6013 Stick Welding Problem Fixed

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  • Опубликовано: 8 июл 2022
  • Let's fix this common problem!
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    Other helpful videos:
    Stick Welding Basics for Beginners: • Stick Welding Basics f...
    How to Stick Weld with 6013 Electrodes: • How to Stick Weld with...
    Stick Welding Electrodes Explained: • Stick Welding Electrod...
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    Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW), often called stick welding, can be a challenging process to learn for beginners. I make these videos to make it easier.
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Комментарии • 357

  • @tomt9543
    @tomt9543 Год назад +334

    I’m a retired certified welder, 41 years worth, and my first welds were in HS shop class in the mid 70’s using 6013. After graduating and starting my career, it was all 7018, most of the time vertical up or overhead! I only do occasional “friends & family” welding nowadays, and I’ve gone back to my roots - using 6013 & 7014 instead of low hydrogen due to the storage issues of 7018 when not using them up steadily. Slag inclusions have always been an issue with 13’s & 14’s, but I stumbled on a great tip! On one of those welding channels from India (you know the ones!), I noticed this guy doing the obligatory dab dab dab 6013 weld along with an occasional standard uninterrupted stringer bead, ALL of them free of slag pockets!! He was using a greenish colored electrode that I figured was some regional thing. I commented, saying how impressed I was with the lack of discontinuities in his beads, I myself constantly fighting it! His response? Get some ESAB 6013’s! My local welding supply didn’t stock them, but got some for me. Opening the first tube of “Sureweld 6013”, I was greeted by the first green welding rods I’d ever owned, and my skepticism was quickly squashed upon burning the first one! I’ve tried 5 or 6 different brands of 6013, but these things are in a class all by theirselves! I highly recommend trying them for yourself! A game changer for me! Excellent video by the way, even though I had to watch it with the sound turned off! Ha!

    • @trevorslater2746
      @trevorslater2746 Год назад +7

      Hi Tom thanks for the comments, I got my basic welding ticket 30 plus yrs ago but didn't keep it up ,just doing farm,home jobs ,guys was selling strata 555s ,bought them $75 30 something yrs ago ,big $$ then but best rods ever ,finally used the last one ,but being eking them out ,don't know the $$ now would glue anything together, rusty etc

    • @bonniedobkin6948
      @bonniedobkin6948 Год назад +7

      That is because ESAB INVENTED SHIELDED RODS , BEFORE THAT THEY WERE BARE METAL 👌

    • @shanerogers2835
      @shanerogers2835 Год назад +4

      I just came across one of the best deals absolutely ever . Lockheed Martin was selling off a tone of old equipment. I bought 3 flammable storage lockers full of welding equipment welding rods wire gloves all sorts of tools for $150 a piece I bought three of these lockers . Each one of these lockers was chalked full of these 3/32 golden rods. Golden is the name of them as the color of them. My machine is a Miller bobcat 225. These rods seem to be a 5p type rod the only thing is when I weld flat with them it leaves pits not sure what the deal is I'll be laying a really nice roll of dimes and then something happens the slag breaks away or something I don't know it just leaves a crater but like I said it's only when I will flat a pill in overhead beautiful beautiful beach. Do you have any suggestions

    • @tomt9543
      @tomt9543 Год назад +6

      @@shanerogers2835 The undesired crater or slag inclusions scream out 6013 or 7014 to me, but I’ve never seen “Golden” electrodes! If there’s no number on them, it’s hard to figure out what you’re dealing with! There is a “Golden Bridge” manufacturer of welding consumables in China, and they list two different versions of 6013: J421 (J38.12) E4313, and J421X E4313. If that’s what they are, flat beads can be very frustrating, and rely on rod angle, travel speed and amperage. Welding too “cold” can cause those defects, running hotter gets everything stirred up and separates the molten puddle and slag better, and letting the molten slag get in front of the puddle is a sure sign that the weld will be full of discontinuities! 6013 & 7014 are typically not used vertical up or overhead because of the heavy slag, but it could be that out of position welding uses gravity to pull the slag away from where it’s not wanted! I can’t be sure though because I’ve never used either uphill or overhead!

    • @shanerogers2835
      @shanerogers2835 Год назад +4

      @@tomt9543 ok this electrode is a 3/32 on the side of the road it says " X-ERGON #106 DURA-WELD GOLD. . these rods are a chocolate chip cookie, golden brown with very small specks of white and little bit of black . The exposed end of the rod ,that you stick into the stinger is an ugly shade of almost cheap spray paint gold.. unfortunately these rods didn't come in a box or can , just a sealed plastic bag, no MSDS no markings on the bag . Each bag is 25 maybe 30 lbs I have in all 71 bag's. Thank you so much for your information. I've never had trouble like this with 7018 , 6011, 6022 , or 6010s it's quite frustrating. I've been a structural steel Ironworker for 24 years, never busted out on any weld test or inspection. Normally when I burn rod , my slag peal's off .

  • @allenstankevitz7654
    @allenstankevitz7654 Месяц назад +6

    Old timer here. I had problems for a long time with 6013s. The problem was I kept
    trying to use it like a 6011.
    Remember you need a gap
    when using a 6011 and others. Try dragging the rod with no gap or very little. You'll see the difference. For many years all I had was a Lincoln AC
    buzz box. I have learn things to use that others don't talk much about. Like
    rod manipulation and watch the heat versus what people say the amp dial says. Think more like an artist than an weld engineer. Loosen up, get comfortable. It's a great day when your welds look
    good. Then the welding bug will get you big time. If
    you are not having fun burn more rods til you smile 😀

  • @SF-fm7ov
    @SF-fm7ov 6 месяцев назад +4

    When I weld thicker plates ( like 1/4"), I use 105 or 120 amps on my old Lincoln AC with 6013. I get lots better results than at low amperage. I also find that weaving from side to side for the first half inch or so, leaves a more uniform weld.

  • @kwaaaa
    @kwaaaa Год назад +39

    As a hobbyist getting into welding, your videos have been immensely helpful. By far the most clear, concise and to-the-point videos.

  • @djtblizzle
    @djtblizzle Год назад +30

    You’re the clearest, most concise welding instructor on RUclips. Subbed!

  • @davidfinstrom3899
    @davidfinstrom3899 День назад

    Any weld I make with whatever process, I always focus on the size and shape of the puddle that is visible after the arc and before the freeze line of the slag. I can almost always “see” the finished weld in my minds eye even before the slag is cleaned off. The sliver of light at the sides of the puddle that reflect the arc means it’s blending well to the base metal, and the shape of the puddle where the slag freezes will be the shape of the weld at that point. When I started welding I wasn’t sure what to look at. I have shared that tip with co workers and it helped them as much as it did me.
    The molten puddle created is what it’s all about. If you can see what it is doing, you can know how the weld will turn out. If the filter lens is too light, or even too dark, you cannot differentiate between the puddle and the leading edge of the slag, or even the puddle and the arc itself.

  • @deanoscott
    @deanoscott Год назад +4

    Just started welding recently. Watching your videos has helped me immensely. My boss even said my welds are nicer than his and he has been welding 30+ years so i thank you for that.

  • @Brian18741
    @Brian18741 Год назад +3

    Just bought your 4 pack bundle, looking forward to getting stuck in! I was a mig welder on a production line for 2 years, 20 years ago. Looking forward to learning the knowledge behind the skill as back in the day it was just practice until you get good, never mind the theory 👍

  • @danielchambers1958
    @danielchambers1958 Год назад +5

    I gave up 6013, but I may have to revisit the rod after watching this video. Appreciate it Tim . . . your delivery seems more natural now....keep up the good work Sir!

  • @adeh503
    @adeh503 Год назад +3

    Tim is without doubt the best tutor on RUclips.. Since I started welding a few years back I've learnt everything from this guy

  • @MojoDevirus
    @MojoDevirus Год назад +16

    Ohhhhhh thanks for this vid. I was having the same issue using the 6013. I will check my amperage and weld angle next time. =)

  • @WindozeFree
    @WindozeFree 7 месяцев назад +1

    HUGE HELP! I'm a beginner and I've been running into this more than anything else. Can't wait to try what you showed here. Thanks!

  • @georgemartin7717
    @georgemartin7717 8 месяцев назад +4

    Your videos are really awesome.
    There are so many variables that can have a profound effect on making a good solid weld from day to day or even throughout the day or night. HOWEVER, this usually involves temprature and moisture, in my experience.
    I spent 5 years welding where every weld and weld repair was UT'd or Mag. Part.tested with the outcome also noted in your record as a passed or failed weld. I moved from the Midwest (Hot and Humid) to a High Desert environment which is very Hot with very low humidity) during the day.
    I transferred to nightshift and on one night, I had a small 6" repair to make on 3/8" mild steel at a depth of 3mm. on a weldment that was stored outside after it failed Ultra Sound.
    I had brought the section inside the plant and guickly gound the slag inclusion and poracity out. As i started to fill in the gash, the supervisor came by and told me to slowly preheat the steel up a little bit in that area, if i valued my record. When i asked him WHY it was necessary. He stated because of " moisture in the metal from condensation, even though it's dry to the touch and eyes, it's " wet ". It will also prevent cracking and warping from thermal shock so don't chance it". I fired up the belch fire torch and saw the moisture being driven out almost right away. The canyon i ground out filled up so nice, that i didn't have to butter up the weld and it passed. From that time to this day i preheat everything from 1/4" on up. Even if the outside humidity is only 20% at 70 degrees. Just another one of if those little details that can make a difference.

  • @LoBeau53
    @LoBeau53 Год назад +1

    I have been welding for 35 years but have very little experience with AC electrodes. The struggle is real. Thank you for reaffirming what I subconsciously knew to be true.

  • @chepo1956
    @chepo1956 Год назад +14

    HI Tim, Jose from Puerto Rico. I'm 65 years old and retired, but I've always been interested in learning to weld. As much so that I've taken a basic stick welding course just to get my feet wet, and I truly enjoyed it. Then I stumbled on your channel, and I'm at awe of your tremendous skill set and manner of teaching. You're a gifted teacher. Do you think that your course described on your channel would be something I could really learn from? Or do you think that going to school is the way to go? I mean, the price of your total course is mind-boggling exceptional, compared to what I paid for that basic course.

  • @EasyPost99
    @EasyPost99 Год назад +14

    I wanted to learn welding for a long time ; so I have been watching Tim's videos for a while now . I got myself a cheap Inverter DC welder 2 weeks back and been practicing with some 2.4 mm and 3.15 mm 6013 electrodes . I found that with 70-75 amps I get good results with the 2.4 mm 6013 electrode ( or at least it seems good to me , lol ) and 100 to 110 amps with a 3.15 mm 6013 electrode .
    I need to work on my welding angles and travel speed ; it's only a fortnight I have been welding :)

    • @usernamemykel
      @usernamemykel Год назад +1

      I was a fortknight who couldn't fight well with a sword, but was good with a crossbow.

  • @yodaco
    @yodaco 9 месяцев назад

    Thanks for making this video. When searching for beginners videos on welding this one really is the one that tells you what you need to know to start making good welds with 6013 and really that is all you need to know.

  • @flowinthrou
    @flowinthrou Год назад +1

    This is the most instructive video about this matter (which is my most common deamon) I`ve seen. And the duration of 5 minutes is perfect

  • @Whabligone
    @Whabligone Год назад +5

    Thanks, this helps a lot, in the town I live in, you only get 6013, nothing else, and I am struggling to get a nice weld.

  • @jelvengarcia3145
    @jelvengarcia3145 Год назад +2

    From 🇵🇭...i always watching your vids.new idea.new Knowledge..shout out

  • @algordon5843
    @algordon5843 Год назад +2

    All I can say is Thanks Mate from a novice Auzzie welder.
    Another great and highly useful video.

  • @andrewpatterson5325
    @andrewpatterson5325 Год назад +1

    Great video. I had the same issue with 6013. I’m off to the shed to put your advice into practice. Thanks Tim.

  • @cleanmachine08
    @cleanmachine08 Год назад +1

    Great advice and video. Wish I knew this years ago; it would have helped eliminate a lot of inconsistently I have been experiencing exclusively when running slow on 6013 fillet welds!

  • @emailformosa
    @emailformosa 8 месяцев назад

    Coming from Mig/TIG, I struggle with this issue the most. It’s often frustrating and heartbreaking. Thanks for the insights, I’ll give it a shot.

  • @DayFire725
    @DayFire725 Год назад

    I recently purchased your online course, and have completed stick welding. You should add this as a troubleshooting step! I was having this issue in every fillet and some lap joints, it would have been easier to have it included in the lessons vs having to research it elsewhere. But overall I like the course and learned (but not mastered) stick quickly. Can’t wait to start on the shielded processes though, slag and smoke suck!

  • @Daniel-uf1xx
    @Daniel-uf1xx 17 дней назад

    You have saved me from bad welds with 6013. I usually bump it 7-10 degrees hotter and makes a difference.

  • @jackdawg4579
    @jackdawg4579 Год назад +6

    cheers Tim, I have seen this from time to time in my welding, good to know why. Like a lot of hobbyists 7018 isn't for me, 6013 for most of my work, it can be long periods between welding and rods need to be able to sit for months if not years open on the shelf, and be fine to use straight away - which 7018 cant do.

  • @Dave-thorfinn
    @Dave-thorfinn 11 месяцев назад

    I have had similar issues when I weld 6013. I've done a decent amount of welding in a class room setting to figure out what welding mistakes I am making at home.
    When I work with 6013 try to hold it start of the world for about 1 or 2 seconds then start running a beed. I got a hint from another channel a while back they suggested maybe putting you travel angle a little farther forward to help push the slag away from the weld puddle with 6013 and it seem to help a lot what I was doing. Now I was mainly practicing at home keep up on welding. But good video I like it I love your channel

  • @stanleybiaz
    @stanleybiaz Год назад +3

    You are a great teacher, Tim!

  • @davieb9174
    @davieb9174 7 месяцев назад +3

    Hi Tim,
    The first time I learned to weld was when I was 7 years old, and over the last year, I became burnt out from 25+ years of software engineering, and one of my friends told me - "Dave, have you tried working with your hands again?"
    Your channel has helped me so much, and I thank you for it! You keep up the good work! This. Is. Awesome.
    Oh - I'm starting an official welding course next year ;-)

    • @chriswf
      @chriswf 6 месяцев назад

      I know that burnout. I craft that time when I get to work with my hands.
      I can't leave software, as I don't think I can make as much with my hands at my skill level. But working with my hands is way better.

  • @Its-Steven
    @Its-Steven Год назад

    This was a great video Tim, Clear and concise, and very well explained.

  • @traianima
    @traianima 3 месяца назад

    Dude, thank you
    I was getting the exact same results as the viewr that sent you the email
    Gonna try your tips tommorow.
    Thanks Tim

  • @deansawich6250
    @deansawich6250 Год назад +1

    Thanks, this is why I switched to 7018 as my go to rod. The 7018 restart issue I deal with by keeping a small file handy and I file the end clean of flux before I restart.

  • @ardynottle
    @ardynottle Год назад

    Thanks for the hot tip. 6013 is what’s available here in Australia so any advice is always appreciated regards Ardy

  • @desb9639
    @desb9639 Год назад +12

    Hi Tim, thanks for helpful reply to my email and I appreciate you taking the time to make a video addressing the issues I am having using 6013 rods. In the UK they seem to be the only welding rods on the shelf plus the do not need to be stored in an oven like the 7018s. I have not applied the tips you have given me yet but I will let you know how it goes when I do. Cheers

    • @MyGFIsMaria
      @MyGFIsMaria Год назад +1

      Here in Europe we often use ISO instead of AWS so for example ESAB OK 48.00 is the same as 7018 and I found it on the UK version of ebay. But 6010 is hard to find here.

    • @yewsengcheong1637
      @yewsengcheong1637 Год назад +5

      Thank you for requesting this. It was the exact same problem I was having but didn’t know how to ask it. I often get welds onto one side and not the other and slag inclusion. I need more amp and steeper angle and I think I need to slow down too!

    • @jimjungle1397
      @jimjungle1397 Год назад +1

      I noticed when I was in Europe 6013 was popular there for home welders, but here in America, it seems 6011 is much more popular for home use.

    • @safetyfirstintexas
      @safetyfirstintexas Год назад +2

      @@jimjungle1397 6011 is the no prep rod for welding junk steel mill scale ,and anti rust coating. a almost universal rod!

    • @robertmintz63
      @robertmintz63 Год назад

      @@MyGFIsMaria 6011 is the same as 6010

  • @thecoder7188
    @thecoder7188 Год назад +1

    Thank you so much sir, i had this problem for a long time when i'm doing corner joint welding 6013 is amazing for every joint except corner and lap joint. Please do more of 6013 electrode content since it is rare content also 6013 is very popular in africa and Asia.
    Lots of love from Somalia🇸🇴❤

  • @masbrois7491
    @masbrois7491 Год назад

    I'm lucky finding this channel. I have the same problem like this. Thanks man.

  • @Oldtanktapper
    @Oldtanktapper Год назад +27

    I’ve found arc length is important with 6013 rods, really tightening it up seems to help blow the slag away from the puddle for me. There’s also (certainly here in Australia anyway) a difference between brands, some are a lot smoother running than others. A bloke I was working with was giving me tips on my welds, he’s very picky about which brand he’ll use and it certainly helped me.

    • @fuckingpippaman
      @fuckingpippaman Год назад

      the tighter the arc the better (if you have enough amps)

    • @glennh2965
      @glennh2965 Год назад +1

      Mate, So what are the best 6013 here? Not Bunnings I'm guessing...

    • @Oldtanktapper
      @Oldtanktapper Год назад +4

      @@glennh2965 Don’t think they’re the best, but the Bossweld from Bunnies aren’t actually too bad. They’re the ones my welder mate told me to go with, they lay a decent bead.

    • @samwhite1823
      @samwhite1823 11 месяцев назад +2

      Absolutely right. Steep work angle, tight arc and you should be able to feel both plates with the flux as you feed the rod. Those 2.4mm really burn off quick too

    • @samwhite1823
      @samwhite1823 11 месяцев назад +1

      I use Oerlikon Fincord M, they are the most butter smooth rod when you get used to them. Could weld in a shirt and tie with them

  • @jerryleejohnsonjr1377
    @jerryleejohnsonjr1377 Год назад

    Great channel Tim! Thanks for all the tips.

  • @matthewknowles2607
    @matthewknowles2607 Год назад

    Thanks Tim, you’re a great educator.

  • @kennethdandurand3472
    @kennethdandurand3472 Год назад +13

    I have been welding for over 50 years. Granted, for the past 5-8 years my oscillation is built in, but I always watch what my puddle is doing. I use 6013 often and 7018 as a primary rod....I love the stuff. What I have noticed is that if you are running the weld on either and it is running downhill, even slightly like a few degrees, the slag on 6013 tends to run over the puddle. Keep the welds even or uphill and you will do away with a lot of that puddle problem.

  • @Ninjavaz
    @Ninjavaz Год назад +1

    Brilliant insight. I always use 6013 and experience exactly this problem

  • @jjakemo
    @jjakemo Год назад +1

    Good video man. Those are some awesome tips thanks and keep the videos coming

  • @raycleoddiomampo4560
    @raycleoddiomampo4560 Год назад

    Thanks Mr. Tim, truly you solve the issues in E - 6013 electrode, Godbless!

  • @pondacres
    @pondacres Год назад +9

    Awesome tutorial as always, Tim. Same problems for me with 6013...can't see puddle, trapped slagged, undercut if I turned up the heat, etc. On my own I stumbled on increasing the travel angle. But real, the best solution for 6013...is to switch to 7014 haha!

    • @rivernet62
      @rivernet62 Год назад +6

      Exactly my thought. If you can work with a clean surface, why would you mess with 6013.

    • @timlong1462
      @timlong1462 Год назад +7

      I found the same thing. I learned on 6013 and thought I was just bad until I switched to 7014. It is better in every single way.

    • @jefffrayer8238
      @jefffrayer8238 Год назад +1

      Same here. I'm just welding on the farm but never been able to make nice welds with 6013. I can make nice looking welds with 7014 and never had one break. I use 1/8 and sometimes 3/32. 7014 keeps years for me, stronger than 6013 and lays a nice bead so I don't see any reason for 6013. Great video.

    • @PercyJackson93
      @PercyJackson93 Год назад

      Would this still be within about a 10-20' travel angle? I've been trying a lot to get rid of porosity in my welds even with 7018

  • @BrettCraft
    @BrettCraft Год назад +1

    Great video. Thanks Tim!

  • @scroungasworkshop4663
    @scroungasworkshop4663 Год назад

    Thanks Tim, I needed that. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺

  • @raybruneski3931
    @raybruneski3931 7 месяцев назад

    Wow, amazing lesson. Thank you, much appreciated!

  • @donaldhalls2189
    @donaldhalls2189 Год назад

    Thank you, all the best to you and your loved ones

  • @dennisyoung4631
    @dennisyoung4631 Год назад

    Had this *exact* trouble today with *Forney 7018AC!!!*
    Turned current up, gave it more angle…

  • @peterdavies1804
    @peterdavies1804 24 дня назад

    I'm a retired boilermaker (Australian)as an apprentice a tradesman said to me "don't just look at the pretty blue light"look inside the arc and look ,but see what happens inside and understand what's happening.

  • @fastbusiness
    @fastbusiness Год назад

    Very helpful video. Thanks for posting it.

  • @rpavlik1
    @rpavlik1 Год назад

    I could actually really see the difference here. Not sure which line was the one you were talking about as the clearly-defined puddle, but I did pick up a small box of Harbor Freight 7018 to practice with during the course, then I'll come back to my massive box of name brand 6013.

  • @MPrae
    @MPrae Год назад

    Well explained, keep up the good work!

  • @houssmchetouane3083
    @houssmchetouane3083 Год назад +1

    Thank you
    Great demonstration

  • @Brian18741
    @Brian18741 Год назад

    Great video, thanks Tim 👍

  • @selezeanu
    @selezeanu Год назад

    Many tanks! Solved my 6013 problem :). God bless!

  • @samday6621
    @samday6621 Год назад

    Thanks Tim,
    Informative and succinct.

  • @user-ed6mj2rt8i
    @user-ed6mj2rt8i Месяц назад

    讲的非常棒,正在学习,谢谢

  • @markbeale7390
    @markbeale7390 Год назад

    Very well explained, thank you very much.

  • @vasilistrimis8260
    @vasilistrimis8260 11 месяцев назад

    That's so helpful mate! Thanks ❤

  • @henryrossouw930
    @henryrossouw930 Год назад

    Here in South Africa one only gets the 6013 on shelves.Different manufacturers and are they a pain in the but and on top of that one has to weld 1.6mm and 2mm steel with it when making safety gates.I thought I was a terrible welder cause I sometimes have the same problem of slag caught up in weld.Currently I weld at 77Amps and not much of a problem other than blowouts.Thanks for sharing.Currently doing a 6meter gate a 3.4m gate and a 1.18m gate with 1.6mm rectangular tubing and 10mm square steel.

  • @hoghedgeboar
    @hoghedgeboar 4 месяца назад

    Thanks for the videos, finally I found the way out 🙏

  • @yewsengcheong1637
    @yewsengcheong1637 Год назад

    Great! Have been having this exact same problem. Could you have lines on still images to show what we should be looking for and what not please? Maybe a what to look for for various types of common electrodes please?

  • @woods-garage
    @woods-garage Год назад +7

    Nice information Tim. Thanks for continuing to make quality training videos.
    Something to consider on future videos is taking a still frame of ‘good’ and another of ‘bad’, and putting them onscreen next to each other. Even better would be drawing some curved lines on the stills showing where the arc defining line is and also the edge of the weld puddle. After you’ve been welding a while, these are easy to see. But people new to welding may not understand where to look. When you show a video and say, “as you can see…”, those of us that have been welding a while can of course see what you’re talking about. But somebody that’s just starting out may not be able to pick out the details.

    • @yewsengcheong1637
      @yewsengcheong1637 Год назад +3

      Yes! I have been looking everywhere to see this cause I don’t know what I should be looking for.

    • @rpavlik1
      @rpavlik1 Год назад +2

      Yeah a little drawing on the arc shots would be nice

    • @schweinnase7138
      @schweinnase7138 Год назад +1

      I agree as well. A break/snapshot an some hand drawn lines with different colors for slag and weld pool will make this explanation perfect. Maybe direkt in this video as an overlay? Thanks Tim for sharing your experience.

  • @scottraven1721
    @scottraven1721 Год назад +1

    Thank you ! 🙂
    Excellent demonstration !
    Literally, from all angles 🤗
    👍 ♥️ 🍻 🦘

  • @MrSummerbreeze01
    @MrSummerbreeze01 Месяц назад

    Just today was 6013 welding some 1-5/8" pipe 1/8 thick and had that problem. I'll try increasing the stick angle tomorrow to see if that helps. Did not want to turn amps up to 90 because of pipe thickness. Since i'm welding around the circumference of the pipe, keeping the stick angle constant is a challenge.

  • @christee5772
    @christee5772 Год назад

    Thank you, have had this problem with 6013 and, as others have said, worked out for myself that upping the amps and adding some rod angle seemed to sort it out, good to have this technique confirmed.

  • @jirawad
    @jirawad Год назад

    Thanks for very useful video.

  • @amielrumbaua8387
    @amielrumbaua8387 Год назад +4

    I feel like I've seen another 6013 troubleshooting video on TIm's channel but as someone who's only working with 6013 so far, I've done the mistake on the thumbnail so countless times as I was learning on my own. On 6013 fillet welds you really have to make sure that the starting puddle and arc has warmed up and stabilized well, and keep the arc length really close! That's one thing not mentioned in this vid for the issue, I'm guessing arc length got a bit too long and the arc and deposits were just going everywhere. Keeping the arc length small makes it so that the deposits only go where you want it to, and that's critical for a rod where you don't have as much puddle visibility as other rods

    • @phasis97
      @phasis97 4 месяца назад

      yea im pretty sure he could have summarized the video in 2 seconds: dont long arc, increase drag. once ur in the correct amp range its just a matter of travel speed

  • @mikebryan544
    @mikebryan544 2 месяца назад

    Yeah ace Tim nice to have some good commentary rather than other vids with no explanation like on most youtube vids out there

  • @Harry-rj6kh
    @Harry-rj6kh Год назад

    I worked in Todd's Shipyard in Seattle in the 80's and they had the best welders I've ever seen, stick, tig and mig. I moved to Baja 12 years ago and asked around for a good welder. I was told that a fellow in town was the best around. I needed a header for my truck fixed and the job was so bad I ended up spending $500 for a new set. Everything is so half assed down here, I now have only certain people do my repairs but it's taken a long time to learn the ropes. I've been screwed multiple times and they don't even use Vaseline.

  • @nelsonglass3497
    @nelsonglass3497 Год назад

    Great info… very practical

  • @mrjklee
    @mrjklee Год назад

    Hi Tim, awesome watch. Quick one, would like to find out, what mm is the rod you welding with?

  • @stormytempest6521
    @stormytempest6521 Год назад

    Very well explained.

  • @c2thew
    @c2thew Год назад +1

    Can you do a video on welding at awkward angles? In your shop/bench setup, you always weld at “ideal” positions: top down, flat surface. Can you do vertical and even upside down angles? Thanks. Your channel is awesome

    • @TimWelds
      @TimWelds  Год назад +4

      I can work some more of that in, for sure. Thanks!

  • @REVOLSAMI
    @REVOLSAMI 8 месяцев назад

    nice video sir. i would like to ask. during 3g welding, the upper beads (closer to the top/end of the plate) seem to have more thickness than the lower ones. why is that, whats the solution. thank you

  • @dave5833
    @dave5833 Год назад

    Thanks Tim I got your website and will be in contact. Have a great day.

  • @davedunn4285
    @davedunn4285 3 месяца назад

    I still do a fair bit of welding using 6010 , 6013, 7018 and I am relatively easy using any of these . I have some esab stainless rods as well . I sometimes even now get a bit of slag inclusion because I weld very thin metals and as you would know stick and paper thin metals don’t really like each other

  • @DanielJonesParamotor
    @DanielJonesParamotor 9 месяцев назад

    Trying to do some plug welds with Stick and I keep getting undercut/slag stuck in the plug. It’s a real pain where I don’t think rod angle will help. Anyone able to offer any advice?
    Love the videos Tim, very informative and well put together.

  • @goatsinker347
    @goatsinker347 Год назад +11

    Real advice is; STOP USING 6013, go to 6011. And if you want a stronger arc force, try electrode negative! This will push that slag away from the puddle way better, and keeps the heat down, so the issue of undercut is drastically reduced.

    • @fuckingpippaman
      @fuckingpippaman Год назад +1

      6011 costs 8 times as much, and hate humidity. There are reasons why the 6013 are the most used electrodes

    • @dont-want-no-wrench
      @dont-want-no-wrench Год назад +1

      @@fuckingpippaman where i am price is about the same, and not particulary sensitive to humidity, not like 7018 eg.

    • @foxfinder4863
      @foxfinder4863 Год назад

      why would you use 6013 in the first place unless you are doing root pass? 6010 is far better or 6010P. also 6013 is an ac rod and 6010 is dc which is a far more stable arc.

    • @Vecto_Vindictus
      @Vecto_Vindictus 11 месяцев назад +1

      I did what you said, now I have blown holes all throughout my sheet metal project. Hmmm, wonder why? I'll try 7018 next, that's gotta work.

  • @nickolasparkin2954
    @nickolasparkin2954 4 месяца назад

    You just helped me so much 😂

  • @michaelvalicenti471
    @michaelvalicenti471 Год назад

    How important is electrode storage for 7018 if I'm just a go-kart building, backyard hobbyist?? Thanks in advance! 🙂

  • @lumotroph
    @lumotroph 4 месяца назад

    Thank you!

  • @TheMxrrab
    @TheMxrrab Год назад

    Well that answers my question 👏🏻

  • @vivivi..
    @vivivi.. Месяц назад

    Help me out, here's my setup on my past problem. 6010 like your rod here, 60-70 amps, and the going speed like you do here in this vid.
    So the problem was the slag keeps going under the weld, is it because i grind the crack to expose it and make the weld go deep and stick well?? I didn't put an angle to that grind just a straight shallow cut like.

  • @noimagination99
    @noimagination99 5 месяцев назад

    I've only watched a handful of your videos so far, but a burning question I have is about travel speed, and in your close-up arc shots I can't tell if they are real-time, or slowed down. In shots from behind the weld, some are obviously sped-up. It would help to know when the video playback speed is changed.

  • @CHEESEMAN88
    @CHEESEMAN88 11 дней назад

    Thanks & im interested in the online course

  • @TorBoy9
    @TorBoy9 Год назад

    This happens to me a lot. I have a 110v 100 amp buzz box, so can't turn up the amperage. The most I can do seems to be 3/32" 6013. I'll try the steeper electrode angle next time.

  • @amoldange1628
    @amoldange1628 4 месяца назад

    Thanks very much

  • @CesarHuerta-ih7oj
    @CesarHuerta-ih7oj 10 месяцев назад

    Good video brother

  • @westwater73
    @westwater73 Год назад

    I have to use 6013 in all positions I run them on DC- turn the amps up a tad and touch down slag peels leaving a very nice flat micro rippled bead. DC+ = Arc blow for what I weld.

  • @SF-fm7ov
    @SF-fm7ov 6 месяцев назад

    Can 7018 rod that has been sitting out for years be improved. I was thinking of drying them in an oven.

  • @whitneyshelton8600
    @whitneyshelton8600 11 месяцев назад

    So I was reading somewhere that on the 6011 Rods you need to dip them in water for them to run better. Is that correct?

  • @thatcrazyguy1971
    @thatcrazyguy1971 Год назад

    Nice one Tim, thank you. On some future video, could you maybe edit a picture of a welding in progress to show that boundary between the weld pool and slag, please? Not obvious to me with the 6013, not sure what I should be looking at.
    Rookie here hey 👋

    • @robertmintz63
      @robertmintz63 Год назад +1

      The slag should not exceed past the middle of the puddle . If you use an auto lens adjust so you can see the slag running around on the puddle . If you are using a regular green lens #11 then go to gold leaf (it blocks mor UV rays) & drop to #10 , that is all I ever used to use

  • @simonbroddle754
    @simonbroddle754 Месяц назад

    I've been stick welding for 50 years and still do but less nowadays. I listen, if you listen you can hear if the amperage is high as there's a lot of noise from the splatter. Likewise, too low amperage and the rod sounds as though the arc is drowning in the puddle rather than being on top of the job.
    Just my opinion, wondered what your thoughts are as I rarely hear, listening to the weld as a solution to help correct the amperage.

  • @aminjafary5498
    @aminjafary5498 4 месяца назад

    Good job!
    Could plz make a video on welding steel disk to steel rod.

  • @danielchongo8599
    @danielchongo8599 5 месяцев назад

    Hey Tim please help me... The recommendation rod and amp for 6mm plates

  • @reaper060670
    @reaper060670 10 месяцев назад

    I've been having the same issues at times. These are good tips. I'm only using 2.5mm think Square tubing. I have some angle bar & flat bar 40x40mm of the same thickness to practice with. It's all I have atm bcos funds are low. I cannt afford to be buying any thicker mterials right now so somebody told me 40-45A with 1.6/2.0 E6013 rods was good enough. Is that ok or should I actually try to go up to maybe 50-55A?? Any helpful advice would be very much appreciated guys.. Thanks to anybody who can give me any helpful tips here.

  • @narindershergill9236
    @narindershergill9236 11 месяцев назад

    Hi what is the steep angle? I’m struggling with travel speed too?