Great video. I am glad to see British households have mothers and offspring arguing as well. The door jack is a brilliant idea (I am going to steal that one). That door looks great ! Ingenuity ,tenacity and PATIENCE. Great work Charlie.
Charlie, I’m very glad you didn’t just buy a new door because this video will be tremendously helpful in my upcoming door hanging. Lots of clever tips and tricks too. Thankyou.
Great video! I know it's five years old, but still totally relevant. I admire your patience in perfecting the fit of the door. People may well say you should just buy a new door, but you would still have to adjust it for the wonky frame, which was the main skill you demonstrated and passed on in this video. Thanks!
I used to do my door hinges that with a hammer and chisel for years…. Finally bought a trim router and hinge template- only regret is not doing it sooner! Great video!!
Great video"s, liking the close up shots. These old house problems can cause sleepless nights but, after watching you sort the problems out gives us the confidence to use power tools and sort angles out and saving money is good by me. Magic.
Thanks David, I really appreciate that. Yes lots of problems with old houses but nothing insurmountable and I'd sooner tackle old house problems than the huge problems I hear about from people with new builds 👍
Hi charlie you might not know this but a little tip for you when your rebating out the hinges. I usually run a stanley blade to breakup the fibres before getting the chisels out. End up with a much neater finish. Very good video though keep up the good work 👍🏼
Wow! I’ve learned a bit of basic carpentry over the years, but I’ve never heard to adjust the saw blade to just below the depth needed to cut the wood. I will definitely remember this tip. Thank you!
Excellent work, I know people think I’m mad but fitting doors to odd openings is one of my favourite things after fitting kitchens to odd shaped rooms, love a challenge 😎👍
Good attempt for a DIYer but quite a few things I picked up on when it comes to hanging doors from a professional point of view who hangs doors for a living as a professional carpenter. You never have a square edge on the hinge side or closing side of a door. You always plane a bevel on the edges of a door to prevent the door from binding and allow a tight fit on the closing side. Id of scribed the door to the frame rather than relying on the frame to be straight but out of level if the frame is as old as it looks. Always stand your door up on its side to plane edges as it’s dangerous to plane the door the way you were. Especially the planing of the filler strip at the bottom of the door. Your fingers are right there if you slipped. I understand it’s a DIY approach but health and safety is a must if sharing knowledge with other DIY enthusiasts using power tools that can cause serious injury. Sorry if it sounds like a rant, honestly it’s not. I give you praise for sharing your knowledge with others but help and guidance from others to help improve I think is constructive.
Tom Wills, I completely agree. I’ve used a plane like that in the past and it’s not a good idea. It’s harder to plane a level edge as you have less control and it’s harder to see if it’s perpendicular and yeah it’ can be dangerous as well. Also can buy air wedges for £9 which give you a huge amount of adjustment when lining up the door and they hold it in the same position while marking the top and bottom hinge recess without having to keep your foot on a wedge. If you’re putting out content I think it first of all good to learn the professional way of doing things first. This comment also hasn’t been made in malice. Charlie I love your channel and have just hung a tv on a plasterboard wall using the geefix fixings after seeing your video on this. Keep up the good work. We learn together. Tom
Just bought two one-over-three panel doors for one-penny plus a fiver of diesel to collect! That's something for the weekend sir! Pass me the plane and we're off to fit a door.
Very helpful and well made demonstration, lots of useful little tips here. Fitting a door must be top of the list of jobs that people are flippant about but in truth it's actually not as easy to do as you think- certainly not and do a good job. Two key points as ever; taking your time and having the right tools. From my experience it might be worth mentioning to take care when planing the edges of a door because depending how it's made if you plane outwards towards the corners (usually if you're planing the top or bottom) you might end up splitting the wood. As ever, take your time and think everything through first! Thanks for a great video.
Just about to purchase an older house and ive been binging on your great videos for the last 2 months. Been honing my DIY skills for the last 10 years so im going to try and tackle the doors when im in. Something ive never tried before
When I hang doors I usually use 2p coin for the gap on the head of the door, I also check the old door frame with a straight edge to see it's bowed as you could end up with a larger gap than you wanted.
Thank you! Your video was exactly what I was looking for!!. I got new doors off marketplace for next to nothing, but they didn't line up. Now that I watched your video I am good to go!! Cheers mate!
There is also a template kit for hinges called milescraft 150 sold at lowes stores that can router 3" & 3-1/2" hinges on door edges & on door jambs the kit comes with a 1/2" bearing router bit & the templates are for 1/4" & 5/8" round hinges very pleased with the kit..
I'm just about to tackle a similar job on an internal door, so thanks for this video. Feeling a lot more confident than I did half an hour ago (!) Thanks Charlie
Fixing the hinges to the frame first and matching the door in the frame makes SO much more sense. How do you plane true and level with out the electric planner tilting or dropping down at the ends. Great production technique - thank you
MA1973 Thanks mate. With the plane, this isn't very helpful but it's really just down to experience, the more you use it the better you get. I used to plane with the wood vertical but even though it's easier to plane square with the wood on its end, you get no sense of how close to the line you're planing when you do it that way. So planning horizontal is better but it's more difficult to get your planning square. You just have to hold the plane as square as you can, maybe start with it on a very fine setting so you're not removing too much, and regularly check how you're getting on. You get a feel for it after a while. It's difficult to describe, but when you get to the end, you almost have to keep the plane level with your hand, or almost raise it off the wood if that makes sense, so that it doesn't sink down and take off more than it should as it leaves the wood 🤔
Extremely interesting insight Charlie. Well done and great video. I am about to cut my bedroom door vertically straight down the middle to create a French style opening door. I will be reversing my door frame too. The reason for this is because my apartment bedroom is very small and to get any decent sized wardrobe to fit, I knew that I would have to make changes to the door and frame itself. As usual Charlie, keep up the good work and I cannot wait to see your new circular saw. By the way, love your door lifter!
Nice work. I admire your patient hinge work, but i gotta tell ya, i just bought the ryobi hinge kit, and it is BEAUTIFUL (and quick once u dial in the depth). You DO need a router tho. But, if you do alot of doors, it saves tons of time. Probably a hinge in less than a minute.
Hi Charlie, great video. I hate fitting new doors to old properties, never goes quickly. One thing I do differently is use a router for rebating the hinges in, gives you a much cleaner cut on the front face of the door. Chisel round the perimeter lines as normal so the router doesn’t skip into where it shouldn’t. On another note I’m after a bit of advice. Currently renovating my front garden and I’ve built a wall with some pillars. The pillar tops have got polished concrete pyramids on. I want to paint them the same colour as I will my fence but I’m not sure what to use on them because they’re so smooth? If you could point me in a good (not too expensive) direction that would be great! Keep the great videos coming! Richard
Great video - thank you very much. I am glad that you didn't speed up some of the stuff - eg cutting out the hinge rebates & planing the edges - that other youtubers tend to speed over as it was good to see your techniques did that in real time speed.
That was very well done. Especially considering your not a joiner you showed good knowledge. better than me and i did 2 years college. little tip for you to get the clearance for the gap at the top is put a coin on top corner when setting out
Wow Charlie - amazing work. I love your patience, precision and persistence. Impressive. I feel inspired to tackle that door in the den that has been mocking me ever since I moved in. Thanks.
True up the door frame is easier and no need to go through this monkey motion every time you install a new door. Trim router for the hinges would go faster, no need for jig if careful and go slow. Set the bit height once then you could do all the doors. I found using an air wedge under the door for micro height adjustments with your foot while holding up the door for alignment so much easier. A vix bit for centering holes for those hinges handy to have around. Jawhorse as an extra hand for heavy exterior door working alone.
A gap under the door is normal for ventilation. The sides of doors don't have to be planed 90°, they are often planes on a angle to allow the door to close.
Good video again Charlie. Not sure if they were out back when you filmed this but I’ve found Winbags extremely useful for jacking up doors etc. they work via a little pump you can squash with your foot and allow very fine tuning for elevating. Godsend when fitting my pvc frame and doors to my garden gym.
Use a marking gauge instead of chisel when marking out depth of your hinges & use Stanley knife to score line for width of hinge pain in the arse old frames are like bananas well done Charlie👍
Nice work Charlie. I do hate moulded doors. Never gives you enough trimming material and when you take off too much there is not enough material to hang the hinge. I have in fact ripped out the trim materials and slotted in new timber.
When setting up a fence guide to trim a door (or worktop or similar) with a circular saw, it's better to have it arranged so that the wider side of the saw baseplate is on the fence side. That makes it much less likely that the cut will go out of the vertical with much more of the baseplate in contact. Of course, the fence guide and clamps have to the low enough so that the saw's motor housing has clearance. If the clamps are a problem, then just using a wider piece of wood or The other thing is to be careful of breakout when cutting across the grain or cutting laminate. I always stick a piece of duct tape over the ends of the cut. Maybe not so important with a door which is to be painted as filler can be used, but for an unpainted door it's particularly important.
Got to hand it to you charlie you are a clever guy ,that wedge you made to jack the door up is an excellent idea you should get that patented and make a fortune selling them to B & Q :)
Nice job! If you had bought a new door, you would have had to mess around with it to get it to fit anyway, I think that door is much better and has character too.
Hi Charlie, I've bought a nice original door to replace our current bathroom one. We have a Victorian terrace so the frame is wonky, I will follow this guide to install, thank you!
Hi You made that look easy my friend . I too have doors to fit but have no power tools yet not sure I am comfortable with all them blades going like hell. I shall watch this one a few times. Anyway Thanks
Just use horse sense, eye and ear protection. Unplug or remove battery every time you need to adjust. Hands and fingers no where near those blades. Step aside from moving blades, not directly in alignment with it. We all need to start from somewhere. BTW hand tools are more precise with practice, relaxing and a good workout.
@@CharlieDIYte at last. Someone who knows how to plane a door. I have seen many people plane a door and cut so deep that the planer grinds just about to a halt and make a mess of it because they are wanting to do it too quickly to get the job done. I'm talking about property builders and SOME DIYRS. you got the skill to plane that door sideways and slowly without making the planer sound like a very nasty angry bee or a angry yowling cat. Is that planer electronic as it has no problem deep cutting and is not quick to slow down
@@CharlieDIYte at last. Someone who knows how to plane a door. I have seen many people plane a door and cut so deep that the planer grinds just about to a halt and make a mess of it because they are wanting to do it too quickly to get the job done. I'm talking about property builders and SOME DIYRS. you got the skill to plane that door sideways and slowly without making the planer sound like a very nasty angry bee or a angry yowling cat. Is that planer electronic as it has no problem deep cutting and is not quick to slow down
Excellent vid and thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. The problem with my house is NOTHING is straight it's like working in a circus at the hall of mirrors 😂
Another tip charlie , when trimming the door to suit. Just get a pack of shims some 16th of a inch and some an 8th of an inch in thickness before trimming hold the door in the frame like as in your video. just get your 16th of an inch shim an hold it flush to the door stopper on the hinge side ,scribe a line down the door , then put the two shims together scribe the top of the door , then on the lockside just scribe a line with the 1 /8th shim. But make sure to gain another 1/16th on the hinge side for the door tonfit correctly in the frame. Its pretty complicated trying to type it all out. But use this method its alot quicker i find🙂hope this helps you out.👍🏼
Really excellent video Charlie. Very practical as opposed to all the 'perfect scenario's' that are often put on youtube. I have 7 new doors to hang but they are all walnut. I cannot paint if I make an error!! Hence what brought me here to make sure I get things right. I have done one door already and it looks fine in a frame that is parallel up to half way up then tapers out by 5mm on each side to the top!! I am very happy with the results but your tips will make the fitting of the next 6 easier. One thing I noticed was that I did the same as you... used my laser level to determine the state of the existing frame before I started. Crucial to the final result I would say. I have subscribed and will check out your other videos. I seemed to have trouble with the 25mm paddle drill. Brand new Dewalt's but seem to take while to drill the 70mm or so to fit the 57mm mortice.
Great videos, have really helped me with my first DIY refurb! Although my problem has been i have 2 x 2"4'x6"4' and one 2"5'x 6"4' door frame! Ignorantly trimmed a moulded 2"'6 down to fit the 2 foot 5 space, which didn't go well. So having to reduce the door frame space now!
Use circular saw to make all the cutting but 1mm from the line, then pass over once with planner to smooth out cut marks, much quicker and straight every time
I was thinking why doesn't he just take the trim off and square off the door frame. Then i could see the amount that it was out by so that one would of been more labour intensive than trimming the door. Ihave the exact same issue however we had the frames refitted and who did it completely bodged them worse than they were previous so now they have to be done again! Wish i had watched this video a year ago it would of given me an idea how to deal with out of square frames.
Thanks Charlie - learnt something useful tips via this video. I'm in the position of thinking about hanging 8 new oak doors in our bungalow and need as many tips as I can get. I want to do the job but something that I'm not certain about is whether to use a normal smoothing plane or a power plane when taking down the various adjustment thicknesses. If anyone has any comments or thoughts about the pros and cons I'd love to hear them. I would add that I love using my smoothing plane - it really does make me feel good - but I'm only use to small lengths of wood. I'm concerned that taking, say 2mm, of the side of a door, especially a hardwood door, might be a different job and that a power plane would be better. Open to advice!
A good power plane is far easiest - with tungsten carbide tipped ('tct') blades - especially if you're talking about oak doors. By the way (and most people make this mistake - even many joiners,) it's a 'smooth' plane. It has no grooves in the soleplate; as a Jack plane has, hence the name.
Why didn't i put a plank of wood down and clamp it down. My beautiful door i paid £295 for is now a complete disaster as the saw ran away from me and sliced right up the door 😫😭😭😫😫😭😭😫😫 I now need to buy a new door if only I watched this video first. Thanks for the video Charlie .off I trot for a new door 🤣🤣🤣🤣
So sorry to hear that. Also make sure you set that blade to the right height - with only half a tooth poking below the door. Otherwise the saw will run out again. Good luck with the replacement. These things do happen, it's all part of the learning process 👍
03:25 we always called it "pissed" in London, not mad. First thing I said when you showed the preview was "Yeah, it's pissed, it's a Victorian door" before you even mentioned it was Victorian cottage.
Ah yes. I had a place in East Dulwich and became friends with a builder from Greenwich who basically helped me rebuild the Victorian terraced house I had. That phrase came up a lot! 👍
@@CharlieDIYte haha, glad you know it. I've only got 3 doors to trim and no space for a disk saw, had to go primitive with a tenon saw in shifts, but thanks for the vid and tips. There's something nice about Victorian houses and those quirks. I mean, sometimes it can take a while to get around to it, but once you've trimmed a door to shape or rendered something flat again, it's really satisfying compared with a new build. Glad you're enjoying it anyway!
Hiya Charlie, good job & a nice finish job good job thank you for the wood working lesson please keepem coming GL & happy D.I.Y. ING, all the best to you & your family cheers👏👏👏👏👌👍💪👊👋👋👋👋.
I thought long and hard about doing that. I decided not to, because the bed is next to the door which gives it a bit of privacy (not that that's particularly important) and on the current hinge side when you step into the corridor there's a staircase immediately to your right, so I suppose having the hinges where they are helps on the safety side. Ultimately though I think there's a strong argument for having it where you suggest.
Great video! Very helpful. Thanks. Can I ask you how come the door flames are mostly not square and need to be cutting from time to time over the years? is it because the house still settling or would it be other issues?
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I’m new to your RUclips channel Charlie but finding them really useful. I am rehanging all me doors with new ironmongery, but have an issue. The existing latches seem slightly smaller in cross section than newer replacements. I can’t use a spade drill bit as it would wander all over the place. Any tips for enlarging the opening?
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Great video. I am glad to see British households have mothers and offspring arguing as well. The door jack is a brilliant idea (I am going to steal that one). That door looks great ! Ingenuity ,tenacity and PATIENCE. Great work Charlie.
Thanks John. Steal with pleasure and good luck with your next project!
Charlie, I’m very glad you didn’t just buy a new door because this video will be tremendously helpful in my upcoming door hanging. Lots of clever tips and tricks too. Thankyou.
Hands down - best vid out there on this procedure
🙏👊 Appreciate that, buddy.
Great video! I know it's five years old, but still totally relevant. I admire your patience in perfecting the fit of the door. People may well say you should just buy a new door, but you would still have to adjust it for the wonky frame, which was the main skill you demonstrated and passed on in this video. Thanks!
Thanks, I really appreciated that. 👊
I used to do my door hinges that with a hammer and chisel for years…. Finally bought a trim router and hinge template- only regret is not doing it sooner!
Great video!!
Thanks Michael. Yes I'm now using a router. Different ball game! ruclips.net/video/_bIqnAf8b2Y/видео.html
@@CharlieDIYte i swore there was a router-bit in the Rypbi bag that was previewed at the beginning of the video.
You don’t need a new door, the door you have fitted looks great. Great video thank you.
Thanks Bernard. 👍
Really enjoyed watching you cut a rebate for the hinge. Thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!👍
Great video"s, liking the close up shots. These old house problems can cause sleepless nights but, after watching you sort the problems out gives us the confidence to use power tools and sort angles out and saving money is good by me. Magic.
Thanks David, I really appreciate that. Yes lots of problems with old houses but nothing insurmountable and I'd sooner tackle old house problems than the huge problems I hear about from people with new builds 👍
Hi charlie you might not know this but a little tip for you when your rebating out the hinges. I usually run a stanley blade to breakup the fibres before getting the chisels out. End up with a much neater finish. Very good video though keep up the good work 👍🏼
Hearing the door click on the end was oh so satisfying!
Yes, I agree, particularly with all my uneven doorways and warped doors! Thanks for the comment 👍
Has anybody else found that once you've bought an electric planer, you are magically transformed into "Johnny who hangs doors for free"?
Wow! I’ve learned a bit of basic carpentry over the years, but I’ve never heard to adjust the saw blade to just below the depth needed to cut the wood. I will definitely remember this tip. Thank you!
This is the only video I've watched on RUclips that show how to correctly install a door. Great video
Cheers Jack. Really appreciate that!
I followed your guide for scribing an architrave on the doorway, close to an adjoining wall and it came out nearly perfect. Thanks. Subbed.
Nice work! It's satisfying getting it to work, isn't it. Thanks for the comment and for the sub 👍
Excellent work, I know people think I’m mad but fitting doors to odd openings is one of my favourite things after fitting kitchens to odd shaped rooms, love a challenge 😎👍
Sweet. Thanks for this video. Even if you could go to buy a new door. Many tips and tricks to fixing problems.
Thanks Peter 👍
Good attempt for a DIYer but quite a few things I picked up on when it comes to hanging doors from a professional point of view who hangs doors for a living as a professional carpenter.
You never have a square edge on the hinge side or closing side of a door. You always plane a bevel on the edges of a door to prevent the door from binding and allow a tight fit on the closing side.
Id of scribed the door to the frame rather than relying on the frame to be straight but out of level if the frame is as old as it looks.
Always stand your door up on its side to plane edges as it’s dangerous to plane the door the way you were. Especially the planing of the filler strip at the bottom of the door. Your fingers are right there if you slipped. I understand it’s a DIY approach but health and safety is a must if sharing knowledge with other DIY enthusiasts using power tools that can cause serious injury.
Sorry if it sounds like a rant, honestly it’s not. I give you praise for sharing your knowledge with others but help and guidance from others to help improve I think is constructive.
Tom Wills, I completely agree. I’ve used a plane like that in the past and it’s not a good idea. It’s harder to plane a level edge as you have less control and it’s harder to see if it’s perpendicular and yeah it’ can be dangerous as well. Also can buy air wedges for £9 which give you a huge amount of adjustment when lining up the door and they hold it in the same position while marking the top and bottom hinge recess without having to keep your foot on a wedge. If you’re putting out content I think it first of all good to learn the professional way of doing things first.
This comment also hasn’t been made in malice. Charlie I love your channel and have just hung a tv on a plasterboard wall using the geefix fixings after seeing your video on this. Keep up the good work. We learn together. Tom
It's one of the best tutorials out there. fantastic, thank you.
Excellent video as always. Lots helpful tips and tricks that I learnt. Keep up the great work.
Just bought two one-over-three panel doors for one-penny plus a fiver of diesel to collect! That's something for the weekend sir! Pass me the plane and we're off to fit a door.
Hi Charlie, great workmanship and patience is key with these jobs. Your door jack is a great help!
Very helpful and well made demonstration, lots of useful little tips here. Fitting a door must be top of the list of jobs that people are flippant about but in truth it's actually not as easy to do as you think- certainly not and do a good job. Two key points as ever; taking your time and having the right tools.
From my experience it might be worth mentioning to take care when planing the edges of a door because depending how it's made if you plane outwards towards the corners (usually if you're planing the top or bottom) you might end up splitting the wood. As ever, take your time and think everything through first!
Thanks for a great video.
Just about to purchase an older house and ive been binging on your great videos for the last 2 months. Been honing my DIY skills for the last 10 years so im going to try and tackle the doors when im in. Something ive never tried before
Thanks so much Michael. You might consider getting one of these. It's been a complete game changer since I got it bit.ly/2NpPFzO
@@CharlieDIYte that looks great. Way better than intricately chipping away with a chisel 😉
When I hang doors I usually use 2p coin for the gap on the head of the door, I also check the old door frame with a straight edge to see it's bowed as you could end up with a larger gap than you wanted.
Chris Delaney Thanks Chris. Great advice!
Thank you! Your video was exactly what I was looking for!!. I got new doors off marketplace for next to nothing, but they didn't line up. Now that I watched your video I am good to go!!
Cheers mate!
That pivot wedge is a belter!
Thanks! It's been pretty useful over the years 👍
The Ryobi door hinge kit is great to use with a router. Saved me soooo much time. You need to try it.
There is also a template kit for hinges called milescraft 150 sold at lowes stores that can router 3" & 3-1/2" hinges on door edges & on door jambs the kit comes with a 1/2" bearing router bit & the templates are for 1/4" & 5/8" round hinges very pleased with the kit..
Was looking for a hinge side trim video, and must say I learned alot from you. I appreciate good Craftsmanship. Thanks for the help. 👍
I'm just about to tackle a similar job on an internal door, so thanks for this video. Feeling a lot more confident than I did half an hour ago (!) Thanks Charlie
Fixing the hinges to the frame first and matching the door in the frame makes SO much more sense. How do you plane true and level with out the electric planner tilting or dropping down at the ends. Great production technique - thank you
MA1973 Thanks mate. With the plane, this isn't very helpful but it's really just down to experience, the more you use it the better you get. I used to plane with the wood vertical but even though it's easier to plane square with the wood on its end, you get no sense of how close to the line you're planing when you do it that way. So planning horizontal is better but it's more difficult to get your planning square. You just have to hold the plane as square as you can, maybe start with it on a very fine setting so you're not removing too much, and regularly check how you're getting on. You get a feel for it after a while.
It's difficult to describe, but when you get to the end, you almost have to keep the plane level with your hand, or almost raise it off the wood if that makes sense, so that it doesn't sink down and take off more than it should as it leaves the wood 🤔
Charlie DIYte thank you :)
Second hand one-over-three door framed, trimmed, hung and lock fitted. Fits and latches better than anything else in the house. Thank you.
Extremely interesting insight Charlie. Well done and great video.
I am about to cut my bedroom door vertically straight down the middle to create a French style opening door. I will be reversing my door frame too.
The reason for this is because my apartment bedroom is very small and to get any decent sized wardrobe to fit, I knew that I would have to make changes to the door and frame itself.
As usual Charlie, keep up the good work and I cannot wait to see your new circular saw. By the way, love your door lifter!
Thanks Deanne and good luck with your bedroom door!
Nice work. I admire your patient hinge work, but i gotta tell ya, i just bought the ryobi hinge kit, and it is BEAUTIFUL (and quick once u dial in the depth). You DO need a router tho. But, if you do alot of doors, it saves tons of time. Probably a hinge in less than a minute.
Hi Charlie, great video. I hate fitting new doors to old properties, never goes quickly. One thing I do differently is use a router for rebating the hinges in, gives you a much cleaner cut on the front face of the door. Chisel round the perimeter lines as normal so the router doesn’t skip into where it shouldn’t.
On another note I’m after a bit of advice. Currently renovating my front garden and I’ve built a wall with some pillars. The pillar tops have got polished concrete pyramids on. I want to paint them the same colour as I will my fence but I’m not sure what to use on them because they’re so smooth? If you could point me in a good (not too expensive) direction that would be great!
Keep the great videos coming!
Richard
Brilliant video and enormously helpful for someone like me who is not a serious DIY ...er. Keep up the great work
Thanks John. Really appreciate the comment 👍🏻
Man, anyone doing this graduates instantly as a serious DIY.
Thanks for sharing. I am currently doing a very similar job
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video - thank you very much. I am glad that you didn't speed up some of the stuff - eg cutting out the hinge rebates & planing the edges - that other youtubers tend to speed over as it was good to see your techniques did that in real time speed.
That was very well done. Especially considering your not a joiner you showed good knowledge. better than me and i did 2 years college.
little tip for you to get the clearance for the gap at the top is put a coin on top corner when setting out
Ah, good thinking, Scott!
Dragon drive
Thanx Charlie I have learn lots of things from you.your videos always help me out.
Wow Charlie - amazing work. I love your patience, precision and persistence. Impressive. I feel inspired to tackle that door in the den that has been mocking me ever since I moved in. Thanks.
Chock full of good tips for beginners and a few cool tricks even for the seasoned viewers!
Thanks. Just subscribed.
True up the door frame is easier and no need to go through this monkey motion every time you install a new door. Trim router for the hinges would go faster, no need for jig if careful and go slow. Set the bit height once then you could do all the doors. I found using an air wedge under the door for micro height adjustments with your foot while holding up the door for alignment so much easier. A vix bit for centering holes for those hinges handy to have around. Jawhorse as an extra hand for heavy exterior door working alone.
A gap under the door is normal for ventilation. The sides of doors don't have to be planed 90°, they are often planes on a angle to allow the door to close.
Gordon Ramsay of construction! Lol YOU'RE the BEST. Thank you!!
Good job on the door Charlie, why buy new when your finished result is brilliant. Keep the tips coming.
Good video again Charlie. Not sure if they were out back when you filmed this but I’ve found Winbags extremely useful for jacking up doors etc. they work via a little pump you can squash with your foot and allow very fine tuning for elevating. Godsend when fitting my pvc frame and doors to my garden gym.
Thanks Chris. Yes I need to get some of these. Great recommendation 👌
Use a marking gauge instead of chisel when marking out depth of your hinges & use Stanley knife to score line for width of hinge pain in the arse old frames are like bananas well done Charlie👍
Nice work Charlie. I do hate moulded doors. Never gives you enough trimming material and when you take off too much there is not enough material to hang the hinge. I have in fact ripped out the trim materials and slotted in new timber.
Agreed mate. If money was no object I'd rip them all out and put some nice old originals back in!
When setting up a fence guide to trim a door (or worktop or similar) with a circular saw, it's better to have it arranged so that the wider side of the saw baseplate is on the fence side. That makes it much less likely that the cut will go out of the vertical with much more of the baseplate in contact. Of course, the fence guide and clamps have to the low enough so that the saw's motor housing has clearance. If the clamps are a problem, then just using a wider piece of wood or
The other thing is to be careful of breakout when cutting across the grain or cutting laminate. I always stick a piece of duct tape over the ends of the cut. Maybe not so important with a door which is to be painted as filler can be used, but for an unpainted door it's particularly important.
Great video. The wedge worked really well. I have several doors to hang and will definitely be making a similar wedge. Thanks.
Cheers Mark - I appreciate that, and good luck with your door hanging.
Got to hand it to you charlie you are a clever guy ,that wedge you made to jack the door up is an excellent idea you should get that patented and make a fortune selling them to B & Q :)
Thanks Simon. I suspect I copied it from a builder somewhere along the line!!
So glad I stumbled across this😊 Exactly what my daughters bedroom door needs. Soon as i get a cpl of those tools😊😊😊
You're very welcome, and there's an updated video here ruclips.net/video/_bIqnAf8b2Y/видео.html
Thumbs up for teaching me that that saw's blade will wander if it's too long past the material that you are cutting. Thank you!😎
Good honest solution with minimal everyday tools.
Nice job! If you had bought a new door, you would have had to mess around with it to get it to fit anyway, I think that door is much better and has character too.
Hi Charlie, I've bought a nice original door to replace our current bathroom one. We have a Victorian terrace so the frame is wonky, I will follow this guide to install, thank you!
Nice roll up bits pouch. I much prefer soft containers than hard cases, in general.
Agreed. I have both and the rolls win every time.
I learned a couple things here that weren't even door related. Thanks!
Was watching this and shouted to the kids to behave, turns out it was on your video 😂. Fantastic work bud, I'm in the middle of this exact same thing.
beautiful job dont worry about what others think or say great job here from new york
Brilliant videos Charlie so easy to follow and inspirational
Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to comment 👍
Love your DIY demos Charlie! So helpful!
Aw, thanks Michelle. I really appreciate that and am reallly chuffed you find them useful 👍
Hi
You made that look easy my friend .
I too have doors to fit but have no power tools yet not sure I am comfortable with all them blades going like hell. I shall watch this one a few times.
Anyway
Thanks
Just use horse sense, eye and ear protection. Unplug or remove battery every time you need to adjust. Hands and fingers no where near those blades. Step aside from moving blades, not directly in alignment with it. We all need to start from somewhere. BTW hand tools are more precise with practice, relaxing and a good workout.
Lovely classy door handle and plate and says it’s disgusting, jeepers!
Well done for re-use and re-cycling the door. A "new" one would not have been better in any way and would have been the same effort
Thanks Rachel 👍
That was very good I'm like you I don't have a whole lot of money to spend but this is a very good way to do a job..👍
Thanks mate 👍🏻
Nice, I trace the line with my utility knife first but it turns out great
Great job and worth it on several levels.
Thanks Wayne!
@@CharlieDIYte at last. Someone who knows how to plane a door. I have seen many people plane a door and cut so deep that the planer grinds just about to a halt and make a mess of it because they are wanting to do it too quickly to get the job done. I'm talking about property builders and SOME DIYRS. you got the skill to plane that door sideways and slowly without making the planer sound like a very nasty angry bee or a angry yowling cat. Is that planer electronic as it has no problem deep cutting and is not quick to slow down
@@CharlieDIYte at last. Someone who knows how to plane a door. I have seen many people plane a door and cut so deep that the planer grinds just about to a halt and make a mess of it because they are wanting to do it too quickly to get the job done. I'm talking about property builders and SOME DIYRS. you got the skill to plane that door sideways and slowly without making the planer sound like a very nasty angry bee or a angry yowling cat. Is that planer electronic as it has no problem deep cutting and is not quick to slow down
Great video thanks! I have only done one door in my house with similar issues a few years ago, and now working up the courage to take on some more!
Excellent vid and thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom. The problem with my house is NOTHING is straight it's like working in a circus at the hall of mirrors 😂
Brilliant video - thanks for making it so in-depth and concise for DIY novices like myself! I feel confident to go and attempt this myself now :)
I'm so pleased to hear that. Take your time and you'll do a great job👍🏻
Another good video. Very timely I am hanging a new door at the moment. I hate painting too!
Spot on. Door looks great. 👍🏻
Brilliant work again....
Another tip charlie , when trimming the door to suit. Just get a pack of shims some 16th of a inch and some an 8th of an inch in thickness before trimming hold the door in the frame like as in your video. just get your 16th of an inch shim an hold it flush to the door stopper on the hinge side ,scribe a line down the door , then put the two shims together scribe the top of the door , then on the lockside just scribe a line with the 1 /8th shim. But make sure to gain another 1/16th on the hinge side for the door tonfit correctly in the frame. Its pretty complicated trying to type it all out. But use this method its alot quicker i find🙂hope this helps you out.👍🏼
I love your videos. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Richard 👊
Again well done Charlie excellent tutorial keep up the good work
Thanks Joseph!
Really excellent video Charlie. Very practical as opposed to all the 'perfect scenario's' that are often put on youtube. I have 7 new doors to hang but they are all walnut. I cannot paint if I make an error!! Hence what brought me here to make sure I get things right. I have done one door already and it looks fine in a frame that is parallel up to half way up then tapers out by 5mm on each side to the top!! I am very happy with the results but your tips will make the fitting of the next 6 easier. One thing I noticed was that I did the same as you... used my laser level to determine the state of the existing frame before I started. Crucial to the final result I would say.
I have subscribed and will check out your other videos. I seemed to have trouble with the 25mm paddle drill. Brand new Dewalt's but seem to take while to drill the 70mm or so to fit the 57mm mortice.
Great videos, have really helped me with my first DIY refurb! Although my problem has been i have 2 x 2"4'x6"4' and one 2"5'x 6"4' door frame! Ignorantly trimmed a moulded 2"'6 down to fit the 2 foot 5 space, which didn't go well. So having to reduce the door frame space now!
Very good video, step by step.. Thank u
True, a lot of work! but the result is amazing! good job Charlie!
Use circular saw to make all the cutting but 1mm from the line, then pass over once with planner to smooth out cut marks, much quicker and straight every time
Thank you for the good video.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Excellent video Charlie! what is the best way of trimming fire doors?
I was thinking why doesn't he just take the trim off and square off the door frame. Then i could see the amount that it was out by so that one would of been more labour intensive than trimming the door. Ihave the exact same issue however we had the frames refitted and who did it completely bodged them worse than they were previous so now they have to be done again! Wish i had watched this video a year ago it would of given me an idea how to deal with out of square frames.
Thanks Charlie - learnt something useful tips via this video. I'm in the position of thinking about hanging 8 new oak doors in our bungalow and need as many tips as I can get. I want to do the job but something that I'm not certain about is whether to use a normal smoothing plane or a power plane when taking down the various adjustment thicknesses. If anyone has any comments or thoughts about the pros and cons I'd love to hear them. I would add that I love using my smoothing plane - it really does make me feel good - but I'm only use to small lengths of wood. I'm concerned that taking, say 2mm, of the side of a door, especially a hardwood door, might be a different job and that a power plane would be better. Open to advice!
A good power plane is far easiest - with tungsten carbide tipped ('tct') blades - especially if you're talking about oak doors. By the way (and most people make this mistake - even many joiners,) it's a 'smooth' plane. It has no grooves in the soleplate; as a Jack plane has, hence the name.
Top banana, superb close up shots as well
Thanks Mark!
Awesome video as usual... I did note a hefty crack around your horizontal structural beam that may need some attention!
Why didn't i put a plank of wood down and clamp it down.
My beautiful door i paid £295 for is now a complete disaster as the saw ran away from me and sliced right up the door 😫😭😭😫😫😭😭😫😫
I now need to buy a new door if only I watched this video first.
Thanks for the video Charlie .off I trot for a new door 🤣🤣🤣🤣
So sorry to hear that. Also make sure you set that blade to the right height - with only half a tooth poking below the door. Otherwise the saw will run out again. Good luck with the replacement. These things do happen, it's all part of the learning process 👍
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome 👍🏻
03:25 we always called it "pissed" in London, not mad. First thing I said when you showed the preview was "Yeah, it's pissed, it's a Victorian door" before you even mentioned it was Victorian cottage.
Ah yes. I had a place in East Dulwich and became friends with a builder from Greenwich who basically helped me rebuild the Victorian terraced house I had. That phrase came up a lot! 👍
@@CharlieDIYte haha, glad you know it. I've only got 3 doors to trim and no space for a disk saw, had to go primitive with a tenon saw in shifts, but thanks for the vid and tips. There's something nice about Victorian houses and those quirks. I mean, sometimes it can take a while to get around to it, but once you've trimmed a door to shape or rendered something flat again, it's really satisfying compared with a new build. Glad you're enjoying it anyway!
Really enjoy the videos keep them coming. One recommendation use ear defenders or plugs!I diy and ride motorbikes and always use plugs.
Another cracking video Charlie.
Hiya Charlie, good job & a nice finish job good job thank you for the wood working lesson please keepem coming GL & happy D.I.Y. ING, all the best to you & your family cheers👏👏👏👏👌👍💪👊👋👋👋👋.
Thanks mate - really appreciate that. When you spend pretty much a day editing this stuff, emoji laden messages like yours are absolutely top drawer!!
Cracking good job on refitting and restoring the door, can I ask why you didn't change over the hinges so the door opened flush against the wall?
I thought long and hard about doing that. I decided not to, because the bed is next to the door which gives it a bit of privacy (not that that's particularly important) and on the current hinge side when you step into the corridor there's a staircase immediately to your right, so I suppose having the hinges where they are helps on the safety side. Ultimately though I think there's a strong argument for having it where you suggest.
Great job and if you can salvage what you have, that's less you have to buy and toss into a dump. Cheers Martin. Subscribing.
Thank you, sir. Very helpful for me
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment
Very useful video for the likes of me. Thank you!
5:30 great tip !!!!
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video! Very helpful. Thanks. Can I ask you how come the door flames are mostly not square and need to be cutting from time to time over the years? is it because the house still settling or would it be other issues?
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I’m new to your RUclips channel Charlie but finding them really useful. I am rehanging all me doors with new ironmongery, but have an issue. The existing latches seem slightly smaller in cross section than newer replacements. I can’t use a spade drill bit as it would wander all over the place. Any tips for enlarging the opening?
@@paulnorthcott6634 use a round long file. That's what I use, rasp round file. It eats through it easily. I had same issue