Can't express how grateful I am for this. Just saved me £200 for a new dryer and the added bonus was it finally got me to buy a decent soldering station! Again, many thanks.
@@robertsampson6091 Resistor can go in either way there is no polarity for a resistor. Current flows the same both ways. Think of it as a not very good wire that does not pass electricity very well.
Saved me at least £150 on a Zanussi tumble dryer board. The same common fault occured with dry solder joints on the black Omron relay. This was resoldered with lead solder and is working well. The relay is quite long and not glued to the PCB, with all the heat cycles it goes through I'm not surprised that the solder joints have fatigued and cracked, it's a poor design, common to AEG, Electrolux and Zanussi that use the same parts. Getting the main circuit board out was more difficult though, had to take the top lid off, then the side panel, before I could remove the circuit board and cover.
Thanks for that...great video...my tumble dryer failed...same problem...blown LNK304 and resistor. By the way, it's a 47r 3w resistor but your way of working that out was cool :-)
@@jdviljoen4770 Yes...its 47 ohm. You need to be very careful removing the little chip. Also..it might be worth your while checking your mains voltage. A possible cause of these blowing is transient spikes where the mains may surge up to very high voltages for a split second (ie 1000volts or higher) so installing a surge protection device might be an option.
@@optic1972 There's no problem putting in a resistor that's rated a higher wattage than the original as long as the resitance is the same. I hope you got your machine back in working order.
Thank you for this fascinating video. In my case however (and my PCB looks exactly like yours) the mains comes in via connector J5. The connector that goes into the dial switch comes from the door safety switch and seems to connect the Live only, not the neutral. Does this make sense?
Yes, I think the door switches are usually single pole. I.e. they switch only the live wire. Investigate the switch. If is dual pole then it could be the door switch.
Hi Brian, What value is the power resistor on your board? Can you read the numbers? As explained you need a fusible resistor. Tell me the value and I will have a look. I have the chips in stock. No problem sending you one.
@@razenby Hi magic smoke thank you for your swift reply ,the the number on the Resistor appears to be 47R 10% i will send a few pics if i can ,thank you so much,I am just ordering a soldering iron to have a go at my first repair😀🔨🪚🪛🧫 can tell me what i owe for both please, thanks again , Brian.
@@razenby Hi magic smoke, thanks for your swift reply, here is the pics of the chip and resistor as best I can get them, it appears to be 47r 10% board number r53. Thanks for your help and guidance.
This is a generic part. Any similar sized 275VAC working varistor of a similar diameter will do the job. They are usually denoted by the characters 271K in the manufacturer's part reference. For example a an EPCOS B72214S0271K101 Good luck. Please remember to like and subscribe. Thanks.
Hi, excellent video and useful explanations as to which component do what. I’m a washing machine engineer and a similar thing happens on Bosch dryers, where the switch mode and resistor blow. I’ve had lots of success replacing the components on Zanussi/Aeg machines, but on Bosch/Siemens, the machine works but only tends to do one or two cycles of drying before the components blow again. What could be causing this? I’ve heard maybe failing capacitors cause it but I’m not sure. Have you ever had experience with a Bosch board? Thanks in advance
Thanks. The power supplies are all pretty similar. Change the buck diode and the HV and LV reservoir capacitors. Also check the metal oxide VDR looks OK. The chip should be protect itself against overload on the output side so that wont blow it up. It is a pretty simple circuit with few components. Also depending on the machine design there is a transient filter at the mains inlet on most machines, usually located in the mains route at the casing where the cable enters. Depending on the impedance of your mains supply, if the filter has gone O/C than you can get nasty transients hitting the controller when the motor turns on and off . Makes sure the mains wall socked and plug are OK and not arcing. This can cause controller reliability issues. Don't plug power tools or vacuum cleaners in to adjacent wall sockets.
Great videos and now subscribed! Do you happen to know the LNK device in a Zanussi ZWG1120M, as it's blown it's top! Thinking maybe a 305NP? TIA Andrew
Awesome video. Thanks. I had the same blown resistor and chip, replaced both but think I messed something up or something else is also fried. Had a closer look and the very small component at s1 just under the chip looked slightly out of position maybe due to the heat gun heartening it.Went to move it back and managed to drop and lose it. Would you know what it is and where I could get one or do u offer a repair service as I’m not 100% sure it was out of place to begin with?
Hi Magic Smoke. Brilliant video thanks. I am hoping you have solved my problem with my dryer but I have a related question about the cables connected to the PCB. How can I send you the details to see if you can help? Thanks, Nick
Hello.. I have this issue.. but do you know what value from the new resistor is?... You make a new one .. I hope you can give me the awnser ... Thanks.
Hi, I have the same drier, ZDC37200W, when I turn the timer knob it should activate the start button, it should light up and when pressed the dryer should start. However the start button does not always light up, therefore when pressed will not start the dryer. This is intermittent, I have to move the timer knob slowly back and forward and eventually the start button will light up. Any idea on what the fault is caused by?
If you know the safety precautions then check that the high voltage making it as far as the chip. Check the reservoir capacitor has about 350V volts on it. Sometimes the mains switches fail. Also check the diodes around the LNK chip. It could be that the micro on the low voltage side is blown but then the board powers up and some LEDs are stuck on.
Hi, thank you for the video and explanation. You mentioned that you sold the lnk304gn and the 47 ohm 3 watt resistor on ebay. Could you please provide me with the ebay link, thanks
@@razenby Yes , I managed to find the bits and with the help of your video fixed the tumble dryer. Would be good for you to post the Link to your eBay store, thank you
Hi I am trying to remove the plugs from the square/rectangular sockets . The ones with spade connectors. I can't work out if there is a clip or whether they just pull out. I'm worried that I will break the pcb if I pull too hard. Please can you tell me how to unplug them. thanks
They pull out. They can be very stiff. A pair of long nose pliers (grips) can be used to rock the connector from side to side and ease it out. Don't pull on the wires. Thanks for watching. Subscribe of you can.
Hi. I have this model too and have changed the heating element and checked all other components which are all saying are ok but the heater is only running one of two elements. I was hoping you might show a reason here. Is there anything on the circuit board which would account for this failure? Thanks.
Trace the wiring back to see if each heater element is run for a separate relay. If so it could be a stuck /failed relay. Also inspect the solder joints around the relays and have a closer look at the spade crimps for signs of arcing or burning. If you suspect the relay then swap them over to see if the fault transfers to the working element. Relays are cheap and freely available,
@@razenby Thanks for your quick reply. The only wire separately connected to the bottom heater element is a black one and goes to the middle terminal of the 3 pin connection on the pcb. Resistance throughout the wiring shows up ok. All connections look ok. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm sorry, I'm a complete novice at this sort of thing to be honest. The connection seems to be going to relay 1 (RL1)The heater element is brand new and I'm sure its going to be something tiny and stupid thats stopping this machine from heating fully. I've had to buy a new tumble dryer meantime but it seems a shame to scrap it. Overall its in great condition.
If you want to post the controller I will take a look at it and make a video - funded by video channel. You just need to pay postage and a couple of quid for the part.
Ive had a friends dryer board given to me as the machine was also dead, its identical to the board as you have and made the repair to the board by replacing the LNK304GN and the 47 ohm resistor. The dryer now powers up and runs but after 25 seconds ends the cycle. This can be repeated on any setting apart from the cooling setting where it works faultless so clearly something on the heating circuit. Ive tested the rear stats and the heater and also the front NTC all appear to be fine. Ive also checked over the board and have tested the basics and all seem ok, any thoughts? im actually thinking its the heater relay but question why this would suddenly go? Would you have any ideas?
Clearly it is related to the heating element. You are right to question why would the relay fail at the same time. It is a common trap to assume multiple faults and end up investigating a dead end. However, a transient in the mains could have taken out the LNK chip. The transient could have been caused by a a short in the heating element especially if you don't have an RCD in your house. (Many older houses do not). If the heating element is not open circuit (measure resistance) then are you sure that all the plugs are correctly connected ? Double check the ones for the heating element itself and the temperature sensor. The spade connectors on the board can have cracked solder joints if they have been unplugged, Inspect the board for any solder whiskers that may have been left on it during the repair.
I have an issue with my AEG Lavatherm Protex Plus dryer. Sometimes it stops within 10-15 minutes and everytime I turn it on, I have to set the time. I have a lnk586gg but could be sonething else like a diode e.g.? Thank you from germany
It sounds like it may well be a power problem. If you have had it for a while then change the chip anyway. they have a finite life and the new chips are better than the old. Check for bad connections and signs of sparking. Also don't forget the mains lead and plug - a power problem anywhere in the chain will cause this. Also change the main DC reservoir capacitor.
Thank you for this video. I am having an issue with my Zanussi dryer ZTH 485 which does not show any sign of life. I have removed the board from the dryer and was checking for some continuity. Most were showing continuity, but I am not sure where to look as I this is the first time to attempt something like this. Any help?
See the video. the circuit is likely to be the same and the LNK chip is the usual cause of a dead controller. Be careful as there are high voltages when connected to the power.
@@razenby A bit stupid of me as I got electrocuted. :) The LNK chip number should be the same as the one on the board or any number can do? Any idea where I can order one online?
I found your video interesting but a bit beyond my GCSE physics from many years ago! We have a Zanussi ZDC47100W which died today after being run with the water tank overflowing. I was hoping it was just a thermal fuse replacement but can't seem to find it ( if it's a PCB problem I'd have to send that away to get the replacement component soldered on). I've had the dryer open to change the belt last year and had a quick look inside tonight. Does anyone know where the thermal fuse is? Many thanks.
Just check the AC power to the controller is present. If you get no beeps or lights then the power supply chip is likely to have blown. Take out the controller and inspect it carefully. If water or condensation forms on the high voltage areas of the controller then the offline PWM controller chip blows the instant you turn on the power.
Hi I've got zanussi tumble dryer there's no power to it its zdc37200w and Will LNK304GN SOP7 Integrated Circuit from Power Integrations fit mine? Thanks for your help
Has anyone found the circuit diagram? I’m in a pickle and would love to modify the pcb and add a 5v and 12v smps’ to get mine going asap. Otherwise I’ll wire the mains side up so as soon as the mains power is turned on, it runs.
I have never seen a schematic You can just trace the circuit and use the PWM off-line chip datasheet. It is easier to simply repair the switching power supply
I got an Zanussi Lindo300 washer machine with a controller which got touch buttons. The controller programmer is messed up. For example if i try to touch the buttons, it take a while to response as the controller goes here and there non stop. The non stop stops when ever i keep my finger on one of the buttons and goes crazy again when ever my finger goes of from it. There is no error code i get. Some times it works normally but after a while it will do the same thing. Any advice what it could be? Thank u!
If the controller is clean with no signs or water ingress or corrosion then the issue is most likely power related so change C2, C3, C4. This is the most likely scenario. If you want to send it I'll test it for you and make a video.
Exceptionally well produced and also exceptionally well explained this comes from someone who fixes this type of dryer on a daily basis excellent work
Thank for the comment.
Can't express how grateful I am for this. Just saved me £200 for a new dryer and the added bonus was it finally got me to buy a decent soldering station! Again, many thanks.
Great to hear!
Just ordered the same components as my dryer has done exactly the same thing, my resistor was burnt also. Thanks for the info 👍👍
Thanks. Good luck with the repair.
@@razenby what way do the resistor go? Going from the end of the board I have yellow purple black and tolerance band gold
Robert, would you please tell me where you purchased the components from and if you have the links handy, thank you.
@@robertsampson6091 Resistor can go in either way there is no polarity for a resistor. Current flows the same both ways. Think of it as a not very good wire that does not pass electricity very well.
Saved me at least £150 on a Zanussi tumble dryer board. The same common fault occured with dry solder joints on the black Omron relay. This was resoldered with lead solder and is working well. The relay is quite long and not glued to the PCB, with all the heat cycles it goes through I'm not surprised that the solder joints have fatigued and cracked, it's a poor design, common to AEG, Electrolux and Zanussi that use the same parts.
Getting the main circuit board out was more difficult though, had to take the top lid off, then the side panel, before I could remove the circuit board and cover.
Good job.. That's what we want!
Thanks for that...great video...my tumble dryer failed...same problem...blown LNK304 and resistor. By the way, it's a 47r 3w resistor but your way of working that out was cool :-)
No problem. The LNK Series of chips has caused a lot of pain.. just thin for a moment of how much equipment as been thrown out because of it..
Thank you, brilliant. Exaisle, is that 47 Ohm? Not so sure if that's what you mean... got the same issue!
@@jdviljoen4770 Yes...its 47 ohm. You need to be very careful removing the little chip. Also..it might be worth your while checking your mains voltage. A possible cause of these blowing is transient spikes where the mains may surge up to very high voltages for a split second (ie 1000volts or higher) so installing a surge protection device might be an option.
Yes indeed, just removed mine and it's a 47 ohm but think it's a 2w and not a 3w... although I've put a 3w in and it still sits on the board.
@@optic1972 There's no problem putting in a resistor that's rated a higher wattage than the original as long as the resitance is the same. I hope you got your machine back in working order.
Thank you for this fascinating video. In my case however (and my PCB looks exactly like yours) the mains comes in via connector J5. The connector that goes into the dial switch comes from the door safety switch and seems to connect the Live only, not the neutral. Does this make sense?
Yes, I think the door switches are usually single pole. I.e. they switch only the live wire. Investigate the switch. If is dual pole then it could be the door switch.
Thank you for the great tips all around.
No prolem.. RIGHTTOREPAIR!
Hi magic smoke,I watched the video, can you advise please where I can purchase both components to do the repair, thank you , Brian.
Hi Brian, What value is the power resistor on your board? Can you read the numbers? As explained you need a fusible resistor. Tell me the value and I will have a look. I have the chips in stock. No problem sending you one.
@@razenby Hi magic smoke thank you for your swift reply ,the the number on the Resistor appears to be 47R 10% i will send a few pics if i can ,thank you so much,I am just ordering a soldering iron to have a go at my first repair😀🔨🪚🪛🧫 can tell me what i owe for both please, thanks again ,
Brian.
@@razenby Hi magic smoke, thanks for your swift reply, here is the pics of the chip and resistor as best I can get them, it appears to be 47r 10% board number r53. Thanks for your help and guidance.
@@razenby hi magic smoke, the number on the resistor is 47R, thanks for your help,
Brian
Hi magic smoke, have you received my messages,
Thank you .
Brian
Magic Smoke, can you please tell me the value of the varistor VDR2? would be much grateful, in my case they are burned
This is a generic part. Any similar sized 275VAC working varistor of a similar diameter will do the job. They are usually denoted by the characters 271K in the manufacturer's part reference. For example a an EPCOS B72214S0271K101 Good luck. Please remember to like and subscribe. Thanks.
@@razenby that's a fantastic fast & complete answer! thanks!
You didn’t say what you calculated the value of the resister to be i see you used six to replace it but could you elaborate on exactly how you did it.
It is in the video.. Use a 47 ohm 2W fusible resistor
Hi, excellent video and useful explanations as to which component do what. I’m a washing machine engineer and a similar thing happens on Bosch dryers, where the switch mode and resistor blow. I’ve had lots of success replacing the components on Zanussi/Aeg machines, but on Bosch/Siemens, the machine works but only tends to do one or two cycles of drying before the components blow again. What could be causing this? I’ve heard maybe failing capacitors cause it but I’m not sure. Have you ever had experience with a Bosch board? Thanks in advance
Thanks. The power supplies are all pretty similar. Change the buck diode and the HV and LV reservoir capacitors. Also check the metal oxide VDR looks OK. The chip should be protect itself against overload on the output side so that wont blow it up. It is a pretty simple circuit with few components. Also depending on the machine design there is a transient filter at the mains inlet on most machines, usually located in the mains route at the casing where the cable enters. Depending on the impedance of your mains supply, if the filter has gone O/C than you can get nasty transients hitting the controller when the motor turns on and off . Makes sure the mains wall socked and plug are OK and not arcing. This can cause controller reliability issues. Don't plug power tools or vacuum cleaners in to adjacent wall sockets.
@@razenby Thankyou for your swift and thorough response
Great videos and now subscribed! Do you happen to know the LNK device in a Zanussi ZWG1120M, as it's blown it's top! Thinking maybe a 305NP? TIA Andrew
Usually a LNK 304.
Thanks for your detailed explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. Thanks.
I had the same blown resistor and chip, replaced both but think I messed something up or something else is also fried. Had a closer look and the very small component at s1 just under the chip looked slightly out of position maybe due to the heat gun heartening it.Went to move it back and managed to drop and lose it. Would you know what it is and where I could get one or do u offer a repair service as I’m not 100% sure it was out of place to begin with?
Sorry I don't have one here. If you send me a close up picture f that part of the circuit board I can work it out.
Hi Magic Smoke. Brilliant video thanks. I am hoping you have solved my problem with my dryer but I have a related question about the cables connected to the PCB. How can I send you the details to see if you can help? Thanks, Nick
ark.mail@gmx.com
Great Video. Ordered the parts and will have a go. Luckily I am good at soldering :-)
How did it go?
Hello, what is the name of the solder paste that you use?
KINGBO RMA-218
Hello.. I have this issue.. but do you know what value from the new resistor is?... You make a new one .. I hope you can give me the awnser ... Thanks.
47 Ohm 2W Wire Wound.
Hi, I have the same drier, ZDC37200W, when I turn the timer knob it should activate the start button, it should light up and when pressed the dryer should start. However the start button does not always light up, therefore when pressed will not start the dryer. This is intermittent, I have to move the timer knob slowly back and forward and eventually the start button will light up. Any idea on what the fault is caused by?
Difficult to say. Could be a faulty rotary switch or a bad connection or solder joint on the controller.
I changed the lnk 304 and 47 ohm resistor and i’m still facing the same problem, what should i do
If you know the safety precautions then check that the high voltage making it as far as the chip. Check the reservoir capacitor has about 350V volts on it. Sometimes the mains switches fail. Also check the diodes around the LNK chip. It could be that the micro on the low voltage side is blown but then the board powers up and some LEDs are stuck on.
Hi, thank you for the video and explanation. You mentioned that you sold the lnk304gn and the 47 ohm 3 watt resistor on ebay. Could you please provide me with the ebay link, thanks
Sorry I ran out. Did you get some ? If not Ill get a load into stock.
@@razenby Yes , I managed to find the bits and with the help of your video fixed the tumble dryer. Would be good for you to post the Link to your eBay store, thank you
Hi I am trying to remove the plugs from the square/rectangular sockets . The ones with spade connectors. I can't work out if there is a clip or whether they just pull out. I'm worried that I will break the pcb if I pull too hard. Please can you tell me how to unplug them. thanks
They pull out. They can be very stiff. A pair of long nose pliers (grips) can be used to rock the connector from side to side and ease it out. Don't pull on the wires. Thanks for watching. Subscribe of you can.
Hi. I have this model too and have changed the heating element and checked all other components which are all saying are ok but the heater is only running one of two elements. I was hoping you might show a reason here. Is there anything on the circuit board which would account for this failure? Thanks.
Trace the wiring back to see if each heater element is run for a separate relay. If so it could be a stuck /failed relay. Also inspect the solder joints around the relays and have a closer look at the spade crimps for signs of arcing or burning. If you suspect the relay then swap them over to see if the fault transfers to the working element. Relays are cheap and freely available,
@@razenby Thanks for your quick reply. The only wire separately connected to the bottom heater element is a black one and goes to the middle terminal of the 3 pin connection on the pcb. Resistance throughout the wiring shows up ok. All connections look ok. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm sorry, I'm a complete novice at this sort of thing to be honest. The connection seems to be going to relay 1 (RL1)The heater element is brand new and I'm sure its going to be something tiny and stupid thats stopping this machine from heating fully. I've had to buy a new tumble dryer meantime but it seems a shame to scrap it. Overall its in great condition.
If you want to post the controller I will take a look at it and make a video - funded by video channel. You just need to pay postage and a couple of quid for the part.
@@razenby ok thanks. I think I will. I'm very interested to know where the problem lies.
@@razenby I sent an email to you. andybruce@btinternet.com
Ive had a friends dryer board given to me as the machine was also dead, its identical to the board as you have and made the repair to the board by replacing the LNK304GN and the 47 ohm resistor.
The dryer now powers up and runs but after 25 seconds ends the cycle. This can be repeated on any setting apart from the cooling setting where it works faultless so clearly something on the heating circuit.
Ive tested the rear stats and the heater and also the front NTC all appear to be fine.
Ive also checked over the board and have tested the basics and all seem ok, any thoughts? im actually thinking its the heater relay but question why this would suddenly go?
Would you have any ideas?
Clearly it is related to the heating element. You are right to question why would the relay fail at the same time. It is a common trap to assume multiple faults and end up investigating a dead end. However, a transient in the mains could have taken out the LNK chip. The transient could have been caused by a a short in the heating element especially if you don't have an RCD in your house. (Many older houses do not). If the heating element is not open circuit (measure resistance) then are you sure that all the plugs are correctly connected ? Double check the ones for the heating element itself and the temperature sensor. The spade connectors on the board can have cracked solder joints if they have been unplugged, Inspect the board for any solder whiskers that may have been left on it during the repair.
I have an issue with my AEG Lavatherm Protex Plus dryer. Sometimes it stops within 10-15 minutes and everytime I turn it on, I have to set the time. I have a lnk586gg but could be sonething else like a diode e.g.? Thank you from germany
additionally: could it be something else besides the lnk586 GG like a diode?
It sounds like it may well be a power problem. If you have had it for a while then change the chip anyway. they have a finite life and the new chips are better than the old. Check for bad connections and signs of sparking. Also don't forget the mains lead and plug - a power problem anywhere in the chain will cause this. Also change the main DC reservoir capacitor.
Thank you for this video. I am having an issue with my Zanussi dryer ZTH 485 which does not show any sign of life. I have removed the board from the dryer and was checking for some continuity. Most were showing continuity, but I am not sure where to look as I this is the first time to attempt something like this. Any help?
Is there a LNK301, LNK302 or a LNK 303 IC on the board ?
@@razenby thank you for the reply. Yes, there is one: 1140 LNK304GN 0B392B
See the video. the circuit is likely to be the same and the LNK chip is the usual cause of a dead controller. Be careful as there are high voltages when connected to the power.
@@razenby A bit stupid of me as I got electrocuted. :) The LNK chip number should be the same as the one on the board or any number can do?
Any idea where I can order one online?
I found your video interesting but a bit beyond my GCSE physics from many years ago!
We have a Zanussi ZDC47100W which died today after being run with the water tank overflowing. I was hoping it was just a thermal fuse replacement but can't seem to find it ( if it's a PCB problem I'd have to send that away to get the replacement component soldered on).
I've had the dryer open to change the belt last year and had a quick look inside tonight. Does anyone know where the thermal fuse is? Many thanks.
My friend has a machine that has gone dead and wants me to look at it. Did you find the answer? Because it would also help me?
Just check the AC power to the controller is present. If you get no beeps or lights then the power supply chip is likely to have blown. Take out the controller and inspect it carefully. If water or condensation forms on the high voltage areas of the controller then the offline PWM controller chip blows the instant you turn on the power.
Hi I've got zanussi tumble dryer there's no power to it its zdc37200w and
Will LNK304GN SOP7 Integrated Circuit from Power Integrations fit mine?
Thanks for your help
Yes I believe it uses the LNK chip
I meant will this fit mine LNK304GN SOP7 Integrated Circuit from Power Integrations ?
Thank you
You need SMDB package LNK304GN uk.rs-online.com/web/p/buck-converters/1465628/
Very good video - relevant facts,well presented.
Thanks for sharing.
Subbed.
Thanks.
Has anyone found the circuit diagram? I’m in a pickle and would love to modify the pcb and add a 5v and 12v smps’ to get mine going asap. Otherwise I’ll wire the mains side up so as soon as the mains power is turned on, it runs.
I have never seen a schematic You can just trace the circuit and use the PWM off-line chip datasheet. It is easier to simply repair the switching power supply
I got an Zanussi Lindo300 washer machine with a controller which got touch buttons. The controller programmer is messed up. For example if i try to touch the buttons, it take a while to response as the controller goes here and there non stop. The non stop stops when ever i keep my finger on one of the buttons and goes crazy again when ever my finger goes of from it. There is no error code i get. Some times it works normally but after a while it will do the same thing.
Any advice what it could be? Thank u!
If the controller is clean with no signs or water ingress or corrosion then the issue is most likely power related so change C2, C3, C4. This is the most likely scenario. If you want to send it I'll test it for you and make a video.
47 ohm
Thanks.
Eleectricity… and ehhhh power? Seriously
Yup, You would be in the dark and cold, wet, miserable, bored and alone without it!!!