super capacitor back there really just adds another load that the alternator needs to contend with so yeah…it’s allot like adding an additional amp really. It will help stiffen up the current supply as it can discharge faster than an agm battery, but it’s not a support mechanism for the alternator, it’s a drain…so if you’re adding a massive capacitor in, you’re gonna wanna make sure you have a good strong alternator for sure, if you’re not changing out your alternator, you’re better off just adding an agm battery back there & calling it a day
I now have a 350A Mechman
A Cap is actually like adding a turbo to your motor.
I can definitely feel the difference
For you to keep your voltage up, you must know how much current your system is pulling, and how much resistance you have. Runs of power is also a factor. If you don't have a strong source in the rear, you must have it up front somewhere, somehow. That's when runs of cable is important. Don't use CCA!!!!! Use OFC!!!!! It takes 3 times if not more runs of CCA to equal 1 run of OFC. 1 or 2/0 of 4 or 0ga OFC is needed. Solid grounds, If not, runs of fresh grounds, being new cars are using weaker metals for weight and cost, which aren't great conductors, like Ford trucks that need grounds ran from the battery to your audio setup direct. Caps are good for burps, and recovery. If you want daily, batteries are the go too, with a high amperage alternator, or 2 depending on how much amperage can be supplied with the car you possess. Some cases, you need to do a step-down converter to keep your car safe. I did my best to keep it short, but it's still is a long comment. It's a lot but like the saying goes, to make power, you must supply power!!!!!
Telling you bro, even as good as it is without the second batt, the cap bank AND 2 AGM's will be even more consistent. I've now got 2 runs of 0 gauge ofc straight from the alt to the batt and cap, only time I can get it down below 14 is when I'm mad clipping and idling. none the less, mo power is mo better baby.
great idea.
run a dedicated ground from either your alt case or battery negative ( if you don't already ) and i bet it'll help.
if you do this, try not to ground anywhere other then said wire or you might run into noise issues.
Great tip.
The Ultra Capacitor is not meant for audio. This is my personal opinion. It caused my speakers to hum. Drove me crazy, rewiring the entire system before I realized it was the ultracapacitor. Replaced with my previous capacitor and my radio is back to normal. Basically $200 wasted. Sitting in my shed useless. I do know it allows utility vans and vehicles batteries to last longer.
Capacitors can most definitely be useful but nothing beats having enough lithium and charging amps stay in the high 14's. Ive used super capacitor banks before. I play alot of rebassed music with steady bass lines and without sufficient battery reserve my caps would drain and it wouldn't recharge until their was a break in the bass.
One thing i would recommend is comparing the charging voltage of the stock alt at idle vs 2k rpms. Some people dont realize that you have better charging from higher engine speeds. So if your stock alt puts out 80amps idle thats less then the 135amps it is rated for. Even with the different charge parameters put into the bcm of the car. The newer 320amp alt will give you more amps at idle over your stock alt but it also gives more at the higher engine speeds too. If you can try to run up the engine speed to around 2k and see how that compares to what you saw with the idling. Also try putting the agm battery under the hood as well. Keeping the ultra cap in the back should help out that much more.
My new alt has 200+ @idle and There already is an AGM under the hood. Thanks for the tip
You need to check how you have your subs wired inside the box. Make sure they are actually wired for 2 ohms or 4 ohms or whatever they are meant to be wired at. You can use the multimeter to check what each individual sub is running at. That happened to me before when the subs were wired to run at 1 ohm and the amp was rated at 2 ohms x 2 channels and they were actually running at .25 ohms and the voltage dropped like crazy.
Great video my guy ! A few things I may add with your voltage drop in the rear .. you might need bigger or better wire .. ofc or larger gauge - those audiopipes pull some juice - over 300a each .. 40-80a of lithium in the rear and that mechman and you’ll be out of the woods ...14v+ for days
Thanks for sharing
may I get your advice, back into car audio after 15 years....do lithium batteries require charging every 2 days by an actual lithium battery charger or would my 300 amp alt charge them....sorry for the stupid question
@@terik555 nothing charges a battery better than a charger, but ..
Normal use you can go forever without hooking up to a charger - but you could be losing some potential out of it
If you are deep cycling the battery, then a full charge once a month would be more than you really would ever need
The alt charges but never quite tops off like a lithium charger
Is it that noticeable? Yes and no .. A good charge is never a bad thing 👊🏼
I've been using maxwell ultra caps and they made a world or difference in my wifes car I got the one off Amazon in the battery case I'm going to try in my car I just need a resistor to charge it last time I used Christmas lights.
I've heard good things about Maxwell caps. Hope it goes well for you.
@@BudgetBassHead how did u charge the super cap u got?
I know this is old but I hope you added the other agm probably a lot better results since the capacitor isn’t a battery just a power booster and the extra amp hours would’ve been better
Capacitors are designed to charge and discharge quickly so that thing dropping fast is exactly what you would expect to do they don't hold very much power. It does stabilize your battery as you saw because as you said it is taking the brunt of the load.
The more you can support the capacitors with current the faster they will bounce back. So once you get a alt, they will love all the extra input current.
Also yes if you have more batteries you can always add them to the system. Capacitors play nice with everything. The capacitors actually don't care that they're low voltage The capacitor doesn't have a set voltage point It's like a container for energy so it can be at zero just fine The main thing is you can't try to overfill it, so too high a voltage is a issue, but your voltage is fine.
Since this is a smart unit it would keep itself safe anyways, thats part of what you're paying for.
Get your voltage monitor straight at your amp, that's where it matters.
Anyway I hope this all helps!
Excellent comment! Thanks for the clarity 💯 👍
is there any benefit to using 2 super caps? thanks
I'd like to see how good it works with just 1 of your amps on both 12s.
Lots of guys just run one amp that aren't into comps or crazy spl and I'm curious what it would do with a 2000 watt amp and maybe a 400 watt mid high amp,or just the sub amp.
Super old.. but if you really want caps to work at top performance you need a full lith battery that will discharge faster to the caps..
It all starts at the alt though.. from there the wires then the battery, then the secondary source of power batter, cap, headway etc.. then amp..
A lithium battery of same rating as an agm is actually about 2.5-3x stronger then the agm.. just cause of how much faster it charges and discharges..
Caps will help if you’re just slightly under total amp draw on an agm where the battery basically trickle charged them.. but when pulling 200amp off a 120amp alt you’re down about 200amp from your demands..
Many try the lithium as the secondary.. this is stupid unless you got a direct feed from the alt to it.. if it’s feeding off the regular agm then it’s still limited by the recharge rate of the agm..
Alt, then lithium then ultra cap or headway bank.. that’s the way to run with these power robbing inefficient amps and subs we have today.
FYI to anyone with a trucks.. there is almost always a factory 220amp option in place of your 145-160alt.. you can usually get two of these and a dual bracket kit for less money then a single 320.. keep in mind also once you go above 280amp alt or so.. you become limited in engine rpm’s you can run or you’re over spinning the alternators.. most don’t like to go over 5k and as you go larger say 320, 400 etc you’re limited to 4500 even 4K engine rpm cause they rely on undersize pulleys to spin the coil faster at lower rpm’s..
For a daily if you got the space which most trucks do.. a dual 220 setup is the best way to go..
For most a single 220 with single lithium battery is all you need.. worst case add some headway or an ultra cap unit and you’ll be good to about 4500watts on music with normal driving..
If you demo then this won’t get you there lol.. myself in a daily I’d never go over 250amp alt.. better to run more then run higher power because of the over spin issues..
Wish there is more info for hybrid vehicles. I'm keeping my total wattage of my whole system under 2000w one kicker cs amp 800 w at 1 ohm on one 1 12 kicker r. And 360.4 cs amp for 4 6.5 ks 2 3.5 ks with built in crossovers
I just bought this capacitor
I agree with most comments. It's not a replacement. It works in conjunction with. One thing I'm curious of tho is what wire your using to go to the back. OFC. or CCA.
All my wire is oversized New concept flex ofc copper wire
Run ground cable from the capacitor to grinded clean part of frame and on from the battery same thing and add another set of caps if it does not help and calculate your amp usage to balance with caps always leave room with a 50 to 200 amps of room and alternator upgrades if you need
Thanks for the info
I bought an ioxus ultra capacitor and recently had the same issue and strangely enough, I found that cleaning the front terminal and connectors increased and steadied my voltage at the back. Could it be as simple as this, I'm monitoring to find out.
Keep rear agm then add cap to it!! Then you will see difference!! Also check wire to rear make sure you have proper size! Maybe add another run!! Add more grounds can help as well!! Bigger alt is always good!! It is combined resources that you will need !!
Thanks for the tips!
What your reading at the back is what is being supplied to the amps so it does help over all but I still believe you would have benefit from a lithium phosphate more than from the super cap
Great tip. We got more testing to do 😀
Get you some amps that are rated at 12v. So a low voltage high amps type amplifier.
you can notice a .7 voltage drop across a cap. have you run a positive and negative from the front battery to the back. the cap will charge 99% fast but that last 1% takes a lot of time. depending on the size of the cap it. you can look up the electronics formula for capacitor charge. the high amp alternator will give you more amps at a higher rpm. make sure you are getting more amps at idle with the upgraded alternator. who cares about the higher 300 amps at 2k rpms. the 200 amp alt may give you more at idle. they rewire the 3 coils inside the alternator to change its performance characteristics. they also upgrade a few internal parts like rectifier's and such. its about that idle current. do the math on your amplifiers output in amps at 12 volts. how many amps are you pulling? you need to try and cover that. of course it is a dynamic load so take that into account. you may peak at 300-600 amps? not sure your amplifiers ratings. but the extra agm battery and cap together should handle that peak. if your dropping under 12 volts you dont have enough supply.
oh ok i missed you got the higher amp alt. 200 amps at idle good good.
that knob your using is that a gain knob or bass boost. if its a bass boost you may be hurting your score. a boost is much less efficient in increasing your average spl. it is also much harder on sub woofers and amplifier. you can play with that software and tuning more. the skars and sun downs are very inefficient but they handle abuse better. you should be past that age lol.
Its the bass control knob that came with the amplifier. I don't use bass boost and this knob is set to 100% during gain setting procedure. So I guess you can say its a gain control.
@@BudgetBassHead if that knob does control a bass boost here is what to try. what is the model of the amp. i will try and check. if its controlling bass that is changing the whole characteristics of your set up. but you should be able to have much better results with way more headroom. now start over setting your gains with NO BASS BOOST. take it up to the clipping point. then retest what your max SPL number is. i bet your new score beats it. when you use bass boost it boosts the frequency usually around 45 hertz. this limits your headroom on the amplifier and speaker to that set frequency. your missing out on the limit of all the other frequencies. your box tuning maybe very different than 45 hertz, so boosting that frequency specifically maybe limiting you. lets say you tuned your box to 36 hertz and your car peaks at 40 hertz. that 45 hertz boost isnt doing you any favors. i hope i explained that well enough. let me know.
@@666Necropsy his control knob is controlling gain not bass boost and if one was worried about it get the control knob that connects to the rca cables feeding the sub amp that's how alot of the heavy hitters do it
You couldn't run the extra battery and the capacitor at the same time?
These have a recall for internal shorting and causing fires. I think I will spend a bit more to avoid the added risk of fire.
seems like no one knows this or cares, Hopefully the other brands are built to spec.
You need 2 runs of 1/0 to the back and a high output alt would help alot also
Great video. I currently run a single skar VXF 12 with a CRESCENDO AUDIO | SYMPHONY S1 PLUS | 2500w amp. I have a Diehard platinum AGM under hood and a XS Power D5100 in rear of a 2019 Camry. This car is a voltage nightmare with the smart alternator which never charges past 13.8. The only way to keep my voltage from dropping was to turn amp down to only output 2000w.
You need a "PCM Bypass" that Mechman sells (or did sell). I see them offered here and there. It allows the PCM to think that more current/voltage is necessary when the draw reaches a certain threshold so it doesnt limit your voltage to 13.8V
@@Raymo2u thanks for the advice, unfortunately I sold the car for a 2022 Highlander. People don’t realize that with before installing audio equipment into todays cars they need to understand all aspects of the charging system which I did not also. Your advice would have helped me out tremendously as I was chasing down why I could not achieve 14v. Again thanks
@@fixodent6 Well, now you'll know that most Toyota's, especially models with the 2.4L motor - will have the PCM regulation.
Man you do great videos,I enjoy them and the editing.keep up the good work
Glad you like them!
Just wish you knew what you were talking about instead of trying to get people to fix your problems
Old basshead reborn through my 15yo stepsons recently installed first system. That being said great videos man. Editing info and attention span kept. New sub.
I am facing the same dilemma with my system. I have a Mechman 400 amp alt and in addition to my stock battery, I have another AGM under the hood in my GMC Sierra. I have 2 JP 23v2s running a Resilient Sounds Platinum 18 each at 1 ohms. I get voltage drops down to the low 11's and high 10s if I push it. Huge drum kicks wit hrock music like Hoobastank's The Reason will drop it down fast, but it comes right back, so having a ultracap should help a bunch, but on long low drops like rebassed songs with sustained bass notes below 30 drop the voltage and it stays there. I don't know what do, other than maybe try lithium bank to keep the voltage up.
Lithium fixed my problem. No longer need the ultra Cap
Thank God I have found your Channel.
I was wondering about that capacitor Bank you have in the video.
Thanks 😊
Glad I could help
Im 9 months late to the party, but the fact that you have higher voltage in the front than you do in the back indicates an inadequate current path between front and back, either positive runs or ground path. If you're using a body ground that is most likely where the majority of the drop is.
As I'm sure you've learned caps are like your shocks, they just dampen out the highs and lows or with voltage the lows. A battery can't supply power quickly, a cap can't hold a lot of power so together you get the best of both, the cap steps up to the plate long enough for the batteries to do their job. And, I have no clue why I even watched this, I was looking for something totally didn't and don't even have a system in my ride.
As it was stated before I am sure you already got your answer. Sure AudioPipe may work for you, but over all that is one of those brands that exaggerate the power capabilities in the name of sacrificing clean power. Sure that amp will put out 2000 watts, but the signal when doing so is flat topped and distorted. First things first, I would check your amp draw from your front battery. Not the voltage. The Draw. Then compare that to the draw at the Amplifier. You also should factor in the use of CCA or OFC, and even if there is a frame ground near by. I would run a separate ground from the ultra cap to the frame. then hook it up like you would that AGM. Just because it has the power, you are still giving it the ability to loose efficiency by not providing the system with adequate grounds. Once you do that as well as your big 3 upgrade your voltage drop issue will be fixed. But again, I also recommend swapping amplifiers for more true rated equipment that is not exaggerated.
Excellent narration and video production! You gained a new sub here!
Thank you very much!
< - see the resting voltage - a sound system should be able to run at 100% with the engine off, FYI
input voltage means Nothing if your amplifier can out puts more voltage ant the speaker can take - eg the week-link should always be your speaker.
having enough CA (CCA) , in a low enough impedance "eg small cable run, large size" .., eg I think you need a bbb (bigger better battery) not an alternator..
Check your grounds... add more ground than you have supply.... and ground to Alternator if possible. Thatll.help ALOT!
Each amp has its own ground and extra ground already on alt. Thanks for the tips ✌
@@BudgetBassHead I'm currently running 3-2400w and 2-750 watt amps, grounded to a bus bar and several direct leads back to alt,(3 runs 0 gauge OFC) batteries and several body to chassis to Alt mounting points...
300 amp alt, 3 runs 0 gauge(OFC) back to batteries to bus bar for amp power and 5 Viper VP2400 agm... seems the more grounds I added, the more stable the voltage.
Super caps coming...
Keep us informed
0:40 yes you do have a problem having 2 skar subs lol
All day with that Mechman. alt!!! 😆
What I noticed with regular capacitors is that voltage does get stabilized but you loose bass output, that’s why I don’t care to use them. They diminish bass, no good.
similar to what i was having when I was running a fosegate 1200rms amp with a stock 110 amp alt tho mine was dropping to about 11. Killed a few amps like that tho. about a year ago I upgraded my alt did the big three and killed 2 amps one was the fosegate and the other was a sundown fullbridge 1500 my voltage was going all over the place. I then added a xs power d3400 in the trunk and well have had no issues at all voltage drop at idle isnt bad while driving its good.
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully Mechman 320 comes through for me.
The 10+ grounds on your 1 ground battery terminal is un necessary!!!! Atleast get a terminal block instead of 10 connections on 1😖 if those are your amp grounds they need to go!!!! Ground to chassis not paint either. They need to be short as possible and grounded at same location prefably to prevent ground looping which will cause system noise . Your battery should have only 1 to car body & 1 to engine block and make sure the metal surface is sanded to metal. Use Vaseline or terminal sprabtobprotect from rust and corrosion. It also helps with continuity.. Be sure to install the big 3 when you do the altinator cause factory wiring won't cut it at all. 😁😁👍👍
It'll be a night and day difference once you install that alternator ,you also need to read up on ampere's law you're simply pulling to many amps your stock alt can't keep up and will blow prematurely you don't need to do any wiring up grades if your already using OFC wire that wld be a waste of money I personally wld of put the money you spent on that ultra cap towards lithium I know those ultra caps aren't cheep But great video 👍🏽👊🏽✌🏽💯. #🔊🔊🔊
My cars are never worthy of a mechman...lol
ok...anyone know if you can you run 2 super caps between the amp and batteries and how well does it work??????
II got a Skv2-3500.1D on my 2 12 Evl box and I ran into the same issues. I snagged 2 200ah AGM batteries from Interstate Battery and I would still get the Voltage drop until I got a JS 240a Alternator...now my lowest voltage has been 12.6. Im hoping with a Supercap Ill stay above 13V. Get an 240a+ Alternator and you'll do just fine, I'd get rid of the Lead Battery and go with 2 AGMs or Lithium.
My batteries 'are' AGM. Good advice.
Your voltage will be lower closer to the amp.your draining the power wire or the battery.if the voltage up front gets low that's when your using way to much power.ho alt would help alot
Exocontralto shows a better example of this "cap" bank, even started the car with it.
It also comes with a app that show state of charge and voltage.
Second, did you say 141db @ "4000w" ??
I did that in a wagon with 1500w singer 18" no modifications to the car. Oem alternator, 1 agm battery up front.
Your setup is great, but something not right.
Last, Skar recommend 2cf3 per sub, that does not look like a 4cf3 inclosure.
you seem very into your car and wanting to do it right, id advise in a ground distro block to avoid having 10 cables.
👌
Very nice video,If I was you,I would build my system around the amount of draw for your amps,if your amp draw 300 amps @1ohms,I would build my electrical around that concept,if it takes to have one 300 amp high output alternator and one cmaxx lithium battery,that's what I would do,That's just me.Good luck.
It's a pity that in Brazil we don't have access to this very expensive capacitor to import
Takes power to make power. Your doing 👍🏽
Bro your the basshead Steve Harvey got my sub lol good shit
I don't see u have the car running I noticed the rmp on dash was not even moving
I just ordered a VXF-15 with the SKV2 1500.1d...I'm going to do a1/0 big three but I hope that's all I need... I don't want to do all this. It was running fine with the EVL 15 but it was a little less watts.
Car audio is more demanding than most think. Your automobile comes with just enough power to support your stock electronics. Adding thousands of Watts more, will need to be supported.
Well first off love the content. I have those amps myself. I’m kinda feeling like the are just really inefficient AF they put the power out but they suck more than others. Also the difference between the front and back voltage is that there is so much more resistance in the back. All the 1/0 wire and batteries and amps it’s causing a drop just from flowing through all that. I believe that just moving you front battery to the back and none up front will make a worlds of difference. It’s worth a shot. I did it and it helped I have a 2009 Saturn Aura with the same engine and a mechman 250 and 3 of the 2000.1 audiopipes I stay around 12.60-14.20
Thanks for sharing. Didn't think of moving to the trunk
How would u move the front hood battery into back. What do you do with the front battery connections.
Cut the connections and solder some 1/0 or 4gauge to it and run that straight to the back. Some people just make distribution blocks where the battery use to be and do it that way. I personally like just moving the battery to the back but either way it’s helpful. Remember that if you have a battery close to you amps under 5’ you can use 4gauge for that size amp, so there are some benefits that way also
Before you change Alts, can you test to see how many amps and or watts you're pulling from the current electrical system? I had 2 of the AudioPipe Mini 2ks and I was pulling 4800+ out of them in total, metered at comps. I sold those and bought 2 of the Soundqubed 2250s. They don't pull as much power but they sound cleaner. I run a 250 amp Alt, Big 3, 2 Deka 110 AH Group 31s in the trunk and a normal Interstate battery under the hood. 3 runs of 0 gauge front to back.
Thanks for the product advice. I think you are correct about the amp draw.
The positive ioxis terminal is connected to what exactly?
How long does is take for that ultra cap to lose its charge when you unhook it, mine depletes almost immediately if I unhook it
Ultracapacitors are to be used with your current agm you just took out.
But this is at idol voltage, give it some gas and see what it runs at.
This is true, but I want stable voltage @idle. This is part of the testing. Stay Tuned😉
Did you notice if the ultra cap introduced any noise into the system?
Not in my case; it did not.
@@BudgetBassHead thanks for the info. I ordered one of the b stock ones.. I've been trying to watch different videos about them. Some show that have to do the little light bulbs tricky when first connecting it but some say and manually says it don't have to.. What's was your experience?
What do you use to set your gains? And when setting your amp gain, where do you have your bass knob set? I ask because it seems your bass hits max before you get to half on the bass knob. Unless you just prefer it that way.
Believe it, or not, that wasn't max 😉 The Bass knobs that come with these amps are pretty decent and the gains are set with oscilloscope.
The Mechman will solve the problem.✔
It worked for me only when driving parked not so much
I'm hoping 200+ Amps @idle will be enough.
@@BudgetBassHead I have a 320 mechman it doubled my idle.
@@BudgetBassHead you may need more than one for that at idle.
Add an xs power battery it helped me alot I have a smart 3
Maybe you need better grounds. I know you have big 4. All 0 guage?
not yet. Dual runs of over-sized 4 gauge. Equal to standard 0 gauge.
I think running another power wire to the back( I don't know how many you have now) would help on the voltage drop from front to back.
It's the alt.
If he had 1 amp it would be fine with the ultra capacitor but since he has 2 amps it’s it’s more amperage needed than the alternator can supply plus he is at idle....driving is a different story since he will drive at a higher rpm producing more amperage to the amps he also has dual runs of wire already his alternator upgrade will give him lots of headroom.
I'm very very late to the party. I currently have 2 of these ioxus ultra capacitors in parallel for 750 farad and xs power d3400 up front 1/0 ofc big 4 and 4/0 welding cable to the back. Stock alt 105 amps pushing a stetsom 3k.
Just bought a mechman 320 and deaf bonce 4000.1 to push my single Avatar SVL 1547D2. Do you think my setup will run that amp as is or is it mandatory for me to get a reserve? Thank you
I think you should be fine for a single 15. But a reserve is always recommended
Do you need the isolator?
Put caps before the battery.
This will help with starting the car, but not with pulls from amplifiers in the rear. which is why I placed the cap next to amp. Others say to reinstall the AGM to assist the cap. Sounds like got some more testing to do 😉
@@BudgetBassHead put in front and back?
I’m trying to find out can you run more than 1 ioxus Ultra Capacitors?!? I bought 2 hoping to keep the voltage from hardly dropping at all any info will be greatly appreciated!!!
They work best with transient bass notes. They were originally designed to assist starting batteries in delivery trucks. And yes they can be wired in parallel.
I second what others have said about putting your AGM back into the mix. Do the Big 3 when you put in your alt and put some decent battery terminals on your battery under hood. The lines all going into that battery the way you have it is dangerous and you’ll get a better connection using proper separate terminals. Excellent video and serious props for your editing skills.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Ioxus Ultra Cap should be closest to the starter according to there instructions. Switch the battery and ultra cap bank. Meaning ultra cap bank up front and battery in the rear. I think this is how installation was intended per instructions. Hope this helps.
3 agm batteries in parallel with a aftermarket alternator should do the job
Say brother, can you tell me what hardware came with your UC-31 Ultra Capacitor?
Only the mobile application available in the Play store is what I'm aware of.
Did it help bro? I'm thinking of buying one but there's no other videos explaining if they help or not. Thank you
Yes this did help but if I were to redo this I would instead invest my money in lithium. Which I have done so and now I no longer need this ultra capacitor
@@BudgetBassHead thank you for the response bro. I can't afford lithium but bought this ultra cap used from a friend. I only drop down into the high 12s at full tilt so hopefully this will help me out. I appreciate the info.
I was planning on adding it to my xs power 3400 AGM I have under the hood. As a supplemental power source. What you think bro?
When did Steve Harvey get into car audio? 😂🤣
There is some confusion in your video...
There are multiple different types of batteries used in automotive.
They are flooded wet cell (which is what you have shown in the video)
You can have a deep cycle version of a flooded wet cell which just means it’s constructed with thicker plates and designed to be drawn down lower in charge without being damaged. Normal batteries are really just for cranking where is deep cycle batteries are for operating equipment and can support a larger current draw for longer.
There are absorbed glass mat (AGM) which is a technology that has nothing to do with deep cycle, it has to do with the acid being absorbed into the material within the battery that it’s not just floating around in there.
An AGM battery can be mounted upside down or right side up because it will never leak… They are sealed and maintenance free.
They make AGM batteries in both normal and deep cycle profiles as well as a marine profile so like I was saying the fact that it’s an AGM battery does not mean that it’s deep cycle.
They (AGM) require more strict charging systems and they’re not typically found in Automotive unless you pay more money for something like an Optima or an odyssey.
Then you can also find lithium batteries nowadays both lithium iron phosphate and straight lithium which mainly both have the advantage of being lighter in weight.
All of these battery topologies could potentially benefit from a capacitor right at the load source but it’s more important to have an adequate charging system first.
On another note, as somebody who has had an electrical fire in a vehicle… you need to move that fire extinguisher into the passenger compartment of the vehicle. The best location is right to the left side of the driver seat so you can easily get to it as you’re trying to get out of the door. People are wholly unprepared for how fast an electrical fire happens. It’s not like a regular fire where you put some wood in a pile and light it with a lighter or a match in in a few minutes you have flames… When I had the electrical fire in my car in just five seconds the entire car was full of toxic smoke from all of the insulation melting off of the wiring and the next thing you know the entire underside of the hood was on fire. That all happened in a matter of 20 seconds from zero to fully involved. You don’t want to have to stick your hand into the area where there might be a fire in order to get to the fire extinguisher. Better yet leave that one in the trunk and get another one and put it in the passenger compartment. They’re not expensive.
10th generation Impala LTs comes stock with AGMs. The 4 Cylinder versions have 2 AGMs for stop & start tech. This 'is' a deep cycle battery. Optima Yellow Top 'Deep Cycle' was $300 with 72 Ah. This battery $200 with 70Ah. I follow the stats; not so much the labels. Thanks for the tip on the fire extinguisher. I'll be definitely following that piece of advice. 👍
Do not remove your agm leave it just add the ultra cap to what you already had.
Hey bro. One more question. Can I ground the negative on the super cap to the chassis or must I run a negative from the cap to my negative on battery? Thank you!
Every power source should have it's own ground. But some have daisy chained the grounds, post-to-post. Just make sure you have big enough wire to support the amperage draw; or you risk fire.
@@BudgetBassHead thank you
It will work if u have two batteries with the capacitor
4000 watts on 2 4 gauge wires? Nah. Get your wire right first. 0 gauge ofc is something like 325- 375 amp so you need that at a bare minimum. 2 runs would be better. My 15 year old Rockford fosgate 100 farad cap could probably do those numbers. I have the 2000 watts audiopipeamp on 2 skar evl 12's with a 1600.4 amp from precision power in my vehicle and I have very little voltage drop . You are not runny 4000 watts on 4 gauge. You need the big 3 and the best ground available in the back
Did you fix the problem btw
This sounds weird but try disconnecting/removing your front battery. I notice better voltage in the rear without a front battery, might work, might not, worth a shot tho I think.
If you do this you will lose reserve with the switch off. But have a great cranking capability
@@BudgetBassHead I'm just saying the front battery is a choke point, removing it and having both batteries and caps in the rear would be better or run more power wire. Thanks for responding, I like your videos.
@@mishabuildz6380 oh I get what you're saying. yeah, some others had also suggested to reinstall the AGM alongside the capacitor. If the capacitor wasn't so large I would rather have it up front as a cranking unit and put the two agms in the rear. But I may just have to reinstall the AGM alongside the capacitor. thanks for the comment
Did you charge the capacitor before starting
These capacitors automatically charge, and are configured to not power on unless charged.
Dude this is a amazing video
Thanks for the support💯👍
You should review the new version of the American bass xfl 12 they are not 1000 rms no more they are 1500 rms now
That is the only one on this channel. Checkout my playlist for it: ruclips.net/p/PL9kZHk54cMwH8A9a5QWi0Teo7WpvOYtQJ
Dont yoy have two agms ? If so throw the other one back in along with the capacitor
It is doing exactly what it is supposed to do...You say yourself caps discharge very fast..and are not able to re-charge fast enough..for the next bass hit..With the power you're demanding you need a second battery with a bigger alt...
We'll see in the next video.