Great design. This is the only one I see on RUclips that has a seal ring and padding. Other masks don’t have any padding and would cut into your face after a few hours.
@@KyleFalconer1 You need to make a mould from the 3D printed part first because the 3D print would not be heat resistant, but other than that it would work I suppose
if you used higher melting temp plastics that are still relatively affordable/available for the mold like petg or abs you could use a lower temp plastic for the mask (PLA or equivalent non-porous sheet for instance).
Thank you for making this video. I have received a significant amount of requests to 3D print masks and leaving me to be the kill joy in our community expressing it is not safe to do so. Typically the answer why it is dangerous tends to be more technical than the individual making the request desires. Your video summarizes some of the problems and will be helpful in communication. I agree with the comment below that the reduced filter material surface area is area of concern. The increased flow rate due to the filter being smaller would reduce the ability of the filtering material. Not having a quality test setup to determine the change is a variable that needs to be communicated to the end user.
The one issue of the smaller filter diameter is that you are forcing a larger quantity of air through at a much higher force than is safe. The better solution would be to make the filter surface area larger with a baffle of sorts on the inside to evenly spread the air across the element. I suggest a filter at least 2x3 similar to that of most 3m particulate and biological filtration elements. Beyond that, excellent.
With the correct printed material and proper filter, yes. Adding a gasket on the face is crucial as well. It must be completely sealed which is not always possible to do with run of the mill materials on a 300 dollar printer.
I use N95 masks for sanding. One reason the give a good fit is because they are completely flexible so will deform to fit a wide variety of faces. The single biggest problem I've found is that when first put them on they provide a pretty good seal (for example you can see the mask deform when you inhale), then they get better as they warm up and get a bit moist from exhalation... then they get progressively bad - starting at about an hour of wear - because the elastics holding them in place begin to stretch out and this gets progressively worse, especially so if you remove the mask and then put it back on because it has to stretch a lot to go over the head. I would recommend either *very* strong elastic or a velcro strap. Take a look at the faces of docs and nurses coming off shift - their skin is indented and bruised from the mask.
.08mm is 8 microns, .08 microns is 80 nanometers. Clearcoat or a varnish will close small holes in 3d print. Rectangular prisms and square recesses would allow the strap holders to have more controlled angles or placement.
So just wondering... viruses move with the medium they are contained in. A microporous mask is not perfectly air tight, but almost - enough to make the seal more of a concern in that regard. How are these microscopic holes a problem in that regard? How likely even is it for a relevant amount of infectious material to creep throught the several layers of 3d printed material?
It's not thought to be airborne, and only to process a ventilator goes out can put the virus in microscopic aerosol. That is why only medical professionals need air tight equipment, which goes for their eyes, nose, and mouth. If you're wearing a surgical mask you will lower the risk of infecting others, when you sneeze or cough. If you wear multi layer surgical mask (especially one with water proof layer), and some eye protection, like glasses, you're reducing the size of being infected since you block out some droplets from hitting your eyes, mouth and nose. Glasses obviously only cover you from the front, so somebody could sneeze on your exposed side. All of these 3d prints are basically useless, since they're not made by qualified engineers, who know the requirements for a PPE mask. If there's a high chance they're not safe, they can't be used. I don't think a surgical mask is good enough to filter out the aerosol though, but I have no idea. Surgical masks are only made to make the wearer not contaminate the outside right infront of them (cough will get trapped by the mask, or be ejected behind the wearer).
That's one of the things that people don't really understand about general use masks. It's for protecting other people from you, not protecting you from other people. The idea is to put enough layers between you and the outside world that when you breathe or cough or sneeze it's bound to hit something on the way out.
It maybe impossible to stop all viruses. Over time eventually a small number of virus slip past. However inhaling 10 virus particles into your nose is quite different from inhaling 100 million virus into you lungs. The printed mask is much safer than a simple surgical mask or face towel. A true n100 mask fits your face with silicon and fits tight. It also has special filters. To the best of my knowledge Covid 19 has about a 1% mortality rate ( all comers). Small pox has about a 50% mortality rate. Lab certified N100 would be required. Influenza infection is way down in the USA at this time. Probably because of simple masks. I think 3-D printed masks are great but must be used and modified for best performance. Thank you for the great video.
In version 2 of the mask, the release version, the filter area is more than twice the size of the one in the video. I did think about adding an expiration valve to the mask, the only problem with it is that with the virus being so small, it could actually enter the airway the split second the valve needs to close and air is aspirated into the mask. Some medical professionals are even taping over the valves in 3M masks, just in case.
I must admit I was quite disappointed when I was researching filter material and reached vacuum bags. Most HEPA bags aren't. The bags them selves are typically around MERV 10-12 and rely on the permanent filter to get most of the small stuff out.
Caution with vacuum bags. Many contain fiberglass which is dangerous to breath. Check with who makes them to ensure its free of that and safe to use as a filter. :)
Just finished printing the main mask bit. Did it without supports so the bottom is just the tiniest bit warped but it came out great. I did it PLA at 100% infill and 240C so it feels super solid but I will still follow all your steps. The mask fits the face perfectly just printed, put my hands on the two holes and zero air. Cant wait to completing it. I was watching other facemask vids but yours was the first that I felt was worth making! Thanks!
If anyone is going to build a mask like this, and rely on it, please PLEASE do a proper fit check. I wish you showed a procedure in the video, but I'm glad other designs were called out for their flaws. 1. Put the mask on and tighten the straps. 2. Completely cover the air intake on the filters with your hands 3. Take a deep breath. The mask should suck hard against your face and no air should come in. Facial hair will probably prevent a good seal. Filters of this type will get clogged with particulate and eventually it will become very hard to breath through them (though commercial filters are usually significantly larger, and will last 10 hours to 1 year depending on use). Replace them often. If the mask begins to smell, clean or replace it immediately. Be responsible, stay safe!
you can avoid those holes by increasing the nozzle heat so it can be melting the plastic not only what going trough the nozzle but at the same time while putting the layer on it can also melt slightly around that layer plus increase the printing flow around 130% especially wall flow so it can fill the walls completely :) so you’ll have completely perfect print if you have a good printer and extruder in good condition! good luck
Thanks for sharing. I just realized the designed shape doesn't quite fit my face. Could you share the editable source file, maybe people with this situation would be able to edit them accordingly. Thank you!
Very informative video. I am a medical and aerospace engineer and specialized in materials. I use SEM machine to actually look at 3d printed parts. To let you and the community know, those are not holes in the prints, they are dimples that do not go all the way through. I have done pressure and fluid tests to see how much leakage is really there. 1 wall is solid, accorsing to my sem images. 2 walls is just fine. Remember, we dont breathe out viruses, its impossible, we breathe out infected cells which are huge and easily blocked. We do not need to concern ourselves with the size of a virus because thats not how a virus works:) viruses are non living and NEED a living cell to provide the resources to allow replication. The smallest size host cell that can allow replication is 0.4 micronsParticle size is important, just because you can smell something doeant mean the mask is not working. Sulfur molecules are 0.00004 microns in size, and we can smell them. mask material is statically charged to act as a magnet against 0.3 microns because that is the HARDEST size to capture. 0.3 size moves very linearly and follows the same streamline and pressure gradients as the fluid they are in, air.. things smaller than 0.3 are easier to catch because they bounce off of other gasses. This ia known as Brownian motion. Lastly, PLA and 3d printed parts are very esay to sanitize and clean. Rubbing alcohol and soapy water can get into pores as small as viruses. This is because soapy water and rubbing alcohol have a very low surface tension, which gives them a very small wetting angle. do a web search on wetting angle. I actually did my thesis on this to test if PLA printed parts are food safe... answer is yes and no hahaha
Wouldn’t closed cell EVA foam be better for this application? The foam used by many cosplayers. It’s airtight and flexible, so you just need to cut out the shape of the mask, glue it together with simple hot glue and insert a filter. The foam itself would probably work as good as that rubber to keep a right seal. Also, you can cut foam much faster than you can print :)
Thank you for this video and files. I appreciate that you point out some of the flaws and dont give a false sense of security. One suggestion is to design a expiration valve. This should not be too hard to do as there are many examples used on production gas masks. The one trouble I would see in this is you would probably need to use a flexible material. Another idea would be a valve like the N95 mask... I dont know exactly how that could be made with household materials.
A couple of bottle caps plastic circle a balloon or rubber gloves can be cut into a circle and a Couple screws can be fashioned into intake outtake valves. I had a video but I cannot find it at this moment I'll try to come back and link I'm. Sure a new model can be fashioned for these printed masks ... Here's a link that has a home made valve in it somewhere ruclips.net/video/QODJN3UHluA/видео.html
You should redesign the strap anchors to tri-glides or "ladder" slides. Allowing the strap to be adjusted without any additional hardware and without having to tie your elastic head-strap in a knot at each anchor point
If you have a hammer, is everything a nail? By all reason sewn cloth mask with a steel nose wire and a filter liner is a much better choice. Easier to breathe in, better fit, and loads more filter area. Even with 3d printing as a tool, it'll be better to explore the solution space, and potentially use 3D printed parts largely as reinforcements and attachments. Will also make for much quicker prints.
Not sure that the leakage caused by microscopic holes is going to compare with the leakage of an standard N95 or P3 mask. The airflow is going to seek the path of least resistance, so an adequately sized vent is important to avoid air bypassing the filter and entering around the face. The filters themselves rely on variety of techniques to capture particles (mesh-type, collision/sticking, electrostatic, etc.), they're actually pretty interesting! Ditto on the Copper3D mask: printed one of them and was so appalled by the fit I abandoned any further work on it. Their "industry partners" are simply stockists for their filament 🤨 Great video, lots of excellent information 😊👍
Breathing out the same path that you breath in will make the filter moist, and quickly difficult to use. The Medical University of South Carolina (M.U.S.C.) S.A.F.E. Cartridge System has a check valve, much like a gas mask. No DIY design will be perfectly sealed. I think the point of the mask is to filter large particles of water vapor from the majority of inhaled air. It will be interesting to see whose design will prevent infection best in coming months.
You shouldn't care about few microne holes in 3d print unless you glue the mask to your face really well. Because a lot of air goes between the mask and skin.
I think there is a lot of confusion about what the mask is supposed to be able to do to be usefull. Replacing a respirator that protects the person who wears it in a contaminated environment is just as hard as you describe. You need to seal it to your face, only intake air through the filter and either dispose of it after short use or be able to sterilize it. However there is another use for a mask and that is if I want to protect others from myself because I cannot know for sure if I am one of those asymptomatic virus carriers or not. To that end our government now requires everyone to wear some protection over nose and mouth outside your home. Everyone who can is sewing cotton masks for everyone who cannot. Everyone wears them, even all the TV hosts, government officials etc. Again, the point is to stop yourself from ejecting viral droplets onto other people directly and decrease how much you contaminate public surfaces around you. The 100% cotton cloth can then be sterilized in boiling water for a few minutes or in washing machine at 60°C or higher cycle and then used again. For this second purpose I think a 3D printed mask can work. You just need to design it so that the filters can be replaced or sterilized and the mask itself can go through some sterilization. I am playing with some prototypes now and printed in PETG they can easily survive trip through 70°C dishwasher and a long dip in isopropylalkohol. So I think I can make it as good for myself and people around me as the cotton mask but more comfortable to wear because I wont have a damp cloth sticking to my mouth when breathing in.
Jiri Hebeda finally a great answer , the point mostly is to stop the cough with the mask, or minimize it , i agree with the fact that a 3d mask can be sand and filled , seal it and a good replaceable filter( hepa) not too many ppl know that hepa filters fight particles at 0.3 microns, even if virus and bacterias are at 0.1 micron level, anybody that have studied filters enough know that when particles reach 0.1 microns , things get weird and this bacterias and virus start crashing around with gasses and air particles make in it bounce, and actually way easier for filters to catch it, the real deal is particles in between 0.1 and 0.3 microns, those are the hardest one to catch, but hepa filters are the best for this job.
OU812 at that measurement of microns , particles are so weightless that they start zig zag crashing with air particles and gases , which is way easier for filters like hepa to catch them
Some people might be allergic to that kind of rubber seal, I once use it on my mask and wore it around 5 hours it grew blisters on my chin (I was walking and caused sweating on my face in that 5 hours) Great video,Like
3D printing is a great for a prototype now you could take your design and prepare the surface so that it is no longer porous. Then transfer it to a silicone mold, and from there use epoxy or two part plastic. At that point you could produce masks faster then you can print. Great job on your video and great that you are making people aware of the porous layers.. to those starting out they might know the layer gaps compared to virus size. Have you looked into resin based printers ?
Aubrey Jahier i will , promise. also i have to say, there are plenty of fishes for everybody, i kinda felt scared since i spent a lot of time and money on this pipeline , but in the other hand, if more people can do the same we can save lifes, that has to be more important than money, but obviosly we all want to be rich, ill pick a midpoint.
Aubrey Jahier im happy to know that im not selling this at crazy prices like the guys that i have seen in ecommerces, charging 50$ for masks not even sanded or filled with prime.
You should ensure the inside of your mask is painted as well.... you need to be cleaning this mask in soap and water every day! You can get sick from build up of bacteria that originated from you!!!
There is another mask which does not require smoothing because it prints flat on the bed, and molds to your face(Some of you may know what I am talking about. That one can print in 3 hours. This is a good design, but for mass producing I feel like this one would take a long time to print, I am talking 5+ hours. Correct if I am wrong, I wouldn't want to make false assumptions.
You don't really have to sand/fill as this process adds very little to no benefit. Its true that there might be some gaps between layers, but you have to remember that the print is actually composed of several walls, if their is a gap on the first wall, its very unlikely that it will go through the second wall, and if it does, its even less probable that it goes through the third wall. You can simply test it by shining light through the print wall in a dark room, and see if any photons escape, you won't.
Ya it’s layers and layers stacked against or on top of each other. Even if one small layer is missed the next layer will smash or fill it in. Of course u still can’t compare the consistency or reliability to mass manufacturing or traditional making methods. But at times of shortage it’s definitely bette than nothing.
What about having the plastic material so close to your face, I have a big problem with the smell of printed parts from some pla, it gives me a headache.
There is a lot of good information in this video. A friend of a friend emailed me the STL files of the mask that was not safe. I looked at it and know it was not safe and chose not to print it. This mask looks promising but right now I am looking into another mask. I really like the filler and painting idea and will incorporate that into the mask I am making now.
3/10 good ideas but need some tweaks. Just use spray on undercoat paint first. Your Filter is comically small. Bigger screwed side filter with much greater filtering medium surface. Valve behind filter, and second for exhaled air...just like in every 3M half face mask. Just Streamline prototype...less parts, less ingredients, less complexity. And People will use It
Luki I am looking for a 3d printed valve - 2 parts plus the plastic flap - For use on N95 style or cloth masks. Yep you need 10x surface, plus the valve in all 3m masks lets the humid exhale out. thx
If you have both but don't trust your Rein printer to produce models this size you can also coat the mask in 2 layers of 3D printign resin inside and out and then harden that. This will also make the mask resistant to most desifectants.
You realize that if You paint the final result with primer paint layers, Top layer and then Gloss layers There will be no holes Boom Mind blown problem solved.
First, I liked your seal joke. Second, Is the filter holder plastic bits also treated for the holes that you were worried about in the plastic mask? Third, are those wholes big enough to let air pass through, it seems to me that they are not. Maybe you could do some sort of demonstration with a colored smoke or gas on an untreated face mask so we could see the difference. Thanks for the video.
Would it be an idea to make a groove around where you screw in the mask filters - fill the groove with silicone or acrylic sealant - so that the screw down part pushes tightly against the sealant (maybe print a thin washer so the screwing down doesn't tear the sealant). That way you do not need to make a separate rubber gasket.
Megabytes, is it also better to fill and paint internal side for smoothing and easy cleaning since the print 3d layers of such side collects bacterias outing from mouth ?
DO NOT use most vacuum bags as they may have fiberglass in them which is dangerous to breath in. Check with manufacturer of filter material you plan to use to ensure no fiberglass and that it's safe to use as filter media.
The notion that 3D printed masks will let aerosols pass through layer gaps and porosity is laughable. Unless you are only printing 1 perimeter or an inline seam, this is not an issue. Porosity must be measured against pressure. Your lungs are not anywhere near strong enough to cause air to pass through.
Problem is systematic, not to be solved by mkaing 3D printed masks that have hard time working, need to be processed by hand etc. Unless you'd use tehcnology that is up to the task: Pa12 form SLS that is later sealed with something like Dreibond 6063 or Loctite 401. You can also use SLA with biocompatible resin like XFab and Ds3000. Should be safe. Another issue is outlet valve that is hard to do right. Masks with no valve wil not work properly as they'll have very high flow restircitons. Also each of the above cost many times more to make than buying good quality halfmask like Secura 3100 (I've bought three for me and my employees yesterday, paid about 15 eur each)
I'm kind of surprised (not saying it is wrong) with the concern of virus penetrating the shell - lit looks to be about 2-3mm thick (so 5-8 shells) and to have penetration every shell would have to have a gap in about the same place to provide a path.
Awesome build man, I'm making some for me and my family as soon as I can. You're a lifesaver, do you have s donation page ? Edit:did you put some Swiss cheese beside your microscope images 😂
@@History.Arcana dimensions for the filter portion were off on the first batch (mistake due to the printer model/software) so those failed and the only successful ones produced I gave to my father (who has a heart condition) and friend who works in a nursing home so overall poorly. However that's due to my inexperience with printing, the fact I could produce a functional and decent emergency item is a testament to the creators tutorial and design.
One note to mention, this mask can not be worn by anyone with glasses so is useless to a massive amount of people unfortunately ...... great design, if you could re work to enable people who have to wear glasses this would be perfect :-)
3d printed m,aterial become very close to airtight if you increase the number of perimeters to 6 to 12. this increases the thickness of the shell that hold the infill.
This is amazing work, thank you for doing this. I might like to dip my toe in and make this with a resin printer. Can you tell me the dimensions (so I know if my resin printer is sized correctly to make the mask body)?
Thanks!! Making it in resin would also require much less post-production because the surface is less porous. The dimensions (in mm) are: X= 114.5 Y= 79.3 Z= 129.3. If it doesn't fit in your printer you could split it in half and then glue it together as long as the glue seals the surface.
I tried the copper 3d mask. It's terrible. It took me about an hour to make it somewhat fit my face but then it's still open because the folded pieces don't seal against each other
Thank you for this video! I am very involved in 3D printing and I get send these things a lot and every time I have to explain that 3D printing safety equipment is just not safe. Good video! And please make sure to merge your stereo audio into mono since the audio goes from left to right all the time. No problem on a phone or laptop but distracting on headphones or a proper audio setup. Thanks for the research!
so, i plan on getting 3-d printer, need to contact hospitals to ask what sort of equipment they need, then follow your design and do some more R+D, and create ppe and tools to protect workers
If you want to help rather start with prusa face shields. And you need to realiste one man will hardly change anything so start a local campaign, find more people with 3d printers, organise and so on
im sure if you just increase the flowrate by 5-10% it would be fine and print the gasket and material on edges with TPU aswell :P- just realsied u dont even need to sand - just spray thicker coats of clear laquer at the end !
Excellent video. Thank you for your efforts and information you provide. Have you considered using the printer to make a female mould. Then make a plaster/PVA male master from that and vacuum form that to make your final mask body in a thin acrylic? I appreciate you have problems getting resources at the moment.
DeWe I’m considering using a vacuum former to make a mask. I haven’t settled on a female or male mould. Would you please help me understand the pros and cons of either? Thank you in advance.
@@matthewsanders9015 I hadn't thought of making the mould female, but I think it may be easier, if you are making a vac former from scratch. Consider a female mould in plaster with a good amount of PVA in the mix to keep porosity down. Cast the plaster into a wooden box with the pattern supported into it and fill it to the top. The top edge of the box can have your seal on its top edge for the hot sheet to mate to. If you design the mask with one filter (probably easier, for the sake of production), make the suction input to the form in a place at the nose/mouth area and at the bottom of the mould. Orient the pattern top edge with respect to the plane of the non linear free edge of the final part to minimise the amount you have to cut off, and to make the thickness of the formed part as even as possible. I think the female mould will give a better surface finish on the inside of the vac, which will facilitate better cleaning. It may be an idea to make a one way exit valve on the mask for exhalation, rather than exhaling through the filters. This can be done with a short piece of cycle inner tube folded over at the end and sealed with puncture repair glue.It ends up like a short condom, is about 50mm long and has a small knife cut in it to let the air out. Inhaling causes it to collapse and seal. I may CAD a model of the vac former this morning. I will share it here. It will be in Fusion 360.
@@matthewsanders9015 Here are some images of some of the CAD I have been making. instagram.com/p/B-kp1RMn-nI/? I used the CAD from the author of this RUclips video and modified it to make the model of the male I will use of cast the female plaster mould. I am printing the simple injection mould for the silicone seal now and will print the vac form pattern mould tomorrow. The rest of the parts for the input filter and valve and output valve will come later. If you or anyone has any suggestions, please add them here.
would be enough to spray it with color spray... by the way, the virus has no intend to seek holes, crawl through and fly further. They need to be sprayed by a sneeze or spit. And for that this mask would be enough. But you are right, a sewing machine will be the better choice of machine for this job.
Depends on the type of paint you used and how thick the layers are. But just adding a little bit of wood filler or even a high build body filler would help out a lot. Hope this information helps and stay safe
that mask was tested with h1n1. in fact, the cov-19 virus is larger by a few microns Of course the active copper-based component is needed. (copper nanoparticles) and It is much better than a homemade cotton mask even without the active component.. the n95 mask is out of stock around the planet. your mask is amazing but the holes for the filters are very small. a little bigger could help
I like the effort you put into this quality mask... But I do think making simpler ones will help way more as masks are needed in masses by the hospitals and yours takes too long to build. As a compromise between speed and quality, what do you think of masks that are printed from flexible filament and then bent? The single sheet should be faster to print and post process (by heat maybe?). Also it might provide an airtight seal at the borders.
Max-Ole von Waldow it would all depend on the surface finish.... CBC rubber is both non-porous and flexible, but degrades over time.... FDM rubber with layer-lines is a bacterial breeding ground, and is probably going to get you sick from not being able to clean it.... a hard mask is nice because you can clean it very easily! You may be onto something but re-usable, cleanable, and effective is what I believe some of the strengths of this model are. That being said, that foam seal needs to be replaced with silicone tubing.... that is the biggest flaw I see in this mask, otherwise this is the best mask I’ve seen yet in the 3D printed community!
Yep, it should work, as long as the epoxy of your choice doesn't outgas dangerous chemicals to breath in, or it reacts negatively to the chemical compounds used to disinfect the surface.
Great design but unfortunately but the problem is that in many countries these types of surgical masks that you used to cut up to make the little filters are no longer available to the general public (if they were, we probably wouldn't need this), they've been commandeered by Governments for medical professional use only. Anything else recommended to use?, how about those 100% cotton makeup removing pads ladies use?, they're available everywhere...
Consider it is kind of wasting time to polish a PLA mask. PLA mask do fatigue fast with moisture, being daily washed, stretched and pulled. Even you polished the surface it may still crack will hurt anyone face with no mercy. Seems you are experienced 3d Print maker so you should know the fact. The crack looks like saw blade. So you better do it with TPU.
Instead of an o-ring, could you apply some sort of non-curing sealant to the threads of the filter before installation? Something like petroleum jelly comes to mind.
Great video! my university is printing respirators, myself and a few people involved have raised concerns and tried to get help researching the safety of PLA respirator frames, but have been met with a resistance. They are very gung-ho and don't want any nay-sayers etc. I'm having trouble finding sources for how PLA can have holes and what size those holes are, you said they can be between 6-8 microns thick, do you have happen to have the source I can look at? Or did you somehow measure it with your microscope?
It's a great thing you're trying to raise concerns about the materials used and the process. I got the numbers from the documents that the ministries of health from countries like Chile and Argentina compiled. I decided to go with the lowest one they cited which was a porosity between 6 to 8 microns. With my microscope I was able to measure holes as big as 50 to 80 microns throughout the surface of the print.
@@megabyte4130 The holes are only an issue if you use one layer but most printed masks have many layers and the chances the holes in layers have gaps in the same place on every layer becomes astronomical. You will never have a 6-8 micron seal to the face anyway and this why this a 95% mask not 100%. If you still concerned with the gaps just over extrude a bit. The 3d printed mask will be much better than the n95 mask will ever hope to be. After hours of use of the throw a way mask the fabric/filter material will stretch and have a poor seal. The real risk on a mask like this is germs in the grooves but this can be over come by using antimicrobial filament and a germicidal bulb in a container to hold the mask.
This is complete overkill. I just printed the Makermask (dot) com model @ 0.10mm on my Prusa i3 MK3 using PLA and once everything is put together, the entire mask is 100% airtight. To the point where if I exhale while covering the center valve, my cheeks inside the mask puff up. Your process is fun, and a great way to make your mask pretty, but it is 100% unnecessary. And by the way, there are people who have their printer dialed down to be extremely precise. The deformations with your print can be addressed on the printer level so you don't have to do any post-process work. If you took the time to dial in your machine you wouldn't have to do all that work... But then again, maybe you enjoy it. But for everyone reading this comment. This process is not necessary. 100% overkill for a mask.
I printed that mask in TPU. Design is good but need adjustments. Nose is too narow on top and too high Also distance between cheeks and nosse needs to be changed (added) it make holes there
Yep, as long as the resin you choose is medical grade. Some resins are famous for out-gassing and reacting with chemicals like IPA which are used to sterilize objects in hospitals so be careful.
Now here's a smart guy sharing his knowledge with the intentions of helping people, and not making a quick buck. Good stuff thanks.
It sounds as if you are saying that it is a bad thing to make a quick buck. Why so?
@@mrnobodyjunior Definitely isnt a bad thing just nice to see one of these videos not linked to a pay only design or blueprint.
Great design. This is the only one I see on RUclips that has a seal ring and padding. Other masks don’t have any padding and would cut into your face after a few hours.
There are some seal hints right at the end of the video.
vacuum formed masks would not have the same porous problems and can be mas produced with the proper mold setup.
Using 3D printing to create the initial mold would work beautifully.
@@KyleFalconer1 You need to make a mould from the 3D printed part first because the 3D print would not be heat resistant, but other than that it would work I suppose
@@rosserobertolli I agree. The 3D print could be used to make the mould.
if you used higher melting temp plastics that are still relatively affordable/available for the mold like petg or abs you could use a lower temp plastic for the mask (PLA or equivalent non-porous sheet for instance).
@@rosserobertolli can print with high temp plastcs that would melt far later than the vaccum plastic :P
2019: Go to the hardware store and buy a respirator.
2020: Reinvent the respirator.
Crazy times we live in.
John Jones no one is reinventing... there is a shortage so people are looking for easier and cheaper alternatives ... what’s the problem?
@@MrRebel165 It was a joke. Lighten up, sport.
innovation born in a dire times
Thank you for making this video. I have received a significant amount of requests to 3D print masks and leaving me to be the kill joy in our community expressing it is not safe to do so. Typically the answer why it is dangerous tends to be more technical than the individual making the request desires. Your video summarizes some of the problems and will be helpful in communication.
I agree with the comment below that the reduced filter material surface area is area of concern. The increased flow rate due to the filter being smaller would reduce the ability of the filtering material. Not having a quality test setup to determine the change is a variable that needs to be communicated to the end user.
The one issue of the smaller filter diameter is that you are forcing a larger quantity of air through at a much higher force than is safe. The better solution would be to make the filter surface area larger with a baffle of sorts on the inside to evenly spread the air across the element. I suggest a filter at least 2x3 similar to that of most 3m particulate and biological filtration elements. Beyond that, excellent.
Like you said, the designer didn't knew how Filters work.
With the correct printed material and proper filter, yes. Adding a gasket on the face is crucial as well. It must be completely sealed which is not always possible to do with run of the mill materials on a 300 dollar printer.
I use N95 masks for sanding. One reason the give a good fit is because they are completely flexible so will deform to fit a wide variety of faces. The single biggest problem I've found is that when first put them on they provide a pretty good seal (for example you can see the mask deform when you inhale), then they get better as they warm up and get a bit moist from exhalation... then they get progressively bad - starting at about an hour of wear - because the elastics holding them in place begin to stretch out and this gets progressively worse, especially so if you remove the mask and then put it back on because it has to stretch a lot to go over the head.
I would recommend either *very* strong elastic or a velcro strap. Take a look at the faces of docs and nurses coming off shift - their skin is indented and bruised from the mask.
Can you upload the files to another site like Thingiverse? I don't like having to sign up and enter my phone number to download
Guerillamail is your best friend for this
Love the SWISS CHEESE photo sprinkled in there.
I know, right? I was like heeyyyy!
Then I was like, dang now I really want some swiss cheese!
Call it gruyère and you will upgrade your sentence.
use ABS, and then give it a quick acetone mist to smooth seal the gaps.
Woyld it actually work? And in pla?
@@ingusmant baware that acetone smoothing is toxic... acetone molecule will remain a long time into the abs... not good for lungs...
@@freedom2000 yes, you could in theory heat it up to help with evaporation. 80C in oven for the night should do.
@@ingusmant there's no safe way to chemically smooth PLA. You can try with chloroform, but it's really nasty stuff.
Bad idea.
.08mm is 8 microns, .08 microns is 80 nanometers. Clearcoat or a varnish will close small holes in 3d print. Rectangular prisms and square recesses would allow the strap holders to have more controlled angles or placement.
So just wondering... viruses move with the medium they are contained in. A microporous mask is not perfectly air tight, but almost - enough to make the seal more of a concern in that regard. How are these microscopic holes a problem in that regard? How likely even is it for a relevant amount of infectious material to creep throught the several layers of 3d printed material?
It's not thought to be airborne, and only to process a ventilator goes out can put the virus in microscopic aerosol. That is why only medical professionals need air tight equipment, which goes for their eyes, nose, and mouth.
If you're wearing a surgical mask you will lower the risk of infecting others, when you sneeze or cough. If you wear multi layer surgical mask (especially one with water proof layer), and some eye protection, like glasses, you're reducing the size of being infected since you block out some droplets from hitting your eyes, mouth and nose. Glasses obviously only cover you from the front, so somebody could sneeze on your exposed side.
All of these 3d prints are basically useless, since they're not made by qualified engineers, who know the requirements for a PPE mask. If there's a high chance they're not safe, they can't be used. I don't think a surgical mask is good enough to filter out the aerosol though, but I have no idea. Surgical masks are only made to make the wearer not contaminate the outside right infront of them (cough will get trapped by the mask, or be ejected behind the wearer).
That's one of the things that people don't really understand about general use masks. It's for protecting other people from you, not protecting you from other people. The idea is to put enough layers between you and the outside world that when you breathe or cough or sneeze it's bound to hit something on the way out.
@@torymiddlebrooks if you cough or sneeze into a surgical mask it's just gonna blow through the sides.
Yup and, as was pointed out, that's not into the patient but into the sterile surgical suite.
It maybe impossible to stop all viruses. Over time eventually a small number of virus slip past. However inhaling 10 virus particles into your nose is quite different from inhaling 100 million virus into you lungs. The printed mask is much safer than a simple surgical mask or face towel.
A true n100 mask fits your face with silicon and fits tight. It also has special filters.
To the best of my knowledge Covid 19 has about a 1% mortality rate ( all comers). Small pox has about a 50% mortality rate. Lab certified N100 would be required.
Influenza infection is way down in the USA at this time. Probably because of simple masks.
I think 3-D printed masks are great but must be used and modified for best performance. Thank you for the great video.
Too small filter area. Hard to breathing thru. There is no expiration valve > the filter becomes wet > more difficult breathing. No good mask.
In version 2 of the mask, the release version, the filter area is more than twice the size of the one in the video. I did think about adding an expiration valve to the mask, the only problem with it is that with the virus being so small, it could actually enter the airway the split second the valve needs to close and air is aspirated into the mask. Some medical professionals are even taping over the valves in 3M masks, just in case.
I must admit I was quite disappointed when I was researching filter material and reached vacuum bags. Most HEPA bags aren't. The bags them selves are typically around MERV 10-12 and rely on the permanent filter to get most of the small stuff out.
Caution with vacuum bags. Many contain fiberglass which is dangerous to breath. Check with who makes them to ensure its free of that and safe to use as a filter. :)
Printing at higher heat would make a denser FDM print. But wow great video. Super subscribed!!!
Just finished printing the main mask bit. Did it without supports so the bottom is just the tiniest bit warped but it came out great. I did it PLA at 100% infill and 240C so it feels super solid but I will still follow all your steps. The mask fits the face perfectly just printed, put my hands on the two holes and zero air. Cant wait to completing it. I was watching other facemask vids but yours was the first that I felt was worth making! Thanks!
If anyone is going to build a mask like this, and rely on it, please PLEASE do a proper fit check. I wish you showed a procedure in the video, but I'm glad other designs were called out for their flaws.
1. Put the mask on and tighten the straps.
2. Completely cover the air intake on the filters with your hands
3. Take a deep breath. The mask should suck hard against your face and no air should come in.
Facial hair will probably prevent a good seal. Filters of this type will get clogged with particulate and eventually it will become very hard to breath through them (though commercial filters are usually significantly larger, and will last 10 hours to 1 year depending on use). Replace them often. If the mask begins to smell, clean or replace it immediately. Be responsible, stay safe!
you can avoid those holes by increasing the nozzle heat so it can be melting the plastic not only what going trough the nozzle but at the same time while putting the layer on it can also melt slightly around that layer plus increase the printing flow around 130% especially wall flow so it can fill the walls completely :) so you’ll have completely perfect print if you have a good printer and extruder in good condition! good luck
Thanks for sharing. I just realized the designed shape doesn't quite fit my face. Could you share the editable source file, maybe people with this situation would be able to edit them accordingly. Thank you!
Very informative video. I am a medical and aerospace engineer and specialized in materials. I use SEM machine to actually look at 3d printed parts. To let you and the community know, those are not holes in the prints, they are dimples that do not go all the way through. I have done pressure and fluid tests to see how much leakage is really there. 1 wall is solid, accorsing to my sem images. 2 walls is just fine.
Remember, we dont breathe out viruses, its impossible, we breathe out infected cells which are huge and easily blocked. We do not need to concern ourselves with the size of a virus because thats not how a virus works:) viruses are non living and NEED a living cell to provide the resources to allow replication. The smallest size host cell that can allow replication is 0.4 micronsParticle size is important, just because you can smell something doeant mean the mask is not working. Sulfur molecules are 0.00004 microns in size, and we can smell them.
mask material is statically charged to act as a magnet against 0.3 microns because that is the HARDEST size to capture. 0.3 size moves very linearly and follows the same streamline and pressure gradients as the fluid they are in, air.. things smaller than 0.3 are easier to catch because they bounce off of other gasses. This ia known as Brownian motion.
Lastly, PLA and 3d printed parts are very esay to sanitize and clean. Rubbing alcohol and soapy water can get into pores as small as viruses. This is because soapy water and rubbing alcohol have a very low surface tension, which gives them a very small wetting angle. do a web search on wetting angle. I actually did my thesis on this to test if PLA printed parts are food safe... answer is yes and no hahaha
Wouldn’t closed cell EVA foam be better for this application? The foam used by many cosplayers. It’s airtight and flexible, so you just need to cut out the shape of the mask, glue it together with simple hot glue and insert a filter. The foam itself would probably work as good as that rubber to keep a right seal. Also, you can cut foam much faster than you can print :)
Beacon of Wierd exactly sr! thats what i did with my masks, flex foam are so good with different faces shapes
When he post and starts video like he posts every week but he actually hasn’t posted in 5 yrs
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
MegaByte dude u legit though at least u came when we needed you most dude
Thank you for this video and files. I appreciate that you point out some of the flaws and dont give a false sense of security. One suggestion is to design a expiration valve. This should not be too hard to do as there are many examples used on production gas masks. The one trouble I would see in this is you would probably need to use a flexible material.
Another idea would be a valve like the N95 mask... I dont know exactly how that could be made with household materials.
A couple of bottle caps plastic circle a balloon or rubber gloves can be cut into a circle and a Couple screws can be fashioned into intake outtake valves. I had a video but I cannot find it at this moment I'll try to come back and link I'm. Sure a new model can be fashioned for these printed masks ... Here's a link that has a home made valve in it somewhere
ruclips.net/video/QODJN3UHluA/видео.html
You should redesign the strap anchors to tri-glides or "ladder" slides. Allowing the strap to be adjusted without any additional hardware and without having to tie your elastic head-strap in a knot at each anchor point
Even being slightly porous before sanding and sealing, printed masks are sure a heck of a lot better than no protection at all.
If you have a hammer, is everything a nail? By all reason sewn cloth mask with a steel nose wire and a filter liner is a much better choice. Easier to breathe in, better fit, and loads more filter area. Even with 3d printing as a tool, it'll be better to explore the solution space, and potentially use 3D printed parts largely as reinforcements and attachments. Will also make for much quicker prints.
Don't forget the fact that the porous nature of the filament is hard to clean and has a lot of surface area to trap the cirus
Not sure that the leakage caused by microscopic holes is going to compare with the leakage of an standard N95 or P3 mask. The airflow is going to seek the path of least resistance, so an adequately sized vent is important to avoid air bypassing the filter and entering around the face.
The filters themselves rely on variety of techniques to capture particles (mesh-type, collision/sticking, electrostatic, etc.), they're actually pretty interesting!
Ditto on the Copper3D mask: printed one of them and was so appalled by the fit I abandoned any further work on it. Their "industry partners" are simply stockists for their filament 🤨
Great video, lots of excellent information 😊👍
Breathing out the same path that you breath in will make the filter moist, and quickly difficult to use. The Medical University of South Carolina (M.U.S.C.) S.A.F.E. Cartridge System has a check valve, much like a gas mask. No DIY design will be perfectly sealed. I think the point of the mask is to filter large particles of water vapor from the majority of inhaled air. It will be interesting to see whose design will prevent infection best in coming months.
You shouldn't care about few microne holes in 3d print unless you glue the mask to your face really well. Because a lot of air goes between the mask and skin.
I think there is a lot of confusion about what the mask is supposed to be able to do to be usefull. Replacing a respirator that protects the person who wears it in a contaminated environment is just as hard as you describe. You need to seal it to your face, only intake air through the filter and either dispose of it after short use or be able to sterilize it.
However there is another use for a mask and that is if I want to protect others from myself because I cannot know for sure if I am one of those asymptomatic virus carriers or not. To that end our government now requires everyone to wear some protection over nose and mouth outside your home. Everyone who can is sewing cotton masks for everyone who cannot. Everyone wears them, even all the TV hosts, government officials etc. Again, the point is to stop yourself from ejecting viral droplets onto other people directly and decrease how much you contaminate public surfaces around you. The 100% cotton cloth can then be sterilized in boiling water for a few minutes or in washing machine at 60°C or higher cycle and then used again.
For this second purpose I think a 3D printed mask can work. You just need to design it so that the filters can be replaced or sterilized and the mask itself can go through some sterilization. I am playing with some prototypes now and printed in PETG they can easily survive trip through 70°C dishwasher and a long dip in isopropylalkohol. So I think I can make it as good for myself and people around me as the cotton mask but more comfortable to wear because I wont have a damp cloth sticking to my mouth when breathing in.
Jiri Hebeda finally a great answer , the point mostly is to stop the cough with the mask, or minimize it , i agree with the fact that a 3d mask can be sand and filled , seal it and a good replaceable filter( hepa) not too many ppl know that hepa filters fight particles at 0.3 microns, even if virus and bacterias are at 0.1 micron level, anybody that have studied filters enough know that when particles reach 0.1 microns , things get weird and this bacterias and virus start crashing around with gasses and air particles make in it bounce, and actually way easier for filters to catch it, the real deal is particles in between 0.1 and 0.3 microns, those are the hardest one to catch, but hepa filters are the best for this job.
cotton is not a great filter for filtering corona viruses
@@freddykoopmans6985 No, not great, but much better than empty air, especially for larger droplets. Given the choice between those two options...
@@Deepmindsecret Coronavirus is approximately .002 microns in diameter. It will pass right through a hepa filter.
OU812 at that measurement of microns , particles are so weightless that they start zig zag crashing with air particles and gases , which is way easier for filters like hepa to catch them
this is amazing ! I've ordered all the right materials an im going to give manufacturing this a go !
this is NOT amazing. this is full shit !
Some people might be allergic to that kind of rubber seal, I once use it on my mask and wore it around 5 hours it grew blisters on my chin (I was walking and caused sweating on my face in that 5 hours) Great video,Like
Looks better than n95
3D printing is a great for a prototype now you could take your design and prepare the surface so that it is no longer porous. Then transfer it to a silicone mold, and from there use epoxy or two part plastic. At that point you could produce masks faster then you can print.
Great job on your video and great that you are making people aware of the porous layers.. to those starting out they might know the layer gaps compared to virus size.
Have you looked into resin based printers ?
Aubrey Jahier dont tell the secret of the sillicone :x haha im way ahead with the sillicone already, im happy if this can save lifes
Alberto Loredo I will keep quiet and wait and see... please show us if you have time ...👍
Aubrey Jahier i will , promise. also i have to say, there are plenty of fishes for everybody, i kinda felt scared since i spent a lot of time and money on this pipeline , but in the other hand, if more people can do the same we can save lifes, that has to be more important than money, but obviosly we all want to be rich, ill pick a midpoint.
Alberto Loredo yes I agree lives first, and then hopefully no good deed goes with out reward.
Aubrey Jahier im happy to know that im not selling this at crazy prices like the guys that i have seen in ecommerces, charging 50$ for masks not even sanded or filled with prime.
can you list all your materials you have used + the filters grade etc , please... it was just an excellent video
I recommend sealing the surface from the inside of the mask as well
You should ensure the inside of your mask is painted as well.... you need to be cleaning this mask in soap and water every day! You can get sick from build up of bacteria that originated from you!!!
There is another mask which does not require smoothing because it prints flat on the bed, and molds to your face(Some of you may know what I am talking about. That one can print in 3 hours. This is a good design, but for mass producing I feel like this one would take a long time to print, I am talking 5+ hours. Correct if I am wrong, I wouldn't want to make false assumptions.
Your audio is a bit strange, like you have a directional mic that is moving around your head :) Still a great video though.
@Conny Van den Bosch I was thinking the same.Maybe he thinks that we are infected?
You don't really have to sand/fill as this process adds very little to no benefit. Its true that there might be some gaps between layers, but you have to remember that the print is actually composed of several walls, if their is a gap on the first wall, its very unlikely that it will go through the second wall, and if it does, its even less probable that it goes through the third wall. You can simply test it by shining light through the print wall in a dark room, and see if any photons escape, you won't.
Ya it’s layers and layers stacked against or on top of each other. Even if one small layer is missed the next layer will smash or fill it in. Of course u still can’t compare the consistency or reliability to mass manufacturing or traditional making methods. But at times of shortage it’s definitely bette than nothing.
What about having the plastic material so close to your face, I have a big problem with the smell of printed parts from some pla, it gives me a headache.
Very informative thank you so much for the video! Guess 3D print respirator mask requires more high tech printer.
Why not use vacuum forming for the main body? It looks ideal for vacuum forming, and you can then use medically safe materials.
There is a lot of good information in this video. A friend of a friend emailed me the STL files of the mask that was not safe. I looked at it and know it was not safe and chose not to print it. This mask looks promising but right now I am looking into another mask. I really like the filler and painting idea and will incorporate that into the mask I am making now.
will you be so kind to share it ?
The 3D mask is specificially a Spit Mask as mentioned on their website. They already stated that it will not protect against airborne viruses.
Why not print the strap holders together with the mask, so you don't have to worry about the weakening of the glue?
3/10 good ideas but need some tweaks. Just use spray on undercoat paint first. Your Filter is comically small. Bigger screwed side filter with much greater filtering medium surface. Valve behind filter, and second for exhaled air...just like in every 3M half face mask. Just Streamline prototype...less parts, less ingredients, less complexity. And People will use It
Luki I am looking for a 3d printed valve - 2 parts plus the plastic flap - For use on N95 style or cloth masks. Yep you need 10x surface, plus the valve in all 3m masks lets the humid exhale out. thx
You could use Plumber's tape or gas tape to seal the threads instead of the gasget.
If you have both but don't trust your Rein printer to produce models this size you can also coat the mask in 2 layers of 3D printign resin inside and out and then harden that. This will also make the mask resistant to most desifectants.
Good idea just coat it and self cure it
You realize that if You paint the final result with primer paint layers, Top layer and then Gloss layers There will be no holes Boom Mind blown problem solved.
Needs an exhaust opening in the front with a self sealing cap.
wITHOUT OPENING YOU PROteCT OTHERS FROM YOU. Yet Opening is forbidden in contagious environments
@@ibrahimsued4906 you can put an N95 filter in the exhaust valve. I did it on mine its 2-way protection.
First, I liked your seal joke. Second, Is the filter holder plastic bits also treated for the holes that you were worried about in the plastic mask? Third, are those wholes big enough to let air pass through, it seems to me that they are not. Maybe you could do some sort of demonstration with a colored smoke or gas on an untreated face mask so we could see the difference. Thanks for the video.
Would it be an idea to make a groove around where you screw in the mask filters - fill the groove with silicone or acrylic sealant - so that the screw down part pushes tightly against the sealant (maybe print a thin washer so the screwing down doesn't tear the sealant). That way you do not need to make a separate rubber gasket.
Megabytes, is it also better to fill and paint internal side for smoothing and easy cleaning since the print 3d layers of such side collects bacterias outing from mouth ?
Thanks, I need this for painting - there are no respirators left to buy so I must make!
DO NOT use most vacuum bags as they may have fiberglass in them which is dangerous to breath in. Check with manufacturer of filter material you plan to use to ensure no fiberglass and that it's safe to use as filter media.
The notion that 3D printed masks will let aerosols pass through layer gaps and porosity is laughable. Unless you are only printing 1 perimeter or an inline seam, this is not an issue. Porosity must be measured against pressure. Your lungs are not anywhere near strong enough to cause air to pass through.
This is true, however, sanitizing this thing without a smooth surface will be a pain in the butt.
Problem is systematic, not to be solved by mkaing 3D printed masks that have hard time working, need to be processed by hand etc.
Unless you'd use tehcnology that is up to the task: Pa12 form SLS that is later sealed with something like Dreibond 6063 or Loctite 401.
You can also use SLA with biocompatible resin like XFab and Ds3000. Should be safe.
Another issue is outlet valve that is hard to do right. Masks with no valve wil not work properly as they'll have very high flow restircitons.
Also each of the above cost many times more to make than buying good quality halfmask like Secura 3100 (I've bought three for me and my employees yesterday, paid about 15 eur each)
How about the chemical compounds released from the mask during wearing? Material technology is important when it comes to safety.
PETG is food safe
you are surrounded by ABS and PLA...
@@countmalin70 Maybe he's talking more about the filler and the paint rather than the plastic itself
@@LRTOTAL what does every finished wall have on it?
@@arrgh- PLA is made from maize (American Corn)
I'm kind of surprised (not saying it is wrong) with the concern of virus penetrating the shell - lit looks to be about 2-3mm thick (so 5-8 shells) and to have penetration every shell would have to have a gap in about the same place to provide a path.
Awesome build man, I'm making some for me and my family as soon as I can. You're a lifesaver, do you have s donation page ?
Edit:did you put some Swiss cheese beside your microscope images 😂
How did it go for you so far?
@@History.Arcana dimensions for the filter portion were off on the first batch (mistake due to the printer model/software) so those failed and the only successful ones produced I gave to my father (who has a heart condition) and friend who works in a nursing home so overall poorly.
However that's due to my inexperience with printing, the fact I could produce a functional and decent emergency item is a testament to the creators tutorial and design.
One note to mention, this mask can not be worn by anyone with glasses so is useless to a massive amount of people unfortunately ...... great design, if you could re work to enable people who have to wear glasses this would be perfect :-)
How about using some filament like Filamet Copper and a kiln to sinter it, creating a solid copper mask?
3d printed m,aterial become very close to airtight if you increase the number of perimeters to 6 to 12. this increases the thickness of the shell that hold the infill.
This is amazing work, thank you for doing this. I might like to dip my toe in and make this with a resin printer. Can you tell me the dimensions (so I know if my resin printer is sized correctly to make the mask body)?
Thanks!! Making it in resin would also require much less post-production because the surface is less porous. The dimensions (in mm) are: X= 114.5 Y= 79.3 Z= 129.3. If it doesn't fit in your printer you could split it in half and then glue it together as long as the glue seals the surface.
@@megabyte4130 Perfect, thanks again.
I tried the copper 3d mask. It's terrible. It took me about an hour to make it somewhat fit my face but then it's still open because the folded pieces don't seal against each other
Thank you for this video! I am very involved in 3D printing and I get send these things a lot and every time I have to explain that 3D printing safety equipment is just not safe. Good video! And please make sure to merge your stereo audio into mono since the audio goes from left to right all the time. No problem on a phone or laptop but distracting on headphones or a proper audio setup. Thanks for the research!
Thanks as well for pointing that issue out, i didn't notice the audio error until it was too late. I'll make sure to improve in future videos.
there is some audio problem like i dont know what is happening it is really weird. i think the audio is reversed
so, i plan on getting 3-d printer, need to contact hospitals to ask what sort of equipment they need, then follow your design and do some more R+D, and create ppe and tools to protect workers
If you want to help rather start with prusa face shields. And you need to realiste one man will hardly change anything so start a local campaign, find more people with 3d printers, organise and so on
Thank you sir ... i will be using your model to give to healthcare workers ! Finally a professional one !! You rock !
but could you do that for the others he mentioned, sand. paint and add rubber seal?
im sure if you just increase the flowrate by 5-10% it would be fine and print the gasket and material on edges with TPU aswell :P-
just realsied u dont even need to sand - just spray thicker coats of clear laquer at the end !
Excellent video. Thank you for your efforts and information you provide. Have you considered using the printer to make a female mould. Then make a plaster/PVA male master from that and vacuum form that to make your final mask body in a thin acrylic? I appreciate you have problems getting resources at the moment.
DeWe I’m considering using a vacuum former to make a mask. I haven’t settled on a female or male mould. Would you please help me understand the pros and cons of either? Thank you in advance.
@@matthewsanders9015 I hadn't thought of making the mould female, but I think it may be easier, if you are making a vac former from scratch. Consider a female mould in plaster with a good amount of PVA in the mix to keep porosity down. Cast the plaster into a wooden box with the pattern supported into it and fill it to the top. The top edge of the box can have your seal on its top edge for the hot sheet to mate to. If you design the mask with one filter (probably easier, for the sake of production), make the suction input to the form in a place at the nose/mouth area and at the bottom of the mould. Orient the pattern top edge with respect to the plane of the non linear free edge of the final part to minimise the amount you have to cut off, and to make the thickness of the formed part as even as possible. I think the female mould will give a better surface finish on the inside of the vac, which will facilitate better cleaning. It may be an idea to make a one way exit valve on the mask for exhalation, rather than exhaling through the filters. This can be done with a short piece of cycle inner tube folded over at the end and sealed with puncture repair glue.It ends up like a short condom, is about 50mm long and has a small knife cut in it to let the air out. Inhaling causes it to collapse and seal. I may CAD a model of the vac former this morning. I will share it here. It will be in Fusion 360.
@ Dewe I have a much better understanding now. Thank you.
@@matthewsanders9015 Here are some images of some of the CAD I have been making. instagram.com/p/B-kp1RMn-nI/?
I used the CAD from the author of this RUclips video and modified it to make the model of the male I will use of cast the female plaster mould. I am printing the simple injection mould for the silicone seal now and will print the vac form pattern mould tomorrow. The rest of the parts for the input filter and valve and output valve will come later.
If you or anyone has any suggestions, please add them here.
would be enough to spray it with color spray...
by the way, the virus has no intend to seek holes, crawl through and fly further. They need to be sprayed by a sneeze or spit. And for that this mask would be enough. But you are right, a sewing machine will be the better choice of machine for this job.
Depends on the type of paint you used and how thick the layers are. But just adding a little bit of wood filler or even a high build body filler would help out a lot. Hope this information helps and stay safe
@MegaByte can you upload to another webside, cant make an account there to download.
Thanks for the file I printed the mask now printing filters cap ring and stamping tool
that mask was tested with h1n1. in fact, the cov-19 virus is larger by a few microns
Of course the active copper-based component is needed. (copper nanoparticles) and It is much better than a homemade cotton mask even without the active component..
the n95 mask is out of stock around the planet.
your mask is amazing but the holes for the filters are very small. a little bigger could help
I like the effort you put into this quality mask...
But I do think making simpler ones will help way more as masks are needed in masses by the hospitals and yours takes too long to build.
As a compromise between speed and quality, what do you think of masks that are printed from flexible filament and then bent? The single sheet should be faster to print and post process (by heat maybe?). Also it might provide an airtight seal at the borders.
Max-Ole von Waldow it would all depend on the surface finish.... CBC rubber is both non-porous and flexible, but degrades over time.... FDM rubber with layer-lines is a bacterial breeding ground, and is probably going to get you sick from not being able to clean it.... a hard mask is nice because you can clean it very easily! You may be onto something but re-usable, cleanable, and effective is what I believe some of the strengths of this model are. That being said, that foam seal needs to be replaced with silicone tubing.... that is the biggest flaw I see in this mask, otherwise this is the best mask I’ve seen yet in the 3D printed community!
Do you have any of these for sale? I am a critical care physician in need of a reusable mask.
you can seal it painting the surface with plastidip too
Would it work to cover the mask with a thick layer of epoxy to get it sealed ?
Yep, it should work, as long as the epoxy of your choice doesn't outgas dangerous chemicals to breath in, or it reacts negatively to the chemical compounds used to disinfect the surface.
Great design but unfortunately but the problem is that in many countries these types of surgical masks that you used to cut up to make the little filters are no longer available to the general public (if they were, we probably wouldn't need this), they've been commandeered by Governments for medical professional use only. Anything else recommended to use?, how about those 100% cotton makeup removing pads ladies use?, they're available everywhere...
I tried with those makeup pads in 100% cotton but it is difficult to breathe
Can you share the digital file for the printer if is possible, that way in can print my
Consider it is kind of wasting time to polish a PLA mask. PLA mask do fatigue fast with moisture, being daily washed, stretched and pulled. Even you polished the surface it may still crack will hurt anyone face with no mercy. Seems you are experienced 3d Print maker so you should know the fact. The crack looks like saw blade. So you better do it with TPU.
Can't you just coat the surface with non toxic glue a few times to seal the gaps?
Instead of an o-ring, could you apply some sort of non-curing sealant to the threads of the filter before installation? Something like petroleum jelly comes to mind.
So, the filter caps , strap holders, o-rings, and window seal don't have gaps that could retain particles?
Great presentation.. I was able to make one using the same techniques.
What about sealing it with liquid polyurethane and a brush like they do with other 3D prints? is it skin/lung safe?
Great video! my university is printing respirators, myself and a few people involved have raised concerns and tried to get help researching the safety of PLA respirator frames, but have been met with a resistance. They are very gung-ho and don't want any nay-sayers etc. I'm having trouble finding sources for how PLA can have holes and what size those holes are, you said they can be between 6-8 microns thick, do you have happen to have the source I can look at? Or did you somehow measure it with your microscope?
It's a great thing you're trying to raise concerns about the materials used and the process. I got the numbers from the documents that the ministries of health from countries like Chile and Argentina compiled. I decided to go with the lowest one they cited which was a porosity between 6 to 8 microns. With my microscope I was able to measure holes as big as 50 to 80 microns throughout the surface of the print.
@@megabyte4130 Thank you, I'll look into those!
@@megabyte4130 The holes are only an issue if you use one layer but most printed masks have many layers and the chances the holes in layers have gaps in the same place on every layer becomes astronomical. You will never have a 6-8 micron seal to the face anyway and this why this a 95% mask not 100%. If you still concerned with the gaps just over extrude a bit. The 3d printed mask will be much better than the n95 mask will ever hope to be. After hours of use of the throw a way mask the fabric/filter material will stretch and have a poor seal. The real risk on a mask like this is germs in the grooves but this can be over come by using antimicrobial filament and a germicidal bulb in a container to hold the mask.
@@stevegorkowski3246 I have read that antimicrobial filament is a scam. Im not sure about the specifics.
This is complete overkill. I just printed the Makermask (dot) com model @ 0.10mm on my Prusa i3 MK3 using PLA and once everything is put together, the entire mask is 100% airtight. To the point where if I exhale while covering the center valve, my cheeks inside the mask puff up.
Your process is fun, and a great way to make your mask pretty, but it is 100% unnecessary. And by the way, there are people who have their printer dialed down to be extremely precise. The deformations with your print can be addressed on the printer level so you don't have to do any post-process work. If you took the time to dial in your machine you wouldn't have to do all that work... But then again, maybe you enjoy it. But for everyone reading this comment. This process is not necessary. 100% overkill for a mask.
So... about 4 hours to print and 4 hours to sand and fill and paint getting the main mask made....
It doesn't say not too use their 3D printed file . when you click on that link it takes you to your printed 3D file so what's that all about
why not use a soldering iron on it then sand it .
Have you tried printing in ABS and using the acetone vapor method of smoothing the item? It might be closing all of the holes left by the FFF method.
And did you try using silicone tub seal to create a seal. print a channel and fill it with silicone. My BiPAP mask uses something similar to seal.
I think you need a one way exhaust valve as well to get rid of carbon dioxide buildup.
I printed that mask in TPU. Design is good but need adjustments. Nose is too narow on top and too high
Also distance between cheeks and nosse needs to be changed (added) it make holes there
I had your same problem. I solve using phon to soften and enlarge nose place
What about annealing prints ? would that close gaps ? PETG is good to disinfect ?
PETG is ok to disinfect
this may sound dumb, but couldn't you use plumbers tape on your screw threads or does that not work and play well with the plastics used?
I'm really really new to 3d printing. Just got an Anycubic Photo so I could print minis. Could a resin printer produce a mask like this?
Yep, as long as the resin you choose is medical grade. Some resins are famous for out-gassing and reacting with chemicals like IPA which are used to sterilize objects in hospitals so be careful.
Can you print this in rubber? Maybe it would fit some people more
I wonder if you would need to seal, prime and paint filter holders as well since they have the same fdm gaps as the mask