I've been using 3rd party inks from the same company for about 20 years. Epson 1200, 2400, and currently a P600. The 2400 had a continuous ink system. I had plenty of blockages through lack of use and the cartridge switch was annoying but the printer went through 3 resets before I bought my p600. The quality of the prints has always been superb and the savings are more than just a few quid. I can only speak for A3+ printer use, which obviously costs more to run, but the cheaper ink allows me to print as much as I like which helps keep the printer running smoothly. As for custom profiles, I print out a target on my printer, using whatever inks I have chosen and send it off to be scanned (or whatever they do to make a custom profile), I'm not sure what you mean Keith when you say they would use Cannon/Epson inks to make a profile. That's not how custom profiles work in my experience. I think there are very good 3rd party ink companies out there but I've no doubt they're outnumbered by cheap and nasty ones. Also I learned to basic servicing of my printers through the ink supplier. The idea that I have to send my printer back to epson just to have the inkpads changed at a cost that makes it economically pointless (especially as it wouldn't be the same printer returned to me so I'd need to get more profiles made) when I can just redirect the inkflow into an external pot is another advantage I gained from using 3rd party.
Yes there is a 'typo' - they use OEM inks for supplied paper profiles and whatever you have for custom profiles. However, my main point is that I would never recommend 3rd party to anyone - for every person happy to experiment and get OK results, there will be others who don't. The idea of servicing printers (fine by me BTW), is an alien concept to most potential users. Indeed even getting custom profiles made is a step too far for most - particularly given the increased quality of manufacturer and paper supplier profiles and printer consistency. So, I cannot deny that 3rd party inks can be an acceptable option for a few people - just not most people who ask me, who don't look on it as an exercise in of itself. As one well known supplier of continuous ink system said to me: "Sure, we'll sell them as long as there is a profitable market, but I'd never use one in my own printer"
@@IcedLemons hi, I use Marrutt. Their inks and paper are really good. The only thing is that the black isnt as dark as the epson black. You can always use epson black along with the rest of the Marrutt inks.
I also only use genuine inks in all of my printers. I have repaired and restored quite a few printers in the past, and have seen the damage from the use of 3rd party ink. The issues are often with the design of the “compatible” cartridges. With a Canon printer’s thermal print head, having the proper flow of ink is very important. With the 3rd party cartridges, often the sponges are very poor quality and do not deliver ink properly. Great video!
I tried third party inks twice. The first time it basically destroyed the printer itself, and that after a lot more money for cleaning cartridges, time and effort. The second time I was assured by the seller that their products were vastly improved, but when the black cartridge stopped working (I got a communication error message) long before it was empty I became unnerved and returned the rest. So I agree. Original ink is the only way to go.
I've thought about using 3rd party inks and watched some of Jose Rodriguez u tube stuff on the topic... but I agree with you that the hassle - unknown output quality, cartridge chips unable to give any feedback after the first time used when refilled, as well as possible negating my printers warranty - make it a non-starter for me.
After several weeks of watching every video I could of your’s and Jose’s videos about the Pro 200 vs Pro 300, I just bought the 300 and it’s arriving tomorrow. Very excited. Thanks so much for all the great info you give.
Great Video again Keith, Too fade, or not to fade, this is the question. The third party ink research and development department, must have a century of experience.
I just bought a Canon Pro 300 and have had this argument with myself as to the question of 3rd party inks -- Thank you for resolving my quandary Keith!
Just replaced a print today printed about 18 months ago using 3rd party ink. It had faded significantly leaving a greasy residue on the overlying glass; there was no direct contact with the glass and the print was not framed for a day or so after printing. The paper was Epson gloss in an xp960 A3 printer. This is now used for office work, I use a Canon 100s with only Canon ink now for prints.
Yes, I've seen that. If you're putting prints of any kind behind glass it's good to leave for a while to allow for outgassing. I try and leave mine several days at least, but if I have the chance, a week won't harm.
Wonderful work that you do, Keith! You are a wealth of information and I've been following your work for a number of years. I'd like to share my third party ink experience using (only) Inkowl third party inks. I've run these for more than 8 years, first in an Epson 7880 and 4880, and more recently in Canon Prograf 2000 printers (I have two and run a large number of portraits through them for about 3-4 months per year; the rest of the year the printers get very low use). First: I only went to third party ink on these two provisos: a) I could seamlessly switch out-on cart at a time-my OEM inks and b) longevity was comparable. I can tell you unequivocally that the Inkowl inks perform so near to OEM, both Epson and Canon, as to be indistinguishable. Full disclosure: I have no affiliation with Inkowl. I'm merely their customer. I have saved significantly going to these inks, and the only downside is the lack of ink level reporting. I will add that I have numerous prints, some hanging in well lit areas, that have shown zero fade.
Yes, the only examples I've come across where it's a good idea are in higher volume applications, which also tend to be run on slimmer margins.. As to longevity - this is something that takes sophisticated testing to analyse. If you're in markets where archival capabilities are not going to be challenged (i.e. most of them) then the potential difference between 80 years and 150 years is not really going to rebound on you ;-)
I normally agree with what you say but on this occasion I have two slightly disagree I have been using third-party inks on my Epsom 3800 for the last five years or more and I personally think the company where I buy my ink from produce a better Quality ink for my printer. It is possible that my old printer is getting very old now that the printer head is more forgiving then the newer ones today. Keep up the good work
Yes - keeping an old printer going is one reason if you find the right inks, and have the skills to get good results. I know several people regularly using 3rd party pigment inks here in the UK, but it's not something I'd do, even with the capacity to make my own ICC profiles. However, in general, this video is perhaps more aimed at getting people to consider when 'cheap' comes at too high a price, especially for a new printer.
@@KeithCooper I personally think very shortly the new printers are going to come out with some sort of algorithm or firmware which will make it virtually impossible for you to use third-party inks?
I agree, whilst I know and used Rihac third party dye inks CIS on my Epson XP-960, saved considerable, excellent results too with general printing; if am able to go for pro-photo, you have explained good reason to use the printers own ink if I am to have realistic results.
I have the Pro 200 and so far used only Canon inks and the quality is great, I have been tempted to use other brands but past experience over the past twenty five years has taught me otherwise as there is no gurantee of consistency, some are good and some are not even of the suposed same brand. I ruined my Epson R1800 using different papers and inks and that was enough for me to stick with genuine supplies. So far after a year and a half my Pro 200 is working as it should every time and thinking of buying the Pro 1000.
I will say,ive used a uk based paper and ink supplier for years..on 3 epson printers...ive done extensive print comparisons with Oem ink..i can see no difference..and get no blockages on nozzles. I get bespoke paper/ink profiles..and very happy with result
I have used other inks and matching papers in other printers and they have been quite decent, but they will fade in a few years, especially in direct sunlight. I still use cheap inks for the office printer but as far as photo prints go I only use canon inks in my Pro 200 and the quality is as good as it gets.
You mentioned third party paper suppliers offering a custom profiling service and then claimed they would make the profiles using OEM inks, this isn't the case and may confuse some people. You have to print the target prints and then send them to the paper supplier, so the inks involved are whatever you have in your printer, be it OEM or third party.
Well spotted and thanks for commenting - my pet hate with video is that I can't fix typos... It should be that they supply free profiles (with OEM inks) and that they may do custom profiling which can help if you are happy to use 3rd party inks.
In general you are correct. But there are several high-quality ink vendors out there providing specific ICC profiles for their 3rd party ink @ paper combinations. Farbenwerk in Germany is well known. Precision colors in the US is also worth to be mentioned.
In my experience third party inks are more trouble than they are worth. The colour balance isn't quite right, the photos fade really quickly, and I've experienced clogging. My sister printed off a load of photos of the family and put them in a frame for my Dad's birthday present a couple of years ago. It was lovely and we hung it on a wall. Just 6 months later they had faded to the point that only the magenta ink was still visible. Compatible ink may be fine for documents that get filed away, but it's just not good enough for photos that are out on display and exposed to light. I have an Epson Ecotank now, and the cost of the ink is so low that it's not worth even considering the minuscule saving. £30 for a set of Epson ink, or £23 for "compatible". The risk isn't worth it to save a couple of quid a year.
@fullplaygames I just bought a Canon G620. My first megatank printer to get away from cartridges. I'm really impressed at the quality this thing puts out. So now I want to print 8.5 x 11 photos and frame them. I went to look on Amazon to find out how much the 6 bottles of ink would cost. $26 for all 6. Not bad at all. But I noticed it was 3rd party. I could only find the Canon bottles on their website. They are sold individually at $16 each! Thats $100! Wtf. That's how I came across this RUclips video. To see if I can get away with 3rd party ink. The savings are huge in this case.
My problem is that I'm still using a Pro 9000 - II, and although the printer is working fine, getting ink is harder and harder, and you NEVER see it discounted anymore. But I still use canon supplies, because I've seen what happens to a printhead from using the really cheap inks. Someone ruined a pro-100 that way.
Yes that is a good point - I was thinking of new printers. Keeping an old printer going is a good reason if you can find a suitably good ink and get good results from it.
See this thread at Printer Knowledge for an example and some aspects www.printerknowledge.com/threads/epson-xp-970-aftermarket-cartridges-colour-issues.16478/ Some cheap inks fade and drift colours very quickly - weeks For myself it's primarily about printer warranty, the need to make all new printer profiles and longevity - not immediately obvious
Hello Keith, I have a spare set of cheap ink I bought before realizing it was pigment and my et8550 ink was dye. I’ve read you shouldn’t print them without cleaning print head, and not all printers are meant to use pigment, but also notice the black only is different on the Epson. Is it okay to print with pigment once the other inks run out, how thoroughly should it all be cleaned if switching over? Difference in ink price US of 30$ vs 87$. Thanks
Mixing inks can cause issues - 'cleaning' is a very difficult operation with printers like the 8550 once primed. It only takes a small amount of ink left in the head for example to react together and the printer is ruined. The inks in an 8550 don't 'run out' - there is always ink in the system - running a head dry often damages it. If you want to use third party inks [such as dye sub inks for example] then they need to be the first inks used. I wouldn't try it even if you gave me the printer and inks for free ;-) Try finding examples of people using things like dye-sub to find the best techniques if you want to risk it. Of course, the 3d party inks will also need new icc profiles creating if colour accuracy or quality is of any importance.
Thanks - See the PRO-200 vs PRO-300 video since it is essentially about just that ruclips.net/video/fFmJcPK7KRw/видео.html It also links to my written reviews which are always where more technical info goes
I don’t disagree. Because of cost, I think print quality often comes down to no print at all against a 3rd party ink print. Particularly when the context is other than business. From a process point of view, adding printing to the workflow is a necessary step to gaining habitats and experience. The best printer ink is the one flowing through your print head. I really appreciate your videos and articles. Thank you.
One of the reason you may consider OEM inks only is for a situation like mine..Afer some short amount of prints from a BRAND NEW Canon Pro-10, I had used a few sheets that had some corner curve from humidity, and I was using 3rd party inks, and I started getting banding, and now I cannot get a clean nozzle check. It is 95-99% clean, but a slight weird area that changes keeps out of 100%. This give banding on areas with light coverage. Otherwise not so detectable on heavy ink areas. But many images have light coverage. So now I am wondering is it my 3rd Party inks from Precision Color, or is it something else from the paper curl I mad for a short while, etc..The OEM inks might help remove this variable in your debugging and testing. THE PC inks are very high quality results, but they are actually pretty pricey as a 3rd party ink. So you have to weigh the trouble, and the possible issues one can encounter.
I got an Epson Photo R1800 printer with Epson inks, only printed a few images and the ink dried in the head. I wasn’t able to clear it even with cleaning solution. I’ve used online printers since. I’ve still got it as I can’t bring myself to dump a printer that looks immaculate.
See this I wrote after being given a similar printer: www.northlight-images.co.uk/inkjet-printer-cleaning/ Have a look at the comments too, since people have sent in loads of tips and info about the process. The key in such cleaning is patience... However I'm afraid that sometimes they really are dead, just I hate admitting it ;-)
Thanks Keith lots of good advice there. I have in the past used lots of isopropanol on kitchen towel under the head, a cleaning kit and two sets of third party ink (just to test if any of the jets were still blocked, which they were). Maybe I’ll give it one last go with the solutions you mention on that page over a week as you suggest.
I use either Photoshop on its own or Photoshop with the Canon print software as a plugin. My copy of Photoshop is CS 6 - so not new! Some people like Lightroom, but I've never liked it myself. OK for small prints but not for large ones (A2 and upwards) IMHO. I'm looking at Affinity Photo for some testing and may give it a try when next testing a printer.
Hey guys i am almost to buy an Epson Sure Color p8000 of 44 inches wide, it uses 9 cartidge of ink, i wanna work eith fine arts, printing on Canvas and art papers, perhabs vinyls aswell, do you think third parties inks from trusted companies and good reputation would good enought to print accurate colors, and be lasting with the years ? please explain me more, and thank you !
Personally, if I was printing at any significant quality (enough to use the term 'fine art' in my promotion) I'd want the 12 ink P9500, not an 8000 I'd also not touch 3rd party inks with a 10 foot pole - their use yells 'cheap' at me ;-) Of course you would need to get some good profiling kit as well with 3rd party inks The 9000 (with Epson ink) is still a good printer though if handled well
Hey everyone, any suggestions on the best 3rd party ink brands you’ve come on by? I plan to print over 1000 pages soon and would like to save thank you
Have you heard of Precision color inks ? OR Ink Owl, there very very good inks, in some cases better, and there spot on and high quality, but those are the only 2 i think that are high quality.
Heard of them - would never use non OEM inks in a printer though. Not worth the hassle, from my own POV. YMMV, but I prefer to keep my printer warranty and not have to re-make my icc profiles.
Just think about the possibility of a batch of genuine third party ink suddenly gets swapped for a batch of a cheap Chinese knockoff thing mixed in a garage... the third party ink that may even produce fine results, and would maybe even last a decent time... and otherwise would not actually damage your printer... suddenly simply destroys the print head, because the seller thought 10% extra profit would be lovely that Xmas, or they didn't research the source well or got otherwise fooled. I pity you if you want to screw around with expensive hardware and these lucky games.
If you are spending several hundred pounds on a printer, especially a photo printer it makes no sense in buying third party ink. For office printers where quality is not that important, they are alright
I've been using 3rd party inks from the same company for about 20 years. Epson 1200, 2400, and currently a P600. The 2400 had a continuous ink system. I had plenty of blockages through lack of use and the cartridge switch was annoying but the printer went through 3 resets before I bought my p600. The quality of the prints has always been superb and the savings are more than just a few quid. I can only speak for A3+ printer use, which obviously costs more to run, but the cheaper ink allows me to print as much as I like which helps keep the printer running smoothly. As for custom profiles, I print out a target on my printer, using whatever inks I have chosen and send it off to be scanned (or whatever they do to make a custom profile), I'm not sure what you mean Keith when you say they would use Cannon/Epson inks to make a profile. That's not how custom profiles work in my experience. I think there are very good 3rd party ink companies out there but I've no doubt they're outnumbered by cheap and nasty ones. Also I learned to basic servicing of my printers through the ink supplier. The idea that I have to send my printer back to epson just to have the inkpads changed at a cost that makes it economically pointless (especially as it wouldn't be the same printer returned to me so I'd need to get more profiles made) when I can just redirect the inkflow into an external pot is another advantage I gained from using 3rd party.
Yes there is a 'typo' - they use OEM inks for supplied paper profiles and whatever you have for custom profiles.
However, my main point is that I would never recommend 3rd party to anyone - for every person happy to experiment and get OK results, there will be others who don't.
The idea of servicing printers (fine by me BTW), is an alien concept to most potential users. Indeed even getting custom profiles made is a step too far for most - particularly given the increased quality of manufacturer and paper supplier profiles and printer consistency.
So, I cannot deny that 3rd party inks can be an acceptable option for a few people - just not most people who ask me, who don't look on it as an exercise in of itself.
As one well known supplier of continuous ink system said to me:
"Sure, we'll sell them as long as there is a profitable market, but I'd never use one in my own printer"
Who do you get your 3rd party ink from? I have a p600 and I'm currently looking
@@IcedLemons hi, I use Marrutt. Their inks and paper are really good. The only thing is that the black isnt as dark as the epson black. You can always use epson black along with the rest of the Marrutt inks.
I also only use genuine inks in all of my printers. I have repaired and restored quite a few printers in the past, and have seen the damage from the use of 3rd party ink. The issues are often with the design of the “compatible” cartridges. With a Canon printer’s thermal print head, having the proper flow of ink is very important. With the 3rd party cartridges, often the sponges are very poor quality and do not deliver ink properly.
Great video!
Thanks - this is something I've been told about but had not personally seen. Another reason to avoid 'cheap'
I tried third party inks twice. The first time it basically destroyed the printer itself, and that after a lot more money for cleaning cartridges, time and effort. The second time I was assured by the seller that their products were vastly improved, but when the black cartridge stopped working (I got a communication error message) long before it was empty I became unnerved and returned the rest.
So I agree. Original ink is the only way to go.
Yes, whilst I know some do like them, I hear all too often of things being OK for a while and then when things do go wrong...
I've thought about using 3rd party inks and watched some of Jose Rodriguez u tube stuff on the topic... but I agree with you that the hassle - unknown output quality, cartridge chips unable to give any feedback after the first time used when refilled, as well as possible negating my printers warranty - make it a non-starter for me.
I agree - it's personally just never seemed worth the potential downsides.
I switched to precision colors and bought their sensor system. As good as Oem and cheaper. Sensor system is a game changer.
After several weeks of watching every video I could of your’s and Jose’s videos about the Pro 200 vs Pro 300, I just bought the 300 and it’s arriving tomorrow. Very excited. Thanks so much for all the great info you give.
Thanks - do read the articles as well though - many of my videos are only to supplement the full (written) articles/reviews
@@KeithCooper yes I’ve read about the 300 on your site.
Great Video again Keith, Too fade, or not to fade, this is the question.
The third party ink research and development department, must have a century of experience.
Thanks - the answer is once again 'it depends' ;-)
I just bought a Canon Pro 300 and have had this argument with myself as to the question of 3rd party inks -- Thank you for resolving my quandary Keith!
Glad it was of interest!
This video is out dated
Just replaced a print today printed about 18 months ago using 3rd party ink. It had faded significantly leaving a greasy residue on the overlying glass; there was no direct contact with the glass and the print was not framed for a day or so after printing. The paper was Epson gloss in an xp960 A3 printer. This is now used for office work, I use a Canon 100s with only Canon ink now for prints.
Yes, I've seen that.
If you're putting prints of any kind behind glass it's good to leave for a while to allow for outgassing. I try and leave mine several days at least, but if I have the chance, a week won't harm.
Which 3rd party ink are you referring to?
@@nickmoran1 don't remember, only use manufacturer's for photos and stinkyink for documents.
@@nickmoran1 on separate printers
Wonderful work that you do, Keith! You are a wealth of information and I've been following your work for a number of years.
I'd like to share my third party ink experience using (only) Inkowl third party inks. I've run these for more than 8 years, first in an Epson 7880 and 4880, and more recently in Canon Prograf 2000 printers (I have two and run a large number of portraits through them for about 3-4 months per year; the rest of the year the printers get very low use).
First: I only went to third party ink on these two provisos: a) I could seamlessly switch out-on cart at a time-my OEM inks and b) longevity was comparable. I can tell you unequivocally that the Inkowl inks perform so near to OEM, both Epson and Canon, as to be indistinguishable. Full disclosure: I have no affiliation with Inkowl. I'm merely their customer. I have saved significantly going to these inks, and the only downside is the lack of ink level reporting.
I will add that I have numerous prints, some hanging in well lit areas, that have shown zero fade.
Yes, the only examples I've come across where it's a good idea are in higher volume applications, which also tend to be run on slimmer margins..
As to longevity - this is something that takes sophisticated testing to analyse. If you're in markets where archival capabilities are not going to be challenged (i.e. most of them) then the potential difference between 80 years and 150 years is not really going to rebound on you ;-)
I normally agree with what you say but on this occasion I have two slightly disagree I have been using third-party inks on my Epsom 3800 for the last five years or more and I personally think the company where I buy my ink from produce a better Quality ink for my printer.
It is possible that my old printer is getting very old now that the printer head is more forgiving then the newer ones today.
Keep up the good work
Yes - keeping an old printer going is one reason if you find the right inks, and have the skills to get good results. I know several people regularly using 3rd party pigment inks here in the UK, but it's not something I'd do, even with the capacity to make my own ICC profiles.
However, in general, this video is perhaps more aimed at getting people to consider when 'cheap' comes at too high a price, especially for a new printer.
@@KeithCooper I personally think very shortly the new printers are going to come out with some sort of algorithm or firmware which will make it virtually impossible for you to use third-party inks?
@@robertlee6635 I have heard that some new printers are more difficult in this respect, but it's not an area where I have any significant expertise
I agree, whilst I know and used Rihac third party dye inks CIS on my Epson XP-960, saved considerable, excellent results too with general printing; if am able to go for pro-photo, you have explained good reason to use the printers own ink if I am to have realistic results.
I have the Pro 200 and so far used only Canon inks and the quality is great, I have been tempted to use other brands but past experience over the past twenty five years has taught me otherwise as there is no gurantee of consistency, some are good and some are not even of the suposed same brand. I ruined my Epson R1800 using different papers and inks and that was enough for me to stick with genuine supplies. So far after a year and a half my Pro 200 is working as it should every time and thinking of buying the Pro 1000.
Yes - very similar here...
I will say,ive used a uk based paper and ink supplier for years..on 3 epson printers...ive done extensive print comparisons with
Oem ink..i can see no difference..and get no blockages on nozzles.
I get bespoke paper/ink profiles..and very happy with result
Yes - they can work for some people, the key is often the profiling.
I have used other inks and matching papers in other printers and they have been quite decent, but they will fade in a few years, especially in direct sunlight. I still use cheap inks for the office printer but as far as photo prints go I only use canon inks in my Pro 200 and the quality is as good as it gets.
Yes - a lot comes down to what you want to do with the inks
You mentioned third party paper suppliers offering a custom profiling service and then claimed they would make the profiles using OEM inks, this isn't the case and may confuse some people. You have to print the target prints and then send them to the paper supplier, so the inks involved are whatever you have in your printer, be it OEM or third party.
Well spotted and thanks for commenting - my pet hate with video is that I can't fix typos...
It should be that they supply free profiles (with OEM inks) and that they may do custom profiling which can help if you are happy to use 3rd party inks.
In general you are correct. But there are several high-quality ink vendors out there providing specific ICC profiles for their 3rd party ink @ paper combinations. Farbenwerk in Germany is well known. Precision colors in the US is also worth to be mentioned.
Yes, some are better than others - I'll still pick OEM inks though.
Precision colours is Canadian
In my experience third party inks are more trouble than they are worth. The colour balance isn't quite right, the photos fade really quickly, and I've experienced clogging.
My sister printed off a load of photos of the family and put them in a frame for my Dad's birthday present a couple of years ago. It was lovely and we hung it on a wall. Just 6 months later they had faded to the point that only the magenta ink was still visible.
Compatible ink may be fine for documents that get filed away, but it's just not good enough for photos that are out on display and exposed to light.
I have an Epson Ecotank now, and the cost of the ink is so low that it's not worth even considering the minuscule saving. £30 for a set of Epson ink, or £23 for "compatible". The risk isn't worth it to save a couple of quid a year.
Thanks for noting that - not something I'd put in a printer of mine.
@fullplaygames I just bought a Canon G620. My first megatank printer to get away from cartridges. I'm really impressed at the quality this thing puts out. So now I want to print 8.5 x 11 photos and frame them.
I went to look on Amazon to find out how much the 6 bottles of ink would cost. $26 for all 6. Not bad at all. But I noticed it was 3rd party. I could only find the Canon bottles on their website. They are sold individually at $16 each! Thats $100! Wtf. That's how I came across this RUclips video. To see if I can get away with 3rd party ink. The savings are huge in this case.
My problem is that I'm still using a Pro 9000 - II, and although the
printer is working fine, getting ink is harder and harder, and you
NEVER see it discounted anymore. But I still use canon supplies,
because I've seen what happens to a printhead from using the
really cheap inks. Someone ruined a pro-100 that way.
Yes that is a good point - I was thinking of new printers.
Keeping an old printer going is a good reason if you can find a suitably good ink and get good results from it.
I wish someone would show me the difference on physical photos
See this thread at Printer Knowledge for an example and some aspects
www.printerknowledge.com/threads/epson-xp-970-aftermarket-cartridges-colour-issues.16478/
Some cheap inks fade and drift colours very quickly - weeks
For myself it's primarily about printer warranty, the need to make all new printer profiles and longevity - not immediately obvious
Hello Keith, I have a spare set of cheap ink I bought before realizing it was pigment and my et8550 ink was dye. I’ve read you shouldn’t print them without cleaning print head, and not all printers are meant to use pigment, but also notice the black only is different on the Epson. Is it okay to print with pigment once the other inks run out, how thoroughly should it all be cleaned if switching over? Difference in ink price US of 30$ vs 87$. Thanks
Mixing inks can cause issues - 'cleaning' is a very difficult operation with printers like the 8550 once primed. It only takes a small amount of ink left in the head for example to react together and the printer is ruined.
The inks in an 8550 don't 'run out' - there is always ink in the system - running a head dry often damages it.
If you want to use third party inks [such as dye sub inks for example] then they need to be the first inks used.
I wouldn't try it even if you gave me the printer and inks for free ;-)
Try finding examples of people using things like dye-sub to find the best techniques if you want to risk it.
Of course, the 3d party inks will also need new icc profiles creating if colour accuracy or quality is of any importance.
Not a rabbit hole I'm willing to go down, I'll stick w/Canon.
Can't disagree there...
Hope to see a video on the difference between pigment and dye ink soon? Great content
Thanks - See the PRO-200 vs PRO-300 video since it is essentially about just that
ruclips.net/video/fFmJcPK7KRw/видео.html
It also links to my written reviews which are always where more technical info goes
For my office printer I use cheap third party inks, and they work just fine. But for my photo printer I use genuine OEM inks.
Yes, that's why this is about photo printing - we've used inks from a local supplier for office use in the past
I don’t disagree. Because of cost, I think print quality often comes down to no print at all against a 3rd party ink print. Particularly when the context is other than business. From a process point of view, adding printing to the workflow is a necessary step to gaining habitats and experience. The best printer ink is the one flowing through your print head.
I really appreciate your videos and articles. Thank you.
Thanks - glad they're of interest
One of the reason you may consider OEM inks only is for a situation like mine..Afer some short amount of prints from a BRAND NEW Canon Pro-10, I had used a few sheets that had some corner curve from humidity, and I was using 3rd party inks, and I started getting banding, and now I cannot get a clean nozzle check. It is 95-99% clean, but a slight weird area that changes keeps out of 100%.
This give banding on areas with light coverage. Otherwise not so detectable on heavy ink areas. But many images have light coverage.
So now I am wondering is it my 3rd Party inks from Precision Color, or is it something else from the paper curl I mad for a short while, etc..The OEM inks might help remove this variable in your debugging and testing. THE PC inks are very high quality results, but they are actually pretty pricey as a 3rd party ink. So you have to weigh the trouble, and the possible issues one can encounter.
Yes - it's that uncertainty that doesn't appeal to me.
I got an Epson Photo R1800 printer with Epson inks, only printed a few images and the ink dried in the head. I wasn’t able to clear it even with cleaning solution. I’ve used online printers since. I’ve still got it as I can’t bring myself to dump a printer that looks immaculate.
See this I wrote after being given a similar printer:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/inkjet-printer-cleaning/
Have a look at the comments too, since people have sent in loads of tips and info about the process.
The key in such cleaning is patience...
However I'm afraid that sometimes they really are dead, just I hate admitting it ;-)
Thanks Keith lots of good advice there. I have in the past used lots of isopropanol on kitchen towel under the head, a cleaning kit and two sets of third party ink (just to test if any of the jets were still blocked, which they were). Maybe I’ll give it one last go with the solutions you mention on that page over a week as you suggest.
Hi from México.
What software do you recommend using to print to a canon pro 300?
I use either Photoshop on its own or Photoshop with the Canon print software as a plugin.
My copy of Photoshop is CS 6 - so not new! Some people like Lightroom, but I've never liked it myself. OK for small prints but not for large ones (A2 and upwards) IMHO. I'm looking at Affinity Photo for some testing and may give it a try when next testing a printer.
Hey guys i am almost to buy an Epson Sure Color p8000 of 44 inches wide, it uses 9 cartidge of ink, i wanna work eith fine arts, printing on Canvas and art papers, perhabs vinyls aswell, do you think third parties inks from trusted companies and good reputation would good enought to print accurate colors, and be lasting with the years ? please explain me more, and thank you !
Personally, if I was printing at any significant quality (enough to use the term 'fine art' in my promotion) I'd want the 12 ink P9500, not an 8000
I'd also not touch 3rd party inks with a 10 foot pole - their use yells 'cheap' at me ;-) Of course you would need to get some good profiling kit as well with 3rd party inks
The 9000 (with Epson ink) is still a good printer though if handled well
I would never use 3rd party inks. No point in buying a great printer and then saving a few pence by putting 3rd party ink in it. :-)
Yes - like buying the very cheapest paper.
Hey everyone, any suggestions on the best 3rd party ink brands you’ve come on by? I plan to print over 1000 pages soon and would like to save thank you
Not something I can help with - I only use original inks in my reviews and testing.
Have you heard of Precision color inks ? OR Ink Owl, there very very good inks, in some cases better, and there spot on and high quality, but those are the only 2 i think that are high quality.
Heard of them - would never use non OEM inks in a printer though.
Not worth the hassle, from my own POV.
YMMV, but I prefer to keep my printer warranty and not have to re-make my icc profiles.
Very interesting
Thanks!
I will not use 3rd party inks for any of my professional work.
I'd agree
Noooooo!!!!!!
Yes, that's the short version of the video ;-)
@@KeithCooper 🤣🤣🤣 ‼‼
buy cheap, buy twice
Yes, I'd agree...
Just think about the possibility of a batch of genuine third party ink suddenly gets swapped for a batch of a cheap Chinese knockoff thing mixed in a garage... the third party ink that may even produce fine results, and would maybe even last a decent time... and otherwise would not actually damage your printer... suddenly simply destroys the print head, because the seller thought 10% extra profit would be lovely that Xmas, or they didn't research the source well or got otherwise fooled. I pity you if you want to screw around with expensive hardware and these lucky games.
Not a choice I'd go for for one of my own printers...
@@KeithCooper Sorry the "you" part was going out for silly third party fans out there, not You as the uploader.
If you are spending several hundred pounds on a printer, especially a photo printer it makes no sense in buying third party ink. For office printers where quality is not that important, they are alright
yes, I'd completely agree