These came out beautiful. I'm in the process of doing a headliner for my boyfriend's van. I created a mold with his old headliner by putting blue tape over the whole thing then doing the layer of fiberglass as my main mold then I used the appliance epoxy paint in black I like it better than brushing on It drives more quicker and you just spray it on You can lay down your carbon fiber directly after. Also I put layers of gloves on so if I get anything on my glove I just rip off one layer of glove and I've got a fresh glove already on I don't have to mess around with that. And instead of the tape to keep the carbon fiber from distorting I spray the adhesive onto the carbon fiber sheet and let that dry. It's a spray-on adhesive that comes out in a mist no chunks let it dry until you can touch it but won't stick to your finger This holds the carbon fiber in place yet still has movement to it to get around corners and whatnot. I also use a sponge applicator instead of a brush because it never fails I always end up getting a bristle of paint brush sticking in it even if I prep the brush with tape first. It just never Thank you for sharing your steps with us as well as showing us two different applications.
I'm about to do the same thing on my motorcycle so thanks for the vid! Though you'd avoid that orange peel if you moved the can closer and did a slightly heavier clear coat. But otherwise great video!
It's almost impossible to not get orange peel with spray cans when spraying clear coat. I do recognize what you mean though, but that would also turn into a hit and miss results where most likely, the coats will be uneven, runny and full of drips. Even professionals with expensive spray equipment get orange peel, some less than others but it's a very big challenge to spray clear-coat without orange peel :). There are many discussions about this as well where people claim that it's better to leave the orange peel on as it offers more protection (which is true in some way). Also many cars just come from the factory with orange peel but most people don't pay attention to this, people usually don't look up close to inspect someone's paintjob unless it's a special car for events or something :).
It's Stevik spray glue for resin infusion, use a very thin layer so there's also enough spots through that layer where the carbon fiber and resin can bind with the basecoat resin.
You did one on spray adhesive and the other on base epoxy and I could see no difference in the end result. Any difference in the result? I would be concerned about the glue not sticking as well as the epoxy, especially with wind, rain and vibration. Any idea how they last over time? Was the only 'saving' made using glue the cost of the base coat plus the time waiting for it to dry?
The main reason using glue is to save time. You can also do more complex parts in general using glue. Just go easy with the glue, this will keep enough space for the epoxy as well so you don't just build on the carbon held by glue. The 2nd layer should be able to get through the fabric and still hold onto the original part 🙂. At keast, that's my strategy here 😁. Just glue as an anchor will not hold over time.
love it!!. by the way, does this process can work for repairing carbon fiber mufflers? if so, what kind of resin that fits for mufflers? some say not all resin are compatible to make mufflers and some may discolor due to the heat. im trying to repair my carbon fiber mufflers on my motorcycle that got alot of small pinholes and at the same time clean it from cloudy waterspot like mark that cant be cleaned from just spraying water. having a hard time to figure out the perfect solution for my problems
Clearcoat resin goes ontop of thr carbon fibre cloth, the black base coat goes on 1st ontop of the mirror caps then thr carbon cloth on top of that black base coat
Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂
You can basically add layers as soon as the resin stops being runny and all bubbles are degassed. How long you have to wait also depends on the temperature you are working in. Some people wait until the resin doesn't stick to your finger anymore but does feel sticky and others (including me) add layers as quick as possible, while waiting for at least 1 hour. The other method is usually 90 to 120 minutes before you check how sticky the resin is. For the above reasons I recommend that you also brush some resin on something else so you can keep touching the resin to check without having to touch your project and possibly ruining it.
Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂
That depends on how thick of a layer of epoxy you want to keep on top and how much clearcoat. The carbon layer itself will probably stay under 0.40 mm and under vacuum 0.20 (rougly). The thicker the layer, the more depth and beauty though but that personal preference.
Some people really like carbon fiber accessories for their interior or exterior of their cars, like interior trims , shift nobs or even head light covers. Realistically if you have back round in composites you know that it takes more work to make an applicable part like this head light cover from having to make a mold of the original part and then lay up and vacuum bag then have to infuse it , demold it , trim it scuff it buff it then have to clear coat just to have a lighter version of the headlight cover which is not a big change in the cars weight when it’s plainly cosmetic so the answer to your comment would be it’s just more convenient and cost effective since it adds no performance value to the car.in the end it looks great and that’s the purpose it serves in this case.
You can only see the big difference in real life. If you make a nice carbon layer the material has depth, it changes how it looks the way you look at, day or night etc. It's alive. If you wrap with just carbon looking sricker (how i started), you basically just put a picture of carbon onto something. You might fool someone with a still image but in real life its a difference between night and day. I still have lots of different carbon vinyls but when I look at it, I just shake my head lol. Wrapping was fun, still do sometimes but can never replace the real thing.
There is more to it than just the aesthetics. When done properly, parts that have been skinned with carbon fiber are more rigid and durable - abrasion and scratch resistance, UV protection - Skinning offers a layer of protection that you just won't get with anything else. About a decade ago I bought a vacuum bagging system and autoclave to make custom parts for the Porsche 914 that I autocross. Since most competitions were out on hold during COVID I decided to build a sim rig at home. Even though I have all the equipment to make 100% carbon fiber parts for the setup, I opted instead to use 3d printed parts I had skinned. The finished products are far better looking and much more durable than regular 3d printed bits and the process is much quicker than making full carbon parts.
@juanesteban8827 💯 agree. In skinning you sacrifice some weight/strength as opposed to a full (or pure) CF component, but you save time and money. The finished product is light years deeper & richer than a wrap.
I don't clean them. It's all trash after 1 time use 🙂. You could clean them with Acetone and vinegar though, but you would have to do it within the first few hours.
when you spray the 2k clear coat, get closer, you want the material on the part and not in the room, the instructions on the cans are rubbish, the first coat can be light but it only needs to be left to dry for 2 minutes, then apply a rich, opaque, closed, glossy coat, which then let dry for 15 minutes, then apply a second opaque coat just like the first glossy coat, after that you won't have any problems with texture (orange peel) and you won't need to do much sanding or polishing!!! if you're asking, I'm a vehicle painter
These came out beautiful. I'm in the process of doing a headliner for my boyfriend's van. I created a mold with his old headliner by putting blue tape over the whole thing then doing the layer of fiberglass as my main mold then I used the appliance epoxy paint in black I like it better than brushing on It drives more quicker and you just spray it on You can lay down your carbon fiber directly after. Also I put layers of gloves on so if I get anything on my glove I just rip off one layer of glove and I've got a fresh glove already on I don't have to mess around with that. And instead of the tape to keep the carbon fiber from distorting I spray the adhesive onto the carbon fiber sheet and let that dry. It's a spray-on adhesive that comes out in a mist no chunks let it dry until you can touch it but won't stick to your finger This holds the carbon fiber in place yet still has movement to it to get around corners and whatnot. I also use a sponge applicator instead of a brush because it never fails I always end up getting a bristle of paint brush sticking in it even if I prep the brush with tape first. It just never Thank you for sharing your steps with us as well as showing us two different applications.
Wow. Thx so much for such a detailed tutorial.
What is the optimal room tempreture while executing this process?
Wow, Amazing - Good Work.
I'm about to do the same thing on my motorcycle so thanks for the vid! Though you'd avoid that orange peel if you moved the can closer and did a slightly heavier clear coat. But otherwise great video!
It's almost impossible to not get orange peel with spray cans when spraying clear coat. I do recognize what you mean though, but that would also turn into a hit and miss results where most likely, the coats will be uneven, runny and full of drips. Even professionals with expensive spray equipment get orange peel, some less than others but it's a very big challenge to spray clear-coat without orange peel :). There are many discussions about this as well where people claim that it's better to leave the orange peel on as it offers more protection (which is true in some way). Also many cars just come from the factory with orange peel but most people don't pay attention to this, people usually don't look up close to inspect someone's paintjob unless it's a special car for events or something :).
what sort of glue did you use because i bought one awhile back and it was the one you use on carpets not the fine mist you used.
It's Stevik spray glue for resin infusion, use a very thin layer so there's also enough spots through that layer where the carbon fiber and resin can bind with the basecoat resin.
Excellent tutorial, thanks
Really good bro 👌🏼
Can you provide the link for wrap you used?
Its 2 x 2 and 3K carbon fiber bought from www.Polyestershoppen.com. It's real carbon fiber, now vinyl wrap :).
Is there a certain base coat I should use when doing this?
Great video i will give this an attempt on my motorcycle belly pan. Wish me luck
Good luck 😁
@@caraddix well turned out great 👍
Great tutorial. Wondering where can you get thr supplies from? Do you have links to the products?
Thank you for the class
You did one on spray adhesive and the other on base epoxy and I could see no difference in the end result. Any difference in the result? I would be concerned about the glue not sticking as well as the epoxy, especially with wind, rain and vibration. Any idea how they last over time? Was the only 'saving' made using glue the cost of the base coat plus the time waiting for it to dry?
The main reason using glue is to save time. You can also do more complex parts in general using glue. Just go easy with the glue, this will keep enough space for the epoxy as well so you don't just build on the carbon held by glue. The 2nd layer should be able to get through the fabric and still hold onto the original part 🙂. At keast, that's my strategy here 😁. Just glue as an anchor will not hold over time.
What kind of glue are you using?
love it!!. by the way, does this process can work for repairing carbon fiber mufflers? if so, what kind of resin that fits for mufflers? some say not all resin are compatible to make mufflers and some may discolor due to the heat. im trying to repair my carbon fiber mufflers on my motorcycle that got alot of small pinholes and at the same time clean it from cloudy waterspot like mark that cant be cleaned from just spraying water. having a hard time to figure out the perfect solution for my problems
Please once you lay the carbon fiber did you apply the resin or the base coat
Clearcoat resin goes ontop of thr carbon fibre cloth, the black base coat goes on 1st ontop of the mirror caps then thr carbon cloth on top of that black base coat
how much thicker is the mirror cap compared to the original?
Probably between 0.5 and 1 mm. Depends on taste as well. Thicker creates a more depth look.
How long before each layer did you had to wait?
Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂
Applying second coat how long did you wait for first coat to dry then adding second coat
You can basically add layers as soon as the resin stops being runny and all bubbles are degassed. How long you have to wait also depends on the temperature you are working in. Some people wait until the resin doesn't stick to your finger anymore but does feel sticky and others (including me) add layers as quick as possible, while waiting for at least 1 hour. The other method is usually 90 to 120 minutes before you check how sticky the resin is. For the above reasons I recommend that you also brush some resin on something else so you can keep touching the resin to check without having to touch your project and possibly ruining it.
How long do you let the epoxy sit in between layers?
Roughly 2 to 3 hours depending on room temperature. You can do shorter breaks depending on your resin. Most important thing is the resin having time to degas and not still being too runny. Takes some trial and error if you are impatient without messing it up 🙂
How much thickness does the skinning add to the part please?
That depends on how thick of a layer of epoxy you want to keep on top and how much clearcoat. The carbon layer itself will probably stay under 0.40 mm and under vacuum 0.20 (rougly). The thicker the layer, the more depth and beauty though but that personal preference.
Not hating but can someone explain why you would do this? I mean wrapping would the same result. There is still the original plastic under it right?
Some people really like carbon fiber accessories for their interior or exterior of their cars, like interior trims , shift nobs or even head light covers. Realistically if you have back round in composites you know that it takes more work to make an applicable part like this head light cover from having to make a mold of the original part and then lay up and vacuum bag then have to infuse it , demold it , trim it scuff it buff it then have to clear coat just to have a lighter version of the headlight cover which is not a big change in the cars weight when it’s plainly cosmetic so the answer to your comment would be it’s just more convenient and cost effective since it adds no performance value to the car.in the end it looks great and that’s the purpose it serves in this case.
You can only see the big difference in real life. If you make a nice carbon layer the material has depth, it changes how it looks the way you look at, day or night etc. It's alive. If you wrap with just carbon looking sricker (how i started), you basically just put a picture of carbon onto something. You might fool someone with a still image but in real life its a difference between night and day. I still have lots of different carbon vinyls but when I look at it, I just shake my head lol. Wrapping was fun, still do sometimes but can never replace the real thing.
There is more to it than just the aesthetics. When done properly, parts that have been skinned with carbon fiber are more rigid and durable - abrasion and scratch resistance, UV protection - Skinning offers a layer of protection that you just won't get with anything else.
About a decade ago I bought a vacuum bagging system and autoclave to make custom parts for the Porsche 914 that I autocross. Since most competitions were out on hold during COVID I decided to build a sim rig at home. Even though I have all the equipment to make 100% carbon fiber parts for the setup, I opted instead to use 3d printed parts I had skinned. The finished products are far better looking and much more durable than regular 3d printed bits and the process is much quicker than making full carbon parts.
@juanesteban8827 💯 agree. In skinning you sacrifice some weight/strength as opposed to a full (or pure) CF component, but you save time and money. The finished product is light years deeper & richer than a wrap.
Only for looks
What type of carbon fiber did you use ???
polyestershoppen.com/koolstof-en-aramide/koolstofweefsel-200-gr-m2-keper-111.html
Nice ❤
hello good job mate, can u tell me witch spray glue that u use?
usually Vik9 from Vik Composites.
Hi bro What's glue name please share me
It’s a great video. Clear coat spray can technic is horrible. But otherwise. Awesome.
Nice job mate!!! Quick one, what are you using to clean the brush of epoxy?
I don't clean them. It's all trash after 1 time use 🙂. You could clean them with Acetone and vinegar though, but you would have to do it within the first few hours.
@@caraddixCan you make an armrest out of carbon fiber? I can send a form
@@caraddixHow much will this cost me? The car is Honda Accord
@@آخرالرجالالمحترمين-ت8ظ To do yourself or have me do it for you? Feel free to contact me on Instagram: CarAddixIG
@@آخرالرجالالمحترمين-ت8ظ Yes :). Do you have Instagram? Message me: CarAddixIG
goed idee
looks good i will not trust that glue tho use epoxy wait 1.50 hours and it will be tacky then apply your carbon on top looks good tho
when you spray the 2k clear coat, get closer, you want the material on the part and not in the room, the instructions on the cans are rubbish, the first coat can be light but it only needs to be left to dry for 2 minutes, then apply a rich, opaque, closed, glossy coat, which then let dry for 15 minutes, then apply a second opaque coat just like the first glossy coat, after that you won't have any problems with texture (orange peel) and you won't need to do much sanding or polishing!!!
if you're asking, I'm a vehicle painter
I pay 50 bucks for mines like the wing shape
You bought them or want them skinned?
bought them @@caraddix
i bought .and they pilling off lol@@caraddix
@@greggregorich8048 I got 2 pair as well. The wing ones will be hard to skin but I have an idea for them for another video.
Absolutely great video,
But the music is annoying.
Comes down to taste but I figured without music would be too boring 🙂