The Art Of Invisible Gem Setting
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- Sometimes, watches are entirely dressed with diamonds or colored stones. In terms of what is known as invisible setting, each of these stones is precisely cut to fit next to the other without any space in between. The result is stunning: harmonious, luminous surfaces without interruption.
Invisible setting arrived in the watch world in the early 2000s thanks to improvements to tools and machines, which allowed the design of the structural components upon which the gemstones are set as well as the gems themselves. The aim is to create a cavity for every gem that has stretchers on the sides. These stretchers secure the stone using grooves cut into it.
The firm Bunter located near Geneva is the only one in Switzerland (and possibly even outside of Switzerland) to be able to realize the most complex shapes using the best stones. Led by Claude Sanz, who is also the owner, Bunter began life as a producer of machines and tools for gem-cutting. Sanz realized his dream by adapting the skills found within the company so that it is now able to invisibly set a watch from beginning to end. To succeed in this, he also hired engineers and specialists as the firm works directly from the original plans provided by the brands.
Also a gemologist, Sanz invented workflow that respects the gemstones’ beauty such as perfectly positioning every stone so that it best reflects the light. In terms of colored stones, the challenge is even bigger. Did you know that the more you cut a colored stone, the brighter it gets? To have a harmonious visual surface, the craftsperson must evaluate the result before he or she starts to cut, having the final product in mind. 
Хобби
I don't understand all the negative posts! To watch a fine work of art being made, and to be told and shown how it's done, and the narrator showing the world that hey- I'm not the one making this, look! Here are all these amazing artists-cutters, goldsmiths, setters- and here are all these fancy machines- the CAD etc that we use. That anyone could watch it and not be humbled, or awed by what people can make. Well, the narrator is my hero for putting it all together and making a video that I can watch in my kitchen for free!
they aren’t posts, they’re comments.
This is amazing! I'm not inclined to wear fancy jewelry, but what goes into each step, the combining of the very old techniques with the most modern- well- I could watch this video over and over. Kudos to everyone there.
Jewelry is a luxury item. Why can’t people understand that. Nothing luxury is needed, it’s wanted. If you can’t afford it then stop hating. If you can afford it then buy it.
How powerful are we as human beings. If we would stop buying these things, all this would colapse and loose value. We keep these people wealthy.
i appreciate his actual honesty about the diamonds because what he says is the truth. things he neglected to say about the invisible setting. the reason the setting is both setting and stone is special tiny groves are actually made in the stones themselves to hold them into the setting. they don't just drop in an ordinary bright cut stone.
@2:25 he talks about grooves
tha ghruoof
This shpuld be a 40 min episode. I have many more questions than when i started. Like how do jewlers invisible set hundreds of stones in a grill?
Mark Spohrleder I am also very curious about this you find the answer?
I believe they create a lip around the edge of what would be the border of each individual tooth, then use pressure to keep them in?
This topic isn't touched that often when it comes to watckmaking. Great video that gives a lot of insight to the process!
Fantastic video 😊
Thanks and the description which you provide below the video was even more interesting than the video itself :)
Sorting through sand-grain-sized stones to select the ones most suited for a given piece...what a tedious job. These folks earn their pay!
+echthroi9 And they love it too!!!!
It really is less tedious than you think. Once you get into the mind of a setter and get used to it you can set up to 200 stones a day! Truly an amazing job and we love it
Goodness! I want to do this!
Fantastic video. Learned something new.
Cool dude really humble an straight foward. Reminds me of my pops. Great video.
Love how this guy straight up points out that diamonds are actually a common stone who's price has been artificially fixed.
absoftitanium inflated*, there's no Y
yes, because they are incredibly hard and easy to work with. very bright so it's easy to measure the clarity. the bulk of diamonds ever mined never see a piece of jewelry or the market. they are hoarded
Yea but colored diamonds are rare. Which he said right after.
Drebo Dollaz gem grade diamonds of large sizes (over a ct) are quite rare as well
common in the market compared to top grade color stones is not the same as a non scarce product that has had its price manipulated. he didnt say a word about its price, because hes not ignorant of the market like you are. gem grade diamonds of large size are extremely scarce. but thats not what they need in this type of stone setting, they can use stones less than a half carat which are quite common (and quite inexpensive for everyone).
Great video. I would like to see more.
fine craft! nice video takes u behind the scenes
this is a really cool video - the dude wasn't just spouting some marketing crap.
Pillowcase would have liked to see some samples
Great insight guys, well done. Great to see the craftspeople at work 👍
Phenomenal!
A bigger process than I realized....hence the prices.Very interesting.Thanks.
I myself charge 8 EUR per stone and 11 EUR if it has to be set on a steel watch
its much easier with all those machines they have. id love to have some but they cost as much as the end product with all those emeralds all over it.
I need for stone fitting in jewellery rings necklace bangles etc
Very good nice works
Very nice
Yes nice job 👍🏻
Gem spangled watches are too vulgar for my liking, but I do appreciate the work that goes into the process of dressing.
funky3ddy yeah it's too distasteful
Except a rainbow Daytona of course
Very nice report Thanks :)
+Opal Kingdom Thank you! Claude Sanz and his team are pionneers
+TheWATCHES.tv even though I like gems and watches I'm not big fan of this type of timepieces :) but for me the real beauty is 'the perfection of different crafts merged together.. it's like alchemy of art precision gems and jewelry .. and without knowing the whole process you can't really appreciate or even understand 'the idea' behind this type of timepieces .. for most it's just about the Blink
best regards
Captions: Hundreds of millimeter
Actual: Hundredths of millimeter
Size mattress...
Nice fitting
I like his honesty and from what I can tell he’s telling the truth about it all! I own many watches made by them and it’s unreal talent
So how do they stay in place?
Where would I buys stone is there any good and safe website to buy them
nice
They probably upcharge 100000% for the stones.
I think with micromachining and MEMS development we will have some amazing mechanical machines on our wrists in the future.
+SoCalFreelance Technology will indeed shake a few things soon! Have you seen this: ruclips.net/video/u8fIJRznv7k/видео.html about gold and platinum 3D printing in watchmaking?
+TheWATCHES.tv Ah, yes, I see I thumbed up that video already. Excellent reference for things to come. I'm certain that in the near future an entire mechanical watch will be 3D printed layer by microscopic layer blending different materials in unique ways. Such a technique might require solvents to remove tiny support structures as it is very difficult to 3D print overhangs without supports. Plenty of YT videos showing the 3D printing of complex gear systems. The user ends up just forcefully twisting the gear mechanism to breakaway any support structures so the gears are free floating.
damn the precision required to do that gave me anxiety 😂
;) haha
I like limestone gravel.
There are no vacancies for work? please tell me 😔
2:25
What is “invisible setting” exactly ?
Invisible setting is kind of stone setting without bezel of gold and when you watch it you see only diamond
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
how do the stones stay in the setting? some kind of adhesive?
Yoko Kurama elmers glue
@ 3:00 no glue or adhesive @ 2:25 they cut grooves is the gems to match the setting so it holds
magic
Hello friend, can you set invisible?
👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️
La gente no entiende cuánto se beneficia todo el mundo de esto…en Colombia miles de familias se benefician, desde los joyeros artesanos, diseñadores, comerciantes de piedras, comerciantes de herramientas, vendedores, administradores, empresas completas dedicadas a un solo proceso como el casting, grabados a laser, grabados a mano, talladores, escultores, los que hacen baños de electrólisis, son un miles de personas que se benefician de algunos ricos que se lo pueden permitir. Criticar a los Joyeros o a quien los compra es una total….
A *mad* in Switzerland company?
That's right ;)
Sir I joint this job
I understand the possible physical methods, but I think his way of doing it is proprietary and so it's not discussed exactly how
Mssr. Sanz has an interesting variation on the Glasgow Smile.
The stones themselves aren’t the reason of the price, diamonds can be pretty cheap. You pay for the labour of making the jewellery, plus extra if it’s a big brand name.
So far I have still no clue how the stones hold together without anything visible.....
Yea seriously. He never explained how it works
Small pieces
I bet these very talented and skilled artisans are ashamed at the gauche "bling" they make these days. Years ago they made sophisticated works of art for sophisticated customers. Today they produce eyesores for people who never had the quality parents to teach them that bedazzling your garments is for children and rhinestones are for Elvis.
Yeah, I bet those younger jewlers are pissed at getting to be a part of a community of their peers and make millions doing it, sounds so terrible.
All Paess 1thousand 600
I have pink Sapphire
Natural stones 1000crt
So much artistry and talent wasted on something utterly hideous
Your hideous
Extra......
Diamonds are not that rare more like too expensive
If you need a microscope to set stones, the stones are so tiny they became worthless and your mainly paying for the jewelers time. Shards are definitely junk and just leftovers being used from a big stone.
except almost every setter will use a microscope for everything, even setting a 2ct stone because you need to be able to see everything and get it right.
still nice to not let things go to waste... though these things are beyond hideous...
I know. I had a small vial of 1 and 2pt stones, maybe 25 of them I salvaged from broken rings and such for years. then one day I decided to take them to a jeweler and sell em. but he said they are barely worth .60 each and really didn't want them because he could buy a hundred at a time in the cut and color he wanted for $50. tho most were really bright and pretty I was sad.
stones themselves aren't all that valuable- it's what goes into shaping them precisely, setting them into precisely milled settings-that is what makes it so valuable! It takes years to learn to set stones- even many jewelers get a specialist to set them, and another to cut them. It's amazing to me that anyone does it at all, and that people can own these items, not just kings and queens.
At 2:26 if u see it like! ( something from 1945)
i kept trying to click that link for sooo long until i realize it's broken. if you do it with colons you can click them
like this 1:30
same if it's an hour long just w/ another digit or two
hour minute second
12 :52 :36
12:52:36
Thank!
Welc!
nothing was shown....retitle as, "visit with a color stonesetter", not "how"
He said diamonds are not rare... Really?
TBW The Bearded Wonder they're not. The company only restricts the amount of diamond in the market so they can charge more for them.
Hy im come from Indonesian
Diamonds are a scam
yep. bad investment. much better off buying colored stones. plus, they're prettier :p
Jacob Marshall the price.
Its not a scam, its subject to supply and demand. It is true that it is somewhat monopolised. However, if people aren't satisfied then they will just stop buying it. Driving the prices down again. Nobody is forcing you to buy it
WodernWarfareTree says the conspiracy theriost who probly never cut a diamond in their life.
He says himself that they are not a rare stone. The rarity was fabricated to justify higher prices
hand making horse you ring
lol
Title did not match the video content.
Not a second of video about how invisible gem setting is done. Clickbait.
Are you serious? They showed the actual setting before the stones were in then stated how it was done. You might have missed it if you weren't paying close attention, and the closed captions used an incorrect word, but it was there all right.
I HAVE THE DIFFERENT STONES ...WILL YOU BUY ??
이제 시계는 팔찌개념으로 차는 시대
This explained... Nothing! He says invisible settings aren't that difficult, the cut of the stones are more important. Not one shred of explanation as to how it's done.
Billy Nage
Probably because you need years of apprenticeship to become this skilled.
Fabio, I'm sure that's correct, but there was no video that showed actually how the invisible setting is done. Just pictures of it after it was completed.
You should then read the description of the video, it has some information about the process itself and how is done
0:20 I'm not that much into watches, but this is ugly af.
Lol anyone see the guys nazi ring loool
do you need to be Jewish to work there?? i always wondered