I live in SW Washington, thought the fir trees would bring a low pH. Got the test and it was only 6.2. Very pleased since the common knowlege is to lime in the spring! Love the info!!
That is really surprising! Have you taken any test since that? I wonder if you were to grab soil today in different locations of your lawn if it would still give you a 6.2.
Great content John. Glad to see your snow is finally gone. I know it’s still filling in but I’m amazed at how quickly you were able to establish the green.
The powdered version is nice for low cut turf and I suppose just general solubility. Not too hard to handle, I’m looking forward to trying it through the hose end and backpack
My lawns PH has been 5.43 . If you dig about 12 to 16 inches down the clay is a grey glacial silt , like concrete . My crawl space under the house will fill with water if there soil saturates during extra heavy constant rain. The grass grows and is green but can't walk on it till it drys and firms up . I'm putting about 100 Lb.s per. 1000 over the course of this season. I already put 60 Lb.s per. 1000 down so far.
That's super interesting. I know of others that use elemental sulfur on their turf grass, but never have myself. My lawn is at 6.98, but I do want to get it to 6.8... and I use a ton of humic acid throughout the year, so maybe that helps... now I want to go pick up some sulfur! 🌱
Every green I ever dealt with for customers was calcareous sand parent material of this same high pH. It's why I put them all into spoon feeding. Nutrients to the leaf and every batch mixed with humic acid to hopefully complex the nutrients left over in the soil. It will be interesting what this study does over time.
That’s what’s happening here. I’m curious to see if this helps the lateral growth a bit more. I’m honestly shocked at how far the green has come this year in less than ideal conditions. Bare spots are filling and the greenepop, RGS, greenecharge combo has thus far been dynamite.
@@Lawncology I was always surprised how much my green grew under weeks of snow cover! When are you going to hit it with a bit of PGR? Might get that lateral encouragement. Also, I sent my putting green out to pasture. Too much research and work to keep up with it. If I want another one, I'll build back better :)
I’ve got a clay soil in central oklahoma and began with soil around 8.1-8.3. I’ve now been adding 25#/1000/yr (in three treatments) and finally seeing results. And no damage to the Bermuda. Currently 7.4. Hoping to drive it down to 6.0 this year.
I keep fighting the ph in my potted blueberry bushes. Had one near 7 last year, brought it down to 5.5, saw a response. This year it is back up to 6.2. The one I planted in peat moss was around 5.5 last year. Now it's around 7. I have no idea what's going on. I'm not sure how one winter can change the ph so drastically.
Would iron sulfate lower the pH more quickly? I need a quick fix without nitrogen. Ironite is readily available at any garden department. I am rehabilitating a small backyard in Albuquerque, NM. My pH has is about 7.5 in most areas of the lawn.
What model is that meter you are using? I read that the fellas at GCF use a similar meter? Can I use it on my customer's lawns on a regular rotation a couple of times a year? Thanks JP! Cheers!🍻
There’s a different one you can use that’s cheaper, it’s the Hanna soil meter specifically. Pull some soil and make sure it’s got moisture and it’s pretty darn accurate. The electrodes are fragile so you have to pull soil rather than set it in the ground
Great video John. My Texas clay has a consistent pH of 7.8 to 8.4. I have had great success with ammonium sulfate fertilizer, and have used granular sulfur as well. What about spraying citric acid on the turf?
I love the Hanna meters but I have an Oakton pH at the moment. I’m just a bit confused on the dry measurement… shouldn’t you be adding RO water? Most every soil pH measurement instruction I’ve seen says to add something like 2 parts deionized water and 1 part soil to make a slurry/mud to measure. It looks like you’re measuring bone dry with a bulb type pocket meter? I don’t think that’s how they’re supposed to be used and may be giving you improper readings…
The soil is wet and reading pretty inline with the other tests I’ve done. The soil won’t read bone dry and the buffer solution I’ve got with the other meter gave me the same readings.
The buffer solution is just for the calibration, doesn’t really matter in this context. It’s definitely good to confirm the calibration but I’m talking about the measurement method. The physical principles upon which that meter functions rely on adequate hydration. They’re meant for measuring liquid, not sand. I’m just saying that if you can, you should at least dump in a bit of distilled water (or DI water if you have a unit) to help with a proper measurement.
@@berniem5763 I’m sorry, I should clarify: I pulled sand prior to this and tested with water solution. It’s why I ordered the sulfur to begin with. I used neutral water when I sampled a week ago and got the same reading. It was curiosity that led me to test the saturated sand and the meter read the same. So, while it may have a slight variance site to site depending on the moisture, it came within a 0.1 range of the test last week in solution.
Can someone explain to me, is ph and compaction not directly related? I’ve been fighting my back yard since I moved in (new construction with st Augustine grass in Florida). I have Massey handling the yard until I can manage to do it on my own. The soil is super compacted, I’ve had 3 aerations done already over 2 seasons and have the 4th scheduled for Thursday. Initially they tested my soil with the “magic liquid” test and it showed alkaline. They’ve don’t one sulphur app that was a standard app. This next aeration is supposed to be a heavy sulfur granular app. I bought a soil test kit from yard mastery, got it back. Ph is just within the bars as I’m but on the high side. Phosphorus is through the roof, calcium is high as well. Nitrogen and potassium are super low but they haven’t put much down since I’ve had issues it’s been almost nothing but potassium apps. It’s still super compacted even with the ph getting in range. Pulling plugs for the soil test I could only get the probe in like 2 inches. The soil analysis recommended using green start, micro green, and stress blend fert. Is any of that going to matter with the compaction I have? I was thinking of trying air-8 and rgs first. Either way can’t seem to get the compaction under control. Is ph and compaction related?
pH and compaction are not related. You can compact most any soil. Depending on where you are in Florida, you may have a lawn that has soil from a dig out retention pond. The calcium is always high and typically potassium would be low. I would start there.
@@Lawncology how do you lower calcium? Phosphorus can be brought down by ferting with nitrogen and potassium but as compacted as it is, I doubt any of it is getting where it needs to go. The compacted area the roots are not getting into the soil and the stolons are dying out. If machine aeration isn’t breaking it up, what other options do I have. It almost seems like I’m going to have to redo the entire back yard and have the land torn up just to have a fighting chance. Which sucks since I’ve only been here a year and change on a new construction home. Ps builders don’t know crap about lawns and the landscaping company just tossed sod down without caring what’s underneath.
I’m getting ready to aerate and apply gypsum and then some fert with high sulfur as well. My PH is around 7-8. Should I have any concerns with the gypsum and sulfur?
@@Lawncology I wanted the gypsum to amend my clay soil. Yes I have high calcium almost 3 times was recommended. My 21 -0-0 ammonium sulfate fertilizer I got for the sulfur content. And I want to also work on the clay with the gypsum.
I got tiger palletised sulphur, the powdered sulphur seems better idea. I also applied iron sulfate at 1/2lb rate. Will update you on results. Density so far is still not there(TX Bermuda lawn). Hopefully it will improve soon
Don’t have easy access to send away tests here in uk so got a ph test kit off Amazon mixed dirt in water wait 30min dip paper in Match to chart came out at 5.5 ph not sure how accurate that is I have kbg in clay going to need a lot of lime.
I live in SW Washington, thought the fir trees would bring a low pH. Got the test and it was only 6.2. Very pleased since the common knowlege is to lime in the spring! Love the info!!
Thank you!
That is really surprising! Have you taken any test since that? I wonder if you were to grab soil today in different locations of your lawn if it would still give you a 6.2.
Great video! I did find some granular ES and applied this spring and the results have been great in the last 2 months.
Great content John. Glad to see your snow is finally gone. I know it’s still filling in but I’m amazed at how quickly you were able to establish the green.
It’s jumped in the last two weeks but has been steady since March. 70’s are coming next week and will make for dramatic shift.
Great video JP...I've been fighting this fight for a couple of years, mid 7's pH, 17 CEC
Never thought about the powdered version of ES.
The powdered version is nice for low cut turf and I suppose just general solubility. Not too hard to handle, I’m looking forward to trying it through the hose end and backpack
@@Lawncology I'm definitely gonna give it a try..thanks John..
Good timing with this video. My pH on my putting green is pretty high and I was about to order some elemental sulfer. Thanks for the good content 👍
I think this hiyield powder is a good choice
It took a couple years to raise my ph from a 5.3 to 7.0. Grass is loving it. Like the oh meter you use why simple.
It’s simple and works well
I always liked the series, On the lawn with John. In this case its "On Johns lawn with John. Typical Thumbs up for useful information shared here.
Thanks buddy. I have so much to do…
I’ve been using the tiger Sulfur from IFA. It seems to be working very well
It works great
@@Lawncology I am definitely interested on that Cali trimmer, if your buddy ends up selling it.
My lawns PH has been 5.43 . If you dig about 12 to 16 inches down the clay is a grey glacial silt , like concrete . My crawl space under the house will fill with water if there soil saturates during extra heavy constant rain.
The grass grows and is green but can't walk on it till it drys and firms up . I'm putting about 100 Lb.s per. 1000 over the course of this season. I already put 60 Lb.s per. 1000 down so far.
That's super interesting. I know of others that use elemental sulfur on their turf grass, but never have myself. My lawn is at 6.98, but I do want to get it to 6.8... and I use a ton of humic acid throughout the year, so maybe that helps... now I want to go pick up some sulfur! 🌱
Every green I ever dealt with for customers was calcareous sand parent material of this same high pH. It's why I put them all into spoon feeding. Nutrients to the leaf and every batch mixed with humic acid to hopefully complex the nutrients left over in the soil. It will be interesting what this study does over time.
That’s what’s happening here. I’m curious to see if this helps the lateral growth a bit more. I’m honestly shocked at how far the green has come this year in less than ideal conditions. Bare spots are filling and the greenepop, RGS, greenecharge combo has thus far been dynamite.
@@Lawncology I was always surprised how much my green grew under weeks of snow cover! When are you going to hit it with a bit of PGR? Might get that lateral encouragement. Also, I sent my putting green out to pasture. Too much research and work to keep up with it. If I want another one, I'll build back better :)
I'm kinda amazed the green was that high. I wasn't expecting that. 😳
I’ve got a clay soil in central oklahoma and began with soil around 8.1-8.3. I’ve now been adding 25#/1000/yr (in three treatments) and finally seeing results. And no damage to the Bermuda. Currently 7.4. Hoping to drive it down to 6.0 this year.
25lbs will probably get you to 6.5-6.7 this year
I keep fighting the ph in my potted blueberry bushes. Had one near 7 last year, brought it down to 5.5, saw a response. This year it is back up to 6.2. The one I planted in peat moss was around 5.5 last year. Now it's around 7. I have no idea what's going on. I'm not sure how one winter can change the ph so drastically.
Keep some sulfur on hand for sure
Wow, Southern Md. here! We normally are a low ph
That gauge is pretty cool. I might need one, lol.
Hanna has very good videos on using their meters.
We use their meters daily at the plant.
@@Lawncology My tap water is 8 so mine get regular use also.
@@wayneessar7489 mines 7.8. I feel ya
@Lawncology what is the proper ph for a lawn in Northern Washington State.
Would iron sulfate lower the pH more quickly? I need a quick fix without nitrogen. Ironite is readily available at any garden department. I am rehabilitating a small backyard in Albuquerque, NM. My pH has is about 7.5 in most areas of the lawn.
What model is that meter you are using? I read that the fellas at GCF use a similar meter? Can I use it on my customer's lawns on a regular rotation a couple of times a year? Thanks JP! Cheers!🍻
There’s a different one you can use that’s cheaper, it’s the Hanna soil meter specifically. Pull some soil and make sure it’s got moisture and it’s pretty darn accurate. The electrodes are fragile so you have to pull soil rather than set it in the ground
Great video John. My Texas clay has a consistent pH of 7.8 to 8.4. I have had great success with ammonium sulfate fertilizer, and have used granular sulfur as well. What about spraying citric acid on the turf?
Citric is short lived but can buffer your feet in the time that you’re correcting the soil
The green is looking good! I have a CEC of 13 and Ph of 6.2. Would you make any adjustments? I guess I’m good with the ph but not sure about CEC?
CEC is directly related to soil particle size. Increases in OM will increase CEC
I love the Hanna meters but I have an Oakton pH at the moment. I’m just a bit confused on the dry measurement… shouldn’t you be adding RO water? Most every soil pH measurement instruction I’ve seen says to add something like 2 parts deionized water and 1 part soil to make a slurry/mud to measure. It looks like you’re measuring bone dry with a bulb type pocket meter? I don’t think that’s how they’re supposed to be used and may be giving you improper readings…
The soil is wet and reading pretty inline with the other tests I’ve done. The soil won’t read bone dry and the buffer solution I’ve got with the other meter gave me the same readings.
The buffer solution is just for the calibration, doesn’t really matter in this context. It’s definitely good to confirm the calibration but I’m talking about the measurement method. The physical principles upon which that meter functions rely on adequate hydration. They’re meant for measuring liquid, not sand. I’m just saying that if you can, you should at least dump in a bit of distilled water (or DI water if you have a unit) to help with a proper measurement.
@@berniem5763 I’m sorry, I should clarify: I pulled sand prior to this and tested with water solution. It’s why I ordered the sulfur to begin with. I used neutral water when I sampled a week ago and got the same reading. It was curiosity that led me to test the saturated sand and the meter read the same. So, while it may have a slight variance site to site depending on the moisture, it came within a 0.1 range of the test last week in solution.
@@berniem5763 I really should have shown that.
Can someone explain to me, is ph and compaction not directly related? I’ve been fighting my back yard since I moved in (new construction with st Augustine grass in Florida). I have Massey handling the yard until I can manage to do it on my own. The soil is super compacted, I’ve had 3 aerations done already over 2 seasons and have the 4th scheduled for Thursday. Initially they tested my soil with the “magic liquid” test and it showed alkaline. They’ve don’t one sulphur app that was a standard app. This next aeration is supposed to be a heavy sulfur granular app. I bought a soil test kit from yard mastery, got it back. Ph is just within the bars as I’m but on the high side. Phosphorus is through the roof, calcium is high as well. Nitrogen and potassium are super low but they haven’t put much down since I’ve had issues it’s been almost nothing but potassium apps.
It’s still super compacted even with the ph getting in range. Pulling plugs for the soil test I could only get the probe in like 2 inches. The soil analysis recommended using green start, micro green, and stress blend fert. Is any of that going to matter with the compaction I have? I was thinking of trying air-8 and rgs first. Either way can’t seem to get the compaction under control. Is ph and compaction related?
pH and compaction are not related. You can compact most any soil. Depending on where you are in Florida, you may have a lawn that has soil from a dig out retention pond. The calcium is always high and typically potassium would be low. I would start there.
@@Lawncology how do you lower calcium? Phosphorus can be brought down by ferting with nitrogen and potassium but as compacted as it is, I doubt any of it is getting where it needs to go. The compacted area the roots are not getting into the soil and the stolons are dying out. If machine aeration isn’t breaking it up, what other options do I have. It almost seems like I’m going to have to redo the entire back yard and have the land torn up just to have a fighting chance. Which sucks since I’ve only been here a year and change on a new construction home. Ps builders don’t know crap about lawns and the landscaping company just tossed sod down without caring what’s underneath.
I’m getting ready to aerate and apply gypsum and then some fert with high sulfur as well. My PH is around 7-8. Should I have any concerns with the gypsum and sulfur?
Do you need the gypsum? Is your calcium low?
@@Lawncology I wanted the gypsum to amend my clay soil. Yes I have high calcium almost 3 times was recommended. My 21 -0-0 ammonium sulfate fertilizer I got for the sulfur content. And I want to also work on the clay with the gypsum.
🤦♂️ if my sulfur is really low and my ph is good at 6.05 how can i raise the sulfur without lowering ph
Sulfate materials in your fertilizer. It will supply the needed sulfur without making big changes
Will regular applications of humic acid bring down the pH?
I got tiger palletised sulphur, the powdered sulphur seems better idea. I also applied iron sulfate at 1/2lb rate. Will update you on results.
Density so far is still not there(TX Bermuda lawn). Hopefully it will improve soon
did the sulfate and Iron help your turf?
Don’t have easy access to send away tests here in uk so got a ph test kit off Amazon mixed dirt in water wait 30min dip paper in Match to chart came out at 5.5 ph not sure how accurate that is I have kbg in clay going to need a lot of lime.
If that is indeed accurate, yes you will need a lot of lime
Have you considered put citric acid.
No, it works great for buffering temporarily, if I needed a quick shot I could do that.
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Paranormal & Psychogenic Phenomena - Ultra spectrum Classification, High PH. JP Will handle it On Johns lawn with John.