Hey Aron and crew, thanks for the vid! When these piles go in, how level are they with each other? Do you find that the deck posts are cut to different lengths? The reason I ask is because I would like to build my house on these, and I want to know if the machine can level the tops with each other, or if there is fine-tuning to be done later? Keep up the great work!
@@openconceptconstruction6740 no they dont , they can be driven level if torque permits , or you can cut the tops using conventional cutting techniques.
I understand there are torque specs for this, How do you measure the torque specs, If any? I’m going to do my deck with this tech, just makes more sense.
I'm surprised that a 7' pile is sufficient for MN. I have read that the helix should be a min. of 3 diameters below frost line and even deeper as you go farther north. Have you encountered any issues with them?
Hey Chris! Great question! Frost in the twin cities only goes about 48" and I have no problem getting way below frost! I've been installing here for a few years now and never had an issue.
6x6 means 6x6 in metal fab, they don’t mill lumber at metal shops. For those who are thinking of doing this, locate and underground utilities and stay away from foundations atleast 5 ft otherwise you risk of damaging drainage and most importantly you disturb the ground the foundation is sitting on. I didn’t see a torque reading. When doing this record all your torque readings and compare them to the manufactures load specs, in this case without an engineer you would determine the live/dead load of the deck and torque them accordingly to the manufactures specs otherwise you risk a collapse or sinking. It’s also protects you from liability in the future if something were to happen. Still a newbie buddy. Pay someone to teach you for the first time and then go out and sell/ install them. Even pay an engineer to explain things to you.
mix concrete by hand??? wtf? seriously, have you not heard/used a concrete mixer, or, better yet, get a mini load of ready-mix in.... this seemed a long way to do things anyway. or better yet ruclips.net/video/THxB7tR63SA/видео.html but you also then 'box' the bottoms with timber in this demo, and have it sitting on/very near to the ground, 2 things with that: 1] timber sitting on ground soon deteriorates quickly, and, 2] rain seeping in on top of the boxing, great way to start rot. nah, sorry, this again, seemed a really long, expensive way to go with excavators, etc., etc.,
Great idea- these will save me a lot of time if I use these vs drilling holes and filling concrete around upright poles
Thanks a lot buddy. This is how I’ll do my gate posts.
super cool Aron!
Hey Aron and crew, thanks for the vid! When these piles go in, how level are they with each other? Do you find that the deck posts are cut to different lengths? The reason I ask is because I would like to build my house on these, and I want to know if the machine can level the tops with each other, or if there is fine-tuning to be done later? Keep up the great work!
They are much like concrete, you're gonna have to cut your posts to different lengths.
@@openconceptconstruction6740 no they dont , they can be driven level if torque permits , or you can cut the tops using conventional cutting techniques.
I understand there are torque specs for this, How do you measure the torque specs, If any? I’m going to do my deck with this tech, just makes more sense.
And your cost per pile?
I'm surprised that a 7' pile is sufficient for MN. I have read that the helix should be a min. of 3 diameters below frost line and even deeper as you go farther north. Have you encountered any issues with them?
Hey Chris! Great question!
Frost in the twin cities only goes about 48" and I have no problem getting way below frost!
I've been installing here for a few years now and never had an issue.
Do you have info on how to get these? I would like to use these in texas
I install these in Texas if your interested in a qoute
6x6 means 6x6 in metal fab, they don’t mill lumber at metal shops.
For those who are thinking of doing this, locate and underground utilities and stay away from foundations atleast 5 ft otherwise you risk of damaging drainage and most importantly you disturb the ground the foundation is sitting on.
I didn’t see a torque reading. When doing this record all your torque readings and compare them to the manufactures load specs, in this case without an engineer you would determine the live/dead load of the deck and torque them accordingly to the manufactures specs otherwise you risk a collapse or sinking. It’s also protects you from liability in the future if something were to happen.
Still a newbie buddy. Pay someone to teach you for the first time and then go out and sell/ install them. Even pay an engineer to explain things to you.
Sweet tattoos! I want some chinese characters on me too.
HA! Thanks!
誠實 means honest, nice tattoo!
@@zhilongli7064 Does it really?
mix concrete by hand??? wtf? seriously, have you not heard/used a concrete mixer, or, better yet, get a mini load of ready-mix in.... this seemed a long way to do things anyway. or better yet
ruclips.net/video/THxB7tR63SA/видео.html
but you also then 'box' the bottoms with timber in this demo, and have it sitting on/very near to the ground, 2 things with that: 1] timber sitting on ground soon deteriorates quickly, and, 2] rain seeping in on top of the boxing, great way to start rot. nah, sorry, this again, seemed a really long, expensive way to go with excavators, etc., etc.,
Concrete footings are stupid! Ahahah!