It's amazing how a turbo diesel Saturn has managed to keep my attention better than any and all automotive content out there at this point. I love this series I'm so glad I found this channel
Exactly. Plenty of videos showing V8s being tuned, supercars being modified and, the most fun is achieved by a guy puting a refrigerator engine on an old Saturn. Weird, but nonetheless true.
Its more or less exactly what would be expected if everything works as it should for this car/engine combo I think. So it seems its working just fine, which is good.
My only complaint would be, that the 700cc should be making a lot more power out of the box. If you look at a 4 cyl 1.4l turbo diesel car engine, they make 150hp, so you'd think that an engine like this should max out at 70-75hp. But this one barely makes half the power. There's got to be some other reason why. More than likely, the engine is tuned (ported) to provide low rpm torque, and with a low compression ratio from the factory (as these engines are made to run 24/7 for years on end, and prefer reliability). For a car, you can increase compression, meaning lower longevity for higher performance. If not, increase the boost, which has a similar effect. Exhaust temps should never hit 1k F on this engine. It might not get enough cooling. Most road worthy diesel cars are required to run DEF fluid next to the ULSD fuel. If this engine has a way to add DEF, it would cool exhaust temps. You don't even need to run DEF (Urea). You can very easily just inject distilled water in the air intake, which adds torque, decreases exhaust temps, and somewhat protects the environment (better than with no DEF fluid).
"May or may not have gone 76 miles per hour"-- Reminds me of my mom's BMW 1800 sedan, which we "may or may not" have gone ninety-five miles per hour with, when driving on the Pacific Coast Highway, back in 1973. Not bad for a car with only a little over 100 horsepower! PS my buddy Fred owned THREE Renault vehicles back in high school: a Daupine, an R8 and an R10... even back then in 1970, they were considered weird cars! PPS can I hire you to pull the dent out of my wife's Subaru? Awesome techinique!
A good scientist is a person with original ideas. A good engineer is a person who makes a design that works with as few ideas as possible. There are no prima donnas in engineering.
you should look into propane injection, its pretty much nitrous for diesel. It will/should cool temps, add power and even efficiency. You don't need special propane either, just the gas station stuff works great. I don't know exactly how to apply it but I know its possible without different injectors. All you need is a way to get it into the fuel line.
Switching to electronic boost control might help with your lag in boost when changing gears. Especially if you were to use an interruption-style controller. That stops the actuator from seeing any boost pressure at all until you want it to. That can have a massive effect on spool-up time.
I know this is just for fun, but actually this setup is not bad at all. 4l/100km for ~30sec to 100km/h is pretty good since I currently have VW 1.6D without turbo and its time to 100km/h is even worse, its so slow that I have to be in racing mode all the time just to be with traffic. I think and also it uses like 6l/100km, although engine itself is very old and injectors are probably gone too.
Next project: put at tesla electric motor at the rear and use the diesel only to charge a small battery bank. 60+ MPG and incredible performance. That should have been the electric car we got. Lowest operating / ownership cost?
An old farmer taught me a diesel trick. He added cheap mineral 2 stroke oil to the fuel at about 100:1. It runs quieter and sweeter. It makes up for the loss of sulphur in the diesel and keeps the pump and injectors happy. I've done this for 20 years in my diesel vehicles and tractor with good results. Smokes less too. Give it a try!
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger As he races towards a future that's wild and free In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger But he'll never back down, he'll never flee In the cantina, where the engines roar Jimbo finds a place to even the score With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise In the dusty roads of Kansas Where the winds howl and the sun blazes Jimbo races towards the horizon With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I really enjoy this series. America needs more guys like you tinkering with stuff to improve what "is" into what "could be" and not get stupid about it in the process. My hat goes off to you Jimbo. Well played , Sir Jimbo An ordinary production car that gets over 55 MPG with realistic modifications that doesn't compromise safety or reliability and is still pretty low emissions. Why T.F. don't they make these cars to sell to the public ? This is EXACTLY why people don't want American cars anymore - I.M.H.O.
I have an additional engine idea for the Renault as well. You mentioned that you would like the GEO Metro 3 cylinder engine, but it is difficult to find. There are actually several alternatives and also some interesting small diesel alternatives as well. One is the Mitsubishi Mirage 3 cylinder. This engine is still in production and makes almost 80 horsepower from the factory. They are fairly easy to find. Another is the Briggs and Stratton/Daihatsu 3 cylinder liquid cooled engines. There are gasoline, turbodiesel, and non turbo diesel 3 versions available. The Kohler liquid cooled diesels are also attractive options, such as the KDW1003, used in the Polaris Ranger 1000. The Canadian 799cc om660 Smart Car diesel is another engine which may be the best option out of all of these next to the Mitsubishi Mirage 3 cylinder. It makes about 40 horsepower but can be tuned to make more power than that, meaning that stock, it would have identical power output to the stock Renault engine. It may be more difficult to get, as it has to be shipped down from Canada, but I think it would make an awesome engine swap. Another weird but cheap option would be to swap in one of the Chinese V-twin yanmar diesel clones. This would be a similar swap to the Predator 420 in the Insight, but diesel. Those engines are also very cheap for a brand new engine with the disadvantage that you have to wait for the shipping from China. One additional crazy idea would be to swap in a motorcycle engine or jetski engine, something with a lot of power at high RPM. Maybe a Yamaha 600CC or similar, or even one of the Kawasaki STX jetski engines.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger As he races towards a future that's wild and free In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger But he'll never back down, he'll never flee In the cantina, where the engines roar Jimbo finds a place to even the score With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise In the dusty roads of Kansas Where the winds howl and the sun blazes Jimbo races towards the horizon With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
You're really showing people you don't need a $100k r34 GT-R to be a car enthusiast and enjoy working on cars, like some automotive youtubers make you believe. Love the content mate. Keep it up.
Not to say thats what you meant with your example but this is on the upper end of "car enthusiast" stuff if you ask me, compared to people with thick wallets leaving their car which they dont know muuch about, other than it was the "car to have", at a tuning shop and saying "make it go fast". This is the kind of stuff real gearheads like, if you ask me.
I can't believe the progress that you've made. Heck, the engine bay even looks nice. At those speeds, you should probably install one of those deer scaring whistles on the front bumper.
@@will7its My Wife was driving, I was in the front passenger seat with our 2 kids in the back seat. Pouring rain storm at dusk in upstate New Hampshire. Moose came out from the passenger side of the road. My wife swerved and we ended up going around the front of the moose, the car went under it's head and neck. I had an excellent view. Lucky my wife was driving, I would have hit it.
It would be interesting to see the exhaust if any smoke is present. A little and I mean little smoke, a very light haze would be O K. Smoke relates directly to exhaust temps. Set up your camera to the rear for a test run, just to see.
I’m sure it’s already been said but an air scoop for the inter cooler would lower egts at WOT considerably by further cooling the charged air. Really enjoy this series, please keep it coming!
Great explanation of what you are doing and why. It won’t stop they keyboard warriors completely but should help those that just didn’t listen to something. As for the ring gap, it may actually be ok for the turbo. I’m not sure about kubota, or if this engine also has a turbocharged option in a different application. Other tractor manufacturers use the exact same shortblock with or without a turbo, so they set the ring gap for turbos no matter if the engine gets one when installed or not. It’s still a generic maybe, but it will give you something to hope for when the egt alarm is going off. 😂🎉😂 Now back to the video
You are killing it with this series! Being in the diesel world myself " Just with an engine with nearly 6000cc's more lol" could I suggest looking into a water/meth injection system to keep the egts at bay? Also what my brother did with his diesel that I thought might be interesting on a smaller scale is propane/natural gas injection.
Water/methanol isn't good for diesel engines and it's a lazy bandaid for proper fueling and turbocharger sizing. He could fix the EGT problem with an equal length runner manifold, but he's using the stock log manifold because it's the cheapest option.
@@GoldenCroc straight methanol causes backfires and pre-ignition. Water has been used for decades to lower egt and make more power, water/methanol does so and adds extra fuel for even more power.
@@brianargo4595 Yep, I know. Thats why I wondered in what way it "isnt good for diesel engines". Seems like there would be some prerequisites he might want to mention?
Think you should add a duct or a scoop if that's how you mounted the intercooler, with it sticking out upwards like that it has more turbulance than airflow and it will do as much as a passive cooler. Air to air collers need AIR, LOTS OF IT. Please do anything to direct some air through the intercooler.
@@Oldsmobile69 Well that's a whole different story, what you're implying is lowering drag. Yet I don't see how lowering ride hight affects anything here, it mainly affects center of gravity, which mainly benefits handling. The intercooler is the only thing on the car that's put on in such manner it doesn't serve it's purpose. That's why it didn't show any performance gains when he put it on. Well besides the shoddy intake piping.
@@icewallowkam2054 Lower ride height gives a bit less frontal area because of tires disappearing into the fenders from the front point of view, I think thats not very significant though compared to it making the air taking another route than under the car, and thus decreasing the turbulence generated by the underside and the tires by a lot.
@@GoldenCroc I don't think theres a point to affecting the cars drag until it's mechanically finished. Besides, it'll be hard to make it more aerodynamic than it is, as the cars shape is already following someones idea. It's an endless loop of trial and error if you don't know what you're douin. It's way easier to give the car a whole lot of down force and more power than it ever needs than trying to keep the drag in such lows.
@@icewallowkam2054 I was replying specifically to this part of your last comment: "Yet I don't see how lowering ride hight affects anything here" and the effects that it might achieve. As for your latest comment, its true its easy to go wrong with aerodynamic mods if you are not knowledgable enough, however a few of them can be safely said to always be beneficial even without testing, such as the aforementioned lowering of the car. So its not really an either/or, its just as the first commenter to reply said, its another thing that adds/stacks efficiency.
Have you considered water injection for keeping the EGTs in check? I had a Scout II with a Nissan SD33T turbo diesel, I ran post turbo water injection for long hill climbs to keep the EGTs in check. I mixed in denatured alcohol occasionally (for fun), made a notable power difference and still kept the EGTs way down. As a plus it de-coked the turbine and really woke the turbo back up. Great videos btw!
The Honda insight only weighed 1900lbs when new, so with the hybrid drive and batteries out bet it’s near 1400lbs. Bet the diesel would go pretty good in the insight.
That's so cool, suggestion, take the motor out of the Saturn and put it in that. I think it's a Renault, it's got to weigh way less than Saturn?? Rap , like GM does on their prototype cars (Renault pain)t.
The Cummins NTC-855 engine can be tweaked very significantly by altering the injector timing. Yes its bad nor NOx, but it really wakes them up. There was a version called the NTA-475 made by Cummins which had variable timing on the injectors......problem was they used a design of mechanism that had a bad tendency to seize up and cause problems.......but when they were working properly, they went 'hard' in heavy trucks. 12psi of boost is way off where it needs to be............20psi at least. Dont worry too much about the durability issue...........that engine is meant to do 30,000 hours as a fridge compressor engine........and its not being lugged full throttle for extended periods of time. You only need piston oilers when a turbo diesel is going to do high load factors.
if i remember rightly you have a 2-3mm lip the whole way around the inlet to the exhaust housing from the mismatch in size of your pipe that feeds exhaust gas into the turbo. if you take a grinder to it and port match it you should get more turbo response, i suspect it will help it make more boost in 5th when you are trying to push more air through it.
What a great little trick to get extra torque on the short side of the Allen key with a nut driver at the 5 minute mark. Must keep that in mind in the future. Nice one Jimbo.
I think it is a result of all of the above. I used to have a diesel jetta, same engine you are planning on putting in your insight. I advanced the pump timing to around 10 degrees before top dead center and turned up the injection pump which resulted in much more power, enough that it completely removed all the friction material from factory clutch disk I had just installed so I had to upgrade, and a huge increase in fuel economy. .
Have a sensible suggestion for you Once upon a time propane was added to diesel to clean the combustion up and make combustion quicker. LPG/propane is a thing in Europe still. Easy way to find another lump of power
“Laughter connects you with people. It’s almost impossible to maintain any kind of distance or any sense of social hierarchy when you’re just howling with laughter.”
Have you got an AFR gauge in it? I think that would be a great investment since you actually care about the ideal burn for peak power and efficiency and lowest egt. Most people rather skip over that part and just throw loads of fuel at it
Nice repair on the Renault! Back in the 70s I used to pop out dents in my Fiat 600 by slapping the panel on the back with my bare hand. Not exactly thick steel.
One thing to consider is when you remove those shims you're not only advancing the pump timing, you're also increasing the duration because the valve closing event occurs later (adding more fuel). Since it runs well I would assume the lash isn't too tight and keeping the valves open. How is the timing gear attached to the pump? Is it keyed? Even if it's keyed, do they mate with a conical taper like on a 12 valve Cummins P-pump? If so, you could remove the gear, clean and scuff the mating surfaces, and advance the timing further (without the key if applicable) and it would be measurable so you would know how far advanced it is.
No. The duration will remain the same. There is zero lash between the cam lobe and the pump even at factory settings. So the pump still follows the same profile of the cam lobe as before, it just happens a little earlier. Lowering the pump, and closing the "lash" does not hang any valves inside the pump. The depressing of the pump followers by the cam lobe just pressurizes the fuel in the system, and then the injector "pops" open when the pressure reaches the preset level. So, slightly varying the "lash", or position, of the pump follower on the cam won't hurt a thing. It'll still provide plenty enough pressure to activate it's preset "pop" setting and send fuel through the injector.
Propane injection. Excellent content. I did prototype diesel engine testing for many years. Diesels have Exhaust Gas Recirculation for a reason. The charge cooler is heat soaked because of the mounting on a large steel bracket. More instrumentation is key and data logging real time not relying on video sync errors. More temperature and pressure sensors. I wish I could see the car in person. You're really pushing that engine hard. Don't be afraid to blow it up. The head gasket is going to be your failure point usually into the coolant passages. NOx is created during lean run conditions. You're not producing smoke as far as I can tell so you're far from too rich. Wide band AFR or Lambda sensors? I want to see that little engine do sub 20 sec 0-60 times.
My old-ish compound turbo diesel BMW does about 4 psi at tickover, and maybe 6-7 at those speeds you were going at, as a reference. I thinks its a pretty solid interval for fuel economy you are in, but of course in my case both the boost and top speed extends far further than your car does.. (for now? :) )
If you haven't googled it yet: According to the French registration plate, the R10 used to live in the 'departement d'Ain', Rhône-Alpes region, roughly between Lyon and Geneva (which is already Switzerland).
Likely impossible suggestion, but what about reducing the turbo boost and adding a really small positive displacement supercharger? Should take care of the temperature issues, and cause a better air/fuel ratio at lower RPMs. The small amounts of parasitic drag shouldn't be that big of a deal, I should think, although you may need a pressure-actuated bypass valve on the supercharger for when the turbo spins up, so that it doesn't become a restriction. ...Of course, that assumes that there's a takeoff point for a supercharger. Alternative would be a twin turbo arrangement with an even smaller turbo to provide early boost.
I just been binged watched all your series on the diesel Kubota. I must say it was very entertaining and I learned quite a bit... this coming from somebody who drives a C-15 CAT powered Petbilt with 700+ turbo diesel HP @ 55lb boost.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger As he races towards a future that's wild and free In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger But he'll never back down, he'll never flee In the cantina, where the engines roar Jimbo finds a place to even the score With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise In the dusty roads of Kansas Where the winds howl and the sun blazes Jimbo races towards the horizon With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I enjoy the whole diesel Saturn series chap. I consider you give it a name so it wouldn't be forgotten by time. I got a name for yours, the Saturn 720TDI (it would be more green for eco-guys with a tiny green "ECO" sticker) But, really, this conversion is astonishing. The Prius did around 40 - 50 MPG The Saturn 720TDI did around 58 - 59 MPG with 720cc engine which modified with a Turbocompressor, an Intercooler, and fuel injection pump adjustment. The 0-60 time is not important when you wanted a car that only drives you from A to B with certain experience of the car. I like cars (well, some of it, not all cars) especially if it had a diesel engine and of course manual transmissioned, but mainly I like trucks (not the trucks referred to many US people, but truck in the whole world or in UK you said lorry) and buses (with diesel engines), so the 0-60 time is not going to matter me. What I personally love about this Diesel Saturn series is the sound of diesel engine, a real diesel engine. Don't convert this Saturn to EV, please.
Excellent video all around! Clear explanation of how the shims work to increase the advance; thorough details of the speed, time, and fuel economy; and fun demos of the mechanical side including removing the injector pump and fixing the dented rear end. I got a good laugh out of using the Saturn as a fixed point for the winch - it's a car of multiple talents!
Why not weld a cooling channel onto the exhaust manifold. That engine by no means uses the whole cooling system meaning that an exhaust like in a boat may work. It would not just reduce the exhaust temperature but the engine bay temperature as a whole.
The exhaust gas temperature is actually the temperature of the combustion gasses inside the combustion chamber. and not the temperature of the exhaust system. Its a little confusing.
Thank you for diligently including metric measures long with the imperial. It's much easier for the rest of us to follow along, especially when there are a lot of numbers being presented at once.
I worked on an over-the-road tractor with a turbo, and an "aneroid" that restricted full rack until the turbo built up pressure. Worked nice for eliminating smoke.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger As he races towards a future that's wild and free In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger But he'll never back down, he'll never flee In the cantina, where the engines roar Jimbo finds a place to even the score With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise In the dusty roads of Kansas Where the winds howl and the sun blazes Jimbo races towards the horizon With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I think fitting a fan under the intercooler, along with some simple ducting to blow air from below, up out the scoop would both pass more air over the intercooler, but also keep the engine bay temps, meaning cooler air temps for the turbo. Even if only slightly.
This may be counter to the direction you are going but, why not decrease the intake Temps through a hood scoop leave the fuel alone and fix the govenor to not pull fuel below 4000 rpm. Then start adding fuel. Love your series. Thank you for feeding our inner backyard engineer. Lol
I enjoy watching your channel and mods. Working all of my life with propane and diesel engines, we have combined the two. The power can be insane, as cylinder pressure can be. WARNING: Propane before turbo is bad for the turbo. Boost reference to the atmospheric vent on regulator is paramount. Master on/off switch coupled to low oil pressure switch is paramount. Adjustable orifice on propane line to after turbo is paramount. All in, more power and up to 15% dual fuel mileage. Just don't go crazy with it as you can lift the head or push out the prechamber cups. Mikel
Little anecdote on the fuel economy increase. I have a turbodiesel Jetta, and most people report increased fuel economy after doing turbo and injector upgrades. This seemed backwards from what I thought would happen so I did some digging trying to figure it out. It seems the common theory is that by making more power, you spend less time accelerating, and that is when you consume the most fuel. Seems logical to me but definitely counterintuitive to what I've always thought.
19:05 you just answered a question I had but forgot to ask...those little truck/trailer/ATV tail lights from the jungle website or the bay of E's almost don't look bad at all on there. I think they would definitely look at home on an older Datsun pickup tucked under the tailgate edge, too.
Just for some perspective, my 250lb 300cc Enduro motorcycle gets just over 60mpg at comparable speeds. It also tops out at about 80mph depending on the wind. The fact that you're moving 10 times the mass with comparable economy is very impressive.
@@robotcantina8957 With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger As he races towards a future that's wild and free In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger But he'll never back down, he'll never flee In the cantina, where the engines roar Jimbo finds a place to even the score With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise In the dusty roads of Kansas Where the winds howl and the sun blazes Jimbo races towards the horizon With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I missed a few episodes... and hooooly this thang is CRUISIN' now!!! Super impressed. By far one of my favorite builds on the internet. Those diesels are a popular swap in the sailboat world, believe it or not. Funny finding a little Kubota in a $60k+ yacht. Even more hilarious to see one in a Saturn. Great work guys!
Makes wonder how that li'l Kubota setup would do in my Samurai? It's used mostly for snowplow work in the winter and farm chores in the summer, along with the occasional trail ride/hunting trip.
I had a 1979 Oldsmobile with the 350 cubic inch diesel , I advanced the timing on it because it would only run 65 MPH it was much easier to advance than this thing. Loosen 3 bolts use a crow bar to move the distributor looking piece with 8 fuel lines about an 1/8 of an inch and it sounded stronger and went from 65 MPH to over 85 fuel mileage went from 16 MPG to 20 MPG
Now add a hood scoop and also raise the intercooler enough to add a electric fan on the bottom of it doing this might even help reduce the exhaust gas temperature as well and also remove the cover over the front grille to allow better air flow to the exhaust manifold to help cool it down and you might consider adding some kind of water cooling system to the intercooler make use of evaporative cooling process.
Very cool love watching the series now imagine putting that Kabota engine in a jeep CJ I’ve seen people on RUclips put those in the old army jeeps. That’s what I want to do. Pretty cool very expensive though.
You need a scoop over the intercooler. The more you reduce intake temps, the more you reduce exhaust temps. A little cheap, janky, riveted on air scoop. Like a WRX, but not as ugly. It might solve your exhaust temp issue. Good luck.
Love this project! I think the next big thing would be hybrid setup... add a couple (cheapish batteries that can unload huge power fast, but low AH) and a electric motor (that also can unload a lot of power lets say 200 kw) and make some thingy (with a button :-) so that you can use it for 10s just accelerate to 60 MPH and then use the kubota for the cruise. Siphon some (could be a cheapish solar charger maybe) power of the generator back to the smallish batteries so in 2-3h :-) you could use the electric again for accelerations :-) Just did some rough calculations... 🙂 200 AH 12v battery for 10s if you can unload everything though is about 1 228 KW in 10s (or 1646 HP). So I think you can get 200 HP easily for 10s with 200 AH battery (or many smaller in parallel) then ofc get a good controller/frequency converter and a engine to match... Homebuilt, cheap hybrid that is fast and really great fuel economy :-) or maybe just get the new Prius :-)
I’m gonna give you the recipe for max safe power for your setup. First step is to completely stop the wastegate from opening and turn fueling up a lot or as much as you can go. At this point you can melt that motor straight into the ground if your stupid. Drive it and slowly lay into the throttle. What your looking to get out of this test is the maximum boost number. You will see at some point boost will no longer rise with throttle input but egt’s will keep climbing. At this point you need to tune your wastegate. To accomplish this you want to find where the turbo will make the peak boost with the wastegate opening at that point. I normally back off the boost till I see 1 psi below max and then adjust it back to max boost. Now you adjust overall fueling. When in boost and full throttle you should not have egt’s higher than 1150 if you want to be completely safe. You can go to 1250 and probably be ok but I would just stick with 1150. Biggest issue you have is that your injection pump isn’t setup for boost reference. I’d bet you max out that turbo before you run out of fuel.
I have a 1992 Toyota 4runner with a 3L series diesel (2.8 litre, naturally aspirated). It does 0-100km/h in about 27.5 seconds (though in good mechanical condition, it has about 650,000km on the odo). You are pretty close to the same acceleration!
The best way to reduce the exhaust temperature is to put larger diameter exhaust pipes and remove the muffler system to reduce back pressure, the higher the exhaust pressure, the higher the temperature will be, and the larger the pipe, the lower the pressure, and thus temperature. Also have you considered an exhaust cooler system? A simple copper pipe coiled around the exhaust manifold and filled with coolant that is sent to a separate radiator can reduce exhaust temp significantly
It's amazing how a turbo diesel Saturn has managed to keep my attention better than any and all automotive content out there at this point. I love this series I'm so glad I found this channel
It’s because watching super cars and generic builds is played out, this is actually unique and interesting.
@@wcovey25 correct
Same. I even went back and watched the older episodes.
Sometimes doing something different is actually rewarded, as it should be.
Exactly. Plenty of videos showing V8s being tuned, supercars being modified and, the most fun is achieved by a guy puting a refrigerator engine on an old Saturn.
Weird, but nonetheless true.
60mpg at 65mph is nothing to sneeze at! nice work, love this series
*cough* 76mph somethig *mhmhm*
Its more or less exactly what would be expected if everything works as it should for this car/engine combo I think. So it seems its working just fine, which is good.
i wonder the mileage it could get if put onto a motorcycle frame
@@oye6124 I heard tell of an off-road dirt bike with a diesel. It’s all hear-say, but i remember seeing 150.
No proof that it happened.... just sayin'n lol
My favorite series so far on youtube
Me too I'm so glad I found it when it started
Mine as well
I want him to get one of the following and toss it into a AWD Vue:
-Cruze Diesel crate engine
-Colorado Diesel Minimax
@@hypercube33 into the datsun!
Same I look forward to the notification every Sunday morning.
What universe is this 3 videos 3 week in row thanks for the content
An engine is just an explody air pump.
I know nothing about diesel mechanics, so this video series has been fascinating!
I know a bit, but its still very enjoyable, trust me!
My only complaint would be, that the 700cc should be making a lot more power out of the box. If you look at a 4 cyl 1.4l turbo diesel car engine, they make 150hp, so you'd think that an engine like this should max out at 70-75hp. But this one barely makes half the power. There's got to be some other reason why. More than likely, the engine is tuned (ported) to provide low rpm torque, and with a low compression ratio from the factory (as these engines are made to run 24/7 for years on end, and prefer reliability).
For a car, you can increase compression, meaning lower longevity for higher performance. If not, increase the boost, which has a similar effect. Exhaust temps should never hit 1k F on this engine. It might not get enough cooling.
Most road worthy diesel cars are required to run DEF fluid next to the ULSD fuel. If this engine has a way to add DEF, it would cool exhaust temps. You don't even need to run DEF (Urea). You can very easily just inject distilled water in the air intake, which adds torque, decreases exhaust temps, and somewhat protects the environment (better than with no DEF fluid).
The intercooler needs to be force fed with air to allow it reduce the compressed air temperature maybe fitting a scoop on to the hood may do it
So... it's time for a hood scoop, perhaps?
Scoob
a definite yup
The IAT is 75deg... High intake temps aren't an issue, as it stands now.
those intake air temps are pretty respectable with the current setup, actually.
"May or may not have gone 76 miles per hour"-- Reminds me of my mom's BMW 1800 sedan, which we "may or may not" have gone ninety-five miles per hour with, when driving on the Pacific Coast Highway, back in 1973. Not bad for a car with only a little over 100 horsepower! PS my buddy Fred owned THREE Renault vehicles back in high school: a Daupine, an R8 and an R10... even back then in 1970, they were considered weird cars! PPS can I hire you to pull the dent out of my wife's Subaru? Awesome techinique!
A good scientist is a person with original ideas. A good engineer is a person who makes a design that works with as few ideas as possible. There are no prima donnas in engineering.
you should look into propane injection, its pretty much nitrous for diesel. It will/should cool temps, add power and even efficiency. You don't need special propane either, just the gas station stuff works great. I don't know exactly how to apply it but I know its possible without different injectors. All you need is a way to get it into the fuel line.
You can absolutely discuss the 76 mph thing. Because, it's obvious that your driving on a closed course, In Mexico..😉🍻🍻
Better placement of the intercooler will definitely help EGTs especially above 55mph.
...and a scoop!!!
What about a NACA duct, hood scoop, or bellmouthing?
@nodrug2 it's begging for a scoop.
I really want to put a naca duct on my cars intake lol
The intercooler is not in a great location but its working pretty good. it brought the intake air temp down from 120F to 75F.
Switching to electronic boost control might help with your lag in boost when changing gears. Especially if you were to use an interruption-style controller. That stops the actuator from seeing any boost pressure at all until you want it to. That can have a massive effect on spool-up time.
I know this is just for fun, but actually this setup is not bad at all. 4l/100km for ~30sec to 100km/h is pretty good since I currently have VW 1.6D without turbo and its time to 100km/h is even worse, its so slow that I have to be in racing mode all the time just to be with traffic. I think and also it uses like 6l/100km, although engine itself is very old and injectors are probably gone too.
Next project: put at tesla electric motor at the rear and use the diesel only to charge a small battery bank. 60+ MPG and incredible performance. That should have been the electric car we got. Lowest operating / ownership cost?
An old farmer taught me a diesel trick. He added cheap mineral 2 stroke oil to the fuel at about 100:1.
It runs quieter and sweeter. It makes up for the loss of sulphur in the diesel and keeps the pump and injectors happy. I've done this for 20 years in my diesel vehicles and tractor with good results. Smokes less too. Give it a try!
Who else agrees this guy’s voice and accent is awesome?
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger
As he races towards a future that's wild and free
In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger
But he'll never back down, he'll never flee
In the cantina, where the engines roar
Jimbo finds a place to even the score
With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize
He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise
In the dusty roads of Kansas
Where the winds howl and the sun blazes
Jimbo races towards the horizon
With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I really enjoy this series. America needs more guys like you tinkering with stuff to improve what "is" into what "could be" and not get stupid about it in the process. My hat goes off to you Jimbo. Well played , Sir Jimbo
An ordinary production car that gets over 55 MPG with realistic modifications that doesn't compromise safety or reliability and is still pretty low emissions. Why T.F. don't they make these cars to sell to the public ? This is EXACTLY why people don't want American cars anymore - I.M.H.O.
I have an additional engine idea for the Renault as well. You mentioned that you would like the GEO Metro 3 cylinder engine, but it is difficult to find. There are actually several alternatives and also some interesting small diesel alternatives as well. One is the Mitsubishi Mirage 3 cylinder. This engine is still in production and makes almost 80 horsepower from the factory. They are fairly easy to find. Another is the Briggs and Stratton/Daihatsu 3 cylinder liquid cooled engines. There are gasoline, turbodiesel, and non turbo diesel 3 versions available. The Kohler liquid cooled diesels are also attractive options, such as the KDW1003, used in the Polaris Ranger 1000. The Canadian 799cc om660 Smart Car diesel is another engine which may be the best option out of all of these next to the Mitsubishi Mirage 3 cylinder. It makes about 40 horsepower but can be tuned to make more power than that, meaning that stock, it would have identical power output to the stock Renault engine. It may be more difficult to get, as it has to be shipped down from Canada, but I think it would make an awesome engine swap. Another weird but cheap option would be to swap in one of the Chinese V-twin yanmar diesel clones. This would be a similar swap to the Predator 420 in the Insight, but diesel. Those engines are also very cheap for a brand new engine with the disadvantage that you have to wait for the shipping from China. One additional crazy idea would be to swap in a motorcycle engine or jetski engine, something with a lot of power at high RPM. Maybe a Yamaha 600CC or similar, or even one of the Kawasaki STX jetski engines.
The amount of effort you put into these videos is always amazing.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger
As he races towards a future that's wild and free
In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger
But he'll never back down, he'll never flee
In the cantina, where the engines roar
Jimbo finds a place to even the score
With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize
He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise
In the dusty roads of Kansas
Where the winds howl and the sun blazes
Jimbo races towards the horizon
With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
@@mommapanda5736 Shiny and Chrome!
I appreciate your gentle and family friendly delivery. I really like this particular series.
You're really showing people you don't need a $100k r34 GT-R to be a car enthusiast and enjoy working on cars, like some automotive youtubers make you believe.
Love the content mate. Keep it up.
Not to say thats what you meant with your example but this is on the upper end of "car enthusiast" stuff if you ask me, compared to people with thick wallets leaving their car which they dont know muuch about, other than it was the "car to have", at a tuning shop and saying "make it go fast". This is the kind of stuff real gearheads like, if you ask me.
@@GoldenCroc Yep, fair.
I can't believe the progress that you've made. Heck, the engine bay even looks nice. At those speeds, you should probably install one of those deer scaring whistles on the front bumper.
I will never forget a very close encounter with a moose in our saturn years ago. One of those whistles things might be a good call....LOL
Those don't work
@@lancecluster Did you drive between its legs???🤣
@@will7its My Wife was driving, I was in the front passenger seat with our 2 kids in the back seat. Pouring rain storm at dusk in upstate New Hampshire. Moose came out from the passenger side of the road. My wife swerved and we ended up going around the front of the moose, the car went under it's head and neck. I had an excellent view. Lucky my wife was driving, I would have hit it.
@@lancecluster Yeah Its usually better to not swerve. Glad you made it. Good story...lol
It would be interesting to see the exhaust if any smoke is present. A little and I mean little smoke, a very light haze would be O K. Smoke relates directly to exhaust temps. Set up your camera to the rear for a test run, just to see.
Improving the fuel economy whole increasing the cruising speed 4mph is phenomenal.
A VGT turbo will help lots with boost
I’m sure it’s already been said but an air scoop for the inter cooler would lower egts at WOT considerably by further cooling the charged air.
Really enjoy this series, please keep it coming!
Methanol injection would help and or maybe propane injection
Great explanation of what you are doing and why. It won’t stop they keyboard warriors completely but should help those that just didn’t listen to something.
As for the ring gap, it may actually be ok for the turbo. I’m not sure about kubota, or if this engine also has a turbocharged option in a different application. Other tractor manufacturers use the exact same shortblock with or without a turbo, so they set the ring gap for turbos no matter if the engine gets one when installed or not.
It’s still a generic maybe, but it will give you something to hope for when the egt alarm is going off. 😂🎉😂
Now back to the video
You are killing it with this series! Being in the diesel world myself " Just with an engine with nearly 6000cc's more lol" could I suggest looking into a water/meth injection system to keep the egts at bay? Also what my brother did with his diesel that I thought might be interesting on a smaller scale is propane/natural gas injection.
Water/methanol isn't good for diesel engines and it's a lazy bandaid for proper fueling and turbocharger sizing. He could fix the EGT problem with an equal length runner manifold, but he's using the stock log manifold because it's the cheapest option.
@@JosephArata WHy isnt it good for them, if I may ask?
@@GoldenCroc straight methanol causes backfires and pre-ignition. Water has been used for decades to lower egt and make more power, water/methanol does so and adds extra fuel for even more power.
@Joseph Arata how does runner length effect egt? I'm confused
@@brianargo4595 Yep, I know. Thats why I wondered in what way it "isnt good for diesel engines". Seems like there would be some prerequisites he might want to mention?
That hood screams for nice scoop for air flow to ic 👌
One minute in, so this is what a life complete feels like...
Well, it's race-worthy for a 2CV6 now, just need to find one and take it to the drag strip... :P
Think you should add a duct or a scoop if that's how you mounted the intercooler, with it sticking out upwards like that it has more turbulance than airflow and it will do as much as a passive cooler. Air to air collers need AIR, LOTS OF IT. Please do anything to direct some air through the intercooler.
Also lowering the car, putting a smooth bottom, front air dam and getting skinnier tires would really help too.
@@Oldsmobile69 Well that's a whole different story, what you're implying is lowering drag. Yet I don't see how lowering ride hight affects anything here, it mainly affects center of gravity, which mainly benefits handling. The intercooler is the only thing on the car that's put on in such manner it doesn't serve it's purpose. That's why it didn't show any performance gains when he put it on. Well besides the shoddy intake piping.
@@icewallowkam2054 Lower ride height gives a bit less frontal area because of tires disappearing into the fenders from the front point of view, I think thats not very significant though compared to it making the air taking another route than under the car, and thus decreasing the turbulence generated by the underside and the tires by a lot.
@@GoldenCroc I don't think theres a point to affecting the cars drag until it's mechanically finished. Besides, it'll be hard to make it more aerodynamic than it is, as the cars shape is already following someones idea. It's an endless loop of trial and error if you don't know what you're douin. It's way easier to give the car a whole lot of down force and more power than it ever needs than trying to keep the drag in such lows.
@@icewallowkam2054 I was replying specifically to this part of your last comment: "Yet I don't see how lowering ride hight affects anything here" and the effects that it might achieve.
As for your latest comment, its true its easy to go wrong with aerodynamic mods if you are not knowledgable enough, however a few of them can be safely said to always be beneficial even without testing, such as the aforementioned lowering of the car. So its not really an either/or, its just as the first commenter to reply said, its another thing that adds/stacks efficiency.
Have you considered water injection for keeping the EGTs in check? I had a Scout II with a Nissan SD33T turbo diesel, I ran post turbo water injection for long hill climbs to keep the EGTs in check. I mixed in denatured alcohol occasionally (for fun), made a notable power difference and still kept the EGTs way down. As a plus it de-coked the turbine and really woke the turbo back up. Great videos btw!
The wheel bearing sound adds an awesome level of rising intensity
Sounds exactly like an old commercial propeller commuter aircraft...
Now imagine how zippy that engine would feel in a lighter chassis, like, say, an old French car.
2cv!
At just over 2000lbs..you wont get much lighter is the USA. I mean sure if a shoe box had wheels it would zoom lol
The Honda insight only weighed 1900lbs when new, so with the hybrid drive and batteries out bet it’s near 1400lbs. Bet the diesel would go pretty good in the insight.
Most Kansas farm boys can weld . Maybe consider an ultra light home frame, and the best aerodynamics possible.
It’s wild to me that a Saturn powered by an industrial diesel engine is probably one of the best car build series on RUclips right now.
I don’t think I’m alone in saying thank. You’re inspiring our imaginations. I think all that’s missing is a good scoop!
That's so cool, suggestion, take the motor out of the Saturn and put it in that. I think it's a Renault, it's got to weigh way less than Saturn?? Rap , like GM does on their prototype cars (Renault pain)t.
The Cummins NTC-855 engine can be tweaked very significantly by altering the injector timing. Yes its bad nor NOx, but it really wakes them up. There was a version called the NTA-475 made by Cummins which had variable timing on the injectors......problem was they used a design of mechanism that had a bad tendency to seize up and cause problems.......but when they were working properly, they went 'hard' in heavy trucks. 12psi of boost is way off where it needs to be............20psi at least. Dont worry too much about the durability issue...........that engine is meant to do 30,000 hours as a fridge compressor engine........and its not being lugged full throttle for extended periods of time. You only need piston oilers when a turbo diesel is going to do high load factors.
if i remember rightly you have a 2-3mm lip the whole way around the inlet to the exhaust housing from the mismatch in size of your pipe that feeds exhaust gas into the turbo. if you take a grinder to it and port match it you should get more turbo response, i suspect it will help it make more boost in 5th when you are trying to push more air through it.
Can't wait for him to swap a tractor engine in that saturn
What a great little trick to get extra torque on the short side of the Allen key with a nut driver at the 5 minute mark. Must keep that in mind in the future. Nice one Jimbo.
That was a gorgeous dent pull out. You have a real mastery with cars. They seem to let you work on them the way some people can get horses to comply.
I think it is a result of all of the above. I used to have a diesel jetta, same engine you are planning on putting in your insight. I advanced the pump timing to around 10 degrees before top dead center and turned up the injection pump which resulted in much more power, enough that it completely removed all the friction material from factory clutch disk I had just installed so I had to upgrade, and a huge increase in fuel economy. .
Have a sensible suggestion for you
Once upon a time propane was added to diesel to clean the combustion up and make combustion quicker.
LPG/propane is a thing in Europe still.
Easy way to find another lump of power
Enough for me. I used to enjoy this thing to get to work for years
Let max this thing out 12psi full fuel let’s open up the exhaust 3inch turbo back no muffler
“Laughter connects you with people. It’s almost impossible to maintain any kind of distance or any sense of social hierarchy when you’re just howling with laughter.”
Have you got an AFR gauge in it? I think that would be a great investment since you actually care about the ideal burn for peak power and efficiency and lowest egt. Most people rather skip over that part and just throw loads of fuel at it
Nice repair on the Renault! Back in the 70s I used to pop out dents in my Fiat 600 by slapping the panel on the back with my bare hand. Not exactly thick steel.
One thing to consider is when you remove those shims you're not only advancing the pump timing, you're also increasing the duration because the valve closing event occurs later (adding more fuel). Since it runs well I would assume the lash isn't too tight and keeping the valves open. How is the timing gear attached to the pump? Is it keyed? Even if it's keyed, do they mate with a conical taper like on a 12 valve Cummins P-pump? If so, you could remove the gear, clean and scuff the mating surfaces, and advance the timing further (without the key if applicable) and it would be measurable so you would know how far advanced it is.
No. The duration will remain the same. There is zero lash between the cam lobe and the pump even at factory settings. So the pump still follows the same profile of the cam lobe as before, it just happens a little earlier.
Lowering the pump, and closing the "lash" does not hang any valves inside the pump. The depressing of the pump followers by the cam lobe just pressurizes the fuel in the system, and then the injector "pops" open when the pressure reaches the preset level.
So, slightly varying the "lash", or position, of the pump follower on the cam won't hurt a thing. It'll still provide plenty enough pressure to activate it's preset "pop" setting and send fuel through the injector.
Propane injection. Excellent content. I did prototype diesel engine testing for many years. Diesels have Exhaust Gas Recirculation for a reason. The charge cooler is heat soaked because of the mounting on a large steel bracket. More instrumentation is key and data logging real time not relying on video sync errors. More temperature and pressure sensors. I wish I could see the car in person. You're really pushing that engine hard. Don't be afraid to blow it up.
The head gasket is going to be your failure point usually into the coolant passages. NOx is created during lean run conditions. You're not producing smoke as far as I can tell so you're far from too rich. Wide band AFR or Lambda sensors? I want to see that little engine do sub 20 sec 0-60 times.
My old-ish compound turbo diesel BMW does about 4 psi at tickover, and maybe 6-7 at those speeds you were going at, as a reference. I thinks its a pretty solid interval for fuel economy you are in, but of course in my case both the boost and top speed extends far further than your car does.. (for now? :) )
If you haven't googled it yet:
According to the French registration plate, the R10 used to live in the 'departement d'Ain', Rhône-Alpes region, roughly between Lyon and Geneva (which is already Switzerland).
Likely impossible suggestion, but what about reducing the turbo boost and adding a really small positive displacement supercharger? Should take care of the temperature issues, and cause a better air/fuel ratio at lower RPMs. The small amounts of parasitic drag shouldn't be that big of a deal, I should think, although you may need a pressure-actuated bypass valve on the supercharger for when the turbo spins up, so that it doesn't become a restriction.
...Of course, that assumes that there's a takeoff point for a supercharger. Alternative would be a twin turbo arrangement with an even smaller turbo to provide early boost.
Other thought would be some way to dynamically restrict fuel more at lower RPMs - but my ideas here could kill the really expensive pump.
Thanks for letting everyone tag along today. You've nailed the curious factor on this channel.
“The trick to having good ideas is not to sit around in glorious isolation and try to think big thoughts. The trick is to get more parts on the table.
I just been binged watched all your series on the diesel Kubota. I must say it was very entertaining and I learned quite a bit... this coming from somebody who drives a C-15 CAT powered Petbilt with 700+ turbo diesel HP @ 55lb boost.
Put a hood scoop on that thing
Projects we have completed demonstrate what we know - future projects decide what we will learn.
76mph great job professor! I heard one of these refer diesel engine trailers rattling away next door to a Whataburger and I thought of this project.
My man, the editing in this video is the best I've seen from your team. Bravo.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger
As he races towards a future that's wild and free
In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger
But he'll never back down, he'll never flee
In the cantina, where the engines roar
Jimbo finds a place to even the score
With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize
He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise
In the dusty roads of Kansas
Where the winds howl and the sun blazes
Jimbo races towards the horizon
With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I enjoy the whole diesel Saturn series chap. I consider you give it a name so it wouldn't be forgotten by time. I got a name for yours, the Saturn 720TDI (it would be more green for eco-guys with a tiny green "ECO" sticker)
But, really, this conversion is astonishing.
The Prius did around 40 - 50 MPG
The Saturn 720TDI did around 58 - 59 MPG with 720cc engine which modified with a Turbocompressor, an Intercooler, and fuel injection pump adjustment.
The 0-60 time is not important when you wanted a car that only drives you from A to B with certain experience of the car.
I like cars (well, some of it, not all cars) especially if it had a diesel engine and of course manual transmissioned, but mainly I like trucks (not the trucks referred to many US people, but truck in the whole world or in UK you said lorry) and buses (with diesel engines), so the 0-60 time is not going to matter me.
What I personally love about this Diesel Saturn series is the sound of diesel engine, a real diesel engine.
Don't convert this Saturn to EV, please.
Excellent video all around! Clear explanation of how the shims work to increase the advance; thorough details of the speed, time, and fuel economy; and fun demos of the mechanical side including removing the injector pump and fixing the dented rear end. I got a good laugh out of using the Saturn as a fixed point for the winch - it's a car of multiple talents!
Why not weld a cooling channel onto the exhaust manifold. That engine by no means uses the whole cooling system meaning that an exhaust like in a boat may work. It would not just reduce the exhaust temperature but the engine bay temperature as a whole.
The exhaust gas temperature is actually the temperature of the combustion gasses inside the combustion chamber. and not the temperature of the exhaust system. Its a little confusing.
This is such a fun experiment. Getting to see how all the engine parameters work in the real world.
Thank you for diligently including metric measures long with the imperial. It's much easier for the rest of us to follow along, especially when there are a lot of numbers being presented at once.
I thought you were pretty clear why you increased the boost without fuel last episode. That's why I like the channel. You're very thorough.
I worked on an over-the-road tractor with a turbo, and an "aneroid" that restricted full rack until the turbo built up pressure. Worked nice for eliminating smoke.
turbo dont wind up as quick though
Make a hood scoop over that hole in the hood. My guess it will keep things cooler if only slightly. Love the videos. Thanks.
MORE BOOST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love the engine modifications and all, but sometimes I just come for the uplifting music.
With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger
As he races towards a future that's wild and free
In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger
But he'll never back down, he'll never flee
In the cantina, where the engines roar
Jimbo finds a place to even the score
With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize
He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise
In the dusty roads of Kansas
Where the winds howl and the sun blazes
Jimbo races towards the horizon
With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
Boost controller !
I think fitting a fan under the intercooler, along with some simple ducting to blow air from below, up out the scoop would both pass more air over the intercooler, but also keep the engine bay temps, meaning cooler air temps for the turbo. Even if only slightly.
That epic dent removal process was worthy of it's own RUclips short!
This may be counter to the direction you are going but, why not decrease the intake Temps through a hood scoop leave the fuel alone and fix the govenor to not pull fuel below 4000 rpm. Then start adding fuel. Love your series. Thank you for feeding our inner backyard engineer. Lol
I enjoy watching your channel and mods. Working all of my life with propane and diesel engines, we have combined the two. The power can be insane, as cylinder pressure can be. WARNING: Propane before turbo is bad for the turbo. Boost reference to the atmospheric vent on regulator is paramount. Master on/off switch coupled to low oil pressure switch is paramount. Adjustable orifice on propane line to after turbo is paramount.
All in, more power and up to 15% dual fuel mileage. Just don't go crazy with it as you can lift the head or push out the prechamber cups.
Mikel
Little anecdote on the fuel economy increase. I have a turbodiesel Jetta, and most people report increased fuel economy after doing turbo and injector upgrades. This seemed backwards from what I thought would happen so I did some digging trying to figure it out. It seems the common theory is that by making more power, you spend less time accelerating, and that is when you consume the most fuel. Seems logical to me but definitely counterintuitive to what I've always thought.
19:05 you just answered a question I had but forgot to ask...those little truck/trailer/ATV tail lights from the jungle website or the bay of E's almost don't look bad at all on there. I think they would definitely look at home on an older Datsun pickup tucked under the tailgate edge, too.
Good job on the repair of the Renault. Can't wait to see this project as well as the insight project.
5:19 All I can think when you talk about temps is, "Why?! What happens when it hits 2000?!" "The whole boiler explodes!"
I get so excited when i see your vids pop up
76 alleged m p h"s?!
Just for some perspective, my 250lb 300cc Enduro motorcycle gets just over 60mpg at comparable speeds. It also tops out at about 80mph depending on the wind. The fact that you're moving 10 times the mass with comparable economy is very impressive.
Man you got to put some Fast and Furious clips in the videos when you’re building boost. I want to see “danger to manifold” on the screen.
LOL.... that would be epic.
@@robotcantina8957 With every subscriber, Jimbo's spirit grows stronger
As he races towards a future that's wild and free
In this world of metal and fire, he's the lone ranger
But he'll never back down, he'll never flee
In the cantina, where the engines roar
Jimbo finds a place to even the score
With his foot on the pedal, and his eyes on the prize
He'll ride to the limit, until the sunrise
In the dusty roads of Kansas
Where the winds howl and the sun blazes
Jimbo races towards the horizon
With the hope of a new adventure, a new season.
I missed a few episodes... and hooooly this thang is CRUISIN' now!!! Super impressed. By far one of my favorite builds on the internet. Those diesels are a popular swap in the sailboat world, believe it or not. Funny finding a little Kubota in a $60k+ yacht. Even more hilarious to see one in a Saturn. Great work guys!
ELECTRIFY THE RENAULT. It's time for a new Henney Kilowatt!
Makes wonder how that li'l Kubota setup would do in my Samurai? It's used mostly for snowplow work in the winter and farm chores in the summer, along with the occasional trail ride/hunting trip.
I had a 1979 Oldsmobile with the 350 cubic inch diesel , I advanced the timing on it because it would only run 65 MPH it was much easier to advance than this thing. Loosen 3 bolts use a crow bar to move the distributor looking piece with 8 fuel lines about an 1/8 of an inch and it sounded stronger and went from 65 MPH to over 85 fuel mileage went from 16 MPG to 20 MPG
I like the new format. More scientific. I hope you keep this!!!
Nice body work at the end there! Major improvement.
Water/ methanol injection would definitely keep the egt in check and add a little extra power
Now add a hood scoop and also raise the intercooler enough to add a electric fan on the bottom of it doing this might even help reduce the exhaust gas temperature as well and also remove the cover over the front grille to allow better air flow to the exhaust manifold to help cool it down and you might consider adding some kind of water cooling system to the intercooler make use of evaporative cooling process.
Very cool love watching the series now imagine putting that Kabota engine in a jeep CJ I’ve seen people on RUclips put those in the old army jeeps. That’s what I want to do. Pretty cool very expensive though.
You need a scoop over the intercooler. The more you reduce intake temps, the more you reduce exhaust temps. A little cheap, janky, riveted on air scoop. Like a WRX, but not as ugly. It might solve your exhaust temp issue. Good luck.
Love this project! I think the next big thing would be hybrid setup... add a couple (cheapish batteries that can unload huge power fast, but low AH) and a electric motor (that also can unload a lot of power lets say 200 kw) and make some thingy (with a button :-) so that you can use it for 10s just accelerate to 60 MPH and then use the kubota for the cruise. Siphon some (could be a cheapish solar charger maybe) power of the generator back to the smallish batteries so in 2-3h :-) you could use the electric again for accelerations :-)
Just did some rough calculations... 🙂
200 AH 12v battery for 10s if you can unload everything though is about 1 228 KW in 10s (or 1646 HP).
So I think you can get 200 HP easily for 10s with 200 AH battery (or many smaller in parallel) then ofc get a good controller/frequency converter and a engine to match...
Homebuilt, cheap hybrid that is fast and really great fuel economy :-) or maybe just get the new Prius :-)
I’m gonna give you the recipe for max safe power for your setup. First step is to completely stop the wastegate from opening and turn fueling up a lot or as much as you can go. At this point you can melt that motor straight into the ground if your stupid. Drive it and slowly lay into the throttle. What your looking to get out of this test is the maximum boost number. You will see at some point boost will no longer rise with throttle input but egt’s will keep climbing. At this point you need to tune your wastegate. To accomplish this you want to find where the turbo will make the peak boost with the wastegate opening at that point. I normally back off the boost till I see 1 psi below max and then adjust it back to max boost. Now you adjust overall fueling. When in boost and full throttle you should not have egt’s higher than 1150 if you want to be completely safe. You can go to 1250 and probably be ok but I would just stick with 1150. Biggest issue you have is that your injection pump isn’t setup for boost reference. I’d bet you max out that turbo before you run out of fuel.
You've been watching "Carter Auto Restyling" to end up with bodywork so perfect in one episode.
I have a 1992 Toyota 4runner with a 3L series diesel (2.8 litre, naturally aspirated). It does 0-100km/h in about 27.5 seconds (though in good mechanical condition, it has about 650,000km on the odo). You are pretty close to the same acceleration!
The best way to reduce the exhaust temperature is to put larger diameter exhaust pipes and remove the muffler system to reduce back pressure, the higher the exhaust pressure, the higher the temperature will be, and the larger the pipe, the lower the pressure, and thus temperature. Also have you considered an exhaust cooler system? A simple copper pipe coiled around the exhaust manifold and filled with coolant that is sent to a separate radiator can reduce exhaust temp significantly
Not when it's tune related.....