I drive a 2004 g35. If you want to bleed all air from cooling system then park your car facing up a fairly sharp incline or even jack up the front end up off the level ground a bit. Maybe a foot's worth. It is very, very important that the nose is high up so as to allow air to travel to the top of the system(the rad cap) where the rad cap opening is now higher than the bleeding screw port. With the engine cold open up the radiator cap but check hoses for pressure prior just to be sure of your own safety. With the engine being cold and off. Place the funnel bucket into the opened rad cap opening so that the fit is snug and then fills the bucket half to three quarter full with anti-freeze. Now slowly back off the bleeder screw near the firewall until nothing but solid pure anti-freeze begins to flow out the bleeder screw hole and while making sure no air is included in the flow and is visible. Now tighten down the bleeder screw so it is snugged up and closed. Now go into the driver's seat. Start the car and turn on your heater fan speed and temperature to full hot and the blower fan is at the fastest speed. Bring the engine temperature up to operating temperature. Now set the RPM to about 2,500 to 30,000 and hold it at this RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to go back down to idle RPM of about 6,000. Do NOT rev the engine up and down while doing this so as to make a lot of muffler noises. Save that stuff for another time Repeat that about 4, 5, 6 times while at the same time observing the anti-freeze level in the funnel bucket. You will likely have to add more anti-freeze as the air escapes the cooling system. You will see the air coming up in the funnel bucket and the anti-freeze will begin to go into the system replacing the air as it bubbles out. This will require about 30 to 40 minutes of your time with these cars. On occasion go out to the front of your car and squeeze the upper and lower rad hoses just to make sure that no air is still trapped in there. After the time mentioned of 30 to 40 minutes goes by and that there is zero air bubble coming back up into the funnel bucket anymore from the system place a rag around the end of a screw driver and while pressing the rag into the funnel buckets hole to block the remaining anti-freeze in the bucket from pouring out place the spout of your funnel bucket into your anti-freeze jug and remove the rag and screw driver to drain back into the jug of anti-freeze. Close the radiator cap with its rad cap tightly. Make sure the overflow tank is also topped up with anti-freeze to the MAX LINE only. You have now BURPED the system correctly and all air has been removed. Enjoy your ride people.
Both of my fans were intermittently working. Check that first. Passenger side should turn on at about 204 temp. Driver side should turn on when a.c. is on. If they do not. Spin them manually and good chance they will start spinning with some power from the fan motor. Won't be with much power. And still need to be replaced. Both of mine did this.
I have a 2008 G35, but something strange happens to me. When the car is driving on the street a little fast, it expels the coolant into the expansion tank almost to the point of overflow, but when it cools down, it doesn't return to the radiator. Which causes it to start overheating after a couple of days of doing that. I checked the fans turn on at 213F with medium-low speed and when I turn on the AC they spin faster but this time permanently I changed the fan module for a new one and it keeps happening to me. What could it be?
Bout to go try this rn. I know I have air in the system but I have heat. Yesterday in traffic the temp Guage rose up in traffic and when I started driving again it went back down. Thermostat was leaking , changed that now it’s over heating again. So I know it’s air. Ima try your method right now
Yes, I would get hot sitting still, but I can’t seem to find a leak or anything. The other day I was dry of coolant. Filled it back up and no leak. Still full but I’m still over heating sitting still
Oh shit. I don’t know what that code is but those lights I’ve had those pop on before with me and it was my crankshaft sensor messed up when I was in manual mode trying to play around and as far as overheating I can definitely help you with that. Overheating is always 100% air bubbles trapped in the coolant system and you just have to bleed the system
What Does the P0850 Code Mean? Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0850 indicates “Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit.” When the transmission is in park or neutral gear, the PNP switch transmits the signal that tells the PCM it can start up the engine. That’s what I got for that code. So I’m guessing yeah it could be your crankshaft sensor your sensors that are right there behind the motor block and one that’s by the transmission.
So after the initial bleed with the bleeder and everything if still over heating, let it sit with the funnel on with the car on or off? And if off do you turn the car back on and bleed again without opening the bleeder port?
if you still have air in the system yes just leave your car on running be very patient with your car just chill if there’s air in the system which 100% of the time it is it will come out you just Gotta let it do it’s thing
The Infiniti M 35 sedan? If the lights just come on I’m pretty sure sure if it doesn’t make a sound like it’s trying to turn over then definitely your battery probably died. I’ll check the battery then I’m pretty sure your starter is OK your alternator OK nothing wrong with those but if it’s overheating definitely airing your system for sure you just have to bleed it.
No, those random little bubble just started popping up once the car was in idle, for I had my car on for about 5 hours just sitting there making sure you would see the coolant drop down once the heater is shooting out really really hot
My car over heats fans won’t turn on I replace radiator cooling fans today and still their not cutting on at operating temperature . They only turn on when I turn the ac on
I’ve never had the issues with my fans not turning on most likely if they’re not cutting on it’s either a fuse issue or wire but if you said you replaced it and their new fans, then I would check the fuse that controls the fans. See if that works.
@@yonicsanchez226 I honestly don’t know I looked at a RUclips video to help me find the fuses I needed to switch when I had an issue, I wouldn’t know honestly why the fans wouldn’t be turning on that’s out of my knowledge range because I haven’t had to deal with that before
@@yonicsanchez226 Did you resolve your issue? What was it? I have the same issue. Overheat on idle then drops back down when I start driving. Fans are not turning on.
And my car is still overheating I broke the thermostat and put it in like that and it doesn't overheat anymore what do you think you could be my second guess is head gaskets?
Find the leak/leaks my guess well you’re saying you broke the thermostat so I’m guessing that’s why it’s overheating. A broken thermostat but check for leaks. Check your hoses.
@@DadeBoi_Czer no no I broke it on purpose so the car wouldn't overheat anymore some coolant in there and I checked all over and I don't have any leaks if I put the regular thermostat on it will overheat
@@Elshaka499 ah ok I get it. To be honest, I wouldn’t know why it’s overheating then if you have no leaks and it’s not overheating I wouldn’t know what’s going on… maybe the regular thermostat is not opening up. I’m sure you tested it right?
@@sapboi104 i’ve helped a lot of people for sure with this issue. If you need any help just my name is the same on Instagram I could put you in our group chat and what it mainly is is you have to be patient I can walk you through it step-by-step if you need how I did it and everything OK
@@sapboi104 but I’m pretty positive on what you’re experiencing I’ve experienced about four times and it was always bubbles air pocket still traveling through my coolant system and I just had to bleed it again and just be patient and wait for all the bubbles to come out
Yeah, just it’s about just being patient cause it’s gonna take a while for you to be for sure but when you put on the bucket on the radiator cap, fill it up to the like less than halfway because coolant might rise up for sure when your car gets to heating levels and it starts bubbling but then it’ll stop. And leave your bleeder port closed if you’re bleeding your system and yeah, keep the heater on just so you know when is really hot.
Personally, after I fill up the coolant from the radiator, and I watch the bleeder port and watch the coolant overflow out the bleeder port I cap the bleeder port and that’s it. I never open it again when it comes to bleeding the coolant system to get air out I personally always leave my bleeder port closed. The only time I’ve have ever opened. It is when I’m completely empty of coolant, and I have to refill straight from the radiator
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I drive a 2004 g35. If you want to bleed all air from cooling system then park your car facing up a fairly sharp incline or even jack up the front end up off the level ground a bit. Maybe a foot's worth. It is very, very important that the nose is high up so as to allow air to travel to the top of the system(the rad cap) where the rad cap opening is now higher than the bleeding screw port. With the engine cold open up the radiator cap but check hoses for pressure prior just to be sure of your own safety. With the engine being cold and off. Place the funnel bucket into the opened rad cap opening so that the fit is snug and then fills the bucket half to three quarter full with anti-freeze. Now slowly back off the bleeder screw near the firewall until nothing but solid pure anti-freeze begins to flow out the bleeder screw hole and while making sure no air is included in the flow and is visible. Now tighten down the bleeder screw so it is snugged up and closed. Now go into the driver's seat. Start the car and turn on your heater fan speed and temperature to full hot and the blower fan is at the fastest speed. Bring the engine temperature up to operating temperature. Now set the RPM to about 2,500 to 30,000 and hold it at this RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to go back down to idle RPM of about 6,000. Do NOT rev the engine up and down while doing this so as to make a lot of muffler noises. Save that stuff for another time Repeat that about 4, 5, 6 times while at the same time observing the anti-freeze level in the funnel bucket. You will likely have to add more anti-freeze as the air escapes the cooling system. You will see the air coming up in the funnel bucket and the anti-freeze will begin to go into the system replacing the air as it bubbles out. This will require about 30 to 40 minutes of your time with these cars. On occasion go out to the front of your car and squeeze the upper and lower rad hoses just to make sure that no air is still trapped in there. After the time mentioned of 30 to 40 minutes goes by and that there is zero air bubble coming back up into the funnel bucket anymore from the system place a rag around the end of a screw driver and while pressing the rag into the funnel buckets hole to block the remaining anti-freeze in the bucket from pouring out place the spout of your funnel bucket into your anti-freeze jug and remove the rag and screw driver to drain back into the jug of anti-freeze. Close the radiator cap with its rad cap tightly. Make sure the overflow tank is also topped up with anti-freeze to the MAX LINE only. You have now BURPED the system correctly and all air has been removed. Enjoy your ride people.
that gave me a head ache
I Tried this, and after awhile, the Fluid started bubbling back up through the Funnel. Along with that, neither of my fans are working.
Both of my fans were intermittently working. Check that first. Passenger side should turn on at about 204 temp. Driver side should turn on when a.c. is on. If they do not. Spin them manually and good chance they will start spinning with some power from the fan motor. Won't be with much power. And still need to be replaced. Both of mine did this.
I have a 2008 G35, but something strange happens to me. When the car is driving on the street a little fast, it expels the coolant into the expansion tank almost to the point of overflow, but when it cools down, it doesn't return to the radiator. Which causes it to start overheating after a couple of days of doing that. I checked the fans turn on at 213F with medium-low speed and when I turn on the AC they spin faster but this time permanently I changed the fan module for a new one and it keeps happening to me. What could it be?
Looking good brother!! 🔥💪🏾💯
Bet datt 🙏💯
Bout to go try this rn. I know I have air in the system but I have heat. Yesterday in traffic the temp Guage rose up in traffic and when I started driving again it went back down. Thermostat was leaking , changed that now it’s over heating again. So I know it’s air. Ima try your method right now
Definitely air
@@DadeBoi_Czer ended up having air in the system because the seal on the radiator cap was completely done.
Yes, I would get hot sitting still, but I can’t seem to find a leak or anything. The other day I was dry of coolant. Filled it back up and no leak. Still full but I’m still over heating sitting still
I bought an 06 g35 auto with 116k yesterday. It has a p0850 code, abs light, rev light and check engine light and overheats.
Oh shit. I don’t know what that code is but those lights I’ve had those pop on before with me and it was my crankshaft sensor messed up when I was in manual mode trying to play around and as far as overheating I can definitely help you with that. Overheating is always 100% air bubbles trapped in the coolant system and you just have to bleed the system
I’m actually gonna go look up that code right now
What Does the P0850 Code Mean? Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0850 indicates “Park/Neutral Switch Input Circuit.” When the transmission is in park or neutral gear, the PNP switch transmits the signal that tells the PCM it can start up the engine.
That’s what I got for that code. So I’m guessing yeah it could be your crankshaft sensor your sensors that are right there behind the motor block and one that’s by the transmission.
@@DadeBoi_Czerwhat about code p1217 with codes p0011
So after the initial bleed with the bleeder and everything if still over heating, let it sit with the funnel on with the car on or off? And if off do you turn the car back on and bleed again without opening the bleeder port?
if you still have air in the system yes just leave your car on running be very patient with your car just chill if there’s air in the system which 100% of the time it is it will come out you just Gotta let it do it’s thing
Did you leave the car running for 30 mins after you got hot air or did you turn car off then came back in 30 min ?
I have an m35 06 that just overheated last night and won't start, the lights just come on, pretty confused. Any advice? Cant afford a new engine
The Infiniti M 35 sedan? If the lights just come on I’m pretty sure sure if it doesn’t make a sound like it’s trying to turn over then definitely your battery probably died. I’ll check the battery then I’m pretty sure your starter is OK your alternator OK nothing wrong with those but if it’s overheating definitely airing your system for sure you just have to bleed it.
Also did you wait for this random bubbles to come up after you turned the car off? Or did you just let it idle?
No, those random little bubble just started popping up once the car was in idle, for I had my car on for about 5 hours just sitting there making sure you would see the coolant drop down once the heater is shooting out really really hot
My car over heats fans won’t turn on I replace radiator cooling fans today and still their not cutting on at operating temperature . They only turn on when I turn the ac on
I’ve never had the issues with my fans not turning on most likely if they’re not cutting on it’s either a fuse issue or wire but if you said you replaced it and their new fans, then I would check the fuse that controls the fans. See if that works.
@@DadeBoi_Czer where are the fuses located for the fan I only found one which is a 40 amp I swap it around with a 50 but still same problem
@@yonicsanchez226 I honestly don’t know I looked at a RUclips video to help me find the fuses I needed to switch when I had an issue, I wouldn’t know honestly why the fans wouldn’t be turning on that’s out of my knowledge range because I haven’t had to deal with that before
@@yonicsanchez226 Did you resolve your issue? What was it? I have the same issue. Overheat on idle then drops back down when I start driving. Fans are not turning on.
And my car is still overheating I broke the thermostat and put it in like that and it doesn't overheat anymore what do you think you could be my second guess is head gaskets?
Find the leak/leaks my guess well you’re saying you broke the thermostat so I’m guessing that’s why it’s overheating. A broken thermostat but check for leaks. Check your hoses.
@@DadeBoi_Czer no no I broke it on purpose so the car wouldn't overheat anymore some coolant in there and I checked all over and I don't have any leaks if I put the regular thermostat on it will overheat
@@Elshaka499 ah ok I get it. To be honest, I wouldn’t know why it’s overheating then if you have no leaks and it’s not overheating I wouldn’t know what’s going on… maybe the regular thermostat is not opening up. I’m sure you tested it right?
@@DadeBoi_Czer actually no I have not tested it that's what I'm going to do right now when I get home maybe they sold me a defective one 😔
@@DadeBoi_Czer but honestly bro I have faith in my G35 2004 coupe because it runs super smooth
Thank you
Mine does it only when the ac blowing and at a stop once driving the temp drops!!!!do you think this might be the issue?
That is air still in your system for sure do you have bubbles traveling through
Not sure
I would need to try your procedure for sure
@@sapboi104 i’ve helped a lot of people for sure with this issue. If you need any help just my name is the same on Instagram I could put you in our group chat and what it mainly is is you have to be patient I can walk you through it step-by-step if you need how I did it and everything OK
@@sapboi104 but I’m pretty positive on what you’re experiencing I’ve experienced about four times and it was always bubbles air pocket still traveling through my coolant system and I just had to bleed it again and just be patient and wait for all the bubbles to come out
Bro I bled the cooling system
I looked at it stared at it
ohh well looks like i blown a head gasket🤦🏽
What’s going on with your g?
sooo just take your time bleeding the system
And essentially your fix was just turning the heat on for a couple hours?
Yeah, just it’s about just being patient cause it’s gonna take a while for you to be for sure but when you put on the bucket on the radiator cap, fill it up to the like less than halfway because coolant might rise up for sure when your car gets to heating levels and it starts bubbling but then it’ll stop. And leave your bleeder port closed if you’re bleeding your system and yeah, keep the heater on just so you know when is really hot.
@@DadeBoi_Czer Thanks for responding famo 💪🏽
@@low5488 no problem if you run into anything hit me on instagram. Same name
Finally 🙏
Lol 😂 my b I took long
so dont use the bleeder AT ALL with your procedure or should i follow @wwefanaddictable 's method and just use the bleeder?
Personally, after I fill up the coolant from the radiator, and I watch the bleeder port and watch the coolant overflow out the bleeder port I cap the bleeder port and that’s it. I never open it again when it comes to bleeding the coolant system to get air out I personally always leave my bleeder port closed. The only time I’ve have ever opened. It is when I’m completely empty of coolant, and I have to refill straight from the radiator