two suggestions: 1. Don't weld in one pass. weld a small area, then weld in a different area. This helps with both the distortion & oxididation issue. For thin sheet stainless, I do a bunch of tack welds (about an inch apart and then do a bunch of short pass of about 1/3" inch, moving to different areas so the temperature does not get excessively high leading to heavy oxidation or distortion. 2. You can use a cheaper gas like nitrogen as a shield gas on the back side. There is no active plasma on the back side so a semi-inert gas like nitrogen will work fine. I use nitrogen when its not possible to attach a block of copper or alum on the back side because of the shape, or no way to clamp it.
Thanks to Jim for the tank and the shout out. My old tank made of Stainless spackling pans exhibited the warping just as you described. Heatsinking makes it all work. Thanks for the tank , the shout out, and for sharing !
I Like this channel and subscribed. The previous vid was about the pontoon boat, where you showed us your boys. I wondered if you teach them already to do some shop work? I can tell you it's fun. My son is 14 now and I teached him the lathe and MIG welding. Also the correct and safe way to grind. Next week we are going to build a gamer desk for him and that will include some TIG welding. Boys grow into a man and I think a man should have the skills to fix stuff. Lots of people here in the Netherlands think I"m crazy and think he's to young for dangerous equipment, but I always say your never to old to learn and never to young to begin... As a heatsink I often use old heatsinks from frequency inverters, amplifiers and so on (I do electrical engineering as well), works great. Love Florida by the way, can"t wait to go there again, but first the China virus must be wiped out, then we are permitted to fly again. Keep up the good work.
That trough shape would be easy to back purge. Duct tape and some sheet metal. Of course the copper acts as a chill bar to help with the heat input. I believe purge would be more effective tho.
At your class at the bash you said on the older tig welders to leave the high freq.switch to continuous. Does that apply to all types of welding, even steel?
Can you not stick weld to avoid all those steps? Given you know how to weld ... no pon intended. Mig, Tig & stick have their own use given you have the knowledge.
Thanks for sharing Jim!
Thanks craig!
Great to see you back at home in your shop making videos. It’s been a long wait…
Been a bit, back to making vids....
Always good to learn from You.
two suggestions:
1. Don't weld in one pass. weld a small area, then weld in a different area. This helps with both the distortion & oxididation issue. For thin sheet stainless, I do a bunch of tack welds (about an inch apart and then do a bunch of short pass of about 1/3" inch, moving to different areas so the temperature does not get excessively high leading to heavy oxidation or distortion.
2. You can use a cheaper gas like nitrogen as a shield gas on the back side. There is no active plasma on the back side so a semi-inert gas like nitrogen will work fine. I use nitrogen when its not possible to attach a block of copper or alum on the back side because of the shape, or no way to clamp it.
Thanks to Jim for the tank and the shout out. My old tank made of Stainless spackling pans exhibited the warping just as you described. Heatsinking makes it all work. Thanks for the tank , the shout out, and for sharing !
Thanks Jim, learned something. Nice to have you back. Be well stay safe. Cheers
never been a welder but i understand the basics. now even more. thanks for the info.
Thanks, Jim. One of the easiest, most informative videos.
Thanks for checking us out!
Cooper definitely works amazing. Hard to get but worth it.
Would love to see a comparison of, copper bar, Solar Flux, Argon back purge.
Pretty good idea!
Thanks for the tip Jim !
good to see you again,,
Nicely done! All I know is bolted construction avoids distortion from welding. lol
That was real helpful, I have some large pieces of copper that will be set aside for this purpose
I have my stash too.
hello
I Like this channel and subscribed. The previous vid was about the pontoon boat, where you showed us your boys.
I wondered if you teach them already to do some shop work? I can tell you it's fun.
My son is 14 now and I teached him the lathe and MIG welding. Also the correct and safe way to grind.
Next week we are going to build a gamer desk for him and that will include some TIG welding.
Boys grow into a man and I think a man should have the skills to fix stuff.
Lots of people here in the Netherlands think I"m crazy and think he's to young for dangerous equipment, but I always say your never to old to learn and never to young to begin...
As a heatsink I often use old heatsinks from frequency inverters, amplifiers and so on (I do electrical engineering as well), works great.
Love Florida by the way, can"t wait to go there again, but first the China virus must be wiped out, then we are permitted to fly again.
Keep up the good work.
Enjoyed…tks for sharing/educating
Thanks Jim, another great lesson.
Thanks for hanging around!
Thanks Jim, more good tips. OK to use aluminum too
Yes
That trough shape would be easy to back purge. Duct tape and some sheet metal. Of course the copper acts as a chill bar to help with the heat input. I believe purge would be more effective tho.
I am learning from you
Yay, Another Great video and more helpful tips!
Hope Brett makes good use of it,
At your class at the bash you said on the older tig welders to leave the high freq.switch to continuous. Does that apply to all types of welding, even steel?
Can you not stick weld to avoid all those steps? Given you know how to weld ... no pon intended. Mig, Tig & stick have their own use given you have the knowledge.
Yes, with the proper rod (very expensive) you can stick weld stainless, that does nothing though, to protect the back side of the weld.
You very conveniently did not show your welds. :-/