The hose sucking the coolant was empty of liquid and full of air... all the air went into the cooling system. You need to create the vacuum, then open the feeding valve until the hose is full of coolant up to the gauge, then close it and re-apply the required vacuum, then open the coolant feed to fill the system.
That is correct. I thought the same thing.. oops, you just let all the air in the tube between the valve and the coolant jug into the system. This defeated the whole purpose and really is a fail.
in theory yes, the volume of air from the suction hose went inside but in reality what actually happened, this small amount of air just lowered the vacuum inside the system from -20 to let's say -19 inHg...still plenty of vacuum. A complete vacuum would read -29 which is not necessary for this kind of procedure anyways. So there was nothing wrong with the procedure
I totally agree with Dan z. It's all misleading. Evacuate to me means removing all fluid (coolant) via vacuum pulled. Than switching a valve too allow new coolant to enter system air free. Done..
@@Addison0526 definitely agree with you. I learn how to use this at school and admittedly got confused thinking you could extract fluid with it but really it will just spray fluid/water if you try, but it doesn’t take that long to drain a cooling system realistically it’s just taking off a hose or using the drain cock sometimes like on the Prius I worked on the drain cock is just really hard to get to you and you have to remove the whole bumper cover panel😅
It is the proper tool need on many newer model 2000 and up vehicles factory recommends to prevent air pockets is cooling systems which cause major damage the engine it may not remove all air but enough to do the job !
So I have a question. If your pulling a vacuum of 24" (30" being absolute vacuum) then you are only removing 80% of the air. What happens to the remaining 20% of the air. Does it just congregate in any high spots. Can the process be repeated when the system as coolant in it?
When you negatively pressurize the system to about 25 psi, that should take as much air out of the system as you need, there's no chance of enough air staying in there to cause any issue.
Posting in 2023 and STILL trying to find the correct answer to this question. Im actually amazed how difficult it is to get the answer. You'd think it would be in the products instructions, but no, it is not. Ive watched all the videos i could find on the use of this EXACT product and not one of them says how much psi they are using... NOT ONE!!
As it is such a minuscule amount it shouldn’t cause an issue. When the coolant circulates around the engine, the tiny amount of air should flow back into the expansion tank as air bubbles where it will percolate to the top and will fill the space in between the coolant level and the lid/ cap of the expansion tank where it will stay along with the air that was captured when screwing down the expansion tank cap.
@@cmrnx guess my question then is... why bother? just dump the coolant in. Id say our definition of minuscule differs. I think bubble, you think enough to fill a cooling jacket. That is also plenty enough of air to get trapped in the heads ... just prime for airlock..then hot spot..then warping, especially if thats your method on a high horse setup
ctsvmapper if you think of it in this way, if you take say the lower rad hose off, then replace it, is terms of displacement, the volume of air that would enter the system through the pipe being removed would be vastly greater than the air that would enter via the small purge pipe on a tool like this. I work in a main JLR retailer and have used both the traditional method of filling the cooling system as well as using one of these tools, I’ve never had any difficulties after using the vacuum filler but occasionally with the traditional method, I’ve run into difficulty
All of these purge tool labels stress drain coolant system first. doesn't that mean evacuate?? That's easier said than done. Drain radiator. Yeah right, what about what's still in engine block, an heater core. Like I said before misleading. You should be able to vacuum it out.
Hey Frank .. while recently doing a refresh on a V8 Titan I found my shop vac hose almost a perfect match to the holes in the block for the thermostat and water pump. With the shop vac in 'water' mode, it sucked all the remaining fluid out of the block. I felt vacuum pull from the O/flow res. and remaining coolant was out. Beautiful :-}
@@chadpeterson3473 That's risky business. Many cooling systems operate around 10~20 psi and a shop vac may very well exceed that type of pressure. I wish there was a tool of sorts to do that though... VW is a PITA just to drain let alone truly flush.
I saw this other video mentioning to set air at 80-90 psi working pressure there about. I know this question is old but hopefully the answer helps someone else in the future.
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The hose sucking the coolant was empty of liquid and full of air... all the air went into the cooling system.
You need to create the vacuum, then open the feeding valve until the hose is full of coolant up to the gauge, then close it and re-apply the required vacuum, then open the coolant feed to fill the system.
That is correct. I thought the same thing.. oops, you just let all the air in the tube between the valve and the coolant jug into the system. This defeated the whole purpose and really is a fail.
in theory yes, the volume of air from the suction hose went inside but in reality what actually happened, this small amount of air just lowered the vacuum inside the system from -20 to let's say -19 inHg...still plenty of vacuum. A complete vacuum would read -29 which is not necessary for this kind of procedure anyways. So there was nothing wrong with the procedure
T🥲❤❤❤
I totally agree with Dan z. It's all misleading. Evacuate to me means removing all fluid (coolant) via vacuum pulled. Than switching a valve too allow new coolant to enter system air free. Done..
This tool saved me a ton of money and its the easiest thing to use!
Does it flush the system of debri
@@davidis3001 i dont think it does.
How did it save you a ton of cash
Is necessary to warm up the car first? I use that tool but with the car normal temp.
Why windshield heating on? :)
I wonder these kind of tool vacuum all the liquid from the engine cooling jackets and a/c heater core?
why do these tools get labeled as evacuation tools? evacuation to me is evacuating the cooling system of the fluid...
Because it is evacuating the air out of the system
@@handyishrandyish334 Then it should be labeled "coolant system air evacuator" not "coolant evacuator". This is not what I am looking for.
@@Addison0526 definitely agree with you. I learn how to use this at school and admittedly got confused thinking you could extract fluid with it but really it will just spray fluid/water if you try, but it doesn’t take that long to drain a cooling system realistically it’s just taking off a hose or using the drain cock sometimes like on the Prius I worked on the drain cock is just really hard to get to you and you have to remove the whole bumper cover panel😅
Can I use this with the B48 or the B58 engine?
It is the proper tool need on many newer model 2000 and up vehicles factory recommends to prevent air pockets is cooling systems which cause major damage the engine it may not remove all air but enough to do the job !
Umuhanga wambere Muramerica wigiye inyanza kavumu 3:28 ntawundi yitwa Bashiri Yaseri
So I have a question.
If your pulling a vacuum of 24" (30" being absolute vacuum) then you are only removing 80% of the air.
What happens to the remaining 20% of the air.
Does it just congregate in any high spots.
Can the process be repeated when the system as coolant in it?
When you negatively pressurize the system to about 25 psi, that should take as much air out of the system as you need, there's no chance of enough air staying in there to cause any issue.
Well the question is, how much psi are you pushing through the devise? Or does it matter?
Posting in 2023 and STILL trying to find the correct answer to this question.
Im actually amazed how difficult it is to get the answer. You'd think it would be in the products instructions, but no, it is not. Ive watched all the videos i could find on the use of this EXACT product and not one of them says how much psi they are using... NOT ONE!!
@@TheNobleLoyalistatleast 90
shop vas will do just fine with right attachments
The air in the tube between the valve and the coolant jug entered the system defeating the whole purpose.
As it is such a minuscule amount it shouldn’t cause an issue. When the coolant circulates around the engine, the tiny amount of air should flow back into the expansion tank as air bubbles where it will percolate to the top and will fill the space in between the coolant level and the lid/ cap of the expansion tank where it will stay along with the air that was captured when screwing down the expansion tank cap.
@@cmrnx guess my question then is... why bother? just dump the coolant in. Id say our definition of minuscule differs. I think bubble, you think enough to fill a cooling jacket. That is also plenty enough of air to get trapped in the heads ... just prime for airlock..then hot spot..then warping, especially if thats your method on a high horse setup
ctsvmapper if you think of it in this way, if you take say the lower rad hose off, then replace it, is terms of displacement, the volume of air that would enter the system through the pipe being removed would be vastly greater than the air that would enter via the small purge pipe on a tool like this. I work in a main JLR retailer and have used both the traditional method of filling the cooling system as well as using one of these tools, I’ve never had any difficulties after using the vacuum filler but occasionally with the traditional method, I’ve run into difficulty
@@cmrnxah gottcha, yes you are correct, even when not fully properly using the tool to its full potential is still more efficient than traditional.
Obviously, which is why you should prep the fill tube before hand to fill up with coolant and prior to filling it.
All of these purge tool labels stress drain coolant system first. doesn't that mean evacuate?? That's easier said than done. Drain radiator. Yeah right, what about what's still in engine block, an heater core. Like I said before misleading. You should be able to vacuum it out.
Hey Frank .. while recently doing a refresh on a V8 Titan I found my shop vac hose almost a perfect match to the holes in the block for the thermostat and water pump. With the shop vac in 'water' mode, it sucked all the remaining fluid out of the block. I felt vacuum pull from the O/flow res. and remaining coolant was out. Beautiful :-}
@@chadpeterson3473 That's risky business. Many cooling systems operate around 10~20 psi and a shop vac may very well exceed that type of pressure. I wish there was a tool of sorts to do that though... VW is a PITA just to drain let alone truly flush.
@@AltruisticWarrior There's never a drain port with VW. Have to remove the lower coolant hose which is usually difficult to get to and it's messy...
Hi xipati Bashiri ❤❤❤ Mechanical Xper
Well the question is, how much psi are you pushing through the devise? Or does it matter?
I saw this other video mentioning to set air at 80-90 psi working pressure there about. I know this question is old but hopefully the answer helps someone else in the future.
I need an answer to this too