All About Stromberg Carburettor 175CD 2SE adjustment/road testing - Volvo 164 Rescue Ep43
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Episode 43 The The 1969 Volvo 164 “Ivy” is happily on the road. but there are adjustments to make on the Zenith Stromberg 175CD 2SE carbies if I want decent fuel economy and engine health. You'll note I didn't put performance first on that list, because my priority is longevity. I've worked hard enough on this build, I'd like it to last long as a result! I just remembered I briefly dated a girl with the last name Stromberg...Guess which relationship lasted longer? Pne runs rich, the other had cold hands.
Useful Links for the Carburettors: www.skandix.de/en/documents/a...
www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm
carbiketech.com/air-fuel-rati...
www.afrplus.com/AFRplus-unit-...
NEXT EPISODE: Repairing the shock absorber mounting plates that rust on the Volvo 164 and 140 cars. • Welding Rear Shock Pla...
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PREVIOUS EPISODE: Getting Her Roadworthy (Again)
🚕 Episode 42 • Getting Her Roadworthy...
🤩 Episode 41 • FIRST DRIVE after 7 Mo...
🔌 Episode 40 • Replacing the Core Plu...
😯 Episode 39 • First Start on Rebuilt...
🐎 Episode 38 • Installing Engine & Tr...
🏃🏼♀️ Episode 37 • Rebuilding Laycock J T...
🎡 Episode 36 • Volvo M410 Gearbox/Tra...
🖌 Episode 35 • Painting & Assembling ...
🌦 Episode 34 • Fog Light Wiring, Bump...
🚇 Episode 33 • Finishing the Interior...
🛋 Episode 32 • Reviving 50 year old L...
🎻 Episode 31 • Installing Windshield ...
👓 Episode 30 • Volvo 164 Rescue: Wind...
🎨 Episode 29 • Painting the Engine Ba...
🐾 Episode 28 • Volvo 164 (and 140) Do...
🚪 Episode 27 • Volvo 164 (and 140) He...
✂️ Episode 26 • Building a Carpet from...
😳 Episode 25 • Pressure Washing the I...
🛀 Episode 24 • Pressure Washing the U...
💔 Episode 23 • Ever wonder what a rod...
🛁 Episode 22 • Pressure Washing the J...
🚀 Episode 21 • Pulling a Junkyard Vol...
🗑 Episode 20 • A Junkyard Volvo 164E ...
💈 Episode 19: • Dashboard & Interior R...
👨🎨 Episode 18 • Preserve Patina! Old P...
⚙️ Episode 17: • M410 Transmission Disa...
🚜 Episode 16: • B30 Engine Removal 196...
📅 Episode 15: • The Rebuilding Begins!...
🏆 Episode 14: • Volvo 164 First Drive ...
🎁 Episode 13: • GIVING AWAY a Volvo 16...
🐌 Episode 12: • The MOST STRESSFUL Vol...
⚡️ Episode 11: • ‘69 Volvo 164 Rescue -...
🔦 Episode 10: • Bringing the Barn Find...
🧐 Episode 9: • A Right hand drive Vol...
🚙 Episode 8: • The Surprise 1969 Volv...
🌅 Episode 7: • How Bad is my Engine D...
🏁 Episode 6: • Drive it til it Breaks...
🌚 Episode 5: • First drive in 27 year...
🇸🇪 Episode 4: • Getting her Roadworthy...
🎥 Episode 3: • Volvo 164 B30 Engine F...
🚗 Episode 2: • Looking over my $500 V...
🎁 Episode 1: • The History & Rescue o...
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Very intelligent explanation of the Zenith Stromberg carbs. I'm helping a friend tune his newly purchased 1974 Triumph TR6 with these carbs. His are super lean and when the adjustment tool shows up in the mail, we will fix it. Plugs are white and it backfires and won't start easily, so richer is what they need. The person that rebuilt them recently didn't do any adjustments. Thanks, great video.
Thank you! This is my second day trying to set up a ZS 175-2 on a V8 Range Rover. It’s easier to catch the devil by the tail... Tomorrow I’ll try to do everything according to your instructions.I repaired Japanese carburetors in Russia for 3 years. For loaders and cars, old and new, I even had experience with a double DeLlorto on an Alfa Romeo. Now in the Balkans I come across cars that I have never seen before. And the first time I encountered a “motorcycle” type of carburetor and I can’t adjust it to a leaner mixture. The fuel I see coming in looks like I pressed the toilet flush. :)
I am impressed. Nuts and bolts are easy. Adjusting a non-adjustable Stromberg is something else.
I have never fully understood carburettors. Your explanation goes a long way to clarifying how they work.
And I note your previous experience with Webers. lol. I agree with your comment that original is usually best. Those engineers, back in the day, were not fools. they designed the car as a balanced system, so stick with their wisdom. The twin Strombergs give that engine a gorgeous sound. Cheers.
A good replacement for the carbs are Mikunis. Both the Strombergs and SU are good if they are tuned...and in good condition. Webers are good if you get one with the proper throats. But we should also remember that Webers are also old designs and prone to giving you too much fuel when used for engines that are not tuned as high preformance ones.
Weber are annoying in the low range, they tend to be too rich for slow cruse.
well detailed and explained video on the CD175 thanks
This brought back a memory of my Dad's 145, being worked on by Wolf Volvo in Manhattan. The owner himself took an interest, and removed two plastic caps from the jet adjustments of the SU carbs. This 1968 car already had an anti-tamper emissions device of a sort. It wouldn't be many years before the emissions equipment became both more extensive and more intrusive. The years before Lambda-Sond were dark times.
Love your videos dude. Thanks for your work to film and share.
Thank you for all the TOTO music.
Live in Amsterdam, Old is New..
Nice
Great video, as always. My mechanic teached me how to adjust the dual SU HS2 on my Mini and now maintaining those Is a real satisfaction. Now on the Fulvia there are Solex PHH and now I have to learn again how to. I guess it's how life it's intended to be.
Great explanation and video!
WOW, that was enlightening. Many years ago I used to do some adjustments on my Volvo's 145, 164 (Zenith 175 CD) and Rover P6 (SUHS8) I wish I knew this then. This would have caused less frustrations 😁😂😄
Thanks for sharing 😎👍
Dude you have a great voice! Love the Volvo content too.
Thanks for great vid! The engine sound after you tuned it was very “Volvo”! I found Strombergs to be very reliable on my Volvo 140. Had to change the rubber diaphragm once in 20 years/ 100k miles. Consumption was approx 26mpg, but that was a smaller 2.0L engine of course.
The number of cylinders is irrelevant.
Yes, carbs can be reliable, specially when they are tuned right and frequently used.
Millions of multi-cylinder multi-carbed motorcycles have used them very succesfully until the switch to efi.
One mayor issue can spoil your carbs and that was the introduction of ETHANOL in gasoline. Ethanol is corrosive and not all old gaskets, rubber seals and hoses can stand up to ethanol.
Dear David Bello.
Okay, that was a lot of theoretical/technical stuff to digest. But again and as always, very well done (video, work, explanations)! 👍👌👏 Congrats for being sooo patient! By the way (and to be completely honest): What I learned because of this video is to throw SU, Stromberg and Weber carburetors into the bin and use fuel injection systems (unless you have well fabricated and fully adjustable Japanese carburetors)!
As always: Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards, luck and health.
Post Scriptum: Unfortunately it looks as if the gofundme campaign was started a bit too late. I nonetheless hope and wish that you reach your goal. Good luck!
I had a pair of Zeniths on my TR7 when I was a kid. They would fall out of tune if you looked at them wrong. You just have to get used to adjusting them every 3-4 weeks.
Any misfiring or pre-sensor exhaust leak will send the sensor reading way lean and jittery fyi.
I have the same carb in my 142, it can be a excellent carb. I converted to the adjustable jet conversion when rebuilding and that makes it a much better carb and so easy to adjust. Got my idle set at about 13.2:1, cruise is between 14 and 15 and wot 12.5. It starts always instantly cold or hot, good power and economical. Also you can get a couple of versions of the diaphragm, Burlens in the U.K. sell the proper one and it’s thin and very pliable so the piston moves freely. The thicker one you can also get doesn’t work as well. If you set the carb as per Volvos recommendation, when it just gets max rpm at idle when adjusting the jet it should be pretty much spot on at about 13.2:1 at idle. Excellent carbs just needs a little tlc and understanding.
if you roll through denver we will are looking out for you
Really surprised to see your carbs with non adjustable needle's. My single Zenith 175 CD-2SE has the adjustable needle with the allen head adjustment screw. If I were you I would put a gasket on that choke mechanism. Just make sure to get the right one. I recently ordered all the proper gaskets for my carb directly from Volvo. Excited to get my 244 (Canadian spec) back on the road. Love the channel by the way! Wish the land borders were open so I could make it to the Volvo meet.
Not all the chokes have a gasket, if it didn’t originally have one then it shouldn’t have one.
Hi Dave, why don't you use the colourtune?
Hola David , tengo un pequeño bote , estoy en argentina y tiene dos motores volvo penta , con dos carburadores iguales , a estos que mostraste, cada uno de ellos, , mi problema es que no consigo las agujas , hay dos que están quebradas , por que fueron mal montadas, , me podrías decir si aun se consiguen estas piezas , saludos muy buenos vídeos.
Is the replacement bosch sensor a wideband sensor a lot of the gauges come with a crappy Chinese narowband sensor.
Do you use a colour tune kit? I had one when I had my Brit cars.
Hi! I need help with mine. When you lift the valve inside the carburator how stiff are they? One of mine is light like it got no resistence and the other one has a bit of resistance. What is right or wrong?
finding the rubber diaphragm split was like finding out your daughter WASN'T pregnant! lol
Is there any oil in those dash pots?!
How do the Mikunies that you justed on an Amazon compare to the SUs or the Strombergs, they look like they are easier to work with, what do you think
Most mikuni and keihin , etc are also constant vacume carburettors. Because they come from the performance oriented world of motorcycles they tend to be very easily adjustable with a wide selection of jets and needles available aftermarket (just look for dynojet kits).
I have seen Volvo redblock rallye engines make great power using 4 mikuni harley davidson carbs.
👍🏻
Hi. have a little problem. I have a Strömberg carburetor with adjustable needle. I have replaced the diaphragm and rubber ring on the needle. unfortunately I did not measure the needle height before I disassembled the carburetor. I have access to a lamb meter of the type that the car inspection has for measuring environmental emissions. I work as a car mechanic but of the age that does not work with carburetors only injection. the problem is that I can not test drive in the same way as the carburetor is not sitting on a car, it is sitting on an airplane. so the question is can i use this measuring equipment to adjust the needle. the equipment measures co / co2 / hc / oxygen and calculates a lambda value. the difference between aircraft and car engines is that the aircraft engine runs at very low revs, ours is a maximum rev 2800 rpm. do you have any idea how much throttle is needed to give a good result when measuring and adjusting and if it can be done with this measuring equipment. with best regards Helge
I'll never complain again about my Alfa-Romeo SPICA mechanical fuel injection!
Somehow I think that is more complicated but I may be projecting from the volvo K-jet turbo stuff
So many euro alfa owners imported US-Alfa's with Spica injection and just removed it and replaced it with proper twin Del-Orto's or twin Weber's. Easier, more reliable and you got more power as well. All win!
Dang dude. You know a shit load about these things. 😁
how does she feel now?
hmm how come you never had the weber working? i used to run a DCD36/36 and it was PERFECT. it gave REAL good performance (it stopped delivering at 140-160hp somewhere) and MPG was in the 30-32 range on long trips etc. never missed a beat. never had to adjusted it EVER think we ran it for over 100 000km.
when i had the Stromberg or Pitsburg carb's in the car i always had the adjuster tool (that you put down the piston cap) or a socket for adjusting the under side on the pitsburg in the glovebox (and a extra diafram). it made them work OK. never as good as the weber. got it down to about 25-28mpg
Think he got a "new" 32 36, the quality is random on spanish made webers, remember we talked abt it
@@victorpelini5995 think mine was made in italy
@@grapsorz yeah, the Italian ones are better
From what i know BP6HS is the right spark plugs for B30A, BP7HS is too coold and will accumulate soot.
Isn’t rich better than lean for the engine?
'Better' is not the right word. Safer, yes. You will not damage the engine very fast. Lean is risky, you can damage the engine. But too rich is also not good. The excess of fuel washes the lubrication oil from the cylinder walls which accelerates wear.
You want to get AFR in the right ballpark :
Idle + light cruise: 14.7:1
Medium load, faster cruise: 14.7 gradually rising to 12.5:1 the more load you give it.
Full power/ wide open throttle: 12:1-ish. ( Ideally you would want to test this on a chassis dyno so you can tune for max power.)
@@jfv65 a SU and a Stromberg should idle at about 13.2:1. It will idle better and when changing gear it won’t go lean and cause backfires. If you follow Volvos recommendation on how to set mixtures at idle it should result in about 13.2:1 with the correct needle/jet/spring. Needle position should then be pretty good for stock engines. A wideband 02 sensor makes it easy to tune WOT and cruise if not a standard engine. Dashpot oil choice will also effect things.
What about the well known method to pull the piston and see what happens?
If it is getting faster too rich, if it is getting slower too lean.
@@GrauBuntStachelig don’t know where that sets things myself. The method Volvo suggests is to increase the mixture at idle until the revs stop increasing and then turn it back one flat on the jet. It should see max revs with a 12.5:1 fuel ratio and then turning it back one flat should lean the mix to about 13.2. I have a multimeter which can read engine rpm so makes that method dead easy to do.
Why? Why? Why? I can never understand it. So many bad memories of carbs. I always remove them if I am building up an older car.
Innovate stuff is typically crap. Avoid.
Nothing wrong with the Innovate wide band, I have it and works spot on. It is a Bosch sensor and the gauge just measures volts so is basic stuff and works as it should.
@@classicvolvorestorations3848 Far from my experiences over the last 15 years. There are so many other, better options.