High Speed Video Testing Amazon Carabiners vs their Claims
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 май 2024
- Best finisher overall: amzn.to/47uJluW Best by weight: amzn.to/3GjUToM Best by cost (climbing): amzn.to/47sMvj0 Best by cost (not climbing): amzn.to/3GgLNJu
Today we test climbing carabiners off Amazon and some carabiners that you probably shouldn't climb with. Which is which? Only one way to find out! Blow them apart in high speed of course. 
Авто/Мото
We're replicating this style of minimum breaking strength / MBS test here: ruclips.net/video/PbBigMyKJYA/видео.html
Shout out to @HowNot2. Sometimes like with lasers and stun guns we only barely get into topics you guys have requested that channels like these have become leaders in. Head on over there to more learn more about carabiners and climbing gear in general! Here's more stock photo shots from that day: www.dreamstime.com/photos-images/mountain-climbing-anchor.html
Tite reach has released new impact rated units for your testing pleasure!
Was hoping there was some connection. Always sweet when your favorite channels randomly collaborate.
For those interested, HardIsEasy also has very good testing and informational climbing content.
Love what you guys are doing!
Consumer Reports could learn a lot from you... 😏
When I saw the thumbnail I actually thought it was a video by @hownot2! I'm subbed to both
This is the strangest How Not 2 video I've ever seen.
Same thought...
I was incredibly confused when I heard the voice 😅
i swore it was a hownot2 video in my subscriptions
I feel like these dudes should get together and come up with some good ideas
Now I want to see if they tested any of the same ones to see how close each of the test rigs are to each other. Be a great comparison episode if they intentionally did a whole episode of the same stuff. Now I want TTC to test soft shackles , webbing loops and off-road recovery products.
A wise man once said "spend as little as possible on equipment where your life is at risk"... Right before plunging to his death
😆
More like "A wise man said once..." 🙂
And that man's name was Stockton Rush.
The question is can you afford the hobby, safely. Buying "the best" won't keep you any safer if your belayer fails, or you neglect to tie in correctly. I picked a margin of safety I was comfortable with and bought the lightest and most functional to my needs. Turned out it wasn't near the most expensive, and all from trusted brands. But almost all the aluminum forgings come from china now, be it pistons, biners, or billets.
Yes, I'll trust my life to a product manufactured in a country that doesn't value human life very much.
It'd be interesting see how shock loading vs the gradual application of force affects the results.
Check out hownot2 for that he has a drop tower that he has started to build.
@HowNot2 has tons of videos showcasing different failure modes for carabiners and all kinds of other climbing gear! Go check it out!
According to hownot2, not much difference
Was thinking the same. These are rated for a shock load not continous.
First thing I thought.
The “slap the carabiner in the palm of your hand” out-of-the-box quality test was the most valuable to me.
Yeah I think most of us do that slap it a few times if it feels cheese you get a different one.
For those of you who don’t know what he is doing. This simulates the carabiner knocking against the rock, as the gear is being rattled around by the climber’s movement and to see if it would cause the carabiner gate to open.
I was taught that if you are using a non-locking carabiner, you should use two and face the gates in opposite directions so if you bumped into something both gates would not open.
thats also how climbers sometimes set up a top anchor to use for climbing, you use two locking carabiners, and face the gates opposite directions to avoid any chance of them opening
I don't think I've ever seen someone climb with non locking
@@ohyou_6599 it depends on what youre doing. sport climbing, you use those wire gated ones on quickdraws, which get attached to the bolts as you climb, and you clip you rope in to them. for top rop climbing, someone builds an anchor on top using slings and locking carabiners, usually, and the person on the ground has a belay device that they use to slow the climber, usually attached to their harness with another locking carabiner
just cause the gate opens doesnt mean anything... if theres tension on the lines theyre not going to void physics to jump out of the opening, and the gates arent required to give adequate strength in any sort of typical situation... if you weight 300lbs and fall 30 ft sure you need everything to be tip top.. but 300lb people arent the bulk of climbers
@@AndrewBrowner I checked a few carabiners, and with the gate closed it’s rated at 24 kN and open it drops 8 kn. I wouldn’t call that nothing.
I regularly wear fall-arrest equipment for work: massive steel carabiners, heavy nylon harnesses, and thick lanyards. I'm curious to see how they would hold up in these tests.
How not 2 has all the videos you need
It's nutty how heavy our gear is compared to climbers, especially considering how often it gets relied on.
@@-tr0n And that's not even counting the weight of the tools either! But then again we're not scaling whole mountainsides. Also the company buys the PPE to avoid liability and we'd get fired if we're caught without it.
I think they would perform phenomenally well, as I imagine the safety factor is just higher for kit used in industry. To incorporate the additional use, wear, maybe even abuse, it will receive.
If it is Miller they left Franklin, PA and moved production to Mexico. 😡
Would've been interesting to see what happened to the steel one if you kept loading after the gate broke. Some of the failures were catastrophic and would certainly result in loss of function, but some of the gate failures would still have held some kind of load.
that one broke so easy because it has a tiny hinge pin . it's not for climbing or lifting anything. just for stupid stuff like plastic chain in a theater or something like that.
Once the gate breaks, the strength is drastically reduced. The reason it didn't fail catastrophically is became the hydraulic cylinder is somewhat "displacement controlled" It didn't continue applying the load once the carabiner yielded over some distance. If he was hanging weights from them (they are not displacement controlled), they would have failed catastrophically once the gate failed.
Seems hownot2 came up a lot here but having more data from another source seems like a good thing to me. Consider a collaboration tho, it only helps the channels and spread the information.
It's a great way for us to discover good channels, really. Posting different categories we briefly test like this and you guys pointing them out. Been watching for a 1/2hr and this is good stuff!
The Carabiners we used on our fall arrest safety harnesses were rated at 54 kn (costed about $100 each). They had a threaded gate, so when secured, the gate was affixed to the rest of the carabiner through a thread collet. Not saying I would want a stack of them on my hip while climbing, but it's nice to know that the harness was way over built.
well ya . in rope access and arborist work they use strong heavy steel carabiners for rigging and light ones for the rest and weak alluminium ones for holding tools .
Would love to see some pro brands represented up here for reference. I'm thinking Petzl, Fusion Climbing, DBI Sala. Back when I was a climber for radio towers, we were moving almost exclusively to the auto double or triple lock style of carabiners. The wire and screw lock types weren't allowed to be used for personal safety at all.
HowNOT2 does this they have a better testing rig
Sounds like good thinking. I much prefer the double/triple lockers unless it''s semi-permanent. Seconded on looking up HowNot2 here on YT.
I'd call Camp pro level. My fall arrest harness is made by them. I'm surprised that the test here showed a failure below the rating. Almost makes me wonder if it was a fake.
Pretty sure BD, Camp and Trango are "pro brands"
@@adaycjIt was bought on Amazon, chances are good it was a fake. They've got a lot of counterfeits of just about everything.
I’m no EXPERT but I have professional climbing experience as well as rope access training, and I’d just like to say thank you for making this video. While there are a few minor technical mistakes (mainly dealing with fall factors and the nuances of kilonewtons vs static lbs), I really appreciate you making videos like this. There aren’t many high quality videos that actually show the dangers of mislabeled and sketchy carabiners, and the language that is used around them. Especially showing how a well engineered aluminum carabiner far out performs a cheap steel one. One thing I’d like to suggest in future tests would be to have the connection to the carabiner be a soft connection, as most are rated to perform only with a certain diameter piece of hardware going through them, which is often webbing or rope. Obviously this is not how they will be used all the time in the real world, but it may help to standardize the physics around the connection. Loved your videos and I really appreciate everything you all do!
It also needs to be done in one pull. Just look at the Camp Photon: when they maxed out, that biner was clearly very badly damaged before they reset to do their second pull on it. If I saw one looking like that, I'd stop and do whatever is needed to get it out of the system right then.
That test was about like doing crash safety tests progressively harder on the same car: once you've smashed the crumple zones enough and popped the airbags, of course it's nowhere near as safe for subsequent impacts.
@@kd5nrh Comparing impacts to a pull is pretty disingenuous. Sure, it would be better to do it in one pull, but i dont think it affects the results too much.
@@banaana1234it effects the metal a lot actually, it heat tempers it and when the biner is allowed to cool the metal integrity will be compromised. Respectfully intended
doing multiple pulls instead of a single pull mostly shows that the metal has been fatigued to the point of plastic deformation. I'm not a smart man, but once you reach that point the question then becomes how much more force is needed to cause it to fail and it isn't like these carabiners have any sort of bounce or spring in them at that point. It would be nice for them to do another test with a rig that has a little more travel to prevent the need to reset though.
It would be great if you were speaking in pounds or kilograms. My home scale doesn't have kilonewtons. I have very little idea of what the heck is a newton.
The black diamond one is the only brand name that I recognize from when I used to go climbing, and the only one of these that seem like I would ever consider actually climbing with them or loading them for actual WORK would be the twist locks
Camp and Trango are also reputable climbing gear brands.
But the other problem with buying climbing gear on amazon is the amount of fakes that are sold as real gear.
Still wouldn't use an unknown brand, though. Even if a few specimen tested good, it's all about consistency.
Yeah, it only takes one single out of spec boy to make you take an infinite nap in the forever box
Honestly surprised the wire clasp part didn’t break or pull on any of them, I’d think the wire was weaker then the aluminum but tests like these always teach me something new.
The wire is spring steel. Tensile strength of around 200 ksi or more. The 7075 Aluminum of biners might be 70 or 80 ksi. But the bigger factor is the fact that the wire gates are placed in mostly tension while the Aluminum spine is placed in significant bending.
Wiregates are actually safer than non-locking solid gates, because they're less susceptible to 'gate flutter'.
Besides, solid gates use a steel pin at the hinge point, which isn't much thicker than the wiregate anyway.
Awesome test as always guys! Can you do a follow up video with branded climbing and safety gear from the larger known manufacturers like Petzl? Testing the strength on the hooking points on the climbing gear etc. has also been super useful. Since I really want to know how strong my work and climbing safety gear really is.
theres another youtube channel HowNOT2 that does this for climbing gear
There is really no doubt that the major manufacturers gear is going to easily meet it's rated strength. Petzl is one of the top manufacturers of climbing and rope access gear in the world, you really have nothing to worry about with them.
Besides your harness (if it's a climbing harness anyway) is only rated to 15kn, and your body would break long before that..
HowNot2 stares unapprovingly 😂
This video is super good enough tho 😅
The Black Diamond interested me the most, because I have their poles. It’s cool to see how strong their aluminum standards are.
You know it is going to be a wild ride when the ultra cheap chinese one not only meets its claims, but vastly exceeds them. I actually like these cheap aluminium ones, as keyrings. Very convenient to clip on and off a beltloop. That said, does look like I could actually use them for far more than that.
My concern and worry is about quality control and how they went about rating them...
Was this a "factory freak" that exceeded what the majority handle?
Did the manufacturer test a whole lot of them and then rated them based on the *weakest,* or, did they rate them on the _average?_
I'd feel safe if it was rated on the weakest, which would explain why this exceeded that by a huge degree.
Whereas, if rated on the average, I'd be worried for the safety of everyone buying these! 😟 _(the Safety Lottery, basically....)_
If you want some reliable ones that are still cheap, Metolius sells some 22kN rated and climbing certified carabiners for around $5. Reputable brand that’s well known in the climbing world, I use them for my keychain and on my climbing harness
"remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down"
So happy to see How Not 2 being referenced so much. Hopefully Ryan can collab together with him. Although TTC doesn't have a slack snap machine, testing the metal on metal is at least interesting. It's something to compare/contrast data.
The Black Diamond "Neutrino" (looks to be the model tested) are incredible carabiners! Ive used two of them to pull a stuck vehicle from deep snow and zero damage
Carabeaners for climbing or fall arrest purposes used at my work come with actual test sheets, and they do fall under the lifting appliance regime so these certificates are on file, and they are pull tested accordingly. One is seriously rolling the dice using uncertified lifting/climbing gear hanging their weight or expecting fall restraint to happen. Thanks TTC for the video as this helps brimg awareness of this issue to the masses.
This is quickly becoming my favorite channel. You guys always provide high quality information on products not normally covered by other RUclipsrs.
i would say given their possible use in climbing you should test multiple samples of each brand for consistency, as it only tskes 1 bad one to cauae somone to have a very bad day
I have those unijoy brand carabineers for basic stuff around the house. They hold a hammock, heavy tool bag, or potted plant just fine. And were super cheap when i found them on sale, I paid like $2 per piece. Glad to see they hold up as advertised.
I dont know if its the dulcet tones of your voice, the occassional, subtle humor, and/or the actual science/testing you do for all things, but, despite the fact ill never climb anything with said caribeeners, here i am.
That stock photo is really something interesting. For one, it's a via ferrata, so their main safety is through the (in this picture) yellow-black lanyard, the rest is only there to make a possible fall more comfortable/less risky (majorly simplified). While I agree not screwing a carabiner shut if it has that option, it's again clipped into a quickdraw, which doesn't even have that lock to begin with. Which, because of that other lanyard, is actually fine. Wo while they're definitely some strange things going on in that image, the screwgate isn't really that large of an issue.
And for anyone looking to get into rock climbing, please only get properly rated gear, it should have UIAA and CE markings (and I think the minimum is a 20kN rating)
EDIT: The gate open rating refers to the actual gate, the bar, being open (meaning there's lever action going on), the screw doesn't really add much strength (or shouldn't anyways)
The main issue with the situation in the stock photo is that the carabiner is partly open, due to it having been partly screwed shut when the rope was fed through it, and it being used for belay purposes. The other thing is the quick draw setup he's using to clip that carabine into, you'd only use quick draws to clip into bolts along the route, not for a belay or main anchor point. The dude himself is quite safe as he is, like you said, on a lanyard but his climbing partner is at risk of this carabiner or the quick draw failing and there is no redundancy. I would not climb with this guy.
"$5 Death Wish" is my favorite metalcore band
You guys should really test some bicycle/ mountain biking lights. Brands like NiteRider, Outbound Lighting, knog, Bontrager, or the crazy 12000 lumen Moneer by MagicShine would be a great place to start!
Stock photo also has the wire clips saddled backwards on the upper eye of the cable.
Oh, and it looks like there is an energy absorber that is generally only supposed to hook up to the dorsal D hooked up on the front of the harness. There is a lot going on there.
Id like to see shock loading. You could load a steel cable rig with ur enerpac with a trigger pin to simulate a fall. The elasticity of some of these shows it's ability to absorb impacts vs a static load. I maybe totally wrong about plasticity vs a more rigid material. Good video!
For the stock photo that was used, that was not rock climbing so the safety part is not quite as severe. That was on a via ferrata, where they have a guide wire attached to them and are walking/climbing on man made objects in the rock itself. It looks like they wanted it to look more like he was climbing, so he had attached to a QuickDraw (two carabiners with a strong fabric connecting them) in the wall and posed like he was helping someone. That’s in addition to his connection to the wire and most likely standing on rebar. Open carabiner is a big concern, but it looks like that was never an actual part of the safety system he was actually using.
Yeah the whole photo is staged probably with the briefing to "attach a bunch of slings and carabiners so it looks technical". Or maybe they are bolting the via ferrata. Either way, leaving the screw gate open like that is unlikely to be intentional and shouldn't be in a stock photo
Yea, the red biner is jammed open with the lock....
Also he is using a single draw as his top anchor which is 2 more non-redundant non-locking biners all inline.
The webbing he is actually hanging from is clipped with a locking biner that is not locked.
The rope he is pulling on is being routed over a rock edge on the other side of the pulley... Wait is that actually a grigri?
I'm not even a climber...
You're correct; it is a via ferrata situation and the guy belaying is probably just assisting someone or acting as a backup to reduce the chance of an injury if the climber should fall. He is not acting in a safety critical role as the via ferrata leashes will keep the climber from falling to their death.
You should test tower climbing carabiners next. Would prefer actual steel ones that are auto lock/auto close.
For a little insight into the stock photo you used, the climber is doing a route called a Via ferrata which is essentially a fully protected route where you mainly climb on metal holds which have been added to the rock, and it looks like he is at a belay station using a Petzl GriGri assisted braking belay device to belay up another climber. The locker on his GriGri should definitely be closed for added safety but when belaying up your second climber the most forces that carabiner is likely to see is around 1kn.
Thank you! I was scrolling looking for this since I know nothing about climbing except you go up and down so really wanted to know what was going on
Another fantastic video. With each test you guys perform, you are providing a wealth of information rarely found elsewhere. That and the discussion during the video is very funny.
Yessss! So glad you’re testing these. I watch a channel called “how not to” and he tests climbing equipment to breaking. So cool to watch stuff tested to failure. Thanks TTC! ❤️ 🙏
I have that oupeng sky one for attaching stuff to backpacks and also for weighted pull-ups. It always felt solid, glad to see it over performed when pushed (or pulled in this case) to the limit
I seriously thought hownot2 had posted
Interesting and a fun departure from tools. Thanks!
Do you know if the carabiner tests have an (iso?) standard of testing where they use non-malleable contact points (Such as metal eyelets as in your test) or malleable contact points (As in a dyneema rope or similar connected to the carabiner as an interim media, avoiding metal on metal contact). I ask because the malleable contact points will distribute the load over the molded contour along the interior of the carabiner, while the non-malleable will apply the pressure on the initial and much smaller interior contact points until the carabiner deforms against the steel eyelet. This difference may be significant enough to introduce micro-fractures during deformation and change the load results. I'm not a climber, just a pilot with an engineering degree, but I thought I would toss this out there for consideration of a future test for rope vs eyelet load bearing deltas. Thanks.
Will you guys consider testing 12v off road winches next? I know I don’t trust HF’s ratings!
Project Farm did some testing on 12V winches including one from HF.
None of them pull to their rating, that HF winch is actually pretty damn good and unbeatable when it comes to value for money.
Yall are amazing!! I love all the the testing!!! Keep it up!!
Probably elsewhere in the comments but as a ceramic engineer have you thought about the point-loading of the stresses from your eyebolts as opposed to rope to distribute the load a little? Also more situationally representative fwiw.
After a review, not convinced rope would make a big difference. Would definitely make the testing more than a little hairy at those loads 💀
Don’t forget in many situations at least one side of the carabiner will be on something steel in many cases, part of a harness, other equipment, anchors etc… so probably not an issue for their test I’d imagine
You guys are easily one of my favorite RUclips channels. Keep up the good work!
Loved this testing regime and the fun but valuable commentary.
Fascinating! Thanks for this test.
“from a lightweight aluminum grocery bag holder looking thing” is the most hilarious description of a carabiner that I’ve ever heard of x 10 and I’ve head all kinds of hilarious comments climbing and instructing over the years. Going to have to steal this phrase because it’s too funny to forget.
Future Suggestion - The abundance of hyped LED work lights available now from the aftermarket world that clip directly only standard batteries such as M18 / Dewalt / Blue Gang etc.... nice compact worklight idea but I think they are shooting the moon on lumens and also might not all over over-discharge protection for Li-Ion batteries. Love the value of your work and also the salty comments zingers :) be well.
Thanks for sharing hope everyone had a great thanksgiving
Good work and good call out. Keep it up please.
I guess I shouldn’t worry I only use those to hold my keys. Good stuff. Keep it up.
i think it heavily matters where your contact points are. for example the riozoiu seemed like the pulling rings were exerting force in a different direction than most other carabiners. the pulling ring on the right, locked into the curve of the riozoiu
I didn’t know i needed this. Thank you
One nice thing about some of them is that the failures weren't catastrophic, such as only losing the lip that holds the latch but not actually deforming enough to readily lose your ropes.
When they say "Rope Sports" they aren't just trying to dodge being listed as actual climbing gear but also trying not to get labeled as bondage gear which in most storefronts would be classified as "Adult Products" and thus something that wouldn't be allowed.
The commentary is always perfect in these videos
I feel like out of the aluminum wire carabiner the black diamond did the best, not even taking capacity in to account. If they all consistently broke at that point, it's still the safest one for climbing since it would still have the chance to be holding on tightly to the ropes. I'd be curious to see if that was a purpose built failure point or pure luck, since most of the others failed along the non gate side.
If you are making decisions based on how safe the unit looks "after" failure, that kinda misses the point. The primary criteria I would use would be is it ANSI/CE rated, is it the correct style/gate/material for the application, does it consistently match or outperform it's MBS, in the same pull scenario... does it break in a consistent manner, and personally is it from a brand established and trusted within the alpine/climbing/rope-access/SAR space?
@@clickykbd "does it break in a consistent manner" is pretty much what I was getting at. I am not a climber, and know nothing about it, so I was just looking at it from my own point of view, and since I usually try and think of all outcomes, including the worst, that's where I ended up.
As a professional tree serviceman, this test was FANTASTIC! Thank you so much for this. I risk my life every day with these "klikoneutron" stamped carabiners while having no idea what that means. Forces in pounds are easily understood. Metric is garbage.
Thanks for this video. I am very surprised that these devices didn’t fail to meet their claims, similar to the Amazon flashlights. I have purchased 5 or 6 of them. I used a locking carabiner to pull a drag harrow through a pasture with a tractor (not what it’s designed for) and was surprised to find it only had the anodized finish marred.
1:57 the misspelled "caranbiner" in the search really got me.
Really like this style of video!
I was hooked on this vid. Got roped into watching the whole thing. I was really pulling for the cheapo brands.
one of the times seeing a product do much higher than it is rated for is a relief and shows industry integrity.
"Don't be stupid" - first and much-needed belly-laugh of the day...
I think that testing various brands of breaker bars would be a nice thing to see. On that same note, extended ratchets (e.g. 18" 3/8" ones) since a lot of people use them as surrogate breaker bars. It would be nice to see what type of breaker bar has drive ends that are more durable, which ones flex the most/least when actually having torque applied to them, and all of that in reference to how big the actual head of the bar itself.
I work in a test lab and use tension/compression testers almost every day. Instron is the big name in that world. The instron universal testers have a open frame allowing you to test any size product, will graph force & displacement (stretch) automatically, has adjustable speed, and have seemingly unlimited settings to automatically capture any data points you’re looking for. They are on the pricey side, but you can find used testing equipment pretty easily on the internet and get big discounts.
I liked your new sphere tester for the flashlights and figured you might be interested in more “official” style testing equipment as you dive into new product categories. Keep up the good work, love the channel!
wow, another new dyno, you guys are killing it!
mode of failure is very important to me... some had a designed point of failure and some did NOT! There should Always be a designed point of failure with the rest of the structure remaining intact, so inspection and precautions can be taken.
Love this! Would be interested in Metroleus if you do it again.
Here's another suggestion: vehicle recovery gear (tow straps, kinetic energy ropes, soft and hard shackles...)
Video suggestion: can you test Crane rigging slings and straps? I recently bought multiple links, nylon, lifting, slings, and also some metal lifting slings off Amazon. It seems like a company named Vevor is the best option, so that’s mostly what I went with.
Thank you for all the great information and video content.
I climbed for a number of years in college and I can tell you that z clipping like that guy that fell in your video is terrifying
Love that you set this up!!!
Just to clarify: the non-locking carabiners are used for carrying gear and in quick-draws (two carabiners connected with a strap) which you use when lead climbing (bolted routes) or natural climbing (non-bolted routes). In all other cases like belay points and main anchor points you'd use locking carabiners and preferable two of them and with their gates on opposing sides.
The dude in the stock photo is an accident waiting to happen, he should have closed the gate and used two carabiners.
Already loving this series. Surprising results for sure! Makes me wonder if there are high end versions that are overpriced for what they do. I imagine there are other pieces of a climbing rig that could vary greatly!
fall factor is quite simple. Its the relation of the length of your rope to the position of your anchor. Fall factor 0 basically means you are hanging in your rope, right underneath the anchor, fall factor 1 means you are at the same height of the anchor(with some rope slack hanging down) and fall factor 2 means you are exactly above your anchor with the rope completely stretched out. Getting higher than fall factor 2 is not possible unless you have some sort of setup where you can fall further than the length of your rope in some way.
Had to modify an engine hoist one time but i bought double action snap hooks because I didn't trust carabiners since I had no rope experience outside of my stint in the service. Would be interesting to see if they were actually that much more strong
As some others have said, using non locking carabiners should be double with opposite facing gates. Though my opinion locking is always preferred.
your stock photo shows two separate carabiners without their retainers secured over the clip. So he is a true daredevil
Not surprised and very comforting that Black Diamond came out on top.
Stock photo guy is ok. It looks like he's rappelling / descending but I'm not 100% sure. It looks like the red one is connected to a Grigri so he can descend slowly and/or climb safely. The reason he's got the red one like that is so he can disconnect it from the Quickdraw (2 carabiners without gates on a short bit of webbing) one-handed. He's connected to the steel cable on the rock face with two other carabiners. So even if it failed completely he would not fall. You can see the one on the orange loop is tight, that's holding all his weight right now. Once he's done pulling the rope, he will reconnect the red carabiner to his harness loop and continue. Metal-on-metal is ok for that one, it's designed to be briefly connected to quickdraws and the like, then reconnected to the harness. When he's using it like this, there is very little weight on the red carabiner and the quickdraw, just the rope.
I think what is missing from your vid is the engineering, quality control and assurance that goes into the known brand carabiners that you trust your life to. The knock off ones have little of that, so you never know if you got one from a bad batch etc
The main reason everything is good is because of drop hammer forging. Once the Chinese caught on and started using huge drop hammers, no one could compete with their pricing anymore.
Great work Guy's
Single clip carabiners are only gear hangers. Triple locks are for climbing.
Honest comment: i work in aerospace designing tools (not power tools but custom tooling - think assembly tooling, test tooling, machine fixturing ext.. we do work with modifying some existing tools like wrenches and soem power tools as well)
Regardless, i worked on a project where we wanted to use a carribeaner to hold a 50lb housing. It was aluminum and rated hundreds of pounds (i dont remember the #, maybe 1500lbs?). The operator refused to use it saying aluminum was dangerous.... We sent it out to be tested and it hit 30% higher than advertised.
The iperator still saidnit was too dangerous because it would 100% break...
I still have nightmares over that guy and the giant custom fixture i had to design for him... That never got used because he got fired....
Locking gate carabiners don't add to strength when locked so long as the gate is closed. If you look at the opening you will see it doesn't have a notch for the gate to snap into, it just closes on a spring and a cylinder screws over it so it can't open. Some you have to manually screw shut, some have a rotating cylinder that snaps locked automatically.
Just a note for improvement in future videos: you should be using a load cell and displacement sensor.
The reason climbing carabiners are aluminum instead of steel is because we WANT them to stretch! (The amount they stretch) x (force) is the amount of energy they absorb.
In a fall, the carabiner isnt absorbing force - it's absorbing energy!
If you measure the force and displacement, then plot them together (where y is force or stress and x is displacement or strain), the area under the curve you plot is the amount of energy absorbed by the carabiner.
If one carabiner only holds 10 kN but stretches 4 cm and another maxes out at 30 kN and stretches 1 cm, the 10 kN absorbs more energy and saves you from a bigger fall!
So with a carabiner, more force does not necessarily mean more better!
Also, you had to adjust the test setup on the camp and the last carabiner because they stretched (which, again, we want them to do) You can't do that: you're in the plastic deformation range. You got a lower rating from the camp than you otherwise would have because of fatigue. You've got to test in a single go.
The fall factor is a ratio of the length of rope you’ve used in total against the length of slack rope when you fall. You fall the length of the rope between you and the last carabiner below you x2. This is because climbing ropes are dynamic, they stretch to absorb some of the shock load created by the fall. The lower the factor the less the shock load.
The fall factor = fall length / rope length
Nice test. It would be interesting to compare with the brand name products for the second round.
What a great test. I have some el cheapo ones, but I bought black diamond wire gates from a sporting goods store as they were the cheapest name brand ones I could find. I figured the name brand bought some safety and it certainly seems like they did well.
I only use these for my keys! 😊
Would love to see higher KN rated steel carabiners put through this test! I work as an uprigger for the local IATSE union, and we use steel carabiners pretty frequently in our line of work. Safety is number 1! Thanks!
Could you test proper climbing carabiners? Interesting to see their claims put to the test. Love the high speed. Great work.
We included some brands I've definitely seen on climbing gear before, but open to suggestions
Nice! Need to work on the lighting for the high speed though, it looked a bit dark that is all... I am quite impressed with many of these carabiners although I am surprised that the wire gate designs are so strong (just guessing by appearance and not knowing much about them...). I would have figured that you would need some kind of lock, or something more positive than a little spring force holding the wire gates closed. I learned a good bit here so thanks!
And If I can ask - what is one or 2 of your favorite flashlights? I have been buying them since Y2K (2000, the year all computers were supposed to stop working) got one from a brand called Litezall/Kodiak and so far it has been a great light. 1000lm in a very small pocket size light for like $15. Liked the brand enough to buy a couple others... saw that they sell them at scamazon but for whatever reason they are overpriced there.
HowNOT2 does tests like this and more - good channel
I love how you kept going back throughout the video and roasting the guy in the stock photo😂
Would like to see a much larger sample size per-unit here. Another channel did this test as well and the cheaper brands were inconsistent.
That stock photo looks, to me, like the locking sleeve is partly closed and thats resting against the nose, preventing it from closing completely, the locking sleeve needs to be in just the right spot to cause exactly this, slightly more open and it'd not hit the nose, slightly more closed and it'd catch the nose side-on and leave the gate wide open, but it happens fairly often. That belay device probably lives on that screwgate carabiner, as they should, and he's clipped it onto a quickdraw (a pair of carabiners connected by a short sling), probably to get it further from the wall or closer to him, metal-to-metal like that is fine and common in many situations, aluminium carabiner to steel like a belay bolt can damage the carabiner (which is why a quickdraw is different at either end (different style (bentgate/straightgate) or colour), and the way they're attached to the sling is different (one end is loose and the other stitched tighter)) so one of them is always the one used to clip to steel, like belay bolts, and you can keep an eye on it over time and retire it if it starts showing damage.
I'd be very surprised if anyone uses any of these unknown-brand carabiners for actually climbing (a piece of equipment you are trusting your life to isn't a piece to save money on!) but it's interesting to see how well some of them are doing, especially for potential non-climbing uses 👍👍
Notice how the majority of them fail in a way that maintains the hold first, so a climber can notice the failure before it becomes fatal. I don't know how often that's going to save someone's life, but still, impressive design.
I love this channel so much