Stick Welding Square Tubing
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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In this video I am going to be demonstrating Stick Welding Square Tubing. I chose to stick weld (SMAW) the tubing, because of the thickness of the walls and also because the application of the tubing will require it to hold a lot of weight. I also feel like I needed to provide a practical application for using stick welding and I think this project fits nicely.
I hope you will enjoy the video, and if so, please hit the "Like" button after watching. Also, don't forget to subscribe to my RUclips Channel so you can be updated whenever I post a new video.
Take Care,
Dan
The welder in me says "looks good" but the engineer in me says "take the extra time to add some gusset bracing underneath". You'll be glad you did.
+BigRalphSmith I had considered it! Thanks for the comment.
+WeldFever It may not be needed if it isn't holding a lot of weight.
PotatoGunsRule
I'm glad you aren't designing bridges, buildings, or cars.
+BigRalphSmith He's using 7018 rods that hold with something like 70,000 psi. He's using pretty beefy stock at 3/16x2x2 inches of square tubing that isn't very long in length. Per the video ending, he doesn't have a lot on there.
Thanks for the little insult though, people with made up names on youtube can't seem to disagree without getting personal.
PotatoGunsRule
You'll live.
I'm wondering why you didn't grind off the millscale first. I've seen bend tests fail due to lack of fusion from not cleaning millscale, even running hot with 6010. I understand if it's not really a critical piece . . . just curious.
Awesome job!
Has anyone ever hear of the MILIMETRE? It is quite a new thing and eliminates the use of fractions of this and that.
Nothing wrong with the metric system. We probably should adopt it.
+Marius Grobler the man who pays has 1 drawing imperial and 1 metric. the 2 parts must be connected together and the 2 surfaces are pentagons that will face each other.... Go Ahead and build it!
that is why to learn everything.
+Marius Grobler I'm European and I much prefer fractions. The Americans have the right idea on this one.
Paul Frederick Absolutely. Besides, the metric people are only fooling themselves. They are still operating on fractions, only they artificially limit themselves to denominators of 10, 100, 1000, etc. Why not use 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, etc too?
Also an advantage of inches and feet is that they are anthropometric. They are ideal for use for things on the human scale, like houses, tools, nails, etc. I've never heard a European carpenter talk about "putting up some 38x89 studs with 100 mm nails", that would be stupid. Everyone knows what a two-by-four is, even in Europe.
Paul Frederick the Navajo code talker's helped defeat the Japanese!
Hey. I been wanting to take up welding to add to my hobby and love of custom motorcycles i wanted to know if u can tell me what size stick welder amps n volts and what kind of rod i should use for welding a frame together
awesome brother thanks a lot ima give it a try
Chino. Paul is right, but depending on the metal used for the frame there many options. If it were mild steel and I just need to fix something to get me going again and all I had was a arc welder.... I would 3/16" 7018 up to 85 amps depending on metal thickness. I would have it tig welded for best results though
3/16'' is far too large. I think you meant to say 3/32'', the amperage is about right, but yes Paul is right.
hahaha yeah 3/32. Thanks for correcting that.
hi how are you what are your specs? what rod, rod thicknes, amperage, DC AC ? Thanks!
I know you're just making a video to inform new welders, but the 7018 electrode isn't stronger than the ER70S (chem comp)... They are both rated 70,000 tensile strength.. I'm guessing what you meant was the stick process penetrates better than the mig process here?
+Jacob Hohn Yes, you are correct. I only wish I had been more specific when I made the comment, as I have had many posts regarding this and some people have gotten pretty upset over it!
Dang... Some people take things too seriously. Didn't read comments or I'd have left it alone. Just didn't want an informative video to have bad info to beginners. All good man! Have a nice night
+Jacob Hohn Thanks for that and please keep watching and commenting!
+Jacob Hohn Truth be told; GMAW has transfer styles available to it that far exceed SMAW's penetration; such as spray arc transfer. SMAW is (according to the AWS) the same as GLOBULAR transfer. Most GMAW transfer that you will see being done is short circuit transfer (this is identifiable by the fast crackle noise). The best penetration available is with FCAW and a CO2. The only reason someone would say that stick welding is stronger or more structurally trustworthy than a wire weld is because SMAW does not suffer from cold start and SMAW is slower deposition rate / more time spent controlling technique and walking the puddle / controlling the heat. - (GMAW seems fast to fill and does not allow enough time to be the one in control of base metal heating / puddle walking.) With SMAW, the end result must be a good looking weld as the OP states. a good looking weld usually IS a good weld. Sometimes penetration is the enemy. Like in this job. He was going to have too much heat and penetration and he had to employ technique to control heat toward radius of larger heat soak mass of big tubing rather than allowing the heat to blow out the end of the other piece. So penetration can be an enemy! With stick; here is where rod diameter selection comes into play. A 3/32" would be a good choice. It would have allowed slower deposition, more time to control heat and the ability to walk out a prettier bead with more reinforcement without oversoaking base metal before end of bead. The only reason I would have preferred SMAW over another process here is because after I welded it with stick myself, I know - because I did it - just exactly how well welded it really is. No mystery.
if you put a piece of 2x1/4" flat about 3" long to cap the ends it would look better. also the 1" sticking up would keep your stock from potentially coming off the rack when taking lengths off. also the gaping openings are dust and insect magnets. just sayn' bro.
Nice storage rack build. Thanks for demonstrating your welding.
Thanks for the free education, now i can weld pretty decently.
Glad to hear it! That's what this channel is all about and I thank you for sharing that information with me and everyone reading along! Please keep watching and consider posting some photos of your welds to the WeldFever Blog, at www.WeldFever.com/blog, or to #WeldFever on Instagram!
Master welder at work here!
WeldFever
Hi, What ampage setting was the stick welder set at to get those results?
thanks :)
SP330Y I beleive it was around 115 amps +\-
+WeldFever can you make a video with smaller pipes like 4cm by 4cm in 2mm thick ? what amps will you use and what kind of electrodes in this dimension ?
I am actually welding a trailer frame, and your welding videos (this one in particular) really help me going through this job. Thanks a lot for your help. I feel less of a noob now!
FillVinf06 Glad to hear it and please keep watching!
Dan, nice video and decent looking welds...just curious why you didn't take advantage of the opportunity to demonstrate horizontal stick welding all around instead of just on the T-joints of that tube...don't get me wrong, I Know it's Much easier doing it flat but a lot of viewers would've probly like that...
Thanks for the compliment. In response to your question, I try to get in as much as I can, but sometimes its hard to fit it all into a short video. I do have some horizontal stick welding videos out there though, so I'm hoping viewers will bounce around and pick and choose what they need. Thanks again and please keep watching!
Very new beginner here, so this is not a dig at all. I noticed that you didn't grind down the metal for your weld. Someone told me to do that a while back, which helped a lot with some of my welds, but I see a pro NOT doing it and I wonder why? Is that a beginner thing that more experience eliminates? Or perhaps using 7018 rod? (I'm mostly using 6013.)
+OzymandiasTheBassist You are absolutely correct. Mill scale and any other contaminates like paint, or rust, should be completely removed from the piece prior to welding. It helps with better fusion and prevents porosity from contaminants. In the interest of time I did't do that, so shame on me! Thanks for the comment and you keep on doing thing correctly!
nice.. im not a fan of stick welding myself because I have found myself commonly blowing right through the material and from watching the vid. I understand why, thanks buddy WELD ON!!
Leslee Toliver Thank you and I definitely will!
Welding in the field requires position welding, looked like a good place to practice...no weaving in the beveled gap would result in 100% penetration, just get the correct angle of rod will in position.
+Working Man I would not weave either, straight into the joint... it's a quick pass no heat issues on this.
He's on the money for wanting to trust a stick vs. a Mig on this..why? I dunno his Mig welder(S)...but you will NOT be able to get a decent quality MIG welder for less than $1,600. Many are available for around $300-400, but you should stay away from those low-current MIG welders. F.Y.I. a poorly known fact is that MIG welding generally requires TWICE as much current as stick welding to achieve a sound weld. For that reason you should not buy a MIG welder with less than 250 amps output in thick applications. You won't find a MIG welder in that range for less than $1,500; manufacturers tend to heavily exaggerate the thickness capabilities of their MIG welders.
+TVTruther Hallelujah! You are right on the money and that is exactly what my point has been all along, but you have been the first to put it so eloquently. I thank you and truly appreciate your very intelligent and insightful comment. I hope you will continue watching and commenting!
+TVTruther I like my little 110v mig welder, but it is only good for steel 1/8" thickness or less. It works ok on 3/16" when I use flux core wire. Also, these little machines only have a 20% duty cycle, so you can't even weld for very long before having to let the machine cool down.
Thanks very much for that information. I was about to buy a MIG...... your post is very helpful
Thanks very much for that information. I was about to buy a MIG...... your post is very helpful
Cant get a decent MIG welder for less than $1600?????? I just got a Miller 211 for $1,000. Not exactly junk.
Do you have to grind the weld to material level or is it ok to leave the bulge?
Usually the reinforcement or "bulge" is left, unless the object requires a fine finish.
+WeldFever grinding a weld flat destroys it it will not last
Love watching welding...its addictive for some reason.
If you are going for strength why didn't you use 6010/6011 as a root in your gappy weld and then cap with 7018?? or even grind some nice bevels and do a root weld all around with the 6010/6011 and then cap with 7018?
jdkeyes2000 I think that would have been overkill. The reality is that I would be fine MIG welding this, but I wanted to do something different and give an alternative to those viewers without a MIG, or who are not proficient enough with MIG to pull this off. The extra heat that a stick electrode provides is perfect for the thickness of material, but doing a root and cap would introduce too much heat to the material and would thus increase the heat affected zone. An increase in the heat affected zone would ultimately weaken the piece, so adding more weld would be counter productive. Thanks for the question!
WeldFever sorry but that makes no sense 6011 penetrates & 7018 fills
you need penetration for strength I hate to say
bury your electrode ?
6011 is also considered a freezing rod, which means it can be used overhead without dribbling. It also can "freeze" into big gaps using a zig zag motion. The 7018 is a nice cap that fills and looks pretty.
welders do it in all positions with 100% penetration sweet presentation man subed
Hey Dan, found this video to be of great help as I have a project coming up in the near future. I'm building a Blacksmithing, metal working work bench., and I have some NOS 1/4" square tubing I am going to use for legs and frame. I know this is alot of overkill, but I have this tubing laying around, Now to put it to some use! The more I watch your videos the less I see I know about welding! LOL! Thanks again, These have been a great help to me! Take care.
Hi Weldfever, I´m just learning stick welding because I can´t afford a usable TIG/MIG welding machine and it´s beginners choice for that reason (I think). Just did my first welds using your technique and it did fine - after a few passes I got my first good looking weld, and that´s with a cheap inverter and 3 mm rods. Thanks for sharing!
Nice video!!!
What stick you recommend for 1 inch square tubing and 90' degree angular? I want to make a outdoor one burner stove. People use this stove for boil shrimp on a big kettle or to fried big Turkey. The top 17" x 17" angular iron with 17" height legs on square tubing.
Thanks for the video, welding fiver. as usual. I do appreciate your teachings. Old and leaning new hobby.
as an eternal beginner (i.e. i never seem to get the hang of it) searching for clues what I take from this is that on that 'gappy weld' it's not so much that you don't spend so much time on the other side as that you don't direct the arc that way. It is always directed at the shoulder of the other piece.
When trying to do that join on thin wall stuff such details are all important I think - in my struggling attempts to find what works/how to do things...
And we're typically working with galvanised stuff, too. Like to see a demo of that.
And you mention more heat on the stick - I thought I've always read the MIG is hotter? Is it that there's less total heat, the stick being thicker, is that it?
hi. about strengt on mig welding. it depents how good you weld it. i'm welder too and we moustly use just mig becaus its practical and cleaner weld. but i like your job its grate. and yea about amps. usuly in europe its just writen on back of stick package. thear is min amps and max .
and for weldfever. did you trying to weld with mag or dont know how you know it maybe gas welding??
sorry about my anglish
Hey bud ,thank you so much for the info that I needed for my go kart build.Keep up the good work on all your videos.You have a good day buddy,bye.
Very tick material.. no problems at all!
whenever i build a steel rack of this type i tilt the supporting arms upward.
Thanks. Your delivery stile is a relief - just enough, let what you do speak loudest, and get out of the way of the video.
What setting, machine type, ACor DC?
Thanks.
thank you this video give me the confidence to try my first stick weld,subscribed
Oh thanx i hope you do that as well
I've been mig welding for a while now but after watching this channel and Jody's channel I think I will give stick welding a try. My everlast mig welder can apparently stick weld too so my only investment will be rods.
well it's great and artistic in my opinion and the learning curve is alot wider and frustrating at first but it's main idea is simpler so you have more control, wich means more room for improvisation so lot more fun in my opinion anyways.all the best mate hope you have fun.
That idea is good for my weed eaters thanks. Which welder do you use ?
Is there a formula to work out the correct amperage to the thickness of the steel and or welding rod to be used?
+Dirty Harry000 A lot of people like to use that 1 amp for every thousandths of an inch, but that only goes so far, because you wouldn't necessarily want to use 250 amps on 1/4" (.250) material. What I advise is to look at the amperage range of the stick electrode you are using, and start at the lower end if you will be welding thinner material, and vise versa for thicker. Generally, you will probably be using 1/8" electrodes, unless you are welding sheet metal, or very thick structural iron. So, yes it is a little unscientific, but keep in mind that welding is more art than science. Hope that helps...
I still would use a Mig. welder Miller 225 with #6 .035 wire and 70%argon 25%c2 5%o .same as 7018 by the book. But not for the beginner. as it runs hot and fast !
In case of lighter material (like 1/16" thick) using 5/64" rods, can you also weld a bead like you did? Or would the warpage be too big? I have to make a frame in this situation, and I'm delaying it because I'm not sure how to proceed.
+Luiz Borges Gomide no weave, straight into the joint, turn amps down to 80-90. make gaps as small as possible to avoid hole burning.
i made the exact thing with mig
T J try to TIG weld it is really fun and you get more control. I have never tried MIG though so I could be wrong.
Hi Dan, what thickness electrode / how many amps did you use for this project? I'm about to weld up some similar tubing (50mm tube, 5mm wall thickness) but I'm still learning electrodes and settings by trial and error at the moment.
They were 1/8" (3mm), E7018's and I used approximately 110 amps, which is my default setting for anything under about 1/2" (12.7mm). Given your wall thickness, I might suggest a lower amperage of around 90, or using a smaller rod. Hope that helps, thanks for your question and please keep watching!
I like stick welding now more than MIG. MIG is easier and looks good. But stick is just so basic and you can get good enough looking welds with 7014 and 7018. No meed to put wear and tear on the MIG. Save it for the smaller jobs.
Yeah! another good video on stick welding square tubings. Problem here in our country we get only thin gauge wall tubing so we don't use 7018 rods but the 3/32" 6013 rods and applying it very carefully so not to blow holes or burn up the thin wall. But if I'll be doing the same project with our kind of tubing, I'd be welding gussets under the supports just to make sure. Anyway your videos are very informative and full of invaluable tips for noobs. Thanks for sharing !!
Robert Sygui It is my pleasure and thank you for the nice comments!
very informativefantastic instructional video. I've well-read a lot from your posts and without stoppage subscribed. thankfulness
suppliesnearme.blogspot.com Great, thank you
Well I tried to weld 4 3/4 " threaded bungs and one 1 1/4 in bung on the next side and put 3" caps on each end.. It didn't turn out so good. I put a water facet on and hooked it to water with a wash machine hose. I had 12 pin hole leaks. I kept trying to weld over them, I got it down to 4, but I've got the worst looking globs of weld all over the place. I can't leave it like that or the guys will joke about my welds. I think I will grind it all down and try putting another bead around each one. I'm so tired of testing an welding then testing I'm about ready to give up. I was using 7018's had the welder set at 70-100 then 6. I tried 100 up and set it at 7 and it seemed to work a little better. I just don't know.
I'd love to see you weld bungs on 3/16" square tubing. Thanks
msnstock Send me a photo of the material you're trying to weld, and I'll try to make a video on it. You can send It to dan@weldfever.com
I love these storage racks! I had been planning to use wood racks in my garage but I think this is better. I'm learning how to weld so I could swing something similar.
THANKS. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
+PotatoGunsRule Great, glad to hear it and welcome to the welding world! Thanks for your comment and Happy New Year!
Dan,
I did not read all the comments, so what was the amps used in welding the 3/16 material. About, I know all welding machines are a little different.
Thanks,
I think you have the best video's
+pughwv1234 115a
great video! you obviously using LH rods which would have a 7000psi weld strength rating, most mig wire has the same weld strengh rating so you can have just as strong a weld using the mig.... it does help playing with the gas composition, having a higher co2 ratio will help get better penetration but even if you take standard mig gas a simple weld sequence will give you piece of mind!! i use mig for just about everything except for pressure vessels and pipelines purely because it isnt x-ray or ultrasound friendly
Thank you for the insightful comment! I am always happy to hear from knowledgeable people like you. I totally agree with you, and in actuality have no problem with the MIG process myself, but I had already done some MIG welding square tubing videos, so I thought a change in process would be nice. Also, I thought this would be a better choice for anyone out there that might not be 100% confident on short circuit MIG welding on structural applications. Thanks for the comment and please keep watching and posting!
What did you have your welder set at. I'm getting ready to weld some bungs into square tubing. I don't want to screw it up. I'm not a professional welder. Thank you in advance for your good videos. Ken from Indiana
msnstock Thanks Ken. I was welding 1/8" E7018's at around 115 amps based on the thickness of the material. Being that it is on the thin side, I used the low end of the amperage range according to the manufacturer's specifications. With a few practice welds on some scrap tubing, you should be fine! Good luck and let me know how it goes.
I use my 80amp stick welder all the time. I prefer to use the 6011 rods with it. My welds seem to get better penetration with those ones. Built a atv trailer with it and many others projects. Yet to have a weld break. Its all in how you lay the weld and prepare the work to be welded. Thanks for the video. Love to watch other people weld and learn new tricks. To anyone who is new at welding.....practice....practice....practice.
+SuperCyril2 Thak you and you are correct, practice makes perfect!
What do you recommend for a good stick welder without draining the pocket book? Is this a 110 or 220? Do you need gas for a stick welder? If so what kind of gas. Thx
In another comment you posted, I mentioned I started with a Lincoln-225. It is a 220 volt machine, and you do not need gas for an arc (stick) welder like this, or any stick welder for that matter. Hope this helps!
hi, just need help since im new at welding. what electrode is best to use for 2x2 3mm tube?
7018 or 6013? gonna make a squat rack for a project :)
thanks!
Great tips, and training... thanks
very good welding .. perfect
I always think of welding as a related behaviour to water drops, in that the surface tension of the liquid will hold the liquid together and in order to bridge the drop to the side being welded this side has to be in liquid form too, so the handling of the stick has to see to that. If the temperature is too high the surface tension will be low and the drop will collapse too much. Overhead welding is possible because of this surface tension in liquids being kept at a correct value.
To explain welding to newcomers , I first use water, A water drop on the tip of a pointer finger will not bridge with the pointer finger on the other hand, but on closer range it will and a crescent will form. Once the drop bridges both sides to be welded, the heat flow to each side can be regulated through the positioning of the electrode with respect to the mass of material on either side.
The last time I explained this to a pensioner trying t learn to weld, he said, " It is like trying to teach the electrode how to DANCE!"
An excellent analogy, if I do say so myself! I too use water as an example to my students by comparing the flow of water from a common garden hose to the way the puddle of molten metal behaves as a result of the way you direct it. It seems to get the message through. Thank you for that insightful comment!
fluxcore 8 a friendly wire and burn that in just fine and is think is equal to 7018. have a good day.
Yes, it is a nice wire. Thanks for your input and please keep watching.
As a noob to stick welding, I think I would have welded gussets underneath those supports . . . . just in case. Thanks for the great videos.
And there would be nothing wrong with that. As a matter of fact, I contemplated putting some additional support on the sides of the support arms, but decided given the small amount of stock that I keep around, it would probably be overkill. Thanks for your comment and please keep tuning in!
Stick welds rule! Nice finish, good video...thanks
+VanHustler Thank you.
Ok I have a really stupid question>>when you stick weld can you get electrocuted if you touch the clamp or stick?
Chicken Friedfish Theoretically you could, so you don't want to do that intentionally. The reason we don't fry up every time we weld is because electricity favors the path of least resistance, and our bodies are not ideal conductors. So, it chooses to flow through the metal being welded in orders to complete the circuit. Also, never weld while standing in water, because electricity also always want to return to ground and standing in a puddle of water can turn you into a conductor for electricity to return to ground, thus electrocuting you.
great video, thanks for posting. Nice tutorial for square tubing welding.
txhypnotist Glad you liked it and thanks for posting.
G'Day, I have to do a school project in metal work which involves stick welding thin square tube and I was wondering what amperage you set your welder to?
what did you do to prep the surface for welding?
Generally, I use acetone to wipe off any oils, or contaminates. I have noticed lately that there are some degreasers on the market, like Simple Green Commercial (purple) that claim you can use it for pre-weld cleaning, although I have not tried it myself. This would be preferable to acetone in that it is not as toxic, however, Acetone is quite safe if you use gloves and have plenty of ventilation or a respirator. Anything worse may require the use of a wire wheel, or sanding disk to remove such contaminates as paint, rust, or peeling mill scale. Hope this helps!
How did you prep for paint?
I find I like TIG the best of stick and TIG but I have never tried MIG so I can't make a fair comparison yet.
I just picked up a stick welder and I'm off and running! Thanks for the info.
im in welding school now and im having trouble seeing where in striking to start the bead. obviously since its a dark lens. im getting the hang of striking an ark but cant get the damn stick where i want it. very frustrating.
+garyP102782 Try an auto darkening helmet and you will find it much easier.
I'm trying to learn myself how to stick weld running up to a go kart project, but practicing on square tubing put on a flat piece of scrap metal the same thickness as this, im seeing a fair amount of beads come out and it tends to make holes in the weld aswell, could this be because of setting the settings too high on the machine? My machine doesnt have an AC-/DC/AC+ but just a dial, and my setting is 120, any ideas or do I just need more practice?
If your stick makes a buzzing as you weld you' e likely got an AC only welder, so make sure you are using a rod intended for AC (check the box)
The box will also tell you what current range the rod is intended for. 120 amps is relatively high.
To start, try a rod about 1/2 to 1/3 the material thickness and run beads on flat plate. Once you have a feel for the puddle, and can run a nicely crowned bead with the right amount of heat, try a lap joint, then a tee. Plan on burning a lot of rods as you practice... welding school takes years to teach these skills, so you shouldn't feel bad if it takes a few hours to get past lesson one ;-)
Good luck!
when your welding do you just drag the stick or do you have to put a motion into the stick while your going through the weld
+Harley Fuentes Motion, or oscillation, is only required on E6010 and E6011 electrodes. Having said that, I usually like to move slightly side to side (not a weave) in order to pause on the sides to prevent undercut and get good fusion.
is 160 amps enough for common stick welding?
160 is plenty.
I noticed the "on/off" Stronghand magnets. I have those two! :-)
+PotatoGunsRule Yeah, I like them, because they make life easier at times.
What size are yu using
Very informative. Thanks!
+Stephen Brown Thank you.
Thanks for the video - really helpful for a beginner like me
+David Urquhart You are very welcome and good luck to you on the beginning of your journey!
Nice video it help me tooo
im a qc supervisor at a steel rack plant for car part racks we use mig only. ford or gm doesnt like arc welds on there racks.
As a qc supervisor you should know that mig is an arc welding process. Their racks not there racks.
Great video! Curious what your amperage was?
rodartrobot Thank you, based on the electrode I was using and the thickness of the material, it was probably around 115 to 125 amps.
I was doing this today, but with 16G 1.5" tubing... a lot of experimenting led to using 1/16" 6013 rod on AC at about 40amps.
Great video.
you said you stick welded because they going to hold weight right. how much weight are you referring to? your talking to someone who is beyond NOOB! like i did like two small peaces of sheet metal 25 yrs ago noob! so be nice! you can laugh. but, be nice! LOL!!
Well, I plan to use these as a steel storage rack system, and steel gets pretty darn heavy, I wanted them to be as beefy as I could make them, without being crazy heavy to handle, maneuver, or bolt into my wall studs. I can't say just how much weight will be on this thing at any given time, but it doesn't take much tubing, or flat bar, or worse, plate stock to rack up some major pounds! Thanks for the comment and keep watching.
thanks
i build booms for wreckers. we use mig, and the plates on those can be up to 1/2".... it is strong enough to withstand the pressure of lifting a tractor trailer... i understand stick is supposed to be stronger but if mig welding can do that, why do you say 3/16th is soo thick you need to use stick?
+Michael Hall Here is a copy of something I wrote to another user with a similar question:
"Let me try to explain what I meant. My shows are mostly meant for beginners using consumer grade products. As such, these products do not usually have the amperage ratings necessary in order to produce a weld with proper fusion and penetration on thicker, heavier, structural type material. Add in the fact that we are welding using the short circuit mode of metal transfer with the GMAW process, which as you probably know is the "coldest" of all the modes of transfer, then you can understand why I caution my users. The bottom line is that I don't want someone to believe they can take a 100 or 140 amp MIG welder and start making trailers and tow hitches with them, especially if they are not experienced enough to know what proper fusion looks like, which I run into all the time. "
So, that's why I made the statement, and I hope that explains it better. I'm certain you are using a commercial welder with a higher current output that can easily tackle what you are referring to, but that's not the case with the majority of my viewers.
ok that does make sense.
What brand welder are you using?
+Cameron morley A Miller Welder.
great work!
looks good man. why did you decide not to add gussets?
Rmz250ryder I felt it would be strong enough without. Especially given the deep penetration and fusion as a result of using the stick electrode.
Dude. I have done the same welds. With the same materials & the same electrode. And by that i can tell that you have done a hill of a job, very clean very industrial grade weld job , thats really neat, thanks, hop to see more from you
+sultan000sultan Thank you very much!
+sultan000sultan I'm sorry but I gotta disagree. For industrial grade weld job he'd have to grind off the tacks, might lose some penetration on them. But it's not a pressure vessel so it's not a major mistake :)
Great video bud,very informative.I have a question for ya.I'm going to build a go kart with square tubing.What thickness tube do you recommend for the frame?Another question is I have a Sears 115volt wire welder and I'm using flux cored wire and I have .035" and I also have .030" wire and I also have a buzz box 220 and I have E6011 and 7018 rods.Which one of the two machines would you recommend to use for a beginner like me on this go kart project?Thank you for your time.
James Parmenter without knowing the specs, or how much weight you're going to put on it, I couldnt even venture a guess. My best advise on anything that's going to hold people is to over build the heck out of it, but that's all I can really say. I would use the buzz box with dry 7018's (out of a hot box or hermetically sealed packaging). The reason is you'll get better penetration than the 115 can produce, and being a beginner, you may not realize it if you lay down a weld with MIG that does not fully fuse, or penetrate. Whatever you do, don't take any chances! If you're going to build something that you intend to put people in, or on, make certain your welding skills are where they need to be before you build it. That's my best advice! Good luck.
WeldFever Thanks for the advise bud.Keep up the good work.
WeldFever hey weldfever, my friend wants me to make him some tube doors for his jeep, what size would you recommend?
subscribed to learn welding
Thanks from Va
+Onenasty306 You're welcome!
+WeldFever My homework for Design and Technology was to look at metal joining techniques. We're using the same diameter tubing, and I think the same welding method. THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED
At what amperage are you welding
s Luce I think I was around 110-115 amps.
I'm new to this realm, and quite excited about it. Thank you for a great lesson!
I'm expecting my Everlast welder any day now. It will be my first welder and first time ever welding. I am very excited.
Have fun, create, be safe!
What rods did u use and what amps ??? Cheers mate
What is a good first stick welder
Shelley Myers I started with a Lincoln AC225 also know as a "fuzzbox" or "tombstone" welder. You can usually get them used for under $200.00 and they are workhorses that last for years (provided they are not abused). The only issue for some is that they only run on 230v service, so if your home/shop/garage is not wired for it, it won't work. Good luck.
Master.
I'm an iron worker and I've learned to trust mig a lot more than I used to a lot of our steel beams are pre fab in the shop with mig and these said beams support massive core slabs.
+Landon Jones I too used to pre fab steel beams in a shop and we would use dual shield (flux cored with shielding gas) or Lincoln, but never short circuit mig. In fact, per the AWS D1.1, GMAW-S (short circuit mig) is prohibited in structure steel applications. Thanks for your comment.
+WeldFever I meant to say Lincoln 71M, not just "Lincoln."
Wich stick are you using?
llave25 1/8", E7018
great
how long it take school for welding
I will not ever go back to stick welding, MIG and TIG is where its at!!
+Patrick Thedford personal choice.
+Ghost Dog stick welding is the most practical in my opinion. mig is child's play
is stick welding or wire welding better
For the last weld you did lying flat, would it change/improve or worsen something if you stood the piece up to weld so the rounded edge is above with the bottom of the open bar directly below or would that cause the molten material to drip to far into the crack..?
This flat position is by far the easiest to control.
The surface tension of the molten metal bridges the gap, and by tracing the edge with the electrode the weld can be pulled along this gap.
Welding sideways as you suggest is also straight forward, though extra technique is required to keep the puddle in place on the vertical surface. The electrode is angled upwards slightly, and the arc force (together with the right amount of heat and travel speed) keeps the puddle in the joint. Use a few too many amps, or hang around in one place too ling, and things will go bad quickly...
Ok, thanks.
I bought one of those square magnets and tried to weld a short piece od 10mm rod onto a piece of tubing while holding it up straight with the magnet. The arc caused a lot of splatter and the welding did not want to grab onto the rod. After several adjustments to my welder and changing welding rods I still had very poor results. Then it struck me that it could be the magnetic field... I removed the magnet end whalaa! Immediate success.
Can you guys tell me if this is a correct assumption? If so, what distance is ok for the magnet to be from the arc?
+Okkie Butler A disturbance to the arc caused by a magnetic field is called arc blow and it is very common when welding on DC polarity. Try welding on AC with your magnet on (if you can). If you no longer eperience problems, then that arc blow is confirmed.
+WeldFever Thanks for the comment!
+Okkie Butler you can try wrapping your ground cable around whatever you are welding, if it doesn't help trying wrapping it the opposite direction, i believe this sometimes helps if you don't wanna use AC. Or just don't use the magnet
+Okkie Butler the lincoln 300 has some nice control settings to vamp up the arc force and it really helps. some of the top end machines overcome the issue.
what size of 7 18 rod
1/8''
mig would of been fine for strength with that box section.
+just bud I agree with you, however my comments were directed to persons just starting out, and may not know good fusion from bad. Many of my viewers are new to welding, and I want to provide info that would allow them to make safe and well fused welds. Persons with your experience will know the difference. Thanks for the comment.
+WeldFever 👍