Amateur electrical nooby here. Out of the last 25 videos I've watched on wiring, this one has been the most helpful! Thanks a ton for posting this! 🙏 👍👍
I have no clue about anything auto electrical. I'm starting my own catalogue of writing in a book about this and that and I can say that your video has helped make that list become more understandable. Thank you (I don't care how old the video is)
Very well taught Broomy. I'm an A Grade Electrician with data and security as well as Motor control and process control experience. I must say, for at least 9 out of 10 car builders, the answers you've given are exactly what I'd suggest. The only extras I'd offer are soldering the pins rather than crimping (but only if your soldering skills are good), copious quantities of heat shrink and re-useable cable ties with panel pins to secure to holes in the bodywork. All in all, I'd agree with you about people overcomplicating wiring for no real benefit. A further benefit of your recommendation for the Deutsch plugs is higher surface contact area reliability between the male and female during the plugging process.
I just started working with these Deutsch connectors and I really like them a lot. Even the cheaper aftermarket plugs seem to be miles better than the best weather pack connectors. Like stated in this video, once you have all the tools needed to do the job properly, it's really fast, easy and secure.
@@jeepnutscotty Well, once I touch bottom, I don't need any more! Even my 4'9" wife tells me to "stop hitting the donut!" After 47+ years of marriage, 'that' is not a problem either of us worry's about! 🤣
Welcome to any wiring elite nerds snobs who are having a screeching fit at their phone after seeing wires being twisted in a drill. Sit down and dry your eyes mate, and take comfort in knowing you’re still superior to rest of us ;) you can purchase the plugs and tools used in this video here mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors
I get your complaints with the fastin faston connectors (the generic white ones) but you can get the right size crimps for thinner (or thicker) cabling. If you're using the right size crimps and crimpers they're perfectly fine.
@@mrbumcraic5046 Yes it would in certain circumstances where you don't need a weather sealed connector under the dash or somewhere inside the vehicle. Correct size terminals and proper sized correct crimpers for the terminals would make a better termination than he demonstrated. If you don't have the correct size terminal because the wire is too small, you can strip back more sheathing and fold the wire on itself to create more surface area for the terminal to bite onto when it crimps. It was a great video that unfairly compared apples to oranges in my opinion. Deutsch are great but they get pricey in a heartbeat and they are not necessary in every application.
If the wire is too small for the crimp-connector to grip it properly, either solder the wire to the connector, or double the stripped wire back on itself to form a thicker crimping-wad for the connector's crimp-surfaces to grip onto.
@@montegb2951 Ummmmm actually I find that soldered joints work just fine in automotive applications; not sure why you would be concerned about them...?
@@montegb2951 You may get away with that (soldering) in automotive uses, but NEVER in aircraft. If you double back the wire or fold it over to double the wire count in the crimp on, you're golden. I go a step further and heat shrink the wire to the connector if room is available.
@@sferg9582 and why exactly do we NEVER solder wires in aircraft? I've heard multiple people say this with no explanation. From my career, I've seen crimped wires break inside the insulation at the back of connectors. It really comes down to correct application and knowing what techniques to use.
@@MrJtrot90 , soldered wire is more brittle, and can wick up the wire to before the support part of the crimp around the insulation. Hence with vibration it can crack and break. Time and a place for everything though.
I recently fitted a new wiring loom in my car, and it came with those cheaper connectors, which I thought were good. Now I know better. I originally wanted to watch a video on extending the wiring to make it neater, but I've watched this and learnt a lot more. Cheers.
For greater security at any wire crimp; strip extra insulation and fold over the end. It has to ball up if it slides and will not let go. I have done this for 40 years and never seen one pull out.
I'm not sure what you are referring to. Maybe you could clarify. For any of those connectors as long as you are using the proper wire and crimping tool, you should never have any problem with it pulling out.
i work with a well known custom canopy and service body manufacturer. i do wiring on daily basis for Utes.We never rely on clips. We do solder as it is most reliable method. I use long noze plier instead of side cutter.even fro 5 cores , 7 cores wires. the stripper has clips features too. i use them whenever required. so basically plier, stipper and a solder are enough for wiring. soldering tool is good investment instead of clips. for DIY i suggest also add tester screw driver. it will save ur time on finding wires and issues, blown fuses etc. .
The white generic ones comes in multiple sizes too, tbf. The white ones are used as OEM on bikes and cars for a reason, its called "good enough", and weather sealed connectors are not always worth using. That said, i like both options. Also a tip for the twisting of cables, when you are finished twisting if you apply heat with a heatgun on the loom, it would often not loosen too much when releasing from the chuck of the drill.
Its kinda fun to look at the reasonings why things are done as they are from the common folks perspective. I am a assembler who has built and in part designed large automation panels to small wire harnesses for vehicles to semicon industry. Twisting can be done to safe space. Usually its done to analog controls to make the magical magnisation stuff less fucky. The common flat connectors contacts are available in smaller sizes. Deutch connectors are good because of their environmental properties and superior crimp contacts and good built quality. -one scuffed tip is to strip the wire longer and fold the copper. NOT RECOMMENDED! but better than just crimping small wire to too larger contact. Thick insulation in wires is for better voltage/heat resistance and harsh environments. Cauge is just stupid american standard for conductor size, but almost all crimpable contacts use that so you have to deal with that. 11:55 the crimp you made is faulty. The holes in the contact are for inspection. You should see copper from that hole to make sure the wire is deep enough 14:50 and that's the built quality but the contacts wont be that loose. The contacts inself will suppourt each other, but its better that the contact housing takes the movement stress rather than the contacts in them selfs that's why you should use deutch or similar in vibrating and moving applications. Im too drunk to commantate furher frogive me and skip this comment thanks and bye.
Love the wire twisting with the drill. Got any tips on how to do that for a Y junction? Like running the loom down the chassis and then split off to left/right tail light?
This is one of the better videos out there. The fact that you use Deutsch Connectors is awesome. Quick question though...what's a solid way of tapping into an existing wire?
To splice an extra wire into an existing wire ? I use an open barrel crimp/splice. No option but to tape it up, as you won’t be able to use heat shrink obviously, but it’s a strong mechanical crimp, and with some decent tape it will be fine.
There’s clamps that you clamp them down to already existing wire don’t know what it’s called. I have several of them put up. Oh probably one of the two named above.
Really straightforward and informative, thanks. You had a bulkhead connector on your table that I was hoping you were going to get to. Which one do you prefer, as I am at the point of wiring my elite 2500 to my Subaru harness.
I was looking for a how to video on automotive wiring to make a better job of the accessories I have fitted to my car i.e. siren and PA. Great video and have subscribed to your channel. Its a pity the focusing go's out a bit trying to see the fine details on some of the techniques you used. Great advice thanks.
Good video . You should give the product description of the wire you are I using in the description. Another thing too is that the cheap Deutsche connectors are flimsy and flex . Pull apart too easily .
A quick tip you can double up the wire (conductor) size by stripping it twice the length and folding. Not recommended for everything but those cheap male and female push on crimps wouldn’t just pull out.
Some connectors and tools here mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors The wire strippers you should be able to find at any hardware/tools/auto store
Question: I used a heavier gauge wire to make a pigtail with the 2 pin connector on a vacuum switching valve…twisted it to the thinner wire on the harness, going to my ECU. Will that be ok? *1994 Toyota pickup, DLX *VSV’s were for the A/C idle up & the PAIR valve.
Great video. We must work on the same kind of stuff, high performance engines, standalones, etc. I agree with everything you said, except one point I don’t especially like about the Deutsch terminals versus some open barrel style crimp terminals is that they don’t offer the strain relief where the crimp portion of the terminal has two discrete areas it crimps. The first actually crimping onto the insulation and second crimping the just the conductor. Are you familiar with Molex brand mx150 connectors? They are a proper connector with rubber seals on both ends of the connector, a nice audible snap upon connection, have range of 1-20 wires, and even have two or maybe even three different terminals for different gauge wires so 1 connector can work for various gauge wire. They even have slots where you can slide in mounting tabs for those Christmas tree looking push in a hole deal to secure wires from sagging or whatever. About the same price for the most part. If you’ve ever worked on a later model Harley you’ve encountered them on the handlebar controls and under the fairing for almost everything. But yeah, the dt/dtm/dtp from Deutsch are great for almost everything. I use them for 80% of what I do. Anyway, have a good one and I’m bout to subscribe and check out your other videos!👍🏻
If you dont know which size of wire the right one is for the device, just use the thicker one. Use this cable for your whole project, the price really makes not much difference but you are on the safe side. And why twist? It makes all stiffer to go around corners like through the door hinges
dont quote me, but im sure wire current capacity is not measured by measuring the outside jacket. I believe its done by measuring 1 stand, then multiplying it by how ever many are in the bundle to get an overall diameter
Just a suggestion… When you’re shooting close-ups of the components you’re demonstrating do it in front of a solid color background without any high contrast, features, and the auto focus in your camera will focus on the parts you’re demonstrating rather than the background.
Can I rewire a 4pin to a 3 pin even though the wires are a different color from each other. For example running a 4pin pigtail connector wire fuel line to a 3pin pigtail connector wire harness that connects to alternator and distributor?
How latter on when you'll have to disconnect all the plugs again, you wouldn't mess them up? In OEM wiring all your connectors are different size, and it's barelly possible to mix them. While having just 3 different one.. that might bring some trouble when putting things back again.
A couple of comments. Wire insulation. - not all insulations are the same. Selecting a wire based on the thickness of the insulation is not necessarily the wisest thing to do. If you are running wires in the engine compartment or outside the cab of the vehicle I would suggest a cross linked polyethylene because it is far more durable to environmental conditions. And they do come in different thicknesses. (SXL, GXL, TXL) Some of the thinner wires just won't hold up. Twisting wires. - You need to be very careful with respect to which wires you twist together. The main reason for twisting wires together is not because it makes the wiring neater, but rather it has a function purpose. Twisting wires together helps reduce EM interference from other sources. So things like sensor wires, communication wires etc should be twisted together. But you definitely don't want to be twisting wires going to solenoids, relays, coils, or even power etc with sensor wires . That will likely cause problems. connectors/plugs. - First, ALWAYS use weather resistant connectors for anything outside the cab of the vehicle. And they always have applicable wire and insulation sizes. Those whitish connectors, at least the ones you have, are for 18-16 awg wires, not 20 awg. That's why it didn't hold when you crimped it to a 20 gauge wire. They always say what gauge they are for. Also when you are connecting to an ECU you would have to use the matching connector. You don't really have a choice. They are also not sealed so if you use those in any sort of application exposed to the weather they will corrode. Also, those little tabs will actually hold extremely well against pushout. The movement you showed is really irrelevant. It's not going to contribute to wire fatigue. The movement is simply because they are not sealed connectors. Those Packard Whether pack connectors are very good, so are the Deutch connectors. Again one thing to be careful about is the size of the insulation. As you can see there is a seal on the back side so if you are using very thick insulated wires you might have trouble getting several wires into the connector even if the gauge is correct. Always use the proper crimping tool for the connector. Each brand tends to have a unique crimping tool as you showed. Also, some connectors require you to push the wire through the connector first and then crimp on the pin and pull it back. Some require you to crimp the seal to the wire and pin at the same time. All your wiring harness should be then wrapped with some sort of secondary loom or covering. Especially if you are going through a bulkhead or firewall. And always secure everything.
This guy is clueless. its no different than rating the performance of a vehicle based on its color characteristics. I believe his overall philosophy is size matters...
I came here to also comment on EMI. It would've been wise to mention that wires like signals to COP or injectors shouldn't be twisted with sensors. Basicly the reverse idea of why ABS sensors are twisted.
Im new to wiring and stuff. Im installing 3 led kits all 12v. Gonna be using a 12 gauge wiring and hooking all of the kits to the single wiring into a 20 amp fuse tap. I did research and i shouldnt have to worry about my wire being too long right? Should I use a relay? Also cant i just connect all of my ground wire from my 3 led kits to the same ground wire or do they have to be separate for some reason?
LED don’t draw much current. Doubt you would even need 12ga wire and a 20A fuse. Yes, ground can be anywhere on the chassis. You don’t have to use a relay if it’s just on a switch to turn it on and off as your switch is a manual version of a relay anyway.
@@BroomysGarage yeah okay. Thanks for the reply man im terrified and nervous since i havent done this before. So i was gonna use a 16 gauge, havent measured the amperage of the 3 kits but i assume it wont even exceed 5 amps. I was gonna still just run em to a 10 amp fuse there wont be any issues doing that right?
@@BroomysGarage alright great thanks man. There wouldnt be any issue tapping into a higher amped fuse right? It wont melt my wires or bust my led kits?
hi can i use jumper lead cable to run from battery to switch panel in boat using a 30 amp breaker i cant afford to pay $30 a meter for each plus and neg lead
Great video mate, wiring nerds have a place too, no doubt you seen the shit people do out in the field, ive seen so called pros use normal pliers to crimp connectors and tell you she will be right. love the drill technique, not much difference to how they are twisted in a factory, as long as your not putting mechanical pressure on the copper your fine.
Thats not what he was saying. Its more the wiring nerds who choose to be pedantic and insufferable for their own ego boost. They would rather use a lot of energy to be specifically unhelpful for the benefit of no one even when they have the chance to help or educate someone and preventing the incorrect electrical work they hate so much
If you were creating a new harness from scratch. Would twisting wires for each component cause problems in an entire harness? I know there's concentric twisting but I don't quite understand because I seen straight and twisted wires ran in a factory harness.. I guess basically what I'm asking is when do you use twisting and straight runs?
OEM twisted pair are generally CAN communication lines between control modules/ OBD port and the "straight wires" are everything else . Concentric twisted harnesses are when the same applies for CAN lines but then the rest of the harness concentrically twists around the CAN lines in layers. These generally twist out from smallest cross-sectional area wire layers to the larger wire layers
@@nzuncovered1845Sure, you could for CrAS or CAS as the twisting of the pair is to minimize RF, or you could use a two/ three core sheilded wire. For Lambda sensors RF(I) wouldn't be as big of an issue as it is not sensitive communication transmission or a square wave trigger input.
Question related to vehicle wiring. I have several older Aprilia 125s. On these there are multiple places where a number of wires are joined. One example is in the short section of loom from the clocks. In this the ~12 earth wires (from each bulb, etc) are joined down to a single earth terminal on the connector, with a series of 2~3 > 1 joins. Second example is in the middle of the main loom there is a point where ~8 wires are joined together (these wires are the switched live) in a single join. Both these use U shaped crimped butt connectors. Both are prone to failure. What is the best way to do these kind of joins? On one bike I rewired it and used heat shrink solder butt connectors, to join multples into one (I added an extra layer of heat shrink to further support the joins, and these joins are within the main heat shrunk protected loom). Looking online I have been unable to find an "approved" way of doing such joins.
Try using a 12pin DT series weatherproof connector. All 12 earths into one half of the connector (male or female), then your single earth going to body/ ecu etc into the other half of the connector. loop (U loop) all terminals to each other. This will allow serviceability. If lighting components will be spending most of their life without removal you could use a simple bus bar connection with bootlace terminals would suffice.
@@FLYRTA Doubling the wires into the back of each terminal is possible. Generally times I am thinking of this the wires will almost never be pulled apart (for example, the clocks have 6 earth wires that all join together before the main connection to the loom). Bus bars worry me a touch as not found any readily available ones that could be easily insulated (a concern on a bike with water - plus when working on the bike with the bodywork off)
@@katywalker8322 the other option is to use open barrell crimps to step down the wires. Example: 4 wires into 1 outlet wire. Then you would only need a 3 pin connector which would save space and cost. Or 6 into 1, then a two pin connector. Make sure the open barrell crimp join ia perfect and then dual wall heat shrink insulated which should give it sufficient strain relief and weathertightness.
@@FLYRTA , that is my current solution. Works fine if just joining a few wires, but not sure if best practice. The original loom on one bike uses them. One place it joins quite a few wires, and it is a common failure point in the loom.
I'm about to have a crack at rewiring my 70s Aussie muscle car which have a pretty basic harness in them. Do you recommend any particular brand of wire that is good quality and on the thinner side as mentioned in your video.
I find rs-online have a very easy to use website, ship very quick and have very good pricing. I just filter by wire gauge and outside diameter and use hook up wire
You should have a key mounting point on your chassis where the earth strap from the battery and to the engine meet, and other critical earths also tie back to. A small item like this can just be earthed to the chassis at any location.
@@BroomysGarage "on your chassis where the earth strap from the battery and to the engine meet." The terminology is incorrect. That is not an "earth strap", it is a ground strap. An earth strap, or earth ground, is just like it's name says, it is grounded to the earth. In a vehicle everything grounds back to the battery. Typically critical systems such as your ECU will ground back as close to the battery as possible. This is to eliminate noise that is often present on the chassis as well as proven ground loops.
@@tchevrier How about if your battery is factory mounted in the trunk? My Mercedes has the battery in the trunk/boot and only has 1 main ground from the negative to the rear chassis rail, there is nothing else connected to that ground connection or even close to it, the ECU is in the engine bay and has its own grounds I believe. It runs great btw and seems to have good power to all electrics.
I have a 1980 Camaro v8 and I’m needing to fix some wires that a mouse chewed up. What gauge would be best for turn signals? Also is there a special automotive wire I need to get?
I couldn't tell you for sure what gauge wire to use, probably around 16 or 18 gauge but make sure you're using good copper wire, absolutely stay away from any sort of copper coated aluminum wire
This link is a good calculator to work out what wire to use in what situation. A 20 watt globe at 13.8 volts is about 1.5 amps. So using 13.8 volts and 1.5 amps www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html this calculator will show you what gauge wire you can use depending on how long the wire will be.
couldn't agree anymore with the garbage connectors and type of wire to use. attempted a wiring harness repair on my audi and those connectors would come off the wire with the tiniest amount of pressure!
Broomy please answer this, where can you buy the good quality plugs etc local? Super cheap, auto barn and all the usual candidates only sell Chinese junky butt connectors .
What is the advantage of twisting the wire ? I want to install led strobe lights on my truck for safety and wounder if there is any benefits to twisting the wire ?????
Amateur electrical nooby here. Out of the last 25 videos I've watched on wiring, this one has been the most helpful! Thanks a ton for posting this! 🙏 👍👍
I have no clue about anything auto electrical. I'm starting my own catalogue of writing in a book about this and that and I can say that your video has helped make that list become more understandable. Thank you (I don't care how old the video is)
Very well taught Broomy. I'm an A Grade Electrician with data and security as well as Motor control and process control experience. I must say, for at least 9 out of 10 car builders, the answers you've given are exactly what I'd suggest. The only extras I'd offer are soldering the pins rather than crimping (but only if your soldering skills are good), copious quantities of heat shrink and re-useable cable ties with panel pins to secure to holes in the bodywork. All in all, I'd agree with you about people overcomplicating wiring for no real benefit. A further benefit of your recommendation for the Deutsch plugs is higher surface contact area reliability between the male and female during the plugging process.
Careful when soldering terminals:
ruclips.net/video/E_m8xf3vfYE/видео.html
Dang I wish I had your skills. I guess life is short...but not THAT short. 😂 Forever a student. #alwayslearning 🔌⚡️💡👩🔧
I just started working with these Deutsch connectors and I really like them a lot. Even the cheaper aftermarket plugs seem to be miles better than the best weather pack connectors.
Like stated in this video, once you have all the tools needed to do the job properly, it's really fast, easy and secure.
You had me at “like a hotdog in a hallway”. Reminds me of a girl I once knew.
Maybe it was not 'the girl'? 🤣 I married an Asian woman and that's not an issue! 😍😆 Just sayin'.
🤣 maybe its just you thats “lacking” mate bahaha
@@jeepnutscotty Well, once I touch bottom, I don't need any more! Even my 4'9" wife tells me to "stop hitting the donut!" After 47+ years of marriage, 'that' is not a problem either of us worry's about! 🤣
Bwahaha!!! LMAO at this comment!!! Good one mate! 😆 🤣 😂 😹
It's not about the bottom, it's the girth
What a fantastic and informative video.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Welcome to any wiring elite nerds snobs who are having a screeching fit at their phone after seeing wires being twisted in a drill. Sit down and dry your eyes mate, and take comfort in knowing you’re still superior to rest of us ;) you can purchase the plugs and tools used in this video here mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors
100%, wiring nerds for some reason are real snobs.
If you have 2 or 3 wires. Why not? Perfectly acceptable.
You're not gonna make a concentric twisted bundle from a few wires.
I was yelling at you “just use your drill!”. Then you did bro.
😂😂😂😂
Worked on some computer gear once where someone had hand braided a 24 wire cable. Must have taken hours.
Great wrap up of basic wiring mate, useful info, thanks.
Great information and techniques. Really appreciate you taking the time to share
I 100% agree with your comment about wiring issues and Dyno Tuning. One of my favourite sayings is " just a tune" 😁
I get your complaints with the fastin faston connectors (the generic white ones) but you can get the right size crimps for thinner (or thicker) cabling. If you're using the right size crimps and crimpers they're perfectly fine.
True, however would it really be worth the minimal savings compared to the best options
@@mrbumcraic5046 Yes it would in certain circumstances where you don't need a weather sealed connector under the dash or somewhere inside the vehicle. Correct size terminals and proper sized correct crimpers for the terminals would make a better termination than he demonstrated. If you don't have the correct size terminal because the wire is too small, you can strip back more sheathing and fold the wire on itself to create more surface area for the terminal to bite onto when it crimps.
It was a great video that unfairly compared apples to oranges in my opinion. Deutsch are great but they get pricey in a heartbeat and they are not necessary in every application.
This video is amazing. Deserves so many more views and subs
Absolutely fantastic video....tool choices, basics on wires and connectors...awesome...subbed!
Looking towards watching more of your vids (#100)
If the wire is too small for the crimp-connector to grip it properly, either solder the wire to the connector, or double the stripped wire back on itself to form a thicker crimping-wad for the connector's crimp-surfaces to grip onto.
Never, ever, solder wiring in any type of high vibration setting like automotive.
@@montegb2951 Ummmmm actually I find that soldered joints work just fine in automotive applications; not sure why you would be concerned about them...?
@@montegb2951 You may get away with that (soldering) in automotive uses, but NEVER in aircraft. If you double back the wire or fold it over to double the wire count in the crimp on, you're golden. I go a step further and heat shrink the wire to the connector if room is available.
@@sferg9582 and why exactly do we NEVER solder wires in aircraft? I've heard multiple people say this with no explanation. From my career, I've seen crimped wires break inside the insulation at the back of connectors. It really comes down to correct application and knowing what techniques to use.
@@MrJtrot90 , soldered wire is more brittle, and can wick up the wire to before the support part of the crimp around the insulation. Hence with vibration it can crack and break. Time and a place for everything though.
I recently fitted a new wiring loom in my car, and it came with those cheaper connectors, which I thought were good. Now I know better. I originally wanted to watch a video on extending the wiring to make it neater, but I've watched this and learnt a lot more. Cheers.
Thank you for going over this.
For greater security at any wire crimp; strip extra insulation and fold over the end. It has to ball up if it slides and will not let go. I have done this for 40 years and never seen one pull out.
I'm not sure what you are referring to. Maybe you could clarify. For any of those connectors as long as you are using the proper wire and crimping tool, you should never have any problem with it pulling out.
woah i just started wiring these up and had never used a crimp before and just assumed that is how everybody did it! good to know!! thanks!
@@tchevrier he means fold the wire in half and stick it in for crimp connections for extra security. Imo just get the right size connector
Thanks for making this video. Its a little less scary now
i work with a well known custom canopy and service body manufacturer. i do wiring on daily basis for Utes.We never rely on clips. We do solder as it is most reliable method. I use long noze plier instead of side cutter.even fro 5 cores , 7 cores wires. the stripper has clips features too. i use them whenever required. so basically plier, stipper and a solder are enough for wiring. soldering tool is good investment instead of clips. for DIY i suggest also add tester screw driver. it will save ur time on finding wires and issues, blown fuses etc. .
The white generic ones comes in multiple sizes too, tbf. The white ones are used as OEM on bikes and cars for a reason, its called "good enough", and weather sealed connectors are not always worth using. That said, i like both options.
Also a tip for the twisting of cables, when you are finished twisting if you apply heat with a heatgun on the loom, it would often not loosen too much when releasing from the chuck of the drill.
“Like a hotdog down a hallway!!” 😂😂😂 great video by the way
Its kinda fun to look at the reasonings why things are done as they are from the common folks perspective. I am a assembler who has built and in part designed large automation panels to small wire harnesses for vehicles to semicon industry.
Twisting can be done to safe space. Usually its done to analog controls to make the magical magnisation stuff less fucky.
The common flat connectors contacts are available in smaller sizes. Deutch connectors are good because of their environmental properties and superior crimp contacts and good built quality.
-one scuffed tip is to strip the wire longer and fold the copper. NOT RECOMMENDED! but better than just crimping small wire to too larger contact.
Thick insulation in wires is for better voltage/heat resistance and harsh environments.
Cauge is just stupid american standard for conductor size, but almost all crimpable contacts use that so you have to deal with that.
11:55 the crimp you made is faulty. The holes in the contact are for inspection. You should see copper from that hole to make sure the wire is deep enough
14:50 and that's the built quality but the contacts wont be that loose. The contacts inself will suppourt each other, but its better that the contact housing takes the movement stress rather than the contacts in them selfs that's why you should use deutch or similar in vibrating and moving applications.
Im too drunk to commantate furher frogive me and skip this comment thanks and bye.
Excellent content
Holy hell this video was great! Thank you for sharing.
Great information, thanks 👍🙏
Love the wire twisting with the drill. Got any tips on how to do that for a Y junction? Like running the loom down the chassis and then split off to left/right tail light?
Thanks for taking the time to share.
Awesome video !
This is one of the better videos out there. The fact that you use Deutsch Connectors is awesome.
Quick question though...what's a solid way of tapping into an existing wire?
To splice an extra wire into an existing wire ? I use an open barrel crimp/splice. No option but to tape it up, as you won’t be able to use heat shrink obviously, but it’s a strong mechanical crimp, and with some decent tape it will be fine.
Cooper open U shaped crimps. You can get them in a pack of 500 for like $16 on eBay . I use a ratcheting crimper on mine .
There’s clamps that you clamp them down to already existing wire don’t know what it’s called. I have several of them put up. Oh probably one of the two named above.
I'm glad somebody finally come out with a better way instead of doing it the half ass way.
Here's another video deserving of two likes!
Having a twist in the wire helps with RFI. The magnetic field cancels..(srs systems)
Great, informative vid. Thanks for making.
great stuff, as I am torn on my mgb. So anderson connectors no go?
Really straightforward and informative, thanks. You had a bulkhead connector on your table that I was hoping you were going to get to. Which one do you prefer, as I am at the point of wiring my elite 2500 to my Subaru harness.
I was looking for a how to video on automotive wiring to make a better job of the accessories I have fitted to my car i.e. siren and PA. Great video and have subscribed to your channel.
Its a pity the focusing go's out a bit trying to see the fine details on some of the techniques you used.
Great advice thanks.
Good video . You should give the product description of the wire you are I using in the description.
Another thing too is that the cheap Deutsche connectors are flimsy and flex . Pull apart too easily .
A quick tip you can double up the wire (conductor) size by stripping it twice the length and folding. Not recommended for everything but those cheap male and female push on crimps wouldn’t just pull out.
If you want to use a large spade pin with 22 gage wire. Make the bare wire longer and wrap it around a tiny bit of bare 10 gauge wire.
Those are some great tips on wiring! Thank you! Do you have links to purchase the tools you were displaying and using?
Some connectors and tools here mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors
The wire strippers you should be able to find at any hardware/tools/auto store
I’m restoring a 1980 Camaro. I’m wanting to replace my wire for my engine bay. Is there a special wire to use in an engine bay?
Question:
I used a heavier gauge wire to make a pigtail with the 2 pin connector on a vacuum switching valve…twisted it to the thinner wire on the harness, going to my ECU.
Will that be ok?
*1994 Toyota pickup, DLX
*VSV’s were for the A/C idle up & the PAIR valve.
Royt Mate, Thanks for the vid. Interesting shop you have there, All metal construction ?
Thank you for this! It was great.
Awesome Broomy!!! Stoked to be here.
I love the supply of automotive liquids and fluids. Almost looks like a retail shop.
That's because he's sponsored
How much do you lose in length for the reduction in diameter? Looks super clean either way!
Great video. We must work on the same kind of stuff, high performance engines, standalones, etc. I agree with everything you said, except one point I don’t especially like about the Deutsch terminals versus some open barrel style crimp terminals is that they don’t offer the strain relief where the crimp portion of the terminal has two discrete areas it crimps. The first actually crimping onto the insulation and second crimping the just the conductor. Are you familiar with Molex brand mx150 connectors? They are a proper connector with rubber seals on both ends of the connector, a nice audible snap upon connection, have range of 1-20 wires, and even have two or maybe even three different terminals for different gauge wires so 1 connector can work for various gauge wire. They even have slots where you can slide in mounting tabs for those Christmas tree looking push in a hole deal to secure wires from sagging or whatever. About the same price for the most part. If you’ve ever worked on a later model Harley you’ve encountered them on the handlebar controls and under the fairing for almost everything. But yeah, the dt/dtm/dtp from Deutsch are great for almost everything. I use them for 80% of what I do.
Anyway, have a good one and I’m bout to subscribe and check out your other videos!👍🏻
I have a 97 mustang, when it's cold outside and I start it up the wipers come for a cycle. any idea what could fix that? everything else is great.
If you dont know which size of wire the right one is for the device, just use the thicker one. Use this cable for your whole project, the price really makes not much difference but you are on the safe side. And why twist? It makes all stiffer to go around corners like through the door hinges
dont quote me, but im sure wire current capacity is not measured by measuring the outside jacket. I believe its done by measuring 1 stand, then multiplying it by how ever many are in the bundle to get an overall diameter
We working in it bro..In NEW FLYER cables and wire harness division
for LED shall I use 12 awg? Shall connect tow led on relay one switch?
meanwhile; 10 other channels tell you to solder :-) twist and tape is the best, love that adhesive ingress between the strands
who says tape is the best?
@@tchevrier random DIY ones, the kind you look for when you want to see what your getting into and take it with a grain of salt
Great video!
Are the 3 different sized red handled pig tail crimpers available through any auto parts store? Where/ how did you get yours?
mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors/products/deutsch-install-tools
Do you need insertion and extraction tools to fit and remove pins from the deutsch connectors?
Thanks sir lesson
Just a suggestion… When you’re shooting close-ups of the components you’re demonstrating do it in front of a solid color background without any high contrast, features, and the auto focus in your camera will focus on the parts you’re demonstrating rather than the background.
Can I rewire a 4pin to a 3 pin even though the wires are a different color from each other. For example running a 4pin pigtail connector wire fuel line to a 3pin pigtail connector wire harness that connects to alternator and distributor?
I didn't know those automatic strippers were 25$! Figured they'd be like 80. I been stripping wires with a lighter and fingernail my whole life
can you back probe D connectors for diagnostic testing....seems like it would be hard
Yes no problems.
How latter on when you'll have to disconnect all the plugs again, you wouldn't mess them up? In OEM wiring all your connectors are different size, and it's barelly possible to mix them. While having just 3 different one.. that might bring some trouble when putting things back again.
A couple of comments.
Wire insulation. - not all insulations are the same. Selecting a wire based on the thickness of the insulation is not necessarily the wisest thing to do. If you are running wires in the engine compartment or outside the cab of the vehicle I would suggest a cross linked polyethylene because it is far more durable to environmental conditions. And they do come in different thicknesses. (SXL, GXL, TXL) Some of the thinner wires just won't hold up.
Twisting wires. - You need to be very careful with respect to which wires you twist together. The main reason for twisting wires together is not because it makes the wiring neater, but rather it has a function purpose. Twisting wires together helps reduce EM interference from other sources. So things like sensor wires, communication wires etc should be twisted together. But you definitely don't want to be twisting wires going to solenoids, relays, coils, or even power etc with sensor wires . That will likely cause problems.
connectors/plugs. - First, ALWAYS use weather resistant connectors for anything outside the cab of the vehicle. And they always have applicable wire and insulation sizes. Those whitish connectors, at least the ones you have, are for 18-16 awg wires, not 20 awg. That's why it didn't hold when you crimped it to a 20 gauge wire. They always say what gauge they are for. Also when you are connecting to an ECU you would have to use the matching connector. You don't really have a choice. They are also not sealed so if you use those in any sort of application exposed to the weather they will corrode. Also, those little tabs will actually hold extremely well against pushout. The movement you showed is really irrelevant. It's not going to contribute to wire fatigue. The movement is simply because they are not sealed connectors.
Those Packard Whether pack connectors are very good, so are the Deutch connectors. Again one thing to be careful about is the size of the insulation. As you can see there is a seal on the back side so if you are using very thick insulated wires you might have trouble getting several wires into the connector even if the gauge is correct. Always use the proper crimping tool for the connector. Each brand tends to have a unique crimping tool as you showed. Also, some connectors require you to push the wire through the connector first and then crimp on the pin and pull it back. Some require you to crimp the seal to the wire and pin at the same time.
All your wiring harness should be then wrapped with some sort of secondary loom or covering. Especially if you are going through a bulkhead or firewall. And always secure everything.
This guy is clueless. its no different than rating the performance of a vehicle based on its color characteristics. I believe his overall philosophy is size matters...
I came here to also comment on EMI. It would've been wise to mention that wires like signals to COP or injectors shouldn't be twisted with sensors. Basicly the reverse idea of why ABS sensors are twisted.
Did you forget to feed the magpies? I hear them calling.
You feed wild birds and they will never leave !
Great video where can I get that thinner wire from?
Most the wire here was sourced from au.rs-online.com/mobile/
What do you recommend for bulkhead connectors? Vid very helpful. Thanks
mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors/products/deutsch-hdp20-bulkhead-kits
i just want say THANKS
Im new to wiring and stuff. Im installing 3 led kits all 12v. Gonna be using a 12 gauge wiring and hooking all of the kits to the single wiring into a 20 amp fuse tap. I did research and i shouldnt have to worry about my wire being too long right? Should I use a relay? Also cant i just connect all of my ground wire from my 3 led kits to the same ground wire or do they have to be separate for some reason?
LED don’t draw much current. Doubt you would even need 12ga wire and a 20A fuse. Yes, ground can be anywhere on the chassis. You don’t have to use a relay if it’s just on a switch to turn it on and off as your switch is a manual version of a relay anyway.
@@BroomysGarage yeah okay. Thanks for the reply man im terrified and nervous since i havent done this before. So i was gonna use a 16 gauge, havent measured the amperage of the 3 kits but i assume it wont even exceed 5 amps. I was gonna still just run em to a 10 amp fuse there wont be any issues doing that right?
@Nodnarb69 should be fine. Just depends on how many watts they are as to the amps they need.
@@BroomysGarage alright great thanks man. There wouldnt be any issue tapping into a higher amped fuse right? It wont melt my wires or bust my led kits?
Man you are gr8
hi can i use jumper lead cable to run from battery to switch panel in boat using a 30 amp breaker i cant afford to pay $30 a meter for each plus and neg lead
Hey, good day. What size wire would you recommend for power and ground for IGN1A coils ?
Great video mate, wiring nerds have a place too, no doubt you seen the shit people do out in the field, ive seen so called pros use normal pliers to crimp connectors and tell you she will be right. love the drill technique, not much difference to how they are twisted in a factory, as long as your not putting mechanical pressure on the copper your fine.
Thats not what he was saying. Its more the wiring nerds who choose to be pedantic and insufferable for their own ego boost. They would rather use a lot of energy to be specifically unhelpful for the benefit of no one even when they have the chance to help or educate someone and preventing the incorrect electrical work they hate so much
Gold info
Cheers
If you were creating a new harness from scratch. Would twisting wires for each component cause problems in an entire harness? I know there's concentric twisting but I don't quite understand because I seen straight and twisted wires ran in a factory harness.. I guess basically what I'm asking is when do you use twisting and straight runs?
OEM twisted pair are generally CAN communication lines between control modules/ OBD port and the "straight wires" are everything else . Concentric twisted harnesses are when the same applies for CAN lines but then the rest of the harness concentrically twists around the CAN lines in layers. These generally twist out from smallest cross-sectional area wire layers to the larger wire layers
@@FLYRTA Great info. Would you twist say cam angle sensor wires or oxy sensor wires?
@@nzuncovered1845Sure, you could for CrAS or CAS as the twisting of the pair is to minimize RF, or you could use a two/ three core sheilded wire. For Lambda sensors RF(I) wouldn't be as big of an issue as it is not sensitive communication transmission or a square wave trigger input.
@@FLYRTA Thanks! Good to know
Informative 👍🏽
Question related to vehicle wiring.
I have several older Aprilia 125s. On these there are multiple places where a number of wires are joined.
One example is in the short section of loom from the clocks. In this the ~12 earth wires (from each bulb, etc) are joined down to a single earth terminal on the connector, with a series of 2~3 > 1 joins. Second example is in the middle of the main loom there is a point where ~8 wires are joined together (these wires are the switched live) in a single join. Both these use U shaped crimped butt connectors. Both are prone to failure.
What is the best way to do these kind of joins?
On one bike I rewired it and used heat shrink solder butt connectors, to join multples into one (I added an extra layer of heat shrink to further support the joins, and these joins are within the main heat shrunk protected loom).
Looking online I have been unable to find an "approved" way of doing such joins.
Try using a 12pin DT series weatherproof connector. All 12 earths into one half of the connector (male or female), then your single earth going to body/ ecu etc into the other half of the connector. loop (U loop) all terminals to each other. This will allow serviceability. If lighting components will be spending most of their life without removal you could use a simple bus bar connection with bootlace terminals would suffice.
@@FLYRTA Doubling the wires into the back of each terminal is possible. Generally times I am thinking of this the wires will almost never be pulled apart (for example, the clocks have 6 earth wires that all join together before the main connection to the loom).
Bus bars worry me a touch as not found any readily available ones that could be easily insulated (a concern on a bike with water - plus when working on the bike with the bodywork off)
@@katywalker8322 the other option is to use open barrell crimps to step down the wires. Example: 4 wires into 1 outlet wire. Then you would only need a 3 pin connector which would save space and cost.
Or 6 into 1, then a two pin connector.
Make sure the open barrell crimp join ia perfect and then dual wall heat shrink insulated which should give it sufficient strain relief and weathertightness.
@@FLYRTA , that is my current solution. Works fine if just joining a few wires, but not sure if best practice.
The original loom on one bike uses them. One place it joins quite a few wires, and it is a common failure point in the loom.
@@katywalker8322 maybe less wires per crimp would minimise that risk of fatigue?
I'm about to have a crack at rewiring my 70s Aussie muscle car which have a pretty basic harness in them. Do you recommend any particular brand of wire that is good quality and on the thinner side as mentioned in your video.
I find rs-online have a very easy to use website, ship very quick and have very good pricing. I just filter by wire gauge and outside diameter and use hook up wire
@@BroomysGarage Cheers mate and great video by the way
Hahahah I just bought jaycar wire with thick insulation should've watched this first.
Why not solder the crimp afterwards for the cheap ones?
Should we ground for a led in chassis or -ve terminal of battery 🔋? For a 3ampere 12v 36watt led strobe light? In car?
You should have a key mounting point on your chassis where the earth strap from the battery and to the engine meet, and other critical earths also tie back to. A small item like this can just be earthed to the chassis at any location.
@@BroomysGarage ok bro
@@BroomysGarage "on your chassis where the earth strap from the battery and to the engine meet."
The terminology is incorrect. That is not an "earth strap", it is a ground strap. An earth strap, or earth ground, is just like it's name says, it is grounded to the earth. In a vehicle everything grounds back to the battery. Typically critical systems such as your ECU will ground back as close to the battery as possible. This is to eliminate noise that is often present on the chassis as well as proven ground loops.
@@tchevrier How about if your battery is factory mounted in the trunk? My Mercedes has the battery in the trunk/boot and only has 1 main ground from the negative to the rear chassis rail, there is nothing else connected to that ground connection or even close to it, the ECU is in the engine bay and has its own grounds I believe. It runs great btw and seems to have good power to all electrics.
I have a 1980 Camaro v8 and I’m needing to fix some wires that a mouse chewed up. What gauge would be best for turn signals? Also is there a special automotive wire I need to get?
I couldn't tell you for sure what gauge wire to use, probably around 16 or 18 gauge but make sure you're using good copper wire, absolutely stay away from any sort of copper coated aluminum wire
This link is a good calculator to work out what wire to use in what situation. A 20 watt globe at 13.8 volts is about 1.5 amps. So using 13.8 volts and 1.5 amps www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html this calculator will show you what gauge wire you can use depending on how long the wire will be.
@@BroomysGarage shit i wish i knew that existed when i was wiring in stuff
Thanks sir
Hey mate. Where are you buying all your stuff. Not ya typical Repco parts.
The deutsch connectors and crimpers are on our online shop www.mrparts.com.au, the other crimpers can be had from most electronics stores.
Broomy's Garage cheers budoo
couldn't agree anymore with the garbage connectors and type of wire to use. attempted a wiring harness repair on my audi and those connectors would come off the wire with the tiniest amount of pressure!
Cool. I don't like twisting wires though. Seems unnecessary and can cause its own problems.
It’s necessary when it comes to reducing noise for important cables like CAN bus.
what's an ACU? Auto Control Unit?
amateur here - why do you twist the wires?
Double the stripped wire over on its self
Broomy please answer this, where can you buy the good quality plugs etc local?
Super cheap, auto barn and all the usual candidates only sell Chinese junky butt connectors .
mrpartscomau.myshopify.com/collections/electrical-connectors
I would solder those connectors onto the ends of those wires
No. Solder creates weaker joins.
@@dutchylt I keep hearing this from people I really trust to know what they are talking about, but I've never understood why you should avoid solder.
@@richardschofield2201 HPAcademy
What is the advantage of twisting the wire ? I want to install led strobe lights on my truck for safety and wounder if there is any benefits to twisting the wire ?????
Space and flexibility mainly as well as protection against RFI.
i use 16 gage whier
Mind what you say mate we are all over the world almost everywhere....dare you say solder thats blasphemy.....
Point five millimetres squared is veryyyyyyyyy different to point five square millimetres.
Stavros
Hmmm. Depends if you add the 'd' or not.
You write 0.5mm2 so I say it the same why I write it.
So Point five millimetres square (not squared)
you crimped an unisolated terminal with the isolated tip of the crimper !!!!!!!!!!! thats why it pulled appart!
The wire that is twisted could be to prevent capacitance.
Shameless Bowdens plug in the background.... 🤔
noooo
These thumbnails sure are getting annoying.
NEVER EVER PULL TWIST OR STRETCH WIRE IN ANY WAY !!!