Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Learning How to Mill Linoleum -
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2018
- My journey to unravel the secrets of CNC carving linoleum has spanned the country. Here's everything I learned along the way...
And yes, I realize that I probably should have just started with 3D pocketing from the get go. The 2D calculation was a bit of an academic exercise, but the same type of math would allow people in Carbide Create to also pocket out shapes with a V-bit.
TLDR Linoleum Machining Summary @ Carbide3D:
• Basic Guide to Milling...
Thank you Ben for hosting me:
/ benjmyers1
www.instagram....
Fusion 360 Arc Error Resolution:
• Fixing GRBL's G2/G3 Ar...
--
Subscribe to the Carbide3D Channel for instructional CNC content: / carbide3d
Help support my experimental CNC content: / winstonmoy
Check out my second channel to see life outside the shop: / winstonmakesmore
We've been milling a variety of cheeses for the aerospace industry for a while now, and you're right on the money about it's issues. Where we're struggling is with lathing gouda. Workholding is a PITA!
why TF are you milling cheese for aerospace?! so good
All the technical knowledge you dropped about how v bits cut was really helpful.
Great video as always. Really cool project. A lot more video was shot in my shop than I realized. Thanks for letting me be involved!
3:56 -> this is super helpful. I’ve been “lying” to f360 and guessing a straight endmill of ~0.005” diameter and using the same vbit I used in the engrave ((so its one exported toolpath w/o a tool change) . It’s been working for me but this is more elegant and predictable. I always learn something from your videos even when the thumbnail looks like something totally different than what I do with my hoppy cnc. Thanks Winston.
Yo this is dope! I started following your channel recently, since I'm trying to get to grips with a pocket NC that I have access to. Great stuff Winston!
Thank you for the pocketing mill fix, it's a lot easier then switching to a flat bit and adding an operation.
wow what perfect timing i was just ordering linoleum blocks to make some stamps as a gift and this video clarified some of my misconceptions and taught me a ton!
Really interesting video! carving woodcuts and linocuts on my machine is something I've been getting more into recently, and I'm looking forward to incorporating some of your tips into the process! I'm curious how different types of lino will react. Typically the golden color blocks have a softer cheese or crumbly cork feel to them when carving by hand (and machine apparently), but I typically use "Battle Ship Gray" linoleum material, that holds tighter detail and has a more plastic feel. Hopefully I'll be able to get a good recipe for carving it! Thanks for the video!
Since you are now part of Shapeoko and Carbide 3D - please do a series of maybe 2 basic startup on a Shapeoko
I didn't understand any of this, but I'm coming back when I get a CNC!
Pretty cool, I may have to try this out. Haven't played with linoleum printing since art class in school
I'm pretty sure there is a feature for angled surfaces in one of the pocketing tools adaptive clear, pocket, or contour. I believe it's in the multiple depths section.
The various bit type restrictions in Fusion CAM really suck. Technically, a "v-bit" is just a straight flute tapered mill and, incidentally, you might want to choose spiral fluted tapered mill for deeper engraving due to better chip evacuation. To add even more confusion, there are chamfer mills completely unsuitable for "v-engraving" (with brazed inserts or single oval flute), yet Fusion seems to support engrave only with that class of mills (and spot drills, which is even more ridiculous).
One option is freezing the material first, that makes it hard and easier to mill.
Have you thought about freezing the material with something like CO2? I use CO2 as my cutting gas on my laser when cutting acrylic as it offers the acrylic a quicker chance to resolidify due to the temperature differential. Generally speaking, the thicker the acrylic the greater the need and result.
I haven't considered CO2, though I have heard of cold air guns. CFM usage is too high though. Are you using canned air or something?
I like what Applied science did with his neoprene cutting experiments. I've thought about doing a dry ice bath with something like alcohol as a conductive medium. LN2 would be even better, but more problematic to acquire.
I would worry about dry ice making it too brittle. I bottle the ugliest tank I could find from my local PepsiCo guy. I did have to purchase a regulator and gauge as each gas it’s own unique thread set. For my laser application, the tank is upright and standard air fittings are used. If the tank was inverted then you would get mostly liquid and some gas. I have the local fire extinguisher guy fill my tank as he is the cheapest around. It’s about a $20 refill and you are charged by weight. I put my tank in the chest freezer before a fill up as it will allow for a greater volume to be filled. Where are you getting your stamp material? Now you have me curious as to how it will do on the laser.
@@LeRoyLincoln Right now just random art supply places. May narrow down a single source in the future for consistency.
I'm struggling with machining this stuff right now. So what is the best bit to use? This is what I got from the video: Thicken thin lines up. Use multiple step downs. Use climb cuts. Use a tapered endmill. Is that it?
Please do a video of you milling a block of cheese XD
if your only making 1 or 2 at a time freeze the entire block in liquid nitrogen. doing this will harden the material enough to get a clean cut. you should be able to machine faster due to the harness of the material when frozen. being you are using a rather large block of wood under the linoleum it should retain its thermal properties for enough time to machine. if anything its worth a shot.
I have a question how would one cut a piece of stock with a 30 to 35° series of slots?
Rubber stamps only with a laser cutter. I achieve extreme detail and is a matter of minutes. CNC is suitable for brass stamps. Also linoleum as a material is not ideal as it has a hard surface that does not absorb normal ink. We used it mainly at my school of arts for patterns that we carved by hand and pressed on paper but with thick CMYK paste inks.
Have you tried lino cuts with a laser cutter?
I feel like I’m having De Ja Vue all over again. 🤣
Haha, I need to space these out more...
Holy crap!!!! did you see the machine deflect when inking the stamper?!
That's not the machine deflecting. That's a flimsy piece of cladding that covers the solid frame and steel rails. It's basically cosmetic.
@@WinstonMakes Whew!! much better.
I think that’s just showing how much power is in Winston’s arms!
Makes total sense now that i see the Y axis runs in those slots.
Somewhere online a CNCer was freezing their soft material before milling it. Would this perhaps help with milling linoleum?
Linoleum is pretty good as is, softer rubbers would benefit, but keeping them chilled for the duration of the machining op is trickier.
Are there any other widely available materials that can be useful for stamping?
Make or Break Shop made a stamp from a softer rubber, but it didn't cut as cleanly. For printing purposes, you could even just carve a block of wood.
DreadDeimos maybe rubber flooring material?
Milling a mold in a harder material then casting in it with a softer material may have better results
Is the arcing artefact present when using freecad on grbl? I noticed inkscape couldn't output true circles when doing 4mm diameter holes, but freecad looked perfect to me (on gtbl).
I made a freecad video. (I avoid fusion because they might yank it away...)
Never used Freecad so I don't know. I have noticed that Inkscape doesn't do well with imported splines and certain curves though. They either don't come in at all, or the radiuses/fillets are inverted sometimes.
Could you machine a mould to cast some kind of curing soft material (Like a silicone rubber) into it? that way you can use a hard material for the resolution and ease of machining but also have the benefit of the finished stamp squishing a little and conforming to the printing surface. It's an added step for sure but mixing silicone doesn't actually take that long and then you can let it cure overnight or while you're doing other things in the shop. You'd then have the best of both worlds (resolution and squishiness) instead of compromising on the finished product to eliminate one more operation.
I seem to fall into the trap where I want to use my CNC for every single thing that I make because it's hard to get out of the machining design headspace but there are always other tools and manufacturing processes that don't always cost too much and would give a far better finish than what I could achieve with my well trained spiny thing.
Yea, definitely possible. Just need to ensure you are smart about the way you cut so the surface is as smooth as possible.
hmmm this is a great idea. I'm struggling to carve some linoleum stamps for block printing flyers for my business. but I make products from silicone and urethane molds in my biz so... you got me thinking. Thanks!
Thank you Winston!
I think you just pointed out something to me that I have been over looking in my engraving, I’ve been having difficulty with the depth of cut, always seems to be too deep, but I think you just pointed out that the real tool has a flat spot but unless you enter that in the tool data base the software thinks it come to a true point, so i’ve been touching off the tool to set the Z axis zero and it’s been on the flat spot ???
That’s why I’ve been too deep?
Does that seem right ?
It shouldn't go deeper, but your cuts will be sloppier. Because instead of thinking it's cutting at a radius of 0 at the tip, it's actually cutting wider. So your text might end up a little fatter than expected. I always used to zero off a few sheets of paper off the actual surface of my wood when using "dumb" engraving software. You can always cut a second time lower if you're not cutting deep enough. Can't go the other way.
Winston Moy
Exactly, deeper (theoretically) if there was an actual point, but yes wider, with a small flat spot at the bottom
And yes I have been compensating just as you suggest, by starting high, and making a deeper cut when needed.
Just couldn’t figure out why, until you pointed that out, thanks.
My brain has been overwhelmed lately 😆
The weird aspect of climb vs conventional is that in the first pass, it is always climb on one side, and conventional on the other side, no matter what you choose.
Unless you do adaptive with a helical ramp.
Would love to give this a shot with my logo, but I think the details are going to be way too tight :/
If you skipped the text, or maybe used "M.B.F." you might have a shot.
Winston Moy I’ve been considering using M.B.F to shorten things up. But even just looking at the gaps in the arms and legs in the logo it might be tough
CNCheese inbound.
yeah fusion 360 is way too expensive for someone like me with a very small pension it was nice to try but all of a sudden it stopped all my files somewhere in the cloud unreachable so thanks but no thanks for me kind regards Hans
ok...wait - what?
what is a program you use?
vetric aspire, then fusion 360
Way not to make things simple Winston!! You do vids for Carbide but don't use their software at all and whiz through the steps you take with F360. Not helpful at all.