Thanks for this video. Had this shudder in the front end of my 890 for ages and thought I'd have to take it to the shop. Your video made it a 20min job and the shudder is gone.
Both my bikes had bad headshake out the box, with the 890r a bit worse with that knocking sound. Sounded like my bashplate or something was loose on breaking, kinda random, but the headshake was always present on asphalt at 120 or so and above kmh. Had a 790r and now a 890r. Both required this tweak well under first 1000km service. Also good to revisit the process a 2nd time a while after just to be sure and for peace of mind, Seems the bearing needs to seat properly and then requires a retorque after a short while. Dealer did this first one on the 790r just like this, no bar removal. 15 minutes and like a different bike riding on rails after that. Did the 890 myself and all good after that. Cause of much squirrely headshake discussions this is but easy to remedy. Great video!
Great feedback! I think these bikes need to be revisited just as you said until that headset is "seated in". It took mine getting pretty loose on downhills and hitting front brake hard before it occurred to me what was happening. There had mind a mild handlebar sense of looseness on gravel that I couldn't quite pinpoint, you felt it too. But tightening up the headset took it away 100%. Thank you for commenting! Ride on!
Very good to hear!! About 700 miles or so in on my ‘24 890AR I’m getting headshake above 65mph and I’m excited to try this remedy to see if it can get rid of it for me!!
Thanks. Less than 400 miles on mine and very loose front end. As per the repair manual I opted to remove the handlebar and use a torque wrench on the main head bolt to 18 Nm. It was so loose that I could turn it by hand with the big 27mm socket. 20 Nm when re-bolting up the handlebar. The dealer where I bought it should have checked this as part of the $$$s I paid for their prep fee. This should be part of regular maintenance to check, so might as learn how to do it.
John, thank you so much for this! I had it made by the dealer since it's still on warranty and got rid of the excessive vibration it was doing on the handlebar. It was actually upsetting the front suspension also.
You're welcome, thanks for your positive feedback! I have never had a headset loosen up so quick when new. They must be coming from the factory a little loose. Good to hear your experience of it coming through handlebars if it gets too loose, that could help someone else. Thanks again! 👍
Glad it was useful, thank you for positive feedback. I think once the headset bearings settle in a little it just needs a little snug to finish the job. Great bike you are riding by the way! 👍
I check this when riding on a flat even surface, just putting left hand in between triple clamp and frame (or the race) and doing a few front quick brake push, you will feel the play between parts if there is any.... that way you take out any vibration that might confuse your loose headset feeling, I check this once in a while, just in case. And after tightning the main clamp nut, just put a rag or bag between the floor and tire...that eliminates alot of the friction of tire so you can check if its moving freely ir not
Giving this a try right now. My headset nut was torqued to spec but I gave it a tiny 1/8 of turn tighter. KTM 790s are notorious for warped front rotors and I've heard anything from wheel hub powder coat being uneven to bad rotors to headset loose. There has to be a reason they changed the wheel hubs on the 890s and I see far less forum posts about warped rotors Anyways my brakes pulse the last 20ft or so of braking and it's awful. Trying this in hopes of being a fix as I don't want to put new OEM rotors on the bike just to possibly warp again nor do I want to replace rotors and wheel hubs unless I know it will resolve the issue and not creep back in a few thousand miles. Rambling is done, thank you so much for the video. I appreciate it and as I said, giving it a try now!
@tjomasleal554 - I also have brake pulsing when coming to a stop with my 2022 890R. Did this adjustment resolve your issue, or did you have resort to new rotors and/or hub? I’m also trying to avoid doing the latter unless absolutely necessary. Thx for any help you can provide. - LJ
@@ljcookson9957 So mine was already torqued to spec. Meaning it did not resolve my issue. I cleaned my brake rotors pretty thoroughly and that helped a bit but the pulsing is still there and my cruise control no longer works because of it. I wont replace the rotors because the OEM brand is really about the only decent option I can find in the states. I am going to order replacement bolts for the rotors, pull them off and sand down the wheel hubs. I don't have any experience with that type of work but I have a friend who is gonna help. If I remember I'll try to update my comment here but no promises. Lol I'm also pulling the rotors to mount and run them on a dial indicator to check if they are truly out of spec or if it's the wheel hub causing excessive runout
Thank you very much brother, I was really disappointed in having acquired this motorcycle, since I have only done one route over stones and in the end that situation happened that just as you describe, I was going to go complain to the former owner for having sold me something that did not work, now it is It's just a readjustment and that's it, but isn't it good that every time I go off road I need to tighten the nut, so will I need to include those tools in my travel kit?
Found your video post on ADVrider in the front brake grabbing thread. So did you have front brake issue with grabbing / diving just before coming to full stop? Did tightening the headset solve problem? Thanks for great video. Kam
When you lifted the bike, were you able to feel the play in the headset by rocking handlebars fore and aft? I have a brand new 2023 890 Adventure R and get a knocking noise and feeling in the front end when on rough road and dirt. Don't notice it under braking. I've been looking all over the front end for this noise and I can only assume it's either steering head bearing preload or forks when fully extending, like "topping out". I've tried applying the front brake and rocking bike fore and aft but no knock/clunk. I can't seem to replicate the problem unless I'm actually riding it in the right conditions...
Same here! I only feel the thump at times on rough terrain (without use of the brake), and it feels like the head, but everything is spec. I do suspect that what we are feeling is the suspension in the forks... Now braking I can feel agreater thunk caused by the floating rotor buttons, but that is fairly common.
That center pinch bolt should be the same as all the other torx not a 6 side bolt thats not original part someones changed that maybe thats why you headset is loose
John, I picked up a new 890 from the dealer about 2 weeks ago. It's been dumping snow here in Idaho so I haven't had a chance to ride until today. I took it out and immediately noticed my front wheel and bars were not lined up. When the bars are straight, the wheel is pointing slightly left. The dealer said they will fix it, but that's a 4 hour drive there and back. What would you recommend for doing it myself? I'm thinking loosen the axel, lower, upper, and then possibly that top stem nut? and that little bolt you out blue lock tight on? Then try to pump it and see what happens? I'm so scared since its a new bike.
I’m having some issues with mine beside the bearings. It feels extremely jerky, everytime i go on/off the throttle in street or rally mode it feels so jerky, like the chain lacked tension, even tho i checked the tension a million times and its perfectly lubed, i dont know that to do at this point, with 4500 miles, the bike doesn’t feel like it felt when i picked it up from the dealer. Do you have any idea what it could be? Also the chain makes quite a lot of noise, but as i said, i checked it a million times. Help :(
I have an 890r and need this done. I'm curious, why do you need to loosen the pinch bolts on the left and right side? Not being critical, just want to understand. Thank you!
Rusty ... the reason you need to loosen the pinch bolts on the left and right sides (of the upper triple clamp) is because the headset is attached to the forks via a PAIR of triple clamps. The lower triple clamp is not touched - so in order to reduce the (excess) clearance in the headset bearings, you must free the upper triple clamp from all points of friction. Removing the single bolt at the upper headset bearing is an obvious need as when you tighten the headset bearing with the 27 mm wrench, that same upper triple clamp must also move down the same amount on both the stem and the top of the forks. Hope this helps.
@@scottadams513 Hi Scott, after thinking about it a minute it made perfect sense. I did have to tighten the bearings a bit and the slop is now gone. I'm glad I saw your video because I did in fact loosen the upper pinch bolts. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
Rusty … you’re welcome, but I was not the one who authored nor posted the Twisted Throttle video. I just saw your question and had the understanding to share. Thanks to those guys for making such a great entry here!
Thanks for this video. Had this shudder in the front end of my 890 for ages and thought I'd have to take it to the shop. Your video made it a 20min job and the shudder is gone.
Both my bikes had bad headshake out the box, with the 890r a bit worse with that knocking sound. Sounded like my bashplate or something was loose on breaking, kinda random, but the headshake was always present on asphalt at 120 or so and above kmh.
Had a 790r and now a 890r. Both required this tweak well under first 1000km service.
Also good to revisit the process a 2nd time a while after just to be sure and for peace of mind, Seems the bearing needs to seat properly and then requires a retorque after a short while.
Dealer did this first one on the 790r just like this, no bar removal. 15 minutes and like a different bike riding on rails after that. Did the 890 myself and all good after that.
Cause of much squirrely headshake discussions this is but easy to remedy.
Great video!
Great feedback! I think these bikes need to be revisited just as you said until that headset is "seated in". It took mine getting pretty loose on downhills and hitting front brake hard before it occurred to me what was happening. There had mind a mild handlebar sense of looseness on gravel that I couldn't quite pinpoint, you felt it too. But tightening up the headset took it away 100%. Thank you for commenting! Ride on!
Very good to hear!! About 700 miles or so in on my ‘24 890AR I’m getting headshake above 65mph and I’m excited to try this remedy to see if it can get rid of it for me!!
@@jaredandersen82 I am very confident it will pal.
Thanks. Less than 400 miles on mine and very loose front end. As per the repair manual I opted to remove the handlebar and use a torque wrench on the main head bolt to 18 Nm. It was so loose that I could turn it by hand with the big 27mm socket. 20 Nm when re-bolting up the handlebar. The dealer where I bought it should have checked this as part of the $$$s I paid for their prep fee. This should be part of regular maintenance to check, so might as learn how to do it.
Thank you. My 2023 adventure R had that same feeling. Now it’s fixed. Had to turn mine almost a full half turn. But all good now.
John, thank you so much for this! I had it made by the dealer since it's still on warranty and got rid of the excessive vibration it was doing on the handlebar. It was actually upsetting the front suspension also.
You're welcome, thanks for your positive feedback! I have never had a headset loosen up so quick when new. They must be coming from the factory a little loose. Good to hear your experience of it coming through handlebars if it gets too loose, that could help someone else. Thanks again! 👍
Thank you Moto John for taking the time to make this video.
started feeling it on Norden recently. tnx for video :)
Glad it was useful, thank you for positive feedback. I think once the headset bearings settle in a little it just needs a little snug to finish the job. Great bike you are riding by the way! 👍
I check this when riding on a flat even surface, just putting left hand in between triple clamp and frame (or the race) and doing a few front quick brake push, you will feel the play between parts if there is any.... that way you take out any vibration that might confuse your loose headset feeling, I check this once in a while, just in case. And after tightning the main clamp nut, just put a rag or bag between the floor and tire...that eliminates alot of the friction of tire so you can check if its moving freely ir not
Giving this a try right now. My headset nut was torqued to spec but I gave it a tiny 1/8 of turn tighter. KTM 790s are notorious for warped front rotors and I've heard anything from wheel hub powder coat being uneven to bad rotors to headset loose.
There has to be a reason they changed the wheel hubs on the 890s and I see far less forum posts about warped rotors
Anyways my brakes pulse the last 20ft or so of braking and it's awful. Trying this in hopes of being a fix as I don't want to put new OEM rotors on the bike just to possibly warp again nor do I want to replace rotors and wheel hubs unless I know it will resolve the issue and not creep back in a few thousand miles.
Rambling is done, thank you so much for the video. I appreciate it and as I said, giving it a try now!
@tjomasleal554 - I also have brake pulsing when coming to a stop with my 2022 890R. Did this adjustment resolve your issue, or did you have resort to new rotors and/or hub? I’m also trying to avoid doing the latter unless absolutely necessary. Thx for any help you can provide. - LJ
@@ljcookson9957 So mine was already torqued to spec. Meaning it did not resolve my issue. I cleaned my brake rotors pretty thoroughly and that helped a bit but the pulsing is still there and my cruise control no longer works because of it.
I wont replace the rotors because the OEM brand is really about the only decent option I can find in the states. I am going to order replacement bolts for the rotors, pull them off and sand down the wheel hubs.
I don't have any experience with that type of work but I have a friend who is gonna help. If I remember I'll try to update my comment here but no promises. Lol
I'm also pulling the rotors to mount and run them on a dial indicator to check if they are truly out of spec or if it's the wheel hub causing excessive runout
Thank you very much brother, I was really disappointed in having acquired this motorcycle, since I have only done one route over stones and in the end that situation happened that just as you describe, I was going to go complain to the former owner for having sold me something that did not work, now it is It's just a readjustment and that's it, but isn't it good that every time I go off road I need to tighten the nut, so will I need to include those tools in my travel kit?
thanks mate, i have this issue
My 2022 is doing the same thing. I'm taking it in for it's 600 mile service and I'll have them do it. Good to know how though.
Found your video post on ADVrider in the front brake grabbing thread. So did you have front brake issue with grabbing / diving just before coming to full stop? Did tightening the headset solve problem? Thanks for great video. Kam
When you lifted the bike, were you able to feel the play in the headset by rocking handlebars fore and aft? I have a brand new 2023 890 Adventure R and get a knocking noise and feeling in the front end when on rough road and dirt. Don't notice it under braking. I've been looking all over the front end for this noise and I can only assume it's either steering head bearing preload or forks when fully extending, like "topping out". I've tried applying the front brake and rocking bike fore and aft but no knock/clunk. I can't seem to replicate the problem unless I'm actually riding it in the right conditions...
I have the same issues!
Same here! I only feel the thump at times on rough terrain (without use of the brake), and it feels like the head, but everything is spec.
I do suspect that what we are feeling is the suspension in the forks...
Now braking I can feel agreater thunk caused by the floating rotor buttons, but that is fairly common.
Update: at 3,500 miles, the head bolt was loose. I tightened to spec which did permit over 1/2 turn on that bolt
That center pinch bolt should be the same as all the other torx not a 6 side bolt thats not original part someones changed that maybe thats why you headset is loose
John, I picked up a new 890 from the dealer about 2 weeks ago. It's been dumping snow here in Idaho so I haven't had a chance to ride until today. I took it out and immediately noticed my front wheel and bars were not lined up. When the bars are straight, the wheel is pointing slightly left. The dealer said they will fix it, but that's a 4 hour drive there and back. What would you recommend for doing it myself? I'm thinking loosen the axel, lower, upper, and then possibly that top stem nut? and that little bolt you out blue lock tight on? Then try to pump it and see what happens? I'm so scared since its a new bike.
Hi. Please send me a link for that manual, which you are using for this manipulation :) Have same issue.
Maybe add in the video's annotations
i found... i have to buy one more book... i have bought motorbike for 15k$ and i have to buy book for 25$
I’m having some issues with mine beside the bearings. It feels extremely jerky, everytime i go on/off the throttle in street or rally mode it feels so jerky, like the chain lacked tension, even tho i checked the tension a million times and its perfectly lubed, i dont know that to do at this point, with 4500 miles, the bike doesn’t feel like it felt when i picked it up from the dealer. Do you have any idea what it could be? Also the chain makes quite a lot of noise, but as i said, i checked it a million times. Help :(
Does the shop manual come with the bike or did you order a more detailed one?
Thank you, but this should’ve been a three minute video😂
I have an 890r and need this done. I'm curious, why do you need to loosen the pinch bolts on the left and right side? Not being critical, just want to understand. Thank you!
Rusty ... the reason you need to loosen the pinch bolts on the left and right sides (of the upper triple clamp) is because the headset is attached to the forks via a PAIR of triple clamps. The lower triple clamp is not touched - so in order to reduce the (excess) clearance in the headset bearings, you must free the upper triple clamp from all points of friction. Removing the single bolt at the upper headset bearing is an obvious need as when you tighten the headset bearing with the 27 mm wrench, that same upper triple clamp must also move down the same amount on both the stem and the top of the forks. Hope this helps.
@@scottadams513 Hi Scott, after thinking about it a minute it made perfect sense. I did have to tighten the bearings a bit and the slop is now gone. I'm glad I saw your video because I did in fact loosen the upper pinch bolts. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
Rusty … you’re welcome, but I was not the one who authored nor posted the Twisted Throttle video. I just saw your question and had the understanding to share. Thanks to those guys for making such a great entry here!
is the front wheel on the ground or off the ground when doing these operations?
Off the ground. You need the wheel to be totally free of resistance.
Thank you very much man🫡, I was finally able to fix that annoying shift by myself 🤙