DRZ2 is a pretty chassis, takes a lot of work but it’s worth it in my opinion. Like you said it takes A LOT of work to get it balanced & working smooth but man it’s on rails once it’s 100%. I’m curious why you say our set ups are at odds? I have experienced all the same issues as yours, but I think the major difference comes down to the surfaces were drifting on. I think the benefits & disadvantaged your seeing on the GLD are down to not running the gyro, I agree with you, I feel like I’m fighting the gyro all the time. But I’m starting to learn to work with the gyro & it’s making a big difference Great video, very informative! Your videos are getting better and better each upload!
Default caster and default toe in, it was noted the toe-in/out is different between the two so i will be experimenting with that this weekend as well as round vs flat tyres The high mount makes a massive difference but i need to see if the high mount is the same as the low mount with weights on the back or if the higher CG does actually offer an advantage. significant less tail happy now and the angle of attack is not 50% throttle to 50% steering where as before it was steering heavy and you had to fight to keep it in the drift. great for small tracks but i am going for wide drift
I have been trying to avoid reviewing the DRZv2 until i had a point of reference, it is too easy to say the DRZ is the great without something to compare it to. its not bad but i think the GLD edges it out due to some ancillary issues such as parts supply long term, support (atomics one can be great or bad at complete random). None of that hard work exists with the GLD and done poorly you get a decent car which is why i like it Gyro wise i am undecided, i spent all of yesterday drifting with the gld and tweaking the gyro then after an hour realised i took the gyro off earlier int he week and i had been adjusting nothing. explained why sometimes i thought i was getting results then nothing ;(. Where i am fighting the gyro is the induced latency, with 2 different brands of gyro i was seeing noticeable delay which i did not like and while i could get used to it i didn't have issues drifting without the gyro and it felt more natural. i don't know what conclusions to draw about that in regards to the gyro other than 'more testing needed' i did try low friction (kitchen tiles) drifting and was expecting to need the gyro then as per above found out i did not, the real differences appear to be speed and throttle control and a bit higher accuracy on the steering this is turning into a post all in itself, i need to launch live.blitz.works and blitzworks.racing for this longer style of discussion
I decided at literally the last second to go with 'decision up front' and not waste peoples time based on the drop off times in my youtube videos and i think it worked out well with input from @Auranapse the GLD is back on par with a partially tuned DRZv2 and the problem for atomic is that break even is not going to cut it, they have to beat and exceed performance of the GLD to make the pain of the build and other issues worth it. The GLD with minor tweaks is making this look very unlikely though the DRZ is easier to mount stuff on the problem i have with the GLD is that it went under my radar, i think thats its biggest detriment
You should be able to mount it on the top without issue. The ESC's position is fine actually, I have it mounted in a position closer to the rear and can still fit the top motor mount. Also, I would love a max lock comparison between the DRZ V2 vs GLD, more for curiosity than a defining difference in their performance :D
i have the GLD toe out and the DRZv2 toe in as per default settings, turning left the right wheellock is identical. GLD is tighter due to toe settings. had not even noticed that and explains a bit saw your top mount position and was referring to your footage in the video, why did you chose the top mount? any particular reason? very curious to try it out. was in the middle of reading the manual now that i have a copy again and say i had clearance
Blitz Works I see, try a little toe out on the DRZ V2 or maybe parallel lock which I normally use, don't use toe in unless you're using the mono shock or maybe running 0 caster otherwise the car tends to spin easier. I chose the high mount for no particular reason other than that it's the only car I had that has it, and curious to see how it handles differently. I haven't drawn any clear conclusions yet but at the moment, the higher CG didn't feel like it made a difference, but rather the position of the motor moving further back made the car more tail happy yet less agile because the rotational inertia is different. Makes the car even more sensitive to throttle and less on steering input if that makes sense.
@@Auranapse will give it a go on the DRZv2 but at this point the settings on it are 'ok' and n the tweaking territory. i was trying t get the throttle sensitivity up a bit on the GLD so i may give this a go especially without the gyro this seems like it may be a win. the tail happiness is what is hurting me atm very tempted to try the mono shock on the GLD
@@Auranapse Just tried the high motor position, makes a huge difference car is no longer tail happy and can maintain those long wide counter steer turns i was aiming for. little less agile on the tight stuff so i guess its a trade off of drift (high) or agility (low). for gymkana i would want the latter or small cones
actually i would get both. but if i had a choice i would get the adjustable shocks as you get batter granularity than the spacers and adjusting the preload is like chaining springs having tried to do a spring swap however it seems that both of those chassis and the mini-zs have different shock sizes. more testing is needed but its not a straight forward adaptation at this point
@@steelframe4436 i can appreciate that, what kills me is shipping so i tend to buy a lot of things at once to minimize that. springs are very cheap and i pick them up all the time. i have a box dedicated to them. you cant go wrong with that option and you can always use them on other chassis shocks: much more expensive in comparison and better to do after springs as once you have things set up you are unlikely to change things
It looks like your are not using the stock ESC... but I’ll ask anyway: can you tell me if I need sensored or sensorless BL motor to go with this GL 1.2 ESC... thanks!
both will work, the GL racing ESC is sensorless. most ESC's even if they are sensored can still drive a sensorless motor and this can be useful for testing tl;dr dont worry just buy a motor and it will ork
If you need a copy of the manual, I have a backup on my server:
web.triplette.it/gld/GLDrift_Instruction_Sheet_Final_8-11-20_Final_version.pdf
Life saver, i have all the atomic stuff backed up but had not sorted the GL racing stuff yet
if it becomes an issue to host it let me know i have more than one server online i can chuck it on (side effects of working in IT)
DRZ2 is a pretty chassis, takes a lot of work but it’s worth it in my opinion. Like you said it takes A LOT of work to get it balanced & working smooth but man it’s on rails once it’s 100%. I’m curious why you say our set ups are at odds? I have experienced all the same issues as yours, but I think the major difference comes down to the surfaces were drifting on.
I think the benefits & disadvantaged your seeing on the GLD are down to not running the gyro, I agree with you, I feel like I’m fighting the gyro all the time. But I’m starting to learn to work with the gyro & it’s making a big difference
Great video, very informative! Your videos are getting better and better each upload!
Also how much caster are you running on the V2 with the flat tires?
Can’t wait to see the GL-D in the high motor mount position!
“Keep on building” nice outro, I like it 😼👍🏻
Yup decided on a tagline on the outro rather than 'like and subscribe' , just making little tweaks and modifications as time goes by
Default caster and default toe in, it was noted the toe-in/out is different between the two so i will be experimenting with that this weekend as well as round vs flat tyres
The high mount makes a massive difference but i need to see if the high mount is the same as the low mount with weights on the back or if the higher CG does actually offer an advantage. significant less tail happy now and the angle of attack is not 50% throttle to 50% steering where as before it was steering heavy and you had to fight to keep it in the drift. great for small tracks but i am going for wide drift
I have been trying to avoid reviewing the DRZv2 until i had a point of reference, it is too easy to say the DRZ is the great without something to compare it to. its not bad but i think the GLD edges it out due to some ancillary issues such as parts supply long term, support (atomics one can be great or bad at complete random). None of that hard work exists with the GLD and done poorly you get a decent car which is why i like it
Gyro wise i am undecided, i spent all of yesterday drifting with the gld and tweaking the gyro then after an hour realised i took the gyro off earlier int he week and i had been adjusting nothing. explained why sometimes i thought i was getting results then nothing ;(. Where i am fighting the gyro is the induced latency, with 2 different brands of gyro i was seeing noticeable delay which i did not like and while i could get used to it i didn't have issues drifting without the gyro and it felt more natural.
i don't know what conclusions to draw about that in regards to the gyro other than 'more testing needed'
i did try low friction (kitchen tiles) drifting and was expecting to need the gyro then as per above found out i did not, the real differences appear to be speed and throttle control and a bit higher accuracy on the steering
this is turning into a post all in itself, i need to launch live.blitz.works and blitzworks.racing for this longer style of discussion
Like the upfront decision. I'm the same. Although I tend to love all of them. Drz v1 gave me stress on the build. V2 waiting for me to build.
I decided at literally the last second to go with 'decision up front' and not waste peoples time based on the drop off times in my youtube videos and i think it worked out well
with input from @Auranapse the GLD is back on par with a partially tuned DRZv2 and the problem for atomic is that break even is not going to cut it, they have to beat and exceed performance of the GLD to make the pain of the build and other issues worth it. The GLD with minor tweaks is making this look very unlikely though the DRZ is easier to mount stuff on
the problem i have with the GLD is that it went under my radar, i think thats its biggest detriment
Im in the gotta buy both hole for sure😂,love seeing the community pop up on eachothers videos its great haha 👍
my rc car addiction has to stop somewhere i really really hope
@@BlitzWorks we are all addicts atleast we admit it🤷♂️😂
What scale are those? 1/28 or 1/24?
You should be able to mount it on the top without issue. The ESC's position is fine actually, I have it mounted in a position closer to the rear and can still fit the top motor mount.
Also, I would love a max lock comparison between the DRZ V2 vs GLD, more for curiosity than a defining difference in their performance :D
i have the GLD toe out and the DRZv2 toe in as per default settings, turning left the right wheellock is identical. GLD is tighter due to toe settings. had not even noticed that and explains a bit
saw your top mount position and was referring to your footage in the video, why did you chose the top mount? any particular reason? very curious to try it out. was in the middle of reading the manual now that i have a copy again and say i had clearance
Blitz Works I see, try a little toe out on the DRZ V2 or maybe parallel lock which I normally use, don't use toe in unless you're using the mono shock or maybe running 0 caster otherwise the car tends to spin easier.
I chose the high mount for no particular reason other than that it's the only car I had that has it, and curious to see how it handles differently. I haven't drawn any clear conclusions yet but at the moment, the higher CG didn't feel like it made a difference, but rather the position of the motor moving further back made the car more tail happy yet less agile because the rotational inertia is different. Makes the car even more sensitive to throttle and less on steering input if that makes sense.
@@Auranapse will give it a go on the DRZv2 but at this point the settings on it are 'ok' and n the tweaking territory. i was trying t get the throttle sensitivity up a bit on the GLD so i may give this a go especially without the gyro this seems like it may be a win. the tail happiness is what is hurting me atm
very tempted to try the mono shock on the GLD
@@BlitzWorks Monoshock on the DRZ you mean? If GLD had a monoshock option I'll probably get one just to try and see how it changes the handling.
@@Auranapse Just tried the high motor position, makes a huge difference car is no longer tail happy and can maintain those long wide counter steer turns i was aiming for. little less agile on the tight stuff so i guess its a trade off of drift (high) or agility (low). for gymkana i would want the latter or small cones
Starting to wonder if I messed up getting a drz2. She doesn't want to go in a straight line, and doesn't like to turn when I want her to eother... :(
It's called bump steer
Would you pick the GLD springs upgrade over the screw adjustable shock set? Thanks
actually i would get both. but if i had a choice i would get the adjustable shocks as you get batter granularity than the spacers and adjusting the preload is like chaining springs
having tried to do a spring swap however it seems that both of those chassis and the mini-zs have different shock sizes. more testing is needed but its not a straight forward adaptation at this point
@@BlitzWorks Thanks, I'm just trying to minimise spend, but that's prob a dream.
@@steelframe4436 i can appreciate that, what kills me is shipping so i tend to buy a lot of things at once to minimize that.
springs are very cheap and i pick them up all the time. i have a box dedicated to them. you cant go wrong with that option and you can always use them on other chassis
shocks: much more expensive in comparison and better to do after springs as once you have things set up you are unlikely to change things
It looks like your are not using the stock ESC... but I’ll ask anyway: can you tell me if I need sensored or sensorless BL motor to go with this GL 1.2 ESC... thanks!
both will work, the GL racing ESC is sensorless. most ESC's even if they are sensored can still drive a sensorless motor and this can be useful for testing
tl;dr dont worry just buy a motor and it will ork
Blitz Works thanks! I’ve already got one (sensorless) on order from Garage RC (hi Gee!)
Great videos!
wow i really need to bump the bitrate