Great video I’m a little late to the party. Will this method work to cutting as well? Like cutting the S outline you had for the bank then engraving it? Thanks
Greetings Paw Paw. First of all, thanks for the video. Recently, I bought my xTOOL D1 Pro 10W and, I would like to do this test engraving in Transparent Acrylic of 4mm and 5.5mm, if there is a difference. But, since I don't have a steel sheet, I would like to know if I can use that A4 steel sheet that comes with the xTOOL D1, which is used under the laser? As a paint, I will be using a Gray Metal Primer. Also, what settings should I use with the 10W laser? If you can answer me, I thank you very much.
There should be very little difference in the 4 vs 5.5 mm acrylic if any. The laser passes directly through the clear acrylic and hits the metal plate. Yes, you can use the A4 sheet that came with the laser and the primer should be fine. As far as the settings, I would suggest doing a test grid to get the best settings
I used your method to burn acrylic, my first 3 came out perfect!! Then each one I've tried after have lighter, uniform areas, I tried same design a couple times, and the uniform areas were different areas each time. I live in northern NY and it has been bitter cold, my ventilation is a reversible fan in the window. Could it be the cold causing this?! The sheet metal getting cold and the laser not heating it up evenly? I also have to paint sheet metal outside. Is there a certain gauge/thickness of sheet metal that works better?
If the first ones came out great. Look to see what changed. Lens may need to be cleaned. Also very cold metal could be the problem. The heat of the metal is what creates the image on the acrylic
great technique, can you laser over an old burn or do you re-aply the spray paint before doing another project?? and if so, do you clean off the old paint?? mahalo
Yes you can, just remember the old image may be on the outside of your new image. Also, I would paint it again. On clear glass the laser will go straight through the glass.
Just a question I was watching the video and you and engraved on the outside of the glass so you can feel the edging so if you were to flip it and put it on the back, it still works the same but I’m just wondering if plexiglass and if it is just best to put it on the outside
OK, I was just curious. I know I’ve done some itching on glass and I have always put it on the back but sometimes I forget to flip my image and I would prefer to put it on the outside because I am very forgetful, but I just wanted to make surethat I was doing the right thing so probably the right way is to put it on the backside unless you’re doing something like bank like what you were making it smooth on top thank you for the information
I had someone drop off some Lexan and it is almost an instant. I am going to be doing some practicing on it so that’s why I was asking the questions on this practice, I will try both ways and see thanks for answering so quickly
So when you do it this way, where does the engraving appear on the acrylic? Is it on the top surface, the bottom surface, or somewhere in the middle of the substrate?
What sentence do you use to cut our critic like black red yellow any of it? I have a 5 W laser so I’m not sure what they can do and what it can’t do. Thank you. I will try this settings the 60 speed and then a 40 power. I’m gonna play around with that you gave me a start so I appreciate you.
Thank you for the video lesson. I was asked to review a new laser and one thing they asked for was the engraving ability on clear acrylic. I have never worked with it before so this was a big help. Does leaving the paper on one side work in place of the metal waist-board you use? I can always try it to see how that works. When I have etched glass, I have used black paint which then requires a bit of cleanup afterwards. I may give this same method a try with glass just to see how that works.
I think I might have found out what is happening. I went down to 1mm/sec at 100% and still nothing, cant go any better. I think it might be the fact that the backplate is aluminium, which dissipates heat vary fast, whereas steel seems to retain it longer. Have to check dissipation factors for the two different materials. Will let you know.
You need steel or sheet metal. Also, focus on the metal not the top of the acrylic. Aluminum cools so quick that it will not transfer the heat to the acrylic
@@PawPawsWorkShop Yep. Just did a black paint test, (frustrated endgame move mainly), focused on the top of the acrylic, nothing but the CNC spoilboard underneath, came out a charm, even illuminates well on the LED lamp. But I will get a steel plate and prime as you did and give it a try.
The black paint on the acrylic is the focal point and the heat does the work. Engraving on top like that will work. Be very careful with the power settings. You run the risk of over heating the acrylic and lose detail. It great that you are having success
@@PawPawsWorkShop so... Aluminum flashing won't work that well.. Well, at least I know what the problem is.. Been using aluminum with mixed results at best..
beautiful work as always, thank for sharing. I am using the tip you gave us about using blue tape and AC glue to hold our work piece on the CNC board it works awesomely, can you please post info on the laser you are using mine is way different. thank you. M.B.
Thank you very much. The laser is from FOXAlien. It is a 20 watt diode laser. I have a link in the description to their website. You can get more details there
👍🏻 I have an Ortur first gen laser, rated at 15 watts so the actual output is maybe 5-7 watts. Think they key here is Acrylic and not be confused with other like products and I will muddy the waters with the words Lexan, Polycarbonate, plexiglass. The piece of steel to reflect off of is a new technique for me! Thanks. 😁🛫
@@PawPawsWorkShop I am not sure what happened to what I typed and what showed up in the remarks, it was translated into jiberesh from what I typed! Thank you deciphering what I attempted to say. 😀🛫
i tried this with my ortur 15w and was just either getting nothing or was burning the 5mm acrylic, gave up and engraved something else then came back to it and was getting really good results ??? found out i hadn't reset my laser focus and was focused just below the surface.
I tried this today but all I had was green primer. I painted the metal plate and the acrylic came out pretty nice.except, It left paint on the acrylic. I had to use Goo Gone to take it off. Which didn't damage the acrylic at all. The other thing was that it did leave a green tinge in the engraved areas which may or may not be a benefit. Gray primer would be better, maybe white would work as well. 2nd I had a old white tile that I painted with the green. That worked just as well.
The heat from the metal underneath the acrylic is what creates the image. You do not put harsh chemicals on the acrylic as it will cloud the material or worse. Nail polish remover is basically lacquer thinner.
The wood I used was premium pine however, I would suggest using maple or walnut or any other hardwood as opposed to the soft wood I used. It was 3/4” thick
What would be the reason possibly that 4mm cast acrylic is cracking with your settings, same wattage same settings everything but its burning the acrylic and cracking it. Thanks for any advice
I think that it would work. You will need to test the laser settings to get that just right. I test all the time. You will be amazed at what you and this machine can accomplish
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you for responding! I want to learn how to make things to possibly sell to help supplement our income. My dad passed in February and I’m now the sole caretaker of my disabled mother AND a single parent and sole caretaker of my autistic son. I also want to create an acrylic memorial night light that will have something in reference to my dad but since he was “Paw Paw” to my son, I want to emphasize that. I’m thinking a tool such as a wrench (he was in maintenance) with something in regards to Paw Paw and his name with his D.O.B. to Passing date.
When you engrave on the acrylic, is it on the front or back? Also different topic, have you been able to cut clear acrylic with the diode laser? Thanks as always for you help and great projects.
How about a video of an edge lit acrylic picture or logo? That is something that I cannot seem to find anywhere. At least from start to finish instructions. I just purchased a Longer Ray5 (5 watt), and waiting for it to be delivered.Thanks.
@@PawPawsWorkShop i work with a 30W co2 laser. . . we usually just peel 1 side and leave the paper below. and it cuts half inch plexi very good. . . was wondering if 20W can at least do 2/3rd the power. . maybee cut quarter inch. . the setting was the slowest speed at the highest beam. and we left the brown paper on. . let me know what kinda power you get with the slowest speed and highest power
I tried this way and it didnt work for me. I had it at a low setting 15% power 35 Inches for speed. It came out good BUT, The engraving wiped right off Does anybody know why it did this? Do I do something wrong?
Hi PawPaw, thank you for all your videos, I have an xTool D1 laser, can I use the same setting like the ones you used in this video, also do D1 can cut a clear acrylic sheet 5mm thick, if yes any help on that? Thanks
@@PawPawsWorkShop I appreciate that. But I always try to be considerate of other people's time, including yours. Some people don't like to answer the same questions over and over again. I just spray painted a piece of metal flashing to try this out this afternoon. Thanks again!
Paw Paw, I would say firstly your videos are absolutely informative, very instructional and educational. I have a 20w fox alien and the only time I could engrave on acrylic was to paint it first but reverse the image. After watching your video on how to engrave on acrylic, I tried it and come out Bloody great. Also have you ever left the plastic film on it to protect it from scratches? So thank you very much from one proud Aussie :) Cheers well done 🤙🤙🍺🍺
@@PawPawsWorkShop lol not sure, but I did it on my old Machine with no problem, they are the same machine. by the way I love your video's I've learned a lot from you!
I use lightburn as well and have joined it with a usb web camera. Makes registering your work much faster and just as accurate. Great idea and well thought out presentation.
Ok, that is an aluminum sheet that I primed which this color allows the laser to focus on the color. I often use black and people often have asked if other colors will work. As you can see, yes, you can use other colors besides black.
excellent video I need your help, today I was working with my machine during the day, I have been using the easel carve program. but from one moment to another, it cannot identify my machine and it does not recognize it, I already turned it off and reconnected it to my usb port. It tells me that it is not connected, does anyone know what it could be? thanks for your help
@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks for answering paw paws A couple of days ago I downloaded an antivirus called maleware for mac, I made a scan for a virus that I had and the coockies were deleted, today I uninstalled it but still I cannot connect the machine to the program. Something strange happens, when I press the start button on the master machine, the carving icon turns green, but it won't let me maneuver the machine. When I unplug the USB port to allow me to unlock it, the icon turns blue automatically and we can't seem to find your machine automatically
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you very much for the advice, I'll give it a try! Thanks for your comments and videos, they help us a lot as we started in this world of cnc!
@@PawPawsWorkShop Good morning paw paws, I hope you have a great day Today I downloaded the drivers and configured everything again, I even tried to do it on another computer, but the program still does not identify my masuter machine, could you recommend what else I can do? I really appreciate your time and your recommendations.
The sheet Metal is just a cheap piece that I picked up at Home Depot. Nothing special. Thank you very much for watching. Happy new year. Are you a helicopter pilot?
Hi, Do you use a galvanized metal surface? Should it be galvanized or can I use any metal non-galvanized surface? Another question, why should it be galvanized? Thanks for great videos.
I think he did that, as the engraving is made on the back of the acrylic, the laser passes trough the acrylic and engraves the back (not the front, which remains smooth) thanks to the painted steel plate under it, so the name has to be engraved without mirroring the image and you still get the engraving on the back. I hope you understand.
Why do you need to paint the metal? I thought we depended on "reflected" laser? So I would think a shiny piece of stainless steel would work best to get reflection? I have a 20 watt diode laser (Ortur) and am going to try my first laser engrave on clear (to make an edge-lit nightlight) so I don't want to ruin a lot of acrylic while I'm experimenting as little as possible. If reflection from a shiny surface is not the proper way, then why not leave the brown paper on the back side of the acrylic to reflect the laser back (same as paint on your metal?) or put a piece of black construction paper under it?
It won't be a 20watt laser output... Ortur don't have a 20w diode laser.... I'd say the "reflection" of the laser is due to how rigid/density the steel is rather than just blasting through the paper backing, at the start he just explains a concept of how it works while adding... Do what works for you, just keep testing different things. You don't have to paint metal, you don't have to do any of it, if you got ideas try it. Lol. Lol.
Hey Paw Paw, Great video, I'm looking to purchase a Laser that I could use on Cutting boards. Which laser would you recommend? Thanks Jim
There are many to chose from that are excellent machines. I personally like the xTool and Sculpfun lasers
I'm running the jtech 14w at 70in/80 power with this technique and the plexiglass pops and cracks any advice?
Is this clear plexiglass? More important is it cast acrylic? There is a big difference. You want cast acrylic
Fancy meeting you here Ryan. 😄
@@josharmour1549 lol
will this settings work with a LONGER RAY5 20W?
Thanks
It should be very close. Little test will be needed
Great video I’m a little late to the party. Will this method work to cutting as well? Like cutting the S outline you had for the bank then engraving it? Thanks
Yes it will. You certainly can do that
Thanks, PawPaw. I really love this video. And thanks again for sharing this method for us to laser engrave on acrylic.
You’re very welcome. Thank you for watching
How does it display on a led illusion lamp after engraving, and does it matter what type of paint you use.
Greetings Paw Paw. First of all, thanks for the video.
Recently, I bought my xTOOL D1 Pro 10W and, I would like to do this test engraving in Transparent Acrylic of 4mm and 5.5mm, if there is a difference.
But, since I don't have a steel sheet, I would like to know if I can use that A4 steel sheet that comes with the xTOOL D1, which is used under the laser?
As a paint, I will be using a Gray Metal Primer. Also, what settings should I use with the 10W laser?
If you can answer me, I thank you very much.
There should be very little difference in the 4 vs 5.5 mm acrylic if any. The laser passes directly through the clear acrylic and hits the metal plate. Yes, you can use the A4 sheet that came with the laser and the primer should be fine. As far as the settings, I would suggest doing a test grid to get the best settings
Thank you very much, I will definitely try it out.
Thanks man, I had a perfect result with your settings! Wish you a happy new Year.
Awesome!! Thank you for letting me know. Enjoy
I've read that you shouldn't use a laser on galvanized steel because it can potentially produce zinc chloride fumes, which are toxic.
Yes. Always be careful with burning chemicals
Could I paint the acrylic and then engrave it? Would that have the same effect?
Hummm, interesting idea
I used your method to burn acrylic, my first 3 came out perfect!! Then each one I've tried after have lighter, uniform areas, I tried same design a couple times, and the uniform areas were different areas each time. I live in northern NY and it has been bitter cold, my ventilation is a reversible fan in the window. Could it be the cold causing this?! The sheet metal getting cold and the laser not heating it up evenly? I also have to paint sheet metal outside. Is there a certain gauge/thickness of sheet metal that works better?
If the first ones came out great. Look to see what changed. Lens may need to be cleaned. Also very cold metal could be the problem. The heat of the metal is what creates the image on the acrylic
@@PawPawsWorkShop Ya im thinking it's the cold metal
wonder how this would look if you added a coat of powder-coat paint powder between the metal sheet and the acrylic?
Not sure. That would be an interesting experiment
great technique, can you laser over an old burn or do you re-aply the spray paint before doing another project?? and if so, do you clean off the old paint?? mahalo
Yes you can, just remember the old image may be on the outside of your new image. Also, I would paint it again. On clear glass the laser will go straight through the glass.
Just a question I was watching the video and you and engraved on the outside of the glass so you can feel the edging so if you were to flip it and put it on the back, it still works the same but I’m just wondering if plexiglass and if it is just best to put it on the outside
Over time the coins will scratch the plexiglass. I chose to put it on the outside so that you could feel the letters. You can do it either way
OK, I was just curious. I know I’ve done some itching on glass and I have always put it on the back but sometimes I forget to flip my image and I would prefer to put it on the outside because I am very forgetful, but I just wanted to make surethat I was doing the right thing so probably the right way is to put it on the backside unless you’re doing something like bank like what you were making it smooth on top thank you for the information
I had someone drop off some Lexan and it is almost an instant. I am going to be doing some practicing on it so that’s why I was asking the questions on this practice, I will try both ways and see thanks for answering so quickly
So when you do it this way, where does the engraving appear on the acrylic? Is it on the top surface, the bottom surface, or somewhere in the middle of the substrate?
The engraving is on the bottom. The metal is what causes the imprint onto the acrylic
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thats what I figured, thanks for getting back to me so quickly :)
What sentence do you use to cut our critic like black red yellow any of it? I have a 5 W laser so I’m not sure what they can do and what it can’t do. Thank you. I will try this settings the 60 speed and then a 40 power. I’m gonna play around with that you gave me a start so I appreciate you.
Thank you for the video lesson. I was asked to review a new laser and one thing they asked for was the engraving ability on clear acrylic. I have never worked with it before so this was a big help. Does leaving the paper on one side work in place of the metal waist-board you use? I can always try it to see how that works. When I have etched glass, I have used black paint which then requires a bit of cleanup afterwards. I may give this same method a try with glass just to see how that works.
Verry good 👍👍🇳🇱
Greats from Holland
Wow! That’s awesome. Holland is so beautiful. Thank you very much for watching
Hi.
Have you tried thermal paste to etch on acrylic or tile?
Thanks.
No I have not tried that
@@PawPawsWorkShop
Works great.
I think I might have found out what is happening. I went down to 1mm/sec at 100% and still nothing, cant go any better. I think it might be the fact that the backplate is aluminium, which dissipates heat vary fast, whereas steel seems to retain it longer. Have to check dissipation factors for the two different materials. Will let you know.
You need steel or sheet metal. Also, focus on the metal not the top of the acrylic. Aluminum cools so quick that it will not transfer the heat to the acrylic
@@PawPawsWorkShop Yep. Just did a black paint test, (frustrated endgame move mainly), focused on the top of the acrylic, nothing but the CNC spoilboard underneath, came out a charm, even illuminates well on the LED lamp. But I will get a steel plate and prime as you did and give it a try.
The black paint on the acrylic is the focal point and the heat does the work. Engraving on top like that will work. Be very careful with the power settings. You run the risk of over heating the acrylic and lose detail. It great that you are having success
@@PawPawsWorkShop so... Aluminum flashing won't work that well.. Well, at least I know what the problem is.. Been using aluminum with mixed results at best..
What sentence do you use to cut our critic like black red yellow any of it? I have a 5 W laser so I’m not sure what they can do and what it can’t do.
Thanks a lot for sharing your so valuable trick. With the best explanation of the principle. Great pedagogy Sir.
It's my pleasure. Thank you very much.
beautiful work as always, thank for sharing. I am using the tip you gave us about using blue tape and AC glue to hold our work piece on the CNC board it works awesomely, can you please post info on the laser you are using mine is way different. thank you.
M.B.
Thank you very much. The laser is from FOXAlien. It is a 20 watt diode laser. I have a link in the description to their website. You can get more details there
👍🏻 I have an Ortur first gen laser, rated at 15 watts so the actual output is maybe 5-7 watts. Think they key here is Acrylic and not be confused with other like products and I will muddy the waters with the words Lexan, Polycarbonate, plexiglass. The piece of steel to reflect off of is a new technique for me! Thanks. 😁🛫
Awesome
@@PawPawsWorkShop I am not sure what happened to what I typed and what showed up in the remarks, it was translated into jiberesh from what I typed! Thank you deciphering what I attempted to say. 😀🛫
At 5:52 I had some alcohol, whiskey, but the marks were still there?
i tried this with my ortur 15w and was just either getting nothing or was burning the 5mm acrylic, gave up and engraved something else then came back to it and was getting really good results ??? found out i hadn't reset my laser focus and was focused just below the surface.
Yes, it’s all about experimenting. Little things can make a huge difference
Is this still the correct to engrave on Acrylic? Just curious because I wanna try it.
Awesome project, thank you for sharing. Have a wonderful New Year
Thank you! You too!
Will the laser cut clear acrylic?
A diode laser will not
How about cutting? can it too?
You really. Eyed a CO2 laser to cut the acrylic
How you doing I’m trying to do it on acrylic I sprayed it with edging spray I have a 48oo/50 And still coming out too light
I don’t spray the acrylic with anything. It actually burns the image on the metal below. The heat is transferred to the acrylic creating the image
I tried this today but all I had was green primer. I painted the metal plate and the acrylic came out pretty nice.except, It left paint on the acrylic. I had to use Goo Gone to take it off. Which didn't damage the acrylic at all. The other thing was that it did leave a green tinge in the engraved areas which may or may not be a benefit. Gray primer would be better, maybe white would work as well. 2nd I had a old white tile that I painted with the green. That worked just as well.
Awesome. I love to see people experimenting with different products. Thanks for sharing
Ive been trying all day using a piece of black anodised aluminium as the base plate, no results whatsoever.
Glad you got it to work
Great video. How do you clean of the primer? I used Universal etch primer and i had to clean it with nail polish remover and it ruined the surface.
The heat from the metal underneath the acrylic is what creates the image. You do not put harsh chemicals on the acrylic as it will cloud the material or worse. Nail polish remover is basically lacquer thinner.
what is type of wood you use for piggy bank and what is the thickness
The wood I used was premium pine however, I would suggest using maple or walnut or any other hardwood as opposed to the soft wood I used. It was 3/4” thick
Great, thanks for sharing this. Excellent work.
Thank you very much
What would be the reason possibly that 4mm cast acrylic is cracking with your settings, same wattage same settings everything but its burning the acrylic and cracking it. Thanks for any advice
I have the 3018 pro CNC Router with 5.5w laser. Would this technique work for mine?
I think that it would work. You will need to test the laser settings to get that just right. I test all the time. You will be amazed at what you and this machine can accomplish
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you for responding! I want to learn how to make things to possibly sell to help supplement our income. My dad passed in February and I’m now the sole caretaker of my disabled mother AND a single parent and sole caretaker of my autistic son. I also want to create an acrylic memorial night light that will have something in reference to my dad but since he was “Paw Paw” to my son, I want to emphasize that. I’m thinking a tool such as a wrench (he was in maintenance) with something in regards to Paw Paw and his name with his D.O.B. to Passing date.
When you engrave on the acrylic, is it on the front or back? Also different topic, have you been able to cut clear acrylic with the diode laser? Thanks as always for you help and great projects.
Engrave on the back. No you can not cut clear acrylic with the diode laser. Thanks for watching
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks
How about a video of an edge lit acrylic picture or logo? That is something that I cannot seem to find anywhere. At least from start to finish instructions. I just purchased a Longer Ray5 (5 watt), and waiting for it to be delivered.Thanks.
can the 20W cut clear acrylic??
No, a diode laser will just shine straight through to the surface below. That’s why paint is used on acrylic
@@PawPawsWorkShop i work with a 30W co2 laser. . . we usually just peel 1 side and leave the paper below. and it cuts half inch plexi very good. . . was wondering if 20W can at least do 2/3rd the power. . maybee cut quarter inch. .
the setting was the slowest speed at the highest beam. and we left the brown paper on. .
let me know what kinda power you get with the slowest speed and highest power
I tried this way and it didnt work for me. I had it at a low setting 15% power 35 Inches for speed. It came out good BUT, The engraving wiped right off Does anybody know why it did this? Do I do something wrong?
Does the steel plate have to be coated with grey primer or can it be black?
It should work just fine black
I'm trying to use this method to make acrylic led night lights but the etching wipes off when you clean it. Any suggestions???
Hi PawPaw, thank you for all your videos, I have an xTool D1 laser, can I use the same setting like the ones you used in this video, also do D1 can cut a clear acrylic sheet 5mm thick, if yes any help on that? Thanks
No, diode lasers cannot cut clear. The light passes right through it
@@PawPawsWorkShop
Thank you,
do you have any setting chart to engrave in clear acrylic with D1 (10W) please?
Thank you again
I will have to try this! Sorry I asked a question on another video without looking for this video. Happy new year!
I welcome your questions and will always try and answer
@@PawPawsWorkShop I appreciate that. But I always try to be considerate of other people's time, including yours. Some people don't like to answer the same questions over and over again. I just spray painted a piece of metal flashing to try this out this afternoon. Thanks again!
Paw Paw,
I would say firstly your videos are absolutely informative, very instructional and educational. I have a 20w fox alien and the only time I could engrave on acrylic was to paint it first but reverse the image.
After watching your video on how to engrave on acrylic, I tried it and come out Bloody great.
Also have you ever left the plastic film on it to protect it from scratches?
So thank you very much from one proud Aussie :)
Cheers well done 🤙🤙🍺🍺
Awesome. Glad it worked well for you. The protective coating on mine is brown paper. It’s not clear
will this works on co2 laser machine?
No, the CO2 will engrave directly to the acrylic
On the universal bonding primer will white in color work? And did you use galvanized metal sheet?
If the white paint has titanium as one of the ingredients it should work. I have not used galvanized steel paint
The sheet metal was not galvanized
Hi I was wondering if you could answer a question for me? I tried laser on Acrylic & it started sparking is that normal?
Interesting, I have not had that happen. Are you using cast acrylic?
@@PawPawsWorkShop lol not sure, but I did it on my old Machine with no problem, they are the same machine. by the way I love your video's I've learned a lot from you!
Hi! Can it cut the acrylic using this method?
The clear acrylic no. The dark colored acrylic you might be able to do it. I have not tried it
As usual, this was another awesome project and I learned so much from it. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome. Thank you very much
Wonderful walkthrough, thank you so much!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching
Thank you for the tips and tricks sir. Have a awesome day!
My pleasure. Thank you very much
Great tip! I appreciate your insights.
Thank you
I use lightburn as well and have joined it with a usb web camera. Makes registering your work much faster and just as accurate. Great idea and well thought out presentation.
Awesome, thank you very much
Wait a second. How does this work exactly?
@@smartassdroner739 Getting Lightburn to use a web cam?
Hey, did you cut the plexiglass with your 20w laser?
Great video, so I am guessing by what you showed you do not then have the design in reverse like colors acrylics?
would a honeycomb bed work?
No. It the heat from the metal that marks the clear acrylic
That is nice
What metal did you use?
What metal, this is wood and acrylic.
@@PawPawsWorkShop for the plate underneath that you primer coated.
Ok, that is an aluminum sheet that I primed which this color allows the laser to focus on the color. I often use black and people often have asked if other colors will work. As you can see, yes, you can use other colors besides black.
@@PawPawsWorkShop awesome thank you! I have had some success with black card stock but im not completely satisfied. I'll try this method.
great information. thank you
You’re very welcome
Great video. So informative. I have some letters for banks ready to cut out and now I can try engraving them. Thanks for all you do.
That’s awesome! Thank you for watching
Thanks! Very intersting method!
Thank you very much
Thank you, I intend to try this.
Awesome! It makes for a great gift
Does it have to be gray primer?
I tried gray because that’s what I had. I think black would work also
Thanks.
You’re welcome
excellent video
I need your help, today I was working with my machine during the day, I have been using the easel carve program.
but from one moment to another, it cannot identify my machine and it does not recognize it, I already turned it off and reconnected it to my usb port. It tells me that it is not connected, does anyone know what it could be?
thanks for your help
Has your virus protection do any updates or did it to a computer scan and erase cookies during the scan?
@@PawPawsWorkShop thanks for answering paw paws
A couple of days ago I downloaded an antivirus called maleware for mac, I made a scan for a virus that I had and the coockies were deleted, today I uninstalled it but still I cannot connect the machine to the program.
Something strange happens, when I press the start button on the master machine, the carving icon turns green, but it won't let me maneuver the machine.
When I unplug the USB port to allow me to unlock it, the icon turns blue automatically and we can't seem to find your machine automatically
You may need to start from scratch and download the drivers again and setup everything
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thank you very much for the advice, I'll give it a try! Thanks for your comments and videos, they help us a lot as we started in this world of cnc!
@@PawPawsWorkShop Good morning paw paws, I hope you have a great day
Today I downloaded the drivers and configured everything again, I even tried to do it on another computer, but the program still does not identify my masuter machine, could you recommend what else I can do?
I really appreciate your time and your recommendations.
Thanks a lot mate 👍
You’re very welcome
Great video! Learn more every time I watch one. What type of sheet metal you are using in this video?
The sheet Metal is just a cheap piece that I picked up at Home Depot. Nothing special. Thank you very much for watching. Happy new year. Are you a helicopter pilot?
@@PawPawsWorkShop So any type of sheet metal except Aluminum? And a very Happy New Year to you and loved one.
@@PawPawsWorkShop No I'm not. I was a crew chief on Huey slicks in Vietnam.
Hi, Do you use a galvanized metal surface? Should it be galvanized or can I use any metal non-galvanized surface? Another question, why should it be galvanized? Thanks for great videos.
I have not tried that yet. It should work well. Yes, a mess to clean up
I have a 5watt laser with no CO2 how would you recommend on going about this
You do not need a CO2 laser to do this. If you laser is a 5 watt output you can do this. Slow speed and max power.
@@PawPawsWorkShop thank you so much for the input ill try doing it when my metal plate that I painted becomes dry
@@PawPawsWorkShop still having it crack even at full power and slow speed, how slow would you recommend I have at 350 mm slow should I go faster?
The acrylic is cracking? Is it cast acrylic? That makes a difference also.
@@PawPawsWorkShop im guessing so ill try a more robust acrylic and get back with you
Paw Paw you should consider reversing the name and lasering it on the inside of the acrylic that way the front is nice and smooth
I think he did that, as the engraving is made on the back of the acrylic, the laser passes trough the acrylic and engraves the back (not the front, which remains smooth) thanks to the painted steel plate under it, so the name has to be engraved without mirroring the image and you still get the engraving on the back. I hope you understand.
Hallo can it cut it sir???
I use sculpfun s6 pro,any setting that can cut clear arcylic,cause i try many2 time and it can't.can u help me,im using lightburn also
No, on clear acrylic the light goes straight through the material. If you had a dark acrylic such as black then it would cut it
@@PawPawsWorkShop have any suggestion to cut clear arcylic,such as spray it using black colour..u try for me plss
great info ty
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
Can u cut clear acrylic with a diode laser?
Why do you need to paint the metal? I thought we depended on "reflected" laser? So I would think a shiny piece of stainless steel would work best to get reflection? I have a 20 watt diode laser (Ortur) and am going to try my first laser engrave on clear (to make an edge-lit nightlight) so I don't want to ruin a lot of acrylic while I'm experimenting as little as possible. If reflection from a shiny surface is not the proper way, then why not leave the brown paper on the back side of the acrylic to reflect the laser back (same as paint on your metal?) or put a piece of black construction paper under it?
It won't be a 20watt laser output... Ortur don't have a 20w diode laser....
I'd say the "reflection" of the laser is due to how rigid/density the steel is rather than just blasting through the paper backing, at the start he just explains a concept of how it works while adding... Do what works for you, just keep testing different things. You don't have to paint metal, you don't have to do any of it, if you got ideas try it. Lol.
Lol.
@@qwerto15 I didn’t say it was 20 watt output.
Are there any health hazards using the laser on acrylic
No, but I've read you shouldn't use a laser on galvanized steel.
👍👍👍👌
Thank you
Great video. That was very interesting that painted metal is used to do the etching onto the plexiglass. Learned something new. Thank you.
You’re welcome