Very nice Ray! That 15003 holder is no longer sold by that number--now it seems to be 250-204. Same specs as far as I can tell... Thanks for the video!
Dude! You got me all kinds of worked up over this fantastic idea…. The thing I like is the fine tune adjustment on the boring head… this is a very precise way of ball cutting … and inexpensive. I have been looking and mulling over ideas… this is fantastic… thank you! I’m going shopping immediately… I’m gonna go with the 3” boring head
Nice setup Ray. I've had to make a few of those over the years. Alternate suggestion for you. If you set the tool to the OD of the material, or the OD of the round you want, and restrict the sweep to allow the tool to only get to the OD ( vertical) , you only set the radius one time. Then you use the carriage movements for incremental shifts between cuts. Just start with the carriage off the part by the amount of the radius you have set. Stefan Gotteswinter did a ball in a mill using a head like that. It was also very clever. Hope you're well bud.
I've watched at least a dozen of these and yours is by far the best design yet. Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge. I can't wait to get started on it.
Very nice You are fortunate that your particular lathe allows the cross slide to be retracted far enough back to allow for the boring head and tool block assembly to fit. I know for fact that some 10" and smaller lathes simply do not have enough room for that cutting tool assembly to fit in. I am jealous! I had to make an offset tool holder to move the boring head assembly back a full inch and my cross slide was still FULLY RETRACTED !!. Good job...THANKS !!
You know, I've been wanting to make a radius cutter from scratch for a while now, but it just seems like I haven't had a lot of time. I think I'm just going to order the parts and assemble one like you did, no need to reinvent the wheel. Thanks for sharing!
That works great Ray.. I have similar unit using boring head. I used bronze bushings in the tool holder, fitted to the diameter of the shaft of the boring head. I also use a short piece of allen wrench, stuck into a knob, and leave that in the screw of the boring head. I use a round HSS bit as well.. Curious to see how your other cutters work... Love to see you cut some internal concave radii.. I haven't tried that... Good to see you back !!! Thanks for sharing
Hey Bubba it's good to see you back. I thought you fell off the face of the earth. Cool build. Seems a lot of people like this style of ball turner. Regards, Duck
Oops...I.forgot. Could you also post links to your sources for the 2" boring head, arbor and boring bar holder? Thanks so much. Great video and excellent build!
Good stuff Ray. Now a stop back by your handle so you could limit your swing when doing a ball (keep Bozo at bay!). This one is simple enough I can devote the time to making it. Well thought out video. Wish you would do more of them as I have always enjoyed your content.
Great job buddy, I just made a ball turning fixture, which was a lot more labor intensive, but I loved every minute of it. Love to send you some pictures of it!
Great job Ray. I have a nice used Holdridge radio cutter that I purchased years ago but I’ve been toying with the idea of making a boring bar turner for quicker/easier setup. I may copy your design. Mike
Thank you very much for your clever idea, i already have that tool, but not with a straight arbour, i have instead both MK3 and MK2 taper shafts ( all three from ali-express ... ); but - after having get an adeguate piece of steel in diameter, i believe i can build the straight rod by myself, as the remaing parts too ... At the moment i don't need to build any ball piece, but ... "never say never" ... Meantime, it's better to get the whole tool ready to work ... Thank you very much again, my best regards from Italy ...
Nice job! Though i'd go about it a bit different i reckon. I would turn it on it's side and mount it via the compound mounting points, removing the compound and toolpost altogether when using the radius tool. This would add rigidity, and also allow you to traverse your cut using the saddle movement as a traditional radius tool as opposed to needing to fiddle with that set screw.
Ray -- another kick ass video , I like the way you explained what your objectives were . Nice design , excellent articulation , it was easy to follow. Like I always say about you, That Ray has Balls , Like you always say --- see ya
Nicely done! I don't know how much torque is required on that handle to turn the cutter through the material, but maybe a mod could be to use an aluminum 5 lobe knob instead of your stepped bushing on the back. Should allow easy movement back and forth without interfering with anything, and if you need more torque, you'll still have that hex in there fastening the knob onto the arbor to pop in your lever when needed. Just a thought. I like the tool! ----Aaron
Hey Aaron, The knob idea is great but not sure if you would have the same control from keeping the cutting tool from getting away from you. It would be worth a go. Thanks buddy!
What ho Ray, Nice video, have something of the sort built from a 50-60s design in Model Engineer magazine. Apart from the obvious use, it works well to put a slight arc on the end of male threads to add that pro look. ATB c
Ray, great video, one Q, I guess it wouldn't be possible to take the head off and turn it 180 so the tool lines up on the end or the boring head, not sure how the adjustment screw works inside the head for adjusting it. I'm sure if you could you would have done that. Like to know if you do.? I have a Grizzly G 709 Gunsmithing lathe, and as we have chatted before am a big reloader also.
Great video on the radius build, why didn't you drill a few a few holds in the outer collar for the bar so you can just use what ever hole you like, seems to me that a allen screw would be hard to find the hole every time, also really like the RCBS stand you made I'm sure, Happy reloading, I do also. Do more on your reloading please or things you make for reloading.👍👍👍👍
Many Thanks! I did make a few more mounts for reloading, case sizing and de-capping. The main reason I do not do reloading/firearm videos anymore is that YT will shut me down, so I was forced to remove most all of my previous firearm related videos.
You can use any 1/2" boring bar, the 1/4" HSS cutter I show in the video I made from 1/2" round bar and pressed the the HSS rod into a undersized 1/4" hole.
Hello Ray, I want to make one of these but I am working on a South Bend 10" lathe. My issue is that I am limited by how far outboard my carriage will travel. I am wondering if a 2" boring head would be too big? I already have a 3" that came with the milling machine I got from my dad but it's to deep. Is your lathe a lot bigger than 10" swing?
Would you be able to drill a third hole in the end of the boring head to accept the cutting tool? That way you can see and adjust the screw without stopping the operation..😉
Very nice Ray! That 15003 holder is no longer sold by that number--now it seems to be 250-204. Same specs as far as I can tell... Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the updated Info!
Dude! You got me all kinds of worked up over this fantastic idea…. The thing I like is the fine tune adjustment on the boring head… this is a very precise way of ball cutting … and inexpensive. I have been looking and mulling over ideas… this is fantastic… thank you! I’m going shopping immediately… I’m gonna go with the 3” boring head
Thank you! I think the 3" boring head is a good idea and will give you a wider range of ball making!
That’s cool Ray. Glad to see ya back.
Hey Terry, Great to hear from you buddy!
Nice setup Ray. I've had to make a few of those over the years. Alternate suggestion for you. If you set the tool to the OD of the material, or the OD of the round you want, and restrict the sweep to allow the tool to only get to the OD ( vertical) , you only set the radius one time. Then you use the carriage movements for incremental shifts between cuts. Just start with the carriage off the part by the amount of the radius you have set. Stefan Gotteswinter did a ball in a mill using a head like that. It was also very clever. Hope you're well bud.
Thanks Joe, I'll have to check it out and give that a try!
I've watched at least a dozen of these and yours is by far the best design yet. Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge. I can't wait to get started on it.
My favorite of all your content is anything like this, really appreciated Ray.
Many Thanks Mark! 👍
Very nice You are fortunate that your particular lathe allows the cross slide to be retracted far enough back to allow for the boring head and tool block assembly to fit. I know for fact that some 10" and smaller lathes simply do not have enough room for that cutting tool assembly to fit in. I am jealous! I had to make an offset tool holder to move the boring head assembly back a full inch and my cross slide was still FULLY RETRACTED !!. Good job...THANKS !!
Thank you!!!
Great job Ray, good to see you back.
Looks like I will be remaking my radius cutter after watching your video. Proves you can teach an old dog new tricks very simple tool to make.
This does have its limitations but its simple and it works. Thanks!
Nice tool Ray. I like how the tool cuts "tangentially" on the work, something I'm learning now with screw machine tooling on my lathe. LIKE IT! 👍👍👍
Hello Ray,
Nice work... I liked that most of the parts were just off the shelf components... See you on the next one...
Take care.
Paul,,
You know, I've been wanting to make a radius cutter from scratch for a while now, but it just seems like I haven't had a lot of time. I think I'm just going to order the parts and assemble one like you did, no need to reinvent the wheel. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Ray I just found your channel and I am pumped.
Thanks for tuning in Andrew and hope you enjoy my vids!
Very clever and simple Ray! Much simpler than other approaches I've seen.
I like simple Tim and it really works!
The tool everyone should have when restoring wilton vises. Very nice brother.
You got that right Brother!
That's pretty slick Ray. Nice job.
That works great Ray.. I have similar unit using boring head. I used bronze bushings in the tool holder, fitted to the diameter of the shaft of the boring head. I also use a short piece of allen wrench, stuck into a knob, and leave that in the screw of the boring head. I use a round HSS bit as well.. Curious to see how your other cutters work... Love to see you cut some internal concave radii.. I haven't tried that... Good to see you back !!! Thanks for sharing
Great video and demo Ray looks like it works really well. Hope you and your family are all doing well. Thank you.
I’ve made one of these long time ago and it’s brilliant
Great job I love the injunity. Thanks
Nice. Seems to work well.
Hey Bubba it's good to see you back.
I thought you fell off the face of the earth.
Cool build. Seems a lot of people like this style of ball turner.
Regards,
Duck
Long time no talk my good friend, I hope you are doing well during these crazy times! Thanks for tuning in, great hearing from you!
Thank you Ray for the great idea! Awesome job!
Oops...I.forgot. Could you also post links to your sources for the 2" boring head, arbor and boring bar holder? Thanks so much. Great video and excellent build!
Links are in the description.
Oh shoot, didn't even see the description. Sorry sir, and thank you. :)
Very clever Ray👍
Thanks Buddy!
Good stuff Ray. Now a stop back by your handle so you could limit your swing when doing a ball (keep Bozo at bay!). This one is simple enough I can devote the time to making it. Well thought out video. Wish you would do more of them as I have always enjoyed your content.
Nice tool build
Thanks Chuck!!! 👍
Super COOL Ray! Simple but effective. Hope you are doing well!!
Thanks Reid, Hope your doing good as well buddy!
Great job buddy, I just made a ball turning fixture, which was a lot more labor intensive, but I loved every minute of it. Love to send you some pictures of it!
Hey Chui, For sure buddy I would love to see it! My email, raysgarage69@att.net
Nice job Ray. Enjoyed watching 👍
The button head cap screw with it's dedicated handle is a great idea.
Thanks Man, It worked out great for me! I even thought about using a ratchet handle!
Really nice results Ray
Very nice Ray, Always nice seeing a video from ya. Take care, Gary
Nice job Ray!!👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Buddy!
Good to see you back! What'cha been reloading........:)
5.56 & .308 Thanks for dropping by buddy!
I Reload for my baby, FAL...........:)
Great job Ray. I have a nice used Holdridge radio cutter that I purchased years ago but I’ve been toying with the idea of making a boring bar turner for quicker/easier setup. I may copy your design.
Mike
Hey Mike, For sure buddy! It work really well for a very easy to make tool, on steel as well!
Nice job Ray
Great video Ray. It feels wrong copying your awesome design. If you ever draw up plans for this I will purchase them from you. Fantastic design
Many Thanks, Copy away! Nothing really to make except for the aluminum shoulder washer on the rear.
Thank you very much for your clever idea, i already have that tool, but not with a straight arbour, i have instead both MK3 and MK2 taper shafts ( all three from ali-express ... ); but - after having get an adeguate piece of steel in diameter, i believe i can build the straight rod by myself, as the remaing parts too ...
At the moment i don't need to build any ball piece, but ... "never say never" ...
Meantime, it's better to get the whole tool ready to work ...
Thank you very much again, my best regards from Italy ...
Very nice, thank you!
Very cool Ray! Well done!👍
Thanks Lee!
Nice job! Though i'd go about it a bit different i reckon. I would turn it on it's side and mount it via the compound mounting points, removing the compound and toolpost altogether when using the radius tool. This would add rigidity, and also allow you to traverse your cut using the saddle movement as a traditional radius tool as opposed to needing to fiddle with that set screw.
Ray -- another kick ass video , I like the way you explained what your objectives were . Nice design , excellent articulation , it was easy to follow. Like I always say about you, That Ray has Balls , Like you always say --- see ya
Great video. Glad I found your channel.
Thanks for tuning in!
Good idea. Good video.
Thanks Mike! 👍
Nicely done! I don't know how much torque is required on that handle to turn the cutter through the material, but maybe a mod could be to use an aluminum 5 lobe knob instead of your stepped bushing on the back. Should allow easy movement back and forth without interfering with anything, and if you need more torque, you'll still have that hex in there fastening the knob onto the arbor to pop in your lever when needed. Just a thought. I like the tool! ----Aaron
Hey Aaron, The knob idea is great but not sure if you would have the same control from keeping the cutting tool from getting away from you. It would be worth a go. Thanks buddy!
Awsome design. Thanks for sharing Ray.
You bet and thanks for tuning in!
What ho Ray,
Nice video, have something of the sort built from a 50-60s design in Model Engineer magazine. Apart from the obvious use, it works well to put a slight arc on the end of male threads to add that pro look.
ATB
c
👍👌Thank you my friend!
Ray, great video, one Q, I guess it wouldn't be possible to take the head off and turn it 180 so the tool lines up on the end or the boring head, not sure how the adjustment screw works inside the head for adjusting it. I'm sure if you could you would have done that. Like to know if you do.? I have a Grizzly G 709 Gunsmithing lathe, and as we have chatted before am a big reloader also.
Thanks, I could only get it to adjust one direction, other direction has very little travel.
Thanks Ray, great to know, I was thinking of putting a thumb screw that sticks out a bit so you don't need a allen wrench. @@RaysGarage
Now you have to make one to do concave surfaces. :-)
I like it, Ray...simple and cheap.
Thanks Joe, and thanks for tuning in my friend!
great build.
Welcome back Ray great up mate
Thanks Robbie!
Have you tried it on steel?
Yes, small cuts and it works well!
Great video on the radius build, why didn't you drill a few a few holds in the outer collar for the bar so you can just use what ever hole you like, seems to me that a allen screw would be hard to find the hole every time, also really like the RCBS stand you made I'm sure, Happy reloading, I do also. Do more on your reloading please or things you make for reloading.👍👍👍👍
Many Thanks! I did make a few more mounts for reloading, case sizing and de-capping. The main reason I do not do reloading/firearm videos anymore is that YT will shut me down, so I was forced to remove most all of my previous firearm related videos.
Hi Ray can you please tell me where can I get the cutter knife? I'm preparing my set up just like yours. Thanks
You can use any 1/2" boring bar, the 1/4" HSS cutter I show in the video I made from 1/2" round bar and pressed the the HSS rod into a undersized 1/4" hole.
@@RaysGarage ok thanks
Great video...
Thank you for sharing... 😎
thanks ray for sharing
Hello Ray, I want to make one of these but I am working on a South Bend 10" lathe. My issue is that I am limited by how far outboard my carriage will travel. I am wondering if a 2" boring head would be too big? I already have a 3" that came with the milling machine I got from my dad but it's to deep. Is your lathe a lot bigger than 10" swing?
Hi Bryan, I use this on my 14" lathe and am not sure if the 2" boring head will work on your 10".
Would you be able to drill a third hole in the end of the boring head to accept the cutting tool?
That way you can see and adjust the screw without stopping the operation..😉
Nice thanks for sharing
Nice.. I’ll definitely be making me one that’s for sure..👍
Very creative
...another project to add to my list! 😆
Mind if I copy it
Go for it! 👍👌
Awesome thanks make my journey easier lol . Awesome job for sure !!
Thank you sir.
You are very welcome!
❤️
Thanks Buddy, I hope all is well! 👍
I had to weld my arbor on because it comes loose from the head.
Would a set screw have worked as well?
@@RaysGarage i use it to bore on the mill , when boring a OD i run it in reverse and a tig was faster that day. A set screw might slip on a heavy cut.