Concerned about your attitude. I am 76 years old, and after cancer and open heart surgery I am seriously limited. Switched to electric 4 years ago, switching to torqeed this week. My anglers support group online is mainly retired folks, with time and money to spare. Your videos are great, and most appreciated. Thank you. Now, shape up! 🤨😝😀
Glad this was helpful to you. The attitude was my frustration, mostly with folks who switched from the 403 to 1103 and wanted the newer, much more powerful motor to be just as “Ultralight” as the 403. This video and rigging was one that I put off a long time, similar to the “Locked Steering” video, because I didn’t feel was necessary. I eventually did both because the requests to know how kept coming. I still think that the locked steering rigging is a choice made by someone who is afraid to attempt the foot control steering rigging, not someone who thinks that locking the steering is a better way. After using this pulley set up for the 1103 lift a while, I think that it’s an expensive way to make the motor lift function a little bit easier. It’s better. Is it worth doing for everyone? Nope. Is it worth doing for some folks? Yep. Here’s the video that shows the standard way of rigging it: ruclips.net/video/Up-mzJEF6i0/видео.html
Len, I hope you got a rig that works for you. I'm old as dirt and I have cancer and ruptured discs, so I know where you are coming from. If you want more mechanical advantage there are double blocks from Harkin that can reduce the effort needed. It changes the pull length, but there are people using doubles on Hobie's... Jeff has some great videos, but some of us need that little bit of assistance. Keep fishing!
I have a single luff tackle set up on my install that works great in terms of "extremely light" on the arms. Using the 16mm Harken parts. You can't build a straight or inline pull if you are using a typical SOT and using a crate, plus battery, etc. So you have to rig so that there's a slight angle from the lift arm to the first hold point. My only complaint is that when you rig this way the UL lift arm will flex a bit. Not a huge problem but a bit of a PIA. With a single luff block and tackle you get twice the ease of a rig with to single pulleys. This allowed me to stay with a seat side pull and not have to use "valuable real estate" on the hull that I can still use for attachments, etc. I love Jeff's videos - just adding that if you have a "standard rig" as in SOT with a trunk behind the seat. Consider rigging a single luft set up and route the lines accordingly. You can then still use the pull forward action and relieve the weight/strain. The straight line pull on Jeff's set up is ideal though for straight line rigging, I bet he could use a single luff and not have to use the forward pull rigging. For standing and his set up - I guess in the end it doesn't matter as long as it works 🙂
Vibe Seaghost 130 Torqeedo 403... two years ago I installed. Saw your video of a similar install "Cilla Johnson" on the Seaghost. I used my existing rudder lines... no problems. But... I installed a small pulley to the top of the Swing Arm that the pull rope attached, but now runs through the pulley (fulcrum point). The end of the line clips into the hole you originally put the pull line through. Thus creating a leverage. Works great. For the pull line I did not run it through the body of the kayak. The only issue is that the pulley I still installed, I can not find a backup that is as small. My back up pulley is a little larger. So here's a funky story. I am on the Chesapeake a lot, and you know about crab pots. Well I snagged one trolling. In the process of getting the hook out of the crab pot's rope... another crab pot line looped around the shaft of the Torqeedo motor. Luckily a small boat came by and unlooped the crab pot off the motor shaft. Otherwise... well I was going in for a swim 🙂
I’ve jumped into the Chesapeake to untangle my trolled line from the prop. Yes, that’s what it takes, and out in the middle of the mouth of the Choptank, I was not going to paddle to shore to figure it out.
Concerned and almost offended my your attitude, young man. A 20 pound curl is a high challenge for many older anglers. My support group of online anglers averages about 65 years old. I'm 75, and after cancer and a
I am installing my 1103AC tomorrow. I purchased the pullies, but I am installing it on a Wilderness 135. I keep a large cooler in the back and it looks like the cooler may be in the way of the lift cord while using the pullies. Replaced the 403 which worked great on the lifting but the 1103 is much heavier. How do you suggest I run my line so it does not cross diagonal to the lift pulley?
YakAttack Tie Down Eyelets. Put them on track on the sides of the rear well. They will route the motor lift line around whatever you put in the rear well.
I’ve used a bunch of different ones. The cam cleat with a metal loop over the top is the one that meets my needs best. I’ve gone high dollar on the Harken ones, and bought the less expensive ones on Amazon. They all work well.
Love your videos Jeff. Always very informative. Question for you. I have a Hobie Lynx and am investigating on how I might be able to outfit it with a Torqeedo 403 but not quite sure how best to do it. Do you have any thoughts on the subject or perhaps it might be another how to video you might do.
This may sound strange, but I would approach that the same way I would rig an inflatable. Spreading out the forces applied to that style hull is a good idea. Go find the first video in the Inflatable Kayaks playlist. That would work on the Lynx. I would NOT try moly bolts or other anchors!
It’s not too heavy, especially for a bigger boat like the PA. Go for more power, lighter weight battery (13.2 lbs) and a complete system as opposed to a DIY electrical project that may or may not be waterproof by the time you are done.
Concerned about your attitude. I am 76 years old, and after cancer and open heart surgery I am seriously limited. Switched to electric 4 years ago, switching to torqeed this week. My anglers support group online is mainly retired folks, with time and money to spare. Your videos are great, and most appreciated. Thank you. Now, shape up! 🤨😝😀
Glad this was helpful to you. The attitude was my frustration, mostly with folks who switched from the 403 to 1103 and wanted the newer, much more powerful motor to be just as “Ultralight” as the 403. This video and rigging was one that I put off a long time, similar to the “Locked Steering” video, because I didn’t feel was necessary. I eventually did both because the requests to know how kept coming. I still think that the locked steering rigging is a choice made by someone who is afraid to attempt the foot control steering rigging, not someone who thinks that locking the steering is a better way. After using this pulley set up for the 1103 lift a while, I think that it’s an expensive way to make the motor lift function a little bit easier. It’s better. Is it worth doing for everyone? Nope. Is it worth doing for some folks? Yep. Here’s the video that shows the standard way of rigging it: ruclips.net/video/Up-mzJEF6i0/видео.html
Len, I hope you got a rig that works for you. I'm old as dirt and I have cancer and ruptured discs, so I know where you are coming from. If you want more mechanical advantage there are double blocks from Harkin that can reduce the effort needed. It changes the pull length, but there are people using doubles on Hobie's... Jeff has some great videos, but some of us need that little bit of assistance. Keep fishing!
I have a single luff tackle set up on my install that works great in terms of "extremely light" on the arms.
Using the 16mm Harken parts. You can't build a straight or inline pull if you are using a typical SOT and using a crate, plus battery, etc. So you have to rig so that there's a slight angle from the lift arm to the first hold point. My only complaint is that when you rig this way the UL lift arm will flex a bit. Not a huge problem but a bit of a PIA.
With a single luff block and tackle you get twice the ease of a rig with to single pulleys. This allowed me to stay with a seat side pull and not have to use "valuable real estate" on the hull that I can still use for attachments, etc.
I love Jeff's videos - just adding that if you have a "standard rig" as in SOT with a trunk behind the seat. Consider rigging a single luft set up and route the lines accordingly. You can then still use the pull forward action and relieve the weight/strain.
The straight line pull on Jeff's set up is ideal though for straight line rigging, I bet he could use a single luff and not have to use the forward pull rigging. For standing and his set up - I guess in the end it doesn't matter as long as it works 🙂
Vibe Seaghost 130 Torqeedo 403... two years ago I installed. Saw your video of a similar install "Cilla Johnson" on the Seaghost. I used my existing rudder lines... no problems. But... I installed a small pulley to the top of the Swing Arm that the pull rope attached, but now runs through the pulley (fulcrum point). The end of the line clips into the hole you originally put the pull line through. Thus creating a leverage. Works great. For the pull line I did not run it through the body of the kayak. The only issue is that the pulley I still installed, I can not find a backup that is as small. My back up pulley is a little larger. So here's a funky story. I am on the Chesapeake a lot, and you know about crab pots. Well I snagged one trolling. In the process of getting the hook out of the crab pot's rope... another crab pot line looped around the shaft of the Torqeedo motor. Luckily a small boat came by and unlooped the crab pot off the motor shaft. Otherwise... well I was going in for a swim 🙂
I’ve jumped into the Chesapeake to untangle my trolled line from the prop. Yes, that’s what it takes, and out in the middle of the mouth of the Choptank, I was not going to paddle to shore to figure it out.
Hey Jeff, Thanks for so many informative and aspiration inducing videos. HOWEVER, I am c
Concerned and almost offended my your attitude, young man. A 20 pound curl is a high challenge for many older anglers. My support group of online anglers averages about 65 years old. I'm 75, and after cancer and a
Okay 👍 need to get a few and see what I can rig up !
That “hook” at the lift bar didn’t stay on the whole day. I need to figure out something there.
Just stumbled on this video and def a game changer. Wanna sell any of those kayaks? Especially that shoalie? 😂
Awesomeness
Thanks for sharing
Where did you get that engine protection? Thanks
Innovative Sportsman makes the rock guard.
I am installing my 1103AC tomorrow. I purchased the pullies, but I am installing it on a Wilderness 135. I keep a large cooler in the back and it looks like the cooler may be in the way of the lift cord while using the pullies. Replaced the 403 which worked great on the lifting but the 1103 is much heavier. How do you suggest I run my line so it does not cross diagonal to the lift pulley?
YakAttack Tie Down Eyelets. Put them on track on the sides of the rear well. They will route the motor lift line around whatever you put in the rear well.
Adding a double pulley also adds more length to the line pull which I didn't like.
what kind of cleat do you use?
I’ve used a bunch of different ones. The cam cleat with a metal loop over the top is the one that meets my needs best. I’ve gone high dollar on the Harken ones, and bought the less expensive ones on Amazon. They all work well.
Love your videos Jeff. Always very informative. Question for you. I have a Hobie Lynx and am investigating on how I might be able to outfit it with a Torqeedo 403 but not quite sure how best to do it. Do you have any thoughts on the subject or perhaps it might be another how to video you might do.
This may sound strange, but I would approach that the same way I would rig an inflatable. Spreading out the forces applied to that style hull is a good idea. Go find the first video in the Inflatable Kayaks playlist. That would work on the Lynx. I would NOT try moly bolts or other anchors!
@@TheLittleStuff Appreciate the feedback Jeff. I’ll check the videos out.
Stud 💪
Can we get the specifics on the pulleys to order line and line anchor used?
The line was the standard Torqeedo cord. The pulleys were an assortment of the smallest Harken pulleys available.
Would adding a taller motor pull bar help solve some this?
The physics say yes, but I don’t think it’s necessary.
I just picked up a PA14 360, and I am considering putting an 1103 with foot controls on it. Do you have anyone in Florida that you have trained?
Look up Alex Tejada. His instagram is Bone Collector Kayak Fishing. He can install it.
Would this
Motor be a bit heavy for a hobie pa14 ? I am debating between this one and the Nk180
It’s not too heavy, especially for a bigger boat like the PA. Go for more power, lighter weight battery (13.2 lbs) and a complete system as opposed to a DIY electrical project that may or may not be waterproof by the time you are done.
...LOL! ..."the Janky Way"!
Nice bicep 😂