Excellent video. It has saved me the cost of a new dryer. The technique for chip unsoldering worked well and I found both the 304 chip and the wire wound resistor on line. So, many many thanks for the videos.
Hi Mr Smoke(!), We have an AEG dryer, purchased in 2016 while we were living in Germany, and we have since returned to our home in Australia. Two weeks ago, it just would not start, no indication of power at all. In my search for a cause, I came across your RUclips video, and decided to have a crack at repairing it myself. I took apart the machine and found the correct circuit board (in our dryer, the circuit board with the LNK chip is not behind the front control panel, but is attached to the inside right panel of the frame). The LNK chip (LNK586GG) was obviously cooked, much like the one in this video. I purchased a new one on Ebay, and followed your video. Despite some issues (when I cut one of the legs on the original chip, the chip moved and part of the circuit board material attached to one of the legs also came a little loose), I persevered and soldered the new chip on anyway...and I also replaced the 47 Ohm resistor (with a 47 Ohm 5 Amp spiral wound resistor, as I could not get a 3 Amp one locally). Despite my inexperience, and the issues with removing the original chip, the dryer powered up after reassembly. Under careful supervision we will run a load through the dryer later this evening. Thanks for the video, and thanks for the tips, there is no way I would have known what to look for without your guidance!
@@razenby I have liked and subscribed, and the dryer performed perfectly after the fix....so thank you again! Very grateful that our dryer did not need a costly repair or replacement!
Hello Magic Smoke, What a fantastic video I followed you and your explanation of the problem, took out the board and to the naked eye it wasn’t obvious, had to use a phone camera to blow up the photos, you were spot on, ordered the parts cost more in post, soldered them to the board and now up and working, saved the machine from going to waste, cant thank you enough for posting your video
Great video mate, I was gifted a non working Electrolux washer. With my skills from Ham radio I deduced that 47r was OC, I replaced it but my gut told me I was fixing the result not the fault. Sure enough....back to square one, then I decided the 304 was probably the culprit and started researching it and found a healthy cottage industry changing them. Really enjoyed your version of desoldering versus my own style, I've learned a few things here, love RUclips for this sort of learning and skill sharing. I have saved a washing machine and a high quality pressure washer this week all for about $25. Using my own skills supplemented by additional information from people like yourself. Again, thanks your video is the best on the 304 subject btw👏👏👏
What an enlightening, charming and amusing video! Full of tips on dismantling, soldering and so on. I'm now inspired to dismantle my board and have a close look at that resistor etc. Thanks a million ohms. John
Your message is in time! I just went through all my old component boxes looking for a wirewound and didn't find anything suitable, so I will order a couple this weekend. I will order a couple of those chips while I am at it. I always go through my wish lists before making such a small order, just to see if I need a £1000 oscilloscope as well (so I save on relative postage costs). Just remembered: solder braid. See? Procrastination works! Thanks again for a brilliant video and your kindness in following up. Best wishes from Portugal Chris
It’s nice when a repair video exactly matches my problem! Smoke escaped on my 304 in exactly the same place. (Also glad to see you fighting the clips as well 😂)
You obviously love your trade very much as you have quite some knowledge on the subject and you don't mind sharing it in a very calm, ' order of the day ' fashion - great stuff, - I always enjoyed watching someone who truly loves what they do at work
What an instructional video! With many pauses I got as far as R76, the 47Ω resistor, and sure enough, it was open. The diodes you mention seem OK, so the next test is to power it up, and see if I want to replace the chip. During the vid I was thinking, the Yanks get straight to the point and I love them, but a Brit gives more detail. I am glad you talk to your dog, don't lament the poor answers, because if it was brighter It would not be a dog. As for cows farting in the living room, I howled! You won't get that on a Yank video. Many thanks for a good lesson, including solder wick and tackling surface-mount components, which I would never have dreamed of doing before (I might still have to change that chip). Keep up the good work! Chris
Hi Chris, Thanks for the comments. You will certainly have to change that chip. It is patient zero in the ensuing cascade of destruction. If you plug in without changing it then the resistor will blow again. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! I have a dead Electrolux dryer EDH97951W. I opened it and has the same problem. Now a have to order the right components. I hope I manage to fix it. 🙂
@@razenby After changing the ic and resistor it seemed to work OK. It started and ran but stopped after a while. It wasn't dead, but it didn't run out the entire program. 😪 So now it has unfortunately been thrown away and a new one has been bought.😐
Nice, I learnt a lot from this! Another failure point of these types of PCBS with edge connectors is corrosion, which can be well hidden when it is sandwiched in its plastic shroud
im trying this today. Hopefully picking up a 304GN this afternoon from local. Absolutely loved your 1mm wire trick, worked like a dream. As an airconditioning and electrical engineer this was a new area of expertise for me, but i am definitrly enjoying myself 😀
The great thing about failures with these boards most of the time is you can look on the inside of the plastic casing and see exactly where the issue is. Even if it’s just getting overly hot. Something that really helps us before you destiny of it having a few different wave links of ultraviolet light is super useful. Now that you can get cheap deep UVC LEDs, add that to a standard three and 65 nano meter LED flashlight used to look for dog piss… And you’ll be amazed with the different wave links and colors of light will show. The heat marks or shit stains on the plastic and boards might be very late sometimes, but having different colors of light just makes them so easy to see. Almost like on those TV shows where they’ll show blood spatter with a black light. Which absolutely does not work like that show but still. I also have wave links ranging the entire spectrum and there have been times where they come in handy. Not to mention how well they pick up things like electrolyte leakage, and amplify the visible characteristics of heated and warmed parts. Steam also helps a lot. I know that shouldn’t really be used with boards but I use steam from an ultrasonic cleaner that is not water basin that evaporates really quickly but water-based stain would be fine as long as the board is just dried out really good afterwards. The steam settles differently and refracts the light differently amplifying interesting areas by orders of magnitude. Obviously this is just a quick little trick you can use it’s no way to actually troubleshoot a board but within 30 seconds of popping something apart he can get you in the right area so quickly. It’s just some thing I have found useful personally but I am half retarded so if I had real trouble shooting skills I probably wouldn’t rely on silly stuff like that … I need all the help I can get 😂 I see over 100 of those boards per year. Exactly the same obviously populated a bit differently but what is totally different was the plastic housing and button can figuration. Must be a UK thing the cars out of the thousand or so boards I’ve seen in the last decade out of washers and dryer‘s… I’ve never seen a cantilevered button configurational like that. “Kind of elegant but a bit over engineered.” Sounds about like how Americans view the rest of the UK 😁 no malicious intent… I love it over there. I’m always proud when I finish up and have a dozen screws left over. That means I must of been smarter than the engineers.😬 kidding obviously Remember that little power saving vice you tore down in another video? That had a little box of sand inside that was supposed to look like a PFC capacitor. You silly brunettes… That’s how we really economized and made our power generation technology so much more carbon neutral. Each and every hydroelectric or nuclear plant United States they just have a few of those plugged in on the output lines. 😂😂😂😂 problem solved
I don’t have a good cell service right now so I’m watching this on the lowest resolution setting. So I couldn’t make out the cracks in that resistor but super good eyes for spotting that because I can imagine they were nearly invisible.
Thanks for the comment. The plant that I ran had 30 repair engineers and they used to dive in with the scope when I could peer over their shoulder and tell then that a component was missing, reversed or broken. Having a really good look and a think before embarking on circuit level troubleshooting usually saves hours . I adapt my opticians prescription and get eyeglasses made to my own specification. When I am wearing them I can see close up like a 10 year old with 20-20 vision. When I take them off I cant event read my watch!!!!
Dear Mr Magic Smoke, Bravo to you for a great video. Very informative, educational and keeping us smiling with some amusing side-stories. I just dismantled my AEG washing machine to get the motor out because I thought it would be the brushes (error codes E51 & EF5). Turns out there is black smoke near the LNK364GN chip which is right next to a somewhat blackened E47X 1551 coil with 5 legs. Will try to send a picture if youtube permits. Anyhow, now I need to decide whether to buy a whole new/used PCB (which might need configuration) or try to change some components.... Your video is useful to help decide this, so thanks for leading the battle to help beat programmed obsolescence & prevent stuff piling up in landfills and/or being burnt by the empoverished in developing countries to extract the gold & copper, etc.
@@razenby Ok. Great. Could I perhaps send you some pics e.g. by email or WhatsApp in case you think other components nearby might also need to be replaced at the same time? The area of the black smoke was some 2x3cm on the underside of the PCB. (Should I wipe that all away before taking pics?) The machine stopped 7minutes into a 10min spin cycle with an electrical smoke kind of smell. The red LED programme selection panel all appears to work fine, but then nothing happens when we press the start button. I have a soldering iron from the 1980/1990s and could have a go as you suggested, though will need to learn to test components first with my new multimeter I suppose to see which are bad. As I say, I'm still weighing up whether to change the whole PCB.... Any thoughts would be welcomed.
@@razenby also your tips on which soldering iron is very helpful. I tried with my old 15W soldering iron from my youth and it was not very successful. I've now bought a 60W @460C & a 100W @500C, one of which will hopefully work better.
Ok, i'm following u for a while. Learned a lot. No comments does not mean u are doing it wrong :) I watch and enjoy. Please keep the audio repair video's coming. Thats where my interests are. Bose, JBL, Poweramps maybe ? Greetz from Belgium !
really helpful thank you enabled me to fix a very similar Bosch model using a TNY264 chip (i guess similar) exectly same fault with resistor too. I replaced the 450v cap at the same time (but I think it was okay) great help - much appreciated
Cracking tutorial, i like the wire cage keeping the solder molten, sneaky :-D Hopefully that machine is still working. Now i'm hopeing my bosch serie 4 washing machine does not have a crappy pwm chip.
They do that!! I got hit in the chest by a large smoothing cap can on a Philips G11 television I was fixing. It knocked me of my stool and as I fell backwards my foot caught the CRT board and broke the neck. It left a big bruise. Thanks for watching.
This is wild! I’m sitting here with a similar board (almost identical just some color differences on components) in front of me that I just removed from my AEG tumble dryer that is completely dead, it act as the plug is not connected, totally dead. I was looking for schematics on google and this video popped up. As you show the chip that has blown, I look closer on my chip, and what do you know! It’s melted almost at the same location as yours, there are a small amount of residue on the same spot and it has a few melted spots on top just like yours! I then locate the resistor and measure it, open circuit… Seems like my board failed the EXACT same way! This is crazy.. A friend of mine had the same happen to her’s, and she changed a control board she said. It wasn’t that expensive but this was a few years ago and it’s now expensive.. I’m gonna aren’t to fix this my self, just to see if it will work. Would be really awsome if this fixed it😄 Btw, is there a better chip I should look for? (I have gotten to the 15:22 mark in the video so you might mention it, but I just got so exited!!) Edit: I just checked with my supplier (Elfa Distrelec), and they have a LNK304PN, and my board has a LNK304GN, what is the difference? And i can only find a 47R 10% resistor at 17w, i guess thats to much if yours was 3w..? Mine does not say anything about watt..
Thanks for watching. Yes, it is really schoolboy power supply design worthy of a smart light bulb rather than an expensive domestic appliance! The poor reliability would be obvious to even a half-competent design engineer. I conclude that they know and don't care. The chip manufacturer (Power Integrations) has a huge amount of Landfill on their hands. This chip is used and fails in a very wide range of domestic products. Make sure you buy a fusible wire wound resistor and not a standard one. A standard one would constitute a fire hazard. You need the GN part as the PN is a SOIC package which is much smaller than the GN.
@@razenby Thanks for the answer! I remember what you said about firehazard so i specifically looked for a wirewond resistor👍 But i found several auctions on ebay selling the chip and a "normal" metal resistor together.. That's not good.. Im sure many people have bought it not knowing about it. But i guess the way they look gives them off as proper wirewond resistors. The one i bought looked alot like the one on the board in term of color and surface. Think i bought several, so i might crack one open just to verify. hehe
@@Alpejohn They are fusible wirewound resistors that have a volatile coating inside that explodes during massive overload. Very special. Made by Bournes
The correct resistor is a Bournes Fusible Wire-Wound resistor. Designed as a resistor with volatile coating under the outer coating that causes the resistor to explode instead of getting red-hot.
Just found this video after my old washing machine gave up with exactly the problem you said. No power to the display, just poof, worked the night before nothing the next day. Obviously being a family we needed a new machine fairly quick, but I've kept the old one because I wanted to see if I could repair it, after already replacing the drum that failed. Anyway, the chip I have is a LNK364GN, but after a quick clean up, as there was no noticeable sign of an explosion, getting my mobile camera out and zooming right in, I notice a very small crack in the surface. So highly likely a blown chip. I couldn't get the same chip number exactly, but got the next model up which should work based on docs. Anyway, don't have a hot air station, and don't want to cut the chip as it's so tight, but I saw your copper wire trick, and that looks like the way I'm going to try lifting this chip. It's in a tight spot, so will have to be careful. And will check the green resistor too, along with a few other components that look like they are on the circuit, or close by. If I can get it repaired and working, I'll let you know, but thanks for a very useful and helpful video.
Well, I have to say I've been doing this for 40 years and I also made a video 10 years ago on this ruclips.net/video/7KmnizwuUEM/видео.html I take my hat off to you. Your filming of the repair is much better than mine and I would estimate just in the UK over 10,000 tumble dryers from AEG Zanussi Electrolux and John Lewis have been scrapped because of this fault. Or the other common one is the relay goes open circuit. Keep up the good work and help beat built-in obsolescence. By the way the predominant reason these boards fail on a regular basis, they are normally plugged into a poor power supply extension leads, spur sockets overloaded are the common problem I see this causes a voltage drop to the board, ware are you to in the uk
Thanks for watching. They just fail spontaneously these chips are a weak and are not adequately protected by the filtering. Have a look at a Miela or Siemens controller and see the additional filtering on the HV input side. It is no mystery as the power supply is just too rudimentary and the UK mains voltage is too high. A lot of the testing and product design and testing is done at 230VAC mains..... Real world power supply ages the switching FET until eventually it breaks down.
Great instructional video, with a decent resolution which you can see clearly. I had a dead bosch dishwasher, did the snip legs off and clean up method, also the wirewound was blown, much easier to do that. Assembled and tested all working ok now 😊 What make, model of soldering iron do you recommend? Mine needs replacing Thanks very much
Good job. If you do a lot of soldering then your very best bet is to buy a second hand professional Weller soldering iron station with a WSP90 iron. It makes soldering very easy and has very accurate temperature control. The element is silver and the tips are silver so there is great thermal coupling between the element and tip - as soon as the heat is being conducted away the iron can deliver the and heat the job. It is a lifetime investment. You can but all the bits of the iron separately and spares are cheap. However they are very reliable. If you see a second hand one - it may look beaten up but they will probably work.
From my experience any of the red dark amber colored resistors are fire retardant or somewhat resistant to heat. Also you’ll find these ceramic feeling Matt black type I guess so the heat can radiate away. Also they’ll sometimes have those really long square tight legs so that they can be held off of the board… But the body of the resistor themselves looks just like any standard resistor. They make them bigger by 50% or more to make up for heat not only internal but mainly absorbing less and radiating more external source heat. and give a little more wiggle room. Dale/vishaydating back as far as I can remember and it’s what you would find in furnaces and other areas that needed resistors that had an outer and inner characteristic more resistant to heat. Also a lot of the Milspec and Aerospace grade stuff was flame retardant and resistant as a standard feature. You can still buy a lot of that really high grade aerospace stuff huge box lots of it online. It’s usually pretty much the same with a few more features and obviously goldplated legs usually
Thanks for the comment. Many wire wound low value resistors act as both a fuse and fuse - otherwise known as fusible resistors. The specs for these are very sketchy and they don't perform as a fuse anywhere near as effectively as a real fuse. They are a compromise but better than nothing at all.
Excellent and very instructive video. But I'm interested in what kind of camera you use. The zoom is phenomenal. Is that a phone? Thank you for your reply.
Excellent video, very informative :) I have an AEG TN95570 dryer with the same fault. The dryer has a small display on the controller, but is probably very similar. Do you know if this fix applies to that model as well?
Brilliant video, thank you. My Zanussi board is identical and has the same scorch mark and blown resistor. Do you have an ebay site or can you recommend where is best to order the 304 and resistor from? Thanks again!
Are you getting any DC voltage on the low voltage electronics? If it is still dead then you will need a multimeter to debug it, Check the diodes on the HV side. Remember to disconnect from power and discharge the HV reservoir capacitor before touching anything. Check D4, D10 (if fitted), the S)T-23 diode (6BW) to the left of R79 and you solder joints for bridges and dry joints!!!
Great video, I have dead aeg tumble dryer with a very similar board. I replaced the LNK chip as it was obviously blown but it did not fix the issue. On closer inspection a similar wire wound resister has cracked and blown but I cannot find a replacement. The resistor looks to be 4.9M ohm 1% with similar dimensions to the one you replaced do you have any idea where I can get a replacement or do you have those in stock too?
0.5mm 60/40 Sn/Pb by Qualtec Loctite/Multicore is good for general use, not to tick for small components and not too thing for large solder joints. Thanks for watching.
Amazing info thanks for this, hopefully this will enable me to stop mine from going to landfill too! You say in the video that we can get the parts from your ebay store - do you have a link for that somewhere? I'm going to start searching for a magic smoke store! now i just need to see f my soldering iron is up to the job!
Superb narration and filming - incredibly helpful and now I know what's wrong with my pcb. I'm after the resistor and LNK304GN ... what ohm value did you settle on for the resistor? Have you any of these components in stock, and if so, how can I buy them from you? Regards, Mike
Thanks Mike. The resistor is 3W 47R in stock, LNK304GN in stock. Email me at ark.mail@gmx.com and I will mail then to you. The office ships every day. Is your resistor blown (that is a good sign). It'll be whatever they cost me plus postage.
@@razenby Cheers for a super fast reply ... yep the resistor's fubar and there's splatters near the LNK. On the upside, the diode's OK. I'll email you after dinner. Cheers, Mike
I have exactly the same issue and it was really helpful (and entertaining) to see this video. You mentioned that you have parts available and I'd love to be able to purchase the 47ohm resistor and the Power Integrations chip from you. Is this still possible?
Just to add, I could start removing smds to try to identify short but where would I start?, are there weak links/parts that are prone to failure in low voltage side, no oscilloscope so cannot test transformer or lnk output. Thanks
It is unusual to the fault to be due to component failure on the low voltage side. Invariably it is the Off-line buck regulator circuit that fails. Have you checked the components on the HV power supply side?
Very good explanation. I have a question: Locally in Portugal I only find 47R bobinated 3W but rated 100v. Can I use this or better to order online something like ULW3-47RJA1, rated 350V ?
The correct part is a Bourns 2W 47 Ohm Fusible resistor. Search/ buy Bourns part number: FW20A47R0JACT Good luck. Please subscribe to the channel if you can.
@@razenby Thank you. I end up buying a 47R 2W fused resistor but the coating is rated more (600V). It will arrive next week in the shop. To buy the wired one, i would have to to spend 20€ in delivery. I will post the news. Already subscribed.
Great video , the AEG lavatherm 55540 dryer was defective, it didn't work anymore, not a single light was on. On advice replace IC LNK304GN and also a resistor of 100 ohm ,and all lights light up again, but then also all lights. it seems that the machine must first be reset (clear error codes) and then it works again. I can't find the correct procedure on the internet unfortunately, but many procedures of other types (which have a small display) Do you perhaps know the key combinations for this type?
Hi thanks for the great video - I have a Zanussi washing machine - no power checked the 47ohm resistor and it was O/C changed it O/C again, found your video and changed the LNK304 and now I have power😃 the leds are on but after 10 or 20 seconds they all go off again and come back after 30 secs or so, looks like something is cutting out, do you have any further videos to help me go deeper? thanks keep up the great work ! doubleAA
@@razenby Hey Magic - Thanks for the quick reply and for doing what you do. I pulled the machine out and it turns out the mains socket was the problem - which is annoying because I was looking for an excuse to buy a new soldering iron! this video is great!
Hello I am looking at your video 'AEG Tubmle Drier Dead Controller Repair and test'. It is fantastic and I will try this to see if I can repair my AEG dryer control unit. At 38 seconds you mention a video about removing the panel. Do you have a link for that video? Regards
Nice work I'm interested in fixing motherboards for appliances I fixed a GE motherboard for a washing machine it was a bad triac that controled the lock lid I'm sure you know the advantages of using an nice flux chip quick etc..
Hello @Magic Smoke, Very nice video. Thank you for sharing this knowledge. In my Electrolux dryer I had exactly same issue (blown LNK586GG and resistor) but after replacement both elements the controlled is still dead. I also check elements around LNK like diod and capacitor but everything looks fine. Could you please guide me what to check next? I measure LNK under voltage and there is only 320V DC on pin 4, pin 1 and 2 0V
The best bet is too pull up the datasheet for the LNKxxx chip. The application circuit is there. Take a look at it and makes sure all the associated components are OK and that none of the PCB tracking has been blown open circuit. If you can't see like a teen with 2020 vision then get a magnifier. I know it sound glib but the number 'carefully inspected' things that have brought to me that have bad solder is beyond a joke. If you cant see then you cant inspect therefore you cant repair.
Hello great tutorial, I replaced lnk chip and 47ohm resistor on dead identical board and it ran for several months, then burning smell and dead again. There was a 5mm hole burned through the board above the lnk chip viewed from underside, trace from drain was destroyed. I connected drain to one side of transformer with wire and new diode, cathode to bottom of 100k resistor furthest from transformer??, not 100% if right Fitted new lnk chip and 47 ohm resistor, at power on no led or beep, and L3 inductor gets hot, indicating to me a short on secondary. Can you possibly make any suggestions, are my trace repairs right?, any help very appreciated.
A secondary short would not cause the Buck inductor to overheat as a working LNK chip automatically detect and limits the overcurrent on the secondary side.. I suspect you still have a fault on the mains power supply.
Thank you for helping, to just seek your help one more time please. Because there was a hole burned through the board just at the output of the LNK chip taking the trace at drain with it, I could do with your help with the high voltage trace layout . I have been looking for a schematic everywhere and forums to no avail. Pausing your video at 8.25 1 Is the output of LNK connected directly to one side of transformer (anode of D5 trace) 2 Is the cathode of D5 connected to the cathode of TRSB1 (100k resistor on mine) Again any help/suggestions much appreciated
Thanks for the video, very clear. I have a similar controller board that has stopped working. But I think the LNK304GN is ok. There is a lot of soot around the transformer. My buck coil (transformer) looks a bit different to the one on your board but I think it's doing a similar thing. I'm having trouble identifying it for a replacement part. It's markings are E47 x 1116. Any idea what those numbers mean??
If you see a LNK304GN then change it. Hoping that it is good wont save you. The 304 may have damaged coil. Are you sure the soot is coming from the coil and not jetted out of the side of the 304?
@@razenby Thanks for the reply. It's possible the soot is coming from the 304 but that's sitting on the underside of my board and most of the black soot is on the top - how far does it travel? I do have a Triac that's blown (for the circulation pump), but that's some distance away. The soot on my board looks just like this one - www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3726567.html - mostly around the transformer. The 304 is sitting on the reverse of the board just under the big resistor and diode. The wire wound resistor on my board is ok. Maybe I will check the transformer by removing it and measuring its coils?
@@fluxobjects In the picture it looks to me to be fine dust attracted by the electric field on the HV side of the board. Get some iso-propyl alcohol and give the board a good clean and then look for the scarring on the components.
Hi your video is helping me a lot, but I'm wondering my washing machine is turning of completely after water level device clicks when there is enough water, like it goes some short circuit. After I remove water from machine it goes back on on its own, display is running I can choose programs etc. Water level device is OK I checked it with specs and tested with multymeter, it do what is should do. On the board there is no smoke no damaged components everything is nice and tidy, can it be damaged board even if everything else is working including a display? Thanks.
Hi, Which LEDs are on or flashing when this happens? When you say short circuit does the machine blows the fuse or trips the circuit breaker? If you select a cold rinse program does this happen then?
@@razenby I solved it thanks to you, I was looking for short circuit. It was one, signaling wire from temperature sensor were touching heater, melted and short those two wires together, I just cut off the damaged wire, reconnected connectors (also checked rest of the wires for damage) and now it is working as new, no problems at all. Thank you so much for the help.
Brilliant! Thanks for this. After watching, I opened my dryer up and it was exactly this problem. Ordered the parts online (2 euro plus postage) and did the fix easily. Works a treat. You mention looking at your other video to see how to get at the board, but I couldn't find it in your videos, so if anybody else is looking, here's a Dutch guy getting the card out: ruclips.net/video/ZUQ7BlK2YCo/видео.html
Half of it is in the can. I am waiting to borrow a suite of the correct development software for the DSP. It isn't cheap. I still have to work out which chip has been branded as a Bose custom part.
@@razenby shame, I've got a Bose Solo here with an intermittent fault whereby sometimes the unit won't enter or exit standby mode. Or, won't enter standby most on first power up. I've added extra decoupling to the 1.8v and 3.3v rails next to the DSP chip which seems to have helped. Got some new crystals on order too as I suspect there's an instability somewhere on the low voltage side which is leading to the DSP to not initialise correctly or just crash. Quite interested to see what your findings were.
Hello. I'm from Australia with an Electrolux dryer edv505. It all seems to work. Except no heat. People seem to swap the pcb to fix... Any idea what could cause it not to heat?
Bad wiring crimp-look for blackened ones. Thermal trip (internal) had tripped due to over-temperature condition. (Some have manual rset) Heating element open circuit (failed) Bad thermistor / temperature thermistor sensor(s) (NTC) Heater relay on control board failed.
@@razenby hi. Thanks. I took my pcb out and brought to a friend who has same dryer. Plugged in and also only blew cold.. Would I be able to send you a photo of the board? (not sure if it's possible to diagnose by sight. But it looks good to me, me being non electrical skilled)
@@razenby actually I'm watching your zanussi video... If I short the "heater" points would that keep it on heat always? (I only turn on in 30min blocks)
Next to my LNK364GN chip, I have de-soldered by mistake the small capacitor (I think it would be equivalent to "C25" in this video - see video at 9min 58sec). Could anyone help by suggesting what value of capacitor I should use to replace it (e.g. "10nF 50v 10%" or similar?) so I can buy a replacement? This is on a circuit board for an AEG washing machine (AEG model number = L63470FL, product number = 91453401401, part number of the circuit board = 973914534014019). I cannot buy a whole new circuit board right now because there seems to be a supply shortage, so I am forced to try to fix this.
OK, for all you intrepid repairers out there, please remember that the product designers mostly copy their schematics from the manufacturer's datasheet. Warts and all. So you can get a pretty good idea by studying the datasheet (link below). In the datasheet you can see that in the example schematic that Pin 3 of the device (BP) is connected to a 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic to generate the internal DC supply internal CCT and FET drive. So yours was a good good one!! Good luck. Pls remember to like and subscribe. MS Datasheet link: www.farnell.com/datasheets/2059771.pdf?_ga=2.260221647.316122949.1496130365-1705634499.1495448867 )
@@razenby That's super. Thanks very much for your reply. So based on the datasheets for the LNK364GN & LNK364GN-TL, it seems that I can also use a 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic capacitor for connection to the "Bypass (BP)" pin. Additionally, from the diagrams on the datasheets we see that all the "Source (S)" pins are to be connected together, so I assume that the short circuit of solder that I've inadvertently created between some of these "Source (S)" legs doesn't make any difference. Btw - I liked and subscribed quite a while ago already. It's great to have your support to help keep all this electrical equipment out of landfill sites and beat what some might describe as programmed obsolescence.
Hello. I had a dead dryer and I managed to get it powered by replacing the LNK. But now I get EH0 error. Ive sent you an email as well. Please give some hints why this error might be happening.
EHO is a power condition error. It is sensing (maybe erroneously) that the mains voltage is not correct. Check all connections to the controller are correct. Clean the edge fingers on the board and inspect all crimps and wiring. It may be bad connection somewhere. Bad mains plug, bad mains impedance (poor house wiring) or running on an extension lead can cause this. Otherwise you may still have a fault or a bad relay or bad solder joint in the AC power tracks on your controller on your controller. Inspect very carefully.
I got it working finally! Did two main things 1) touched up some solder joints which seemed ok but werent as perfect as the rest. 2) removed my old install of the lnk364gn and cleaned up. Lost one more pad in the process. But eventually i used a 0.6mm enameled copper wire to short the Source pins of the lnk n also to connect the bypass cap between pin 4 n pin 2. Assembled everything n now no EH0 error! Drum turns fine everytime!! Thanks a lot for your great videos n help otherwise!
Hi there. Do you offer a repair service? I have a problem with my AEG dryer board with drum only rotating in one direction. Can you provide email address. Thanks
E62 is the power relay or blown heater element. In my experience it is much more common for the heater element to fail. It is easy enough to find out which one it is by tracing the series back from the heating element to the plug that connects to the controller and then check to which relay the traces connect to from the corresponding socket. The element itself should read in the range of a few tens of ohms across it's power connections and on your highest ohms range on your multi-meter, you should get no conductivity between the power connections and the machine chassis.
Question.. Next to the LNK chip is a NPN smd transistor and in your video its marked Q4 see: ruclips.net/video/muZyKkXTbac/видео.html that one is bad in my case, it's marked C6t others have reported it marked B6t and yours 6Bw, what is it? there are 2 more on this board (Q5+Q6) and measuring the good ones I could only make out its NPN based. Also the "figured-out" schematics you can find online don't mention this transistor. Info about that ? anyone ?
@@razenby Thanks for that needed info. First the obvious problem (LNK304 was blown + resistor), instead of fixing that (no parts) I tried in a stupid attempt to bypass the LNK and feed it with buck converter but that didn't work (prob. fried the transistor in that attempt) Eventually replaced the LNK and of Corse now that did not work and found out that the transistor is defect. The selector also feels weird/loose so its my last attempt in fixing this dryer.
i like this kinda stuff! free dryer! why throw away! ive never had to buy a tumble dryer once, always picked up some free. now im possibly facing a similar issue with its control board, im not too familiar with electronics though.
Thanks. Get your soldering iron out.. It is bound to be a 50 cent component.. Invariably one can spot whats is wrong using simple observational skills . Why has that component got the side blown out of it? /what's that crack on the soldered pin?/why connector is brown?/Why is the casing on that component is cracked/shit the wire has dropped off etc.. ... Then the problem becomes a mechanical process - i.e. soldering. ....I My whole extended family has lovely tumble dryers bought from the man who collects them for the council. The mechanical parts on these units is hardly used and yet they are off to the landfill..
Oh come on now give the poor Chinese a break. 😂 I mean obviously not completely but just a little bit. They’re locked in a room for $0.15 a day with American designers and businessmen breathing down their neck ….pressuring them to save another half penny per thousand parts this week. I understand their culture is completely different and more of a survivalist dog eat dog type thing. Which does not bode well for running businesses with the utmost morality. But if the CCP ruled the UK or the United States …..we might live a bit more desperately also. From my experience shitty manufacturing, design, and engineering can be found everywhere on the globe. But there’s a good chance I’m just too daft to realize the truth …..so pound of salt and all that… Regarding Having conversations with the family dog… I always try to keep a few friendly (and not so friendly)animals in and around my workshop. But it’s too bad for me that most of what they say flies right over my head. They are far intellectually superior for the most part. You might end up regretting asking for comments as I make my rounds throughout your videos. 😁 Love the channel it really feels a niche for in-depth troubleshooting and explaining that just really isn’t that prevalent on RUclips
I have no problem going easy on honest manufacturers with integrity. It is just the poorly designed products that end landfill and willful negligence to ecology that I find revolting...
Хобби
What do people do in Belgium on Christmas morning? Look at videos of pcb-boards being repaired 😂. Great video 👍
Haha, thanks for watching and Happy Christmas! (I.m just as bad - always itching to do something technical)
Excellent video. It has saved me the cost of a new dryer. The technique for chip unsoldering worked well and I found both the 304 chip and the wire wound resistor on line.
So, many many thanks for the videos.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Hi Mr Smoke(!), We have an AEG dryer, purchased in 2016 while we were living in Germany, and we have since returned to our home in Australia. Two weeks ago, it just would not start, no indication of power at all. In my search for a cause, I came across your RUclips video, and decided to have a crack at repairing it myself. I took apart the machine and found the correct circuit board (in our dryer, the circuit board with the LNK chip is not behind the front control panel, but is attached to the inside right panel of the frame). The LNK chip (LNK586GG) was obviously cooked, much like the one in this video. I purchased a new one on Ebay, and followed your video. Despite some issues (when I cut one of the legs on the original chip, the chip moved and part of the circuit board material attached to one of the legs also came a little loose), I persevered and soldered the new chip on anyway...and I also replaced the 47 Ohm resistor (with a 47 Ohm 5 Amp spiral wound resistor, as I could not get a 3 Amp one locally). Despite my inexperience, and the issues with removing the original chip, the dryer powered up after reassembly. Under careful supervision we will run a load through the dryer later this evening. Thanks for the video, and thanks for the tips, there is no way I would have known what to look for without your guidance!
Good job. Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe if you can.
@@razenby I have liked and subscribed, and the dryer performed perfectly after the fix....so thank you again! Very grateful that our dryer did not need a costly repair or replacement!
Hello Magic Smoke, What a fantastic video I followed you and your explanation of the problem, took out the board and to the naked eye it wasn’t obvious, had to use a phone camera to blow up the photos, you were spot on, ordered the parts cost more in post, soldered them to the board and now up and working, saved the machine from going to waste, cant thank you enough for posting your video
Great job. Another machine saved. Thanks for the comment. Like and subscribe if you can.
I love the way you explain each part as you go along with the repair so a complete novice like me even at my time of life can learn,, thank you 👍👍
Thanks 👍. My dad used to say to me "I want to pass this on to you before I forget it'
Great video mate, I was gifted a non working Electrolux washer. With my skills from Ham radio I deduced that 47r was OC, I replaced it but my gut told me I was fixing the result not the fault.
Sure enough....back to square one, then I decided the 304 was probably the culprit and started researching it and found a healthy cottage industry changing them.
Really enjoyed your version of desoldering versus my own style, I've learned a few things here, love RUclips for this sort of learning and skill sharing.
I have saved a washing machine and a high quality pressure washer this week all for about $25. Using my own skills supplemented by additional information from people like yourself.
Again, thanks your video is the best on the 304 subject btw👏👏👏
Good to hear that you are saving the planet one repair at a time...
What an enlightening, charming and amusing video! Full of tips on dismantling, soldering and so on. I'm now inspired to dismantle my board and have a close look at that resistor etc. Thanks a million ohms. John
Hi John You are welcome. Save that machine from Landfill!!
Great repair video, thanks. One of the best aspects is that you take the time to repond to questions.
Thanks for watching. Hopefully save some stuff from landfill..
Amazing step by step tutorial with lesson on how to solder. Thanks a lot for this video.
You are welcome
Your message is in time!
I just went through all my old component boxes looking for a wirewound and didn't find anything suitable, so I will order a couple this weekend. I will order a couple of those chips while I am at it.
I always go through my wish lists before making such a small order, just to see if I need a £1000 oscilloscope as well (so I save on relative postage costs). Just remembered: solder braid. See? Procrastination works!
Thanks again for a brilliant video and your kindness in following up.
Best wishes from Portugal
Chris
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your repair endeavors.
Excellent video, discussion, and repair! Thank you so much for the tutorial.
You are welcome. Thanks for the comment. Please like and subscribe if you can. Thanks.
It’s nice when a repair video exactly matches my problem! Smoke escaped on my 304 in exactly the same place. (Also glad to see you fighting the clips as well 😂)
Aha!!! another machine saved. I know what exactly you mean. Glad to help. Subscribe if you can.
You obviously love your trade very much as you have quite some knowledge on the subject and you don't mind sharing it in a very calm, ' order of the day ' fashion - great stuff, - I always enjoyed watching someone who truly loves what they do at work
I appreciate that! I will take all the encouragment that I can get... and thanks for watching.
@@razenby our absolute pleasure !
Thanks alot, I was working on a dishwasher board and had no clue that resistor type was designed to blow as a fuse.
Pleased you found it useful
This videos is simply awesome, I feel a strong need to solder stuff now
Thanks, but just remember - 'Things go better with flux' Oh, and don't use a cheap soldering iron.
Just found this video and our channel. Great instructional video. Like your style.
Thanks. Please subscribe if you can.
Great video, good explanation and a good sense of humor. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
What an instructional video! With many pauses I got as far as R76, the 47Ω resistor, and sure enough, it was open. The diodes you mention seem OK, so the next test is to power it up, and see if I want to replace the chip.
During the vid I was thinking, the Yanks get straight to the point and I love them, but a Brit gives more detail. I am glad you talk to your dog, don't lament the poor answers, because if it was brighter It would not be a dog. As for cows farting in the living room, I howled! You won't get that on a Yank video. Many thanks for a good lesson, including solder wick and tackling surface-mount components, which I would never have dreamed of doing before (I might still have to change that chip).
Keep up the good work!
Chris
Hi Chris, Thanks for the comments. You will certainly have to change that chip. It is patient zero in the ensuing cascade of destruction. If you plug in without changing it then the resistor will blow again. Thanks for watching.
Thanks mate, amazing job..very useful..ordered parts already..will try next week..hope it works
Thanks. Good luck.
Nice peace of knowledge share. Thank you so much, sir
You are welcome. Like and subscribe if you can..
Thank you! I have a dead Electrolux dryer EDH97951W. I opened it and has the same problem. Now a have to order the right components. I hope I manage to fix it. 🙂
Good luck. Here to help if you need advice. We need to save as many as possible. Thanks for watching.
@@razenby After changing the ic and resistor it seemed to work OK. It started and ran but stopped after a while. It wasn't dead, but it didn't run out the entire program. 😪 So now it has unfortunately been thrown away and a new one has been bought.😐
@@johnnyeftevand6759 Likely it was mid program or a sensor wasn't connected..you may find it wasn't faulty,,
Nice, I learnt a lot from this! Another failure point of these types of PCBS with edge connectors is corrosion, which can be well hidden when it is sandwiched in its plastic shroud
Interesting. I haven't seen that before.
First class instructive video.
A real pleasure to watch.
>
Thanks
im trying this today. Hopefully picking up a 304GN this afternoon from local. Absolutely loved your 1mm wire trick, worked like a dream. As an airconditioning and electrical engineer this was a new area of expertise for me, but i am definitrly enjoying myself 😀
Save that drier... Thanks for the comment. Good luck with the repair.
@@razenby And save the landfill too. I will let you know how it goes. I think i have learnt that the 47R is a common fail safe???
IT LIVES!!!!!!!!
@@samuelripley8361 😎
Exactly the same issue I had, blown resitor and chip, diode fine. Ordering parts and hoping it will work!! :) Thank you for a very good explenation 👌
90% of them fail in that way. That chip is used all over the place and as a consequence is a huge cause of failures in domestic electronics.
@@razenby This is Gold Dust info 👍
The great thing about failures with these boards most of the time is you can look on the inside of the plastic casing and see exactly where the issue is. Even if it’s just getting overly hot. Something that really helps us before you destiny of it having a few different wave links of ultraviolet light is super useful. Now that you can get cheap deep UVC LEDs, add that to a standard three and 65 nano meter LED flashlight used to look for dog piss… And you’ll be amazed with the different wave links and colors of light will show. The heat marks or shit stains on the plastic and boards might be very late sometimes, but having different colors of light just makes them so easy to see. Almost like on those TV shows where they’ll show blood spatter with a black light. Which absolutely does not work like that show but still. I also have wave links ranging the entire spectrum and there have been times where they come in handy. Not to mention how well they pick up things like electrolyte leakage, and amplify the visible characteristics of heated and warmed parts. Steam also helps a lot. I know that shouldn’t really be used with boards but I use steam from an ultrasonic cleaner that is not water basin that evaporates really quickly but water-based stain would be fine as long as the board is just dried out really good afterwards. The steam settles differently and refracts the light differently amplifying interesting areas by orders of magnitude. Obviously this is just a quick little trick you can use it’s no way to actually troubleshoot a board but within 30 seconds of popping something apart he can get you in the right area so quickly. It’s just some thing I have found useful personally but I am half retarded so if I had real trouble shooting skills I probably wouldn’t rely on silly stuff like that … I need all the help I can get 😂
I see over 100 of those boards per year. Exactly the same obviously populated a bit differently but what is totally different was the plastic housing and button can figuration. Must be a UK thing the cars out of the thousand or so boards I’ve seen in the last decade out of washers and dryer‘s… I’ve never seen a cantilevered button configurational like that. “Kind of elegant but a bit over engineered.” Sounds about like how Americans view the rest of the UK 😁 no malicious intent… I love it over there.
I’m always proud when I finish up and have a dozen screws left over. That means I must of been smarter than the engineers.😬 kidding obviously
Remember that little power saving vice you tore down in another video? That had a little box of sand inside that was supposed to look like a PFC capacitor. You silly brunettes… That’s how we really economized and made our power generation technology so much more carbon neutral. Each and every hydroelectric or nuclear plant United States they just have a few of those plugged in on the output lines. 😂😂😂😂 problem solved
I don’t have a good cell service right now so I’m watching this on the lowest resolution setting. So I couldn’t make out the cracks in that resistor but super good eyes for spotting that because I can imagine they were nearly invisible.
Thanks for the comment. The plant that I ran had 30 repair engineers and they used to dive in with the scope when I could peer over their shoulder and tell then that a component was missing, reversed or broken. Having a really good look and a think before embarking on circuit level troubleshooting usually saves hours . I adapt my opticians prescription and get eyeglasses made to my own specification. When I am wearing them I can see close up like a 10 year old with 20-20 vision. When I take them off I cant event read my watch!!!!
Dear Mr Magic Smoke,
Bravo to you for a great video. Very informative, educational and keeping us smiling with some amusing side-stories.
I just dismantled my AEG washing machine to get the motor out because I thought it would be the brushes (error codes E51 & EF5). Turns out there is black smoke near the LNK364GN chip which is right next to a somewhat blackened E47X 1551 coil with 5 legs. Will try to send a picture if youtube permits. Anyhow, now I need to decide whether to buy a whole new/used PCB (which might need configuration) or try to change some components.... Your video is useful to help decide this, so thanks for leading the battle to help beat programmed obsolescence & prevent stuff piling up in landfills and/or being burnt by the empoverished in developing countries to extract the gold & copper, etc.
Thanks. The coils don't usually fail just the LNK364GN and the series resistor. I have the chips in stock.
@@razenby Ok. Great. Could I perhaps send you some pics e.g. by email or WhatsApp in case you think other components nearby might also need to be replaced at the same time? The area of the black smoke was some 2x3cm on the underside of the PCB. (Should I wipe that all away before taking pics?) The machine stopped 7minutes into a 10min spin cycle with an electrical smoke kind of smell. The red LED programme selection panel all appears to work fine, but then nothing happens when we press the start button. I have a soldering iron from the 1980/1990s and could have a go as you suggested, though will need to learn to test components first with my new multimeter I suppose to see which are bad.
As I say, I'm still weighing up whether to change the whole PCB.... Any thoughts would be welcomed.
@@rakmobrakmob749 Sure ark.mail@gmx.com send your address ill post you the bits.
@@razenby also your tips on which soldering iron is very helpful. I tried with my old 15W soldering iron from my youth and it was not very successful. I've now bought a 60W @460C & a 100W @500C, one of which will hopefully work better.
Thank you great video enabled me to fix my tumble drier 😎🤘
No problem. Remember to subscribe. Thanks.
Ok, i'm following u for a while. Learned a lot. No comments does not mean u are doing it wrong :) I watch and enjoy. Please keep the audio repair video's coming. Thats where my interests are. Bose, JBL, Poweramps maybe ? Greetz from Belgium !
I appreciate that!
really helpful thank you enabled me to fix a very similar Bosch model using a TNY264 chip (i guess similar) exectly same fault with resistor too. I replaced the 450v cap at the same time (but I think it was okay) great help - much appreciated
Great to hear! Another machine saved and in turn the a little bit of the planet . Thanks for watching.
Excellent technique 👌
Thanks for watching.
Thank you. It helped to fix my dryer
You are welcome. Another appliance saved! Please remember to like and subscribe. Thanks.
Cracking tutorial, i like the wire cage keeping the solder molten, sneaky :-D
Hopefully that machine is still working.
Now i'm hopeing my bosch serie 4 washing machine does not have a crappy pwm chip.
Thanks. All PWM chips are crappy but some are crappier than others!!
Nice soldering skills 😊
I blame my tools!!! It is easy if you have a very good iron.. The Weller is expensive but it is the best by far.
Great work. Real engineering here.
Thanks for watching.
I found a capacitor body around 10m from a water pump one day. Realised where it had come from when we tried to turn the pump on.
They do that!! I got hit in the chest by a large smoothing cap can on a Philips G11 television I was fixing. It knocked me of my stool and as I fell backwards my foot caught the CRT board and broke the neck. It left a big bruise. Thanks for watching.
This is wild! I’m sitting here with a similar board (almost identical just some color differences on components) in front of me that I just removed from my AEG tumble dryer that is completely dead, it act as the plug is not connected, totally dead. I was looking for schematics on google and this video popped up. As you show the chip that has blown, I look closer on my chip, and what do you know! It’s melted almost at the same location as yours, there are a small amount of residue on the same spot and it has a few melted spots on top just like yours! I then locate the resistor and measure it, open circuit…
Seems like my board failed the EXACT same way! This is crazy..
A friend of mine had the same happen to her’s, and she changed a control board she said. It wasn’t that expensive but this was a few years ago and it’s now expensive..
I’m gonna aren’t to fix this my self, just to see if it will work.
Would be really awsome if this fixed it😄 Btw, is there a better chip I should look for? (I have gotten to the 15:22 mark in the video so you might mention it, but I just got so exited!!)
Edit:
I just checked with my supplier (Elfa Distrelec), and they have a LNK304PN, and my board has a LNK304GN, what is the difference?
And i can only find a 47R 10% resistor at 17w, i guess thats to much if yours was 3w..? Mine does not say anything about watt..
Thanks for watching. Yes, it is really schoolboy power supply design worthy of a smart light bulb rather than an expensive domestic appliance! The poor reliability would be obvious to even a half-competent design engineer. I conclude that they know and don't care. The chip manufacturer (Power Integrations) has a huge amount of Landfill on their hands. This chip is used and fails in a very wide range of domestic products. Make sure you buy a fusible wire wound resistor and not a standard one. A standard one would constitute a fire hazard. You need the GN part as the PN is a SOIC package which is much smaller than the GN.
@@razenby Thanks for the answer! I remember what you said about firehazard so i specifically looked for a wirewond resistor👍 But i found several auctions on ebay selling the chip and a "normal" metal resistor together.. That's not good.. Im sure many people have bought it not knowing about it.
But i guess the way they look gives them off as proper wirewond resistors. The one i bought looked alot like the one on the board in term of color and surface. Think i bought several, so i might crack one open just to verify. hehe
@@Alpejohn They are fusible wirewound resistors that have a volatile coating inside that explodes during massive overload. Very special. Made by Bournes
Exact same thing on my zannusi. This video helped out thanks. I hate buying new stuff. ta. I presume the right resistor is a wire wound one.
The correct resistor is a Bournes Fusible Wire-Wound resistor. Designed as a resistor with volatile coating under the outer coating that causes the resistor to explode instead of getting red-hot.
@@razenby cheers i just fixed it. you've saved me a couple of hundred quid. Still struggling to get the board in the facia though lol
Just found this video after my old washing machine gave up with exactly the problem you said. No power to the display, just poof, worked the night before nothing the next day.
Obviously being a family we needed a new machine fairly quick, but I've kept the old one because I wanted to see if I could repair it, after already replacing the drum that failed.
Anyway, the chip I have is a LNK364GN, but after a quick clean up, as there was no noticeable sign of an explosion, getting my mobile camera out and zooming right in, I notice a very small crack in the surface. So highly likely a blown chip.
I couldn't get the same chip number exactly, but got the next model up which should work based on docs.
Anyway, don't have a hot air station, and don't want to cut the chip as it's so tight, but I saw your copper wire trick, and that looks like the way I'm going to try lifting this chip. It's in a tight spot, so will have to be careful.
And will check the green resistor too, along with a few other components that look like they are on the circuit, or close by.
If I can get it repaired and working, I'll let you know, but thanks for a very useful and helpful video.
You are welcome. Good luck with the fix.
Invaluable - thanks :-)
Very welcome!
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
No problem. Subsrcibe if you can. Thanks.
Well, I have to say I've been doing this for 40 years and I also made a video 10 years ago on this ruclips.net/video/7KmnizwuUEM/видео.html I take my hat off to you. Your filming of the repair is much better than mine and I would estimate just in the UK over 10,000 tumble dryers from AEG Zanussi Electrolux and John Lewis have been scrapped because of this fault. Or the other common one is the relay goes open circuit. Keep up the good work and help beat built-in obsolescence. By the way the predominant reason these boards fail on a regular basis, they are normally plugged into a poor power supply extension leads, spur sockets overloaded are the common problem I see this causes a voltage drop to the board, ware are you to in the uk
Thanks for watching. They just fail spontaneously these chips are a weak and are not adequately protected by the filtering. Have a look at a Miela or Siemens controller and see the additional filtering on the HV input side. It is no mystery as the power supply is just too rudimentary and the UK mains voltage is too high. A lot of the testing and product design and testing is done at 230VAC mains..... Real world power supply ages the switching FET until eventually it breaks down.
well done
Cheers.
Nice bro
Thanks
Great instructional video, with a decent resolution which you can see clearly.
I had a dead bosch dishwasher, did the snip legs off and clean up method, also the wirewound was blown, much easier to do that.
Assembled and tested all working ok now 😊
What make, model of soldering iron do you recommend? Mine needs replacing
Thanks very much
Good job. If you do a lot of soldering then your very best bet is to buy a second hand professional Weller soldering iron station with a WSP90 iron. It makes soldering very easy and has very accurate temperature control. The element is silver and the tips are silver so there is great thermal coupling between the element and tip - as soon as the heat is being conducted away the iron can deliver the and heat the job. It is a lifetime investment. You can but all the bits of the iron separately and spares are cheap. However they are very reliable. If you see a second hand one - it may look beaten up but they will probably work.
Greetings from OZ
Thanks. Hello from UK. Get ready for CANZUK once we've got these European jokers off our back!!
From my experience any of the red dark amber colored resistors are fire retardant or somewhat resistant to heat. Also you’ll find these ceramic feeling Matt black type I guess so the heat can radiate away.
Also they’ll sometimes have those really long square tight legs so that they can be held off of the board… But the body of the resistor themselves looks just like any standard resistor.
They make them bigger by 50% or more to make up for heat not only internal but mainly absorbing less and radiating more external source heat. and give a little more wiggle room. Dale/vishaydating back as far as I can remember and it’s what you would find in furnaces and other areas that needed resistors that had an outer and inner characteristic more resistant to heat. Also a lot of the Milspec and Aerospace grade stuff was flame retardant and resistant as a standard feature. You can still buy a lot of that really high grade aerospace stuff huge box lots of it online. It’s usually pretty much the same with a few more features and obviously goldplated legs usually
Thanks for the comment. Many wire wound low value resistors act as both a fuse and fuse - otherwise known as fusible resistors. The specs for these are very sketchy and they don't perform as a fuse anywhere near as effectively as a
real fuse. They are a compromise but better than nothing at all.
thank you
You are welcome
Enjoyed that one blue... when will you be doing the magic smoke 💨 on that resistor?
Soon
Excellent and very instructive video. But I'm interested in what kind of camera you use. The zoom is phenomenal. Is that a phone? Thank you for your reply.
Sony HDR-CX900
Excellent video, very informative :)
I have an AEG TN95570 dryer with the same fault. The dryer has a small display on the controller, but is probably very similar. Do you know if this fix applies to that model as well?
Probably, Most models use the same or a close variant of the is controller with the same bad soldering issues.
Brilliant video, thank you. My Zanussi board is identical and has the same scorch mark and blown resistor. Do you have an ebay site or can you recommend where is best to order the 304 and resistor from? Thanks again!
Send me your address I have the resistor and chip in stock. ark.mail@gmx.com
Great video, very helpful. Replaced chip and resistor, but frustratingly, still dead! Chip gets warm though, so clearly drawing current - any ideas?
Are you getting any DC voltage on the low voltage electronics? If it is still dead then you will need a multimeter to debug it, Check the diodes on the HV side. Remember to disconnect from power and discharge the HV reservoir capacitor before touching anything. Check D4, D10 (if fitted), the S)T-23 diode (6BW) to the left of R79 and you solder joints for bridges and dry joints!!!
Great video, I have dead aeg tumble dryer with a very similar board.
I replaced the LNK chip as it was obviously blown but it did not fix the issue. On closer inspection a similar wire wound resister has cracked and blown but I cannot find a replacement. The resistor looks to be 4.9M ohm 1% with similar dimensions to the one you replaced do you have any idea where I can get a replacement or do you have those in stock too?
4.9M Ohms is a bit of an odd value, There is nothing in the circuit that would need such a high value. Send a picture of it to ark.mail@gmx.com
@@razenby thanks for your fast response I have sent you the picture as requested.
I have a draper 40w that is doing the job easily. Going to stock up on some extra items though. Can you recommend a type/size of solder wire?
0.5mm 60/40 Sn/Pb by Qualtec Loctite/Multicore is good for general use, not to tick for small components and not too thing for large solder joints. Thanks for watching.
Amazing info thanks for this, hopefully this will enable me to stop mine from going to landfill too! You say in the video that we can get the parts from your ebay store - do you have a link for that somewhere? I'm going to start searching for a magic smoke store! now i just need to see f my soldering iron is up to the job!
Thanks. Do you need the resistor and LNK Chip? I think the listing ended. I'll list them later on eBay. and let you know.
Superb narration and filming - incredibly helpful and now I know what's wrong with my pcb. I'm after the resistor and LNK304GN ... what ohm value did you settle on for the resistor? Have you any of these components in stock, and if so, how can I buy them from you?
Regards, Mike
Thanks Mike. The resistor is 3W 47R in stock, LNK304GN in stock. Email me at ark.mail@gmx.com and I will mail then to you. The office ships every day. Is your resistor blown (that is a good sign). It'll be whatever they cost me plus postage.
@@razenby Cheers for a super fast reply ... yep the resistor's fubar and there's splatters near the LNK. On the upside, the diode's OK. I'll email you after dinner. Cheers, Mike
okydoky
@@razenby hello sir I am from UAE I Can't find resistor here which value resistant you are fixing
I have exactly the same issue and it was really helpful (and entertaining) to see this video. You mentioned that you have parts available and I'd love to be able to purchase the 47ohm resistor and the Power Integrations chip from you. Is this still possible?
Yes, sorry for late replay - I was on vacation. ark.mail@gmx.com
Just to add, I could start removing smds to try to identify short but where would I start?, are there weak links/parts that are prone to failure in low voltage side, no oscilloscope so cannot test transformer or lnk output. Thanks
It is unusual to the fault to be due to component failure on the low voltage side. Invariably it is the Off-line buck regulator circuit that fails. Have you checked the components on the HV power supply side?
Very good explanation. I have a question: Locally in Portugal I only find 47R bobinated 3W but rated 100v. Can I use this or better to order online something like ULW3-47RJA1, rated 350V ?
The correct part is a Bourns 2W 47 Ohm Fusible resistor. Search/ buy Bourns part number:
FW20A47R0JACT Good luck. Please subscribe to the channel if you can.
@@razenby Thank you. I end up buying a 47R 2W fused resistor but the coating is rated more (600V). It will arrive next week in the shop. To buy the wired one, i would have to to spend 20€ in delivery. I will post the news. Already subscribed.
@@americorio3294 Thanks, Maybe I should open an online store to enable everyone to get the part kits for repair.
Great video ,
the AEG lavatherm 55540 dryer was defective, it didn't work anymore, not a single light was on.
On advice replace IC LNK304GN and also a resistor of 100 ohm ,and all lights light up again, but then also all lights.
it seems that the machine must first be reset (clear error codes) and then it works again.
I can't find the correct procedure on the internet unfortunately, but many procedures of other types (which have a small display)
Do you perhaps know the key combinations for this type?
Sorry, I don't. Did you test it correctly connected back in the machine?
Hi thanks for the great video - I have a Zanussi washing machine - no power checked the 47ohm resistor and it was O/C changed it O/C again, found your video and changed the LNK304 and now I have power😃 the leds are on but after 10 or 20 seconds they all go off again and come back after 30 secs or so, looks like something is cutting out, do you have any further videos to help me go deeper? thanks keep up the great work ! doubleAA
Have you tried it back in situ - all plugged in?
@@razenby Yes all plugged in, took a photo before disassembly so all connectors are in the correct place - thanks
great video - I am about to inspect my suddenly non-functional AEG and was wondering if you still had the shop? - I can't find you on ebay
I have the components if you need some. Inspect it first.
@@razenby Hey Magic - Thanks for the quick reply and for doing what you do. I pulled the machine out and it turns out the mains socket was the problem - which is annoying because I was looking for an excuse to buy a new soldering iron! this video is great!
Hello
I am looking at your video 'AEG Tubmle Drier Dead Controller Repair and test'. It is fantastic and I will try this to see if I can repair my AEG dryer control unit. At 38 seconds you mention a video about removing the panel. Do you have a link for that video?
Regards
Sorry, I don't think I ever uploaded that video.
@@razenby No problem, that is the easiest part of solving this issue. Thanks again for the repair & test video.
Nice work I'm interested in fixing motherboards for appliances I fixed a GE motherboard for a washing machine it was a bad triac that controled the lock lid I'm sure you know the advantages of using an nice flux chip quick etc..
Cheers. It is a noble thing to save an appliance from the dump and so called 'recycling'
Hello @Magic Smoke,
Very nice video. Thank you for sharing this knowledge. In my Electrolux dryer I had exactly same issue (blown LNK586GG and resistor) but after replacement both elements the controlled is still dead. I also check elements around LNK like diod and capacitor but everything looks fine. Could you please guide me what to check next? I measure LNK under voltage and there is only 320V DC on pin 4, pin 1 and 2 0V
The best bet is too pull up the datasheet for the LNKxxx chip. The application circuit is there. Take a look at it and makes sure all the associated components are OK and that none of the PCB tracking has been blown open circuit. If you can't see like a teen with 2020 vision then get a magnifier. I know it sound glib but the number 'carefully inspected' things that have brought to me that have bad solder is beyond a joke. If you cant see then you cant inspect therefore you cant repair.
@@razenby Hello, thank you for your answer, but actually I'm using microscope and check solder joints was one of the first step that I've done.
@@razenby I ordered LNK586GG from another source and dryier start working as it should...
Hello great tutorial,
I replaced lnk chip and 47ohm resistor on dead identical board and it ran for several months, then burning smell and dead again. There was a 5mm hole burned through the board above the lnk chip viewed from underside, trace from drain was destroyed.
I connected drain to one side of transformer with wire and new diode, cathode to bottom of 100k resistor furthest from transformer??, not 100% if right
Fitted new lnk chip and 47 ohm resistor, at power on no led or beep, and L3 inductor gets hot, indicating to me a short on secondary. Can you possibly make any suggestions, are my trace repairs right?, any help very appreciated.
A secondary short would not cause the Buck inductor to overheat as a working LNK chip automatically detect and limits the overcurrent on the secondary side.. I suspect you still have a fault on the mains power supply.
Thank you for helping, to just seek your help one more time please.
Because there was a hole burned through the board just at the output of the LNK chip taking the trace at drain with it, I could do with your help with the high voltage trace layout . I have been looking for a schematic everywhere and forums to no avail.
Pausing your video at 8.25
1 Is the output of LNK connected directly to one side of transformer (anode of D5 trace)
2 Is the cathode of D5 connected to the cathode of TRSB1 (100k resistor on mine)
Again any help/suggestions much appreciated
Thanks for the video, very clear. I have a similar controller board that has stopped working. But I think the LNK304GN is ok. There is a lot of soot around the transformer. My buck coil (transformer) looks a bit different to the one on your board but I think it's doing a similar thing. I'm having trouble identifying it for a replacement part. It's markings are E47 x 1116. Any idea what those numbers mean??
If you see a LNK304GN then change it. Hoping that it is good wont save you. The 304 may have damaged coil. Are you sure the soot is coming from the coil and not jetted out of the side of the 304?
@@razenby Thanks for the reply. It's possible the soot is coming from the 304 but that's sitting on the underside of my board and most of the black soot is on the top - how far does it travel? I do have a Triac that's blown (for the circulation pump), but that's some distance away. The soot on my board looks just like this one - www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3726567.html - mostly around the transformer. The 304 is sitting on the reverse of the board just under the big resistor and diode. The wire wound resistor on my board is ok. Maybe I will check the transformer by removing it and measuring its coils?
@@fluxobjects In the picture it looks to me to be fine dust attracted by the electric field on the HV side of the board. Get some iso-propyl alcohol and give the board a good clean and then look for the scarring on the components.
@@razenby Ok. Thanks. I'll do that.
in aeg electrolux if voltage of 7 volt falls to 6.2 volt and all leds blinking do you know what cn be caused ?
I am not aware of a 7 volt rail on this controller...
Hi your video is helping me a lot, but I'm wondering my washing machine is turning of completely after water level device clicks when there is enough water, like it goes some short circuit. After I remove water from machine it goes back on on its own, display is running I can choose programs etc. Water level device is OK I checked it with specs and tested with multymeter, it do what is should do. On the board there is no smoke no damaged components everything is nice and tidy, can it be damaged board even if everything else is working including a display? Thanks.
Hi, Which LEDs are on or flashing when this happens? When you say short circuit does the machine blows the fuse or trips the circuit breaker? If you select a cold rinse program does this happen then?
@@razenby I solved it thanks to you, I was looking for short circuit. It was one, signaling wire from temperature sensor were touching heater, melted and short those two wires together, I just cut off the damaged wire, reconnected connectors (also checked rest of the wires for damage) and now it is working as new, no problems at all. Thank you so much for the help.
Brilliant! Thanks for this. After watching, I opened my dryer up and it was exactly this problem. Ordered the parts online (2 euro plus postage) and did the fix easily. Works a treat.
You mention looking at your other video to see how to get at the board, but I couldn't find it in your videos, so if anybody else is looking, here's a Dutch guy getting the card out:
ruclips.net/video/ZUQ7BlK2YCo/видео.html
Great Job.
What happened to your third installment of the Bose solo videos?
Half of it is in the can. I am waiting to borrow a suite of the correct development software for the DSP. It isn't cheap. I still have to work out which chip has been branded as a Bose custom part.
@@razenby shame, I've got a Bose Solo here with an intermittent fault whereby sometimes the unit won't enter or exit standby mode. Or, won't enter standby most on first power up. I've added extra decoupling to the 1.8v and 3.3v rails next to the DSP chip which seems to have helped. Got some new crystals on order too as I suspect there's an instability somewhere on the low voltage side which is leading to the DSP to not initialise correctly or just crash. Quite interested to see what your findings were.
Hello. I'm from Australia with an Electrolux dryer edv505. It all seems to work. Except no heat. People seem to swap the pcb to fix... Any idea what could cause it not to heat?
Bad wiring crimp-look for blackened ones.
Thermal trip (internal) had tripped due to over-temperature condition. (Some have manual rset)
Heating element open circuit (failed)
Bad thermistor / temperature thermistor sensor(s) (NTC)
Heater relay on control board failed.
@@razenby thank you
@@razenby hi. Thanks. I took my pcb out and brought to a friend who has same dryer. Plugged in and also only blew cold.. Would I be able to send you a photo of the board? (not sure if it's possible to diagnose by sight. But it looks good to me, me being non electrical skilled)
@@razenby actually I'm watching your zanussi video... If I short the "heater" points would that keep it on heat always? (I only turn on in 30min blocks)
Next to my LNK364GN chip, I have de-soldered by mistake the small capacitor (I think it would be equivalent to "C25" in this video - see video at 9min 58sec).
Could anyone help by suggesting what value of capacitor I should use to replace it (e.g. "10nF 50v 10%" or similar?) so I can buy a replacement?
This is on a circuit board for an AEG washing machine (AEG model number = L63470FL, product number = 91453401401, part number of the circuit board = 973914534014019).
I cannot buy a whole new circuit board right now because there seems to be a supply shortage, so I am forced to try to fix this.
OK, for all you intrepid repairers out there, please remember that the product designers mostly copy their schematics from the manufacturer's datasheet. Warts and all. So you can get a pretty good idea by studying the datasheet (link below). In the datasheet you can see that in the example schematic that Pin 3 of the device (BP) is connected to a 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic to generate the internal DC supply internal CCT and FET drive. So yours was a good good one!! Good luck. Pls remember to like and subscribe. MS
Datasheet link: www.farnell.com/datasheets/2059771.pdf?_ga=2.260221647.316122949.1496130365-1705634499.1495448867 )
@@razenby That's super. Thanks very much for your reply. So based on the datasheets for the LNK364GN & LNK364GN-TL, it seems that I can also use a 100nF 50V multi-layer ceramic capacitor for connection to the "Bypass (BP)" pin. Additionally, from the diagrams on the datasheets we see that all the "Source (S)" pins are to be connected together, so I assume that the short circuit of solder that I've inadvertently created between some of these "Source (S)" legs doesn't make any difference. Btw - I liked and subscribed quite a while ago already. It's great to have your support to help keep all this electrical equipment out of landfill sites and beat what some might describe as programmed obsolescence.
hi , where can i buy the 2 components the chip and the resistor to do the repair,
thanks,
brian
Which components do you need?
@@razenby hi magic smoke, I have had trouble getting in touch , I need both components, the chip and the resistor45r. Thank you.
Brian.
Hi can someone link the video of the disassembly. I can find it. Thanks
Have a look a look at this ruclips.net/video/dRHNqjFiq4Q/видео.html and let me know if it helps.
Hello. I had a dead dryer and I managed to get it powered by replacing the LNK. But now I get EH0 error. Ive sent you an email as well. Please give some hints why this error might be happening.
EHO is a power condition error. It is sensing (maybe erroneously) that the mains voltage is not correct. Check all connections to the controller are correct. Clean the edge fingers on the board and inspect all crimps and wiring. It may be bad connection somewhere. Bad mains plug, bad mains impedance (poor house wiring) or running on an extension lead can cause this. Otherwise you may still have a fault or a bad relay or bad solder joint in the AC power tracks on your controller on your controller. Inspect very carefully.
I got it working finally! Did two main things 1) touched up some solder joints which seemed ok but werent as perfect as the rest. 2) removed my old install of the lnk364gn and cleaned up. Lost one more pad in the process. But eventually i used a 0.6mm enameled copper wire to short the Source pins of the lnk n also to connect the bypass cap between pin 4 n pin 2. Assembled everything n now no EH0 error! Drum turns fine everytime!!
Thanks a lot for your great videos n help otherwise!
It is satisfying to know that another unit is saved. Please remember to like and subscribe..
Hi there. Do you offer a repair service? I have a problem with my AEG dryer board with drum only rotating in one direction. Can you provide email address. Thanks
Hi Susan, sorry no I don't have time due to other commitments. The problem is likely to be a faulty relay on the controller.
Anyone know whcih relay on this board causes the E62 fault?
E62 is the power relay or blown heater element. In my experience it is much more common for the heater element to fail. It is easy enough to find out which one it is by tracing the series back from the heating element to the plug that connects to the controller and then check to which relay the traces connect to from the corresponding socket. The element itself should read in the range of a few tens of ohms across it's power connections and on your highest ohms range on your multi-meter, you should get no conductivity between the power connections and the machine chassis.
@@razenby Very much appreciate you explaining as you go along, thanks
@@mickpatel9504 My pleasure
I have repaired a dead bord, but now I have error E70 and can't reset, any suggestions?
You probably have the NTC temperature sensor plugged into the wrong port. (easily done) Check and also check the wiring loom to the heater sensors.
You Are right. It runs now 👍
@@peterchr.warncke1976 Whoohoo!! Good job. Don't forget to subscribe!
Question.. Next to the LNK chip is a NPN smd transistor and in your video its marked Q4 see: ruclips.net/video/muZyKkXTbac/видео.html that one is bad in my case, it's marked C6t others have reported it marked B6t and yours 6Bw, what is it? there are 2 more on this board (Q5+Q6) and measuring the good ones I could only make out its NPN based. Also the "figured-out" schematics you can find online don't mention this transistor. Info about that ? anyone ?
Device code 6B is ON Semi BC817-40LT1G NPN Transistor any SOT-23 BC817 will work. The question is why is it blown?
@@razenby Thanks for that needed info. First the obvious problem (LNK304 was blown + resistor), instead of fixing that (no parts) I tried in a stupid attempt to bypass the LNK and feed it with buck converter but that didn't work (prob. fried the transistor in that attempt) Eventually replaced the LNK and of Corse now that did not work and found out that the transistor is defect. The selector also feels weird/loose so its my last attempt in fixing this dryer.
i like this kinda stuff! free dryer! why throw away! ive never had to buy a tumble dryer once, always picked up some free. now im possibly facing a similar issue with its control board, im not too familiar with electronics though.
Thanks. Get your soldering iron out.. It is bound to be a 50 cent component.. Invariably one can spot whats is wrong using simple observational skills . Why has that component got the side blown out of it? /what's that crack on the soldered pin?/why connector is brown?/Why is the casing on that component is cracked/shit the wire has dropped off etc.. ... Then the problem becomes a mechanical process - i.e. soldering. ....I My whole extended family has lovely tumble dryers bought from the man who collects them for the council. The mechanical parts on these units is hardly used and yet they are off to the landfill..
Oh come on now give the poor Chinese a break. 😂 I mean obviously not completely but just a little bit.
They’re locked in a room for $0.15 a day with American designers and businessmen breathing down their neck ….pressuring them to save another half penny per thousand parts this week. I understand their culture is completely different and more of a survivalist dog eat dog type thing. Which does not bode well for running businesses with the utmost morality.
But if the CCP ruled the UK or the United States …..we might live a bit more desperately also. From my experience shitty manufacturing, design, and engineering can be found everywhere on the globe. But there’s a good chance I’m just too daft to realize the truth …..so pound of salt and all that…
Regarding Having conversations with the family dog… I always try to keep a few friendly (and not so friendly)animals in and around my workshop. But it’s too bad for me that most of what they say flies right over my head. They are far intellectually superior for the most part.
You might end up regretting asking for comments as I make my rounds throughout your videos. 😁
Love the channel it really feels a niche for in-depth troubleshooting and explaining that just really isn’t that prevalent on RUclips
I have no problem going easy on honest manufacturers with integrity. It is just the poorly designed products that end landfill and willful negligence to ecology that I find revolting...