Since you changed the fluid in 2018, have you had any issues or complaints with switching to the AMSOIL Transmission Fluid? Been thinking about going to amsoil instead of the dealer fluid for my ford, and i see positive reviews, im still leary.
You 100% CAN remove this pan without doing anything special at all. I just did it on my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3l. Lay on your back with your head towards the front of the car, twist the pan slightly to the right (drivers side), and it will slide out. Took me about 2 minutes. That said, I love your videos and really appreciate the level of detail you include.
Pan Removal Trick: I have 2018 Tahoe 6L80 trans. and the pan will come right out! Not sure if your ride will have it (i know most do), but I removed the heat shield on passenger side of pan (2 bolts). Then I was able to slide the pan over to passenger side about 3 inches, then twisted the front of the pan towards the driver side and it came right out! Removing the little heat shield gives you lots more room. If you look at the back of the pan (shallow end), there is a little raised area on the bottom about 3 inches from the passenger side, that spot is the point that will allow you to move passed the exhaust y pipe (cross over pipe). Hope this helps!! 👍
Recently bought a 2016 Silverado; have been religiously watching your videos to learn everything about these trucks! Thanks for all the details and tips! One thing to note, I wouldn’t clean gaskets with brake cleaner. It reallllly dries out the rubber. Or at the very least, if you do have to clean it with brake clean, coat it with oil to rehydrate the rubber. Alot of us will also put a thin layer/bead of silicon on the gasket. Overall, awesome videos!
Just changed my transmission fluid (not a full flush just Change) and now going to change front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid. Thanks for the tutorials, they’re genuinely the best on RUclips and have helped a ton!
Appreciate the video it helped immensely! super easy change once I jacked up the transmission. One thing I will note I have a 2016 5.3L Sierra and the cooler lines attached to the transmission didn't have a quick connect. I instead found the return line on the transmission cooler in the engine bay and disconnected it there with same process, surprisingly easy to get to with loads of room around it. I just inserted the drain tube into the transmission cooler and it was a snug fit. If anyone runs into the same problem it is the lower line on the transmission cooler on the driver side. Your method was great because it replaces more fluid than other videos I've seen who just drop the pan. Noticed a significant improvement in shifting too!
well damn... that makes some good sense. wonder if a heat shield can be placed on the pan where the exhaust runs under. Wonder if it will drop the temp by a couple of degrees?
Yea that added on top of the bypass, of course it’s gonna run hotter. Of course the wind will help with some of that but still. Don’t know what gm was thinking there
I just swapped my trans. fluid and filter in my 2018 sierra 1500 base. Installed the transgo therm. delete kit as well. For those out there that have yet to do this let me tell you - follow every step these guys displayed. Pan won’t come out with just the strap around the 4”x4”‘s. Gotta use the third jack to to push the housing up to. “Couple hour job” - my ass. These guys make the best how to gm truck vids. Thanks a bunch, keep’em coming.
I did the same service on my truck, if I may suggest....there are (3) 15mm bolts on the exhaust flange on the passenger side, the studs there are long. Just loosen those nuts and you will be able, by hand, to lower the exhaust cross member enough so that the pan can be removed. No other gymnastics under the vehicle needed. I then anti seized the exhaust bolts. I did have to use a Dewalt impact to get those 15mm bolts loose.
Did you need to remove the oxygen senor to get to those three bolts by the passenger side? or Remove the wheel and side well to access those three bolts? I have the 2011 with 18 bolts pan and see there is no room from the bottom but it seems to have room from the side.
A couple tips I learned on my older gmc, it was parked for years before I got it and I'm working through the issues as they come up. The transmission fluid change didn't go as usual, I've done this more than a few times. Here's my tips.. Use a sealed bucket with a pouring spout, any hose small enough to fit down the dipstick and a shop vac to make a fluid vacuum pump. It'll get most of the fluid in the pan. Just drill a hole big enough to have to from the hose through, shove it all the way down and stick the shop vac down the pour spout. My small craftsman fit perfect. It'll help to be air tight. I would be cautious running the pump that low... I'd think it would be safe to do several fluid changes. Also drain plugs are cheap so just install one if you're that far in, be careful of placement and get the hallow bolt good and tight. I had to replace that garbage rubber gasket that came in my kit. The old hard gasket was done as well. Go with a hard gasket if you replace it or you'll see why putting a drain plug on when you have the pan off is a smart move. I'd also entertain a second cooler in series and synthetic fluid. It'll creep out though if things aren't just right. Worst case, they make a special rtv for synthetic transmission fluid, worked pretty good on drain plug threads. I hope this helps someone.
My truck has 78,000 miles, do you think it would be wise to change the filter. I have a small pump I use to change the oil in my I/O boat engine and could suck the fluid from the transmission with this.
My first project on this truck I wasn’t cussing and frustrated thanks to this video! At 160k I did have some sludge, but no metal shavings on the pan magnet thankfully. The transmission pump was barely moving the old fluid out, but by the end it had fresh fluid flowing perfectly. Thank you!
Just got done. What a pita! No jack but there’s room. Came up 1 qt short. Used 14.5 so I pumped as I filled. Pumped out of the lower radiator fitting. 1 year old it was a little dirty. Big pull with a trailer last month from Philly to Yellowstone. Just dark. Magnet, not bad. Thanks for the viddy.
Great choice on the fluid. the Amsoil ATF (Red Label) was the first product of theirs I ever used back in 06 became a dealer in 07 and have not looked back. I put it in an 02 Cavalier doing the flush procedure where I took the line out of the radiator after dropping the pan and cleaning the magnet this was when the car had around 60,000 miles. Well in 2016 I thought it was time to do it again had another 70,000 miles on it at that point and I was shocked at how clean the transmission pan was and the fluid was still red! Now at that point I changed to the blue label fluid you use because GM recommend Dexron 6 in place of Dexron 3 now. I also added a auxiliary cooler and a magnefine inline magnetic filter. Just changed that magnefine filter and opened it up a few months ago after 34000 miles and 4 years or so and the filter had almost nothing visible in it and the magnet had some fuzz on it.
If you get a replacement pan (inexpensive) and weld an O2 bung with a plug with a copper washer, it makes it easy to drain. I do a drain and fill every second oil change which gets about half of it.
So I attempted this on my 2017 Chevy Tahoe. All the steps will work except where you get the transmission fluid from. There are no C-clip connectors coming off the transmission. You will need to drop the splash guard to access the trans-cooler lines. I had a hard time tracing mines and made the mistake of disconnecting oil lines running into my radiator (not fun). So I bailed on the flush and opted for a pan-drop where I just changed the fluid in the pan. The ratchet strap, wood and bottle jack combo worked like a charm at getting the exhaust down, along with jacking up the transmission. I was able to successfully get the pan out and refill with 6 quarts. Transmission is shifting better. I would have like to get another 4 quarts or so out of the transmission but I’m a neophyte and DIY car maintenance and didn’t want to take the change of screwing things up by guessing. Hopefully someone does a video/write up on the 2015 - 2018 GM trucks.
Just did my first fluid/filter change on my 2015 Sierra tonight. On my truck there is a plate with a 10mm bolt holding the 2 cooler lines in instead of the spring clips. I took pics of you want to see the difference. Just let me know.
I went through the same thing on my 2018 but was able to do it with just jacking the trans up. I probably would have saved some money on the cuss jar by pulling the exhaust down. Good video, thank you for posting it.
After you've changed the filter 4 or 5 times , I just welded a drain bung to the low spot om my trans. pan ...drain as much as you can , then refill a gallon and run through the gears and in idle for a few minutes , then drain it again.....I just buy the cheap Valvoline ...change the motor oil and trans fluid at the same time ...works good and real easy ...! This way you get all of the converter oil replaced ...
Thank you for the video and those mentioned remove exhaust bolts. I just finished changing my 2011 5.3 by removed exhaust bolts first. The driver side is more accessible than the passenger side but i end up need to remove both wheel wall to access all six bolts. Penetrate Liquid sprayed the night before. It was to my surprise for the ease of removing passenger side but the driver side got me worried for a while. The 24" wrench bent and the bolt does not budge. I sprayed more and use hammer to knock around manifold housing. It took some effort to remove driver side with extra 36" pipe. When pipe dropped, there was plenty of room to remove trans pan. It does seems to be enough room without dropping the pipe but I just couldn't risk it. I applied plenty of anti-seize on all six bolts for help future removal. Thought about spending close to 300 for that B&M with drain bolt but by loosing bolts slowly to let oil drip slowly didn't even have any on the floor. I may still buy that B&M for change oil only. Thanks again.
I did the same, loosening the exhaust pipe flange (3x 15mm) on the passenger side, allowed the cross member pipe to drop. Also, if you have an extractor, the dipstick is a nice access to extract practically all the fluid from the pan.
Thumbs up on the video.. its great...thanks a lot for the technical info.... this is the problem in Silverado the exhaust pipe is obstructing the removal of the transmission oil pan...
When I did my 09 Sierra denali, I broke exhaust manifold bolts because of pulling down on the exhaust. I now have 1 7/8 SS long tube headers with stainless steel ARP header studs. Worth every penny since the headers have a removable pipe section under the transmission
I also added an external spin-on Napa Gold hydraulic filter (10 micron) in line with the trans cooler lines on both my 2001 and 2011 Suburbans. My Allison 1000 inspired me to do this with its spin-on, much easier than dropping the pan to replace the filter.
@@rayss3323 both those vehicles are gone now, unfortunately. I had those kits on for about 2 years, so maybe 15k miles or so, but I would change the filters once a year.
I drilled a small hole in my transmission pan, and then another on the side. Being VERY careful not to go far in at all. Then, you open your transmission dip-stick to allow air in. The fluid will drain out easily. Then, I bought an aftermarket transmission pan that had a plug in it to the next time I swap fluid, it would be super easy.
If you take a 2x4 and put it across both cross members then put a ratchet strap over the exhaist pupe you can lower it enough to have the pan clear without unbolting the xmission. You can accomplish this because of the flex pipe on the stock exhaust. If you have an aftermarket exhaust without a flex pipe then tou will have to unbolt the xmission. Just an experience of mine.
For those of you attempting this, there is another video on RUclips that shows that you don't actually need to REMOVE the pan to change the filter and fluid, or even clean the pan for that matter. There is enough room to simply move the pan out of the way to change the filter, and get rags in there to wipe everything down and clean the magnet, as well as replace the gasket. The majority of the (wasted) labor here and in the comments is spent trying to remove the pan entirely, which isn't really needed when all you're trying to do is replace the filter and wipe the gunk out. Please save yourself the headache of trying move your exhaust around and create more work.
Thanks for the outstanding video sundae. The tips you shared are universal and valuable. Disregard those trolls and hecklers that not pick on you should have done it this way or that way. They can make their own video as they know so much. You're views and thumbs up tell the story
If you tow boats and trailers semi heavy, I’ve killed several of these transmissions. Seem to be good for 80 to 100 thousand miles. It doesn’t seem to matter if you change the fluid or not. One I did 88000 failed the next one I didn’t change went 100000. Great presentation👍🏼
I know this comment is older but did you run the factory setup during that time? GM has released a TSB related to the thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat essentially) and its clear they've concluded that these transmissions are being run too hot (190+) with the factory setup. The updates thermal bypass lowers the opening temp by roughly 40 degrees.
@@GrandPrix46well that sounds good but, on Suburban and Yukon XL there are no 3/4 tons. They say they can tow a set amount of weight, ought to be able to do it.
@slalomking the 3/4 ton Suburbans have either a 6.0/4L80E or an 8.1/Allison 1000, along with a leaf spring full floating 14 bolt rear. I'd tow "semi heavy" with those, but not "heavy heavy" because you're still limited by a lack of gooseneck/5th wheel hitch, and SRW only. Edit: They have 4L85E's behind the 8.1's in the Suburban/Avalanche/Yukon XL 2500's, not Allisons. But the 4L85's are pretty damn strong, too.
If you happen to replace the cooler lines at the same time as a transmission oil change you’re able to unbolt the pan and slide it forward without doing anything else. Fits perfectly under the exhaust till you’ve slid forward and out
Better to half torque the bolts, then go to full torque. Great you are using Amsoil ATF. It is outstanding fluid. I've been using it since around 1980.
Great video. On my 2015 Chevy Suburban, that top line is actually the sending line and the bottom line is the return line. I verified this by removing the thermostat and putting in a 1/2 in outside diameter and 3/8 inside diameter clear tubing into the top port of the transmission itself. Nothing came out of the bottom port. So I was trying to think how you were able to get transmission fluid out of that line. The only thing I can think of is that the thermostat was open, which allowed fluid to go into the return portion of the thermostat. From there, I believe part of the fluid went back into the transmission and back into the return line where it got pushed all the way back into the sending line which resulted in fluid coming out. I could be wrong, but that makes the most sense.
Thank You. Great video, and very well organized with lots of information. I need to do this on my Chevy soon.. Not really looking forward to this job...
folliwed the vid and worked well thx. only thing i did diff was pump out the fluid thru the dipstick before dropping the pan so less messy. used a liquid vac for $50 on amazon
Thanks, followed your steps except I used to pry bar with a floor jack to Crank dat pipe down a little bit I pumped out like four gallons doing like one gallon at a time 18 quarts of full synthetic Castrol in there and I tapped a drain plug into the pan. I have a 2015 Tahoe LTZ
Very important to get the snap rings on correctly when you drop the pan take the thermostat off and put the snap rings on when you're out from under the vehicle much easier and you won't fuck up the snap ring and have the line pop off a week later squirting a gallon and a half of brand new trans fluid on the ground lesson learned
I have a 2017 6l80 for a Yukon 5.3 and found out the hard was the top line coming out of the transmission is the high pressure line! I thought they would be the same as this one but found out the hard way it was the opposite. Worked great otherwise.
Just bought a '14 Silverado LTX with 67k miles that is in incredible condition. I wasn't aware of the chevy shake or shudder problems prior to purchasing. Test drive was short, and I don't think I got it above 70 on the highway. Noticed a little shudder/shake but assumed it was the road. Like pretty much everyone I have the shake at approximately 74-80, but it seems to go away or at least improve a lot at times. Decided to do this flush and filter changed with AmSoil, bought 13 qts. Luckily there's a dealer 15 minutes from my house. Following this video everything went great, actually thinking I'd be done in 2-3 hours, until I had to put the little c-clip back in. I tried every way possible, but it just wouldn't go in, until finally it sprung off and went flying, probably lost forever. Bought a new pack of clips and kept trying, but it just wouldn't go. Took the bottom one off and tried it on the top and snapped right in!!! WTF!! Used the new one on the bottom and clipped right in. That little clip must have taken 4-5 hours. Took it for a quick spin on the interstate and the shudder is greatly improved and may even be fixed. The shakes seem to be less but I'm going to have to get the 2-piece drive shaft from Performance Driveline to hopefully fix it. Thanks for the videos! So helpful and quite entertaining.
@@TheSundaeDrive Yea I’m going to do a full service at 100k. I’ve heard you don’t want to let it get too bad and then just add all brand new fluid. Idk if that’s a myth or not.
@@TheSundaeDrive But babying and making sure to always use the best products didn’t help. Had the infamous lifter fail at 70K. Man I was pissed lol. I learned it’s been a real problem with the new LT engines.
Get a pry bar on the exhaust that goes across the pan and pry it with your shoulder while you take the pan out and boom. It only takes 6 qts of transmission fluid when you do a fluid and filter change
Question? When you did this did the trans oil come out from the cooler heading towards the back of the truck or did the trans oil come out of the line heading towards the front of the truck?
ik this is an older video but if you use a big enough pry bar you can grab the exhaust and pry on the transmission crossmember and wiggle the pan out. this will most likely require two people but better than jacking the trans and unbolting ur exhaust especially if you live in the rust belt.
How did you prevent the gasket from moving during reinstallation? I have heard of a trick where you run either a Small ZipTie or even a sandwich bag tie. At some of the major areas like corners and center of each sides. Install loosely tight enough to hold in place but loose enough that you can grab one end and pull through.......(to the outside of the pan) after the adjacent fastener bolts get snug. Remove the ZipTie remember keep the bucks part of the tie on the putt of the pan. Pull ZipTie and the gasket should stay in place. Depending on how many pan bolts there are you could do like every other one and as the adjacent bolts get secured the ZipTie gets cut and pulls through to the outside of the pan. I would think safety wire, butchers twine or any type of moderately heavy duty string.......(Not Sewing Thread) would serve about the same purpose.. Basically you are using the string to help keep the form and shape of the gasket. Also what is the current guidelines for Gasket vs Sealant. In the old days with cork gaskets it was sealant on the pan, gasket then another layer of RTV on the transmission housing side , tighten as normal and allow about 30-60 minutes to cure. Modern day gaskets are rubber or silicone and it comes down to. A choice of Gasket OR RTV....NOT both!! I learned the hard way about using both...fortunately warranty covered it but good lesson learned!
The zip tie sounds like a good method. The screw holes in the gasket is tight enough that you can actually stick some of the screws through and they will stay in place and simultaneously hold the gasket. If I'm remembering correctly there might be a couple tabs that hold it in place as well
I’ve used fishing line and tied knots at a few bolt holes. Once in place, it is easy to remove the line and finish the install. It holds well but still gives you some wiggle room to get the pan in place
I have done many of them you can get them out without jacking the trans up or pulling the exhaust down and I put drain plugs in them before I put them back on
Great video! What interval do you suggest replacing transmission fluid? I think the manual says a 100k, kind of seems long. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
In regards to the 6.2L not having a dipstick, my 2015 ESV has a dipstick for some reason. Thank you for the video though, I will be attempting this in the spring.
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm not sure either. The manual does not mention the dipstick and the 2015.5 and up with the 8 and 10 speed does not come with the dipstick. But I was quite shocked (and ecstatic) when I was changing the engine oil and saw the trans dipstick.
@@TheSundaeDrive Just the stupid but inevitable trend of killing the shade-tree diy'er. Right up there with "maintenance subscription plans". Movies, Music, Video games, software and now cars. Everything is a continual pay service. We don't even own 100% of our cars. Just the "car" but not all the workings of it. It's bullshit. lol
Hello , I just saw how you do your gearbox oil level. It's fine with the engine running and the gearbox warm. The engine is stopped and the gearbox oil is hot. Not easy for me, it's the first time I've done it. Thanks in advance
I figured that I’ll zip out the passenger side catalytic converter bolts to lower the exhaust..by far gives you the most room to get the transmission pan in and out. Just loosen the bolts just enough to lower the exhaust…then tighten them back up when you’re finished
This was great! Idea for next video:Spark Plug change. You cant get to it from under the hood at least the back ones (i couldnt on my 2014).Need to go in through the wheel well by removing the carpet liner on both sides. Then they are right there. Still kinda a pain but I’ve seen alot if people ask about this and not much out there on it at least a clear video...
We definitely plan to shoot this in the future. Thanks for the tip and the feedback! If you think of any other videos that would be helpful please let us know.
hi by doing this drop pan , gasket , filter and filter gasket once oil is all drained out how much will you need to refill? doesn’t the TC hold some ? just don’t want to over fill thanks
Two pry bars put it on top of exhaust use cross member where mount sits for leverage takes two people same reverse order. Gives clearance you need exhaust will flex a tad. It's easy to do if you have it on a lift. Make sure your remove and or check that the old gasket comes off the old filter and is not stuck up in the trans body. Its a bit* when they get stuck worse if you leave it in and double gasket the filter. Or just follow the book and loosen the exhaust bolts. Rust belt for get it torch em snap em either way paln on new bolts
Take the bolts off from the exhaust flange on both sides and pull down a bit/ it will give you enough clearance to take the transmission pan out. Less work and steps.
I don't understand. You only used the 1/2inch hose for top return line. So at 3:04 what's with the 2nd hose and at 3:10? Because you said you'll need a half inch and 3/8 and you have 2 drain tubes in the catch pan
A couple notes from my "learning experience " lol. There was no mention of the torque converter and that it holds more than half of the system fluid (12 qts ish). The only way to get that fluid out and change all the fluid is by connecting to the cooler lines like you did. If you bypass that step you are only draining the fluid in the pan ( 5 qts ish) and cannot refill the total amount of fluid ( 12 qts ish)! Also a quick delineation any model with the dip stick fills at said dip stick, and has NO drain/ fill plug. I accidentally tried pulling the dip stick out of the trans thinking it was the fill plug mentioned In a video. Also a dropped the pan with ease using a ratchet strap and 2x4. I did save some headache removing all but one side of the pan bolts to allow it to drain, and then used a fluid transfer pump to suck the rest out before dropping the pan out and had little to no mess! Thanks for the video good work!
I have a 2014 Silverado with the 5.3. I installed a cheap drain plug on the pan so I don’t get showered with transmission fluid. Also I’m able to drop the pan without messing with the exhaust. I don’t mess with the lines either. I know there will always be unchanged fluid somewhere in the system. Simply changing the fluid and filter annually will make it likely to reach 300k miles. There’s other things in life to spend money on, get as much use out of these trucks as you can.
Agreed with just changing the filter and fluid is probably sufficient but we wanted to show the full process. I am stymied that you were able to get the pan out without adjusting the exhaust? How exactly were you able to do that because I had no room as you saw in the video.
They should put a drain plug in the pan. They should incorporate a spin on filter. They should route the cross over pipe 3/4 inch lower. Routine service should never be that big of a pain in the Royal Backside. The filter seal can be reused they don’t degrade and the new filter will pop into place. If a filter is a different dimension it’s junk anyway. They should take the corporate bean counters out and tar and feather them. The modern automatic transmission is by far the most complex mechanical device on the vehicle and the service procedures are as ridiculously difficult as possible. Fresh quality fluid make all the sense in world as it is common sense to keep the internals in top form. They like people to just buy new vehicles rather than service. I still drive my 1951 Chevrolet 1/2 ton with original drive train. I know how to make things last as they did in the day.
its weird, I have had GM cars and truck (gassers) all my life (turbo 350's & 400's) and not one with a drain plug from the factory. but my medium duty GM trucks with ALLISON 1000"s, all have spin on filters and drain plugs. I've always waited till around 100k miles to change fluid, seamed to be fine for me never really had tranny problems. and I still towed 10k lb trailers regularly.
Thanks for the nice detailed instructions. I tried these on my 2015 suburban, When I remove the top hose connection and started the car to collect transmission fluid, with the pressure of the fluid, in less than 20-30 seconds, around 4 quarts of transmission fluid spread all around. than I opened the pan to collect. Only 1 quart left in pan. I am guessing I only got the oil inside the pan. Was the top hose wrong one to disconnect for suburban? thanks for any help
So the exhaust makes sense and doesn’t at the same time I can see it for getting it to temp faster though it becomes a problem once at temp. Just a heads up it’s always a good idea to replace a gasket like that when you remove it even if it is removable and brake clean isn’t that great for rubber so if you’re dead set on reusing it maybe just wipe it with a rag instead of using brake clean on it. Anyhow good video.
Does anyone know if you ELIMINATED the exhaust crossover pipe what that might do? Can it damage anything? I'm considering just cutting the pipe out and putting some v bands on so it can be removed later and also putting a drain plug for later down the road
Matt Epps Cadillac Escalade transmission fluid change has a good video, too. Crow/Pry bar under cross frame and above cross exhaust pipe integrated/coupled with a floor jack or a rachet strap wrench secured, along with tightening the two entities, collectively, around the cross frame and cross exhaust pipe. Patience is a prerequisite for the aforementioned project/endeavor. Plus, if you're going through all of that labor, along with the expense, purchase a OEM new gasket and, of course, a new OEM filter from a Chevrolet dealer in lieu of the more expensive Cadillac dealer parts by providing said applicable VIN#. Noticed a substantial improvement, yielding seamless shifting acceleration/deceleration and overall performance utilizing AMSOIL signature series 100% synthetic ATF. A satisfying return on investment for sustainable longevity and piece of mind.
Thanks! Yeah it is crazy they designed it this way. Huge pain in the butt. The gasket doesn't need to be replaced everytime. Obviously it doesn't hurt to and I made sure to have an extra one on hand in case it was needed but these gaskets should last quite awhile. I plan to change every 50K miles since I am running the higher quality Amsoil fluid
In the future I am only going to do a filter and fluid change (not a full flush) so I'm only changing a portion of the fluid. By changing frequently it will make sure that none of the fluid in there is too old
They sell a transmission pan with a plug installed on it. When replacing the pan I would install a new one so I wouldn't have to worry about that again. Doorman sells one at advance auto for a little under 40 dollars here is the part number. Fits 2010 and up maybe earlier years too am not sure. Part # 265-811 (Advance Auto)
Yes its for GM and it should fit all. I looked at it close and the one I seen you pull out of your truck and it looks the same. I have a 2010 Suburban and it says exact fit. I subscribed and love these videos.
@@TheSundaeDrive No this PAN will NOT WORK! I ordered this Off Amazon bout a Year Ago and it is only for Older Tahoes Not the 07s ! I Prmoise ya Save your Loot! This is the Pan that would work! Click the LINK! www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-24250062?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-acdelco&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjeTUBANaOzTlxkzF27GXns3lJKA_qoUXCCWhDZoOousR9PpshFupv4aAkV0EALw_wcB
One thing I've noticed is everyone pulls to the front of the vehicle then immediately down. I didnt touch exhaust or anything. I slid straight forward. And pushing the Trans cooler line up to keep the pan as level as I can sliding tword oil pain. A little force is necessary but mine slid out with 3 little smacks
Been binge watching your channel and mean no offense, but if you jack up the transmission from its mount, you're jacking up the engine as well and the exhaust manifolds....and the crossover. It's not like the transmission is going to pivot from the engine in that situation lol. Flexing down the single output exhaust seems more realistic. Its a long run pipe and theres some play in there you can get away with . Again, great channel. Great journey you've had and thanks.
Thanks for the support! Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yeah, definitely not my favorite way to do something but it worked in this case. Wish they gave a little more clearance so it wasn't necessary
@@TheSundaeDrive I finally got around to doing this this weekend. I stand corrected. With the exhaust strapped down, jacking up the transfer case does create more gap between the x-over and pan. I had the pan out in less than 10 seconds. Went back in with a pan with a welded bung and plug. Thanks again.
Man I’m glad you showed the other way of doing this flush on 6L80 Today I tried the other way every RUclips Mechanic shows And I have the E85 4.3 V6 And where the 5.3 & 6.2 driver side lower cooler line sit , is apparently my MOTOR OIL COOLER LINE .. So I just wasted 1 hour & 850 miles worth of brand new oil ...grrr .. Cool I’ll do what you did . Now question The female end takes a 1/2 O.D or I.D hose ? And the pipe takes a 3/8” I.D.Hose Correct ?? ?? ??
Pan Bolt Torque is 80 in-lb or 9 Nm (not 90 Nm) sorry for the typo
100inch pounds
Since you changed the fluid in 2018, have you had any issues or complaints with switching to the AMSOIL Transmission Fluid?
Been thinking about going to amsoil instead of the dealer fluid for my ford, and i see positive reviews, im still leary.
Nope. No issues at all. I did another change 50K later as well when I swapped the torque converter (have a video on that).
hello bro, a question I would like to know if the tightening of the screw of the pan silverado 2012 is the same
Yeah I just sheared my bolt because I didn't bother to double check these numbers. Thanks!
You 100% CAN remove this pan without doing anything special at all. I just did it on my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3l. Lay on your back with your head towards the front of the car, twist the pan slightly to the right (drivers side), and it will slide out. Took me about 2 minutes.
That said, I love your videos and really appreciate the level of detail you include.
I will try this on my 09!
Good to know! I'll have to try that next time! And appreciate that feedback! Nice to know they agree helping!
@@_Gundy_ You dont need to do that on an 09 goofball
@@Chevelle602 LOL yup!
100% just did the same way
Pan Removal Trick: I have 2018 Tahoe 6L80 trans. and the pan will come right out! Not sure if your ride will have it (i know most do), but I removed the heat shield on passenger side of pan (2 bolts). Then I was able to slide the pan over to passenger side about 3 inches, then twisted the front of the pan towards the driver side and it came right out! Removing the little heat shield gives you lots more room. If you look at the back of the pan (shallow end), there is a little raised area on the bottom about 3 inches from the passenger side, that spot is the point that will allow you to move passed the exhaust y pipe (cross over pipe). Hope this helps!! 👍
Recently bought a 2016 Silverado; have been religiously watching your videos to learn everything about these trucks! Thanks for all the details and tips! One thing to note, I wouldn’t clean gaskets with brake cleaner. It reallllly dries out the rubber. Or at the very least, if you do have to clean it with brake clean, coat it with oil to rehydrate the rubber. Alot of us will also put a thin layer/bead of silicon on the gasket. Overall, awesome videos!
Just changed my transmission fluid (not a full flush just Change) and now going to change front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid. Thanks for the tutorials, they’re genuinely the best on RUclips and have helped a ton!
Appreciate the video it helped immensely! super easy change once I jacked up the transmission. One thing I will note I have a 2016 5.3L Sierra and the cooler lines attached to the transmission didn't have a quick connect. I instead found the return line on the transmission cooler in the engine bay and disconnected it there with same process, surprisingly easy to get to with loads of room around it. I just inserted the drain tube into the transmission cooler and it was a snug fit. If anyone runs into the same problem it is the lower line on the transmission cooler on the driver side. Your method was great because it replaces more fluid than other videos I've seen who just drop the pan. Noticed a significant improvement in shifting too!
Awesome! Glad it helped and thanks for the tips!
Good job GM, almost everyone knows transmission failures are heat related... so put an exhaust crossover up against the pan...
Very good point
well damn... that makes some good sense. wonder if a heat shield can be placed on the pan where the exhaust runs under. Wonder if it will drop the temp by a couple of degrees?
Yea that added on top of the bypass, of course it’s gonna run hotter. Of course the wind will help with some of that but still. Don’t know what gm was thinking there
Almost every manufacturer that makes V8 or V6 vehicles routes the exhaust that way.
Just changed my trans fluid and filter 2014 Silverado. The video was a great help, worked like a charm. Truck drives and shifts better than new.
Awesome! Glad it helped
I just swapped my trans. fluid and filter in my 2018 sierra 1500 base. Installed the transgo therm. delete kit as well. For those out there that have yet to do this let me tell you - follow every step these guys displayed. Pan won’t come out with just the strap around the 4”x4”‘s. Gotta use the third jack to to push the housing up to. “Couple hour job” - my ass. These guys make the best how to gm truck vids. Thanks a bunch, keep’em coming.
Appreciate that! Glad they helped you out!
I did the same service on my truck, if I may suggest....there are (3) 15mm bolts on the exhaust flange on the passenger side, the studs there are long. Just loosen those nuts and you will be able, by hand, to lower the exhaust cross member enough so that the pan can be removed. No other gymnastics under the vehicle needed. I then anti seized the exhaust bolts. I did have to use a Dewalt impact to get those 15mm bolts loose.
Ok good tip! I might make a second video on this showing some of the suggestions we've received
I will definitely look into doing this! This is a nightmare job - for sure.
Did you need to remove the oxygen senor to get to those three bolts by the passenger side? or Remove the wheel and side well to access those three bolts? I have the 2011 with 18 bolts pan and see there is no room from the bottom but it seems to have room from the side.
I just had mine removed to pull the motor for the AFM. Delete and you need to go from the side to get some of those bolts.
@@slowestrider4918 the oxygen sensor may need the electrical connection unplugged but it can stay in the downpipe
I pried my exhaust down slightly with a big pry bar, then I was able to get the pan out.
Great video..
Same I used a big bar on top n jack on there end of bar it worked
@@ericeric9208 I did that also.
Rotate the front of the pan to the right.
A couple tips I learned on my older gmc, it was parked for years before I got it and I'm working through the issues as they come up. The transmission fluid change didn't go as usual, I've done this more than a few times. Here's my tips.. Use a sealed bucket with a pouring spout, any hose small enough to fit down the dipstick and a shop vac to make a fluid vacuum pump. It'll get most of the fluid in the pan. Just drill a hole big enough to have to from the hose through, shove it all the way down and stick the shop vac down the pour spout. My small craftsman fit perfect. It'll help to be air tight. I would be cautious running the pump that low... I'd think it would be safe to do several fluid changes. Also drain plugs are cheap so just install one if you're that far in, be careful of placement and get the hallow bolt good and tight. I had to replace that garbage rubber gasket that came in my kit. The old hard gasket was done as well. Go with a hard gasket if you replace it or you'll see why putting a drain plug on when you have the pan off is a smart move. I'd also entertain a second cooler in series and synthetic fluid. It'll creep out though if things aren't just right. Worst case, they make a special rtv for synthetic transmission fluid, worked pretty good on drain plug threads. I hope this helps someone.
Good tips! Thanks for the write up!
My truck has 78,000 miles, do you think it would be wise to change the filter. I have a small pump I use to change the oil in my I/O boat engine and could suck the fluid from the transmission with this.
My first project on this truck I wasn’t cussing and frustrated thanks to this video!
At 160k I did have some sludge, but no metal shavings on the pan magnet thankfully. The transmission pump was barely moving the old fluid out, but by the end it had fresh fluid flowing perfectly.
Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped you out
Just got done. What a pita! No jack but there’s room. Came up 1 qt short. Used 14.5 so I pumped as I filled. Pumped out of the lower radiator fitting. 1 year old it was a little dirty. Big pull with a trailer last month from Philly to Yellowstone. Just dark. Magnet, not bad. Thanks for the viddy.
Glad it helped 👍👍 Definitely not the easiest one to change
You had just enough clearance without moving the transmission or exhaust?
Great choice on the fluid. the Amsoil ATF (Red Label) was the first product of theirs I ever used back in 06 became a dealer in 07 and have not looked back. I put it in an 02 Cavalier doing the flush procedure where I took the line out of the radiator after dropping the pan and cleaning the magnet this was when the car had around 60,000 miles. Well in 2016 I thought it was time to do it again had another 70,000 miles on it at that point and I was shocked at how clean the transmission pan was and the fluid was still red! Now at that point I changed to the blue label fluid you use because GM recommend Dexron 6 in place of Dexron 3 now. I also added a auxiliary cooler and a magnefine inline magnetic filter. Just changed that magnefine filter and opened it up a few months ago after 34000 miles and 4 years or so and the filter had almost nothing visible in it and the magnet had some fuzz on it.
Amsoil is good stuff!
You people are a goddamn MLM cult.
I have a oil evacuation pump for changing oil in a boat works fantastic on transmission oil removal so the pan will be very near empty. Less mess
If you get a replacement pan (inexpensive) and weld an O2 bung with a plug with a copper washer, it makes it easy to drain. I do a drain and fill every second oil change which gets about half of it.
So I attempted this on my 2017 Chevy Tahoe. All the steps will work except where you get the transmission fluid from. There are no C-clip connectors coming off the transmission. You will need to drop the splash guard to access the trans-cooler lines. I had a hard time tracing mines and made the mistake of disconnecting oil lines running into my radiator (not fun). So I bailed on the flush and opted for a pan-drop where I just changed the fluid in the pan. The ratchet strap, wood and bottle jack combo worked like a charm at getting the exhaust down, along with jacking up the transmission. I was able to successfully get the pan out and refill with 6 quarts. Transmission is shifting better. I would have like to get another 4 quarts or so out of the transmission but I’m a neophyte and DIY car maintenance and didn’t want to take the change of screwing things up by guessing. Hopefully someone does a video/write up on the 2015 - 2018 GM trucks.
Thanks for the feedback. That's interesting that the cooling lines are connected differently. Glad the video at least helped a bit with the change!
Just did my first fluid/filter change on my 2015 Sierra tonight. On my truck there is a plate with a 10mm bolt holding the 2 cooler lines in instead of the spring clips. I took pics of you want to see the difference. Just let me know.
Ok thanks for the info! Could you shoot us a pic? Cliff@thesundaedrive.com
The Sundae Drive just sent the pics to you. If you don't get them let me know.
I got them. Thanks :)
I went through the same thing on my 2018 but was able to do it with just jacking the trans up. I probably would have saved some money on the cuss jar by pulling the exhaust down.
Good video, thank you for posting it.
After you've changed the filter 4 or 5 times , I just welded a drain bung to the low spot om my trans. pan ...drain as much as you can , then refill a gallon and run through the gears and in idle for a few minutes , then drain it again.....I just buy the cheap Valvoline ...change the motor oil and trans fluid at the same time ...works good and real easy ...! This way you get all of the converter oil replaced ...
Not a bad plan and if you change it frequently. I would still change the filter once in awhile too
Thank you for the video and those mentioned remove exhaust bolts. I just finished changing my 2011 5.3 by removed exhaust bolts first. The driver side is more accessible than the passenger side but i end up need to remove both wheel wall to access all six bolts. Penetrate Liquid sprayed the night before. It was to my surprise for the ease of removing passenger side but the driver side got me worried for a while. The 24" wrench bent and the bolt does not budge. I sprayed more and use hammer to knock around manifold housing. It took some effort to remove driver side with extra 36" pipe.
When pipe dropped, there was plenty of room to remove trans pan. It does seems to be enough room without dropping the pipe but I just couldn't risk it. I applied plenty of anti-seize on all six bolts for help future removal. Thought about spending close to 300 for that B&M with drain bolt but by loosing bolts slowly to let oil drip slowly didn't even have any on the floor. I may still buy that B&M for change oil only. Thanks again.
I did the same, loosening the exhaust pipe flange (3x 15mm) on the passenger side, allowed the cross member pipe to drop. Also, if you have an extractor, the dipstick is a nice access to extract practically all the fluid from the pan.
Thumbs up on the video.. its great...thanks a lot for the technical info.... this is the problem in Silverado the exhaust pipe is obstructing the removal of the transmission oil pan...
For those with a 2500HD and 6.0 I had no clearance issues dropping the pan on my 2012.
When I did my 09 Sierra denali, I broke exhaust manifold bolts because of pulling down on the exhaust. I now have 1 7/8 SS long tube headers with stainless steel ARP header studs. Worth every penny since the headers have a removable pipe section under the transmission
That makes me want to do that upgrade more now
I also added an external spin-on Napa Gold hydraulic filter (10 micron) in line with the trans cooler lines on both my 2001 and 2011 Suburbans. My Allison 1000 inspired me to do this with its spin-on, much easier than dropping the pan to replace the filter.
Interesting idea!
How many miles have you put on it since then. My concern is that it might restrict flow.
@@rayss3323 both those vehicles are gone now, unfortunately. I had those kits on for about 2 years, so maybe 15k miles or so, but I would change the filters once a year.
Did this on a 99 Jeep XJ and it seemed to help. Sold it before the first filter change but the additional capacity and filtration couldn't hurt.
@@danieln3999it could hurt if it changes the flow
I drilled a small hole in my transmission pan, and then another on the side. Being VERY careful not to go far in at all. Then, you open your transmission dip-stick to allow air in. The fluid will drain out easily. Then, I bought an aftermarket transmission pan that had a plug in it to the next time I swap fluid, it would be super easy.
If you take a 2x4 and put it across both cross members then put a ratchet strap over the exhaist pupe you can lower it enough to have the pan clear without unbolting the xmission. You can accomplish this because of the flex pipe on the stock exhaust. If you have an aftermarket exhaust without a flex pipe then tou will have to unbolt the xmission. Just an experience of mine.
***sorry for the typos
Good tips! Thanks :)
Easier to use the line at the radiator for engine running draining of trans fluid.
If you got a long enough hose and hand pump you can pump most of the pan fluid out through the dip stick tube so the pan drop isn’t so messy 👍🏼
Great idea GM running exhaust right under transmission pan. Wonder how much heat gets transferred?
For those of you attempting this, there is another video on RUclips that shows that you don't actually need to REMOVE the pan to change the filter and fluid, or even clean the pan for that matter. There is enough room to simply move the pan out of the way to change the filter, and get rags in there to wipe everything down and clean the magnet, as well as replace the gasket. The majority of the (wasted) labor here and in the comments is spent trying to remove the pan entirely, which isn't really needed when all you're trying to do is replace the filter and wipe the gunk out. Please save yourself the headache of trying move your exhaust around and create more work.
If you want this job done correctly, the pan should be removed and cleaned to surgical standards. Why anyone would half ass this is a mystery.
How do you know what is inside the pan if you can't see inside?
It is a lazy way out.
@2tirefire79 and @MachineDr., I'm pretty sure @rcchris1467 would use his phone to look in the pan and make sure everything's good to go...
Great video! Did this on my 2016, pulled the head pipes off the manifolds though. Used the PML deep pan with amsoil & new filter. Thanks for the help!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the outstanding video sundae. The tips you shared are universal and valuable. Disregard those trolls and hecklers that not pick on you should have done it this way or that way. They can make their own video as they know so much. You're views and thumbs up tell the story
Thanks man! Much appreciated :) we do our best.
I completely agree! It is always easier to critique other people's work, than do the work yourself!
If you tow boats and trailers semi heavy, I’ve killed several of these transmissions. Seem to be good for 80 to 100 thousand miles. It doesn’t seem to matter if you change the fluid or not. One I did 88000 failed the next one I didn’t change went 100000. Great presentation👍🏼
Thanks for Feedback and info. Just curious, was it the torque converter that broke apart internally and grenaded the trans or something else?
Yeah I wouldn't tow anything "semi heavy" with a half ton. That's what 3/4 and 1 tons are for.
I know this comment is older but did you run the factory setup during that time? GM has released a TSB related to the thermal bypass valve (transmission thermostat essentially) and its clear they've concluded that these transmissions are being run too hot (190+) with the factory setup. The updates thermal bypass lowers the opening temp by roughly 40 degrees.
@@GrandPrix46well that sounds good but, on Suburban and Yukon XL there are no 3/4 tons. They say they can tow a set amount of weight, ought to be able to do it.
@slalomking the 3/4 ton Suburbans have either a 6.0/4L80E or an 8.1/Allison 1000, along with a leaf spring full floating 14 bolt rear. I'd tow "semi heavy" with those, but not "heavy heavy" because you're still limited by a lack of gooseneck/5th wheel hitch, and SRW only.
Edit: They have 4L85E's behind the 8.1's in the Suburban/Avalanche/Yukon XL 2500's, not Allisons. But the 4L85's are pretty damn strong, too.
If you happen to replace the cooler lines at the same time as a transmission oil change you’re able to unbolt the pan and slide it forward without doing anything else. Fits perfectly under the exhaust till you’ve slid forward and out
Better to half torque the bolts, then go to full torque.
Great you are using Amsoil ATF. It is outstanding fluid. I've been using it since around 1980.
Nice! Yeah, we said the the wrong torque in the video 🤦🏼♂️ I pinned that as the first comment. Added a 0 by accident
Great video. On my 2015 Chevy Suburban, that top line is actually the sending line and the bottom line is the return line. I verified this by removing the thermostat and putting in a 1/2 in outside diameter and 3/8 inside diameter clear tubing into the top port of the transmission itself. Nothing came out of the bottom port. So I was trying to think how you were able to get transmission fluid out of that line. The only thing I can think of is that the thermostat was open, which allowed fluid to go into the return portion of the thermostat. From there, I believe part of the fluid went back into the transmission and back into the return line where it got pushed all the way back into the sending line which resulted in fluid coming out. I could be wrong, but that makes the most sense.
Thank You. Great video, and very well organized with lots of information. I need to do this on my Chevy soon.. Not really looking forward to this job...
No problem! Glad it was helpful. Definetely not a fun job lol
folliwed the vid and worked well thx. only thing i did diff was pump out the fluid thru the dipstick before dropping the pan so less messy. used a liquid vac for $50 on amazon
That's not a bad idea. Can you shoot us a link to the one you used? We'll probably make a video on that
Could you post what vac you used???
Mitivac works great
Good video! The 2500HD does not have clearance issues. Dropped my Pan last weekend without any problems.
Nice! That's good to know. Looking forward to getting a 2500 in the future.
Thanks, followed your steps except I used to pry bar with a floor jack to Crank dat pipe down a little bit I pumped out like four gallons doing like one gallon at a time 18 quarts of full synthetic Castrol in there and I tapped a drain plug into the pan. I have a 2015 Tahoe LTZ
Nice! I want to tap mine next time as well. I may buy an extra pan ahead of time so I can get it tapped and ready to go for the next change.
Very important to get the snap rings on correctly when you drop the pan take the thermostat off and put the snap rings on when you're out from under the vehicle much easier and you won't fuck up the snap ring and have the line pop off a week later squirting a gallon and a half of brand new trans fluid on the ground lesson learned
@@TheSundaeDrive get the b and m transmission larger trans pan. Built in drain plug and holds extra 2 quarts.
I'll definitely look into that. I need to do this service again soon
Thank you @@richardmayer5293 - that sucks that happened, I appreciate you sharing.
Great video, I’ve been looking all over for a video like this.
You can ratchet strap the exhaust down all the way against the rear transmission support, and that gave me enough space to drop the pan on mine
Good tip!
I have a 2017 6l80 for a Yukon 5.3 and found out the hard was the top line coming out of the transmission is the high pressure line! I thought they would be the same as this one but found out the hard way it was the opposite. Worked great otherwise.
Interesting that they switched it but glad the video was helpful otherwise for you!
You have a mistake : 80 in/lbs =9 N/m not 90 N/m . Great job , thank you.
Yeah I know :( I pinned that as the top comment.
Just bought a '14 Silverado LTX with 67k miles that is in incredible condition. I wasn't aware of the chevy shake or shudder problems prior to purchasing. Test drive was short, and I don't think I got it above 70 on the highway. Noticed a little shudder/shake but assumed it was the road. Like pretty much everyone I have the shake at approximately 74-80, but it seems to go away or at least improve a lot at times.
Decided to do this flush and filter changed with AmSoil, bought 13 qts. Luckily there's a dealer 15 minutes from my house. Following this video everything went great, actually thinking I'd be done in 2-3 hours, until I had to put the little c-clip back in. I tried every way possible, but it just wouldn't go in, until finally it sprung off and went flying, probably lost forever. Bought a new pack of clips and kept trying, but it just wouldn't go. Took the bottom one off and tried it on the top and snapped right in!!! WTF!! Used the new one on the bottom and clipped right in. That little clip must have taken 4-5 hours.
Took it for a quick spin on the interstate and the shudder is greatly improved and may even be fixed. The shakes seem to be less but I'm going to have to get the 2-piece drive shaft from Performance Driveline to hopefully fix it.
Thanks for the videos! So helpful and quite entertaining.
It's always the little things that take the longest! Glad it improved!
I just changed a couple quarts at a time starting at about 50,000 miles. Pumping it out and refilling through the top. It’s stayed pretty clean
That's a good idea. changing the filter will also help.
@@TheSundaeDrive Yea I’m going to do a full service at 100k. I’ve heard you don’t want to let it get too bad and then just add all brand new fluid. Idk if that’s a myth or not.
@@stevesherlock5334 yeah, I've heard the same. Probably some truth to it
@@TheSundaeDrive But babying and making sure to always use the best products didn’t help. Had the infamous lifter fail at 70K. Man I was pissed lol. I learned it’s been a real problem with the new LT engines.
@@stevesherlock5334 yup. That's why I did the dod delete on mine
Thanks, your video helped me out a lot! Just did this on my 14 Silverado
Awesome! Glad it helped you out!
That won’t solve the problem GM is junk
I had dual exhaust on mine and eliminated the cross over across the tranny pan. Glad I did that.
Good idea for sure! What exhaust did you go wtih?
Get a pry bar on the exhaust that goes across the pan and pry it with your shoulder while you take the pan out and boom. It only takes 6 qts of transmission fluid when you do a fluid and filter change
That will work too 👍👍 definitely a pain. I want to do a custom exhaust setup with long tubes eventually and completely clear the area under the pan
This just saved me a headache thanks
Glad to help?
I disconnected the trans fluid line after the cooler so that I flush the cooler as well . The connection point is near the air filter housing
Good idea! 👍
@@TheSundaeDrive great idea....
Question? When you did this did the trans oil come out from the cooler heading towards the back of the truck or did the trans oil come out of the line heading towards the front of the truck?
What type of vehicle do you have @EverydayJ1786?
Great video, well done, good instruction. Thank you!
Thanks!
ik this is an older video but if you use a big enough pry bar you can grab the exhaust and pry on the transmission crossmember and wiggle the pan out. this will most likely require two people but better than jacking the trans and unbolting ur exhaust especially if you live in the rust belt.
How did you prevent the gasket from moving during reinstallation? I have heard of a trick where you run either a Small ZipTie or even a sandwich bag tie. At some of the major areas like corners and center of each sides. Install loosely tight enough to hold in place but loose enough that you can grab one end and pull through.......(to the outside of the pan) after the adjacent fastener bolts get snug. Remove the ZipTie remember keep the bucks part of the tie on the putt of the pan. Pull ZipTie and the gasket should stay in place. Depending on how many pan bolts there are you could do like every other one and as the adjacent bolts get secured the ZipTie gets cut and pulls through to the outside of the pan. I would think safety wire, butchers twine or any type of moderately heavy duty string.......(Not Sewing Thread) would serve about the same purpose..
Basically you are using the string to help keep the form and shape of the gasket.
Also what is the current guidelines for Gasket vs Sealant. In the old days with cork gaskets it was sealant on the pan, gasket then another layer of RTV on the transmission housing side , tighten as normal and allow about 30-60 minutes to cure.
Modern day gaskets are rubber or silicone and it comes down to. A choice of Gasket OR RTV....NOT both!!
I learned the hard way about using both...fortunately warranty covered it but good lesson learned!
The zip tie sounds like a good method. The screw holes in the gasket is tight enough that you can actually stick some of the screws through and they will stay in place and simultaneously hold the gasket. If I'm remembering correctly there might be a couple tabs that hold it in place as well
I’ve used fishing line and tied knots at a few bolt holes. Once in place, it is easy to remove the line and finish the install. It holds well but still gives you some wiggle room to get the pan in place
I have done many of them you can get them out without jacking the trans up or pulling the exhaust down and I put drain plugs in them before I put them back on
A drain plug is a great idea and I am going to do that in the future for sure
Great video! What interval do you suggest replacing transmission fluid? I think the manual says a 100k, kind of seems long. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
In regards to the 6.2L not having a dipstick, my 2015 ESV has a dipstick for some reason. Thank you for the video though, I will be attempting this in the spring.
Thanks for the info! That might be the older 6.2? I'm not sure. Maybe it is different on different models. Good luck!
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm not sure either. The manual does not mention the dipstick and the 2015.5 and up with the 8 and 10 speed does not come with the dipstick. But I was quite shocked (and ecstatic) when I was changing the engine oil and saw the trans dipstick.
It's so annoying that some of them don't have them
@@TheSundaeDrive Just the stupid but inevitable trend of killing the shade-tree diy'er. Right up there with "maintenance subscription plans". Movies, Music, Video games, software and now cars. Everything is a continual pay service. We don't even own 100% of our cars. Just the "car" but not all the workings of it. It's bullshit. lol
That is so true. Hit the nail on the head
Why not use the fittings on the radiator to flush the fluid.
Hello , I just saw how you do your gearbox oil level. It's fine with the engine running and the gearbox warm. The engine is stopped and the gearbox oil is hot. Not easy for me, it's the first time I've done it. Thanks in advance
is there a specific reason why the exhaust runs below the pan?
I figured that I’ll zip out the passenger side catalytic converter bolts to lower the exhaust..by far gives you the most room to get the transmission pan in and out. Just loosen the bolts just enough to lower the exhaust…then tighten them back up when you’re finished
That works too - as long as they aren't corroded too badly
Excellent Video and good work.
Thanks!
This was great! Idea for next video:Spark Plug change. You cant get to it from under the hood at least the back ones (i couldnt on my 2014).Need to go in through the wheel well by removing the carpet liner on both sides. Then they are right there. Still kinda a pain but I’ve seen alot if people ask about this and not much out there on it at least a clear video...
We definitely plan to shoot this in the future. Thanks for the tip and the feedback! If you think of any other videos that would be helpful please let us know.
I did all the spark plugs from under the hood on my 2011
I successfully did my plugs on my 14 L83 underhood. I remember the back ones I had to use a combination of swivels and extensions though.
It is doable but annoying for sure
Thank you for the honesty!
Try to be helpful! Honesty is the best way!
This is a really well done & useful video... Thanks
But dude! The word is ACROSS not ACROSSED!!
Haha thanks! Did I say that 🤦♀️😂😂
Twice!
Haha 🤦♀️🤦♀️
Hey brett kaer if your so smart you shouldn’t need a tutorial video grammar nazi 😑 SMH
You forgot a period in your first sentence..... you might want to learn how to use punctuation before you critisize someone else. 😉😀👍
hi by doing this drop pan , gasket , filter and filter gasket once oil is all drained out how much will you need to refill? doesn’t the TC hold some ?
just don’t want to over fill
thanks
I have a 2015 gmc Yukon xl denali 6.2 but mine does have a dipstick It has the 6speed, I’m assuming all the 8 speeds dont have the dipstick
What about replacing the filter sealing ring? Does that need to be done?
Two pry bars put it on top of exhaust use cross member where mount sits for leverage takes two people same reverse order. Gives clearance you need exhaust will flex a tad. It's easy to do if you have it on a lift. Make sure your remove and or check that the old gasket comes off the old filter and is not stuck up in the trans body. Its a bit* when they get stuck worse if you leave it in and double gasket the filter. Or just follow the book and loosen the exhaust bolts. Rust belt for get it torch em snap em either way paln on new bolts
Thanks man! Definitely annoying but not terribly once you figure out a method that works for you
Take the bolts off from the exhaust flange on both sides and pull down a bit/ it will give you enough clearance to take the transmission pan out. Less work and steps.
That will work too. I was worried about them snapping off which is why I did the method I did.
The Sundae Drive You are right about that, depending on the age and location like up north the rust area it can snap off.
@@Anonymous01416 yeah, that's where I'm at 😬😬
Fantastic video. Thanks. Keep them coming.
We will do our best! Hope it was helpful for you
I don't understand. You only used the 1/2inch hose for top return line. So at 3:04 what's with the 2nd hose and at 3:10? Because you said you'll need a half inch and 3/8 and you have 2 drain tubes in the catch pan
A couple notes from my "learning experience " lol. There was no mention of the torque converter and that it holds more than half of the system fluid (12 qts ish). The only way to get that fluid out and change all the fluid is by connecting to the cooler lines like you did. If you bypass that step you are only draining the fluid in the pan ( 5 qts ish) and cannot refill the total amount of fluid ( 12 qts ish)! Also a quick delineation any model with the dip stick fills at said dip stick, and has NO drain/ fill plug. I accidentally tried pulling the dip stick out of the trans thinking it was the fill plug mentioned In a video. Also a dropped the pan with ease using a ratchet strap and 2x4. I did save some headache removing all but one side of the pan bolts to allow it to drain, and then used a fluid transfer pump to suck the rest out before dropping the pan out and had little to no mess! Thanks for the video good work!
Glad it helped!
Buying a drill pump helps. Especially with the leftover fluid. Just stick it in the pan when its loose. Takes out majority.
Good idea 👍I'm planning to get a mightyvac kit to suck out the fluid next time through the dip stick.
I see you didnt replace the oring for the filter. Ive seen that done in other videos. Good overall.
You are correct. It should be swapped.
I have a 2014 Silverado with the 5.3. I installed a cheap drain plug on the pan so I don’t get showered with transmission fluid. Also I’m able to drop the pan without messing with the exhaust. I don’t mess with the lines either. I know there will always be unchanged fluid somewhere in the system. Simply changing the fluid and filter annually will make it likely to reach 300k miles. There’s other things in life to spend money on, get as much use out of these trucks as you can.
Agreed with just changing the filter and fluid is probably sufficient but we wanted to show the full process. I am stymied that you were able to get the pan out without adjusting the exhaust? How exactly were you able to do that because I had no room as you saw in the video.
They should put a drain plug in the pan. They should incorporate a spin on filter. They should route the cross over pipe 3/4 inch lower.
Routine service should never be that big of a pain in the Royal Backside.
The filter seal can be reused they don’t degrade and the new filter will pop into place. If a filter is a different dimension it’s junk anyway.
They should take the corporate bean counters out and tar and feather them.
The modern automatic transmission is by far the most complex mechanical device on the vehicle and the service procedures are as ridiculously difficult as possible.
Fresh quality fluid make all the sense in world as it is common sense to keep the internals in top form.
They like people to just buy new vehicles rather than service. I still drive my 1951 Chevrolet 1/2 ton with original drive train. I know how to make things last as they did in the day.
Completely agree, an easy access filter design and a drain plug would make this as easy as an oil change as it should be.
its weird, I have had GM cars and truck (gassers) all my life (turbo 350's & 400's) and not one with a drain plug from the factory. but my medium duty GM trucks with ALLISON 1000"s, all have spin on filters and drain plugs.
I've always waited till around 100k miles to change fluid, seamed to be fine for me never really had tranny problems.
and I still towed 10k lb trailers regularly.
Makes me want an Allison transmission for my next truck.
Thanks for the nice detailed instructions. I tried these on my 2015 suburban, When I remove the top hose connection and started the car to collect transmission fluid, with the pressure of the fluid, in less than 20-30 seconds, around 4 quarts of transmission fluid spread all around. than I opened the pan to collect. Only 1 quart left in pan. I am guessing I only got the oil inside the pan. Was the top hose wrong one to disconnect for suburban? thanks for any help
So the exhaust makes sense and doesn’t at the same time I can see it for getting it to temp faster though it becomes a problem once at temp. Just a heads up it’s always a good idea to replace a gasket like that when you remove it even if it is removable and brake clean isn’t that great for rubber so if you’re dead set on reusing it maybe just wipe it with a rag instead of using brake clean on it. Anyhow good video.
good points and yes - using brake cleaner on rubber/plastic isn't a great idea.
Does anyone know if you ELIMINATED the exhaust crossover pipe what that might do? Can it damage anything? I'm considering just cutting the pipe out and putting some v bands on so it can be removed later and also putting a drain plug for later down the road
Thanks for the info!
Matt Epps Cadillac Escalade transmission fluid change has a good video, too. Crow/Pry bar under cross frame and above cross exhaust pipe integrated/coupled with a floor jack or a rachet strap wrench secured, along with tightening the two entities, collectively, around the cross frame and cross exhaust pipe. Patience is a prerequisite for the aforementioned project/endeavor. Plus, if you're going through all of that labor, along with the expense, purchase a OEM new gasket and, of course, a new OEM filter from a Chevrolet dealer in lieu of the more expensive Cadillac dealer parts by providing said applicable VIN#. Noticed a substantial improvement, yielding seamless shifting acceleration/deceleration and overall performance utilizing AMSOIL signature series 100% synthetic ATF. A satisfying return on investment for sustainable longevity and piece of mind.
Thanks! Yeah it is crazy they designed it this way. Huge pain in the butt. The gasket doesn't need to be replaced everytime. Obviously it doesn't hurt to and I made sure to have an extra one on hand in case it was needed but these gaskets should last quite awhile. I plan to change every 50K miles since I am running the higher quality Amsoil fluid
@@TheSundaeDrive Y change so soon if u r using the best SS trans fluid...
In the future I am only going to do a filter and fluid change (not a full flush) so I'm only changing a portion of the fluid. By changing frequently it will make sure that none of the fluid in there is too old
They sell a transmission pan with a plug installed on it. When replacing the pan I would install a new one so I wouldn't have to worry about that again. Doorman sells one at advance auto for a little under 40 dollars here is the part number. Fits 2010 and up maybe earlier years too am not sure. Part # 265-811 (Advance Auto)
Thanks! I will definitely check this out! Maybe we'll make a video on it
Yes its for GM and it should fit all. I looked at it close and the one I seen you pull out of your truck and it looks the same. I have a 2010 Suburban and it says exact fit. I subscribed and love these videos.
Awesome! :)
@@TheSundaeDrive No this PAN will NOT WORK! I ordered this Off Amazon bout a Year Ago and it is only for Older Tahoes Not the 07s !
I Prmoise ya Save your Loot! This is the Pan that would work! Click the LINK!
www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-24250062?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-acdelco&gclid=Cj0KCQiA05zhBRCMARIsACKDWjeTUBANaOzTlxkzF27GXns3lJKA_qoUXCCWhDZoOousR9PpshFupv4aAkV0EALw_wcB
Do your Hw next time before shipping off bad info!
One thing I've noticed is everyone pulls to the front of the vehicle then immediately down. I didnt touch exhaust or anything. I slid straight forward. And pushing the Trans cooler line up to keep the pan as level as I can sliding tword oil pain. A little force is necessary but mine slid out with 3 little smacks
Been binge watching your channel and mean no offense, but if you jack up the transmission from its mount, you're jacking up the engine as well and the exhaust manifolds....and the crossover. It's not like the transmission is going to pivot from the engine in that situation lol. Flexing down the single output exhaust seems more realistic. Its a long run pipe and theres some play in there you can get away with . Again, great channel. Great journey you've had and thanks.
Thanks for the support! Glad you are enjoying the videos! Yeah, definitely not my favorite way to do something but it worked in this case. Wish they gave a little more clearance so it wasn't necessary
@@TheSundaeDrive I finally got around to doing this this weekend. I stand corrected. With the exhaust strapped down, jacking up the transfer case does create more gap between the x-over and pan. I had the pan out in less than 10 seconds. Went back in with a pan with a welded bung and plug. Thanks again.
I have the 6.2 liter and I do in fact have a dipstick.
Ok good to know!
My h2 with the 6.2 also has a dipstick. What vehicle do you have?
@@hungryhungryhummer Hi Darth. Silverado High Country 1500. Best, Robert LearnChristianity.org
Well done, great video
Thanks! Hope it helps
Great video. Couple of ideas that definitely help!!!
Awesome! Best of luck with it
3:10 Will there be any problems in the transmission if I start the engine without fluid in the transmission?
On the 2015 Silverado crossover pipe is back further and lower so you can remove pan at least on V6 engine.
The v6 has a different setup but good to know. I can't wait for a dual exhaust setup on my truck because it will eliminate this problem
Lucky bastard
Man I’m glad you showed the other way of doing this flush on 6L80
Today I tried the other way every RUclips Mechanic shows
And I have the E85 4.3 V6
And where the 5.3 & 6.2 driver side lower cooler line sit , is apparently my MOTOR OIL COOLER LINE ..
So I just wasted 1 hour & 850 miles worth of brand new oil ...grrr ..
Cool I’ll do what you did .
Now question
The female end takes a 1/2 O.D or I.D hose ?
And the pipe takes a 3/8” I.D.Hose
Correct ?? ?? ??
Aww man that stinks. I hope this one helped! I'm not positive on the diameters. It has been way too long since I did this video lol
It was a pain in the butt, to do this filter. Thanks for the video. 2011 Silverado
Yes it is lol. Np!
Great video, thank you!
No problem!
Good video, thanks. If you are planning on keeping the truck for a good number of years, why not add a drain plug to help next time?
Definitely not a bad idea to have a drain plug!
Great video brother
Thanks! Hope it helped
I believe some 6.2 do come with dipstick. I have a 2015 Yukon Denali 6.2 and it came with a OEM dip stick
My ‘10 Silverado with the 6.2 has it as well. Maybe it’s a LTZ and Denali Package deal?!?! 👀
I have a 2018 5.3L Z71 with no dipstick
Which transmission do you have?
Think you can remove the exhaust at the forward of the header and just slide the whole exhaust back? Think that will clear the pan?
If you run the truck thru the gears while doing the flush will that evacuate the torque converter. Doesnt it spin when in gear.
Omma need to know what that super cool grill is that you are running. Please.
Just the factory grill painted to match the body color.