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Another great video Charlie, as for the hinge spacing I also used to think it was to male them appear equidistant however I learned from one of the comments on a "Skill Builder" video that that is not the case..... quote ... ." the ACTUAL reason why we use a hinge spacing of 6" top/8" or 9" bottom. Pre-1890 there were no definitive standard-sized doors - a brickie or stonemason would leave a hole in a wall which was big enough to accommodate a 2" thick frame plus a door - usually around 6'6" x 2'6" for a regular internal, and he'd put in oak wedges between mortar courses to give the chippie something to nail the frame into - and more of the same wedges between vertical brick courses for skirtings, dado rails and so on. The chippie would then very often build a door onsite to fit the frame, unless he worked for a company with a local workshop where they could be done more easily. I actually finished making 12 new doors for a Victorian house last week - and every single one was a totally different size ........ But anyway - in 1891, two companies started the first mass-production of doors - one in London, and another one up in West Yorkshire. Victorian doors would invariably be 4 or 6-panelled, but if you look at anything from that period, you'll always see that the bottom rail is half as deep again as the top rail, with the middle rail being dimensioned somewhere in between - this was done to make the door aesthetically pleasing. To make production faster and because there were no CNC routers back then, these doors were always made using through tenons - and the hinge spacing derived from the fact that when the doors were being hung, the chippie would always chop out the hinge rebates in a position to avoid the tenons - with the tenons ending 5" from the top of the door, and either 7" or 8" from the bottom. The reason why some chippies use 6+8 and others use 6+9 is that the two companies mentioned used different bottom rail depths - the Yorkshire ones were an inch lower than the London ones. That tradition has stuck to this very day. "
I just love this guy no flash tools just get the job done 10/10, he covers every bit from start to finish, not like the other door fitting installation with terrible music and speeded up videos covering every angle teaches people to do it the right way. thumbs up all the way
Loved the suggestion to use the router to cut the rebates; it gave a much better result than previous using my crappy chisels (and even crappier chiselling technique).
I just bought (11) new doors for a remodel and had to route (22) door hinges. I used the Mikwaukee cordless router and a Ryobi hinge cutting template. Without those, I don't feel it would have gone near as well. Love these little compact routers. Enjoyed the video. Thanks!
Great clear instructional video, these small router/ trimmers truly are a game changer for door hanging and other jobs purely because of the size and weight of them and the neat jobs they produce and clearly speed things up, i’ve always found a good tip for hinges is to screw them in position first and then scribe around with a snap off knife which gets you in tight to the hinge, keep up your great work.
Good video, I bought a Ryobi hinge jig and it is a good tool. Only one problem with it, it is made for the American market. 4 inch Hines and above is ok, he 3 inch hinges we use in the uk re 10 mm smaller in depth, so I had to make a pacer to fit in the jig. Keep the great video’ coming.
Excellent video. I've hung a couple of doors before and they were a mission. So many great tips here, made the job so much easier. I even cut wedges out of scrap to prop the door up. Thanks
just a thought - if you used a couple more pieces of scrap wood with your pieces that you clamped to provide stability across the edge of the door you could create end stops for standard hinge sizes making it even easier to chop out the rebates quickly and accurately.
This is what I did. I built a jig that clamps on the door edge . I then I use a full size router to cut the material out. You can also buy a jig to do the door frame, but it’s large and expensive.
I've just realised the Bosch is a bare tool. I assumed it came with a battery as most 12vs do, but it's greyed out in the picture. Dow, sorry about that!
2 tips for you Charlie, 1 outline the marked out butts with coloured masking tape do you can see more easily as you approach the stop point 2 clamp a piece of wood to the side of the door or frame which needs routing and that will keep the router level and not make a deeper gouge when you til the router out of level. Good work
I went for the Makita set about 2 weeks ago as I was already heavily invested into their batteries. I am new to using routers so the timing of this video is great - thank you Charlie.
Ah, nice one Mat. That's the one my carpenter mate John has and he loves it! It'll be a game changer for your DIY. That big DeWalt in my vid sat in a box unused for the first few years I owned it and then I started dabbling with it and have never looked back. The 1/4 inch is a much more versatile tool though so you'll love it. See if you can get yourself a router set to get you started. I got a lovely little kit from Screwfix years ago in a wooden box - I think it's Trend but branded Screwfix. They don't sell it now but there are loads out there.
@@CharlieDIYte I have bought a Trend starter set - the Makita 18v router came with a 6mm & 8mm Collet - these would not fit the 1/4" Trend bits so I had to buy another Collet. It seems very good so far and now every project no matter how small gets a bit of routing on it! Next small project it to tart up a small plain ikea table by routing top & legs.
Instead of a round handle lock we went with a lever style (35 years ago)... easier to open when you are carrying things and found it easier to use for young children in their early years. Cheers from Nashville!
Yes that makes perfect sense. Also with a lever, you don't have to worry about the wider backset. Humbled that my vids are getting all the way to you guys. Massive thanks for watching 👍
@@CharlieDIYte I have always enjoyed the Brits... back to the 90's when I was over-seeing a distribution facility in Corsham (Wiltshire)... what I wouldn't do to enjoy a Wadworth 6X right now... I miss those days...
Charlie, just Done my doors today and whipped up a plywood jig the size of the hinge and used a flush cutter it was a so quick and simple once completed. Three hinges per door not 6 an 9 though as I was avoiding previous filled rebates. Keep up the good work.
Hung loads of doors and lucky enough to have the Makita, but never crossed my mind to chisel the edge first , great idea and will be doing this next time , thanks mate
Sharp Stanley knife around the hinge or lock first slightly angled underneath, router out then just flick the corners out wiyh a knife, far easier than chisels and neater than pencils :)
I can recommend the use of a corner chisel to square out the rounded corners of the rebate left by the router bit. The Trend one can be found on many UK web sites for £12 to £25.
Had one of those Ryobi trim router, there great but I’ve now upgraded to dewalt 18v plunge router. I always cut my outlines of the hinge with a new Stanley knife blade as you router it just falls away.
I bought a Ryobi trim router and it is a good tool. I have Dewalt and Ryobi power tools. Some Dewalt tools are very expensive. Over twice the price of Ryobi
Thanks Charlie, nice video, had the router for over a year, it’s great, made some nice jigs by removing the Perspex base and attaching directly such as circle jigs etc, 👍
That's good to hear Richard. Yes they've put a lot of thought into this one and in yet to find fault with it. I like your point about changing the base. What's the benefit of swapping a square base for the Makita style circular one?
Charlie DIYte hi, sorry I was clear, I remove the current base only for my jigs, just makes it easier to attach circle cutting jig and others using the 4 screws that hold the standard base.
Thanks Dave. I agree, and as you say, they're a very fair price. I've just bought a new bit from them in a quarter inch shank as I have the half inch version but my big old DeWalt router is going to be too big and unwieldy for the work. Love this little trim router!
I use a black and decker wm450 as a door block holder works nice and I put all door gadgets in that box I would have hung the door the other way also the door blocks the light as you open it maybe you had a switch on the wall that enabled you nice neat video thanks you come across easy to watch and clear and not annoying lol
Thanks Kevin. Yes that looks like a nice storage box that Black and Decker 👌 We thought about rehanging the door but there was a light switch as you say and my wife didn't like the idea of walking out of the door with the stair case so close to the entrance.
Nice vid Charlie, mark around the hinge in the first place with a knife, that is of corse after shooting the door into the opening and marking the position of the top of the top hinge the top of the bottom hinge of the with a chisel indent 👍😷
Recently changed all the doors at my home without any door clamps/stands - I found that F Clamps are perfect for standing doors, I use a couple of 900mm steel Irwin, the heads hold the door upright and have heavy enough bars to stop them falling (I used a 3rd clamp in the opposite direction in the middle for the first door but didn't really need it so I just used the 2 on the other 9 doors) ..also - on a few episodes of New Yankee Workshop (a few years ago now) Norm was using round ended hinges, lock plates etc. so they could easily be cut in with a router (he even cut half moon shaped hinges in with a biscuit cutter in a few episodes) but I have never found this hardware - ever!
6mm collet so you can use 6mm shank router bits or CNC milling bits (or even a 6mm drill bit for perfectly perpendicular holes when plunging, although not with the Ryobi). I have the ER20 7mm/6mm collet in my bench router which means I can use 6mm shank or 1/4" shank in the same collet. Swap it for the ER20 1/2" collet for the 1/2" bits. I was on the fence about this Ryobi router for months exactly because it had no plunge facility and I really wasn't sure if I would use the plunge or not, having never had a trim router before. Eventually I went for the wired Katsu Makita clone for half the price of the Ryobi, now I can see that I really will use the plunge facility so the plunge attachment for the Katsu will bring it up to the cost of the Ryobi (about an extra £15 more for the Makita plunge base) ... but it'll have plunge ability.
Hi Charlie! I just wanted to say a massive thank you to you for ALL of your videos. I bought my first house back in August last year and it's a bit of a fixer-upper. I've been trying to get lots of DIY done during lockdown, but as an absolute beginner I need to take the extra time to learn all of the processes. Your videos have helped me hugely, and no doubt has helped many, many other DIYers (and probably professionals!) as well. Thank you once again for your valuable content - I hope you and your family are doing okay during the lockdown.
I used a sharp stanly blade to cut a line on the hinges as opposed to a pencil. Then run a pencil over the cut line so it’s easy to see. When you route it makes a super clean line for the hinges.
Been doing this for at least 10 years, Makita with a side fence will do the job.I scribe edge of hinge on door first, then route and finish off with a sharp Chisel.
Hi have you thought about obtaining the corner chisel for the hinges and another one for when your drilling out the screw holes. You can also buy self center drill bits you put your hinge in place and the self center bits follow the countersink of the hinge.
Thanks James. I have a corner chisel that I bought recently for an outdoor seating build that's coming in the spring. That and the self centre drill bits would definitely be worth buying particularly if I was fitting a lot of these.
Alri Charlie mate. Great tips there.. I just bought my 1st router this week. It was a bit daunting at 1st but I run bigger machines than these little yokes so it was easy to understand. The collets were the weirdest part for me at the start.. I finally got them worked out. That Ryobi is a sweet piece of kit. I'll be getting one of them soon too. I got the bigger plunge router but I'm get used to it.
Good work, mate. Yep I've got the 1/2 inch shank DeWalt. Personally I'd never go back to it now I've got the little trim router. There aren't many jobs it can't do as you may have seen on my wardrobe build ruclips.net/video/lXs-4iXO874/видео.html
This is exactly how I’ve started doing my doors! Unfortunately didn’t think of it when I did 15 doors in a mates house 🤦🏻♂️ my next step is to try using a home made jig and a barring guided bit. Top work bud and great video 👍
Another interesting video, thanks Charlie! I'd recommend getting a black plastic latch box keep - this will hide the bare wood in the latch plate seen at 12:06 :)
I keep saying to myself I’ll get one for work.... but then I always end up using my chisels and think do I need one!?? But you can use them for so much more so I guess I should really buy one. I’d probably go makita only due to the fact all my other tools are makita and the blue boxes look all nice and matching in the van haha. But that’s me being ocd lol! Nice video mate. House coming along nicely now!
Marc, you owe it to yourself to get the Makita. It will make your life so much easier. My carpenter mate John has the Makita and loves it. Does all his hinge and latch rebating with it.
Great video. I have that router as well and use it all the time. Quick tip, when you have all you support for the hinge clamped on, pop a cross piece on the top and bottom of the cut to define your height limits as well. Makes it easy to repeat the cut as well.
Good point Warren. It's a fab little tool isn't it. I'll be featuring it quite heavily this week in this video series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html with an improvised wedge shaped bed to cut angled grooves for LED lighting in our new wardrobes.
Thanks James. Yes I can't really find anything wrong with it. Just wish I had pointed out that for Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee users there's a battery adaptor you can buy for £20 so you can use your existing batteries with it - as I explained in my recent glue gun vid.
Great job and well explained as usual Charlie. If I had more than a couple of doors to do, I think that I would invest the time and make a router jig for the hinges and latch. Also, most doors in the states have three hinges....all the more work and reason to make a jig.
i love this profession the most because it is nice ,clean & one can make good living out of it if he know properly and i like the aroma of the wood (the 2nd one is auto mechanic) the only issue is the cost of the tools. i had to play your video @ 0.75 speed to really understand it as im not a native english speaker. i like your videos..(not by that lady in ultra short 'shorts' which is to get more views. this is my opinion)
Mank thanks for that. Done a few rebates with chisels but somewhat variable, so router the way to go. Another video with a bit more on how to line up the door, and correct any errors, e,g. Twists would be good. Hopefully they will all send you a router now so you can doba compare video. Thanks for simplifying routers for the uninitiated.
When marking for hinges etc, I prefer to use a Stanley knife or scalpel - to avoid pencil kerf. It leaves a well visible line and is also useful later on when you hit it with the chisel. IMO the inexactitudes which come from marking with pencils are widely underestimated.
Cannot believe how good the Ryobi router is for that price. its making me wonder now if i should buy a Makita DRT50 ZX4 Router or go for a Ryobi or ask the wife if if i am allowed to treat myself to a Milwaukee. Is Ryobi like bosch, you buy at a cheap price (thinking use it and throw away if it breaks) but you end up having it for a very long time as it refuses to break.
Exactly Alex. I've got loads of Ryobi from drills to site lamps, chain saws to leaf blowers and not a single thing has broken yet. The chuck on the combi drill I've had about 7 years is on its way out. That's about it. You know if you have Bosch, Milwaukee or Makita or DeWalt batteries already you can get a badaptor on eBay for £20 to use your existing batteries with the Ryobi. Check out my glue gun vid ruclips.net/video/idmmDRM3x0A/видео.html for further info (I'm annoyed I forgot to mention it).
Best way is to offer the door up to the frame with the hinges attached, raising it off the floor with a glazing packer or a few coins/ folded cardboard or whatever you have to hand and then mark the position of the hinges on the frame with a pencil.
when you do the door hinge side if you connect your two bits of timer with cross bars at the right position you would have built in stops for the router. combine this with the right over hangs to position the hinge 6 inch from the top or 9 from the bottom you could avoid the need to mark anything on the door. simply put the top of the jig level with the door top. route the top hinge then slide the jig down so the other end stops level with the bottom, clamp and route it out. no marking needed. just a thought.
Thanks for this, I have been a bit dubious about using a trim router for doing hinges, you made it look nice and simple. Definately giving this a try next time and the 2 pieces of scrap for a more scure work area was a stoke of genius
I think you get 1/4 inch and 6mm collet because if you buy router bits in different countries that use metric or imperial you get a slightly different size, there is 0.35mm difference between the metric and imperial bit shank.
Just so good. I want to change the swing direction of my living room door and had no idea where to start. This is very helpful. Any tips on how to fill in old rebated gaps in a door? (As I change the swing everything switches side so I'll end up with holes all over the old side) thanks again for such helpful video.
Funnily enough that's exactly what I had planned with this door, except I wasn't going to change the swing direction. I was going to flip the door round so I had a fresh platform to cut the hinges and tubular latch into. So I filled the hinge rebates and tubular latch and then realised that because the old Victorian door opening is so asymmetric, I couldn't flip the door round so all my hard work was wasted! To fill the hinges just use two part wood filler and gradually build it up, and sand with 120 grit sand paper wrapped around a bit of wood or 3m sanding block until flat. For the tubular latch, get a piece of pine or other wood and hack it to roughly the right shape (tap it end on with a chisel) and when you're done tap into the hole previously filled by the latch itself. Doesn't have to be exact. You're basically filling the hole as best you can to give the filler something to press up against when you fill the holes where the door handle spindles went in. The once you've tapped it in, again, hit it with the two part wood filler. Hope that helps but drop me another line if you've got any questions. 👍
Mark around the hinge with a Stanley blade not a pencil. Its far closer in accuracy and leaves a small indent groove for your chisels to follow and leaves you with perfect chisel lines that fit the hinge perfectly. The router is great for getting out the bulk though. Solid video.
Great job mate. Can you do a video on installing intumescent strips, either in the door or in the panel? I am required to do this to most doors in the house since our loft conversion.
I would but haven't got a call for our in the cottage right now - although I'll need to put some new doors in the kitchen refurb in a few months. This trim router would be the perfect tool for that. 👊
Great video. I think the Trend corner chisel makes a quick and easy fix for sharp corners. My trim router has a solid base to will be making a perspex one after this :)
Hey Charlie. Thanks a million for your very informative series of videos. Love your channel.👌 I've been doing maintenance for more than ten years and I must say, I've learnt a lot from your channel. Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your knowledge. Regards Tyrone
Hi Charlie, Thank you for video footage of the correct way to fit door hinges. Thank you also for assessing your router. I'm looking at buying B+Q's own make of router, called McCallister, I think? It looks a fair bit more cumbersome than your's. However, I'm not going too far away from a plug, so plenty of juice. I also need to be able to sink the cutter deep as poss. Any thoughts or advice would be gratefully accepted, Thank you. Good luck with your future endeavours mate, Ian. Ps, I won't be using the router 24/7, Thank you.
Hi Ian. You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment! I think the first review on the website sums it up. If you're a pro whose going to use it a lot look elsewhere but for occasional DIY use it's perfect. So I'd go for it on that basis. You could spend another £30 on the Bosch but for what you're intending to use it for I think it'll be fine 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte hi Charlie I've got a big router but don't use it on doors I just do my locks and latches with a drill and chisels I'm 42 years old . Once you've worked on a building site on new houses and you've done a few houses you get good with a chisel doesant take long I prefer locks and latches spade bit and chisel
Iv just seen you in a advert ! I’ve bin watching your channel for a time, “ the bin primer “ perfect , mate , airasol, to finish skirting, MDF, perfect."..
Thanks mate. I've got to say I can't fault it right now and you can buy a "badaptor" on eBay to use your existing Bosch, DeWalt, Makita or Milwaukee batteries with it. Annoyed I forgot to mention that, but for more info on them, check out my recent glue gun video 👍
I haven't, David but you'd definitely be able to use this tool for the routing, using the sled that comes with it. There was quite a bit of routing in this vid ruclips.net/video/lXs-4iXO874/видео.html
No, the door face was a complete battle ground, owing to the fact that it fell over in the room a few times when renovating, landed on stuff and got damaged. I've filled it in multiple places.
Hi Charlie, I'd like to fill in the hinge slots of a doorway where there used to be a door, do you have any tips on how to go about this to make a near perfect finish? Thanks
Hi Neil. Yes, I'd get a tub of 2 part wood filler - something like this amzn.to/3eXDzI6 and gradually build it up - you mix it on a piece of perspex or wood - whatever you've got lying around. Get a continental filler knife set to apply it with and maybe some Stanley knife blades to scale the filler off the filler knife after each run, to keep it clean. You can then sand it down with some sandpaper wrapped round a block of wood. Maybe take off the majority with 80 or 120 grit, moving up to 180 or 240 for the final smooth. It will be an invisible repair when you've finished. I did a video on using this stuff way back bit.ly/3ejwMd1 but it's got cheesy music throughout unfortunately.
I’m looking at internal doors at the moment as I’m about to start the halls and stairs. I’d be interested in your take on what doors you’re thinking of. Like you I’ve got hollow doors and just want rid, so I just want some good quality replacements.
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Another great video Charlie, as for the hinge spacing I also used to think it was to male them appear equidistant however I learned from one of the comments on a "Skill Builder" video that that is not the case..... quote ...
." the ACTUAL reason why we use a hinge spacing of 6" top/8" or 9" bottom. Pre-1890 there were no definitive standard-sized doors - a brickie or stonemason would leave a hole in a wall which was big enough to accommodate a 2" thick frame plus a door - usually around 6'6" x 2'6" for a regular internal, and he'd put in oak wedges between mortar courses to give the chippie something to nail the frame into - and more of the same wedges between vertical brick courses for skirtings, dado rails and so on. The chippie would then very often build a door onsite to fit the frame, unless he worked for a company with a local workshop where they could be done more easily. I actually finished making 12 new doors for a Victorian house last week - and every single one was a totally different size ........ But anyway - in 1891, two companies started the first mass-production of doors - one in London, and another one up in West Yorkshire. Victorian doors would invariably be 4 or 6-panelled, but if you look at anything from that period, you'll always see that the bottom rail is half as deep again as the top rail, with the middle rail being dimensioned somewhere in between - this was done to make the door aesthetically pleasing. To make production faster and because there were no CNC routers back then, these doors were always made using through tenons - and the hinge spacing derived from the fact that when the doors were being hung, the chippie would always chop out the hinge rebates in a position to avoid the tenons - with the tenons ending 5" from the top of the door, and either 7" or 8" from the bottom. The reason why some chippies use 6+8 and others use 6+9 is that the two companies mentioned used different bottom rail depths - the Yorkshire ones were an inch lower than the London ones. That tradition has stuck to this very day. "
Thanks for that informative information. Top man.
Brilliant Dave Mitchell
Nice one
Bollocks.
6 36 66 inches end of
And how old are you like?
I just love this guy no flash tools just get the job done 10/10, he covers every bit from start to finish, not like the other door fitting installation with terrible music and speeded up videos covering every angle teaches people to do it the right way.
thumbs up all the way
Thanks Rick, I really appreciate that 👊🏻
Got to be one if not the best DIY channel going without these videos my house would be a rite state. Keep it up pal.
Builder of 20yrs and fitted hundreds of doors the traditional way. Just bought a Dewalt 18v router and your tips were helpful. Cheers
Subbed. I like the fact you don't have a £20,000 + workshop and still do great work with affordable tools 👍
Couldn't agree more! 👍
And has made a top class presentation, excellent video.
I love your comment! I feel the same
It’s a lovely feeling hearing that door clicking closed when it’s hung right first time! CLICK.... another great vid, cheers bud
Loved the suggestion to use the router to cut the rebates; it gave a much better result than previous using my crappy chisels (and even crappier chiselling technique).
I just bought (11) new doors for a remodel and had to route (22) door hinges. I used the Mikwaukee cordless router and a Ryobi hinge cutting template. Without those, I don't feel it would have gone near as well. Love these little compact routers. Enjoyed the video. Thanks!
Great clear instructional video, these small router/ trimmers truly are a game changer for door hanging and other jobs purely because of the size and weight of them and the neat jobs they produce and clearly speed things up, i’ve always found a good tip for hinges is to screw them in position first and then scribe around with a snap off knife which gets you in tight to the hinge, keep up your great work.
Good video, I bought a Ryobi hinge jig and it is a good tool. Only one problem with it, it is made for the American market. 4 inch Hines and above is ok, he 3 inch hinges we use in the uk re 10 mm smaller in depth, so I had to make a pacer to fit in the jig. Keep the great video’ coming.
Thanks for that, Taff, I was very tempted to buy one of those so that insight is very useful.
Excellent video. I've hung a couple of doors before and they were a mission. So many great tips here, made the job so much easier. I even cut wedges out of scrap to prop the door up. Thanks
Great to hear that Martin. Thanks so much for the comment. Really chuffed you found the vid useful 👍
just a thought - if you used a couple more pieces of scrap wood with your pieces that you clamped to provide stability across the edge of the door you could create end stops for standard hinge sizes making it even easier to chop out the rebates quickly and accurately.
This is what I did. I built a jig that clamps on the door edge . I then I use a full size router to cut the material out.
You can also buy a jig to do the door frame, but it’s large and expensive.
My doors don’t need replacing Charlie but I was so intrigued that I had to watch the whole clip. Another superb video. Love that router!
that router is now £124 . 00 !!
I've just realised the Bosch is a bare tool. I assumed it came with a battery as most 12vs do, but it's greyed out in the picture. Dow, sorry about that!
2 tips for you Charlie, 1 outline the marked out butts with coloured masking tape do you can see more easily as you approach the stop point 2 clamp a piece of wood to the side of the door or frame which needs routing and that will keep the router level and not make a deeper gouge when you til the router out of level. Good work
I went for the Makita set about 2 weeks ago as I was already heavily invested into their batteries. I am new to using routers so the timing of this video is great - thank you Charlie.
Ah, nice one Mat. That's the one my carpenter mate John has and he loves it! It'll be a game changer for your DIY. That big DeWalt in my vid sat in a box unused for the first few years I owned it and then I started dabbling with it and have never looked back. The 1/4 inch is a much more versatile tool though so you'll love it. See if you can get yourself a router set to get you started. I got a lovely little kit from Screwfix years ago in a wooden box - I think it's Trend but branded Screwfix. They don't sell it now but there are loads out there.
@@CharlieDIYte I have bought a Trend starter set - the Makita 18v router came with a 6mm & 8mm Collet - these would not fit the 1/4" Trend bits so I had to buy another Collet. It seems very good so far and now every project no matter how small gets a bit of routing on it! Next small project it to tart up a small plain ikea table by routing top & legs.
@@CharlieDIYte I would be tempted to mount your old DeWalt router into a router table now so that you get the best of both worlds.
Instead of a round handle lock we went with a lever style (35 years ago)... easier to open when you are carrying things and found it easier to use for young children in their early years. Cheers from Nashville!
Yes that makes perfect sense. Also with a lever, you don't have to worry about the wider backset. Humbled that my vids are getting all the way to you guys. Massive thanks for watching 👍
@@CharlieDIYte I have always enjoyed the Brits... back to the 90's when I was over-seeing a distribution facility in Corsham (Wiltshire)... what I wouldn't do to enjoy a Wadworth 6X right now... I miss those days...
Also very helpful for occupants at the other end of the age scale. Much new housing here in Japan uses levers for interior.
Straightforward video, all killer, no filler
Thanks James 👍
Charlie, just Done my doors today and whipped up a plywood jig the size of the hinge and used a flush cutter it was a so quick and simple once completed. Three hinges per door not 6 an 9 though as I was avoiding previous filled rebates. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Kenny. Yes, that time spent making the jig is so worth while. 👍
Hung loads of doors and lucky enough to have the Makita, but never crossed my mind to chisel the edge first , great idea and will be doing this next time , thanks mate
Sharp Stanley knife around the hinge or lock first slightly angled underneath, router out then just flick the corners out wiyh a knife, far easier than chisels and neater than pencils :)
I can recommend the use of a corner chisel to square out the rounded corners of the rebate left by the router bit. The Trend one can be found on many UK web sites for £12 to £25.
Thanks for reminding me, I knew there was something I had to get but couldn't remember what it was.
Had one of those Ryobi trim router, there great but I’ve now upgraded to dewalt 18v plunge router. I always cut my outlines of the hinge with a new Stanley knife blade as you router it just falls away.
I believe the small collar is to hold dremel bits. Nice video. I'm planning to buy a Router and you absolutely helped a lot.
I think the small collet is actually for euro bits. There are some comments confirming this if you scroll down.
Awesome tips on this video. And agree with others that you manage to get excellent results without the expensive and expansive tool set
Thanks - I really appreciate that. I'm doing a similar thing on my current wardrobe build bit.ly/3oE7Vm8 👍🏻
GREAT Charlie, you are better than some of the Pro's I've seen !!!.
Aw, thanks Brian!
I bought a Ryobi trim router and it is a good tool. I have Dewalt and Ryobi power tools. Some Dewalt tools are very expensive. Over twice the price of Ryobi
Thanks Charlie, nice video, had the router for over a year, it’s great, made some nice jigs by removing the Perspex base and attaching directly such as circle jigs etc, 👍
That's good to hear Richard. Yes they've put a lot of thought into this one and in yet to find fault with it. I like your point about changing the base. What's the benefit of swapping a square base for the Makita style circular one?
Charlie DIYte hi, sorry I was clear, I remove the current base only for my jigs, just makes it easier to attach circle cutting jig and others using the 4 screws that hold the standard base.
Great video Charlie. I've used Wealden Tool router cutters for many years. Good quality, a fair price and last a long time
Thanks Dave. I agree, and as you say, they're a very fair price. I've just bought a new bit from them in a quarter inch shank as I have the half inch version but my big old DeWalt router is going to be too big and unwieldy for the work. Love this little trim router!
I use a black and decker wm450 as a door block holder works nice and I put all door gadgets in that box I would have hung the door the other way also the door blocks the light as you open it maybe you had a switch on the wall that enabled you nice neat video thanks you come across easy to watch and clear and not annoying lol
Thanks Kevin. Yes that looks like a nice storage box that Black and Decker 👌 We thought about rehanging the door but there was a light switch as you say and my wife didn't like the idea of walking out of the door with the stair case so close to the entrance.
I knew about half of those tips. Very impressed, very practical and very useful.
Thanks, I appreciate that, oh anonymous one 👍
First to comment. Im not going to hang a door now or the near future. I just love your videos. Some of the best on youtube. Thanks.
Thanks so much, mate. Really appreciate that 👊
I’m putting up a garden gate next week so this was perfect timing thank you.
Nice vid Charlie, mark around the hinge in the first place with a knife, that is of corse after shooting the door into the opening and marking the position of the top of the top hinge the top of the bottom hinge of the with a chisel indent 👍😷
Great video. Can I suggest you use a knife to mark out the hinges. Gives a nice tight line and also helps prevent splitting out.
Thanks Jamie. Yes, I think you're right. The old school methods are always the best 👍🏻
Recently changed all the doors at my home without any door clamps/stands - I found that F Clamps are perfect for standing doors, I use a couple of 900mm steel Irwin, the heads hold the door upright and have heavy enough bars to stop them falling (I used a 3rd clamp in the opposite direction in the middle for the first door but didn't really need it so I just used the 2 on the other 9 doors)
..also - on a few episodes of New Yankee Workshop (a few years ago now) Norm was using round ended hinges, lock plates etc. so they could easily be cut in with a router (he even cut half moon shaped hinges in with a biscuit cutter in a few episodes) but I have never found this hardware - ever!
Great work Gary. Using F clamps is ingenious 👍🏻
Thanks so much for this video, brilliant tips, piloting of the hinge screws can be done with a hinge pilot bit, i love mine. Thanks again
Thanks buddy. Yes I've now got one of those, from Trend 👍
6mm collet so you can use 6mm shank router bits or CNC milling bits (or even a 6mm drill bit for perfectly perpendicular holes when plunging, although not with the Ryobi). I have the ER20 7mm/6mm collet in my bench router which means I can use 6mm shank or 1/4" shank in the same collet. Swap it for the ER20 1/2" collet for the 1/2" bits.
I was on the fence about this Ryobi router for months exactly because it had no plunge facility and I really wasn't sure if I would use the plunge or not, having never had a trim router before. Eventually I went for the wired Katsu Makita clone for half the price of the Ryobi, now I can see that I really will use the plunge facility so the plunge attachment for the Katsu will bring it up to the cost of the Ryobi (about an extra £15 more for the Makita plunge base) ... but it'll have plunge ability.
Hi Charlie! I just wanted to say a massive thank you to you for ALL of your videos. I bought my first house back in August last year and it's a bit of a fixer-upper. I've been trying to get lots of DIY done during lockdown, but as an absolute beginner I need to take the extra time to learn all of the processes. Your videos have helped me hugely, and no doubt has helped many, many other DIYers (and probably professionals!) as well.
Thank you once again for your valuable content - I hope you and your family are doing okay during the lockdown.
I used a sharp stanly blade to cut a line on the hinges as opposed to a pencil. Then run a pencil over the cut line so it’s easy to see. When you route it makes a super clean line for the hinges.
Yes that's very good thinking 👍
Been doing this for at least 10 years, Makita with a side fence will do the job.I scribe edge of hinge on door first, then route and finish off with a sharp Chisel.
Nice tools, Makita 👍
Hi have you thought about obtaining the corner chisel for the hinges and another one for when your drilling out the screw holes. You can also buy self center drill bits you put your hinge in place and the self center bits follow the countersink of the hinge.
Thanks James. I have a corner chisel that I bought recently for an outdoor seating build that's coming in the spring. That and the self centre drill bits would definitely be worth buying particularly if I was fitting a lot of these.
Wow, a wealth of very useful tips - excellent video!
Thanks 👊
Alri Charlie mate. Great tips there.. I just bought my 1st router this week. It was a bit daunting at 1st but I run bigger machines than these little yokes so it was easy to understand. The collets were the weirdest part for me at the start.. I finally got them worked out. That Ryobi is a sweet piece of kit. I'll be getting one of them soon too. I got the bigger plunge router but I'm get used to it.
Good work, mate. Yep I've got the 1/2 inch shank DeWalt. Personally I'd never go back to it now I've got the little trim router. There aren't many jobs it can't do as you may have seen on my wardrobe build ruclips.net/video/lXs-4iXO874/видео.html
This is exactly how I’ve started doing my doors! Unfortunately didn’t think of it when I did 15 doors in a mates house 🤦🏻♂️ my next step is to try using a home made jig and a barring guided bit. Top work bud and great video 👍
Thanks mate 👍
Brilliant idea on the door rebates Charlie, save me buying any jigs, thanks.
Thanks Nigel. 👍
Cracking video Charlie, I'm about to do a lot of this in my house 😂
Thanks. Glad you found it useful 👍
Another interesting video, thanks Charlie! I'd recommend getting a black plastic latch box keep - this will hide the bare wood in the latch plate seen at 12:06 :)
Great call out. I’m about to replace my internal doors and was wondering if these existed and what they’re called. Thanks 🙏🏻
Absolutely brilliant Charlie....all the best mate ..
Thanks James 👊
I keep saying to myself I’ll get one for work.... but then I always end up using my chisels and think do I need one!?? But you can use them for so much more so I guess I should really buy one. I’d probably go makita only due to the fact all my other tools are makita and the blue boxes look all nice and matching in the van haha. But that’s me being ocd lol! Nice video mate. House coming along nicely now!
Marc, you owe it to yourself to get the Makita. It will make your life so much easier. My carpenter mate John has the Makita and loves it. Does all his hinge and latch rebating with it.
Thanks Charlie. Can't believe that Ryobi don't do a UK version for their door hinge and latch jig
Another really useful vid. The Ryobi stuff is great value for DIY-ers like me who can’t justify the much higher prices for pro gear
I'm still loving this tool. Used it this weekend here ruclips.net/video/lXs-4iXO874/видео.html
Great video. I have that router as well and use it all the time. Quick tip, when you have all you support for the hinge clamped on, pop a cross piece on the top and bottom of the cut to define your height limits as well. Makes it easy to repeat the cut as well.
Good point Warren. It's a fab little tool isn't it. I'll be featuring it quite heavily this week in this video series ruclips.net/video/R1dKybdYyY8/видео.html
with an improvised wedge shaped bed to cut angled grooves for LED lighting in our new wardrobes.
@@CharlieDIYte Looking forward to it
Fantastic video Charlie it’s clear and precise that’s a fantastic piece of kit mate
Thanks James. Yes I can't really find anything wrong with it. Just wish I had pointed out that for Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee users there's a battery adaptor you can buy for £20 so you can use your existing batteries with it - as I explained in my recent glue gun vid.
Great job and well explained as usual Charlie. If I had more than a couple of doors to do, I think that I would invest the time and make a router jig for the hinges and latch. Also, most doors in the states have three hinges....all the more work and reason to make a jig.
Thanks. Yes, agreed. That Ryobi template jig is meant to be pretty good.
i love this profession the most because it is nice ,clean & one can make good living out of it if he know properly and i like the aroma of the wood (the 2nd one is auto mechanic) the only issue is the cost of the tools.
i had to play your video @ 0.75 speed to really understand it as im not a native english speaker. i like your videos..(not by that lady in ultra short 'shorts' which is to get more views. this is my opinion)
6mm is just the standard metric shank you get a lot in Europe. You can get them in the UK pretty easily for the popular cutting profiles.
Mank thanks for that. Done a few rebates with chisels but somewhat variable, so router the way to go. Another video with a bit more on how to line up the door, and correct any errors, e,g. Twists would be good. Hopefully they will all send you a router now so you can doba compare video. Thanks for simplifying routers for the uninitiated.
When marking for hinges etc, I prefer to use a Stanley knife or scalpel - to avoid pencil kerf. It leaves a well visible line and is also useful later on when you hit it with the chisel.
IMO the inexactitudes which come from marking with pencils are widely underestimated.
Cannot believe how good the Ryobi router is for that price. its making me wonder now if i should buy a Makita DRT50 ZX4 Router or go for a Ryobi or ask the wife if if i am allowed to treat myself to a Milwaukee. Is Ryobi like bosch, you buy at a cheap price (thinking use it and throw away if it breaks) but you end up having it for a very long time as it refuses to break.
Exactly Alex. I've got loads of Ryobi from drills to site lamps, chain saws to leaf blowers and not a single thing has broken yet. The chuck on the combi drill I've had about 7 years is on its way out. That's about it. You know if you have Bosch, Milwaukee or Makita or DeWalt batteries already you can get a badaptor on eBay for £20 to use your existing batteries with the Ryobi. Check out my glue gun vid ruclips.net/video/idmmDRM3x0A/видео.html for further info (I'm annoyed I forgot to mention it).
Such a helpful video. Only thing I wonder is how do you transfer the hinge measurements from the door to the frame?
Best way is to offer the door up to the frame with the hinges attached, raising it off the floor with a glazing packer or a few coins/ folded cardboard or whatever you have to hand and then mark the position of the hinges on the frame with a pencil.
when you do the door hinge side if you connect your two bits of timer with cross bars at the right position you would have built in stops for the router. combine this with the right over hangs to position the hinge 6 inch from the top or 9 from the bottom you could avoid the need to mark anything on the door. simply put the top of the jig level with the door top. route the top hinge then slide the jig down so the other end stops level with the bottom, clamp and route it out. no marking needed. just a thought.
Yes I think that's a good point Billy. Particularly if you're hanging doors all the time in the day job.
Thanks for this, I have been a bit dubious about using a trim router for doing hinges, you made it look nice and simple. Definately giving this a try next time and the 2 pieces of scrap for a more scure work area was a stoke of genius
Thanks mate. It really is, definitely recommend you give it a try 👍
Another great video Charlie and well explained gonna get myself one of these cheers mate thanks for posting
You're welcome James, thanks for the comment. 👍
I think you get 1/4 inch and 6mm collet because if you buy router bits in different countries that use metric or imperial you get a slightly different size, there is 0.35mm difference between the metric and imperial bit shank.
Thanks. That makes sense 👍
Just discovered your page...just so many great hints and tips. Fab vid, thank you
Again, some great tips as usual. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post your tutorials..
Just so good. I want to change the swing direction of my living room door and had no idea where to start. This is very helpful. Any tips on how to fill in old rebated gaps in a door? (As I change the swing everything switches side so I'll end up with holes all over the old side) thanks again for such helpful video.
Cut some patches from wood to fill the gaps, glue them in, fill and sand then paint.
Funnily enough that's exactly what I had planned with this door, except I wasn't going to change the swing direction. I was going to flip the door round so I had a fresh platform to cut the hinges and tubular latch into. So I filled the hinge rebates and tubular latch and then realised that because the old Victorian door opening is so asymmetric, I couldn't flip the door round so all my hard work was wasted! To fill the hinges just use two part wood filler and gradually build it up, and sand with 120 grit sand paper wrapped around a bit of wood or 3m sanding block until flat. For the tubular latch, get a piece of pine or other wood and hack it to roughly the right shape (tap it end on with a chisel) and when you're done tap into the hole previously filled by the latch itself. Doesn't have to be exact. You're basically filling the hole as best you can to give the filler something to press up against when you fill the holes where the door handle spindles went in. The once you've tapped it in, again, hit it with the two part wood filler. Hope that helps but drop me another line if you've got any questions. 👍
Charlie DIYte that makes a lot of sense and seems really simple. Thanks
Mark around the hinge with a Stanley blade not a pencil. Its far closer in accuracy and leaves a small indent groove for your chisels to follow and leaves you with perfect chisel lines that fit the hinge perfectly. The router is great for getting out the bulk though. Solid video.
Thanks Rob. I agree it's by far the best way to mark the hinges, and it's the way I did it in this video ruclips.net/video/_DyA6X2tK_o/видео.html 👍
Best explanation ever seen
Thanks Greg 👊
Nice video, you just got yourself a new subscriber!
Hey, that's great news. Massive thanks, I really appreciate it 🙏👍
Thanks Charlie, hanging door tomorrow and offcuts will be used for trimmer👍
Great job mate. Can you do a video on installing intumescent strips, either in the door or in the panel? I am required to do this to most doors in the house since our loft conversion.
I would but haven't got a call for our in the cottage right now - although I'll need to put some new doors in the kitchen refurb in a few months. This trim router would be the perfect tool for that. 👊
Great video. I think the Trend corner chisel makes a quick and easy fix for sharp corners. My trim router has a solid base to will be making a perspex one after this :)
Thanks for the great tips mate! It's a big deal for novices like myself!
6mm to use with CNC bits, it's quite handy
Great video well explained Charlie! Just recently changed some doors wish that i`d seen this sooner!
Thanks John. I'm sure you did a great job 👍
Hey Charlie.
Thanks a million for your very informative series of videos. Love your channel.👌
I've been doing maintenance for more than ten years and I must say, I've learnt a lot from your channel. Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Regards
Tyrone
Hi Tyrone, thanks so much for that. Humbled you've found my videos useful mate - thanks for supporting my channel all this time 👊
Hi Charlie, Thank you for video footage of the correct way to fit door hinges. Thank you also for assessing your router. I'm looking at buying B+Q's own make of router, called McCallister, I think? It looks a fair bit more cumbersome than your's. However, I'm not going too far away from a plug, so plenty of juice. I also need to be able to sink the cutter deep as poss. Any thoughts or advice would be gratefully accepted, Thank you.
Good luck with your future endeavours mate, Ian.
Ps, I won't be using the router 24/7, Thank you.
Hi Ian. You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment! I think the first review on the website sums it up. If you're a pro whose going to use it a lot look elsewhere but for occasional DIY use it's perfect. So I'd go for it on that basis. You could spend another £30 on the Bosch but for what you're intending to use it for I think it'll be fine 👍🏻
I'm a chippy Charlie really like watching your content keep up the gd work mate
Thanks Chris. Really appreciate that, mate, particularly coming from someone in the business. 👊 Have you got one of these or something similar?
@@CharlieDIYte hi Charlie I've got a big router but don't use it on doors I just do my locks and latches with a drill and chisels I'm 42 years old . Once you've worked on a building site on new houses and you've done a few houses you get good with a chisel doesant take long I prefer locks and latches spade bit and chisel
Iv just seen you in a advert ! I’ve bin watching your channel for a time, “ the bin primer “ perfect , mate , airasol, to finish skirting, MDF, perfect."..
A great and simply explained video, top job Charlie
Great video Charlie. I had no idea that Ryobi (and other manufacturers) make a cordless trim router.
Thanks mate. I've got to say I can't fault it right now and you can buy a "badaptor" on eBay to use your existing Bosch, DeWalt, Makita or Milwaukee batteries with it. Annoyed I forgot to mention that, but for more info on them, check out my recent glue gun video 👍
Perfect timing for me I'm just about to do this! Thanks
Have you got anything on fitting intumescent strips to internal fire doors? I can't seem to find any decent guides.
I haven't, David but you'd definitely be able to use this tool for the routing, using the sled that comes with it. There was quite a bit of routing in this vid ruclips.net/video/lXs-4iXO874/видео.html
Brilliant content. As usual! 👍
Thanks 👍
Excellent video and tips. Cheers
Cheers Charlie. Another nifty video, and a very interesting little router.
If your going to use the same hinge make a jig and buy a corner chisel ? Did you slip on the door face ?
No, the door face was a complete battle ground, owing to the fact that it fell over in the room a few times when renovating, landed on stuff and got damaged. I've filled it in multiple places.
Hi Mate, great video, we have 6mm router bits in Switzerland Obviously an arm and a leg but hey ho the Alpinegeordie plods on !
Good work Bill. Studied up in Newcastle back in the day. God's own country 😉👊
😢great job, nice, easy & precise instructions
Thanks 👊
Good video bud . May invest in one of those . I Hate chopping hindges 😫
How does the doors look today? I would really like to see how you have cleaned up the added parts of the doors and how it all hangs and looks. :)
I think is fantastic toool to have on my tool box.
Excellent video. Very well explained. Thanks
Hi Charlie, I'd like to fill in the hinge slots of a doorway where there used to be a door, do you have any tips on how to go about this to make a near perfect finish? Thanks
Hi Neil. Yes, I'd get a tub of 2 part wood filler - something like this amzn.to/3eXDzI6 and gradually build it up - you mix it on a piece of perspex or wood - whatever you've got lying around. Get a continental filler knife set to apply it with and maybe some Stanley knife blades to scale the filler off the filler knife after each run, to keep it clean. You can then sand it down with some sandpaper wrapped round a block of wood. Maybe take off the majority with 80 or 120 grit, moving up to 180 or 240 for the final smooth. It will be an invisible repair when you've finished. I did a video on using this stuff way back bit.ly/3ejwMd1 but it's got cheesy music throughout unfortunately.
Charlie, the best door stand I have seen is with 2 clamps at the bottom of the doors sticking out in opposite directions :-) try it out!
Clever! Yes I'll definitely try that 👍
Very interesting and helpful 🤚👍👏😎
You're welcome Anthony. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
I’m looking at internal doors at the moment as I’m about to start the halls and stairs. I’d be interested in your take on what doors you’re thinking of. Like you I’ve got hollow doors and just want rid, so I just want some good quality replacements.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing
You're welcome Mike. Thanks for the comment. 👊