Shallow Well Pump Replacement // Easy DIY // Harbor Freight Special // Drummond 1HP Combo
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The pump on the good ol well finally died. It was cheaper to go ahead and replace it with another like model versus buying just the pump itself. This is a very easy DIY project for those who have a well, but paid someone else to put it in. If your pump fails, follow this quick video to see how easy it is to remove a hose and replace it onto a new one. Save yourself a little money.
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Just bought one of these to pressurize my irrigation. I also have just the pump for extracting from the pond. Thanks. Really informative.
I really enjoy mine. Fantastic little setup for a cheap price compared to others on the market. I use mine daily.
You did very well explaining all the steps. Thanks
Thanks Bob! I forgot to show that there is a small circle cover on the side of the tank that pulls off. That is where you connect your air hose to pressurize the tank. I just fill it with water and it works. Been pulling strong to water my flowers, garden, filled my pool, fill my chicken water, and apple trees.
You can also prime it from the top of the spigot. The plug is for people who have different setups in which you cant fill from the outlet.
Last two I setup here at this well, I filled from the spigot. It took a little more time but easier to me. Opened the spigot, or fill plug, fill it up until it starts to run back out, let it rip. Took about 5 seconds and it started sucking from the bottom perfectly.
@@squank252 it is a good fn pump for sure.
The rear of the tank has a sharader valve fitting where you're supposed to pressurize with air up to 23#.
Good to know. Figured there had to be a better way to properly pressurize it!
Adding some data to videos about this pump and tank combo: I've measured with a fluke clamp meter the inrush/max as 40A 120Vac.
Thanks
Put 23 psi air into your pressure tank you can use a bike pump if needed
Agreed. On the right end of the tank, there’s a cover that can be unscrewed. There’s your hookup point.
Its either a seized motor or broken capacitor
Yeah a lot of folks have mentioned capacitor. I did remove the rear end of it and expose the shaft. It was hot and difficult to turn by hand. With its age, I had no idea if it’d be worth looking more into. The replacement has been functioning great though. I do recommend this pump and tank combo for the price.
Well its better new than old@@squank252
Amazing booster
Yep
Can it be hard wired instead of using the cord
I’m sure it could if you don’t mind cutting the plug off and splicing together or removing the short cord from the box on the pump, then hardwiring directly there. I left the plug and just used outdoor grade boxes to have the ability to plug other things out there. (Lights, tools, etc)
23psi on the air tank that you have to fill up with air
Yes. There’s a plug on the side. Have to unscrew the cover. I just fill it with water and it seems to work just fine.
I have the same as the New Pump . The black box on top has a start capacitator you can replace when it goes bad . $10 . The bladder inside my tank went bad at 2 years old . To avoid burning out the motor and start capacitator unplug the pump , open the water valve and add air to the back of the tank . Black round plastic thing on the back on the tank unscrews showing a tire air valve . The pressure gage should drop to 20 psi . Close water valve . add air to 40 psi .I have to add air every two days .
I'm sure the bladder can be replaced but I'm too lazy to try it . Have fun ....
Yeah I agree. I could have probably taken this motor completely apart and replaced a bad bearing but for the cost I just assume to replace it. If I can get me a couple of years out of it then I’m happy. I put mine through plenty of good use.
Symptom like that means the us$5 capacitor is busted.
Could be. The original was given to me. I wasn’t sure what the wear was on it. It was loud and horrible sounding but it worked. Lasted a good while. I wanted a new one and found one on a good price. Plus it was fun and gave me something to do!
Does this have a check valve in the well or do you have to prime the pump every time?
It’s got a check valve. I’ve learned though with some of these pumps if you don’t use them regularly, they will still lose prime. I’ve never had an issue with mine though. It’s used about daily.
You may just need a new capacitor on the old pump
Not sure. It was given to me and to be honest I had no idea how old it was. It was fun to replace it.
We're I live there is no water however water pipe is about 200ft from my house is there any pump can suck the water from there in my home, I don't want to leave any pump on the road
Probably a transfer pump. This is for shallow wells. I’m sure it could be rigged up somehow but from what I’m understanding, you need a pump to pull water from a source 200ft away? You’d need something to keep it pressured to your house. Probably easier to pay or do it yourself to have a well dug at your house.
@@squank252 OK thanks
Hilll Cliff
I’m not sure what that means. Google gives me a very generic response about hills, and then cliffs. Either way, I appreciate your view. Be sure to share so that I can brew my coffee with liberal tears.
I think is your pressure switch. That's bad on your old pump cuz it's just humming not getting enough ground
I’m not sure honestly. It functions off of water pressure. If it was defective and electrical I feel like it would have continued to pump water around to repressurize. My new one has done the same thing on the gauge. Lowes sells them pretty cheap. Nothing to them. Just unscrew and screw the new one in. Not really a switch. My new pump, works great and the gauge has done the same thing. Just a cheap gauge I think.
Can you use flexibility pex instead of PVC?
Have to check the ratings I imagine. This is a schedule 40 piping for a higher pressure rating. It’s thicker walled compared to the regular pvc.
Also I’m not sure if the sun would eat it up over time or if it’s UV resistant.
How deep is this thing pulling ?? And what’s on the bottom of the 1” pipe that’s in the well casing
The actual hole is roughly 26’ deep from ground to tip of point. Is schedule 40 piping, the thicker pipe, inside couplings you can find in well sections of stores, and at the bottom is a slitted well point I got from Lowe’s.
Thanks
Welcome