While these two bracing patterns are identical aside from the scalloping, Martin also has a non-scalloped design (NS 1 Style) that lightens the top in its own ways: • 1/4" bracing. • A generously tapered X (stiff center, freer edges). • A-frame freeing up the upper bout. • Larger angled bridge plate boxed in by one tone bar (again, stiffer center, stable bridge), but NO second/lower tone bar, thus freeing up the lower bout. I think its design--stiff-center, free-perimeter, and freer bouts--works incredibly well on my custom 000 12-fret (having had a handful of scalloped 000 12-frets)...warm, loud with a fast response, lots of bass, and lots of sustain.
I think a bigger effect of scalloping is the reduction of stiffness. Also, I've scalloped a number of guitars over the years, and the weight of shavings causes an insignificant change in the weight of the top.
Non-Scalloped will knock someone out cold with concussive force. Scalloped will break into small stabby bits that cause flesh damage. It's preference really.
Hmmm I wonder if you could increase the effect by perforating them with tiny holes (say 3/16”) as well as scalloping? Or scalloping and then taking a gouge and dishing them out a bit on the sides.
Does anyone have an opinion on which is better for finger style? Seems to me that scalloped would perhaps be best, given that with finger style you want to get as much volume and resonant response with the least amount of effort, so that you can concentrate more on nuanced expression than having to pull the sound out if it which takes away from your ability to be more relaxed and controlled. I for one find that when I feel I have to concentrate too much on really digging into the strings, it causes my hand/fingers to stiffen up, which makes playing all that much harder, and not only that, but I find that when you do have to do this, -- when you actually _have_ to really pull the sound out, you actually get a compromised tone. For one, I find that with really light strings, I can actually get _more_ volume out of them because I am able to get more with less effort, whereas with flat picking, on the other hand, although still brighter, can be more tinny thereby lending to less volume even with a greater attack.
It really depends on whether you prefer a light touch or a heavier one and how dynamic you play, including fingerstyle. I prefer straight bracing and I mostly play with my fingers, but on smaller body guitars (parlour and concert models) the scalloped bracing really seems to excel. But it depends on the individual guitar.
You only mentioned the advantages of scalloped and disadvantages of nonscalloped.. What about advantages of nonscalloped? Like stronger top, less susceptible to top raising due to humidity, etc
Because none of those things are true, it really doesn't make the top any less susceptible to climate changes, and should not be used as an excuse to neglect your guitar.
But my 2018 Martin HD28 does not have scalloped bracing. It has straight tapered, bracing also with tapered top edges. Can this be how some were manufactured?
The more I play scalloped guitars the more I prefer straight bracing, but like any instrument it really depends on that particular guitar and what you're doing with it.
That's because he is wrong. It's not harder to play. By that argument a solid body guitar would be impossible to play. The guitar may be slightly less loud, thats all.
Well Sitka is a type of Spruce and used for guitar tops. Sapele is a type of Mahogany and used mostly for the back and sides on guitars. These woods aren't usually compared to each other.
Anybody know the answer to this : I have a cheap Martin, a DRS-2, which came with an under-saddle PU. I never use pickups on acoustic guitars (much prefer microphones). If I take all the PU junk out of the guitar, will I notice an improvement in the acoustic sound of the instrument? Opinions?
Soundboard braces are scalloped to tune and control stiffness. The straight bracing has been used in response to an increase in guitars having soundboard problems due to a swing towards players using heavier strings. Guitarists need to be aware of the string tension limits their guitars are designed for. Sraight bracing guitars are designed for heavier strings.
it's easier/quicker to make, cheap guitars might have a single X or - made out of unfinished pieces of wood or sometimes no bracing at all.. also if you are a rhythm guitarist like Jack Black who strums hard all day long you might find the straight bracing sounds better for you as scalloped is too responsive and sounds muddy when you bash the hell outta it.
Soundboard braces are scalloped to tune and control stiffness. The straight bracing has been used in response to an increase in guitars having soundboard problems due to a swing towards players using heavier strings. Guitarists need to be aware of the string tension limits their guitars are designed for. Sraight bracing guitars are designed for heavier strings.
People who compare guitar lines often miss the power of bracing. Sadly, to too many Martin owners, the Martin tone goes beyond a preference to becoming akin to an addiction. So why would Gibson, Guild, Taylor, Breedlove etc want to mimic a Martin? Santa Cruz does, and that is their aim. But I am thankful for choices. My first real guitar was a Guild D35. It was a folk instrument because it matched mahogany to midrange tones that gave a wonderful warmth and depth. A tone I responded to.. Jackson Browne recorded his Saturate album with a D40. He got rid of a gifted Martin D41. But prejudice abounds where insecure players want to flash their favorite headstock as a badge of coolness and acceptance. Tone almost becomes secondary. With Guild, Ren Ferguson stopped by for awhile to tap into Guild's 60s and early 70s lightweight guitars before they overbuilt many later to avoid warranty work. I chose an all hog D20 over a Martin D15. I like that folk warmth and depth. Except Ren got more bass than the old D25, probably with tweaking the bracing. I had no problem picking the D20 over the D15. Both are great and maybe later I will get a D15. The point is this: being a Martin snob means you limit your tone on the alter of your insecurities. The rest of us enjoy the variety of tones out there to enjoy minus the headstock worship. Bracing opens up a palette of musical colors for us to enjoy.
Shopping for my first acoustic and you can't escape the Martin/solid wood/made in America snobs. One reason I'm buying a cheaper model, (Taylor) is I'm new to the humidity issues and living in Maine it's going to be a real learning process. All I need is to buy some $8,000 Martin just to have it crack out of inexperience. Also Taylor necks are easier to learn on I've heard. Lastly I'm a lefty and good luck find a left handed version of the guitar these "experts" have suggested to me. Ironically I was leaning toward the Martin 00-12E until they said it was a special order, not available for 3 months or so and then is non returnable, (Sweetwater that Martin sent me to as a dealer).
@@teleguy5699 The benefits of a solid wood acoustic on tone is not 'snobbery'. Taylor necks are not any easier to learn on than a Martin (both having been set up properly). What did you end up purchasing?
@@IRequireMedication No it's not snobbery, but it shows it's ugly head in some comments. Believe me, I deal with the BMW vs Audi fanboy wars for years. I said the Taylor necks were easier only by the reviews I read. I had no opinion myself as I was saying, it would be my first acoustic. I called Sweetwater to order the Martin but it would take months to "special order" so after getting advise on Yamaha's to buy and other comparable acoustics only to find out there are no lefty versions, the only one, (brand) available in my price range was the Taylor 214ce Koa that could arrive in a few days. I love that guitar as it is my first one and it is quality built and I think the tone is great for bedroom strumming. Also it's easier than having to setup amps and pedals. Just grab it from it's case, tune it up, and off you go. I should have bought the Baby Taylor for $99 that Sweetwater (and Taylor) was offering at Christmas time. I chose not to as I was worried about taking care of two acoustics initially. My post was about wanting to learn proper care. I will say, the D'Addario humidity pack system works great in my Maine fickle humidity world. Keeps it between 49% and 53% so far winter to summer. I just come back from vacation. I need to play 😉.
Larrivée all the way baby! Anyways when you get up into a certain price range of acoustic guitar, they're all awesome. The neck is what makes the real difference. Taylor guitars are awesome but their necks don't fit my hand very well at all. But they are still really high quality, obviously.
My mother used to make scalloped potatoes that had terrific sustain.
Give me scalloped every time, potatoes, bracing whatever. Much better and you know it.
Huh???
@@maxwellfan55 facts
Now that's funny!
The lack of extra bass and treble gives the non scalloped guitar more of a fundamental whole tone and that works very well on a D28 or a 00015sm
Clear, concise, to the point. Nice.
"D-18 New model 2012" has actually scalloped bracing (like in the old days). It's a nice sounding guitar btw. You have great videos.
I was going to say, why dont they scallop 18s also. Good question I guess.
While these two bracing patterns are identical aside from the scalloping, Martin also has a non-scalloped design (NS 1 Style) that lightens the top in its own ways:
• 1/4" bracing.
• A generously tapered X (stiff center, freer edges).
• A-frame freeing up the upper bout.
• Larger angled bridge plate boxed in by one tone bar (again, stiffer center, stable bridge), but NO second/lower tone bar, thus freeing up the lower bout.
I think its design--stiff-center, free-perimeter, and freer bouts--works incredibly well on my custom 000 12-fret (having had a handful of scalloped 000 12-frets)...warm, loud with a fast response, lots of bass, and lots of sustain.
Could this be why my 2018 Martin HD 28 is not scalloped.
I think a bigger effect of scalloping is the reduction of stiffness. Also, I've scalloped a number of guitars over the years, and the weight of shavings causes an insignificant change in the weight of the top.
Which one would inflict the most damage in a bar fight?
Non-Scalloped will knock someone out cold with concussive force. Scalloped will break into small stabby bits that cause flesh damage. It's preference really.
hahahahahahaha
The straight (non-scalloped) would win out every time.
Norlin era gibson
@@bluto212 If available, reach for a Les Paul...
Very informative. Thank you.
It would have been nice to play a guitar with scalloped bracing and one without to see if we can hear the difference .
Good point, and has been brought up by some other people I know once or twice before. Not every brace need be scalloped folks...
Awesome video that gives awesome lecture about guitar bracing!! Bravos 👏!!
👍👍👍👍👍
How you've changed over the years Tony... Same voice! Totally knew who this kid was instantly! LOL
Hmmm I wonder if you could increase the effect by perforating them with tiny holes (say 3/16”) as well as scalloping? Or scalloping and then taking a gouge and dishing them out a bit on the sides.
Try it or shut it
Does anyone have an opinion on which is better for finger style? Seems to me that scalloped would perhaps be best, given that with finger style you want to get as much volume and resonant response with the least amount of effort, so that you can concentrate more on nuanced expression than having to pull the sound out if it which takes away from your ability to be more relaxed and controlled. I for one find that when I feel I have to concentrate too much on really digging into the strings, it causes my hand/fingers to stiffen up, which makes playing all that much harder, and not only that, but I find that when you do have to do this, -- when you actually _have_ to really pull the sound out, you actually get a compromised tone. For one, I find that with really light strings, I can actually get _more_ volume out of them because I am able to get more with less effort, whereas with flat picking, on the other hand, although still brighter, can be more tinny thereby lending to less volume even with a greater attack.
*****
Ha ha! Hya Ironman :) So are you planning on having one custom made?
*****
You gonna do it yourself?
*****
Heeey, brotha! :) More power to ya. I'd like to see/hear it when it's done. So what style you goin' for?
Scalloped theoretically has better resonance.
It really depends on whether you prefer a light touch or a heavier one and how dynamic you play, including fingerstyle. I prefer straight bracing and I mostly play with my fingers, but on smaller body guitars (parlour and concert models) the scalloped bracing really seems to excel. But it depends on the individual guitar.
You only mentioned the advantages of scalloped and disadvantages of nonscalloped.. What about advantages of nonscalloped? Like stronger top, less susceptible to top raising due to humidity, etc
Because none of those things are true, it really doesn't make the top any less susceptible to climate changes, and should not be used as an excuse to neglect your guitar.
But my 2018 Martin HD28 does not have scalloped bracing. It has straight tapered, bracing also with tapered top edges. Can this be how some were manufactured?
Awesome thanks for you help mate...
Thank you so much!
The more I play scalloped guitars the more I prefer straight bracing, but like any instrument it really depends on that particular guitar and what you're doing with it.
Thank you!
does scalloped bracing make the guitar weaker over time?
Which one would you choose for a custom shop Martin 12 string guitar?
"This one is harder to play" ... "They're equally awesome" .. umm
That's because he is wrong. It's not harder to play. By that argument a solid body guitar would be impossible to play. The guitar may be slightly less loud, thats all.
Thank you! Very informative! Do you have a video explaining the difference between Sitka and Sapele, or just tell me the difference, please.
Well Sitka is a type of Spruce and used for guitar tops. Sapele is a type of Mahogany and used mostly for the back and sides on guitars. These woods aren't usually compared to each other.
Anybody know the answer to this : I have a cheap Martin, a DRS-2, which came with an under-saddle PU. I never use pickups on acoustic guitars (much prefer microphones).
If I take all the PU junk out of the guitar, will I notice an improvement in the acoustic sound of the instrument? Opinions?
Scallop or not to Scallop, the age old question.
So how doe each effect sound of the guitar. What exactly do you feel and nuisances. You said it takes a bit more to get the top moving.
Soundboard braces are scalloped to tune and control stiffness. The straight bracing has been used in response to an increase in guitars having soundboard problems due to a swing towards players using heavier strings. Guitarists need to be aware of the string tension limits their guitars are designed for. Sraight bracing guitars are designed for heavier strings.
I own an HD 28 2002. Is that a scalloped bracing?
Yes, HD-28s always had scalloped braces....
@@TheAcousticLetter awesome..thanks
So what, if any, is the advantage of straight bracing. And if there is none, why bother?
it's easier/quicker to make, cheap guitars might have a single X or - made out of unfinished pieces of wood or sometimes no bracing at all..
also if you are a rhythm guitarist like Jack Black who strums hard all day long you might find the straight bracing sounds better for you as scalloped is too responsive and sounds muddy when you bash the hell outta it.
Soundboard braces are scalloped to tune and control stiffness. The straight bracing has been used in response to an increase in guitars having soundboard problems due to a swing towards players using heavier strings. Guitarists need to be aware of the string tension limits their guitars are designed for. Sraight bracing guitars are designed for heavier strings.
People who compare guitar lines often miss the power of bracing. Sadly, to too many Martin owners, the Martin tone goes beyond a preference to becoming akin to an addiction.
So why would Gibson, Guild, Taylor, Breedlove etc want to mimic a Martin? Santa Cruz does, and that is their aim. But I am thankful for choices.
My first real guitar was a Guild D35. It was a folk instrument because it matched mahogany to midrange tones that gave a wonderful warmth and depth. A tone I responded to.. Jackson Browne recorded his Saturate album with a D40. He got rid of a gifted Martin D41.
But prejudice abounds where insecure players want to flash their favorite headstock as a badge of coolness and acceptance. Tone almost becomes secondary.
With Guild, Ren Ferguson stopped by for awhile to tap into Guild's 60s and early 70s lightweight guitars before they overbuilt many later to avoid warranty work. I chose an all hog D20 over a Martin D15. I like that folk warmth and depth. Except Ren got more bass than the old D25, probably with tweaking the bracing. I had no problem picking the D20 over the D15. Both are great and maybe later I will get a D15. The point is this: being a Martin snob means you limit your tone on the alter of your insecurities. The rest of us enjoy the variety of tones out there to enjoy minus the headstock worship. Bracing opens up a palette of musical colors for us to enjoy.
Shopping for my first acoustic and you can't escape the Martin/solid wood/made in America snobs. One reason I'm buying a cheaper model, (Taylor) is I'm new to the humidity issues and living in Maine it's going to be a real learning process. All I need is to buy some $8,000 Martin just to have it crack out of inexperience. Also Taylor necks are easier to learn on I've heard. Lastly I'm a lefty and good luck find a left handed version of the guitar these "experts" have suggested to me. Ironically I was leaning toward the Martin 00-12E until they said it was a special order, not available for 3 months or so and then is non returnable, (Sweetwater that Martin sent me to as a dealer).
@@teleguy5699 The benefits of a solid wood acoustic on tone is not 'snobbery'. Taylor necks are not any easier to learn on than a Martin (both having been set up properly). What did you end up purchasing?
@@IRequireMedication No it's not snobbery, but it shows it's ugly head in some comments. Believe me, I deal with the BMW vs Audi fanboy wars for years. I said the Taylor necks were easier only by the reviews I read. I had no opinion myself as I was saying, it would be my first acoustic. I called Sweetwater to order the Martin but it would take months to "special order" so after getting advise on Yamaha's to buy and other comparable acoustics only to find out there are no lefty versions, the only one, (brand) available in my price range was the Taylor 214ce Koa that could arrive in a few days. I love that guitar as it is my first one and it is quality built and I think the tone is great for bedroom strumming. Also it's easier than having to setup amps and pedals. Just grab it from it's case, tune it up, and off you go. I should have bought the Baby Taylor for $99 that Sweetwater (and Taylor) was offering at Christmas time. I chose not to as I was worried about taking care of two acoustics initially. My post was about wanting to learn proper care. I will say, the D'Addario humidity pack system works great in my Maine fickle humidity world. Keeps it between 49% and 53% so far winter to summer. I just come back from vacation. I need to play 😉.
Larrivée all the way baby!
Anyways when you get up into a certain price range of acoustic guitar, they're all awesome. The neck is what makes the real difference. Taylor guitars are awesome but their necks don't fit my hand very well at all. But they are still really high quality, obviously.
Get over yourself