You have alot of irons in the fire Jeff! It is cool to see you hit each project with gusto and grunts knowing every project will be better than new. The ultimate will be seeing the equipment running and making 💰! Hats off to the excavation king!
On the subject of the Roosa Master: There’s a piston in the fuel inlet before the blade transfer pump, the assembly threads out of the aluminum end cap with probably a 3/4” wrench. It is the transfer blade pump regulator, that could be stuck, and it’s simple to get to. If that is working then there’s a “vent wire” (wire in a passage restricting flow) in the head assembly to allow fluid and air to get into the housing where you take the lid with the return fitting off. This is probably plugged with rust or tar and if that’s the case it requires complete disassembly of the IP to get to it. You first have to get the entire pump full of fuel before the return fitting or “flex ring” can even be a suspected issue. That being said if you attempt to run it some more fill the area under the lid with fuel or oil or else head and rotor could seize or even shear. But check the inlet regulator piston, you can do it on the machine with 15 min of your time. Once you screw the 90* fitting out of it you’ll see an Allen head screw, count how many turns it takes to screw it out then there’s a spring underneath that and the piston. It’ll make sense to you when you have it apart. If that doesn’t get fuel coming out of the return then it’s time to pull the IP off the engine.
Jeff, hope you didn’t pay much over scrap price for that 9. Sounds like it’s been hacked pretty bad. I’d say it’s a good thing you are pulling the engine, no telling what else you’ll find. It will be expensive, but in the end you will have a machine that will outlive you and I both. Cat made those old machines to run forever.
Hahaha…! I was pretty excited when you mentioned “Zach”, of the RUclips channel The Zach Life. I stumbled across his channel some time back, and was just impressed with what he does, and has done. He explains stuff so even a caveman such as myself can understand. Jeff you are very intelligent and experienced, but gotta tell ya, I think “Zach” is operating on a genius level. This D9 rebuild/restore series, is and has been pretty awesome. Thank you sir.
Great work Jeff, a big job for one man but what I have seen of you, you have got it cut as you have the best tool of all, patience. O and Mr Griffey. Thanks for sharing your time and life with us all. Gerald Ingram. Feilding, New Zealand.
Diesel creek did an episode recently where a standyne pump had sat so long that the plungers in the cam ring were hung up internally.......wont pump fuel. They dont like sitting, area diesel service covered the rebuild in an episode.
Nothing was tight and bailing wire........those are some red flags. In 1980, my father who lived in outback Australia bought a new K100 cabover Kenworth. 2 years later, the Kenworth reps drove all the way out to his farm to ask why, his truck had the lowest warrantly claims (zero actually) of any Kenworth sold in the last 5 years. He said "because I spent two days tightening up all the f*&kin bolts on the chassis with a cheater bar". Attention to detail matters.
Don’t know if this is relative to the crane not running and the fuel injection pump, but here goes. The old 5.7 and 6.2 GM Diesels had a injection pump that looked similar to the one in the crane. On the 5.7 and 6.2 if one were to squeeze the fuel return line connected to check valve on the pump, the engine would shut down and not start. Likewise if the check valve glass ball spring loaded, was full of debree it would shut the engine down and not allow the pump to work. Simple fix was to remove the check valve from the pump fuel return line, hold it up to a light and if debree was seen, drill the ball out. That would allow the wearing material in the pump to pass threw the check valve to the return line without shutting the engine down. Of course that did not fix the pump but allowed you to drive the vehicle till you got the pump changed out. I use to carry spare, drilled out check valves in the truck. More than once I fixed cars on the side of the road broke down by simply changing the check valve. Again don’t know if this is relative to your problem. Worth a look.
There's also a check ball and screen in the inlet fitting on the transfer pump. Might be worth a look. Be very careful taking the pump apart. There is a special headed bolt holding the plunger cam ring in the housing. It looks like a Torx head, but it's not. Guy's have ground a torx bit to fit. Then they break the bolt head off and your done. Only way now to remove that bolt is to break apart the housing(case) and then remove what's left of the bolt. You can buy that special socket when you order your seal kit. Well worth what it cost. Plenty of video's online cleaning that pump. FYI, Carb/choke spray cleaner is the only thing I found to cut that diesel shellack sludge. It's way better than thinner and brake clean won't touch it. Have heard E85 gas will also but never tried it. TGP
I checked the screen and it was clean, surprisingly the inside didn't look bad at all. talked to Zach tonight and he gave me a idea involving gas..............hang on to your butts LOL
👌🏻 JEFF, I would like to see the undercarriage they took off that cat???? There had to be SOMETHING SPRUNG "BIG TIME" when seeing the (cobbling) that you are finding taking parts apart.... They must have threw it back together hoping to get some trade-in value or auction $$$$$ after you find all those bolts just run up, AND that cooling system disaster..... THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !!! 😍😍😍😍😍
I watch Zacklife also. He gets into some wierd stuff. Making his own stuff for those 100 year old oil wells. I'm surprised Matt from Diesel creek isn't blowing your dm box up. Lol 😅😅😅😅 And Mr Paydirt you'll step back and get it running. 💯
Thursday the 31st @ 5:29 PM JEFF, as l sit here and watch you pull this D-9 apart l think l’m amazed that you alone for the most part are taking this dozer hopefully. I’m amazed that you can do this with such a big piece of equipment. To know where everything goes and how to do it in order is just AMAZING to ME. Don’t quit until you die. Some day l would like to come to Black Foot & see your operation.
I bought a cat330 that had a bunch of badly varnished bio diesel and 5 gallons of brake clean worked magic. I had the same problem with a new Holland tractor and it worked on it as well.
Lifter bars is very Cat D7D, D8G, D9E 1950' 1960's. Made from extra heavy angle iron unequal legs. Doing repair Cat shop on dad's D7E used this lifting bar. All bolts with shoulder through material thickness.
The last time I messed with a Stanadyne pump when you put that cover on it you needed to use a thin blade against spring tension as you put the cover on then slip the blade out. It had something to do with the fuel shut off that was on the case tractor anyway, good luck.
John Deere makes an adjustable spreader bar for removing the spray boom system on a 4930 and installing the dry spreader box. Could be exactly what you need.
CAT's lifting beam has 3 adjustments on the center eye and the 2 ends in order to center and stabilize the load, plus a adjustable spreader bar on the back for twist. Several had said an "I" or "H" beam would be better because of less machining. Caldwell sells a BWC-10 and BWC-10W Beam Web Clamp that are rated at 22,400 #/. Page 206 in master PDF or page F.10. I'll send u the page. These would be adjustable and I would lean more toward an H, but it depends on what u can get. I'd still weld bars/squares on the top & bottom every 6-9" for safety in case the screw clamp was loose. Think about in, call Caldwell when your sitting down and maybe order 1 or see where u can see 1.
Hey don't get down it has been my experience that new stuff breaks as much as some of the old machines. With new equipment you argue with the dealer about who pays for repairs with old equipment you know who will pay for repairs and no arguing.
I would use an I-beam rather than channel (unless you put two channel back to back) A single channel will tend to bow sideways pretty easily. I'd give up and use the excavator to lift it out...assuming it's available.
Thanks for sharing I watch zacks channel great stuff love watching that’s awesome you guys got in touch with each other he done a great job on the motor home
That lifting tool looked like it may be a three piece unit. The two outside pieces through bolt to center plate. The center plate has the lift point to the crane. The outside pieces could be channel iron with a lot of adjustment holes to run clevis hooks to pass through all three plates. I'm trying to figure out if there could be a load leveler dabbed to not now under load like you're thinking of. And still function with relative ease.
Good morning Jeff, thank you for the video! Just a thought could you pressurise the fuel tank or maybe fit an in-line electric fuel pump??? Anyway take care and stay safe 👍😎🇬🇧.
Old boy told me years ago a rotary style pump like the Rosa would get nasty sitting and when u would go to start they would stick inside and shear the shaft....
Jeff u should use MMO marcel mystery oil to get the plungers unstuck to remove the rust crap use abit of CLR or Evaporust without water let it cook on there for abit and tgen drain it out and put fresh diesel in it mixed with MMO should help unstick tgem without pulling the whole frickin thing.out
that frame looks like 2 pieces of angle iron with a space between where the hooks swivel in the spave and the lift eye is a loop. where i work we have something similar to lift chlorine 2 ton containers with a fork lift. know its not the same but there you go
There’s a rubber flex ring in that pump that has probably failed. Once they fail they push all that crap right into the injectors. Literally a 10 dollar part that can cost you a lot of headache before it’s all said and done.
Caldwell still builds adjustable spreader beams out of back-to-back channel with spacers to separate them. You can build a spreader out of flat plate then split a pipe or tube to weld on and stiffen things up. Figure out what you want and we can calculate the rating per ASME BTH-1. That's easy if you have dimensions.
@Jpaydirt OK, tomorrow I'll see what size C-channel is needed to do a true lift beam w/single lift point on top. 6ft OAL and 10,000#. If you use a spreader instead, it wouldn't take much. I have a spreader at work that uses 4" sch 80 aluminum pipe which you cut to length then insert two ends which take the shackles to attach upper and lower rigging. I bet that 4" aluminum pipe is good for 60,000# payload with a 6ft spread. You just need a crane with enough hook height and a way to adjust the upper rigging length. Like use chain or a chain fall on one leg. With a fall, you can adjust while under load to level things. That would be nice. Score a nice Harrington chain fall or lever hoist off of ebay.
@Jpaydirt A 72" lift beam with 5,000# on each end - that is worst-case bending force on the beam. 5000# x 36in = 180,000 in-lbs. For a C8x13.75 the Section Modulus is 9.02in^3. Max bending stress = 180,000 in-lb ÷ (2 x 9.02in^3) = 10,000psi or 10ksi. Per ASME BTH-1 Category B, Service Class 0, you can take bending stress to 13.2ksi for A36 steel. A572 Gr50 steel would increase to 18.3ksi allowable. So, C8x13.75 A36 would be more than enough if you put it back-to-back, but you'll have some gap with a lifting lug sandwiched between. Pins could attach hooks with eyes as shown in your rigging photo. C-channel spacing is set to fit these hooks and whatever you have for a lift lug on top. Of course if you have two fixed lift lugs on top and use adjustable length rigging, your lift beam size can go way down. If the top and bottom lugs are all 6ft apart, the beam is just a spreader - a smaller pipe would work if the upper sling angles are reasonable.
@Jpaydirt Now imagine a steel plate maybe 1" x 12" x 96". Drill holes every 6" on both long edges so you can fit your 8-1/2t shackles. Split a steel pipe, square tube or place two channels on either side of the steel plate and weld up as stiffeners. This is what a rigging company might build for utmost adjustability and ease of fabrication. You can put your rigging anywhere you want, above and below the beam. You can use a chainfall or not. Such a beam is easier to pick level enough versus a single lift point beam.
5/8 T1 steel will do the trick,, Make a T 5x4, 4inch for the stretcher pre drill 1 inch holes in stretcher, weld 5 inch for cap, use D rings for lifts welded on top of 5 inch plate
Try tapping lightly on injector tube bolts at the head of injector pump while cranking. The jarring will sometimes unstick those plungers. The bolts shouldnt be damaged by light tapping. Has worked for me several times in my career.
Pity the old crane did not start. I hope you did not fart after a mouthful of that concoction you had in the pump, you could propel yourself into the next county !
Had a bosch ve pump doing the same thing.... blew it apart and cleaned tried to clean everything with solvent but that gummy shit is some nasty stuff.... I found brake cleaner worked pretty good for the real gummed up parts
if i am thinking right there is a bleed screw on the pump and all lines need to be blead at pump and injecters . I AM suppireds that it did not air lock. been there dune that. 40 years a go.
Personally I don't like lift beams with only a center bail on top - they aren't very stable. But I see why they use them. A triangle of rigging on top is always better.
Jeff - fix the crane - I mean....how hard can it be...you're gonna need it for more than the D9 anyway. #2. Would old R-Road track work for the "I - beam" just wondering? 👍
I was on a service call years ago to replace the driveline u joints on an old D6B, when I finished the installation I grabbed my grease gun to lube them the old gentleman that owned the tractor said not to grease them! He said that they will last 3000 hours if you grease them or 3000 hours if you don't !!!! so I did as he ask.
Helluva undertaking you got going here Jeff : you must surely have unlimited stock of commitment to solve really awkward ‘stuff’ ENJOY (i dó get a whole bunch of joie and inspiration from your ‘daftness’ and use it in my own head all the time to do what i do in figuring ‘solutions’ unto ‘impossible things’…so THANKS STACKS‼️)
You know Jeff with Cat building these for so long and their designers basically modifying old plans and modifying them that someone would have thought to incorporate all the specialist lifting bars etc into the machine so that when you dismantled it you would remove a section that could be utilised for the lift etc…. Does that make sense, then not such a big need for specialist tools, it’s all part of the machine……. Just a thought
The rear engine in a scraper is a power pack, radiator, engine and transmission come out as an assembly and the lifting hook is part of the pack, they should of done that with all their machines
Развлечения
You have alot of irons in the fire Jeff! It is cool to see you hit each project with gusto and grunts knowing every project will be better than new. The ultimate will be seeing the equipment running and making 💰! Hats off to the excavation king!
Zach is a VERY interesting guy...His knowledge & videos about oil wells are incredible, very enjoyable to watch & you always learn something new...👌
Our Deere engine lifting tool looks just like that pic. Ours is 2 pieces of 4” c-channel bolted back to back with about 1” spacers.
Got to watch that when those pumps get sticky they can be prone to stick full fuel too so it might start and go to the moon!
Thanks for the show Jeff
Looking forward too seeing the D9 back in action!
me too
All that work just to say “Jeff wins” when she’s all back together. Lol gonna be a slick old cat. And done up right.
On the subject of the Roosa Master: There’s a piston in the fuel inlet before the blade transfer pump, the assembly threads out of the aluminum end cap with probably a 3/4” wrench. It is the transfer blade pump regulator, that could be stuck, and it’s simple to get to. If that is working then there’s a “vent wire” (wire in a passage restricting flow) in the head assembly to allow fluid and air to get into the housing where you take the lid with the return fitting off. This is probably plugged with rust or tar and if that’s the case it requires complete disassembly of the IP to get to it. You first have to get the entire pump full of fuel before the return fitting or “flex ring” can even be a suspected issue. That being said if you attempt to run it some more fill the area under the lid with fuel or oil or else head and rotor could seize or even shear. But check the inlet regulator piston, you can do it on the machine with 15 min of your time. Once you screw the 90* fitting out of it you’ll see an Allen head screw, count how many turns it takes to screw it out then there’s a spring underneath that and the piston. It’ll make sense to you when you have it apart. If that doesn’t get fuel coming out of the return then it’s time to pull the IP off the engine.
Jeff, hope you didn’t pay much over scrap price for that 9. Sounds like it’s been hacked pretty bad. I’d say it’s a good thing you are pulling the engine, no telling what else you’ll find. It will be expensive, but in the end you will have a machine that will outlive you and I both. Cat made those old machines to run forever.
Hahaha…!
I was pretty excited when you mentioned “Zach”, of the RUclips channel The Zach Life. I stumbled across his channel some time back, and was just impressed with what he does, and has done. He explains stuff so even a caveman such as myself can understand. Jeff you are very intelligent and experienced, but gotta tell ya, I think “Zach” is operating on a genius level.
This D9 rebuild/restore series, is and has been pretty awesome.
Thank you sir.
We live in a beautiful state
Been watching your channel for years.........Love it big time!!......Appreciate all your efforts in making these videos!!.....Thanks!! 😀
Great work Jeff, a big job for one man but what I have seen of you, you have got it cut as you have the best tool of all, patience. O and Mr Griffey. Thanks for sharing your time and life with us all. Gerald Ingram. Feilding, New Zealand.
Wow, thanks!
Zach is a smart dude..like watching his stuff!
Nice work sir! Don’t get down!
Just another day - sometimes you’re the statue and sometimes you’re the pigeon.
Thanks for sharing with us
Rob
You bet
Diesel creek did an episode recently where a standyne pump had sat so long that the plungers in the cam ring were hung up internally.......wont pump fuel. They dont like sitting, area diesel service covered the rebuild in an episode.
Nothing was tight and bailing wire........those are some red flags. In 1980, my father who lived in outback Australia bought a new K100 cabover Kenworth. 2 years later, the Kenworth reps drove all the way out to his farm to ask why, his truck had the lowest warrantly claims (zero actually) of any Kenworth sold in the last 5 years. He said "because I spent two days tightening up all the f*&kin bolts on the chassis with a cheater bar". Attention to detail matters.
The Stanadyne addative is some good stuff for helping free up a pump.
Don’t know if this is relative to the crane not running and the fuel injection pump, but here goes. The old 5.7 and 6.2 GM Diesels had a injection pump that looked similar to the one in the crane. On the 5.7 and 6.2 if one were to squeeze the fuel return line connected to check valve on the pump, the engine would shut down and not start. Likewise if the check valve glass ball spring loaded, was full of debree it would shut the engine down and not allow the pump to work. Simple fix was to remove the check valve from the pump fuel return line, hold it up to a light and if debree was seen, drill the ball out. That would allow the wearing material in the pump to pass threw the check valve to the return line without shutting the engine down. Of course that did not fix the pump but allowed you to drive the vehicle till you got the pump changed out. I use to carry spare, drilled out check valves in the truck. More than once I fixed cars on the side of the road broke down by simply changing the check valve.
Again don’t know if this is relative to your problem. Worth a look.
There's also a check ball and screen in the inlet fitting on the transfer pump.
Might be worth a look. Be very careful taking the pump apart. There is a special headed bolt holding the plunger cam ring in the housing.
It looks like a Torx head, but it's not. Guy's have ground a torx bit to fit.
Then they break the bolt head off and your done. Only way now to remove that bolt is to break apart the housing(case) and then remove what's left of the bolt.
You can buy that special socket when you order your seal kit.
Well worth what it cost.
Plenty of video's online cleaning that pump.
FYI, Carb/choke spray cleaner is the only thing I found to cut that diesel shellack sludge. It's way better than thinner and brake clean won't touch it.
Have heard E85 gas will also but never tried it.
TGP
Area Diesel Service has an excellent video of Matt's (Diesel Creek) Injection pump complete service...
I checked the screen and it was clean, surprisingly the inside didn't look bad at all. talked to Zach tonight and he gave me a idea involving gas..............hang on to your butts LOL
@@Jpaydirt 5 gallons of gas and a road flare? 😇
Hot shot secret is the best for removing stiction in that pump it works
Another great video bro it's just a bugger it will not start even with you showing it plenty of love. Safe travels. Ken.
👌🏻 JEFF, I would like to see the undercarriage they took off that cat???? There had to be SOMETHING SPRUNG "BIG TIME" when seeing the (cobbling) that you are finding taking parts apart.... They must have threw it back together hoping to get some trade-in value or auction $$$$$ after you find all those bolts just run up, AND that cooling system disaster.....
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !!! 😍😍😍😍😍
I watch Zach every once in a while too. I think that pump is going to have to come off. It’s always something.
I watch Zacklife also. He gets into some wierd stuff. Making his own stuff for those 100 year old oil wells. I'm surprised Matt from Diesel creek isn't blowing your dm box up. Lol 😅😅😅😅
And Mr Paydirt you'll step back and get it running. 💯
Thursday the 31st @ 5:29 PM
JEFF, as l sit here and watch you pull this D-9 apart l think l’m amazed that you alone for the most part are taking this dozer hopefully. I’m amazed that you can do this with such a big piece of equipment. To know where everything goes and how to do it in order is just AMAZING to ME. Don’t quit until you die. Some day l would like to come to Black Foot & see your operation.
I'll keep the light on for you LOL Thanks for the compliment 👍
Go Jeff. You are one tough man!
Great video Jeff alway enjoy watching you work on your equipment. You'll get it figured out. Looking forward to your next video stay safe Jeff.
I bought a cat330 that had a bunch of badly varnished bio diesel and 5 gallons of brake clean worked magic. I had the same problem with a new Holland tractor and it worked on it as well.
Man i like that old chevy square body!
Lifter bars is very Cat D7D, D8G, D9E 1950' 1960's. Made from extra heavy angle iron unequal legs. Doing repair Cat shop on dad's D7E used this lifting bar. All bolts with shoulder through material thickness.
Send it to area diesel service, they seem to be the youtuber equipment channel guys rebuilder of choice.
👍👍 1603 power that’s cool we had on of those in a old cabover
The last time I messed with a Stanadyne pump when you put that cover on it you needed to use a thin blade against spring tension as you put the cover on then slip the blade out. It had something to do with the fuel shut off that was on the case tractor anyway, good luck.
John Deere makes an adjustable spreader bar for removing the spray boom system on a 4930 and installing the dry spreader box. Could be exactly what you need.
If those rusty u joints aren't loose, I'd grease them and run them. Those c type joints are very durable. I watch Zack, and he seems very intelligent.
Thank You for the video content Jeff.
Best Wishes.
Thanks for watching!
Frank knows how to work on those pumps!! Lol
CAT's lifting beam has 3 adjustments on the center eye and the 2 ends in order to center and stabilize the load, plus a adjustable spreader bar on the back for twist.
Several had said an "I" or "H" beam would be better because of less machining.
Caldwell sells a BWC-10 and BWC-10W Beam Web Clamp that are rated at 22,400 #/. Page 206 in master PDF or page F.10.
I'll send u the page. These would be adjustable and I would lean more toward an H, but it depends on what u can get.
I'd still weld bars/squares on the top & bottom every 6-9" for safety in case the screw clamp was loose.
Think about in, call Caldwell when your sitting down and maybe order 1 or see where u can see 1.
Hey don't get down it has been my experience that new stuff breaks as much as some of the old machines. With new equipment you argue with the dealer about who pays for repairs with old equipment you know who will pay for repairs and no arguing.
I would use an I-beam rather than channel (unless you put two channel back to back) A single channel will tend to bow sideways pretty easily.
I'd give up and use the excavator to lift it out...assuming it's available.
I'm sure that it's 2 pieces of channel, back to back with a row of holes. You just can't see that at a glance from a picture.
Zach is awesome
Galion loved their IH engines
Thanks for sharing I watch zacks channel great stuff love watching that’s awesome you guys got in touch with each other he done a great job on the motor home
That lifting tool looked like it may be a three piece unit. The two outside pieces through bolt to center plate. The center plate has the lift point to the crane. The outside pieces could be channel iron with a lot of adjustment holes to run clevis hooks to pass through all three plates.
I'm trying to figure out if there could be a load leveler dabbed to not now under load like you're thinking of. And still function with relative ease.
Good morning Jeff, thank you for the video! Just a thought could you pressurise the fuel tank or maybe fit an in-line electric fuel pump???
Anyway take care and stay safe 👍😎🇬🇧.
Oh man. You might want to think about carrying all of the parts into the shop ahead of winter. This might take awhile.
Looks like a Ram photographed from a distance
Old boy told me years ago a rotary style pump like the Rosa would get nasty sitting and when u would go to start they would stick inside and shear the shaft....
Jeff I think it was a good call to go through this cat front to back. Lots of strange this with loose bolts and etc.
Check the ball and spring under the strainer on the inlet to the pump had a b415 int and the ball was stuck
A D 282 international In a gallon crane . Would not have thought . Been long time since I've seen one
Jeff u should use MMO marcel mystery oil to get the plungers unstuck to remove the rust crap use abit of CLR or Evaporust without water let it cook on there for abit and tgen drain it out and put fresh diesel in it mixed with MMO should help unstick tgem without pulling the whole frickin thing.out
that frame looks like 2 pieces of angle iron with a space between where the hooks swivel in the spave and the lift eye is a loop. where i work we have something similar to lift chlorine 2 ton containers with a fork lift. know its not the same but there you go
There’s a rubber flex ring in that pump that has probably failed. Once they fail they push all that crap right into the injectors. Literally a 10 dollar part that can cost you a lot of headache before it’s all said and done.
See Diesel creek.. he had the same pump overhauled for an engine… he messed it up trying to strip it !! It had some plungers stuck …?
you could try calling somebody that has a big tow truck and have them pull the enigne out for you or hire a crane
Caldwell still builds adjustable spreader beams out of back-to-back channel with spacers to separate them. You can build a spreader out of flat plate then split a pipe or tube to weld on and stiffen things up. Figure out what you want and we can calculate the rating per ASME BTH-1. That's easy if you have dimensions.
Thank you, it's 72" long but I will need to lift farther back from center as the rear is heavier, total weight per the book is 8,500 lbs
@Jpaydirt OK, tomorrow I'll see what size C-channel is needed to do a true lift beam w/single lift point on top. 6ft OAL and 10,000#. If you use a spreader instead, it wouldn't take much. I have a spreader at work that uses 4" sch 80 aluminum pipe which you cut to length then insert two ends which take the shackles to attach upper and lower rigging. I bet that 4" aluminum pipe is good for 60,000# payload with a 6ft spread. You just need a crane with enough hook height and a way to adjust the upper rigging length. Like use chain or a chain fall on one leg. With a fall, you can adjust while under load to level things. That would be nice. Score a nice Harrington chain fall or lever hoist off of ebay.
@Jpaydirt A 72" lift beam with 5,000# on each end - that is worst-case bending force on the beam. 5000# x 36in = 180,000 in-lbs. For a C8x13.75 the Section Modulus is 9.02in^3. Max bending stress = 180,000 in-lb ÷ (2 x 9.02in^3) = 10,000psi or 10ksi. Per ASME BTH-1 Category B, Service Class 0, you can take bending stress to 13.2ksi for A36 steel. A572 Gr50 steel would increase to 18.3ksi allowable. So, C8x13.75 A36 would be more than enough if you put it back-to-back, but you'll have some gap with a lifting lug sandwiched between. Pins could attach hooks with eyes as shown in your rigging photo. C-channel spacing is set to fit these hooks and whatever you have for a lift lug on top. Of course if you have two fixed lift lugs on top and use adjustable length rigging, your lift beam size can go way down. If the top and bottom lugs are all 6ft apart, the beam is just a spreader - a smaller pipe would work if the upper sling angles are reasonable.
@Jpaydirt Now imagine a steel plate maybe 1" x 12" x 96". Drill holes every 6" on both long edges so you can fit your 8-1/2t shackles. Split a steel pipe, square tube or place two channels on either side of the steel plate and weld up as stiffeners. This is what a rigging company might build for utmost adjustability and ease of fabrication. You can put your rigging anywhere you want, above and below the beam. You can use a chainfall or not. Such a beam is easier to pick level enough versus a single lift point beam.
5/8 T1 steel will do the trick,, Make a T 5x4, 4inch for the stretcher pre drill 1 inch holes in stretcher, weld 5 inch for cap, use D rings for lifts welded on top of 5 inch plate
Jeff didn't win? Shucky darn........
Try tapping lightly on injector tube bolts at the head of injector pump while cranking. The jarring will sometimes unstick those plungers. The bolts shouldnt be damaged by light tapping. Has worked for me several times in my career.
I've beat the shit out of it LOL
So much for patience lol
Looked like i beam to me
Pity the old crane did not start. I hope you did not fart after a mouthful of that concoction you had in the pump, you could propel yourself into the next county !
Roosamaster governor rings known to deteriorate. Return check gets clogged no go! Good work jeff
.... yea I jumped the gun on that comment. ... the best videos are when your talking Jeff... good job!
Premature commentor LOL
Bummer
What about the Red Green consulting services
So MD dirt farmer just posted a video about those pumps might wanna check it out! I got one on a 350c dozer 3 cyl!
I've watched plenty of videos, I believe confidently I'm a certified RUclips Roosa Master, master technician LOL
Had a bosch ve pump doing the same thing.... blew it apart and cleaned tried to clean everything with solvent but that gummy shit is some nasty stuff.... I found brake cleaner worked pretty good for the real gummed up parts
if i am thinking right there is a bleed screw on the pump and all lines need to be blead at pump and injecters . I AM suppireds that it did not air lock. been there dune that. 40 years a go.
Personally I don't like lift beams with only a center bail on top - they aren't very stable. But I see why they use them. A triangle of rigging on top is always better.
Eres un crack 💪👍
Jeff - fix the crane - I mean....how hard can it be...you're gonna need it for more than the D9 anyway. #2. Would old R-Road track work for the "I - beam" just wondering? 👍
everyone says stay away from RR iron, wasn't meant to carry a load and stay stiff, hey! that sounds like me LOL
Right on
Is it easier to disassemble the engine and accessories or reassembling? Thanks Jeff
precupper w/ a stanadyne
It's amazing how things that were suppose to a minute, take forever and waste a bunch of your time.
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I was on a service call years ago to replace the driveline u joints on an old D6B, when I finished the installation I grabbed my grease gun to lube them the old gentleman that owned the tractor said not to grease them! He said that they will last 3000 hours if you grease them or 3000 hours if you don't !!!! so I did as he ask.
Must of had an alignment issue
Jeff
Look at Diesel Creek, he has the same problem with his Roosa Master pump.
Helluva undertaking you got going here Jeff : you must surely have unlimited stock of commitment to solve really awkward ‘stuff’
ENJOY
(i dó get a whole bunch of joie and inspiration from your ‘daftness’ and use it in my own head all the time to do what i do in figuring ‘solutions’ unto ‘impossible things’…so THANKS STACKS‼️)
Hi Jeff give the guys at area diesel service a call they work with lots of you tubers to help them out 👍
Thanks for the tip
Jeff will win!
that device is called a spreader bar
Hello from San Antonio, TEXAS! How is that 360 degree air swivel that I had sent you years ago working?
really well
looks like 8 or 10 inch c channel
You know Jeff with Cat building these for so long and their designers basically modifying old plans and modifying them that someone would have thought to incorporate all the specialist lifting bars etc into the machine so that when you dismantled it you would remove a section that could be utilised for the lift etc…. Does that make sense, then not such a big need for specialist tools, it’s all part of the machine……. Just a thought
The rear engine in a scraper is a power pack, radiator, engine and transmission come out as an assembly and the lifting hook is part of the pack, they should of done that with all their machines
Terex did I saw Roger change a v12 in 4 hours by himself it came out the side
just take the engine half way apart so you use your crane on the truck to take it out
I had the shaft break inside the pump before.
Don't say that
Find area diesel they can fix it
Why are all the nuts and bolts so loose?
I beam it what's suppose to be used
What was the name of Zacks channel
Thezachlife
#ThisEpisodeIsMrGriffyApproved
stove oil ,.cooking oil , or .
put evapo rust in there over night.
Your crane is a Farmall It needs glow plugs to start
You need a hot towel and a nap LOL
👊🏻
How many thank you cards do you send to engineers
if it was up to me those son's O boys would be the ones in the service manual showing you how to remove and re assemble
@ 2.40 it looks like R S J
RSJ?
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