Followed this guide today - a few comments. First, if you're having a hard time getting the first spring clip in and/or the retaining clip is having a hard time going in around the clutch, check that the tabs on the clutch are all the way seated down into the slots. I had to do this to get the clip on at all. Second, when reassembling to top assembly, put the plastic piece back on first with the peg on the plastic in the gap on the shaft. Then gently open the retaining clip and slide it down. Third, when putting on the agitator top piece, ensure that cam? clutch? plastic gear piece is seated properly before tightening down the bolt into the shaft. I had to wiggle it a bit to ensure that it was a clean fit. I hope that if you're struggling with the same parts I did, hethese observations will help :) Thank you very much for the instructions! Saved us a whole lotta money
This video saved me a ton of money but I did have a tough time getting the motor assembly back in. I could not get the brake cam to fit within the clutch assembly but, instead of going straight in, I finally figured I had to offset the clutch slightly to make sure the brake cam arm fit within the clutch then I could get the motor to seat. Thanks a bunch for this video.
I bought the replacement parts from Appliance parts and this video showed me how to replace the clutch. I would have never attempted to tear a machine apart without this video. Thanks and the washer is working great! Steve
I first must say that your video production is the best of any company that I seen on "RUclips" or anywhere else of the web, as a matter of fact (whoever produced these video must be a former "film school student"). The replication of the steps, that one must take to complete the job is top notch, completely demystified the process of a previously unknown subject.
Thank you so much for this video. I couldn't understand what it meant to "make sure the brake cam and clutch spring are opposite", and your narration made this small detail perfectly clear. Thanks to you, I spent $26 in parts as opposed to $1500 for a new washing machine. Awesome.
I was going to replace my machine before I saw this video. Saved me a whole bunch of money. Took about an hour and I took my time in somewhat cramped quarters. Thanks!
Great instructions and I couldn't have done it without this video. This video also saved me a lot of unnecessary work. Another RUclips video I watched, had you removing the cabinet and the motor,both steps are unnecessary . Matt is excellent at walking you through the steps needed to fix your appliance. My washer is running like a champ again. Thanks Matt ! I wish I would have checked this repair site last year when I paid over $350 for a repairman to replace a $200 motor. I know there are some repairs beyond my repair skill set but this one was a piece of cake. Also no more buying from a local parts store for me unless it's a $5 part not worth paying the shipping for . I order from APP's on Friday and my part arrived Saturday !
Awesome Video, Thank You!! My 2004 Whirlpool washer is on it's third drive coupler, and this video led me to replace the clutch which was absolutely worn out. Your parts arrived on time, and 30 minutes later, we're washing (and spinning) clothes again.
Love this. One suggestion: when reassembling, you might need to grab the brake cam and twist/push to get assembly to push in a bit more so the clutch can be reconnected to the washer. Had to go through several videos before finding that's what I needed to do. Otherwise, and awesome tutorial which helped me do my own fix. Thank you!!
I just wanted to say thank you, your videos are fantastic! I changed out the clutch assembly in about 30 minutes, probably would have been less if I didn't have such a tight area to work in. Your videos are very thorough and well thought out, and the suggestions at certain parts are excellent to help us avoid hiccups like removing wiring harnesses so they don't tear out when we remove the transmission! The Mrs. thanks you too, although I may have taken all of the credit. I can't remember seeing the machine spin this fast before, it vibrates quite a bit more and I suspect that's a function of it's speed and that now the transmission is working more efficiently the clothing should be rung out more now that it is at full operational speed. THanks!
Well done! I have watched at least 5 repair videos including this one. What separates this video from the rest in my opinion is all the in depth explanation of small details that get mentioned in the other videos but in this one it is thoroughly covered with good visual support.
Your video was great. I made a repair with OEM parts and discovered the new brake cam dirver was 1/8 and 3/16 inch taller than the original. The machine made all kinds of noise when it started the spin cycle but stopped once it got up to speed. I replaced the brake cam driver with the old one that was still in good shape. Wish I would have tested it before I moved it back into the laundry room the first time. Just because it's OEM doesn't mean it's right. Set them side by side to check.
Thanks for the detailed step by step instructions. It was a big help when I replaced the clutch on my washer, and your other video was very helpful in showing how to remove the washer cabinet and getting it back on again.. Job done!
this company is amazing. the clutch went on my Kenmore model 110. type 111 looked this vid up ordered the parts friday june 15th. they got here the next day sat the 16th. andi didnt have it over nighted that was reg shipping. and the video is so easy my wife knew how to reinstall is from memory from watching this THUMBS UP111
I was working on a older 8-10 years Maytag for three days. I like how all of you guys have the washers that are super clean. It would have been better had one person say if the transmission doesn’t come out then you might need to remove the drive! That might be the reason it’s stuck!
How lucky the first video I found was yours, and the model washer you work on in the video is the exact one I am working on! Video is well shot and clear, going to save me a lot of back and forth time figuring out what part to take out first!
Great videos by this company. I have used them for years to repair different appliances. Although in this particular video Matt didn't tell us to reinstall the agitator.
Thank you for watching our videos. We do apologize that he didn't say anything about reinstalling the agitator. If there is anything we can help you with please let us know.
Very good video. Covers almost everything. My Sears Kenmore washer has a different softener dispenser than the ones discussed in the video. It has two small tabs and is removed by grabbing the base and turning clockwise and then lifts out.
Nice video, especially since my washer is that exact same Kirkland/Whirlpool model so easy to follow along with. I had one issue you didn't warn about, when you have it on its side like this there's a good chance the triangle shaped suspension/skate plate may come loose as it's free floating. Be sure to line the 3 notches up on the corners with the 3 legs on the base or you'll have severe wobble during the spin cycle.
The brake drive cam is included in both kits. The full kit includes the clutch housing which should be changed it it is damaged. If the old clutch pads wore down and the rivits were rubbing on it then you wouldn't want to put a new lining kit into it. Like a car it would be bad to put new brake shoes on a damaged or warped rotor.
Goodness, this is so clear and simple that I'm going to give it a shot. Worst that happens is that I don't do it right and either have to call my dad or get a new washer (which will probably happen in the next 2-3 years anyway). Thank you!
@AbrilSong Assuming that everything has been rechecked as far as the repair goes, I would think it might be a leveling issue. It could be a little off level, you would be surprised how a little off level will make it shake. Make sure that when you tilt the washer forward that the rear feet actually drop and are not stuck in place due to corrosion or just being stuck, then adjust the front feet.
@scottsway 70 series does not really tell us what type of washer it is. I would suggest you get the model number and ask on our forum, one of our techs will help you out. Most washers of this type just have some sort of cover that can be pulled out of the upper agitator to get access to the bolt, with the model number the techs can tell you exactly whats in there.
Great video. I used it to replace the clutch on my kenmore 80 series washer in my rental property out of state. Everything went great, but when I gave it a test drive, the washer made a grinding noise when it began the spin cycle. The noise went away as it got up to full speed. Now that I am back home, I am questioning myself if I put the little plastic piece on the correct side of the clutch assembly. If I put it on the wrong side, would that grinding noise ensue? Thanks again....
Thank you for this very in depth video. I replaced the clutch which was bad. Also, replaced the coupler which wasn't. Just did so as a precautionary. washer worked great for about a week. Now it's making a terrible grinding noise while trying to spin. I've taken everything back apart and things seem to be working fine. any other idea of what it might be?
We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Great video, thanks. I changed the clutch on my Kenmore washer is about 2 hrs. However, now when the spin cycle starts there is a knocking noise that sounds like a machine gun for about 10 sec. When it gets up to full speed it stops. I've leveled the washer in both directions but the knocking still persists. Any ideas on what may be wrong??
Hi, first of all, awesome video. I've seen your complementary video (part #285790) and want to know if there is a case in which changing the lining kit only is not enough? I mean, the clutch plate walls get thin or something? the washer or retainer clip gets worn out/broken? Also, would like to know how much the transmission/motor combo weights (aprox). Thanks in advance.
I replaced all 6 of the white pads and checked all the springs which were good. The balance ring shows half full when holding it vertically. I don’t feel any play in the tub bearings. Washer is level but I still have some vibration during the spin cycle. I noticed that it is slow to spin up and intermittently the clothes won’t be as dry as they use to so I’m pretty sure the clutch is worn. Do you think this could take care of the vibration during the spin cycle too? Sometimes it does make a squeaking sound during the spin cycle too but not very consistent.
Excellent video. I am in the middle of replacing these parts, but I can't seem to be able to pull the transmission out, only about 6" or so, even tugged some. Any suggestions as to why it doesn't just slide right out? Roper top loader, RAS7133RQ1
I felt stupid after realizing I had left the bolt screwed in the top so I would lose it, if I remember correctly. Did the same thing reinstalling and tranny wouldn't seat all the way in. Note to self: put the bolt in a bowl and set aside, duh.@@cmccarthy
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong. The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance. I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests. Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin. I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens. Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Great video, I like putting a 2X4 across the floor to rest the back on so the water inlets don't get any pressure resting on them. Or and old sofa cushion.
I followed this procedure to the T and it works great for about a week and now my washer is doing the same thing again any idea why it could be doing that. I did buy a generic one off of eBay for half price I'm wondering if the shoes already burned up. It was the same part number and everything is the one that you sell and that the one that they sell everywhere else
Thanks for the video! I didnt order my part from you but after reading all the comments, I should have done so. Very impresssed with the time you put into responses and have a question myself: My machine is a Kitchenaid 750 and while replacing the clutch, would it be an appropriate time to clean some of the plumbing in my machine? It's 10 years old and would love to have it last another 10.
lrj3000 There is really not a lot of plumbing, you have the tub to pump hose and the pump to back wall hose. You can certainly take them off to make sure nothing is in there, while you are there look in the pump for anything. There are also cleaners that you can run through the washer to clean it. I would not really take much more apart if there is no problems right now. You can take a look at the base clean up and paint any corrosion. Take a look at all the springs and retainers, if any of the ends are almost worn through you can change them. Also move the suspension around there are 6 suspension pads in there so the tub should move around freely. If any are worn out or missing you might get some grinding.
I have a question. When I turn my washer on to spin, it makes a buzzing sound. Could it be the clutch assembly? I've already checked the washer coupling and there isn't any wear or tear or broken pieces
Thank you for this video! I feel confident that I put the clutch together correctly, but when I was putting the machine back together I wasn't quite as confident. When testing it, at the point where it should start spinning, the breaker trips!! Doing more research online, seems this is a clutch/brake issue (that's good, since that's what I was working on!). Any advice?
Coreen Ryan Does it sound like the motor is jammed? It would hum and then kick the breaker off. You may have to open it up see if you can find the issue. You can also post the problem on our repair forum and the techs can help you out.
Pro tip: after you put on the retaining clip, try moving it around to make sure it is fully and securely in place, and hasn’t slipped its groove nor is still not pushed in all the way.
Great video! It made this DIY very easy! However, I'm having a spring color conundrum: My OEM clutch kit included two springs: one was pre-installed within the clutch and navy blue. The other spring packed loose within the kit was light blue. The installation instructions said that my 27" wide regular, large, extra large or super capacity washer should use the "factory installed", "blue" spring, not the separate "black" spring that was for a 24" compact washer. To confuse the issue even more, the clutch I removed has what appears to be a (dirty) light blue spring that looks very much like the one packed loose in my kit...not the navy blue one already "factory installed" in the kit's clutch. Can anyone help me figure out which spring to use: the pre-installed navy blue one, or the loose light blue one?
hcpaydc Looks like they may have changed the color of the extra spring, the kit in the video had a green one even though the instructions said black. If you have a model that calls for the blue one I would go with the blue one already installed. If you take the blue one that is installed out it should be a little longer and should match the old one. You can also post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
Check out this video: "Washer Drive Block (Part # 389140) - How To Replace" If your clutch and brakes were making the tub slam to a stop it could have stripped out the notches in the block, which would make it still be very loud when stopping.
I took apart the the agitator to clean it of mold and nasty fabric softener, video is excellent besides me now not knowing how to stack the plastic pieces and metal for the top to go back together! Though I think I got it, let's see how load #1 spins.
We offer free technical advice and diagnosis outside of our videos, so we'll be glad to advise you on that repair if it turns out the way you had them assembled wasn't correct. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
This is very vague, please go to our forum and post this question in detail along with the model number of the washer. Our techs can help you diagnose the problem.
2:08 to 2:12 --- this little segment just saved me a bunch of time and worry. Those pieces came off when I pulled my driveshaft from below and I was a little uncertain if I had put them back right. There are like 4 ways they could go back together. Only one is right. White plastic piece goes on first (under the metal retaining clip. The white tooth should line up as shown here, and not between the two tabs. If you put it there, you will note the tooth does not contact the metal nicely.
Replacing the clutch was very easy. However, after all is done the washer spins and vibrates like it's going to leave the room. The washer now shakes, rattles and rolls...I have balanced the machine as shown in my book, but that isn't doing much good. The machine sits on a wood floor (not cement). When I first got the machine, I had the same trouble, but for some reason the shaking stopped until the spin cycle completely stopped. There is no unusual noise when the machine runs. Help!
We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
4:36 followed your instructions to drop the drive motor and transmission, expecting it to slide right out like in the video. Mine moved a couple inches and is now stuck. I noticed that you did not remove the drive block and spanner nut compared to some other RUclips videos. Should I now invest in the drive nut spanner wrench, or am I doing something wrong in expecting the transmission to slide straight out. At this point, I am ready to return the parts and bite the bullet and buy a new machine that won't last 3 years vs. fixing my 20 year old reliable.
There could be some debris or build up causing the part to get stuck. You can try some penetrating oil and just keep working at it to get the part out.
Check out this video: "Washer Drive Block (Part # 389140) - How To Replace" If the drive block notches are worn out or if the spin tube tabs are worn down it could cause the tub to jump as it is starting up. Sometimes you can bend the spin tube tabs back up enough to work but the block should be replaced if damaged.
Curious! You didnt remove the drive block and spanner nut? So im assuming theyll stay in place? Thanks Note: " It has lips on it" Lol. So it has dog ears, and lips? 😅
If you are able to access the clutch assembly without removing the drive block and spanner nut then they wouldn't need to be removed. Keep in mind this is just a generic video to show how the repair is done, so if your unit is a different model the repair could be slightly different.
I disassembled my machine completely except the motor and the drum, but when I put the drum sounds as if facedown water inside, but no water falls. What is the reason for the sound of water inside the drum?
We are always making new video but I am not sure we can do requests! Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
The clutch is spinning on the spin cycle, but the shaft and inner drum is not, would that indicate the drive block is worn out ?, (from the top it looks to be ok), i've got the spanner nut off, but i cannot lift out the inner tub.
shirleymae30 Not sure what model you have but I suggest that you post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
I have an a Roper by Whirlpool top-loading machine. I need to replace the clutch but CANNOT find the model number. Is the part used in this video (#285785), the standard part for Whirlpool machines?
Daniel Hurwitz The model numbers are usually located under the lid. It is always best to look up the parts by the model number as there are a few different clutches used over the years, on the direct drive models. The one in this video is by far the most common one, but it is not the only one.
What Model number is This Whirlpool Ultimate Care Il, it exactly like mine, mine doesn't have model Number, can you tell me model number of this one. Thank You!!
My washer spins, but as it spins, the bottom part of the agitator will skip. What I mean is that as the inner tub and agitator both spin at the same speed, every other second or so, the agitator will stop and then spin again with it. It is perceptible visually, as in you can see the tub blur around, but the agitator will stop for a second and then continue spinning with it, then stop, then go, etc.. I though maybe it was the clutch slipping, but from watching this video, if that were the case, the tub as a whole would not spin. I also took it apart and the clutch is on pretty well, there is no slippage.
jobzombi I would take the agitator off and make sure the teeth that lock onto the shaft are not stripped. That is a long shot from what you are describing, it could be a transmission problem. You can always post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you out!
jobzombi I found this thread on our forum and thought I would share it, the poster even posted a video of the problem. Please check it out and see if looks like the same problem you are having. forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/526108-agitator-moving-during-spin-cycle.html
Anyone out there?Know what this part is it's a thick pin, about 2 inches long, flat on one side, and a hole at the end It fell out as I was replacing the motor and transmission in my Whirlpool. Washer no idea where it came from.Any help would be appreciated.
hi, I have a quick question, I am looking for a specific part and I noticed it in your video. When the video is at 4:11, on the left side of the screen there is a clearish long cup (about 2 in long and 1in diameter), in this cup is a golden nail object, its round on 3 sides, flat on the other and comes to a point at one end with a hole near the point. can you please tell me what this is for?
locking pins? you went on to say they were installed at the factory and never really used again? what were the locking pins used for? was it for shipping or even stabilization?
Yes they were put in at the factory for shipping and released when the washer was installed. Unlike front load washers that require shipping bolts to be moved, the pins were never set up to be reused. Once the shipping strap with the cotter pins was removed they just dropped into the cups. It is in the installation manual if you still have it.
I followed the instructions, but when I slide the transmission shaft back into the hole, it goes all the way in except the last half inch. The bolt holes on the transmission are lined up, but are half and inch from being in contact with the screw holes on the bottom of the machine. If I put a bolt in the holes, it won't tighten because the trans. is not all the way in. What happened? I tried removing the clutch assembly then replacing transmission, same thing, it stops short half an inch. So it isn't the clucth stopping it. the shaft on top of the transmission contacts the bearing at the bottom of the machine.
Tim Toomey You can try turning and pushing up on the brake assembly, sometimes they drop down. Also make sure the brake cam is not lined up with the clutch spring.
AppliancePartsPros I thought I did. I'll go back and look at it again. My orientation of the brake cam driver may not be the same.as what you show. I'll try it again.
My washer does the same thing that the one pictured in this video although it is not the same model. I have a Kenmore 700 (110-28722700). I wanted to make sure that I could access the clutch easily before I placed the order. But when I moved the washer, I noticed a large amount of oil on the floor underneath. I'm thinking now that it's the transmission that needs to be replaced and not the clutch -assuming the clutch is failing because it's loaded with oil now.
Jeff Damal If it is leaking on the clutch it could cause it to slip. Once you find the leak you can repair the leak and top it off with oil or change the transmission. Also if you laid the machine on its back some oil may have come out the vent hole, if that's the case you can probably just clean it up. I do not know what you mean by large amount but a few ounces is not a big deal. At the top of the transmission there is the cover and shaft seal, at the bottom there is the shaft seal where the coupler mounts and the cover itself.
In the min 2:08 there is a white plastic piece under the retainer clip. One of the tipo of mine is broke, where I can get a replacement and what is the name of the piece. Thank you
It appears that it is called the agitator washer. The part number is going to be AP6013102. Below is the link to the part so you can take a look at it. www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-washer-agitator-wp8543666-ap6013102.html
This is something that can not be covered in RUclips comments. If you need detailed repair help, please go to our repair forum and enter your question. We have technicians there that can help you with the repair!.
i need help, i HAD a bad clutch wich i changed. now my brakes wont stop the drum. i took everything back apart. checked everything & put it back together & nothing changed. i no i put it back together right. anyone 0kz help. thx?
Followed this guide today - a few comments. First, if you're having a hard time getting the first spring clip in and/or the retaining clip is having a hard time going in around the clutch, check that the tabs on the clutch are all the way seated down into the slots. I had to do this to get the clip on at all.
Second, when reassembling to top assembly, put the plastic piece back on first with the peg on the plastic in the gap on the shaft. Then gently open the retaining clip and slide it down.
Third, when putting on the agitator top piece, ensure that cam? clutch? plastic gear piece is seated properly before tightening down the bolt into the shaft. I had to wiggle it a bit to ensure that it was a clean fit. I hope that if you're struggling with the same parts I did, hethese observations will help :)
Thank you very much for the instructions! Saved us a whole lotta money
If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
This video saved me a ton of money but I did have a tough time getting the motor assembly back in. I could not get the brake cam to fit within the clutch assembly but, instead of going straight in, I finally figured I had to offset the clutch slightly to make sure the brake cam arm fit within the clutch then I could get the motor to seat. Thanks a bunch for this video.
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
I bought the replacement parts from Appliance parts and this video showed me how to replace the clutch. I would have never attempted to tear a machine apart without this video. Thanks and the washer is working great! Steve
+Bearworf1 Glad the video helped you and thanks for the order!
Wierlpool background
I first must say that your video production is the best of any company that I seen on "RUclips" or anywhere else of the web, as a matter of fact (whoever produced these video must be a former "film school student"). The replication of the steps, that one must take to complete the job is top notch, completely demystified the process of a previously unknown subject.
Watch this guy ..u eased my mind. U make it look so easy.. I'm buying a clutch kit instead of a new machine because of YOU.. thanx man
You are welcome. Good luck with your repair and if there is anything we can help you with please let us know.
Thank you so much for this video. I couldn't understand what it meant to "make sure the brake cam and clutch spring are opposite", and your narration made this small detail perfectly clear. Thanks to you, I spent $26 in parts as opposed to $1500 for a new washing machine. Awesome.
+Andrew Epstein (ZenYogi) Glad the video helped you understand and saved you from buying a new washer!
Thanks I changed the drive assembly and changed the clutch by watching your videos and boom my washer is back in action!!! Thanks.
I was going to replace my machine before I saw this video. Saved me a whole bunch of money. Took about an hour and I took my time in somewhat cramped quarters. Thanks!
+Bob Bo Awesome, glad the video helped you save the washer!
Great instructions and I couldn't have done it without this video. This video also saved me a lot of unnecessary work. Another RUclips video I watched, had you removing the cabinet and the motor,both steps are unnecessary .
Matt is excellent at walking you through the steps needed to fix your appliance. My washer is running like a champ again. Thanks Matt !
I wish I would have checked this repair site last year when I paid over $350 for a repairman to replace a $200 motor. I know there are some repairs beyond my repair skill set but this one was a piece of cake.
Also no more buying from a local parts store for me unless it's a $5 part not worth paying the shipping for . I order from APP's on Friday and my part arrived Saturday !
Ralphs007 Awesome good job on getting the clutch changed!
Followed it step by step with my iphone next to me at all time.. Took me.. less than an hour. Very easy. Thanks guys!
Awesome Video, Thank You!! My 2004 Whirlpool washer is on it's third drive coupler, and this video led me to replace the clutch which was absolutely worn out. Your parts arrived on time, and 30 minutes later, we're washing (and spinning) clothes again.
Love this. One suggestion: when reassembling, you might need to grab the brake cam and twist/push to get assembly to push in a bit more so the clutch can be reconnected to the washer. Had to go through several videos before finding that's what I needed to do. Otherwise, and awesome tutorial which helped me do my own fix. Thank you!!
Thanks for the tip! Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
I just wanted to say thank you, your videos are fantastic! I changed out the clutch assembly in about 30 minutes, probably would have been less if I didn't have such a tight area to work in. Your videos are very thorough and well thought out, and the suggestions at certain parts are excellent to help us avoid hiccups like removing wiring harnesses so they don't tear out when we remove the transmission! The Mrs. thanks you too, although I may have taken all of the credit. I can't remember seeing the machine spin this fast before, it vibrates quite a bit more and I suspect that's a function of it's speed and that now the transmission is working more efficiently the clothing should be rung out more now that it is at full operational speed. THanks!
+briancnc Thank you! Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed up!
Literally best repair video ever made. Well done.
Well done! I have watched at least 5 repair videos including this one. What separates this video from the rest in my opinion is all the in depth explanation of small details that get mentioned in the other videos but in this one it is thoroughly covered with good visual support.
Thanks, glad the video helped you get the clutch changed!
Your video was great.
I made a repair with OEM parts and discovered the new brake cam dirver was 1/8 and 3/16 inch taller than the original. The machine made all kinds of noise when it started the spin cycle but stopped once it got up to speed. I replaced the brake cam driver with the old one that was still in good shape. Wish I would have tested it before I moved it back into the laundry room the first time.
Just because it's OEM doesn't mean it's right. Set them side by side to check.
Great video, it's clear straight to the point and shows all the parts as they come off and go back on thank you.
Thanks for the detailed step by step instructions. It was a big help when I replaced the clutch on my washer, and your other video was very helpful in showing how to remove the washer cabinet and getting it back on again.. Job done!
Awesome ladybug1629! Glad you got the washer fixed.
this company is amazing. the clutch went on my Kenmore model 110. type 111
looked this vid up ordered the parts friday june 15th. they got here the next day sat the 16th.
andi didnt have it over nighted that was reg shipping. and the video is so easy my wife knew how to reinstall is from memory from watching this THUMBS UP111
Your intro reminds me of Del Amitri's: "It's Feelings". Thanks for this thorough and detailed instruction help!
You're welcome!
I was working on a older 8-10 years Maytag for three days. I like how all of you guys have the washers that are super clean. It would have been better had one person say if the transmission doesn’t come out then you might need to remove the drive! That might be the reason it’s stuck!
We can’t get the transmission to come out.
How lucky the first video I found was yours, and the model washer you work on in the video is the exact one I am working on! Video is well shot and clear, going to save me a lot of back and forth time figuring out what part to take out first!
Great videos by this company. I have used them for years to repair different appliances. Although in this particular video Matt didn't tell us to reinstall the agitator.
Thank you for watching our videos. We do apologize that he didn't say anything about reinstalling the agitator. If there is anything we can help you with please let us know.
Very good video. Covers almost everything. My Sears Kenmore washer has a different softener dispenser than the ones discussed in the video. It has two small tabs and is removed by grabbing the base and turning clockwise and then lifts out.
+Glenn Laursen Gglad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Nice video, especially since my washer is that exact same Kirkland/Whirlpool model so easy to follow along with. I had one issue you didn't warn about, when you have it on its side like this there's a good chance the triangle shaped suspension/skate plate may come loose as it's free floating. Be sure to line the 3 notches up on the corners with the 3 legs on the base or you'll have severe wobble during the spin cycle.
Thanks a bunch for this video; you saved me a grip of cash. I found the #285785 for $12 on Amazon and fixed my machine in under an hour.
Thank you so much for this video. You saved us a ton of money and we (no experience) did it ourselves!
You're welcome. Glad we could help!
The brake drive cam is included in both kits. The full kit includes the clutch housing which should be changed it it is damaged. If the old clutch pads wore down and the rivits were rubbing on it then you wouldn't want to put a new lining kit into it. Like a car it would be bad to put new brake shoes on a damaged or warped rotor.
Goodness, this is so clear and simple that I'm going to give it a shot. Worst that happens is that I don't do it right and either have to call my dad or get a new washer (which will probably happen in the next 2-3 years anyway).
Thank you!
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
@AbrilSong Assuming that everything has been rechecked as far as the repair goes, I would think it might be a leveling issue. It could be a little off level, you would be surprised how a little off level will make it shake. Make sure that when you tilt the washer forward that the rear feet actually drop and are not stuck in place due to corrosion or just being stuck, then adjust the front feet.
thank you saved me hundreds 1 day delivery amazing
Awesome, glad you got the washer fixed!
Excellent video! This is certainly what's wrong with my washer.
You are welcome! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Great video - Time vs $$ $10 fix and time or $600 for a new washer?
@scottsway 70 series does not really tell us what type of washer it is. I would suggest you get the model number and ask on our forum, one of our techs will help you out. Most washers of this type just have some sort of cover that can be pulled out of the upper agitator to get access to the bolt, with the model number the techs can tell you exactly whats in there.
Great video. I used it to replace the clutch on my kenmore 80 series washer in my rental property out of state. Everything went great, but when I gave it a test drive, the washer made a grinding noise when it began the spin cycle. The noise went away as it got up to full speed. Now that I am back home, I am questioning myself if I put the little plastic piece on the correct side of the clutch assembly. If I put it on the wrong side, would that grinding noise ensue? Thanks again....
Hmmmm. Shouldn't you put the agitator back in? Thanks for the video!
Thank you for this very in depth video. I replaced the clutch which was bad. Also, replaced the coupler which wasn't. Just did so as a precautionary. washer worked great for about a week. Now it's making a terrible grinding noise while trying to spin. I've taken everything back apart and things seem to be working fine. any other idea of what it might be?
We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Great video, thanks. I changed the clutch on my Kenmore washer is about 2 hrs. However, now when the spin cycle starts there is a knocking noise that sounds like a machine gun for about 10 sec. When it gets up to full speed it stops. I've leveled the washer in both directions but the knocking still persists. Any ideas on what may be wrong??
Hi, first of all, awesome video. I've seen your complementary video (part #285790) and want to know if there is a case in which changing the lining kit only is not enough? I mean, the clutch plate walls get thin or something? the washer or retainer clip gets worn out/broken? Also, would like to know how much the transmission/motor combo weights (aprox). Thanks in advance.
exactly what I needed. THANK YOU
You are welcome. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
I replaced all 6 of the white pads and checked all the springs which were good. The balance ring shows half full when holding it vertically. I don’t feel any play in the tub bearings. Washer is level but I still have some vibration during the spin cycle. I noticed that it is slow to spin up and intermittently the clothes won’t be as dry as they use to so I’m pretty sure the clutch is worn. Do you think this could take care of the vibration during the spin cycle too? Sometimes it does make a squeaking sound during the spin cycle too but not very consistent.
If that clutch needs to be replaced, it can cause the issues you are having.
@@appliancepartspros ok, thank you!
You're welcome!
Excellent video. I am in the middle of replacing these parts, but I can't seem to be able to pull the transmission out, only about 6" or so, even tugged some. Any suggestions as to why it doesn't just slide right out? Roper top loader, RAS7133RQ1
Did you figure it out?
Same issue
I felt stupid after realizing I had left the bolt screwed in the top so I would lose it, if I remember correctly. Did the same thing reinstalling and tranny wouldn't seat all the way in. Note to self: put the bolt in a bowl and set aside, duh.@@cmccarthy
Amazing video guys thanks for the help and the parts my old Maytag is singing like new
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong.
The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance.
I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests.
Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin.
I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens.
Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Great video! easy to understand. I ordered the part and got it the next day. good job!
Sam matar Glad the video helped get your washer fixed. Thanks for the order!
Great video, I like putting a 2X4 across the floor to rest the back on so the water inlets don't get any pressure resting on them. Or and old sofa cushion.
Dee Cee Thanks for the tip, hope the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Thanks so much much this video is first class, I was able to complete the job easily.
Jim Smith Glad the video helped you get the washer up and running!
Matt does a great job!!!
I followed this procedure to the T and it works great for about a week and now my washer is doing the same thing again any idea why it could be doing that. I did buy a generic one off of eBay for half price I'm wondering if the shoes already burned up. It was the same part number and everything is the one that you sell and that the one that they sell everywhere else
What did you end up finding ?
Thanks for the video! I didnt order my part from you but after reading all the comments, I should have done so. Very impresssed with the time you put into responses and have a question myself:
My machine is a Kitchenaid 750 and while replacing the clutch, would it be an appropriate time to clean some of the plumbing in my machine? It's 10 years old and would love to have it last another 10.
lrj3000 There is really not a lot of plumbing, you have the tub to pump hose and the pump to back wall hose. You can certainly take them off to make sure nothing is in there, while you are there look in the pump for anything. There are also cleaners that you can run through the washer to clean it. I would not really take much more apart if there is no problems right now. You can take a look at the base clean up and paint any corrosion. Take a look at all the springs and retainers, if any of the ends are almost worn through you can change them. Also move the suspension around there are 6 suspension pads in there so the tub should move around freely. If any are worn out or missing you might get some grinding.
AppliancePartsPros Thank you very much. I'll give it a good once over and come to you for anythjng else I may need.
+AppliancePartsPros pm
Excellent directions. Thank you.
Loaded with practical tips!! Thank you! I've been working on mine and this really helped.
Thanks for the video! Helped me out a lot.
I have a Maytag . The bracket below tub with the three plastic glides is moving all around is plate supposed to be stationary as I think so.
Meant to first say video was great, put the new clutch on. Struggled getting shaft back in.
What is your model number?
Thanks for the video. Back in business. Works best if you follow the directions exactly.
I have a question. When I turn my washer on to spin, it makes a buzzing sound. Could it be the clutch assembly? I've already checked the washer coupling and there isn't any wear or tear or broken pieces
Thank you for this video! I feel confident that I put the clutch together correctly, but when I was putting the machine back together I wasn't quite as confident. When testing it, at the point where it should start spinning, the breaker trips!! Doing more research online, seems this is a clutch/brake issue (that's good, since that's what I was working on!). Any advice?
Coreen Ryan Does it sound like the motor is jammed? It would hum and then kick the breaker off. You may have to open it up see if you can find the issue. You can also post the problem on our repair forum and the techs can help you out.
Yes, it hums then trips the breaker.
Coreen Ryan You can always post the problem on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
Pro tip: after you put on the retaining clip, try moving it around to make sure it is fully and securely in place, and hasn’t slipped its groove nor is still not pushed in all the way.
Thank you for the tip.
Great video! It made this DIY very easy! However, I'm having a spring color conundrum: My OEM clutch kit included two springs: one was pre-installed within the clutch and navy blue. The other spring packed loose within the kit was light blue. The installation instructions said that my 27" wide regular, large, extra large or super capacity washer should use the "factory installed", "blue" spring, not the separate "black" spring that was for a 24" compact washer. To confuse the issue even more, the clutch I removed has what appears to be a (dirty) light blue spring that looks very much like the one packed loose in my kit...not the navy blue one already "factory installed" in the kit's clutch. Can anyone help me figure out which spring to use: the pre-installed navy blue one, or the loose light blue one?
hcpaydc Looks like they may have changed the color of the extra spring, the kit in the video had a green one even though the instructions said black. If you have a model that calls for the blue one I would go with the blue one already installed. If you take the blue one that is installed out it should be a little longer and should match the old one. You can also post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem.
Any reason to buy the full clutch versus just the band kit? I mean, what could go wrong with the cam driver?
Check out this video: "Washer Drive Block (Part # 389140) - How To Replace" If your clutch and brakes were making the tub slam to a stop it could have stripped out the notches in the block, which would make it still be very loud when stopping.
I took apart the the agitator to clean it of mold and nasty fabric softener, video is excellent besides me now not knowing how to stack the plastic pieces and metal for the top to go back together! Though I think I got it, let's see how load #1 spins.
We offer free technical advice and diagnosis outside of our videos, so we'll be glad to advise you on that repair if it turns out the way you had them assembled wasn't correct. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
Awesome video, thanks so much for the tutorial.
You're very welcome! And thanks for your feedback. :)
My retainer clip was bent. Hopefully, I can find one locally.
Thanks! And you are right :) I'll pass on your comment to the production team.
My gearcase won't come out. Do I have to remove the spanner nut?
This is very vague, please go to our forum and post this question in detail along with the model number of the washer. Our techs can help you diagnose the problem.
2:08 to 2:12 --- this little segment just saved me a bunch of time and worry. Those pieces came off when I pulled my driveshaft from below and I was a little uncertain if I had put them back right. There are like 4 ways they could go back together. Only one is right. White plastic piece goes on first (under the metal retaining clip. The white tooth should line up as shown here, and not between the two tabs. If you put it there, you will note the tooth does not contact the metal nicely.
Replacing the clutch was very easy. However, after all is done the washer spins and vibrates like it's going to leave the room. The washer now shakes, rattles and rolls...I have balanced the machine as shown in my book, but that isn't doing much good. The machine sits on a wood floor (not cement). When I first got the machine, I had the same trouble, but for some reason the shaking stopped until the spin cycle completely stopped. There is no unusual noise when the machine runs. Help!
Ok. So I've replaced the brake clutch, the coupler, and the dog agita. Washer still does not spin. Any advice for me. Kenmore 80s series. Thanks!!
We'd be happy to help you figure that out, but we'll need some additional information about the model and the problem. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need the model number for the appliance, so that we can look up diagrams and information about your specific unit to give you accurate advice. You can look here on our website to help you find the model number: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
4:36 followed your instructions to drop the drive motor and transmission, expecting it to slide right out like in the video. Mine moved a couple inches and is now stuck. I noticed that you did not remove the drive block and spanner nut compared to some other RUclips videos. Should I now invest in the drive nut spanner wrench, or am I doing something wrong in expecting the transmission to slide straight out. At this point, I am ready to return the parts and bite the bullet and buy a new machine that won't last 3 years vs. fixing my 20 year old reliable.
There could be some debris or build up causing the part to get stuck. You can try some penetrating oil and just keep working at it to get the part out.
@appliancepartspros thanks. Already coated it with penetrating oil last night without much luck.
Unfortunately, there isn't any trick to it, you will just need to keep working at it to get the part out.
THANK YOU! Great video. Works like new!
I have kenmore 70 series and inside the agitator has a plastic piece in the way of the bolt! I can get the agitator off? What do I do?
Check out this video: "Washer Drive Block (Part # 389140) - How To Replace" If the drive block notches are worn out or if the spin tube tabs are worn down it could cause the tub to jump as it is starting up. Sometimes you can bend the spin tube tabs back up enough to work but the block should be replaced if damaged.
Thank you for the videos.
Glad the videos are helping you keep things running!
Curious! You didnt remove the drive block and spanner nut? So im assuming theyll stay in place? Thanks
Note: " It has lips on it" Lol. So it has dog ears, and lips? 😅
If you are able to access the clutch assembly without removing the drive block and spanner nut then they wouldn't need to be removed. Keep in mind this is just a generic video to show how the repair is done, so if your unit is a different model the repair could be slightly different.
On the cam side of the clutch...what is that rubber ring that sits around the assembly? When I set my washer down, I first thought that was a belt.
jobzombi It is a sound dampener that goes around the brake shoe housing.
What if oil leaks out of the gear case? Will low oil cause the machine not to spin?
What is your model number?
I disassembled my machine completely except the motor and the drum, but when I put the drum sounds as if facedown water inside, but no water falls. What is the reason for the sound of water inside the drum?
maytag neptune TL.....FAV6800AWW....would like to know how to replace the outer tub (plastic) seal and bearing....thanks....
can you do a video for front load washer. I have Amana brand that needs clutch replaced and can't find 1 video for front load.
We are always making new video but I am not sure we can do requests! Without knowing what you have, I would suggest posting the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you troubleshoot the problem. forum.appliancepartspros.com/
Great video, thanks!
Andy Everett Glad the video helped you get the clutch changed out!
The clutch is spinning on the spin cycle, but the shaft and inner drum is not, would that indicate the drive block is worn out ?, (from the top it looks to be ok), i've got the spanner nut off, but i cannot lift out the inner tub.
shirleymae30 Not sure what model you have but I suggest that you post the problem
along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs
can help you troubleshoot the problem.
I have an a Roper by Whirlpool top-loading machine. I need to replace the clutch but CANNOT find the model number. Is the part used in this video (#285785), the standard part for Whirlpool machines?
Daniel Hurwitz The model numbers are usually located under the lid. It is always best to look up the parts by the model number as there are a few different clutches used over the years, on the direct drive models. The one in this video is by far the most common one, but it is not the only one.
What Model number is This Whirlpool Ultimate Care Il, it exactly like mine, mine doesn't have model Number, can you tell me model number of this one. Thank You!!
My washer spins, but as it spins, the bottom part of the agitator will skip. What I mean is that as the inner tub and agitator both spin at the same speed, every other second or so, the agitator will stop and then spin again with it. It is perceptible visually, as in you can see the tub blur around, but the agitator will stop for a second and then continue spinning with it, then stop, then go, etc.. I though maybe it was the clutch slipping, but from watching this video, if that were the case, the tub as a whole would not spin. I also took it apart and the clutch is on pretty well, there is no slippage.
jobzombi I would take the agitator off and make sure the teeth that lock onto the shaft are not stripped. That is a long shot from what you are describing, it could be a transmission problem. You can always post the problem along with the appliance model number on our repair forum and the techs can help you out!
jobzombi I found this thread on our forum and thought I would share it, the poster even posted a video of the problem. Please check it out and see if looks like the same problem you are having. forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/526108-agitator-moving-during-spin-cycle.html
will it be obvious that i'll need one spring vs the other? are they color coded?
ronerx The springs should be color coded and in the instructions it will tell you which spring goes with what washer style.
Very good video!
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
Anyone out there?Know what this part is it's a thick pin, about 2 inches long, flat on one side, and a hole at the end It fell out as I was replacing the motor and transmission in my Whirlpool. Washer no idea where it came from.Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry, what is the model number of the you're working with?
hi, I have a quick question, I am looking for a specific part and I noticed it in your video. When the video is at 4:11, on the left side of the screen there is a clearish long cup (about 2 in long and 1in diameter), in this cup is a golden nail object, its round on 3 sides, flat on the other and comes to a point at one end with a hole near the point. can you please tell me what this is for?
These are locking pin that were installed at the factory, they are never really used again so if it fell out you can toss it!
locking pins? you went on to say they were installed at the factory and never really used again? what were the locking pins used for? was it for shipping or even stabilization?
Yes they were put in at the factory for shipping and released when the washer was installed. Unlike front load washers that require shipping bolts to be moved, the pins were never set up to be reused. Once the shipping strap with the cotter pins was removed they just dropped into the cups. It is in the installation manual if you still have it.
Ok, dumb question. Why does it have a retaining ring AND a retaining clip?
I followed the instructions, but when I slide the transmission shaft back into the hole, it goes all the way in except the last half inch. The bolt holes on the transmission are lined up, but are half and inch from being in contact with the screw holes on the bottom of the machine. If I put a bolt in the holes, it won't tighten because the trans. is not all the way in. What happened? I tried removing the clutch assembly then replacing transmission, same thing, it stops short half an inch. So it isn't the clucth stopping it. the shaft on top of the transmission contacts the bearing at the bottom of the machine.
Tim Toomey You can try turning and pushing up on the brake assembly, sometimes they drop down. Also make sure the brake cam is not lined up with the clutch spring.
Exact same thing happened to me yesterday. That last half inch defeats me.
Tim Wright Did you both make sure to check the brakes and brake cam?
AppliancePartsPros
I thought I did. I'll go back and look at it again. My orientation of the brake cam driver may not be the same.as what you show. I'll try it again.
My washer does the same thing that the one pictured in this video although it is not the same model. I have a Kenmore 700 (110-28722700). I wanted to make sure that I could access the clutch easily before I placed the order. But when I moved the washer, I noticed a large amount of oil on the floor underneath. I'm thinking now that it's the transmission that needs to be replaced and not the clutch -assuming the clutch is failing because it's loaded with oil now.
Jeff Damal If it is leaking on the clutch it could cause it to slip. Once you find the leak you can repair the leak and top it off with oil or change the transmission. Also if you laid the machine on its back some oil may have come out the vent hole, if that's the case you can probably just clean it up. I do not know what you mean by large amount but a few ounces is not a big deal. At the top of the transmission there is the cover and shaft seal, at the bottom there is the shaft seal where the coupler mounts and the cover itself.
6:54, what's the part number of that washer? Mine only has one tab and it looks pretty worn out.
Jeremy x The part number is: AP2905330. We have it in stock!
What is the shaft won’t move really tight
If the shaft on the gearcase is seized up then you would need to replace the gearcase.
In the min 2:08 there is a white plastic piece under the retainer clip. One of the tipo of mine is broke, where I can get a replacement and what is the name of the piece. Thank you
What is the model number of your washer?
@@appliancepartspros Mod: 23832100 Ser: CM3084689111 Kenmore 80 series
It appears that it is called the agitator washer. The part number is going to be AP6013102. Below is the link to the part so you can take a look at it.
www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-washer-agitator-wp8543666-ap6013102.html
@@appliancepartspros Thank you !!!
You are welcome. If there is anything else we can help you with please let us know.
thank you Sir
Thanks, glad the video helped you get the clutch fixed!
This is something that can not be covered in RUclips comments. If you need detailed repair help, please go to our repair forum and enter your question. We have technicians there that can help you with the repair!.
Pretty good ,,, Professional work,,,Thanks for explain step by step ,,,do more faster and perfect ,,,givyou like and subscribe,,, thanks again.
i need help, i HAD a bad clutch wich i changed. now my brakes wont stop the drum. i took everything back apart. checked everything & put it back together & nothing changed. i no i put it back together right. anyone 0kz help. thx?