I love the way that Mr. Wright works. I am new at making hand tools, had some early failures, but still learning. Any guidance and help I can receive is appreciated. I am not discouraged by failures. It just makes me want to do better and I will. Thank you, Mr. Wright for your U-tube site.
Wow, that is a thing of beauty and elegance, I'm a handyman but wanna- be Carpenter. Your skill, patience and attention to detail is incredible, and this coming from the brother of a higly skilled cabinet-maker, thanks for sharing it. Regards Dave
Knifemaking is a whole other rabbit hole to crawl down. I started about 2 years ago and have made about 20 knives. I do use an angle grinder to cut the initial knife blank shape, but a hack saw and time can accomplish exactly the same thing. Most of the rest is done with hand files and sandpaper, but of course there is the heat treatment that must be done using power (although burning lump charcoal is pretty primitive power). The handle scales can be made of wood or home-made micarta using strips of fabric/denim/paper and epoxy or fiberglass resin. I shape them with a rasp, files, and sandpaper after epoxying them to the knife tang. The only other part that might use power is drilling the pin holes in the tang, but I suppose you could use a hand drill for that. Try it out. You'll probably get hooked on that too. 😊
I just found your channel and video while researching to build my own Plane. I love your formatt, long or short, and that your son is with you in the shop, and later at the tool conventions.
You’ve got an awful critic you shouldn’t listen to, his name is James Wright. This is a brilliant video and far from too long, I’d much rather have all the tips and hints you give as I’m sure most would. You are a phenomenal teacher, you’ve taught me more than anyone and I do appreciate it. Please don’t apologise for what you are giving those of us who can't commit to Patreon for free. I love you passion for teaching others, it’s something special. Your planes looked absolutely awesome, you did a really good job. I’ve got a wooden Jack very very cheap that has a repair next to the mouth and I'm thinking of re-soling it, it’s already beech with an ash sole. This has taught me a lot about how to approach the job. Thank you. Was that the younger Arthur or his brother, I do like how the children are allowed to spend time with you when you are working.
Wow, I was strolling through some woodworking video's and came across your making of a hand plane. You have inspired me. I have bookmarked this video and put it in my projects of things to make. I also like your narrations ( excellent) and your your right its not about the end goal but the processes. I also like the children running around in your workshop. I bet they are going to be craftsman like their Daddy :-)
Great job, and great video. I have made a basic plane or two, but never something this intricate. I learned a lot about using the chisel more precisely here. Thank you.
Might be the coolest video I have seen. I’m 16 and started my hand tool experience at 15 and am working my way through the Lie Neilsen line and developing a collection. I am hooked and hope to be making this fine of work soon. Keep it up sir
I’m going to do my best however I don’t currently have the joinery tools to cut the joinery like you have but in time I may. My build will probably be a little simpler but I hope to achieve a high quality piece from design. I’m going to try and make my own blade like you did. 100% all me not a kit
Well that's a funny coincidence. I have used that same shape for guitar fretboard inlays not to long ago. 15:48 It is quite a sexy shape though so im not surprised we both came up with it. Though, mine had thinner edges, something like 3mm wide.
I actually wear wooden clogs in the shop everyday. Incredibly comfortable and protective. But if I were to sell one of these he would probably be somewhere around $1,000 to 1300.
very nice james..and congrats to the winner..one these days ill make one..but first i need to complete the hand tool challenge. after this weekend ill be able to start it..tha ks james!-
I think the two hand planes look fantastic James. I would really love to make my own out of purple heart but it is difficult to find in the UK and very expensive. Always looking forward to the next video.
Just have to advise against using a glass jar for oil tempering. The heat stress could crack the glass and depending on the flashpoint of the oil, cause a serious fire. I store my oil in an empty 1 gal metal paint can that never had paint in it ( most paint stores will sell you one) and I quench in the same vessel.
4:34 I have a couple questions at this point in the build. Are the wood sections relevant for a specific reason? Appearances? Durability, grain stability, splinteryness v denseness while working? (Is that a term? I had a random hardwood chunk put off so many splinters while I was trying to work with it that I finally tossed it into the waste bin. It was from woodcraft and not a random pallet or anything. I have no idea what it was, but I know if I see it again it looks like Mahogany.) Also, at this point do you have to cut your wood and let it rest at all to release any internal stress? When working with larger blocks is there any consideration to the orientation of the grain when it comes to long-term stability? so I guess three major
It is just for looks. If the grain is strait then there in not much need to let it rest. It is actually better to do the joinery in one day so that it does not move due to moisture changes.
Once again, Fantastic. Someone probably suggested this but here goes..., To get the cross grooves, could you use the rabbet plane all the way across then when making the hole for the blade just make sure it isn't where the cross cuts are?
+Paul Meyette Sounds like an interesting way to spend a lunch break. I like to keep most videos between 5 and 10 minutes but I have a lot of people ask for 30-60 minute videos. I have thought of creating an other channel for long form videos. and just keep these shorter. but we will see.
Nope. They don't produce much at all. And what the saw does create falls rather then getting blown up into the air. There's a reason that only a saw creates a sawdust and a hand tool shop. Every other tool creates chips or curls. But in a power tool shop every tool creates sawdust.
I'm not trying to imply anything with this question but: do you still use that plane up to this day? I've seen a lot of people make planes and I'm under the impression that a lot of them make them and leave them for display, never using them again. Love the plane by the way.
I used it for about a year then gave it away as a prize when i hit 100K subs. but yes I did use it quite a few times. it was not as easy to adjust as modern planes, but it felt so good in the hand.
Hi James, Big fan. I have a question about a chip breaker in addition to the wedge. I've seen the kits from Hock tools, and they have a chip breaker with the blade. Any recommendations on including a chip breaker? I also have some 2"x3/16" O1 precision ground bar stock, and is it as simple as cutting an extra bar and attaching it with a screw after threading it? Thank you for all you do! You're converting me from a power tool user into a hand tool user.
yes. If you can add a chip breaker it makes smoothing difficult wood much easier. I did not put one on here would have taken more then making the rest of the plane. but if I just bought the blade and chip breaker together it would be a lot easier.
+Jason Zvokel I bought that Bow saw from a Craig's list ad. I have not seen where to get them. But if I ever needed another one I would probably file it myself.
are there some some ticks to excavate the mortise usinga chisel and a mallet only? I'm trying on some scrap pine but it doesn't seems suoper accurate...not the level required to an hand plane....
yup that is difficult. that is why the traditional method is with file or float. the easiest way is to cut another block of wood at that correct angle then clamp it to the top of the body. you can use that to rest the chisel on and slide the chisel down the bed ar that angle.
Wood By Wright Many t hanks!!! I 'm sawing Wood in order to make the jig you talked about. There is always the " chisel bevel effect" : the tendency of our chisel to stick in Wood following his bevel inclunation..probably a narrower grinding angle will help a bit
Where did you come up with this design? I really like the idea of making a wooden plane with 2 different woods like this. I would like to try my hand at making a smoother with paper birch on the top and lignum vitae on the bottom.
Right on. I kinda figured such would be the answer. I like the look you came up with so i may make a similar one. (copying is a form of flattery). I'll send you a pic if i like it, and if i like it i will probably make a series of planes like a jack, jointer, etc. I enjoy your videos, keep up the great content. And also i will be attending the midwest tool collectors swap meet in minnesota in October. Not sure if you travel all over to go to these but this will be the first time going for me so i am really excited for it.
I apologize for this verbose post but there is a serious question at the end... I greatly appreciate your 'only by hand ethic'! Years ago, I used to do design/production in a well appointed shop by day, and work in a hybrid Lightship/Shaker basket style at night, completely by hand, starting with a brown ash log. My baskets, and some tables adapted to the style hit the same wall that your plane has; 60 to 80 hours of work per piece put them out of range for most people. I've begun collecting and restoring hand tools and am in the process of beginning a purely functional shave horse. I've also decided that I need a very small (no bigger than 2' x 3-4' x 24"), heavy bench (kneeling or stool bench), possibly made from 20+ year old 5" cherry. Do you have any thoughts to offer on features and feasibility? Whew, Thanks!
Long story short... I've been replacing handles on a wide range of edge tools, and am currently working on my couch and on a 3' x4' x 18" coffee table that I'd like back as a coffee table. I've mostly been whittling and scraping with a little chisel work, and I find that I like subtractive work and restoration. With a low table I can sit or kneel and work, or simply lay the piece and decide what's next. The wood and tool version of someone knitting. I have an opportunity to consign pieces, and I think a bench along the lines of my coffee table would speed my work. I have the cherry which would be beefy (and perhaps better used), or I could laminate 3/4-plywood and sandbag. Dogs and holdfasts enough? How effective would a vice be? My ultimate goal is to make pin money. I have the opportunity to buy back the very same Conover lathe that I was compelled to sell 25 years ago. A shave-horse, bowl-mule, small table, lathe, would keep me smiling!
well in general, you have to be able to hold work vertical, Falt and on edge. normally a tail vice will allow you to hold something flat and on edge and then in the vice vertically. dogs and hold fast work great for face and some edge work but will not hold a board vertical. so that is one of the reasons why I am constantly using a vice.
Yup, I was just looking for another voice to say that. I'd already thought about extended jaws on a removable old Record vise for short vertical work. Smaller scale standard vises, yeah. After watching you and Bearcat, I think I'll save the cherry (old T. Moser scrap stock), it's what I used for personal and production basket molds. Thank you, you've been very helpful, AND vastly enjoyable to watch, I do enjoy work by hand.
I've become interested in tool making lately... so my question is this : if you were to make a jointing plane, would you make it the same way? what would you do differently? would the length of the plane affect how you make it?
it would be the same way but longer and with a tote behind the iron. It is on my list to soon make a full set of planes for my shop but that might be down the list a wase.
Just a thought from a newbie... Wouldnt it have been easier to use vertical dowels to achieve the same thing as the grid between the two pieces of wood.?
Stopt-cut, work to the line. That is easy! When are you going to challenge yourself 😜 Just kidding. They look very cool, shame I didn't win. But with the content I'm still a winner, lol. Question: why did you reset the grooving plane for the two outer grooves in the purple heart, and not flip the wood around? Was it because of grain direction or to get the spacing correct? Also, did you use shavings for the packaging? And lastly, any tips on the placement of the hole for the brass rod in the plane body? Thanks for your time and have a great day.
+Nearoth the plane body was not perfectly square and true because it would be shaped. and even if it was it is still best to reference off the same side to keep the grooves parallel. I Did pack it with some shavings. that was a must! the only important thing with the pin is to keep it parallel with the iron and the sole I like mine to be about 1/4" away from the iron but that is determined by the wedge. and it is easier to adjust the wedge then the position of the pin. you always ask the best questions! thanks. I wish more people asked questions like this!
+Wood By Wright thanks ☺. I guess most either know the answers or watch it for the content? But yeah referencing from one side is usually the best, I guess I'm used to the power tool guys who have everything so dialed in that flipping it is more acurate. Do you have a problem with blow-out when drilling the hole for the pin? Since you can't drill from inside the body. Or would you drill the hole before you remove the inside? Starting a new job soon, hope it will help fund finishing the workshop, lol. Daddy needs to make a plane.
James, noticed that you did a brass pin with the wood wedge. Have you ever made one with the wedges are built on the sides (I dunno what the woodworking term is...)? Do you know the difference or is it just builders style? I'm planning to make a few myself and was curious.
+Frank Rodrigues I have not done one that way (traditional wedge) but some day I will they require a thicker side wall about are nice as the body is more open.
how did you plane that purple heart so easily? I love the look of the wood but most of the time when I plane it it's a whole lot of tear out. do I just need to work on sharpening more?
Had to watch this one again because I'm thinking about giving it a try myself, you didn't include the part where you flattened the bottom, and it's a smoothing plane but you didn't take any full width shavings ? :-P Still a nice video.
Thanks for the great video. I am trying to find a source of the O1 tool steel but not having much luck. Can you recommend a source for that? Keep up the great work that you do. :-D
+Derrick Kerr I normally order mine through McMaster or Amazon here www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461409240&sr=8-1&keywords=o1+tool+steel just chose what sizes you want. both also offer A2 steel very slimier but is hardened in water.
So if you decide to do production then you'd make something like router jigs for all the dados and rabbets. Then you'd have to clean up the corners but you can make a jig to guide your chisels. You'd reduce the time from 8 hours per to 45 minutes per.
Absolutely. I know several people who turned their beloved hobby into a business and they say it ruined it for them. That's why I said you have to decide if it's worth it. I'm not trying to talk you into doing it. I was just saying you could if you wanted to and make money at it. But yeah, you'd pretty much have to use machines. But there are people out there who get premium prices for hand-made items. So you *could* use hand tools but chances of success there are very low and you'd have become a "name" that people associate with the best of the best. I see custom knives being sold for thousands of dollars. We all know they aren't thousands-of-dollars better knives. It's getting something no one else has and the person who made it.
An easy way to deal with the angles when chiseling is to just cut a correctly angled block and glue it on the top of the plane as a guide. If you put a piece of paper between the joint, you can just break the block off with a hammer and clean up the glue when you are done, or you could saw it off. You do need a long chisel. Stubby Japanese ones won't work for this.
that does work but I prefer freehand it teaches the skills rather than relying on a jig. but to each their own. that is what makes the sport so much fun!
Using a jig is a skill. It is simply a smart way to accomplish a task. Leaving less to chance. Is that a jig on your plane (the fence you used to fashion your elaborate sole)? I think it is.
Sorry I worded that wrong. it is not that I do not like jigs I just try not to use them if I can learn the skill with out. I have cut groove without a fence or planed boards without a plane body (just using a chisel) there is definitely a time an place for jigs and I use them often when they save time. but that is what makes the sport fun what saves time for you or what you find fun is vastly different from me. we each have to find the way that suits the way we work.
+The WoodWorking Junkie Here is the video on it. the video is old but it gives the general idea. all told cost me about $15 ruclips.net/video/7C9xaWDzsbI/видео.html
@@shonuffisthemaster free power tools? That's great! I get power tools for free or next to it. They're cheaper and more plentiful than hand tools. I built my 12" grinder myself so it didn't cost me anything. I made it out of all scrap metal I had lying around. The arbor was something I found in my grandfather's cellar too. It was an old flat belt drive that I converted over to V belt drive.
If it helps, you could make 10 minute episodes in multiple parts. part 1, part 2, part 3,etc. That way you do not over work your computer and we still get all the content you wanted to enclude.
I do not know. it is a cheap one from the 50s but it works great. I have a pile of them that I get all the time for $1 or less. great gifts to new woodworkers.
well, a tenon saw is always a rip cut it is designed to make deep cuts with the grain like the cheeks of a tenon. but of all the backsaws the Carcass saw is the one I use the most. not as deep as the tenon saw, and I do far more cross-cutting then I do fine ripping. most ripping I reach for my panel saws.
Wood By Wright I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to read and answer my question. Keep putting out these great videos your projects and techniques have been such an inspiration for my projects! I have learned so much from you.
I could save some time, but to save. A bunch with power tool the design would have to change as there are several steps that could not be done with power tools.
That is the reason most planes made with power tools cut the sides off first, then cut out the moth from the center block. You can't cut the mouth with power tools without doing that.
I have never been able to produce anything with my Stanley 45 except a whole lot of swearing. I've found it impossible to find a happy place between cutting too deeply and diving into the piece or not cutting anything at all. It looks like you were successful but still, it didn't look like a really smooth process. What would be a good alternative?
+wickedmessenger1 a 45 will never be as smooth as a dedicated molding plane because of a state rather then a full sole. But if it is sharp it will do the job nicely. Adjusting depth can be tricky and takes some fiddling. What cutters are you having problems with?
i really liked this video and your ideology about enjoying the work as much as the project. i really like the mating of the sole and body on your planes. i am a hybrid woodworker but im starting to slide more and more into hand work because its fun! i recently made a lamination method wooden plane as an experiment and i was astounded. it was pretty easy and it works as well as an expensive veritas it shares a shelf with now. i made it from an iron and breaker i had and an oak short! i thought i might fail on the build or it would be black magic to adjust or that it wouldnt perform. wrong wrong wrong. i almost wonder if i speak about this if lee valley and lie nielson will put a hit on me. i have ordered another iron! next! i have to say im still hybrid, between watching you cut your own blade!!!!!!!!! and fidgen mill a cord of walnut by hand i still find some reasons to roll out a cord! im afraid the whale oil lanterns might burn down my shop! but i liked this and subscribed and look forward to catching up with all youve done and have coming. thanks for sharing.
The set from Aldi is my go to chisel. they are not as god as most of the higher quality but for the price they can not be beaten. Part of the channel is showing how you can get into woodworking for almost nothing so I use tools I have restored or the cheaper versions.
What exactly is the benefit of the elaborate joinery on the sole? Are you afraid that an ordinary glue joint will just fall off as you plane? Dude, you have way too much unstructured free time.
LOL it is just for the look. back when glues were less relable this was often done as they did come free with just a flat joint. but now they are sometimes done this way for tradition sake and the fun of it.
The last I made from wood were exotic wood coffee table boxes which sold for $700 (sounds like a lot but the gallery took 50%). Before that cabinetmaking. Before that finish carpentry. Before that I had time to make my own tools! Of course you're right in building something just for the joy of it. I'm just old and cranky.
@@jthepickle7 there is a reason I don't sell anything I make. I want to keep the fun without the biz. The last pece of furniture I sold was a small dresser for $12,000. It was not as much fun as then next one that I made for myself.
Hand tools? Are you serious? No wonder it takes you too long. A CNC machining center would spit one of these out in minutes. Get with the times already!
@@WoodByWright you're right. I had my electronics going as I built my CNC machine. That kept the hand cranking down to a minimum. Wiring machines up last is a common rookie mistake.
I love the way that Mr. Wright works. I am new at making hand tools, had some early failures, but still learning. Any guidance and help I can receive is appreciated. I am not discouraged by failures. It just makes me want to do better and I will. Thank you, Mr. Wright for your U-tube site.
thank you Jim. that means a lot. if I can ever help just ask!
That's not Tool Making... That's Art.
Hand made, unique and beautiful.
thanks Jo. that was a fun one to make.
Wow, that is a thing of beauty and elegance, I'm a handyman but wanna- be Carpenter. Your skill, patience and attention to detail is incredible, and this coming from the brother of a higly skilled cabinet-maker, thanks for sharing it. Regards Dave
+dcollins468 thanks man!
Knifemaking is a whole other rabbit hole to crawl down. I started about 2 years ago and have made about 20 knives. I do use an angle grinder to cut the initial knife blank shape, but a hack saw and time can accomplish exactly the same thing. Most of the rest is done with hand files and sandpaper, but of course there is the heat treatment that must be done using power (although burning lump charcoal is pretty primitive power). The handle scales can be made of wood or home-made micarta using strips of fabric/denim/paper and epoxy or fiberglass resin. I shape them with a rasp, files, and sandpaper after epoxying them to the knife tang. The only other part that might use power is drilling the pin holes in the tang, but I suppose you could use a hand drill for that. Try it out. You'll probably get hooked on that too. 😊
So true. I used to do knife making years ago I had a whole shop with slack belt and build a whole nine yards. Maybe someday I'll get back into it.
I just found your channel and video while researching to build my own Plane. I love your formatt, long or short, and that your son is with you in the shop, and later at the tool conventions.
Thanks. I love having the kids with me in the shop and around it makes it a lot of fun.
You’ve got an awful critic you shouldn’t listen to, his name is James Wright. This is a brilliant video and far from too long, I’d much rather have all the tips and hints you give as I’m sure most would. You are a phenomenal teacher, you’ve taught me more than anyone and I do appreciate it. Please don’t apologise for what you are giving those of us who can't commit to Patreon for free.
I love you passion for teaching others, it’s something special.
Your planes looked absolutely awesome, you did a really good job.
I’ve got a wooden Jack very very cheap that has a repair next to the mouth and I'm thinking of re-soling it, it’s already beech with an ash sole. This has taught me a lot about how to approach the job. Thank you.
Was that the younger Arthur or his brother, I do like how the children are allowed to spend time with you when you are working.
Thanks Mark. This means more then you know. Thanks for the encouragement!
Wow, I was strolling through some woodworking video's and came across your making of a hand plane. You have inspired me. I have bookmarked this video and put it in my projects of things to make. I also like your narrations ( excellent) and your your right its not about the end goal but the processes. I also like the children running around in your workshop. I bet they are going to be craftsman like their Daddy :-)
thanks David. I really love having the kids in the shop.
Thumbs up, James. Some day I will be trying my hand at one of these.
+OG Timbercraft Looking forward to seeing it. I know yours would be SWEET!
Really good video for a beautiful plane James
+The ShavingWood Workshop Thanks! I was kind of hoping you would win, but it would look like trash in your gorgeous tool cabinet.
Way too hard on yourself man, it's a beautiful handcrafted plane. My cabinet is just a cabinet but thanks my friend.
+The ShavingWood Workshop Thanks! that really means a lot. I just want to share my passion for the art.
And you are :-)
Great job, and great video. I have made a basic plane or two, but never something this intricate. I learned a lot about using the chisel more precisely here. Thank you.
+Scott Adams thank you. It was a blast to make, and more fun to use.
+Scott Adams thank you. It was a blast to make, and more fun to use.
Might be the coolest video I have seen. I’m 16 and started my hand tool experience at 15 and am working my way through the Lie Neilsen line and developing a collection. I am hooked and hope to be making this fine of work soon. Keep it up sir
sweet Mike! I would love to see what you make.
I’m going to do my best however I don’t currently have the joinery tools to cut the joinery like you have but in time I may. My build will probably be a little simpler but I hope to achieve a high quality piece from design. I’m going to try and make my own blade like you did. 100% all me not a kit
Thank you for teaching all the necessary steps to end up with a beautiful plane. just awesome.
+Woodsconsin Woodworking Thanks. It is a really fun project!
I think I said it already, but it does deserve it again,... Absolutely excellent...! Beautiful planes...
Cheers...
+Adam Quincey Thanks!
Nice project, I liked how you shaped the body, the colour of purple heart and the carvings you added.
Thank you. This was fun to make and give away.
very fancy .looks great lots of quality time spent in the Man cave I think I will try making a simpler one
Sweet! I would love to see what you make!
That's an awesome contrast between the ash and purple heart. Great work!
thnaks. I do like that combo!
Beautiful work, I love anything built with Purple Heart!
thanks man. you and me both!
Very well done, thank you for the effort and work that goes into making such a video. Great looking tool.
thanks Phillip. that means a lot.
I'm so glad I've found this channel, this video is exactly what I needed, I hope to continue to find great content
thanks James. that means a lot!
Fabulous! Yes, more long versions, please!
That is what a lot of the channel is changing tward.
it will be in the future in my shop. Sooner than later. Awesome build and content.
Beautiful work James. I hope to attempt that some day. One lucky winner right there! Congrats to him. :) Thanks for sharing.
+Mike Kapotsy Every time I try something new I ask myself why I had not tried it before. Looking forward to what you come up with!
.......as before.......you do beautiful work!......and making something useful, even better..........great additional show on the plane builds.
+Rick L Thanks! I do love making things I can work with every day!
you gave me most of the answers i was looking for. great job & thanks
thaks Tony. if you have any other questions feel free to ask anytime.
an inspiring video which I saw on the same day as a plane blade was delivered. I think l now know what to do with it ☺
thanks! I would love to see what you do with it!
+Wood By Wright I hope you are patient, I suspect there will be a lot of false starts and learning going on
Very fun to watch your process! It's inspiring.
+Dan Nisbet Thanks. It is a lot of the same steps just used in different ways.
Good work!
Incredible work.
Well that's a funny coincidence. I have used that same shape for guitar fretboard inlays not to long ago. 15:48
It is quite a sexy shape though so im not surprised we both came up with it. Though, mine had thinner edges, something like 3mm wide.
LOL you got to stick with what you like. that would be cool to see on a guitar!
Wood By Wright
Indeed it was, the customer loved it.
And what would something like that typically cost? Nice work.
Looking at them reminded me of those wooden Dutch shoes. Food for thought.
I actually wear wooden clogs in the shop everyday. Incredibly comfortable and protective. But if I were to sell one of these he would probably be somewhere around $1,000 to 1300.
I can feel the joy. Good video!!!
+Willem Kossen Thanks! that means a lot!
very nice james..and congrats to the winner..one these days ill make one..but first i need to complete the hand tool challenge. after this weekend ill be able to start it..tha ks james!-
+Joe basementwoodworking Really looking forward to what you make!
Wood By Wright thanks.. if I wasn't making these benefit projects and I would have had it done already so I appreciate the extra time
Beautiful work man! I hope to be able to do that one day soon. Very inspiring!
thank you. it is such a fun tool!
Great stuff and great presentation
+montewoods Thank you!
totally cool. It contains a lot more info and interesting stuff than I could imagine with the short version! :) great job
+Cactus! workshop Thanks! I am thinking of doing a second channel with more long form videos for those that like them.
That is so beautiful!
thanks man!
I think the two hand planes look fantastic James. I would really love to make my own out of purple heart but it is difficult to find in the UK and very expensive.
Always looking forward to the next video.
thanks. it is expensive here too. if I remember correctly the small piece I got here was $40.
Nice Video James!
thanks.
I would be cool for a next project for you to make came clamps. Reele cool clamps for holding small thing and easy to make
+Ryan Burr Thanks! I have been wanting to make some for a wile. and they are on my list. Paul sellers is making some on his channel right now.
Just have to advise against using a glass jar for oil tempering. The heat stress could crack the glass and depending on the flashpoint of the oil, cause a serious fire. I store my oil in an empty 1 gal metal paint can that never had paint in it ( most paint stores will sell you one) and I quench in the same vessel.
ya if I were doing more than the one dip I would put it in something else. I now use a resealable can for it.
Great job.
+Eric Rusch Sr Thanks! it was a joy to make!
4:34 I have a couple questions at this point in the build. Are the wood sections relevant for a specific reason? Appearances? Durability, grain stability, splinteryness v denseness while working? (Is that a term? I had a random hardwood chunk put off so many splinters while I was trying to work with it that I finally tossed it into the waste bin. It was from woodcraft and not a random pallet or anything. I have no idea what it was, but I know if I see it again it looks like Mahogany.)
Also, at this point do you have to cut your wood and let it rest at all to release any internal stress? When working with larger blocks is there any consideration to the orientation of the grain when it comes to long-term stability?
so I guess three major
It is just for looks.
If the grain is strait then there in not much need to let it rest. It is actually better to do the joinery in one day so that it does not move due to moisture changes.
Beautifull job 👏👏👏
thanks man!
Inspiring work. Great video.
+GuysWoodshop Thank you I love using it now. would love to see you build one!
Wow, I'm glad I found this channel. Subbed.
+MaghoxFr yhanks. If there is anything I can help you with let me know.
beautiful!
Thanks!
Once again, Fantastic. Someone probably suggested this but here goes..., To get the cross grooves, could you use the rabbet plane all the way across then when making the hole for the blade just make sure it isn't where the cross cuts are?
you could. the traditional method would be sliding dovetails across the plane.
thank you
this is a long one, it's on my "watch later" list for tonight on my "lunch" break
+Paul Meyette Sounds like an interesting way to spend a lunch break. I like to keep most videos between 5 and 10 minutes but I have a lot of people ask for 30-60 minute videos. I have thought of creating an other channel for long form videos. and just keep these shorter. but we will see.
It's how I spend my lunch break. I work nights and free wifi..... so I RUclips every night
+Paul Meyette Sounds like a great lunch break to me!
wow~ awesome!
thanks Donny!
Are your planes anodized? If so, how did you keep the sides and sole protected while the plane was in the anodizing bath?
+EoRaptor nope just spray paint. I have several videos on restoration If you want to see what I do
Wood you think handsawing and handplaning still produces enough dust to wear a respirator mask?
Nope. They don't produce much at all. And what the saw does create falls rather then getting blown up into the air. There's a reason that only a saw creates a sawdust and a hand tool shop. Every other tool creates chips or curls. But in a power tool shop every tool creates sawdust.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for advice. I have asthma and a little kid, so I'm doing due diligence to make sure we are all safe with me woodworking.
super nice pieces! i need to make a bunch of tools and this was inspiring... probably further in the future than I want but that's ok... :---)
thanks man! looking forward to seeing what you make.
I'm not trying to imply anything with this question but: do you still use that plane up to this day? I've seen a lot of people make planes and I'm under the impression that a lot of them make them and leave them for display, never using them again. Love the plane by the way.
I used it for about a year then gave it away as a prize when i hit 100K subs. but yes I did use it quite a few times. it was not as easy to adjust as modern planes, but it felt so good in the hand.
Piękna robota..pozdrawiam.
Dziękuję Ci. były dużo zabawy, aby!
Hi James, Big fan. I have a question about a chip breaker in addition to the wedge. I've seen the kits from Hock tools, and they have a chip breaker with the blade. Any recommendations on including a chip breaker? I also have some 2"x3/16" O1 precision ground bar stock, and is it as simple as cutting an extra bar and attaching it with a screw after threading it? Thank you for all you do! You're converting me from a power tool user into a hand tool user.
yes. If you can add a chip breaker it makes smoothing difficult wood much easier. I did not put one on here would have taken more then making the rest of the plane. but if I just bought the blade and chip breaker together it would be a lot easier.
@@WoodByWright Thank you for your reply. I really appreciate it.
awesome work my friend! I think you said the bow saw you were working with had a blade with 2 tpi... where did you find that?
+Jason Zvokel I bought that Bow saw from a Craig's list ad. I have not seen where to get them. But if I ever needed another one I would probably file it myself.
are there some some ticks to excavate the mortise usinga chisel and a mallet only? I'm trying on some scrap pine but it doesn't seems suoper accurate...not the level required to an hand plane....
are you talking about keeping the bed for the iron to rest on flat?
Wood By Wright Yes I'm trying to excavate the bed and "breast" only by chisel. And its not so simple
yup that is difficult. that is why the traditional method is with file or float. the easiest way is to cut another block of wood at that correct angle then clamp it to the top of the body. you can use that to rest the chisel on and slide the chisel down the bed ar that angle.
Wood By Wright Many t hanks!!! I 'm sawing Wood in order to make the jig you talked about. There is always the " chisel bevel effect" : the tendency of our chisel to stick in Wood following his bevel inclunation..probably a narrower grinding angle will help a bit
Fantastic
thanks!
Where did you come up with this design? I really like the idea of making a wooden plane with 2 different woods like this. I would like to try my hand at making a smoother with paper birch on the top and lignum vitae on the bottom.
+Chris McPadden sounds like a nice look I would love to see you make it. I took the idea from a bunch of traditional planes and mixed in my own flair.
Right on. I kinda figured such would be the answer. I like the look you came up with so i may make a similar one. (copying is a form of flattery). I'll send you a pic if i like it, and if i like it i will probably make a series of planes like a jack, jointer, etc. I enjoy your videos, keep up the great content. And also i will be attending the midwest tool collectors swap meet in minnesota in October. Not sure if you travel all over to go to these but this will be the first time going for me so i am really excited for it.
I apologize for this verbose post but there is a serious question at the end... I greatly appreciate your 'only by hand ethic'! Years ago, I used to do design/production in a well appointed shop by day, and work in a hybrid Lightship/Shaker basket style at night, completely by hand, starting with a brown ash log. My baskets, and some tables adapted to the style hit the same wall that your plane has; 60 to 80 hours of work per piece put them out of range for most people. I've begun collecting and restoring hand tools and am in the process of beginning a purely functional shave horse. I've also decided that I need a very small (no bigger than 2' x 3-4' x 24"), heavy bench (kneeling or stool bench), possibly made from 20+ year old 5" cherry. Do you have any thoughts to offer on features and feasibility? Whew, Thanks!
Sounds beefy. so are you talking about a chair height bench for sawing or a full work bench?
Long story short... I've been replacing handles on a wide range of edge tools, and am currently working on my couch and on a 3' x4' x 18" coffee table that I'd like back as a coffee table.
I've mostly been whittling and scraping with a little chisel work, and I find that I like subtractive work and restoration. With a low table I can sit or kneel and work, or simply lay the piece and decide what's next. The wood and tool version of someone knitting.
I have an opportunity to consign pieces, and I think a bench along the lines of my coffee table would speed my work.
I have the cherry which would be beefy (and perhaps better used), or I could laminate 3/4-plywood and sandbag. Dogs and holdfasts enough? How effective would a vice be?
My ultimate goal is to make pin money. I have the opportunity to buy back the very same Conover lathe that I was compelled to sell 25 years ago. A shave-horse, bowl-mule, small table, lathe, would keep me smiling!
well in general, you have to be able to hold work vertical, Falt and on edge. normally a tail vice will allow you to hold something flat and on edge and then in the vice vertically. dogs and hold fast work great for face and some edge work but will not hold a board vertical. so that is one of the reasons why I am constantly using a vice.
Yup, I was just looking for another voice to say that. I'd already thought about extended jaws on a removable old Record vise for short vertical work. Smaller scale standard vises, yeah.
After watching you and Bearcat, I think I'll save the cherry (old T. Moser scrap stock), it's what I used for personal and production basket molds.
Thank you, you've been very helpful, AND vastly enjoyable to watch, I do enjoy work by hand.
any time. glad I could help.
I've become interested in tool making lately... so my question is this : if you were to make a jointing plane, would you make it the same way? what would you do differently? would the length of the plane affect how you make it?
it would be the same way but longer and with a tote behind the iron. It is on my list to soon make a full set of planes for my shop but that might be down the list a wase.
Does a wooden plane need a chip breaker?
No plane needs a chip breaker, but they are useful in many cases. It is generally 50/50 finding them on old wooden planes.
Depends what you are planing, the bed angle and rigidity of the blade all else being equal.
Just a thought from a newbie... Wouldnt it have been easier to use vertical dowels to achieve the same thing as the grid between the two pieces of wood.?
+LimitedGunnerGM you could, but it would not look as cool. But it would be a lot easer.
Wood By Wright definitely agree with the looks. I also think a 14" brass plate on bottom would look great and be more durable.
Stopt-cut, work to the line. That is easy! When are you going to challenge yourself 😜
Just kidding. They look very cool, shame I didn't win. But with the content I'm still a winner, lol.
Question: why did you reset the grooving plane for the two outer grooves in the purple heart, and not flip the wood around? Was it because of grain direction or to get the spacing correct?
Also, did you use shavings for the packaging?
And lastly, any tips on the placement of the hole for the brass rod in the plane body?
Thanks for your time and have a great day.
+Nearoth the plane body was not perfectly square and true because it would be shaped. and even if it was it is still best to reference off the same side to keep the grooves parallel.
I Did pack it with some shavings. that was a must!
the only important thing with the pin is to keep it parallel with the iron and the sole I like mine to be about 1/4" away from the iron but that is determined by the wedge. and it is easier to adjust the wedge then the position of the pin.
you always ask the best questions! thanks. I wish more people asked questions like this!
+Wood By Wright thanks ☺. I guess most either know the answers or watch it for the content? But yeah referencing from one side is usually the best, I guess I'm used to the power tool guys who have everything so dialed in that flipping it is more acurate.
Do you have a problem with blow-out when drilling the hole for the pin? Since you can't drill from inside the body. Or would you drill the hole before you remove the inside?
Starting a new job soon, hope it will help fund finishing the workshop, lol. Daddy needs to make a plane.
+Nearoth I just put a block of wood behind it so it would not blow out. and I did it before shareing the body.
+Wood By Wright ah ok. Thanks 😊
James, noticed that you did a brass pin with the wood wedge. Have you ever made one with the wedges are built on the sides (I dunno what the woodworking term is...)? Do you know the difference or is it just builders style? I'm planning to make a few myself and was curious.
+Frank Rodrigues I have not done one that way (traditional wedge) but some day I will they require a thicker side wall about are nice as the body is more open.
how did you plane that purple heart so easily? I love the look of the wood but most of the time when I plane it it's a whole lot of tear out. do I just need to work on sharpening more?
here is a video on setting it up for smoothing. a well-set plane won't tear out. even on the toughest wood. ruclips.net/video/vG-DULSw6Zk/видео.html
Had to watch this one again because I'm thinking about giving it a try myself, you didn't include the part where you flattened the bottom, and it's a smoothing plane but you didn't take any full width shavings ? :-P Still a nice video.
+Silent- Hill You are so right. I should have done that shot. Still love that plane.
Thanks for the great video. I am trying to find a source of the O1 tool steel but not having much luck. Can you recommend a source for that? Keep up the great work that you do. :-D
+Derrick Kerr I normally order mine through McMaster or Amazon here www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461409240&sr=8-1&keywords=o1+tool+steel
just chose what sizes you want. both also offer A2 steel very slimier but is hardened in water.
So if you decide to do production then you'd make something like router jigs for all the dados and rabbets. Then you'd have to clean up the corners but you can make a jig to guide your chisels. You'd reduce the time from 8 hours per to 45 minutes per.
the problem is they would not be hand tool made. besides I do not want to turn my passion into a product. I just want to share the joy of hand tools.
Absolutely. I know several people who turned their beloved hobby into a business and they say it ruined it for them. That's why I said you have to decide if it's worth it.
I'm not trying to talk you into doing it. I was just saying you could if you wanted to and make money at it. But yeah, you'd pretty much have to use machines.
But there are people out there who get premium prices for hand-made items. So you *could* use hand tools but chances of success there are very low and you'd have become a "name" that people associate with the best of the best.
I see custom knives being sold for thousands of dollars. We all know they aren't thousands-of-dollars better knives. It's getting something no one else has and the person who made it.
An easy way to deal with the angles when chiseling is to just cut a correctly angled block and glue it on the top of the plane as a guide. If you put a piece of paper between the joint, you can just break the block off with a hammer and clean up the glue when you are done, or you could saw it off. You do need a long chisel. Stubby Japanese ones won't work for this.
that does work but I prefer freehand it teaches the skills rather than relying on a jig. but to each their own. that is what makes the sport so much fun!
Using a jig is a skill. It is simply a smart way to accomplish a task. Leaving less to chance. Is that a jig on your plane (the fence you used to fashion your elaborate sole)? I think it is.
Sorry I worded that wrong. it is not that I do not like jigs I just try not to use them if I can learn the skill with out. I have cut groove without a fence or planed boards without a plane body (just using a chisel) there is definitely a time an place for jigs and I use them often when they save time. but that is what makes the sport fun what saves time for you or what you find fun is vastly different from me. we each have to find the way that suits the way we work.
also i meant to ask.. how did you make your branding iron?
+The WoodWorking Junkie Here is the video on it. the video is old but it gives the general idea. all told cost me about $15 ruclips.net/video/7C9xaWDzsbI/видео.html
+Wood By Wright oh awesome thanks
great video! as far as the iron,.use a file for initial bevel shaping! will save you a ton of time
How about a grinder? I have a 12" one here with an aggressive grit.
@@1pcfred that would work but i was suggesting a file because i think james's channel is mostly power tool free
@@shonuffisthemaster free power tools? That's great! I get power tools for free or next to it. They're cheaper and more plentiful than hand tools. I built my 12" grinder myself so it didn't cost me anything. I made it out of all scrap metal I had lying around. The arbor was something I found in my grandfather's cellar too. It was an old flat belt drive that I converted over to V belt drive.
If it helps, you could make 10 minute episodes in multiple parts. part 1, part 2, part 3,etc.
That way you do not over work your computer and we still get all the content you wanted to enclude.
I meant to say 10 minutes +/-.
+Randy Owens yup. I now have the better computer and can ocasonaly put out longer format videos like that.
Bravo
+Sam K Thanks!
What kind of bit brace (drill) is that?
I do not know. it is a cheap one from the 50s but it works great. I have a pile of them that I get all the time for $1 or less. great gifts to new woodworkers.
Use oil when cutting steel with a hacksaw. You'll cut through it a lot faster.
thanks for the tip.
My bandsaw likes to run dry. The swarf falls out of the teeth easier. I don't have a pan on it where I can run real flood cooling.
What saw is that you are using? Looks like a Veritas. Just wondering what cut and TPI it is.
Are you talking about the tenon saw at 3:48?
Wood By Wright Yes! I'm looking at buying one but unsure if I should go rip cut or cross cut. I'm having to slowly build my tools up
well, a tenon saw is always a rip cut it is designed to make deep cuts with the grain like the cheeks of a tenon. but of all the backsaws the Carcass saw is the one I use the most. not as deep as the tenon saw, and I do far more cross-cutting then I do fine ripping. most ripping I reach for my panel saws.
Wood By Wright I can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to read and answer my question. Keep putting out these great videos your projects and techniques have been such an inspiration for my projects! I have learned so much from you.
My pleasure. thanks for the great question!
Hello there! Curious as to where you got the stock o2 tool steel? and what dimensions? thanks!! I think I'd like to try and make a plane myself!
+Charlie Kain I get it on Amazon or McMaster some times of each Is cheaper then the other. For this I used 1.5" x .25" bar stock and cut it to 6"
You can find anything off of ebay too. And a simple google search may find you something if you are lucky.
You said it took you about 40 hours. How much time would it shave off using power tools where you can and buying an O1 tool steel blade?
I could save some time, but to save. A bunch with power tool the design would have to change as there are several steps that could not be done with power tools.
Wood By Wright, which steps? It’s a beautiful plane, BTW.
You can't make tapered plunges like the main mouth or squair cavities for the sole connection.
That is the reason most planes made with power tools cut the sides off first, then cut out the moth from the center block. You can't cut the mouth with power tools without doing that.
even more info! thanks man. on the list... and didnt i tell you to stop huffing that stuff!
+The WoodWorking Junkie But that keeps it all real! I love the smoke! LOL
since i didn't win, now i gotta give it shot right? now to try and get some shop time
+Cody Lawinger That is almost always the problem!
I have never been able to produce anything with my Stanley 45 except a whole lot of swearing. I've found it impossible to find a happy place between cutting too deeply and diving into the piece or not cutting anything at all. It looks like you were successful but still, it didn't look like a really smooth process. What would be a good alternative?
+wickedmessenger1 a 45 will never be as smooth as a dedicated molding plane because of a state rather then a full sole. But if it is sharp it will do the job nicely. Adjusting depth can be tricky and takes some fiddling. What cutters are you having problems with?
BELLA
thanks you!
i really liked this video and your ideology about enjoying the work as much as the project. i really like the mating of the sole and body on your planes. i am a hybrid woodworker but im starting to slide more and more into hand work because its fun! i recently made a lamination method wooden plane as an experiment and i was astounded. it was pretty easy and it works as well as an expensive veritas it shares a shelf with now. i made it from an iron and breaker i had and an oak short! i thought i might fail on the build or it would be black magic to adjust or that it wouldnt perform. wrong wrong wrong. i almost wonder if i speak about this if lee valley and lie nielson will put a hit on me. i have ordered another iron! next! i have to say im still hybrid, between watching you cut your own blade!!!!!!!!! and fidgen mill a cord of walnut by hand i still find some reasons to roll out a cord! im afraid the whale oil lanterns might burn down my shop! but i liked this and subscribed and look forward to catching up with all youve done and have coming. thanks for sharing.
+R C thank you that means a lot. It still surprises me when a hand tool I made works as expected. It is just so much fun.
how do you like those chisels?
The set from Aldi is my go to chisel. they are not as god as most of the higher quality but for the price they can not be beaten. Part of the channel is showing how you can get into woodworking for almost nothing so I use tools I have restored or the cheaper versions.
They look like Nerex but couldn't quite make them out. Always wanted to try them out. That is why I ask
The Nerex chisels are great chisels. they will hold an edge nicely.
Woodcrafts really are ok at best. Steel is ok but after using my Japanese chisels my expectations are probably too high!
ya Japanese chisels are hard, but if not used properly they often chip.
@3:36 you have a gremlin under your bench.
yup! the fun of being a stay at home dad. I have three of them that like to work with me in the shop.
Wood By Wright Yea, mine like to "help" too. They help and I have more stuff to do :D
That sounds familiar!
I missed seeing your shop assistant in this video !
LOL he was in storage then.
BRO HAS HAIR
Would you be mad if I named by lumber business Wood Buy Right?
Lol I like it.
your helpers were well behaved
+bill carroll thanks. I love having them in the shop with me.
AHHH, that’s just a Plane tool
+David Williams lol thanks.
give me a hand plane please...
lol sorry I gave both away!
You have a serious invasion problem of homey elves...
LOL the best kind!
What exactly is the benefit of the elaborate joinery on the sole? Are you afraid that an ordinary glue joint will just fall off as you plane? Dude, you have way too much unstructured free time.
LOL it is just for the look. back when glues were less relable this was often done as they did come free with just a flat joint. but now they are sometimes done this way for tradition sake and the fun of it.
Title: "Smoothing Plane"
Test: *joints a board*
The best way to test it!
Who has time to make a fancy wooden plane? Buy the damn thing and get back to work!
Lol it is not for use. It is for the fun of the journey. Half of the things I make are iseless other then they are fun to make.
The last I made from wood were exotic wood coffee table boxes which sold for $700 (sounds like a lot but the gallery took 50%). Before that cabinetmaking. Before that finish carpentry. Before that I had time to make my own tools! Of course you're right in building something just for the joy of it. I'm just old and cranky.
@@jthepickle7 there is a reason I don't sell anything I make. I want to keep the fun without the biz. The last pece of furniture I sold was a small dresser for $12,000. It was not as much fun as then next one that I made for myself.
12k ! Wow, great clientele! I'll bet the quality between the sold and the kept was exactly the same.
Hand tools? Are you serious? No wonder it takes you too long. A CNC machining center would spit one of these out in minutes. Get with the times already!
LOL you have no idea how slow a hand crank CNC is.
@@WoodByWright you're right. I had my electronics going as I built my CNC machine. That kept the hand cranking down to a minimum. Wiring machines up last is a common rookie mistake.