I found this video very useful in helping to diagnose my Zanussi Tumble Dryer ZTH485 fault. The dryer would run normally for several minutes, but then the motor would stop with an E50 fault (when running a programme) or an E51 or E54 fault when running in diagnostic mode. I checked the LNK304 output and also R76, but these appeared to be OK. I also connected a mains supply directly to the motor and it ran perfectly in either direction. I finally diagnosed the problem by carefully poking each component on the circuit board with a small plastic tooth pick, whilst the machine was in diagnostic mode. I used position 4 on the knob (stepped motor triac mode) as this doesn't generate an error message, but it was clear whether the motor was stepping correctly or not. This does need to be done with care, because there is mains voltage on several of the exposed components on the board. So ensure you don't touch anything with your fingers! I was able to trace the problem to a dry joint on R99 (47 ohm resistor) close to the central screw hole on the PCB. This resistor is connected to the gate on the motor triac and hence the interruption of this signal to the triac was causing the supply to the motor to also be interrupted, at which point the machine would generate the error message and stop. The dry joint had presumably been present since the PCB was manufactured, although the tightening of the adjacent holding screw may have broken the joint when the PCB was originally mounted in the machine. Anyway, hopefully this comment may prove useful to anyone with a similar E50/E51/E54 intermittent fault. The small blob of solder needed for the repair was certainly a lot cheaper than a new PCB!
Do you think switches can break down under heat so you may have an intermittent fault have a great Christmas and a happy New Year thank you very much for subscribing to the channel it really assists us
@@How-to-repair I'm 99% confident that the dry joint on R99 was my problem, as since I resoldered the joint, the dryer has been back in normal use with 10+ hours of usage with no further problems, whereas previously it would only run for a few minutes. Whilst trying to diagnose the fault, I did try bypassing the triac (switch) with a short length of wire and the motor ran normally, although continuously as any signal from the microprocessor to the triac gate was ignored. My conclusion from that was that the fault was either in the triac gate circuit, which contains R99, or with the triac itself. Had I not found the dry joint on R99, I would have tried replacing the triac (switch), as I agree that they can, like many components, breakdown when hot. It's a pity there isn't a circuit diagram for these boards easily available, as this would save a lot of time trying to diagnose a fault, although it's very satisfying when you manage to! Well done on your videos. It's great that they encourage people to attempt repairs on machines which otherwise would most likely endup as landfill.
Thanks to this video I just finished successfully the repair of an AEG T59880 drier. I recommend using a socket for the microchip. So next time when it fails repair will be even easier. Thanks Paul + Cheers, enjoy the beer! Regards Jan
thanks for the beer Iam Glad we could help you Please remember to subscribe to our channel ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/ Please remember to mark us to your favourites also I would be grateful if you would subscribe to our channels social media as this really helps my site and keeps us going. RUclips. ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Facebook. facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances
Hello and thank you very much. Same problem here. 47 Ohm resistor dead and also the LNK304GN. I replaced them and everything is working again. Saved me 183 euros. Again thank you very much.
Wonderful, thank you very much, clear images and useful explainations. I did not do the repair myself, but knowing that it was possible guided me to look for a repairer instead of replacing the entire dryer.
The resistor: WATCH OUT! This is a fusible resistor, NEVER replace with just a common resistor - it's a potential fire hazard when the next switch mode failure happens. The 47 Ohm resistor, is a 3 Watt resistor, and the ULW3 series, available from all major suppliers, should be a good replacement.
Thanks for this great guide and Tutorial. My Lavatherm 55840 is working again, for parts less than 5 EUR instead a new Dryer / new Board. Thanks a lot and thanks especially for the tip with cutting the legs off the old IC!!
Iam Glad we could help you Please remember to subscribe to our channel ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/ Please remember to mark us to your favourites also I would be grateful if you would subscribe to our channels social media as this really helps my site and keeps us going. RUclips. ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Facebook. facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances
Hi, My Arcadia main board (Arcadia Dryer main UPD) from at Hotpoint Aquarius Condenser Pump dryer model ftcl871gp has failed because all the main lights are flashing after a couple of mins of switching on and all other peripherals have been tested and ok. Are you able to repair this main board please? There are no bulging or ruptured capacitors.
A very useful video, thank-you. I have followed your instructions for replacing the LNK304GN and R76. However, checking other components, as you suggested, the black cylindrical SMD component with one white and one brown band bottom-side under C15 appears to be O/C on my board. Do you have any idea what this component is?
Thanks!! I got lucky, and my EDI 97170 has the same board. R76 is also gone.. (BTW, @2:10 you are desoldering wrong pin from R25, can you confirm?) I'm also looking to find a way to confirm LNK304GN is also gone...
Hi I got zanussi 37202w tumbale dryer , It just under warranty, my problem is eleccity coming to machine but no light , check all fuse and door lock , ac lead, all working fine power coming to pcb board but no light showing ,I replace the new timer switch still not working , i just wandering what could be the error, any advice please ,thanks
I replaced R76 resistor, but when i turn on dryer it blows up(the resistor). I am no electrician, so what does that one stands for? and it seems i get no resistance on J13, J8 resistors. Plus R76 gets blown up, when i only connect main harness to the blue switch, where you turn on the dryer. And after only connecting 1 pair of wire(to the blue housing), and trying to turn it on, the resistor blows up..
Hi again. Someone has posted here asking if there was a blown part as well or if it worked by just replacing the Lnk304GN, can't see the comment anymore maybe it's deleted. just wanted to add how you can verify if the Lnk Switch is gone...just measure the resistance from S (Source) to D (Drain) and if it's broken you should measure appr. 100 Ohms. You can measure it if the Lnk is still on the board...and of course the 47 Ohm resistor (R47) will most probably also be gone. Replace them both, please.
Hi, I have a Zanussi ZDC 37200W. The symptom with my machine is there is no apparent power. There is mains power to the timer control on the PCB. I have got the board out and R53, which is a metal film resistor has a split in the body and is open circuit. Can you point me to a copy of the circuit diagram for this machine or do you know what value that resistor should be? There are no markings visible on the resistor. Hope you can help and thanks in advance
Hello. I'm from Australia. I have an Electrolux edv505. Everything works except for heat. I believe it's the the pcb. Do you know if I short the labelled heater solder points it will turn on the heating elements?
i cant say as i do not have wiring diagram sorry Thank you For leaving a comment this is for you ruclips.net/user/shortse432SAb2g08 please remember to subscribe as that's is what keeps this channel going. Thanks 👍
I've done it - on an AEG Lavatherm Protex PLUS sensidry tumbledrier - used to be dead before. Now it powers up nicely but now I get an E91 error code. Only when I remove the communication cable (the one with thin black wires) between mainboard and sub-board (the one next to pump), the error code disappears and I can start up the main interface and even go into diagnostics mode. Of course, without sub-board connected, when I try to start the machine with START button, it displays 'Err' this time not E91. As soon as I connect the sub-board communication to the mainboard again, machine powers off and back on, with E91 code. Sometimes also does 3 consecutive beeps repeatedly. PLEASE HELP !!!
Hi I am trying to remove the plugs from the sockets on the board. Not the edge connector.s. The ones with spade connectors. I can't work out if there is a clip or whether they just pull out. I'm worried that I will break the pcb if I pull too hard. Please can you tell me how to unplug them. thanks
Sorry I forgot. Also you could use pliers to open up the connectors, but you may have to replace it after. @steveapt1 please remember to subscribe to our channel as that really helps us ruclips.net/user/shortse432SAb2g08 Thanks, Paul 👍
where did you get the information about what resistance the resistors should be reading? as this would help to no end as you could test each one i know most have either colour coding or the resistance and tolerance values writtin on them but some dont.
Thanks for the great video...I have exactly the same fault and have ordered a resistor and link switch. By the way, thanks also for the tip of using a through-hole component to replace the LNK304 if you don't have a heat gun... :-)
I’m trying to find a replacement transformer for my board: Hartu 29/10 717232-51, which I believe is no longer available. Any suggestions of a direct replacement for that?
Currently, our supplier does not have this item in their stock so I suggest you to check other platforms. You can try searching on platforms like Facebook, Gumtree, or eBay for an equivalent one. Remember, you should use your full model number in online searches to get spare parts otherwise you may not be able to get the correct element.
@@How-to-repair I’ve tried, and cannot find a spec for this transformer. If you can shed even a little light that saves me buying a new board, I’ll love you forever!
Hi I want to replace my cement mixer motor with a white units motor. What machine do you recommend. I have a 8 pin Zanussi electrolux motor but no wiring connections for it. I can use this for another project if I had the required connections for it. Please advise.
Is your motor 3-phase with 8-terminal conn box? Check the resistance values between pins to find the connections: www.4mcculloch.co.uk/images/mediator/553/599706597.pdf
Hi sir very cool video.. I got a bosch that will turn on.. but the Time Display will not show.. So I can't start it how long it need to wash what can this be on the print? it is a Bosch Logixx 8 Sensitive from 2006/2007 Tnx
door lock or pcb i can help on monday facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances/ glad to help please contact us through facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances/ Can you do us a favour and please share this video on your timeline Facebook twitter etc . This will help other people who can’t get engineers out to help them. ruclips.net/video/rFyGAHVFUW8/видео.html&t facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances/ Stay safe
Iam Glad we could help you Please remember to subscribe to our channel ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/ Please remember to mark us to your favourites also I would be grateful if you would subscribe to our channels social media as this really helps my site and keeps us going. RUclips. ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Facebook. facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances
Yes the R76 and the Lnk304GN both exchanged and the machine went on R76 blew and I don't know if the Lnk304gn still is alive. The machine is a tumble dryer Elektrolux EDC67550W . How to repair?
the components are weak to protect the transformer so somebody told me in the shop. The brushes are quite new. The machine is from 2011. Electrolux told me to buy a hole new printboard.
+Sharon Vendrov there is no simple way to test unless you have the right equipment sorry. I am glad I could help you with this problem. Please remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/ Please remember to mark us to your favourites also I would be grateful if you would subscribe to our channels social media as this really helps my site and keeps us going. RUclips. ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Facebook. facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances
@@How-to-repair Measure resistance from S to D on the LNK304 (from the pin by itself with extra spacing, and the opposite corner). Mine measured 9.9 ohms, which should be basically open circuit across the internal FET.
Hello. Thanks for great guides. I have a AEG Electrolux Mod: TN55460, Type: P502664, Prod nr. 916 096 379 01 I was wondering what to look for, if I get error code E32? I first got error code E54. Then I changed the capacitor, but got new error code E32. All red lights, and it will not even respond properly. I tried also to clear the error code, but I guess it was after that it stopped and I get error codes as as eplained. Now I am looking at the circuid board, but cannot find any cracks or dry joints. Tested some diods with mulitmeter, but they looking good. Did not replace the LNK304GN 54526E yet. Could it be broken? I tested also the temperature sensors, and they all look good. The electric motor seems to work also, as its turning. I also have to add that the water pump and the belt are OK. Any good ideas what part is broken or needs to be replaces? Thanks
Hey Alexander,Could you tell me if you simply replaced LNK304 and it worked or there was a blown part as well? Asking this because I don't have any visible signs and every resistor shows a right resistance etc. Thanks
Iam Glad we could help you Please remember to subscribe to our channel ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/ Please remember to mark us to your favourites also I would be grateful if you would subscribe to our channels social media as this really helps my site and keeps us going. RUclips. ruclips.net/user/Apart4u Facebook. facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances
![How to spot a fault in a circuit, like a pro : hands on electronics [1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ye9dguKy_Cs/mqdefault.jpg)
I found this video very useful in helping to diagnose my Zanussi Tumble Dryer ZTH485 fault. The dryer would run normally for several minutes, but then the motor would stop with an E50 fault (when running a programme) or an E51 or E54 fault when running in diagnostic mode. I checked the LNK304 output and also R76, but these appeared to be OK. I also connected a mains supply directly to the motor and it ran perfectly in either direction.
I finally diagnosed the problem by carefully poking each component on the circuit board with a small plastic tooth pick, whilst the machine was in diagnostic mode. I used position 4 on the knob (stepped motor triac mode) as this doesn't generate an error message, but it was clear whether the motor was stepping correctly or not. This does need to be done with care, because there is mains voltage on several of the exposed components on the board. So ensure you don't touch anything with your fingers! I was able to trace the problem to a dry joint on R99 (47 ohm resistor) close to the central screw hole on the PCB. This resistor is connected to the gate on the motor triac and hence the interruption of this signal to the triac was causing the supply to the motor to also be interrupted, at which point the machine would generate the error message and stop. The dry joint had presumably been present since the PCB was manufactured, although the tightening of the adjacent holding screw may have broken the joint when the PCB was originally mounted in the machine.
Anyway, hopefully this comment may prove useful to anyone with a similar E50/E51/E54 intermittent fault. The small blob of solder needed for the repair was certainly a lot cheaper than a new PCB!
Do you think switches can break down under heat so you may have an intermittent fault have a great Christmas and a happy New Year thank you very much for subscribing to the channel it really assists us
@@How-to-repair I'm 99% confident that the dry joint on R99 was my problem, as since I resoldered the joint, the dryer has been back in normal use with 10+ hours of usage with no further problems, whereas previously it would only run for a few minutes. Whilst trying to diagnose the fault, I did try bypassing the triac (switch) with a short length of wire and the motor ran normally, although continuously as any signal from the microprocessor to the triac gate was ignored. My conclusion from that was that the fault was either in the triac gate circuit, which contains R99, or with the triac itself. Had I not found the dry joint on R99, I would have tried replacing the triac (switch), as I agree that they can, like many components, breakdown when hot. It's a pity there isn't a circuit diagram for these boards easily available, as this would save a lot of time trying to diagnose a fault, although it's very satisfying when you manage to!
Well done on your videos. It's great that they encourage people to attempt repairs on machines which otherwise would most likely endup as landfill.
thank you for your solution, I managed to fix this board, the R99 resistor was causing motor start problems. thanks thanks :)
Thanks to this video I just finished successfully the repair of an AEG T59880 drier.
I recommend using a socket for the microchip. So next time when it fails repair will be even easier. Thanks Paul + Cheers, enjoy the beer! Regards Jan
thanks for the beer
Iam Glad we could help you
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Hello and thank you very much. Same problem here. 47 Ohm resistor dead and also the LNK304GN. I replaced them and everything is working again. Saved me 183 euros. Again thank you very much.
Wonderful, thank you very much, clear images and useful explainations. I did not do the repair myself, but knowing that it was possible guided me to look for a repairer instead of replacing the entire dryer.
Great video! Got the same fault on my AEG dishwasher. Rerplaced the linkswitch and resistor and now its running again.
The resistor: WATCH OUT! This is a fusible resistor, NEVER replace with just a common resistor - it's a potential fire hazard when the next switch mode failure happens.
The 47 Ohm resistor, is a 3 Watt resistor, and the ULW3 series, available from all major suppliers, should be a good replacement.
And for what part pf the appliance is that resistor?
@@adrianm.1240 Resistor limits inrush current into the smoothing capacitor and acts as a fuse
Thanks for this great guide and Tutorial. My Lavatherm 55840 is working again, for parts less than 5 EUR instead a new Dryer / new Board.
Thanks a lot and thanks especially for the tip with cutting the legs off the old IC!!
Iam Glad we could help you
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@@How-to-repair love your videos. I have a hotpoint tdwsf83bep and it won't power on at all
Thanks for great exact guide. Changing burnt resistor and link switch revive dead Electrolux dryer.
Hi, My Arcadia main board (Arcadia Dryer main UPD) from at Hotpoint Aquarius Condenser Pump dryer model ftcl871gp has failed because all the main lights are flashing after a couple of mins of switching on and all other peripherals have been tested and ok. Are you able to repair this main board please? There are no bulging or ruptured capacitors.
A very useful video, thank-you. I have followed your instructions for replacing the LNK304GN and R76. However, checking other components, as you suggested, the black cylindrical SMD component with one white and one brown band bottom-side under C15 appears to be O/C on my board. Do you have any idea what this component is?
Thanks!! I got lucky, and my EDI 97170 has the same board. R76 is also gone.. (BTW, @2:10 you are desoldering wrong pin from R25, can you confirm?) I'm also looking to find a way to confirm LNK304GN is also gone...
Thnx for the exelent how to. Got mine fixed. Wife happy, me too. Cost me 4 Euro and 10 cent to repair got the components from a shop.
How come you call that integrated circuit a linkswitch? Its normally referred to as a switchmode or flyback controller...
Good work.
You can use FLUX on spray to make your soldering work faster specially when you solder IC pins.
Hi I got zanussi 37202w tumbale dryer , It just under warranty, my problem is eleccity coming to machine but no light , check all fuse and door lock , ac lead, all working fine power coming to pcb board but no light showing ,I replace the new timer switch still not working , i just wandering what could be the error, any advice please ,thanks
I replaced R76 resistor, but when i turn on dryer it blows up(the resistor). I am no electrician, so what does that one stands for? and it seems i get no resistance on J13, J8 resistors. Plus R76 gets blown up, when i only connect main harness to the blue switch, where you turn on the dryer. And after only connecting 1 pair of wire(to the blue housing), and trying to turn it on, the resistor blows up..
Hi again. Someone has posted here asking if there was a blown part as well or if it worked by just replacing the Lnk304GN, can't see the comment anymore maybe it's deleted. just wanted to add how you can verify if the Lnk Switch is gone...just measure the resistance from S (Source) to D (Drain) and if it's broken you should measure appr. 100 Ohms. You can measure it if the Lnk is still on the board...and of course the 47 Ohm resistor (R47) will most probably also be gone. Replace them both, please.
Hi Alexander, what should be the correct resistance between S -> D ? I'm measuring 17.3 ohms (R76 resistor is broken - not measuring 47ohms). Thanks
Hi, I have a Zanussi ZDC 37200W. The symptom with my machine is there is no apparent power. There is mains power to the timer control on the PCB. I have got the board out and R53, which is a metal film resistor has a split in the body and is open circuit. Can you point me to a copy of the circuit diagram for this machine or do you know what value that resistor should be? There are no markings visible on the resistor.
Hope you can help and thanks in advance
Hello. I'm from Australia. I have an Electrolux edv505. Everything works except for heat. I believe it's the the pcb. Do you know if I short the labelled heater solder points it will turn on the heating elements?
i cant say as i do not have wiring diagram sorry Thank you For leaving a comment this is for you ruclips.net/user/shortse432SAb2g08 please remember to subscribe as that's is what keeps this channel going. Thanks 👍
There is no doubt about it paul you are the top man
I've done it - on an AEG Lavatherm Protex PLUS sensidry tumbledrier - used to be dead before. Now it powers up nicely but now I get an E91 error code. Only when I remove the communication cable (the one with thin black wires) between mainboard and sub-board (the one next to pump), the error code disappears and I can start up the main interface and even go into diagnostics mode. Of course, without sub-board connected, when I try to start the machine with START button, it displays 'Err' this time not E91. As soon as I connect the sub-board communication to the mainboard again, machine powers off and back on, with E91 code. Sometimes also does 3 consecutive beeps repeatedly. PLEASE HELP !!!
Hi I am trying to remove the plugs from the sockets on the board. Not the edge connector.s. The ones with spade connectors. I can't work out if there is a clip or whether they just pull out. I'm worried that I will break the pcb if I pull too hard. Please can you tell me how to unplug them. thanks
If you look very closely at the speed, connectors some have a locking tap in the middle, just be very careful not to damage the board
Sorry I forgot. Also you could use pliers to open up the connectors, but you may have to replace it after. @steveapt1 please remember to subscribe to our channel as that really helps us ruclips.net/user/shortse432SAb2g08 Thanks, Paul 👍
Replaced the LNK304 and 47ohm resistor on a friends Electrolux dryer (only 6 years old). The Machine works again :)
where did you get the information about what resistance the resistors should be reading? as this would help to no end as you could test each one i know most have either colour coding or the resistance and tolerance values writtin on them but some dont.
Hi, can you tell me which part to replace on a dead Zanussi washer/dryer similar board cheers.
in aeg electrolux if all led blinking and the voltage of 7 volts fall to 6.2 wha can cause this problem ?
Thanks for the great video...I have exactly the same fault and have ordered a resistor and link switch. By the way, thanks also for the tip of using a through-hole component to replace the LNK304 if you don't have a heat gun... :-)
I’m trying to find a replacement transformer for my board: Hartu 29/10 717232-51, which I believe is no longer available. Any suggestions of a direct replacement for that?
Currently, our supplier does not have this item in their stock so I suggest you to check other platforms. You can try searching on platforms like Facebook, Gumtree, or eBay for an equivalent one. Remember, you should use your full model number in online searches to get spare parts otherwise you may not be able to get the correct element.
@@How-to-repair I’ve tried, and cannot find a spec for this transformer. If you can shed even a little light that saves me buying a new board, I’ll love you forever!
Hi I want to replace my cement mixer motor with a white units motor. What machine do you recommend. I have a 8 pin Zanussi electrolux motor but no wiring connections for it. I can use this for another project if I had the required connections for it. Please advise.
Is your motor 3-phase with 8-terminal conn box? Check the resistance values between pins to find the connections: www.4mcculloch.co.uk/images/mediator/553/599706597.pdf
Hello, I have a Zanussi Tumble 7126, with error E32. The Tumble stop working after a few minutes. What is the Problem?
Hi sir very cool video.. I got a bosch that will turn on.. but the Time Display will not show.. So I can't start it how long it need to wash what can this be on the print? it is a Bosch Logixx 8 Sensitive from 2006/2007 Tnx
door lock or pcb i can help on monday facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances/
glad to help please contact us through facebook.com/how.to.repair.appliances/
Can you do us a favour and please share this video on your timeline Facebook twitter etc .
This will help other people who can’t get engineers out to help them.
ruclips.net/video/rFyGAHVFUW8/видео.html&t
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Stay safe
@@How-to-repair Thank you sir.. door was closed what is the PCB? Will do.
@@How-to-repair you Mean the Mode Controller I found the Data Sheet. ICE 2A165
Thank you very much! Exactly the same problem, same solution with my Electrolux EDC 77550W.
Iam Glad we could help you
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Thank you!!! My lavatherm work again
Yes the R76 and the Lnk304GN both exchanged and the machine went on R76 blew and I don't know if the Lnk304gn still is alive. The machine is a tumble dryer Elektrolux EDC67550W . How to repair?
He doesn't get on at all.
the components are weak to protect the transformer so somebody told me in the shop. The brushes are quite new. The machine is from 2011. Electrolux told me to buy a hole new printboard.
hello
the resistor is 47 Ohms or 47000 Ohms? thank you
47 Ohm
ive got no screen on a hoover washer, could the psu be the problem ? what does the link switch do ?
The link switch is actualy part of the PSU for the low voltage components. Replacing the LNK304 and 47ohm resistor wil likely fix your problem.
how many volt is after link switch???
Thank you very much for posting this, very, very helpfull.
Skillful guy.
Can you please explain how to test the LNK304 component?
+Sharon Vendrov there is no simple way to test unless you have the right equipment sorry. I am glad I could help you with this problem.
Please remember to Shop with www.how-to-repair.com and it would help us by posting the video or website on your timeline. This helps us a lot and if we really helped you can always buy us a beer how-to-repair.com/help/buy-paul-a-beer/
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@@How-to-repair Measure resistance from S to D on the LNK304 (from the pin by itself with extra spacing, and the opposite corner). Mine measured 9.9 ohms, which should be basically open circuit across the internal FET.
The dryer went on en gone out again even though the resistor and the lnk switch was replaced.
Hello. Thanks for great guides.
I have a AEG Electrolux Mod: TN55460, Type: P502664, Prod nr. 916 096 379 01
I was wondering what to look for, if I get error code E32?
I first got error code E54. Then I changed the capacitor, but got new error code E32. All red lights, and it will not even respond properly. I tried also to clear the error code, but I guess it was after that it stopped and I get error codes as as eplained.
Now I am looking at the circuid board, but cannot find any cracks or dry joints. Tested some diods with mulitmeter, but they looking good.
Did not replace the LNK304GN 54526E yet. Could it be broken?
I tested also the temperature sensors, and they all look good.
The electric motor seems to work also, as its turning.
I also have to add that the water pump and the belt are OK.
Any good ideas what part is broken or needs to be replaces?
Thanks
Did you exchange the LNK304GN finally? This must definitely be the reason...worked with mine! (T55840)
I fixed it now a few months ago, by replacing the whole circuid board :-)
Hey Alexander,Could you tell me if you simply replaced LNK304 and it worked or there was a blown part as well? Asking this because I don't have any visible signs and every resistor shows a right resistance etc. Thanks
I`m suprised that pcb was lighting up at that resistor and link switch gone .
Using a digital heat gun or hot air station ic's become much easier to desolder.
My dryer not hitting on mador bord
the resistor is only 47ohm not 4700 ohm.. :D
hi thanks its realy help this video
Iam Glad we could help you
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this was useful.thanks
thank you 👍
Great video. Thanks!
Hi sir
Nice
Samsung ruhaszáritó forog
Szia! Hasonló problémám van, kicserélted a LNK-t és az ellenállást és működött?Az ellenállás 47 ohmos, de hány W-ost tettél bele?