For the Thai Con substrate preference question… I feel like plants with fibrous, thick roots, like Monstera, Anthurium, Philodendron, spider plants, etc. do the best in LECA. They’re big enough to handle the excess aeration. Though of course they can like Pon, too. More finer-rooted species, with hair-like roots, seem to prefer the smaller particles of Pon, genera such as Tradescantia, Peperomia, African violets, and many more perennials, herbaceous plants or even edible vegetables. The large balls of LECA can feel too aerated and exposed for them… I’ve grown a Coleus and lavender in Pon, and also a Pelargonium (geranium), all rooted via the long method for far too many months before I finally put them into Pon. I’m not sure the same plants would thrive in LECA, as their roots are so delicate. So, larger roots = larger substrate (LECA)… that’s my principle, and I just sort of assume the majority of plants will like Pon, no matter the species. Although, that being said, everything is possible and has been done successfully, if you Google It! 😉
I clicked on this so quickly. I’m a pon user but I’m starting my leca journey to solve a few issues I have with growing in pon. I have been binge-watching videos on leca as a primary substrate and you and your channel are just priceless treasure troves of knowledge. I particularly appreciate how nuanced your information is, and really enjoy the energy you bring to your videos. I hope you never stop making them! Love from SE Asia ♥️ P.S. I finally started the rehab process for my 2 yo alocasia that suddenly bid me adieu. I planted its stem props in leca after watching your alocasia update from a few months ago and it was all the strength I needed to do it lol. Hope they pull through 🤞🏻
Thank you for answering my question Nora! Now that we're heading into autumn/winter I think I'll using the long method for my biggish Fiddle and leaving it in there for a while 😉🥰
Nora the videos that I have seen so far are very helpful and I learn every time, your knowledge and experience is amazing. This vide of Q & A is very interesting and you have cover the beginner questions. Thank you for your time ❤
Hi Nora! Ginger and Archie here, we actually binge watched your videos and on Easter 🐣, we made the transition for two plants from soil to LECA, we have a PUR water filter that clicks on the kitchen faucet, we checked the pH, 8, we mixed OUR secret sauce, GT Foliage Focus and Super Thrive and the pH with the PUR filter water changed to a 6, PERFECT! So far the solution is still at a good level and we are thrilled to keep an eye on things, thanks 😊 Nora! Our next project is to move a plant or two into pon, fingers crossed!!
I transitioned a large Fiddle Leaf Fig using the long method. It's a long story but I think it's one of my healthiest plants. I have two plus two bambinos and all do well. Some of the leaves are over 40cm . Best thing I ever did. To the lady that said her leaves were limp, on one of mine all the leaves fell off. Not one left. I put what I called the stick that was left in a window with morning sun and in a couple of months I had seven new leaves. So have faith, they do come back
Hi Nora. I’ve been growing orchids in leca for about 18 months and am now also using leca for most of my houseplants. With the orchids it was tough going, I had no idea what to do. I’ve learned so much from you and in this video still learned more. You’ve answered several of my questions and things are making so much more sense now. I’ve also started using Foliage Focus for my houseplants but find I still need a couple of drops of PH down to get it to an acceptable level. I’m aiming just below PH 6.0 and wondered if that’s too low. My home water supply is about 8.3-8.5 to start with and ends up at 7.6-7.8 after adding FF. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this video, it’s been extremely helpful.
Hello Nora, last days i am watching your videos from inside out as a mather of speaking. I want to start with leca as well. But as you said in one of your video's, the ph in the water and making it good for plants, scares me to bits as i am not that technical. I was the last one standing in the row when they explained that matter. But i decided to jump in. Also I searched myself stiff for the Growth technology. Now i bought one Growth technology Formulex 1L US, that's the only one I could find here in Europe. The Root zone and foliage i don't find. But i think the formulex will do the same i hope reading the instructions. Now i chopped all the roots of my anthurium as i had put it in water for a bit to long and there were no water roots. I watched your video and i chopped them all of. I have to see the video again because i can't remember were the water level must be ... I have a lot to learn but your videos are great, especially for someone who knows lesser than less. Keep making those videos they are just great and fabolous!!! Love from Belgium!! Take Care🤩
I transitioned my fiddle leaf fig to pon. It it’s about 3feet. It did look sad for about 2-3 weeks I lost 2 of the older leaves but now it has so much new growth.
Very good knowledgeable video. 👍🏾Video. My Thai grows in Aroid Mix and I fertilize all my plants with Foliage Pro. This is June in The Junegle, Virginia USA 🪴Happy Planting🌿
Hi Nora, I love your videos. I have a question, when you water the moss pole, the excess water that ends up in the catch pot are you just leaving it in there or tipping it out to the desired level or do you throw the lot out and put fresh liquid in the catch pot?
"The long method"! Finally I have a name for what I found works the best for myself with transitioning plants from soil to leca or pon. Through trial and error I've found if I take a plant from soil and plant it in fluval stratum for a couple of months (at the least!) before transitioning to leca or pon i have absolutely no issues. Typically no shock, no dropped leaves; it's my preferred method for transitioning and my goal is to have most of my plants in semi hydro. On a side note, my moderate sized thai con does very well in pon with a caveat, I don't top water. Bottom water only.
@@charlenemccray7500 Sure! When I want to transplant to semi hydro I wash off all the dirt as best as possible and plant in a fluval stratum/perlite mix (50/50 or so, I eyeball it). I leave the plant in the fluval for at least 6 weeks (usually longer) to bulk up the roots and then transition the plant to leca or pon. I have very little transplant stress this way, I've found 😁
Thank you for responding and explaining. I looked up fluval stratum. Is it fish food or a product used in an aquarium? I would really like to try your method since I usually use the long method when I transfer from soil to Leca. But when mine are in the water solution The Leca Queen suggested, they seem to rot. I would truly appreciate understanding your method. I'm in the U.S. Thank you.
@@charlenemccray7500 it's an aquarium substrate! It's made out of volcanic soil which has nutrients in it. I find playing with certain substrates will help find out what works best for you because my environment in Southwest Florida will be different from anyone growing elsewhere. The fluval stratum mixed with perlite I find works best for plants that don't like to go dry like alocasias.
My question is that have you tried other fertilizers? I’ve been using one that’s not what you are recommending but I heard that it’s best to switch it up at times( considering you are going it about the same way you did with the first one) example like pesticides
Hey, thanks for watching and the comment. I primarily use Foliage Focus and sometimes use Flower Focus. Switching pesticides makes sense but I am not sure what Switching nutrients will achieve as the plant is using the elements that it needs in whatever nutrient you give it. Phosphorus is Phosphorus however it comes packaged or indeed any other essential element or additive, it does not matter who the manufacturer is. So for this reason I would not switch nutrients just for the sake of a change. I think one might change nutrients maybe because of the NPK ratios or amounts of other elements. But I am happy to stand corrected so if you have any more information I would love to hear it and learn more. Thank you for the interesting comment.
With the first question about the pH, I feel like, if you already have houseplants that you water with tap water, they’re likely going to be fine in semi-hydro with the same water. And I live in Southern California, 20 minutes from Mexico, so essentially a coastal desert with high salts, high calcium and very hard water. So hard in fact that kidney stones are apparently a regional health issue here. But anyway… I just make sure to use nutrients that mention “hydroponics” specifically on the label. If it were something more dubious or organic being used, you’d probably want softer or neutral pH water to make sure those nutrients are fully available… but again, if you water your regular plants with tap, it’s likely fine with semi-hydro and you don’t need to test the pH too often. Also, I design planted aquariums with soil in them, live plants, etc., and I NEVER test the water in my tanks. You’d think that’s so important right. Lol. But I’m very aware of the plants, the nutrient absorption by the roots, the leaching of tannins into the water by driftwood, which in turn softens the pH, etc. I say all that to say… people should keep in mind that the presence of any organic matter in a moist or wet environment will gradually begin to breakdown, and thus acidify and soften the water… this includes simply a plant with its roots in semi-hydro. Even if washing off the soil when converting a plant, the plant ITSELF is organic “matter” and will soften the water and help the nutrients absorb. So in essence, knowing that, testing may be simply for peace of mind! 😃 I’m not saying every setup or every plant will drop to a 4.0 pH or something really soft… but it does go neutral to soft.
Hi, Have ordered my first sack of LECA. Would it not be best to pack the LECA and the plant in a suitable net before putting into its pot / vase? Would make for easier cleaning of the container without causing stress to the plant and roots?
I am lucky! I am a fresh water sting ray breeder. They produce a lot of waste but my massive filtration changes all waste to nitrates which plants love. I never have to use nutrient solution. The water in my sting ray tubs are always at PH of 6. I have used this water to all plants in soil and clay balls. They are all doing very well. I also have a Kangen Machine that makes drinking water from alkaline to PH 6 water and water depending on my choice. I have options. PH 6 water is considered beauty water that I can wash my face with. Bet you don’t know this one. lol!
My Calathea is difficult. Please give me advice Leca Queen. Put her in leca method. In leca with 1/4th or so from below under water. The plant started to show signs of overwatering. I watered it once from the top. I gave it new leca. Dry. And 1/4th from the bottom under water. Now my Calathea has fallen over completely and all the leaves are curled up. Too little water. Should I wait for the Calathea to make waterroots? Its going to loose all its leafs now.
I use rain water for my plants and my ph is at 6.5, but when I put my nutrients...FloraMicro, FloraGro, and FloraBloom, it changes to 5.0. Once I ph up, I can't get it to change from the 5.0. I'm afraid of over ph-ing up. Should I just use my rain water only since it's within the ph range?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
For the Thai Con substrate preference question… I feel like plants with fibrous, thick roots, like Monstera, Anthurium, Philodendron, spider plants, etc. do the best in LECA. They’re big enough to handle the excess aeration. Though of course they can like Pon, too. More finer-rooted species, with hair-like roots, seem to prefer the smaller particles of Pon, genera such as Tradescantia, Peperomia, African violets, and many more perennials, herbaceous plants or even edible vegetables. The large balls of LECA can feel too aerated and exposed for them… I’ve grown a Coleus and lavender in Pon, and also a Pelargonium (geranium), all rooted via the long method for far too many months before I finally put them into Pon. I’m not sure the same plants would thrive in LECA, as their roots are so delicate. So, larger roots = larger substrate (LECA)… that’s my principle, and I just sort of assume the majority of plants will like Pon, no matter the species.
Although, that being said, everything is possible and has been done successfully, if you Google It! 😉
Hey! You know your comments bring a smile to my face!!! Thank you for your awesome input.
I clicked on this so quickly. I’m a pon user but I’m starting my leca journey to solve a few issues I have with growing in pon. I have been binge-watching videos on leca as a primary substrate and you and your channel are just priceless treasure troves of knowledge. I particularly appreciate how nuanced your information is, and really enjoy the energy you bring to your videos. I hope you never stop making them! Love from SE Asia ♥️
P.S. I finally started the rehab process for my 2 yo alocasia that suddenly bid me adieu. I planted its stem props in leca after watching your alocasia update from a few months ago and it was all the strength I needed to do it lol. Hope they pull through 🤞🏻
You are too kind. All the best with your Alocasia!!
Thank you for answering my question Nora! Now that we're heading into autumn/winter I think I'll using the long method for my biggish Fiddle and leaving it in there for a while 😉🥰
Can't wait to hear all about it!
" Every story isn't meant for your bookshelf". Deep❤😮
Nora the videos that I have seen so far are very helpful and I learn every time, your knowledge and experience is amazing. This vide of Q & A is very interesting and you have cover the beginner questions. Thank you for your time ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Good info as always, Nora. Appreciate all your knowledge and experience!
Thank you Mary.
Thanks! Always perfect presentation and information. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! And I am so grateful for the super thanks!
Very informative and useful video,thank you🙏
My pleasure 😊
Hi Nora! Ginger and Archie here, we actually binge watched your videos and on Easter 🐣, we made the transition for two plants from soil to LECA, we have a PUR water filter that clicks on the kitchen faucet, we checked the pH, 8, we mixed OUR secret sauce, GT Foliage Focus and Super Thrive and the pH with the PUR filter water changed to a 6, PERFECT! So far the solution is still at a good level and we are thrilled to keep an eye on things, thanks 😊 Nora! Our next project is to move a plant or two into pon, fingers crossed!!
Interesting questions and answers 👍 I currently only grow in soil 😀🇨🇦
No matter how many vids I watch, I always learn something new from you! Thanks for Q & A Nora!
Your comment really warms my heart! Thank you for your constant support!
I transitioned a large Fiddle Leaf Fig using the long method. It's a long story but I think it's one of my healthiest plants. I have two plus two bambinos and all do well. Some of the leaves are over 40cm . Best thing I ever did. To the lady that said her leaves were limp, on one of mine all the leaves fell off. Not one left. I put what I called the stick that was left in a window with morning sun and in a couple of months I had seven new leaves. So have faith, they do come back
Now that is an awesome story. Well done 👏 great comeback!!
Thanks for your time and knowledge! ❤
Hi Nora. I’ve been growing orchids in leca for about 18 months and am now also using leca for most of my houseplants. With the orchids it was tough going, I had no idea what to do. I’ve learned so much from you and in this video still learned more. You’ve answered several of my questions and things are making so much more sense now. I’ve also started using Foliage Focus for my houseplants but find I still need a couple of drops of PH down to get it to an acceptable level. I’m aiming just below PH 6.0 and wondered if that’s too low. My home water supply is about 8.3-8.5 to start with and ends up at 7.6-7.8 after adding FF. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this video, it’s been extremely helpful.
Hello Nora, last days i am watching your videos from inside out as a mather of speaking. I want to start with leca as well. But as you said in one of your video's, the ph in the water and making it good for plants, scares me to bits as i am not that technical. I was the last one standing in the row when they explained that matter. But i decided to jump in. Also I searched myself stiff for the Growth technology. Now i bought one Growth technology Formulex 1L US, that's the only one I could find here in Europe. The Root zone and foliage i don't find. But i think the formulex will do the same i hope reading the instructions. Now i chopped all the roots of my anthurium as i had put it in water for a bit to long and there were no water roots. I watched your video and i chopped them all of. I have to see the video again because i can't remember were the water level must be ... I have a lot to learn but your videos are great, especially for someone who knows lesser than less. Keep making those videos they are just great and fabolous!!! Love from Belgium!! Take Care🤩
I transitioned my fiddle leaf fig to pon. It it’s about 3feet. It did look sad for about 2-3 weeks I lost 2 of the older leaves but now it has so much new growth.
Awesome!!
Very good knowledgeable video. 👍🏾Video. My Thai grows in Aroid Mix and I fertilize all my plants with Foliage Pro. This is June in The Junegle, Virginia USA
🪴Happy Planting🌿
Hey June! Hope you are well.
Thank you for this Q&A. All of your videos are very helpful ❤
You are so welcome!
excellent presentations...some was new to me.....some was just a reminder as to what I SHOULD be doing!! lol
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Dolly.
Hi Nora, I love your videos. I have a question, when you water the moss pole, the excess water that ends up in the catch pot are you just leaving it in there or tipping it out to the desired level or do you throw the lot out and put fresh liquid in the catch pot?
Something to think about is in the US they use so many chemicals I find I do get root rot often and I know it has something to do with the water
"The long method"! Finally I have a name for what I found works the best for myself with transitioning plants from soil to leca or pon. Through trial and error I've found if I take a plant from soil and plant it in fluval stratum for a couple of months (at the least!) before transitioning to leca or pon i have absolutely no issues. Typically no shock, no dropped leaves; it's my preferred method for transitioning and my goal is to have most of my plants in semi hydro.
On a side note, my moderate sized thai con does very well in pon with a caveat, I don't top water. Bottom water only.
Can you let me know what your "fluval stratum" process is?
@@charlenemccray7500 Sure! When I want to transplant to semi hydro I wash off all the dirt as best as possible and plant in a fluval stratum/perlite mix (50/50 or so, I eyeball it). I leave the plant in the fluval for at least 6 weeks (usually longer) to bulk up the roots and then transition the plant to leca or pon. I have very little transplant stress this way, I've found 😁
Thank you for responding and explaining. I looked up fluval stratum. Is it fish food or a product used in an aquarium? I would really like to try your method since I usually use the long method when I transfer from soil to Leca. But when mine are in the water solution The Leca Queen suggested, they seem to rot. I would truly appreciate understanding your method. I'm in the U.S. Thank you.
@@charlenemccray7500 it's an aquarium substrate! It's made out of volcanic soil which has nutrients in it. I find playing with certain substrates will help find out what works best for you because my environment in Southwest Florida will be different from anyone growing elsewhere.
The fluval stratum mixed with perlite I find works best for plants that don't like to go dry like alocasias.
Thank you! Do you mind sending the name of the product you use so that I'm getting the right one? Thank you again for responding. I'm in Maryland.
My question is that have you tried other fertilizers? I’ve been using one that’s not what you are recommending but I heard that it’s best to switch it up at times( considering you are going it about the same way you did with the first one) example like pesticides
Hey, thanks for watching and the comment. I primarily use Foliage Focus and sometimes use Flower Focus. Switching pesticides makes sense but I am not sure what Switching nutrients will achieve as the plant is using the elements that it needs in whatever nutrient you give it. Phosphorus is Phosphorus however it comes packaged or indeed any other essential element or additive, it does not matter who the manufacturer is. So for this reason I would not switch nutrients just for the sake of a change. I think one might change nutrients maybe because of the NPK ratios or amounts of other elements. But I am happy to stand corrected so if you have any more information I would love to hear it and learn more. Thank you for the interesting comment.
With the first question about the pH, I feel like, if you already have houseplants that you water with tap water, they’re likely going to be fine in semi-hydro with the same water. And I live in Southern California, 20 minutes from Mexico, so essentially a coastal desert with high salts, high calcium and very hard water. So hard in fact that kidney stones are apparently a regional health issue here. But anyway… I just make sure to use nutrients that mention “hydroponics” specifically on the label. If it were something more dubious or organic being used, you’d probably want softer or neutral pH water to make sure those nutrients are fully available… but again, if you water your regular plants with tap, it’s likely fine with semi-hydro and you don’t need to test the pH too often.
Also, I design planted aquariums with soil in them, live plants, etc., and I NEVER test the water in my tanks. You’d think that’s so important right. Lol. But I’m very aware of the plants, the nutrient absorption by the roots, the leaching of tannins into the water by driftwood, which in turn softens the pH, etc. I say all that to say… people should keep in mind that the presence of any organic matter in a moist or wet environment will gradually begin to breakdown, and thus acidify and soften the water… this includes simply a plant with its roots in semi-hydro. Even if washing off the soil when converting a plant, the plant ITSELF is organic “matter” and will soften the water and help the nutrients absorb. So in essence, knowing that, testing may be simply for peace of mind! 😃 I’m not saying every setup or every plant will drop to a 4.0 pH or something really soft… but it does go neutral to soft.
Sorry, that was a weird rant based off my own experiences. 😆
Hi,
Have ordered my first sack of LECA.
Would it not be best to pack the LECA and the plant in a suitable net before putting into its pot / vase?
Would make for easier cleaning of the container without causing stress to the plant and roots?
You could but I don't see how useful that would be.
I am lucky! I am a fresh water sting ray breeder. They produce a lot of waste but my massive filtration changes all waste to nitrates which plants love. I never have to use nutrient solution. The water in my sting ray tubs are always at PH of 6. I have used this water to all plants in soil and clay balls. They are all doing very well. I also have a Kangen Machine that makes drinking water from alkaline to PH 6 water and water depending on my choice. I have options. PH 6 water is considered beauty water that I can wash my face with. Bet you don’t know this one. lol!
Hello Nora! Where do you get your pots from?
Bunnings.. then she hits them with a wee soldering iron to make the holes
another wonderful vid! Ms Nora, what's the name of the "italian" leca you use?
Thank you. Laterlite
APOLOGIES - Dr Nora not Ms Nora! @@TheLecaQueen
@@gen_bee you are too funny!
My Calathea is difficult. Please give me advice Leca Queen.
Put her in leca method. In leca with 1/4th or so from below under water.
The plant started to show signs of overwatering. I watered it once from the top.
I gave it new leca. Dry. And 1/4th from the bottom under water.
Now my Calathea has fallen over completely and all the leaves are curled up. Too little water.
Should I wait for the Calathea to make waterroots? Its going to loose all its leafs now.
I use rain water for my plants and my ph is at 6.5, but when I put my nutrients...FloraMicro, FloraGro, and FloraBloom, it changes to 5.0. Once I ph up, I can't get it to change from the 5.0. I'm afraid of over ph-ing up. Should I just use my rain water only since it's within the ph range?
I only use water n leca. No other stuff. My monsters n pothos n snake plant are having leaves.
I urge you to give your plants nutrients. All living things need food to grow.