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I'm looking for one. Please tell me where you got one.

This many has to do with what people have on hand, what transmitter they use and other factors. once you have done electronics once its fairly easy. putting specific links dosent help the above and diffrent shipping rates make shipping to one person prohiitive while others its fine at a minimum you need: * Motor (start with around 3500Kv or 6000Kv Max, any more is wasted) * a 2 channel or more reciver that matches your transmitter * A micro servo that fits (the AGRF ones i use fit nearly everything but are high end and pricey. nothing faster on the market) * an ESC (ensotech s-waves used to be my fo to but i would recommend a furitek drift ESC these days for most people, they have a store for direct or you can buy from a vendor) * Gyro (optional but recomended, dont just buy what i did its a very specific setup to my electronics to reduce wiring as i use sbus to cut down on cabling) * Connectors for battery/ESC matching. you may get lucky and they just match but i rewire everything to custom connectors with polarity * a small 2s lipo happy to answer specific qustions

Apart from the body and wheels you need all the suspension since the A-Arms from the Buggy are longer and you need the Buggy shocks as well. That should be everything

it is a good upgrade, i found it very hard to go back with the old KT feeling like molasses. really comes down to how much you can get it for and what that means to you. if the price is putting you off you should be fine as is and perhaps think about it in the future when you need to up your game or race others but for just fooling around at home you should be fine sticking with what you have

slipper clutch mods help with the slipper clutch getting too loose over time and able to ut more power down from a dead stop. the slipper clutch limits how much power can go into the drive train but i prefer to limit this on my transmitter. the locked diffs make drifting more predictable as an open diff will suddenly shift on you during the corner as the grip transitions from one wheel to the other, this cut over point is unpredictable and causes snapping of the car in a turn. the locked diff also helps with power delivery on uneven surfaces and dusty surfaces where an open diff wiill work against you adding diff fluid to turn it into a limited slip diff achieves something similar to the above but is a combination of the locked diff and the open diff, more even power delivery on bad surfaces and in the corners but greater ability to take a turn which is what the open diffs are normally good for. it is common to have a locked rear diff and a LSD on the front in these setups. the default shocks on this car are very bouncy as they are just springs (which capture and release nearly all the energy during a bounce), they don't have any dampening (which absorbs the energy and transforms it to heat via friction). this car out of the box is excessively springy and the shocks really needs some dampening so that it does not continue to bounce around after a jump and make the car unstable but instead gets the wheels on the ground as fast as possible and keeps them there the electronic upgrades (motor esc and radio) are due to wanting to use my own transmitter which i use for my mini-z cars but the brushless/sensored upgrade gives me a lot better low throttle control which this car out of the box has little of allowing things like trail braking and just b

@@BlitzWorks dude thank you for the detailed response! I am a total n00b so any information is super helpful!

ebay, 3rd party manufacturer. having a quick look around it appears they are no longer available and i just recently sold off the blue ones

I ended up with similar problems, they dont give good setup recommendations out of the box and this is why i preferred the GLD, there are some setup guides out there and i would recommend reading them, this thing wont drift until you have thee setup just right

the kyosho and the i20 have no compatible parts as they are from different manufacturers. the GT-24 does have a buggy version and those buggy arms are compatible and can be interchanged

@@BlitzWorks Ahh thanks, I assume the buggy was the GT24B Buggy. Thanks mate!

Just random grease i had laying around, likely a 1k or 2k weight (atomic diff oil) i wanted to get rid of the charisma remote and replace it with the NB4 from flysky which necessitates replacing the ESC and servo as well. as for swapped parts its mainly just the tyres with kyosho buggy tyres, some slight mods to the suspension to add some shock paste and the electronics are an ensotech ESC and AGRF servo like all my other builds but choice of electronics does not matter that much.

I have heard the 90mm can be a bit tight and i have heard that the orlandoo batteries may be smaller. the batteries i am using are nanotech 300mah with the eflight (single charge and power) connector

unfortunately not, the wheel bases are slightly different with the GT24 being slightly longer. in addition there is no mounting hardware to mount the GT24 body on the mini-z buggy and would require something custom. it may be diffrent for the buggy version of the GT24 (it would only need to be a couple of mm shorter) the mini-z is much much wider than the GT24 and the wheels will foul on the body r/miniz on reddit does have some examples of custom made and 3d printed bodies being put on the buggy body including a beatle

you managed to sum up my entire experience in a single post. after playing with the 'atomic' series of AWD race/drfit cars i have looked into designing a belt driven buggy as there are a lot of quality/control issues you pointed out that could be designed away. does not help that some mods dont help at all and other mods are extremely sensitive to things like overtightining the wheel nuts i have lost too much time to ensuring each bolt is just tight enough but not too tight

@@BlitzWorks Thanks so much, I know that was a long post, lol. I figured out (yesterday) that all my gear issues were due to needing shims in the stock diffs. All this time, I had thought that it was the slipper clutch engaging (it also can make a click noise) but, it was the rear diff pinion chewing away. three shims later the problem is totally solved (and new parts on the way to start over fresh). I got that Mini-B Losi and it was nice, but no way for inside. I returned it. I did a full send into the Mini-z buggy and ordered the brushless. I love it so much. Now that I have the gears all figured out, I think I will be set with it. There is just nothing else like it. I would LOVE an "atomic like" carbon frame. I know they used to make one I see, but no more. So, if you make one.. let me know!

@@travisharrisphotography if I may bother you - since you got a good hands on with both (and I also appreciate all the details you shared) - did you also consider the Losi Mini-T? It is a bit smaller and could possibly work for indoors.

I was running the tekin R5 pro with the ROC 412 but it turns out i misread the specs and one i was in 'harder' terrin and pulling more current i ended up blowing the ESC and so upgraded to a RSX Pro from tekin which is better rated for the load, you will need the fan and i would recommend a fan on the motor as well. i ended up cutting a hole in the front of the lancia body where the vents would be and putting mesh over it to further increase air flow as i had the ESC throttle the output due to thermal limits the SCT motor is great due to the extra poles so super smooth and lots of torque making modulating the motor speed less dependent on grip as well as helping to break grip when needed. i am running the 3100Kv or 4600Kv motor and that is too much speed (which was intentional) but gives me options. you can either limit the output throttle to compensate or use an exponential on the throttle which gives the best of both worlds (great slow speed control on dirt and some quick high speed bursts on tarmac) the 3200Kv is likley a very good choice nearly all the kit is tekin, including a high speed servo from them programed with the endpoints set up manually in the servo rather than the controller

Sure, i am not using them as i fond the rotational mass made them problematic to run in practice. happy to sell the rims tyres and a set of the plastic PN-racing moster rims as well just hit up the business contact email on ruclips.net/user/BlitzWorksabout

@@BlitzWorks hi. I couldn't find your email, instead I sent you a Twitter DM yesterday. Please check. Thanks!

Honestly at this point i cant remember, for these slower speed drift cars with less powerful motors it is not really needed but can fix up some minor tolerance issues worth doing if you feel up to it just make sure to get the weakest stuff you can get

carisma GT, they do a 1:24th car thats a bit more flexible and about the same on track as the buggy (with the mini-z normal coming ahead on indoor tracks) but outdoors they cant be beat. i have a review of the rally cars but they have trucks and buggies that are the same platform with wider wheel spacing i have also done a motor swap as they are super quick and due to this are much better outdoors than in

Its the glasses isnt it, the life of an alter ego is difficult when you forget if they are supposed to be on or off

@@BlitzWorks well change your name Cuz u tricking people for views

Cuz I got tricked between u and real blitz

Dont worry about the bricking too much, while off stream i disconnected the NB-4 multiple times mid update with no issue it is a fairly robust process. the only real issue is remembering which receivers have to be put into which modes and what pins need to be shorted to do so much easier to update everything all in one go. if you are like me though thats about 20 different receivers (actual number). there isa video or two online but i still needed themanual to pull it of for the Fgr4's

Much stiffer and addresses some issues around the steering setup. when you remove the bottom plate you see how flexible it really is also retains the screws much much better and you feel it in the resistance whe screwing them in (they will start to heat up as well)

@@BlitzWorks thx for the reply! One random question... What reel of wire are you using? The black wire that has the separate wires inside.. I need to get some extra wires for my DIY journey.. Thx!

@@ptpt4583 whatever i have on hand. i have a bunch of silicon wrapped wire i use for motors now that's a slightly thicker gauge. if its your first time soldering then copper wire may be a good option as its slightly easier to solder to otherwise it should not matter much (or copper for a questionable tiny increase in power) use some flux to clean the pads as i found they are all slightly dirty on thee old cars (even unboxed ones, the stock is old) and use a scotchpad to clean the surface rust off first. trust me on this one as its easy to make mistakes when soldering this board an the cleanlness helps prevent bridging if yo dont use too much solder or heat

i noticed that about the screws as well but didnt have too much of an issue. just took my rally car out for a spin and it gets tail happy in the same way (uncontrollable backend slide)and found its about throttle control going into the corner, enter too hard and you wont be able to recover from that spin. try going in a little slower and then applying the power and see if that helps at all

I actually own about a dozen kits but i just purchased an ifixit kit about an hour ago, wish i had seen this comment so i could have checked it out, only issue is if you saw this on amazon US then i likely cant get it here as the amazon site in the AU is not worth the price of admision