Reminds me of a musician I used to know. He thought using pre-recorded loops was cheating, so started making his own using samples. He then thought that using samples was cheating, so recorded some real drums instead. After that he thought that programming drums was cheating, so went out and learned to play drums for real. Thing is, he didn't like the drumkit from the store so decided to make his own. After that he thought that using pre-made drum skins was cheating, so found a goat and skinned it. He thought that that was cheating too, so started a goat farm to grow some more from scratch. I haven’t heard much music from him lately, what with the goat farming and all.
WOAH!! DDF is it still you!? Your videos have always been quality, but you just went stratospheric with this one. Incredibly crisp through all the key areas. You absolutely smashed it today. Informative, funny, visually adaptive to highlight important facts, not too bloated with fluff. Absolutely stellar job mate. Personally I imagine these are a technology that will grow in the coming years and become integrated with sim racing gear as it gains popularity, and no doubt this video will have a hand in that. Thanks, much love xx
Ha yes, it's still me 👋 I didn't get my channel stolen or hire an editor! Thank you for the incredibly kind words, a lot of effort went into this one. Like I said in the video, originally I thought I'd knock this over in a couple of days but the sheer amount of trial and error that went into getting the SimHub profiles dialled in over the past weeks also gave me plenty of time to think about what I wanted to say, what footage to use and how to record it etc. My project folder ended up with 241 files worth 83GB eventually so definitely one of the biggest I've ever done 😅 seems to be worth it from what I can see so far though!
Oh wow 🤩 thank you very much! You didn't have to do that mate, although that's 20% of the budget for these shakers covered already ha, much appreciated. Glad they're working out for you 👍 just out of curiosity, which sims are you driving and which have you noticed the biggest improvement with?
I am now on the Simagic P1000 with the haptics and I have a Buttkicker as well... I had given up on finding useful information about tire loads and generally during corner exit.. (have only configured tire lock and some curbs) thank you so much for making this video. I am gonna try your profile, you are awesome
No worries at all, happy to be able to help and give something back to the community! These last few weeks have been painful going through endless tests and tweaking of settings 😅 but hopefully it's all worth it. Super keen to know what you think and if any of it is actually useful.
@@DDFRacer I am impressed that you put the time to play with the offered telemetry and create your own calculations. I haven't tested enough to offer you useful feedback, but thank you nonetheless, I have always hoped that a very experienced sim racing youtuber would give something like this to the community. Cheers!
I have 6 . 4 Buttkicker Gamer 2's and 2 Dayton Puks. Had 4 Dayton BST-1'S before and they didnt last. I swear by Buttkicker, yes they cost more but the frequency range is larger and they are practically indestructable. Two floor plates left and right with a transducer each. My heels rest on these (pedals are inverted). Two on either side of my bucket seat. One on break pedal. The other on the accelerator. Each one isolated from the other and chasis via rubber isolators. Simhub is amazing piece of software. Ive taken rubber car mats cut them down the middle. Stacksd them 4 layers thick and put them under the four corner of my rig. This prevents the vibration from travelling through the floor. Only thing that does blow and need replacing are the amplifiers. Ive had 2 pop in the last 4 years and had to replace them.
That's quite the set up 😎 it's still quite early for me as these are my first shakers, but I can definitely see the appeal of having something like yours now, with all of the isolation between signals and additional channels. Sounds awesome mate 👍
I've spent the last few weeks playing around in SimHub, recording footage, editing this video together and not actually doing _that_ much solid driving to be honest. Really looking forward to getting back to my regular livestreams and events now where I'll no doubt experience exactly what you're describing 😉
@@DDFRacer You’ll find that the haptics quickly fade into the background and just become a part of the experience. It goes from being a conscious que of what’s happening to something your mind automatically reacts to without needing to think about it. Occasionally when I forget to open sim hub I often drive a couple laps and wonder why I’m so bad and everything feels so numb and dead. Then I realize what’s wrong open sim hub and all of a sudden I’m in the car. Engine rumbling. Everything vibrating. Violent shocks through the chassis from curbs, and wheel slip. A 4 corner setup like mine cost me around $150 usd to put together. Four 30w puck style transducers, a 4x50w amp, some speaker wire and a couple red/white to 3.5mm adapters. Now you’ve got the first taste of haptics through just the pedals give a four corner budget set up like mine a try. It’s honestly a bigger difference than going from a G29 to a dd. I can only liken it to the difference between racing on a single screen and being in VR.
It's not at all cheap BUT have a look into the Smyth Research A16 Realiser. It can get complicated but the short story is, it 100% will accurately sim a 15.1.8 channel Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or 13.1 Auro-3D surround system inside a pair of headphones. It will also allow for an external subwoofer (or two) to be attached as well for realistic sub and infrasub frequencies (or if you'd prefer, you can hook up your haptic system instead of external subwoofers). It's not the gimmicky 7.1 surround sound headphones that Logitech or whoever push. This is a prosumer/professional device created by one of the founding members of DTS, James Smyth. I would be more than happy to walk you through it completely free of charge. I love your channel and want to see it pushed even further.
Having studied and gained a degree in Audio Engineering at university, I find this kind of technology absolutely fascinating so thanks for sharing, I hadn't heard of it before. I've had a look at the official website and wow, very impressive stuff and can only imagine how it would sound...but I think it will be remaining in my imagination for a while 😅 that's a very steep price tag indeed, especially converting to AUD and not including shipping or taxes, and completely out of my budget unfortunately. Even if it was, things like a replacement VR headset and CPU upgrade would take priority 👍 but a few years down the track, who knows.
I haven't even loaded it up yet, and I will already say thank you (plus it helps with YT). I already have the exact same amplifier and had my bass shakers on my pedals but got frustrated setting them up. You just gave me the kick start I need to try again. Thank you again. I paid a little less per puck and got a 4 pack of Dayton Audio 30W units (haven't used them enough to endorse them, but they are an experienced speaker manufacturer) . The other two are under my seat, but I don't have them hooked up yet. I guess they will give me butt cheek feedback as well! 😁 I am using Logitech G29 pedals with a TrueBrake mod and interface board. (I do highly recommend the True Brake mod. It feels just like my old manual disk brakes). I replaced my G29 wheel with a Cammus C5. There is NO comparison. If you can afford it, the Cammus is far superior. Wow what a difference. I can't imagine that a stronger wheel will make a difference.
I'm also looking at the cammus c5. At the moment I have a spring return t80 wheel and simsonn pedals. I think if I get this bass shaker setup $100, simsonn pro pedals $300 and cammus c5 $500 delivered. That should be as cheap and effective as you could want to get your driving to as good as it can be. So $900 Aussie dollars.
Glad I could give you the inspiration to get back on it mate 😁 took me a while and I almost gave up a few times but very glad I stuck with it, the end result is really nice. Hopefully my SimHub profiles can be of a little use to you 👍 As for Cammus, I haven't really had a great experience with them to be honest. Last year they offered to send me a wheel to review and hey, why not, might as well. Gave them my shipping details and personal information and...never heard anything back for a few months apart from starting to receive marketing and promo stuff from them which I didn't sign up for. Chased up about the wheel and was asked to be patient, that they're busy, working on it etc. Another few months, chased them up again and they said it had already been shipped and signed for on delivery but I definitely hadn't received anything at this end. Didn't exactly inspire me with confidence so I told them not to worry about it. I'm not doubting they're good wheels and do the trick, but the customer service side of things was definitely a bit sketchy and put me off.
@@DDFRacer I read that a lot, but so far I haven't had a problems to contact them for. There have been 2 software updates since I got mine. Their app update section is a little confusing, but manageable. I did have to pay a lot for shipping, but the unit is heavy. So far so good.
@@johnelectric933 happy for you mate 😁 if it's good and it works then that's what I like to hear. Haven't got anything against them and not out to badmouth anyone, just sharing a personal experience 👍
Have you tried to connect it to your PC using the Bluetooth and direct the output there? I was messing around- before I commit to anything- with a Bluetooth speaker I have with a good bass. I paired it with the PC and selected it as an output device. It worked. Technically, it should work with the amp too. That might saves you a cable and a usb port.
I thought about it briefly but decided against it for a few reasons, mostly due to the latency introduced by Bluetooth. It's not much but it's definitely enough to add a noticeable delay between the effect happening in-game and then being triggered on the shakers, particularly obvious for effects that switch on suddenly like a locked brake or ABS. I also run a few other devices over Bluetooth such as my keyboard/mouse, microphone and controller (for replay cameras etc) which are prone to the occasional dropout which isn't good when it comes to SimHub unfortunately, any devices disconnecting and reconnecting can cause system stutters and freezes which isn't exactly ideal mid-race. For what it's worth, saving a cable and USB port doesn't really make too much sense in my opinion as the amp is still connected to the power supply and wired in to the shakers anyway, but it's a good suggestion for someone who might be in a pinch 👍
It's honestly one of my favourite tshirts mate, the material you used is superb quality and such a good fit 😍 it's a crying shame it's only a one off and not available at a merch store somewhere.
Yeah, the Vibration issue was a killer for me. Sure, you can run them during the day, but then racing at nighttime will feel terrible. I live in a new apartment house in Germany, we are known for solid buildings in ger, but damn my neighbors heard them a lot.
I've had some other people mention in the comments that with enough insulating material under the rig (gym mats, car mats, HVAC material etc) then you can almost entirely eliminate the vibrations from transferring through the rig into the floor. That still doesn't eliminate the actual 'noise' that these shakers generate though so it's always going to be tricky in situations like yours unfortunately 😢 (also, I didn't know that Germany had a reputation for solid buildings 👍 thanks for teaching me something new today!)
You must avoid to send vibration to the rig. Use a bass shaker on your seat and mount the seat over four silent block. You can mount your pedals on silent block too. But you’ll get a bit of movement braking hard. Then put 8 rubber feet under the rig and place a rubber carpet on the floor. It works. ❤
You're welcome mate 👍 might as well get to the point nice and early so you can get on with the video instead of keeping you hanging around for ten minutes waiting to find out.
@@DDFRacer Gotta say, that little detail was the very thing that got an instant subscribe, got my watch time to 100%, AND got me to jump on aliX US and grab the goods! Looking forward to posting a trip report in a couple weeks!
Looks like you might have used an allen head when you should’ve used a torx head tool , you still might be able to get your bolts loose if you use a torx head tool. Try it , it will either work or it won’t. Couldn’t hurt at this point. 👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️
Too right, I didn't have the correct tools for the job 😅 but instead of borrowing them from someone, I decided to push on and cause some damage. All sorted now though, I took the pedals into my workplace and one of the technicians removed the bolts in about 5 seconds, just like that 👍 which goes to show the importance of having the right equipment.
Great video. Question should we go for the 40 ohm or the 80 ohm bass shakers ? Also do the bass shakers come with the cables connected as well as cables with the amp ? And lastly how did you attach the shakers to the brackets
These shakers I'm using are 4 Ohm 👍 and the cables are not included with the shakers or the amp so you'll have to get hold of those separately. Rangey sent them to me pre-assembled so I'm not sure if he needed to expose the copper on one end or add connectors on the other unfortunately. Same deal with the brackets too, these were pre-assembled, but from what he's told me the disc on the underside of the shaker unscrews and you can use a bolt with a few washers to attach it instead of the disc. Hope this helps!
I used JST-PH 2.0 connectors from amazon to join the cables, but it really isn't needed, solder or crimp them together would also be fine. there isn't a lot of cable from the factory
Sounds good, keen to know what you make of it! Just worth noting though that these profiles are made for ShakeIt Bass Shakers whereas the HF8 uses the ShakeIt Motors. Two different sections in SimHub so I can't guarantee it'll work without a bit of tweaking 😬
Hey Dan! Absolutely gorgeous video you got there! No doubt you visualized the bass shakers in the best way. And I was apparently starting to look into pedal haptics myself! One thing that eludes me right now is the mounting bracket. I need a 3D print just like that. Think you can help me with it? ^^
Hey Ricky, sorry for the double up comment but not sure if you've seen Rangey's response on my Discord server regarding the brackets? Hopefully you can figure out a solution 🤞
I did this mod. There's a pack with 2 channel amp for 60aud. Then I just 3d print the brackets. Awesome mod. But I got a question about these bass shakers on simhub... I've set TC, and wheel spin (rears only) to gas pedal And ABS, wheel lock to brake. But I've got inconsistency with the effects. so on AMS2 it will only use the 4 effects I've set. But in AC it will rumble like a PS4 controller to just about everything, yet give priority to the effects I've set. I really can't figure out why AC is pushing extra effects through that I don't even have enabled. Under calibration, there's a slider to actually enable what AC is currently doing, and it was slid all the way to the option that enables auto effects. But even after resetting calibration and sliding it all the way to the left (only use predefined effects) it still rumbles as I drive down the road. I can't say I dislike it tbh but I'd also like to disable it if I want
Hey Gregory, this is one of the issues that I noticed when creating my custom SimHub profiles, each sim outputs their values slightly differently and there's no universal scale. The forces generated also vary from car to car too, so an F1 car will be generating much more load and g forces than a touring car, for example. For some reason Assetto Corsa puts out more signal than AMS2 in general, RaceRoom is also guilty of this, so it's really difficult to create one profile that suits _all_ sims and handles the same unfortunately. The constant rumble you're experiencing is because the 'low level' in AC is equivalent to 'mid level' in AMS2, so it triggers much more easily.
hey, thank for taking the time to make = this video and provide instructions. noticed you had some sleeves and clips on cables coming from bass shaker...where those included or did purchase separately? if so can you share where to pick them up. in melbourne so can pick up locally,
Those were already pre-assembled by Rangey when he sent them to me so I can't help much there unfortunately 😉 I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍
Plenty of other people here in the comments have mentioned that they've been able to reduce the vibrations by putting their rig/frame on top of things like foam or gym mats. That'll definitely reduce the passive vibrations 👍 but unfortunately I don't think there's much of a way to reduce the actual noise itself because that's how these shakers are transmitting the information.
It'd need to be some pretty strong tape as these things are heaver than they look and I imagine the vibrations might shake them loose over time. Imagine your phone taped to the underside of a table but multiply the strength of the vibrations several factors, would that stay in place? You could give it a try but I'm not so sure it would be a good idea as you really need them secured well. As for the 4ch amp, this is something I would have to research and try first too 👍 so can't really provide much useful advice at this stage unfortunately.
@@DDFRacer thanks for the reply, I may take a chance and see how it goes. That VHB is pretty strong, used for ACM on skyscrapers; but maybe it's too strong and might rip the leather off the seat 😂
Having trouble with the iRacing profile. Feels like the shakers are going off at any small sign of wheel slippage. I'd rather them go off closer to the limit of traction. Any quick thoughts/tips on what settings I might be able to tinker this with?
iRacing was probably the trickiest sim to configure as it doesn't share the actual wheelslip data by default, instead SimHub has to interpret it and generate a value which isn't always entirely accurate. Also depends on which car you're driving too, even though I factored in some calculations to take into account the amount of load a car generates, it does vary between the different tyres of car for some reason. An easy way to dial it in to your preferences though would be to either reduce the Input Gain (although this may reduce the overall strength of the effects in general) or perhaps a better way would be reduce the Gamma Factor so that it takes longer to ramp up to maximum. You'll need to make these changes to the Sway, Surge and Slip calculations within the Shakers profile in SimHub, although I'd strongly recommend recording some replay data of your preferred car first so you can adjust it in real time without having to drive a few laps, tweak, drive a few more laps etc.
Currently researching for a first sim build - Why are the bass shakers different from haptic feedback from small motors like the simagic haptic motors or even the smaller motors you mentioned that are on your Fanatec pedals? is it just more cost effective and a different approach to get a similar/better end result?
The default Fanatec motors are essentially the same as the vibration motor in your phone. It's either on/off and only at one particular speed, it also takes a little time to gather speed due to the intertia involved in getting the shaft with the offset weight rotating. These shakers aren't a rotating motor though, they're effectively a little speaker and generate vibrations by playing back sound frequencies, specifically bass frequencies. They have a much quicker response time (important when things happen in milliseconds whilst driving) and can also be tuned to play back different frequencies and volumes. For example, the more grip loss I have, the more I've tuned SimHub to lower the frequency and increase the volume which makes for a very nice progressive feeling instead of just on/off. Can't speak for the Simagic ones though as I've never used them, sorry about that!
Ah bugger, that's a shame! I just had a quick look and this seems like the same thing so _should_ do the trick hopefully: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003181384420.html
What I'm curious to know is how might the feeling of this setup compare to a real-life racing car. I'm no expert, but I believe you can feel clutch biting point, ABS activation and possibly brake lock through the pedals of a real car. But what about wheel traction under acceleration and other driving characteristics? Can they be 'felt' through the feet (or by other senses) when racing in a real-life?
Racecars usually have stiff suspensions and no dampening stuff installed for comfy. They vibrate af once the tyres are scrubbing and basically the hole bottom.
From my research making these profiles, there's basically two ways you can approach this: immersion or information. I saw a lot of other people running effects like road feel, bumps, impacts etc which would probably be great for getting a sense of physically being in a car and feeling the road underneath you... but in terms of actual useful information that helps you drive faster? Not so much. That's why I focused on wheel slip and load 👍 and will be the first to admit it's probably nothing like what it would feel like in reality, but it's incredibly useful to get a sense of how the car is reacting. Without the g forces that real drivers experience all of this is a bit moot anyway I suppose 😅
Whether or not you can get it to mimic IRL feedback, your rig will come alive and will feel numb without it. It's worth diving into, even if you're a little skeptical about it. Play around with the values and shaker placement to find what works for you. Even adding one under the seat will change your experience for the better.
Good to know 👍 I don't have a PS5 but a few other people in the comments have also mentioned this too. It's pretty cool that SimHub can receive data from another source on the same network and make these shakers GT7 compatible.
Yes...but not really. Trueforce uses some physics data to generate additional FFB through the steering wheel, whereas these bass shakers can be mounted _anywhere_ (in my example, pedals, but plenty of people mount them under their seat also) and also can be completely configured through SimHub to your own personal preference, not what Logitech decide. Also these are useful for anyone that doesn't have a Logitech wheel 😉
Yours are much louder than mine--and yours sound much more metallic. Probably because yours are cantilevered. Mine are pretty much bolted to the back of the pedal.
I have to admit, for the purposes of recording some useful footage where you can actually hear the shakers, I cranked them all the way up to exaggerate the effect for the video 😅 I can guarantee you they're definitely not that loud/rattley for regular use, they're much more of a low rumble. It's quite hard for my mic to pick that up though and it's hard to convey those bass frequencies without having the shakers physically in the room with you. I'm looking at a better mounting solution for the future though 👍 but the manufacturer doesn't recommend using the shakers in a vertical position so it'll be tricky.
Looking at your links for the bass shakers for my petals I see they're Ali Express. The very first time I tried to buy something on Ali Express it was a scam. Fool me once...
Sorry to hear you had that experience mate, can't blame you for being cautious! I'm sure you could get something similar from Amazon perhaps but yeah, I personally haven't had any issues with AliExpress and have ordered quite a few things from there now 👍
Good question, and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't know the specific wires that Rangey included when he sent me all of this gear. I'll find out and let you know though 👍
One thing. How you have attached them is not very convenient. They move up and down now. You want it attached vertically so it's pushing forward and backward. Pushing against your foot.
When Rangey sent me these shakers, he'd already pre-attached them to the brackets in that configuration...but for good reason 👍 according to the manufacturer it's not recommended to use them in a vertical position and they strongly suggest using them horizontally. I also noticed there's not much space around the back of my pedals to mount these shakers without interfering with the springs and hinges when the pedals are fully depressed, particularly the accelerator, and this offset gives me enough room to avoid that. I'm sure there's a more graceful and efficient mounting solution, but for a couple of dollars this isn't too bad at all 😉
That can be the case sometimes 😅 but with these shakers it was more like a hundred (Australian) dollars and several tenths to a second per lap in my case. Not all gains are measured in laptime though, these really help out with finding (and staying within) the limit of grip which makes you more consistent and saves your tyres too.
I have the Sim3D motors but I can’t seem to dial them in, they don’t give me any useful information. I really can’t be bothered to spend weeks dialling them in, I wasn’t a plug and play product.
I'm not familiar with those motors so not entirely sure if you can connect them up to the SimHub software but if you can, it might be worth giving my profiles a try to see if you like them 👍 download links in the video description. This area of sim racing is still relatively new/unknown so there aren't really any 'off-the-shelf' solutions unfortunately and there's definitely some time investment needed to get them dialled in to your preferences, something that put me off shakers for a long time too. If Rangey hadn't insisted then I probably still wouldn't be using them, but I'm very glad I stuck with it.
I did mention this briefly at the end of the video, about how the quality and lifespan of the components is a big unknown, so this is good information, although maybe not what I wanted to hear 😬 were you running them at full volume for long periods of time maybe?
@@DDFRacer hi, not full volume because their vibration on pedals is very high. I use every day for about 2 hours. The problem is that the thin metal membrane breaks
Not quite sure what you're referring to there mate 🤔 where is the monthly fee? The SimHub license (which is optional) is a one time purchase and then the components needed for the shakers are also a one time purchase. My profiles and settings are also free to download 👍
Beg to differ on that one mate 😅 I've got the shakers dialled in to provide more information on grip loss, wheel lockups and so on which directly affects my ability to drive the car and let me know when I'm pushing too hard. I've found lap time, consistency and improved tyre life thanks to these.
hey mate, tomorrow i will pickup whole sim rig with CLS DD 8nm, cls lc pedals, bass shakers, aluminium rig with seat from audi sq5, 32 inch monitor, for 900e. i think thats great deal? its 1 year old.. but im interested in those bass shakers, i have never heard about those lol... Soo your v3 pedale have vibrations, do you think bass shakers are better or worse vs that vibrations(rummble)?
Sounds like a good deal to me if you're getting the whole package and it works 😎 nice one mate! The V3 pedal vibrations are pretty weak to be honest, hardly noticeable, and also either just on/off and not too customisable. These shakers are *much* more powerful, but also variable to can ramp up/get softer depending on what's happening and can also be completely customised to your preferences (which effects you want to feel) in SimHub. Night and day.
One really, really important thing about haptics is how you install them. They need to be really solid in their mounting, there should be no vibration or rattles. And everything on the sim rig needs to be tight. But, they are a game changer. I rate them more important to me than my SFX-100 motion platform. Also, mounting your rig on vibration isolating feet made for HVAC machinery will not only drastically reduce the noise but also make them more effective.
Absolutely agree 👍 it makes a big difference! I made sure everything was nice and secure, all bolts tight as tight as they reasonably could be etc. The clips of the shakers in action throughout the course of the video are probably a bit exaggerated to be honest but I had to crank them all the way up so my camera/mic would actually pick something up 😉 will definitely be looking into the isolation you mentioned though!
@@DDFRacer Well worth the few extra quid. I'm on the ground floor so don't have to worry about anyone underneath me. But I'm able to run my 100W haptics at 80% at 2am and not disturb anyone in the room next to me. Less energy going into shaking the room = more shaking the rig!
Thanks for the kind words 😎 much appreciated! I'm using a Sony ZV-1 as my main camera and my phone as a backup for the secondary shots in a few places, they're normally more than enough to get me through my live streams but can fall a little short when it comes to making these style videos. The camera itself is pretty decent though by all accounts so it could well be my capture card that's the issue 🤔 will have a look into that and see what I can do as a top of the range studio quality camera isn't exactly in my budget at the moment. Especially when my 8 year old Oculus CV1 VR headset is probably going to pack it in soon and need replacing 😅
I did everything the same as you did. Same Shakers, Same Mounting Position, Same AMP. One difference. I play ACC as main Sim and unfortunately the AC Preset you created does not work except for the ABS and gearshift. I need to look into it how to make it work but would also be nice if someone could assist on this one.
Unfortunately AC and ACC are two completely separate games and probably use different data or at least have different strengths for wheelslip and sway/surge. My profile is for standard Assetto Corsa, not Competizione, so it wouldn't be configured correctly and would explain why certain effects are missing 🤔 I'd need to create a new preset but ACC isn't something I use so wouldn't have any data to work with. It might be worth having a look at my Discord as I believe there is someone else currently working on an ACC profile, or if you could send over some SimHub replay data I could take a look also 👍
The amplifier will need a power supply too 👍 but most of the ones available _should_ also come with one included. Best to double check and make sure though.
@DDFRacer give us longer (30secs?) at the end of the video to pick up the TV remote and click on your next video. Otherwise RUclips sends me to some other video.
Noted 👍 thanks for the feedback! The maximum RUclips allows is 20 seconds and on most of my videos I put a short clip of a car driving off into the distance, but can't remember why I didn't on this one 🤔
Hey, any chance you could test the P-HPR Neo from simagic? The price is comparable to the bass shaker setup and I am wondering which one would be better.
Awesome video man, super helpful! Also love that you’re sharing your settings, definitely sub’d. Also, has anyone told you you look like the Riddler from The Batman (2020)?
It's amazing isn't it? I've used it for a few years to have some data handy when testing my HUD/overlay designs without having to set up a new race every time 👍 but it was really useful for these shakers too. Being able to recreate _exactly_ the same conditions but tweak the shaker settings is absolutely invaluable, removes a lot of the variables which often leave you second guessing whether the settings improved something or if it was just the driving that was different.
Your presentation of your video is very good my friend, you deserve more views but you keep up this level and it’ll come for sure. Keep up the good work mate 👍
Thank you very much for the kind words, it's appreciated! Video quality doesn't always translate into views though unfortunately 😉 there can be the most creative and well-edited video but if it's about a topic nobody is interested in or doesn't have a thumbnail/title that makes you want to watch it then it'll never go anywhere. It's always a balance trying to find the compromise 👍
@@DDFRacer In a perfect world surely, but not wanna buy a 2nd setup and all or deal with plugging and unplugging a wheel setup. Enough enjoyment in watching vids
Not at this stage unfortunately. I had a play around with those effects and found it was nice for immersion but became distracting when trying to figure out what was road rumble and what was grip loss as the two were kind of blending together.
Definitely have a chat with Rangey about the specific cables you might need 👍 mine came pre-soldered and stripped so there might be a little bit of work involved perhaps. Shouldn't be anything too difficult though mate!
Free: like comment and subscribe. Specially for sharing your shaker settings, up front, for free-fifty. I really like that, and have zero plans for getting shakers for myself. Cheers friend!
If I put the effort into getting them dialled in for three weeks, it seems kind of stupid to keep all of that work to myself 😅 might as well let anyone else who is considering this kind of thing, or already has bass shakers, benefit as well. Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated 👍
Really high quality video, I’m convinced! I ordered the stuff you recommend and am waiting on delivery 🎉. I have v3 peddles too, could you recommend the brackets you bought too please so I can pre order them? And did you need to order some stereo cabling seperately?
Sorry for the late response, I've been on vacation these past few weeks! I'm not sure where you're based in the world but the brackets I used were from my local hardware store, Bunnings, here in Australia so I'd imagine anywhere that sells general tools or supplies should do the trick for you. As for the stereo cabling, that was indeed a separate purchase 👍 the shakers or amp didn't include any.
@@DDFRacer Thanks mate, hope you had a good holiday! I’m based in the UK and to help anyone that comes here after me - I also went to a local hardware store and (pretty jankily) ended up with some 90 deg angle brackets that attached to the pedals using the m3 bolts used to keep the pedal faces on, and then I used super glue gel to attach the shaker to the other half of the angle bracket. Probably not the best option but the alternative was to drill new holes in the shaker, which I wasn’t keen on doing / didn’t have the right tools. In retrospect, there are some 3d printed type things available online to help with this if you do a quick google search - particularly so if you swap out the aliexpress transducer with the Dayton audio TS25 puck. If I were to do it again I think that’s the route I would take. Also, this may be a me problem with the type of amp I got (nosound - but with no power cable). You do need the power cable as well as the usb or you’ll be faring your hair out trying to figure out what’s going wrong for a while like I did 😂
I wouldn't hold your breath on that one unfortunately 😅 I don't own either game and they're not on my to-do list either. To make a SimHub profile for the shakers I'd need to run some serious laps to get some data to work with so I can dial it in effectively and make sure it's actually any good. Sorry mate!
Great video Dan, I run the same Nobsound card. 2 channels for me, one shaker on the pedal plate, and then a big one strapped to the back of the seat. Using the big one for engine rumble adds loads to immersion, especially in vehicles with big rumbly rear-mounted engines. Does not do much for lap time though! One word of warning on having that dial cranked all the way up, the Nobsound can apparently overheat and cook itself if it is run on full power for too long. Not had it happened to myself, but have seen reports of it happening in forums etc.
Awesome info, thanks for the heads up about the overheating on the amplifier/soundcard mate! I'm not running mine anywhere near full beans, maybe around 50% or so? And no large shaker in the seat either, just the two smaller ones so should be fine 🤞 but a little electrical burning smell might actually add a little more immersion now that I think about it...
Hi! Bought black bass shakers 25W 4ohm, and one of them broke after 2weeks of use. The one on the brake pedal with less effects applied to be exact. The part that broke is one of the 4 metal arms holding speaker together. Anyone experienced this issue? Tried to glue broken piece but the rest felt apart when unscrewing. Already ordered next one this time silver one (hope this will be more rigid). Driving with bass shakers is huge step up in immersion and big help driving non abs cars. I am very pissed now driving without one shaker - thats how good the feeling is. If someone have good quality shaker to recommend please let me know.
Sorry to hear that happened mate! I know Rangey (the guy who sent me these for the video) had the same issue too but he's got a reputation for running things a bit hard and had to leave mid-race once because he set one of his speakers on fire 🤣 In all seriousness though, this is something I'm worried about too and mentioned it towards the end of the video, not knowing what the quality of the components is like or how long they might last. If I find a better solution I'll be sure to make a follow up video 👍
Hi again! Silver speaker broke in the same manner after similar amount of time. Not crying, just want to share my experience, maybe somebody knows why they keep failing. The one on throttle is fine surprisingly - it has more effects (road rumble etc.) The ones that broke had only abs and wheel lock effects assigned. I ordered dayton tt25 hope they will end my problems.
@@suley1990 thanks for the feedback, not great news for you unfortunately 😬 but thanks for sharing, good to know! Still running the original set here so not sure what's going on, sorry to hear you having troubles with them again!
You should have watched GamerMuscle's video on the nob mini. Bass shakers are very easy to install and setup with some common sense. The ONLY 3 feedbacks you need turned on in simhub are Wheel slip, Gear Shift, and Engine vibration. Wheel slip should be 80-100% gear shift should be 80-100% and engine vibration should be 35-40%. Take care
What makes you think I haven't watched it? Wouldn't be a good idea to make a video like this without doing the proper research first 😉 Like I said in the video though, everyone's got different preferences so what might be good for me wouldn't be good for you. Nothing wrong with that and this is the beauty of SimHub, being able to tailor it to your own preferences and what you enjoy the most. For example, I disagree about the engine vibration to be honest, it doesn't really add any useful information for me as I can already hear the revs in my headphones...but if that's something which puts a big smile on your face then awesome 👍 that's what it's all about. Also, I personally find the way SimHub deals with wheelslip by default to be rather heavy handed and it triggers way too much in what should feel like low slip situations which is why I factored in things like how loaded a tyre is, g forces, sway and surge into my profiles. Having ABS turned on is also super useful, especially in iRacing where it absolutely murders your braking distances if you lean on it too much. Each to their own though!
Does the sound amplifier receive power through USB or is a Power Supply necessary (the link you provide leads to a product that is not available right now and I found one apparently the same without the Power Supply included)
The amp has its own power supply as it doesn't get enough juice from just the USB alone, so if you'll need to find one that has the power supply too 👍 a couple of other people have also mentioned the too, looks like AliExpress updated a few products and messed things up. Will refresh the video description when I can find suitable replacements.
No worries 😎 glad you found it useful! I was on the fence about shakers for a long time and it took someone literally sending them to me in the post to give them a try... But so glad I did! Feels strange driving without them now when I forget to turn SimHub on.
I’ve had 4 x DaytonAudio TT-25s since the start of year. I set them up for kerb/road effects but stopped using them a few months ago. RUclips randomly showed me this vid, I downloaded the profiles and loaded the AC one up for ACC. Holy crap! I’m 1.3s a lap quicker around Spa and would have gone another 0.4s quicker on my next lap had I not run out of fuel. And that’s after 20 minutes practice with them. I can trail off the brakes as soon as the ABS kicks in which has dramatically improved my braking and turn-in. Cheers dude, much appreciated!
Mate that's awesome, especially considering that profile isn't even made for ACC 😅 some serious gains there! I think by default most people would assume shakers are for road rumble, kerbs and so on but when you tune them for wheelslip it actually helps you understand the car a whole lot better. Just promise me a small cut of your new found prize money, right? 😎
First off, very interesting video. Thanks for that. Couple of questions. #1 - How do the brackets mount to the shaker. The video or Ali Express don't make that clear. #2 - The brackets are just bunnings ones, how did you ensure they fit the pedals? Just go instore and check them? #3 - Did you have to fit longer bolts?
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it! To answer your questions: 1 - The shakers came pre-attached to the brackets when Rangey sent them over so I don't personally have the experience of how they were mounted, but from what he's told me, the disc underneath the shaker unscrews and can be detatched. You can then use a replacement bolt (M5 or M6, he can't remember) with a couple of washers to attach it to the bracket. 2 - The brackets had to be drilled from what I gather, so no issue ensuring they would fit as the measurements were taken directly from the pedals themselves when drilling. 3 - Ah yes, good point! I completely overlooked this in the video. The replacement bolts for the pedals do need to be longer, although the lower bolt can't be too long as it'll interfere with the spring when the pedal is depressed. In this case they're countersunk stainless M5 x 50mm and 35-40mm (not sure on the exact measurement of the shorter bolt as Rangey cut this down to size manually). Hope this helps 👍
Couple of questions. I use a wheel stand, not a full rig. Was considering getting 40w exciters as opposed to actual bass shakers as it will fit my stand better. Will this give me the same sort of feedback if i mount 2 of them under my pedal plate in my stand? Also, i know simhub has an option for gt7, but i also play acc on ps5. Can i set these for both games? I know there's an acc option, but i believe it's for computer. Is there a generic option that simply runs subs through simhub on pc picking up audio cues from my ps5 to work with acc?
Sorry for the delayed response, I missed your comment last week! Regarding the placement of these kind of devices, it's really open ended in terms of where you can put them 👍 in my case they're on the pedals but I know plenty of people who have them on their pedal plates or under the seat. There's actually nothing stopping someone from mounting them directly to a racing boot to be honest 😅 but I haven't seen that done yet so maybe it's not too effective... Regarding ACC on PS5, ooof good question and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't have a PS5 and only use SimHub through PC. If you can transmit data from GT7 over the network to your PC where SimHub is installed then I can't see any reason why you couldn't do it for ACC also...but don't quote me on that! Using a direct audio source for your shakers probably isn't a good idea though to be honest, it's just copying what you'd hear in-game and at that point you might as well just connect up a subwoofer. The beauty of SimHub is that it uses the game's telemetry and generates signals based on what's actually happening with the car, so you can get your bass shakers/exciters kicking in when there's not always low audio frequencies such as tyreslip.
Well, the Thermalito test times seem conclusive. That's a significant improvement. Tempted to ask "how loud are they," but the answer seems clear: too loud for me. Shucks. I'd love to give this a go. I imagine one on each corner of my rig, feeding back from the four wheels. Really good video DDF; while I must deduct a couple points for Nickleback, your T-shirt more than makes up for it. Thanks for another great video Dan.
The biggest thing they were telling me was when I was sliding around too much. It's so easy to over drive the car and scrub the tyres which not only costs time going sideways instead of forwards, but burns them up much quicker too. Also helps keep the temps down and gives you more grip throughout the corner 👍 which is super noticeable with all of the elevation changes and funky cambers at Thermalito. I noticed it in other cars and tracks and also improved there too but maybe not quite to the same extent. Looking forward to doing some longer races and really testing out how much I can save on the tyres since that's always been a bit of an issue for me. A few other people here in the comments have said that with sufficient damping (rubber mounts, gym mats under the frame etc) then the noise isn't really too much of an issue but it's never going to be silent, that's for sure. Also, I wish I could say I was sorry about the Nickelback meme 😂 but I'm really not.
And if it wasn't for Rangey Rover sending these to me in the mail I _still_ wouldn't be using them 😅 but in all seriousness, they've not really been anywhere near the top of my list because of several reasons (noise complaints, no obvious consumer grade easy plug and play solution, wheel FFB being more than good enough etc), although having a very average experience with the HF8 last year probably put me off too. Even for the first few days of getting these bass shakers set up I wasn't convinced to be honest, but a few weeks of trial and error and I'm definitely convinced otherwise now. Loving them!
btw what do you think is worth more? bass shakers like these or haptic motors from simagic? as far as I understood, their configuration is pretty much the same through the simhub. Love the vibration graphics as well, can you share them somewhere? even without haptics/shakers, they might be pretty useful on the screen for consistency
The main difference between motors and shakers is that motors just vibrate at one frequency whereas shakers are an audio device and can change their frequency, therefore providing a bit more of a nuanced feedback. The motors can go softer or louder depending on the input but they'll just vibrate and that's that, feeding multiple inputs into the one motor can get a bit crowded and it could become difficult to tell what's actually happening. With the shakers, you can (for example, like I've done with my profiles) change the frequency depending on how close to the limit of grip you are, getting progressively deeper and more of a rumble as the car gets looser. They can also play multiple frequencies at the same time, allowing you to more easily tell the difference between multiple effects that are being triggered simultaneously. Motors can also have a slight (very small) delay to them whilst the motor itself starts to spin up and gain momentum, compared to the shakers which can react more quickly as they're essentially just an audio speaker/subwoofer style device. Hope this helps explain the difference 👍 As for the graphics, I included that as part of the download file with my SimHub profiles 😎 you'll still need to install the shaker profiles otherwise the data won't get generated on the overlay, but if you don't have any outputs enabled for the shakers then that's completely fine. As long as the data is generated then it'll work, even if it's not actually being sent to any device.
Thanks for the subscribe and the kind words, also sorry for the late reply! I figured putting some effort into a readme file might save the comments section becoming flooded with the same questions over and over of "how do I do this?" etc 😅
They're pretty good, and pair up well with the nobsound amp, not too worried about blowing out the little shaker. Going on 6 months with it now and no problems. Although the wires are flimsy af, they're holding up so far. Prob not as good as the simagic haptics so I'll eventually get those and drive them with the same nobsound amp and simhub.
Good to know, thanks for the info 👍 I'm running the amp around 50% and the signals going to the shakers from SimHub are rarely at full, definitely never clipping, so hopefully I should get some decent lifespan out of them. That was definitely one of the concerns I voiced towards the end of the video, not really knowing how good these things are in terms of quality but at least 6 months sounds like a promising start.
I bought two large ones for under my seat and pedals a while ago. I couldn't make it feel right back then. It felt a bit gimmicky and made a lot of noise, so I just stopped using them after a while. But after seeing you gained over a second, I might have to put in some time to tune it again😄 Or maybe I'll have to buy the smaller ones for the individual pedals too..
I reckon you'll be good with the larger ones mate 👍 and your placement should be fine too, from my research having one under the seat is pretty common and makes a lot of sense actually, it gives you a better sense of separation between the two channels. I made a profile for Richard Burns Rally too 😉
Great video. I've done this project and its incredible but in my case i'm only using it for ABS, the rest is too much information (in my case as a beginner).
That's the beauty of SimHub though and doing it this way, you can decide exactly what effects you want to enable/disable and make it suit your specific needs, instead of being locked in to the FFB that a particular sim developer decides to give you through the wheel. No point having all of the extra stuff going to the shakers and being a distraction when you don't want or need it.
great video and I have been looking for an amplifier like this, but would love to find a 4 channel to run the 4 I bought and have yet to install. Nice that it is USB and doesn't introduce all of the inevitable issues with another sound card in the PC
Yeah the USB side of things makes it super easy 👍 just behaves like any other output and no need to take the case off to install sound cards or the like. I'm sure there's a 4 channel version out there but worst case scenario two of these would do I suppose 😆
I love my base shaker. I would also highly recommend the Redion wind sim stuff. Works with simhub, adds a lot of a sense of speed , helps keep you nice and cool almost plug and play campared to base shaker setup, looks really cool on the rig although a bit noisy at full speed I would now never be without it. You dont know what your missing until you try and is about €150
I've thought about a fan many many times, especially considering the stinking hot and humid summers over here in Australia 😅 but unfortunately it wouldn't work for me as it would also be blowing on my mic and I don't think that would sound too pretty on my live streams...
As long as there's a digital to analogue converter before the amp that can take the output from SimHub and maintain multiple channels then I think it *should* be okay 🤔 but don't quote me on that one as I haven't tried that.
I agree, that would've been useful to show in the video 😉 unfortunately though the shakers came pre-mounted to the brackets by Rangey when he sent them to me. I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍
The speakers have the little pillar on them. This has an M6 thread, I removed this and made a pillar out of washers with a small M6 set screw going through. I'll post a pic in DDF discord.
Nah I've just had these shakers running on my pedals so far. Figured I would eliminate as many variables as possible when getting them set up and dialling the SimHub profiles in 👍 no reason why they wouldn't work well on the seat though to be honest, I know a few other people have that configuration and say it's quite good. I might try it out in the future, most likely swapping out the accelerator shaker as I think having the lockups and ABS feedback on the brake pedal is super useful.
Not bad ideas at all 👍 was reluctant to do those kind of things whilst recording the video in case I needed to change the setup for whatever reason, but it's been a solid few weeks now with no adjustments so might as well make everything a little more secure.
Ah thank you 😁 glad you're enjoying it! Between these shaker profiles and the codriver mod, it feels like these last couple of months I've been working on projects instead of videos... but I'm absolutely loving it. Feels great to be able to actually give something back to the community.
Bit late to the party here 😅 looks like you already got me on Discord! Keen to see how you get on with the ACC profile though as you're definitely not the first to ask 👍 would need to fire it up and test it myself to double check it's all good but there could be quite the demand for it apparently.
Love my Simagic Haptic Pedal Reactor on my brake pedal! It really does feel like a cheat code, like you said. I mostly race iRacing and I thought it was pretty limited when I was tweaking my settings in SimHub, like I thought wheel slip info wasn't available for iRacing. I just have it set up for ABS triggering (but that doesn't help in non-ABS cars)... I'll have to look into your settings to see if I'm missing out on anything else useful. Great vid!
I'd be keen to know what you think 👍 iRacing is probably one of the weaker sims when it comes to how well it performs with the shakers but there's definitely still a lot of useable information, especially for scrubbing the tyres and feeling the wheels start to lose grip mid-corner. ABS is definitely a lifesaver but my profile should also take into account brake locking too for those non-ABS cars you mentioned.
@@DDFRacer Okay, iRacing being on the weaker scale of thing might explain the 'lack' of input I got from your settings Dan; (been on that too much recently tbf), but I still can't explain the lack of feedback from the wheel lock output - nothing. went back and forth with my jenky settings and it was on on mine and off on yours. I'll spend some time on other sims and see what I get. Really wanted to get the 'judder' feeling into my profile and I'm far from being a technofile to work out how to generate those inputs leave lone how to go about that crazy math input you have going on there. Great vid production and content - as always. Cheers mate.
"Get" instead "make", so not DIY.
Reminds me of a musician I used to know. He thought using pre-recorded loops was cheating, so started making his own using samples. He then thought that using samples was cheating, so recorded some real drums instead. After that he thought that programming drums was cheating, so went out and learned to play drums for real. Thing is, he didn't like the drumkit from the store so decided to make his own. After that he thought that using pre-made drum skins was cheating, so found a goat and skinned it. He thought that that was cheating too, so started a goat farm to grow some more from scratch.
I haven’t heard much music from him lately, what with the goat farming and all.
@@DDFRacer One of my favorite replies of all time
@@DDFRacer Brilliant reply! That deserves a $10.00 box of Timbits.
@@DDFRacer What a great reply, first of all I thought you were “KIDing” with the goat 🐐 Good video also thanks.
@@DDFRacer spicy
WOAH!! DDF is it still you!? Your videos have always been quality, but you just went stratospheric with this one. Incredibly crisp through all the key areas. You absolutely smashed it today. Informative, funny, visually adaptive to highlight important facts, not too bloated with fluff. Absolutely stellar job mate. Personally I imagine these are a technology that will grow in the coming years and become integrated with sim racing gear as it gains popularity, and no doubt this video will have a hand in that. Thanks, much love xx
Ha yes, it's still me 👋 I didn't get my channel stolen or hire an editor! Thank you for the incredibly kind words, a lot of effort went into this one. Like I said in the video, originally I thought I'd knock this over in a couple of days but the sheer amount of trial and error that went into getting the SimHub profiles dialled in over the past weeks also gave me plenty of time to think about what I wanted to say, what footage to use and how to record it etc. My project folder ended up with 241 files worth 83GB eventually so definitely one of the biggest I've ever done 😅 seems to be worth it from what I can see so far though!
Top work, tried it and was initially disappointed, but after grabbing the profiles was blown away! Thanks for the effort, you're a legend!
Oh wow 🤩 thank you very much! You didn't have to do that mate, although that's 20% of the budget for these shakers covered already ha, much appreciated. Glad they're working out for you 👍 just out of curiosity, which sims are you driving and which have you noticed the biggest improvement with?
I am now on the Simagic P1000 with the haptics and I have a Buttkicker as well... I had given up on finding useful information about tire loads and generally during corner exit.. (have only configured tire lock and some curbs) thank you so much for making this video. I am gonna try your profile, you are awesome
No worries at all, happy to be able to help and give something back to the community! These last few weeks have been painful going through endless tests and tweaking of settings 😅 but hopefully it's all worth it. Super keen to know what you think and if any of it is actually useful.
@@DDFRacer I am impressed that you put the time to play with the offered telemetry and create your own calculations. I haven't tested enough to offer you useful feedback, but thank you nonetheless, I have always hoped that a very experienced sim racing youtuber would give something like this to the community. Cheers!
I have never seen Simhub formulas like these! Super useful! Amazing work!
Happy to be able to help 😎 but the credit also goes to Rangey, Ragesaq and Blekenblue for a lot of the groundwork in the code I used 👍
I have 6 . 4 Buttkicker Gamer 2's and 2 Dayton Puks. Had 4 Dayton BST-1'S before and they didnt last. I swear by Buttkicker, yes they cost more but the frequency range is larger and they are practically indestructable. Two floor plates left and right with a transducer each. My heels rest on these (pedals are inverted). Two on either side of my bucket seat. One on break pedal. The other on the accelerator. Each one isolated from the other and chasis via rubber isolators. Simhub is amazing piece of software. Ive taken rubber car mats cut them down the middle. Stacksd them 4 layers thick and put them under the four corner of my rig. This prevents the vibration from travelling through the floor. Only thing that does blow and need replacing are the amplifiers. Ive had 2 pop in the last 4 years and had to replace them.
That's quite the set up 😎 it's still quite early for me as these are my first shakers, but I can definitely see the appeal of having something like yours now, with all of the isolation between signals and additional channels. Sounds awesome mate 👍
The only problem with haptics is once you've used them, racing without them feels pretty empty.
My rig feels dead without my haptics turned on.
I feel the same about VR
I've spent the last few weeks playing around in SimHub, recording footage, editing this video together and not actually doing _that_ much solid driving to be honest. Really looking forward to getting back to my regular livestreams and events now where I'll no doubt experience exactly what you're describing 😉
@@DDFRacer
You’ll find that the haptics quickly fade into the background and just become a part of the experience. It goes from being a conscious que of what’s happening to something your mind automatically reacts to without needing to think about it. Occasionally when I forget to open sim hub I often drive a couple laps and wonder why I’m so bad and everything feels so numb and dead. Then I realize what’s wrong open sim hub and all of a sudden I’m in the car. Engine rumbling. Everything vibrating. Violent shocks through the chassis from curbs, and wheel slip. A 4 corner setup like mine cost me around $150 usd to put together. Four 30w puck style transducers, a 4x50w amp, some speaker wire and a couple red/white to 3.5mm adapters.
Now you’ve got the first taste of haptics through just the pedals give a four corner budget set up like mine a try. It’s honestly a bigger difference than going from a G29 to a dd. I can only liken it to the difference between racing on a single screen and being in VR.
@@MrbishiCordia Same, never raced without VR anymore, not a single session even a chill one lol, feels so weird racing on a monitor after using VR.
It's not at all cheap BUT have a look into the Smyth Research A16 Realiser. It can get complicated but the short story is, it 100% will accurately sim a 15.1.8 channel Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or 13.1 Auro-3D surround system inside a pair of headphones. It will also allow for an external subwoofer (or two) to be attached as well for realistic sub and infrasub frequencies (or if you'd prefer, you can hook up your haptic system instead of external subwoofers). It's not the gimmicky 7.1 surround sound headphones that Logitech or whoever push. This is a prosumer/professional device created by one of the founding members of DTS, James Smyth.
I would be more than happy to walk you through it completely free of charge. I love your channel and want to see it pushed even further.
Having studied and gained a degree in Audio Engineering at university, I find this kind of technology absolutely fascinating so thanks for sharing, I hadn't heard of it before. I've had a look at the official website and wow, very impressive stuff and can only imagine how it would sound...but I think it will be remaining in my imagination for a while 😅 that's a very steep price tag indeed, especially converting to AUD and not including shipping or taxes, and completely out of my budget unfortunately. Even if it was, things like a replacement VR headset and CPU upgrade would take priority 👍 but a few years down the track, who knows.
Dude I never knew about this. I'm into sim racing, now I have what I need in my Amazon cart, thanks for the info.
No worries mate 😎 happy to help out!
4:31 this part is incredible
It's an older meme sir, but it checks out.
I haven't even loaded it up yet, and I will already say thank you (plus it helps with YT). I already have the exact same amplifier and had my bass shakers on my pedals but got frustrated setting them up. You just gave me the kick start I need to try again. Thank you again.
I paid a little less per puck and got a 4 pack of Dayton Audio 30W units (haven't used them enough to endorse them, but they are an experienced speaker manufacturer) . The other two are under my seat, but I don't have them hooked up yet. I guess they will give me butt cheek feedback as well! 😁
I am using Logitech G29 pedals with a TrueBrake mod and interface board. (I do highly recommend the True Brake mod. It feels just like my old manual disk brakes).
I replaced my G29 wheel with a Cammus C5. There is NO comparison. If you can afford it, the Cammus is far superior. Wow what a difference. I can't imagine that a stronger wheel will make a difference.
I'm also looking at the cammus c5. At the moment I have a spring return t80 wheel and simsonn pedals.
I think if I get this bass shaker setup $100, simsonn pro pedals $300 and cammus c5 $500 delivered. That should be as cheap and effective as you could want to get your driving to as good as it can be. So $900 Aussie dollars.
Glad I could give you the inspiration to get back on it mate 😁 took me a while and I almost gave up a few times but very glad I stuck with it, the end result is really nice. Hopefully my SimHub profiles can be of a little use to you 👍
As for Cammus, I haven't really had a great experience with them to be honest. Last year they offered to send me a wheel to review and hey, why not, might as well. Gave them my shipping details and personal information and...never heard anything back for a few months apart from starting to receive marketing and promo stuff from them which I didn't sign up for. Chased up about the wheel and was asked to be patient, that they're busy, working on it etc. Another few months, chased them up again and they said it had already been shipped and signed for on delivery but I definitely hadn't received anything at this end. Didn't exactly inspire me with confidence so I told them not to worry about it. I'm not doubting they're good wheels and do the trick, but the customer service side of things was definitely a bit sketchy and put me off.
@@DDFRacer I read that a lot, but so far I haven't had a problems to contact them for. There have been 2 software updates since I got mine. Their app update section is a little confusing, but manageable. I did have to pay a lot for shipping, but the unit is heavy. So far so good.
@@johnelectric933 happy for you mate 😁 if it's good and it works then that's what I like to hear. Haven't got anything against them and not out to badmouth anyone, just sharing a personal experience 👍
this is the DIY video ive been looking for. thanks
Sorry it took so long 😅
Ooh, tempting ! Although will we get the full Rangey amplifier warmth experience? :)
I absolutely love that this is the first comment on the video 🤣 never let the Rangey fire meme die! 🔥🧯
Great Job Mate, Thank you for this.
You're welcome mate, hopefully it came in useful!
Have you tried to connect it to your PC using the Bluetooth and direct the output there? I was messing around- before I commit to anything- with a Bluetooth speaker I have with a good bass. I paired it with the PC and selected it as an output device. It worked. Technically, it should work with the amp too. That might saves you a cable and a usb port.
I thought about it briefly but decided against it for a few reasons, mostly due to the latency introduced by Bluetooth. It's not much but it's definitely enough to add a noticeable delay between the effect happening in-game and then being triggered on the shakers, particularly obvious for effects that switch on suddenly like a locked brake or ABS. I also run a few other devices over Bluetooth such as my keyboard/mouse, microphone and controller (for replay cameras etc) which are prone to the occasional dropout which isn't good when it comes to SimHub unfortunately, any devices disconnecting and reconnecting can cause system stutters and freezes which isn't exactly ideal mid-race. For what it's worth, saving a cable and USB port doesn't really make too much sense in my opinion as the amp is still connected to the power supply and wired in to the shakers anyway, but it's a good suggestion for someone who might be in a pinch 👍
Great video Dan been interested in this for a while myself. P.S your looking very stylish in that T Shirt
It's honestly one of my favourite tshirts mate, the material you used is superb quality and such a good fit 😍 it's a crying shame it's only a one off and not available at a merch store somewhere.
@DDFRacer ohh did I not tell you they are available now your dad has purchased a rather fetching white with green version
@@scbsimracingcommunity390 oh nice! He kept that one quiet 😉
Yeah, the Vibration issue was a killer for me. Sure, you can run them during the day, but then racing at nighttime will feel terrible. I live in a new apartment house in Germany, we are known for solid buildings in ger, but damn my neighbors heard them a lot.
I've had some other people mention in the comments that with enough insulating material under the rig (gym mats, car mats, HVAC material etc) then you can almost entirely eliminate the vibrations from transferring through the rig into the floor. That still doesn't eliminate the actual 'noise' that these shakers generate though so it's always going to be tricky in situations like yours unfortunately 😢
(also, I didn't know that Germany had a reputation for solid buildings 👍 thanks for teaching me something new today!)
You must avoid to send vibration to the rig. Use a bass shaker on your seat and mount the seat over four silent block. You can mount your pedals on silent block too. But you’ll get a bit of movement braking hard. Then put 8 rubber feet under the rig and place a rubber carpet on the floor.
It works. ❤
0:36 THANK YOU for this.
You're welcome mate 👍 might as well get to the point nice and early so you can get on with the video instead of keeping you hanging around for ten minutes waiting to find out.
@@DDFRacer Gotta say, that little detail was the very thing that got an instant subscribe, got my watch time to 100%, AND got me to jump on aliX US and grab the goods!
Looking forward to posting a trip report in a couple weeks!
Looks like you might have used an allen head when you should’ve used a torx head tool , you still might be able to get your bolts loose if you use a torx head tool. Try it , it will either work or it won’t. Couldn’t hurt at this point.
👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️
Too right, I didn't have the correct tools for the job 😅 but instead of borrowing them from someone, I decided to push on and cause some damage. All sorted now though, I took the pedals into my workplace and one of the technicians removed the bolts in about 5 seconds, just like that 👍 which goes to show the importance of having the right equipment.
i have never heard of any of these devices, good video
Legit thought I had BenDeen leaving a comment for a second there 😆 thanks for the kind words, happy I could teach you something new today.
Great video.
Question should we go for the 40 ohm or the 80 ohm bass shakers ?
Also do the bass shakers come with the cables connected as well as cables with the amp ?
And lastly how did you attach the shakers to the brackets
Also interested in the answer to this
These shakers I'm using are 4 Ohm 👍 and the cables are not included with the shakers or the amp so you'll have to get hold of those separately. Rangey sent them to me pre-assembled so I'm not sure if he needed to expose the copper on one end or add connectors on the other unfortunately. Same deal with the brackets too, these were pre-assembled, but from what he's told me the disc on the underside of the shaker unscrews and you can use a bolt with a few washers to attach it instead of the disc. Hope this helps!
I used JST-PH 2.0 connectors from amazon to join the cables, but it really isn't needed, solder or crimp them together would also be fine. there isn't a lot of cable from the factory
@@rangeyrover thanks for the answers. You are gentlemen and scholars.
I will try it out at my HF8, I'll share the result =)
Sounds good, keen to know what you make of it! Just worth noting though that these profiles are made for ShakeIt Bass Shakers whereas the HF8 uses the ShakeIt Motors. Two different sections in SimHub so I can't guarantee it'll work without a bit of tweaking 😬
Hey Dan! Absolutely gorgeous video you got there! No doubt you visualized the bass shakers in the best way. And I was apparently starting to look into pedal haptics myself!
One thing that eludes me right now is the mounting bracket. I need a 3D print just like that. Think you can help me with it? ^^
Hey Ricky, sorry for the double up comment but not sure if you've seen Rangey's response on my Discord server regarding the brackets? Hopefully you can figure out a solution 🤞
I did this mod.
There's a pack with 2 channel amp for 60aud. Then I just 3d print the brackets.
Awesome mod.
But I got a question about these bass shakers on simhub...
I've set TC, and wheel spin (rears only) to gas pedal
And ABS, wheel lock to brake.
But I've got inconsistency with the effects.
so on AMS2 it will only use the 4 effects I've set.
But in AC it will rumble like a PS4 controller to just about everything, yet give priority to the effects I've set.
I really can't figure out why AC is pushing extra effects through that I don't even have enabled.
Under calibration, there's a slider to actually enable what AC is currently doing, and it was slid all the way to the option that enables auto effects.
But even after resetting calibration and sliding it all the way to the left (only use predefined effects) it still rumbles as I drive down the road.
I can't say I dislike it tbh but I'd also like to disable it if I want
Hey Gregory, this is one of the issues that I noticed when creating my custom SimHub profiles, each sim outputs their values slightly differently and there's no universal scale. The forces generated also vary from car to car too, so an F1 car will be generating much more load and g forces than a touring car, for example. For some reason Assetto Corsa puts out more signal than AMS2 in general, RaceRoom is also guilty of this, so it's really difficult to create one profile that suits _all_ sims and handles the same unfortunately. The constant rumble you're experiencing is because the 'low level' in AC is equivalent to 'mid level' in AMS2, so it triggers much more easily.
@@DDFRacer thank you mate. Sounds like I'll be playing around with your profiles then after all
hey, thank for taking the time to make = this video and provide instructions. noticed you had some sleeves and clips on cables coming from bass shaker...where those included or did purchase separately? if so can you share where to pick them up. in melbourne so can pick up locally,
Those were already pre-assembled by Rangey when he sent them to me so I can't help much there unfortunately 😉 I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍
@@DDFRacer thanks mate, really appreciate that.
Great video Dan.
Cheers JK, glad you enjoyed it mate! Looking forward to getting back out on a live stream and using these properly soon.
Sim racing 🤝 Dubstep
WUBWUBWUBWUBWUBWUWBWUB
Yet another link between the audio world and the sim racing world. The amount of overlap is ridiculous.
to reduce vibration leaving the rig, have you looked into those interlocking puzzle like gym mats?
I haven't, but I certainly will be now 👍 thanks for the tip!
Loved it!
Theres any solution to isolate the noise/vibrations?
Plenty of other people here in the comments have mentioned that they've been able to reduce the vibrations by putting their rig/frame on top of things like foam or gym mats. That'll definitely reduce the passive vibrations 👍 but unfortunately I don't think there's much of a way to reduce the actual noise itself because that's how these shakers are transmitting the information.
@@DDFRacer And thanks for the profiles!
Can I double sided tape (3m vhb) onto my seat? I don't wanna drill. Any recommendations for a 4ch amp?
It'd need to be some pretty strong tape as these things are heaver than they look and I imagine the vibrations might shake them loose over time. Imagine your phone taped to the underside of a table but multiply the strength of the vibrations several factors, would that stay in place? You could give it a try but I'm not so sure it would be a good idea as you really need them secured well. As for the 4ch amp, this is something I would have to research and try first too 👍 so can't really provide much useful advice at this stage unfortunately.
@@DDFRacer thanks for the reply, I may take a chance and see how it goes. That VHB is pretty strong, used for ACM on skyscrapers; but maybe it's too strong and might rip the leather off the seat 😂
Having trouble with the iRacing profile. Feels like the shakers are going off at any small sign of wheel slippage. I'd rather them go off closer to the limit of traction. Any quick thoughts/tips on what settings I might be able to tinker this with?
iRacing was probably the trickiest sim to configure as it doesn't share the actual wheelslip data by default, instead SimHub has to interpret it and generate a value which isn't always entirely accurate. Also depends on which car you're driving too, even though I factored in some calculations to take into account the amount of load a car generates, it does vary between the different tyres of car for some reason. An easy way to dial it in to your preferences though would be to either reduce the Input Gain (although this may reduce the overall strength of the effects in general) or perhaps a better way would be reduce the Gamma Factor so that it takes longer to ramp up to maximum.
You'll need to make these changes to the Sway, Surge and Slip calculations within the Shakers profile in SimHub, although I'd strongly recommend recording some replay data of your preferred car first so you can adjust it in real time without having to drive a few laps, tweak, drive a few more laps etc.
Currently researching for a first sim build - Why are the bass shakers different from haptic feedback from small motors like the simagic haptic motors or even the smaller motors you mentioned that are on your Fanatec pedals? is it just more cost effective and a different approach to get a similar/better end result?
The default Fanatec motors are essentially the same as the vibration motor in your phone. It's either on/off and only at one particular speed, it also takes a little time to gather speed due to the intertia involved in getting the shaft with the offset weight rotating. These shakers aren't a rotating motor though, they're effectively a little speaker and generate vibrations by playing back sound frequencies, specifically bass frequencies. They have a much quicker response time (important when things happen in milliseconds whilst driving) and can also be tuned to play back different frequencies and volumes. For example, the more grip loss I have, the more I've tuned SimHub to lower the frequency and increase the volume which makes for a very nice progressive feeling instead of just on/off.
Can't speak for the Simagic ones though as I've never used them, sorry about that!
Really looking to do this myself but the amp is now out of stock. Any chance you could recommend another one which will do yhe same job 👍🏻
Ah bugger, that's a shame! I just had a quick look and this seems like the same thing so _should_ do the trick hopefully: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003181384420.html
What I'm curious to know is how might the feeling of this setup compare to a real-life racing car. I'm no expert, but I believe you can feel clutch biting point, ABS activation and possibly brake lock through the pedals of a real car. But what about wheel traction under acceleration and other driving characteristics? Can they be 'felt' through the feet (or by other senses) when racing in a real-life?
Racecars usually have stiff suspensions and no dampening stuff installed for comfy. They vibrate af once the tyres are scrubbing and basically the hole bottom.
From my research making these profiles, there's basically two ways you can approach this: immersion or information. I saw a lot of other people running effects like road feel, bumps, impacts etc which would probably be great for getting a sense of physically being in a car and feeling the road underneath you... but in terms of actual useful information that helps you drive faster? Not so much. That's why I focused on wheel slip and load 👍 and will be the first to admit it's probably nothing like what it would feel like in reality, but it's incredibly useful to get a sense of how the car is reacting. Without the g forces that real drivers experience all of this is a bit moot anyway I suppose 😅
Whether or not you can get it to mimic IRL feedback, your rig will come alive and will feel numb without it. It's worth diving into, even if you're a little skeptical about it. Play around with the values and shaker placement to find what works for you. Even adding one under the seat will change your experience for the better.
Yes of course we want to know if they work, but more importantly, how was the experience from AliExpress???
Can't say I've had any issues to be honest and I've bought multiple items from AliExpress now 👍
$100 dollary-doos? Sign me up! Heading to bunnings
Don't forget to take a couple of extra dollars for your snag 🌭
The setup with PC, will work with Gran Turismo 7 too.
Good to know 👍 I don't have a PS5 but a few other people in the comments have also mentioned this too. It's pretty cool that SimHub can receive data from another source on the same network and make these shakers GT7 compatible.
What Logitech TrueForce exactly does.
Yes...but not really. Trueforce uses some physics data to generate additional FFB through the steering wheel, whereas these bass shakers can be mounted _anywhere_ (in my example, pedals, but plenty of people mount them under their seat also) and also can be completely configured through SimHub to your own personal preference, not what Logitech decide. Also these are useful for anyone that doesn't have a Logitech wheel 😉
Yours are much louder than mine--and yours sound much more metallic. Probably because yours are cantilevered. Mine are pretty much bolted to the back of the pedal.
I have to admit, for the purposes of recording some useful footage where you can actually hear the shakers, I cranked them all the way up to exaggerate the effect for the video 😅 I can guarantee you they're definitely not that loud/rattley for regular use, they're much more of a low rumble. It's quite hard for my mic to pick that up though and it's hard to convey those bass frequencies without having the shakers physically in the room with you. I'm looking at a better mounting solution for the future though 👍 but the manufacturer doesn't recommend using the shakers in a vertical position so it'll be tricky.
Looking at your links for the bass shakers for my petals I see they're Ali Express. The very first time I tried to buy something on Ali Express it was a scam. Fool me once...
Sorry to hear you had that experience mate, can't blame you for being cautious! I'm sure you could get something similar from Amazon perhaps but yeah, I personally haven't had any issues with AliExpress and have ordered quite a few things from there now 👍
What wires did u use?
Good question, and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't know the specific wires that Rangey included when he sent me all of this gear. I'll find out and let you know though 👍
@@DDFRacer Generic speaker wire from Jaycar. These aren't high power devices.
One thing. How you have attached them is not very convenient. They move up and down now. You want it attached vertically so it's pushing forward and backward. Pushing against your foot.
When Rangey sent me these shakers, he'd already pre-attached them to the brackets in that configuration...but for good reason 👍 according to the manufacturer it's not recommended to use them in a vertical position and they strongly suggest using them horizontally. I also noticed there's not much space around the back of my pedals to mount these shakers without interfering with the springs and hinges when the pedals are fully depressed, particularly the accelerator, and this offset gives me enough room to avoid that. I'm sure there's a more graceful and efficient mounting solution, but for a couple of dollars this isn't too bad at all 😉
@@DDFRacer hey, if you can feel the vibration individually on each pedal then it's all good. 👍
After spending a few thousand dollars more: now I am 1 more milliseconds better.
That can be the case sometimes 😅 but with these shakers it was more like a hundred (Australian) dollars and several tenths to a second per lap in my case. Not all gains are measured in laptime though, these really help out with finding (and staying within) the limit of grip which makes you more consistent and saves your tyres too.
@@DDFRacer actually I was talking about myself 😂
That's progress :)
lol, surely NOT if you live in the flat ! or anywhere with neighbours ! :D
Absolutely not 🤣 unfortunately those vibrations are definitely going to travel like I mentioned a few times in the video 👍
I have the Sim3D motors but I can’t seem to dial them in, they don’t give me any useful information. I really can’t be bothered to spend weeks dialling them in, I wasn’t a plug and play product.
I'm not familiar with those motors so not entirely sure if you can connect them up to the SimHub software but if you can, it might be worth giving my profiles a try to see if you like them 👍 download links in the video description. This area of sim racing is still relatively new/unknown so there aren't really any 'off-the-shelf' solutions unfortunately and there's definitely some time investment needed to get them dialled in to your preferences, something that put me off shakers for a long time too. If Rangey hadn't insisted then I probably still wouldn't be using them, but I'm very glad I stuck with it.
@@DDFRacer yeah they do run off of simhub (I’ve paid for the license), il give your profiles a try, thank you!
@@DDFRacer the only problem I foresee is that the sim3d ones are motors rather than bass shakers
I use 4 of these some months ago. All broked in about 1 months.
I did mention this briefly at the end of the video, about how the quality and lifespan of the components is a big unknown, so this is good information, although maybe not what I wanted to hear 😬 were you running them at full volume for long periods of time maybe?
@@DDFRacer hi, not full volume because their vibration on pedals is very high. I use every day for about 2 hours. The problem is that the thin metal membrane breaks
no way am i paying a monthy fee for that, crazy man
Not quite sure what you're referring to there mate 🤔 where is the monthly fee? The SimHub license (which is optional) is a one time purchase and then the components needed for the shakers are also a one time purchase. My profiles and settings are also free to download 👍
get a good subwoofer and touch it with your chair :)
I love it 🤣 the budget version of the budget version.
#shill
You know it 😉 shameless advocate of Rangey Technologies Pty Ltd!
@@DDFRacer you forgot the link ;)
they dont improve your driving, they improve the experience.
Beg to differ on that one mate 😅 I've got the shakers dialled in to provide more information on grip loss, wheel lockups and so on which directly affects my ability to drive the car and let me know when I'm pushing too hard. I've found lap time, consistency and improved tyre life thanks to these.
hey mate, tomorrow i will pickup whole sim rig with CLS DD 8nm, cls lc pedals, bass shakers, aluminium rig with seat from audi sq5, 32 inch monitor, for 900e. i think thats great deal? its 1 year old.. but im interested in those bass shakers, i have never heard about those lol... Soo your v3 pedale have vibrations, do you think bass shakers are better or worse vs that vibrations(rummble)?
Sounds like a good deal to me if you're getting the whole package and it works 😎 nice one mate! The V3 pedal vibrations are pretty weak to be honest, hardly noticeable, and also either just on/off and not too customisable. These shakers are *much* more powerful, but also variable to can ramp up/get softer depending on what's happening and can also be completely customised to your preferences (which effects you want to feel) in SimHub. Night and day.
One really, really important thing about haptics is how you install them. They need to be really solid in their mounting, there should be no vibration or rattles. And everything on the sim rig needs to be tight. But, they are a game changer. I rate them more important to me than my SFX-100 motion platform. Also, mounting your rig on vibration isolating feet made for HVAC machinery will not only drastically reduce the noise but also make them more effective.
Absolutely agree 👍 it makes a big difference! I made sure everything was nice and secure, all bolts tight as tight as they reasonably could be etc. The clips of the shakers in action throughout the course of the video are probably a bit exaggerated to be honest but I had to crank them all the way up so my camera/mic would actually pick something up 😉 will definitely be looking into the isolation you mentioned though!
@@DDFRacer Well worth the few extra quid. I'm on the ground floor so don't have to worry about anyone underneath me. But I'm able to run my 100W haptics at 80% at 2am and not disturb anyone in the room next to me.
Less energy going into shaking the room = more shaking the rig!
Where can i buy that vibration isolating feets (HVAC grade)?
The quality of this video in terms of content creation (not pixel quality lol) is great! Definitely gonna check out some of your other videos
Thanks for the kind words 😎 much appreciated! I'm using a Sony ZV-1 as my main camera and my phone as a backup for the secondary shots in a few places, they're normally more than enough to get me through my live streams but can fall a little short when it comes to making these style videos. The camera itself is pretty decent though by all accounts so it could well be my capture card that's the issue 🤔 will have a look into that and see what I can do as a top of the range studio quality camera isn't exactly in my budget at the moment. Especially when my 8 year old Oculus CV1 VR headset is probably going to pack it in soon and need replacing 😅
I did everything the same as you did. Same Shakers, Same Mounting Position, Same AMP. One difference. I play ACC as main Sim and unfortunately the AC Preset you created does not work except for the ABS and gearshift. I need to look into it how to make it work but would also be nice if someone could assist on this one.
Unfortunately AC and ACC are two completely separate games and probably use different data or at least have different strengths for wheelslip and sway/surge. My profile is for standard Assetto Corsa, not Competizione, so it wouldn't be configured correctly and would explain why certain effects are missing 🤔 I'd need to create a new preset but ACC isn't something I use so wouldn't have any data to work with. It might be worth having a look at my Discord as I believe there is someone else currently working on an ACC profile, or if you could send over some SimHub replay data I could take a look also 👍
You nailed this video! Best DIy pedal haptic set up instruction/review on youtube. You earned a like, comment and subscribe on this one. Thank you!
Thank you very much for the kind words 🧡 it took a while to put together, much longer than expected, but well worth it in the end.
nice video!does the Amplifiers need power cable to work or just connecting to pc with the usb is enough?
The amplifier will need a power supply too 👍 but most of the ones available _should_ also come with one included. Best to double check and make sure though.
@DDFRacer give us longer (30secs?) at the end of the video to pick up the TV remote and click on your next video.
Otherwise RUclips sends me to some other video.
Noted 👍 thanks for the feedback! The maximum RUclips allows is 20 seconds and on most of my videos I put a short clip of a car driving off into the distance, but can't remember why I didn't on this one 🤔
Hey, any chance you could test the P-HPR Neo from simagic? The price is comparable to the bass shaker setup and I am wondering which one would be better.
Awesome video man, super helpful! Also love that you’re sharing your settings, definitely sub’d.
Also, has anyone told you you look like the Riddler from The Batman (2020)?
Ha no, I've never heard that one before mate. Never... 😅
As someone who has bass shakers I cannot believe I just found out about the record feature! Good stuff!
It's amazing isn't it? I've used it for a few years to have some data handy when testing my HUD/overlay designs without having to set up a new race every time 👍 but it was really useful for these shakers too. Being able to recreate _exactly_ the same conditions but tweak the shaker settings is absolutely invaluable, removes a lot of the variables which often leave you second guessing whether the settings improved something or if it was just the driving that was different.
Your presentation of your video is very good my friend, you deserve more views but you keep up this level and it’ll come for sure. Keep up the good work mate 👍
Thank you very much for the kind words, it's appreciated! Video quality doesn't always translate into views though unfortunately 😉 there can be the most creative and well-edited video but if it's about a topic nobody is interested in or doesn't have a thumbnail/title that makes you want to watch it then it'll never go anywhere. It's always a balance trying to find the compromise 👍
Jist upgraded from a 150 to a moza r9 (it's coming tomorrow) looks like i knownwhat I'm picking up next lol
Ah the sim racing upgrade rabbit hole 🤣 good luck to you and your bank balance on your new adventure. You'll love it 👍
Never seen this channel, not even a simracer either.
Still quality video, hope your channel keeps growing.
Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated! Would you consider giving sim racing a go if you had the opportunity? 😉
@@DDFRacer In a perfect world surely, but not wanna buy a 2nd setup and all or deal with plugging and unplugging a wheel setup.
Enough enjoyment in watching vids
have never got so much new stuff (even with 6 years into simracing) from a single video, thank you for hard work!
Thank you for the kind words 😁 glad the video was useful for you!
Do you have plans to make settings for the road rumble and vibration effects? Great work BTW!
Not at this stage unfortunately. I had a play around with those effects and found it was nice for immersion but became distracting when trying to figure out what was road rumble and what was grip loss as the two were kind of blending together.
Will order this tonight
Definitely have a chat with Rangey about the specific cables you might need 👍 mine came pre-soldered and stripped so there might be a little bit of work involved perhaps. Shouldn't be anything too difficult though mate!
Great video, thank you! I'm going to try this now! Where did you buy the brackets?
Should be available at any decent hardware store 👍 here in Australia it's just a few dollars (if that) spent at Bunnings.
totally want to do this to my sprints. already have a daton bass shaker under my butt.
No reason why not 😉 I'm the opposite way around to you, pedals are sorted but looking at getting one for the seat now!
Free: like comment and subscribe. Specially for sharing your shaker settings, up front, for free-fifty. I really like that, and have zero plans for getting shakers for myself. Cheers friend!
Changed my mind. Got to the rally part of the video, and absolutely would consider it!
If I put the effort into getting them dialled in for three weeks, it seems kind of stupid to keep all of that work to myself 😅 might as well let anyone else who is considering this kind of thing, or already has bass shakers, benefit as well. Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated 👍
Really high quality video, I’m convinced! I ordered the stuff you recommend and am waiting on delivery 🎉. I have v3 peddles too, could you recommend the brackets you bought too please so I can pre order them? And did you need to order some stereo cabling seperately?
Sorry for the late response, I've been on vacation these past few weeks! I'm not sure where you're based in the world but the brackets I used were from my local hardware store, Bunnings, here in Australia so I'd imagine anywhere that sells general tools or supplies should do the trick for you. As for the stereo cabling, that was indeed a separate purchase 👍 the shakers or amp didn't include any.
@@DDFRacer Thanks mate, hope you had a good holiday! I’m based in the UK and to help anyone that comes here after me - I also went to a local hardware store and (pretty jankily) ended up with some 90 deg angle brackets that attached to the pedals using the m3 bolts used to keep the pedal faces on, and then I used super glue gel to attach the shaker to the other half of the angle bracket. Probably not the best option but the alternative was to drill new holes in the shaker, which I wasn’t keen on doing / didn’t have the right tools. In retrospect, there are some 3d printed type things available online to help with this if you do a quick google search - particularly so if you swap out the aliexpress transducer with the Dayton audio TS25 puck. If I were to do it again I think that’s the route I would take. Also, this may be a me problem with the type of amp I got (nosound - but with no power cable). You do need the power cable as well as the usb or you’ll be faring your hair out trying to figure out what’s going wrong for a while like I did 😂
Can rangey rover be my friend. My last name is ranger
I don't see why not. He is a very friendly person, even for a grumpy Yorkshireman 😉
Can you do a preset also for F1 23/24, please?
I wouldn't hold your breath on that one unfortunately 😅 I don't own either game and they're not on my to-do list either. To make a SimHub profile for the shakers I'd need to run some serious laps to get some data to work with so I can dial it in effectively and make sure it's actually any good. Sorry mate!
Great video Dan, I run the same Nobsound card.
2 channels for me, one shaker on the pedal plate, and then a big one strapped to the back of the seat. Using the big one for engine rumble adds loads to immersion, especially in vehicles with big rumbly rear-mounted engines. Does not do much for lap time though!
One word of warning on having that dial cranked all the way up, the Nobsound can apparently overheat and cook itself if it is run on full power for too long. Not had it happened to myself, but have seen reports of it happening in forums etc.
Awesome info, thanks for the heads up about the overheating on the amplifier/soundcard mate! I'm not running mine anywhere near full beans, maybe around 50% or so? And no large shaker in the seat either, just the two smaller ones so should be fine 🤞 but a little electrical burning smell might actually add a little more immersion now that I think about it...
Hi! Bought black bass shakers 25W 4ohm, and one of them broke after 2weeks of use. The one on the brake pedal with less effects applied to be exact. The part that broke is one of the 4 metal arms holding speaker together. Anyone experienced this issue? Tried to glue broken piece but the rest felt apart when unscrewing. Already ordered next one this time silver one (hope this will be more rigid). Driving with bass shakers is huge step up in immersion and big help driving non abs cars. I am very pissed now driving without one shaker - thats how good the feeling is. If someone have good quality shaker to recommend please let me know.
Sorry to hear that happened mate! I know Rangey (the guy who sent me these for the video) had the same issue too but he's got a reputation for running things a bit hard and had to leave mid-race once because he set one of his speakers on fire 🤣
In all seriousness though, this is something I'm worried about too and mentioned it towards the end of the video, not knowing what the quality of the components is like or how long they might last. If I find a better solution I'll be sure to make a follow up video 👍
Hi again! Silver speaker broke in the same manner after similar amount of time. Not crying, just want to share my experience, maybe somebody knows why they keep failing. The one on throttle is fine surprisingly - it has more effects (road rumble etc.) The ones that broke had only abs and wheel lock effects assigned. I ordered dayton tt25 hope they will end my problems.
@@suley1990 thanks for the feedback, not great news for you unfortunately 😬 but thanks for sharing, good to know! Still running the original set here so not sure what's going on, sorry to hear you having troubles with them again!
Bought kit with these 2 shakers and amp for 40eur. Works great. Tnx for video and profiles.
Awesome stuff 😎 glad it worked out well for you. Considering how budget friendly the whole thing is, it works pretty well doesn't it?
You should have watched GamerMuscle's video on the nob mini. Bass shakers are very easy to install and setup with some common sense. The ONLY 3 feedbacks you need turned on in simhub are Wheel slip, Gear Shift, and Engine vibration. Wheel slip should be 80-100% gear shift should be 80-100% and engine vibration should be 35-40%. Take care
What makes you think I haven't watched it? Wouldn't be a good idea to make a video like this without doing the proper research first 😉
Like I said in the video though, everyone's got different preferences so what might be good for me wouldn't be good for you. Nothing wrong with that and this is the beauty of SimHub, being able to tailor it to your own preferences and what you enjoy the most. For example, I disagree about the engine vibration to be honest, it doesn't really add any useful information for me as I can already hear the revs in my headphones...but if that's something which puts a big smile on your face then awesome 👍 that's what it's all about. Also, I personally find the way SimHub deals with wheelslip by default to be rather heavy handed and it triggers way too much in what should feel like low slip situations which is why I factored in things like how loaded a tyre is, g forces, sway and surge into my profiles. Having ABS turned on is also super useful, especially in iRacing where it absolutely murders your braking distances if you lean on it too much. Each to their own though!
Does the sound amplifier receive power through USB or is a Power Supply necessary (the link you provide leads to a product that is not available right now and I found one apparently the same without the Power Supply included)
The amp has its own power supply as it doesn't get enough juice from just the USB alone, so if you'll need to find one that has the power supply too 👍 a couple of other people have also mentioned the too, looks like AliExpress updated a few products and messed things up. Will refresh the video description when I can find suitable replacements.
Note: Judder Right calculations are missing. To fix, copy from left. Now, you should see values in the graph when playing. @DDFRacer
Whoops 😅 thanks for letting me know, I'll get that fixed. Which sim profile is this in? Or is it across all of them?
Thanks!
Hang on a moment, thank _you_ too 😍
The video I didn't know I needed! Thank You!
No worries 😎 glad you found it useful! I was on the fence about shakers for a long time and it took someone literally sending them to me in the post to give them a try... But so glad I did! Feels strange driving without them now when I forget to turn SimHub on.
I’ve had 4 x DaytonAudio TT-25s since the start of year. I set them up for kerb/road effects but stopped using them a few months ago. RUclips randomly showed me this vid, I downloaded the profiles and loaded the AC one up for ACC. Holy crap! I’m 1.3s a lap quicker around Spa and would have gone another 0.4s quicker on my next lap had I not run out of fuel. And that’s after 20 minutes practice with them. I can trail off the brakes as soon as the ABS kicks in which has dramatically improved my braking and turn-in. Cheers dude, much appreciated!
Mate that's awesome, especially considering that profile isn't even made for ACC 😅 some serious gains there! I think by default most people would assume shakers are for road rumble, kerbs and so on but when you tune them for wheelslip it actually helps you understand the car a whole lot better. Just promise me a small cut of your new found prize money, right? 😎
First off, very interesting video. Thanks for that.
Couple of questions.
#1 - How do the brackets mount to the shaker. The video or Ali Express don't make that clear.
#2 - The brackets are just bunnings ones, how did you ensure they fit the pedals? Just go instore and check them?
#3 - Did you have to fit longer bolts?
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it! To answer your questions:
1 - The shakers came pre-attached to the brackets when Rangey sent them over so I don't personally have the experience of how they were mounted, but from what he's told me, the disc underneath the shaker unscrews and can be detatched. You can then use a replacement bolt (M5 or M6, he can't remember) with a couple of washers to attach it to the bracket.
2 - The brackets had to be drilled from what I gather, so no issue ensuring they would fit as the measurements were taken directly from the pedals themselves when drilling.
3 - Ah yes, good point! I completely overlooked this in the video. The replacement bolts for the pedals do need to be longer, although the lower bolt can't be too long as it'll interfere with the spring when the pedal is depressed. In this case they're countersunk stainless M5 x 50mm and 35-40mm (not sure on the exact measurement of the shorter bolt as Rangey cut this down to size manually).
Hope this helps 👍
Couple of questions. I use a wheel stand, not a full rig. Was considering getting 40w exciters as opposed to actual bass shakers as it will fit my stand better. Will this give me the same sort of feedback if i mount 2 of them under my pedal plate in my stand? Also, i know simhub has an option for gt7, but i also play acc on ps5. Can i set these for both games? I know there's an acc option, but i believe it's for computer. Is there a generic option that simply runs subs through simhub on pc picking up audio cues from my ps5 to work with acc?
Sorry for the delayed response, I missed your comment last week! Regarding the placement of these kind of devices, it's really open ended in terms of where you can put them 👍 in my case they're on the pedals but I know plenty of people who have them on their pedal plates or under the seat. There's actually nothing stopping someone from mounting them directly to a racing boot to be honest 😅 but I haven't seen that done yet so maybe it's not too effective...
Regarding ACC on PS5, ooof good question and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't have a PS5 and only use SimHub through PC. If you can transmit data from GT7 over the network to your PC where SimHub is installed then I can't see any reason why you couldn't do it for ACC also...but don't quote me on that! Using a direct audio source for your shakers probably isn't a good idea though to be honest, it's just copying what you'd hear in-game and at that point you might as well just connect up a subwoofer. The beauty of SimHub is that it uses the game's telemetry and generates signals based on what's actually happening with the car, so you can get your bass shakers/exciters kicking in when there's not always low audio frequencies such as tyreslip.
Well, the Thermalito test times seem conclusive. That's a significant improvement.
Tempted to ask "how loud are they," but the answer seems clear: too loud for me. Shucks. I'd love to give this a go. I imagine one on each corner of my rig, feeding back from the four wheels.
Really good video DDF; while I must deduct a couple points for Nickleback, your T-shirt more than makes up for it.
Thanks for another great video Dan.
The biggest thing they were telling me was when I was sliding around too much. It's so easy to over drive the car and scrub the tyres which not only costs time going sideways instead of forwards, but burns them up much quicker too. Also helps keep the temps down and gives you more grip throughout the corner 👍 which is super noticeable with all of the elevation changes and funky cambers at Thermalito. I noticed it in other cars and tracks and also improved there too but maybe not quite to the same extent. Looking forward to doing some longer races and really testing out how much I can save on the tyres since that's always been a bit of an issue for me.
A few other people here in the comments have said that with sufficient damping (rubber mounts, gym mats under the frame etc) then the noise isn't really too much of an issue but it's never going to be silent, that's for sure.
Also, I wish I could say I was sorry about the Nickelback meme 😂 but I'm really not.
You mean to tell your viewers you've been a Sim Racer all this time and you're just getting around to using shakers? 😭
And if it wasn't for Rangey Rover sending these to me in the mail I _still_ wouldn't be using them 😅 but in all seriousness, they've not really been anywhere near the top of my list because of several reasons (noise complaints, no obvious consumer grade easy plug and play solution, wheel FFB being more than good enough etc), although having a very average experience with the HF8 last year probably put me off too. Even for the first few days of getting these bass shakers set up I wasn't convinced to be honest, but a few weeks of trial and error and I'm definitely convinced otherwise now. Loving them!
@@DDFRacer yeah I feel naked without them 👍
btw what do you think is worth more? bass shakers like these or haptic motors from simagic? as far as I understood, their configuration is pretty much the same through the simhub.
Love the vibration graphics as well, can you share them somewhere? even without haptics/shakers, they might be pretty useful on the screen for consistency
The main difference between motors and shakers is that motors just vibrate at one frequency whereas shakers are an audio device and can change their frequency, therefore providing a bit more of a nuanced feedback. The motors can go softer or louder depending on the input but they'll just vibrate and that's that, feeding multiple inputs into the one motor can get a bit crowded and it could become difficult to tell what's actually happening. With the shakers, you can (for example, like I've done with my profiles) change the frequency depending on how close to the limit of grip you are, getting progressively deeper and more of a rumble as the car gets looser. They can also play multiple frequencies at the same time, allowing you to more easily tell the difference between multiple effects that are being triggered simultaneously. Motors can also have a slight (very small) delay to them whilst the motor itself starts to spin up and gain momentum, compared to the shakers which can react more quickly as they're essentially just an audio speaker/subwoofer style device. Hope this helps explain the difference 👍
As for the graphics, I included that as part of the download file with my SimHub profiles 😎 you'll still need to install the shaker profiles otherwise the data won't get generated on the overlay, but if you don't have any outputs enabled for the shakers then that's completely fine. As long as the data is generated then it'll work, even if it's not actually being sent to any device.
You just gained a subscriber here! Thanks for your dedication and specially for the README file included in the zip. Cheers!!
Thanks for the subscribe and the kind words, also sorry for the late reply! I figured putting some effort into a readme file might save the comments section becoming flooded with the same questions over and over of "how do I do this?" etc 😅
They're pretty good, and pair up well with the nobsound amp, not too worried about blowing out the little shaker. Going on 6 months with it now and no problems. Although the wires are flimsy af, they're holding up so far. Prob not as good as the simagic haptics so I'll eventually get those and drive them with the same nobsound amp and simhub.
Good to know, thanks for the info 👍 I'm running the amp around 50% and the signals going to the shakers from SimHub are rarely at full, definitely never clipping, so hopefully I should get some decent lifespan out of them. That was definitely one of the concerns I voiced towards the end of the video, not really knowing how good these things are in terms of quality but at least 6 months sounds like a promising start.
I bought two large ones for under my seat and pedals a while ago. I couldn't make it feel right back then. It felt a bit gimmicky and made a lot of noise, so I just stopped using them after a while. But after seeing you gained over a second, I might have to put in some time to tune it again😄
Or maybe I'll have to buy the smaller ones for the individual pedals too..
I reckon you'll be good with the larger ones mate 👍 and your placement should be fine too, from my research having one under the seat is pretty common and makes a lot of sense actually, it gives you a better sense of separation between the two channels. I made a profile for Richard Burns Rally too 😉
Great video. I've done this project and its incredible but in my case i'm only using it for ABS, the rest is too much information (in my case as a beginner).
That's the beauty of SimHub though and doing it this way, you can decide exactly what effects you want to enable/disable and make it suit your specific needs, instead of being locked in to the FFB that a particular sim developer decides to give you through the wheel. No point having all of the extra stuff going to the shakers and being a distraction when you don't want or need it.
great video and I have been looking for an amplifier like this, but would love to find a 4 channel to run the 4 I bought and have yet to install. Nice that it is USB and doesn't introduce all of the inevitable issues with another sound card in the PC
Yeah the USB side of things makes it super easy 👍 just behaves like any other output and no need to take the case off to install sound cards or the like. I'm sure there's a 4 channel version out there but worst case scenario two of these would do I suppose 😆
I love my base shaker. I would also highly recommend the Redion wind sim stuff. Works with simhub, adds a lot of a sense of speed , helps keep you nice and cool almost plug and play campared to base shaker setup, looks really cool on the rig although a bit noisy at full speed I would now never be without it. You dont know what your missing until you try and is about €150
I've thought about a fan many many times, especially considering the stinking hot and humid summers over here in Australia 😅 but unfortunately it wouldn't work for me as it would also be blowing on my mic and I don't think that would sound too pretty on my live streams...
@@DDFRacer Good shout!
My amplifier only has an analogue input, would this be a problem if i connect my PC analogue connection to the amp?
As long as there's a digital to analogue converter before the amp that can take the output from SimHub and maintain multiple channels then I think it *should* be okay 🤔 but don't quote me on that one as I haven't tried that.
Just yesterday, I was thinking about mounting my subwoofer under my seat. Now, this is a proper thing to do for feedback. Thank you!
No problem 😎 good luck with the project!
Would be great if you also show how you mount the speaker to the bracket itself too, wanted to see how I can adapt this to attaching to my rig
I agree, that would've been useful to show in the video 😉 unfortunately though the shakers came pre-mounted to the brackets by Rangey when he sent them to me. I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍
The speakers have the little pillar on them. This has an M6 thread, I removed this and made a pillar out of washers with a small M6 set screw going through. I'll post a pic in DDF discord.
Really interesting video, did you try them in any other way, tempted to try them on the seat to give more impression
Nah I've just had these shakers running on my pedals so far. Figured I would eliminate as many variables as possible when getting them set up and dialling the SimHub profiles in 👍 no reason why they wouldn't work well on the seat though to be honest, I know a few other people have that configuration and say it's quite good. I might try it out in the future, most likely swapping out the accelerator shaker as I think having the lockups and ABS feedback on the brake pedal is super useful.
Should put hotglue on the cable extrusion point and a zip-tie to lessen wiggle of cables.
Not bad ideas at all 👍 was reluctant to do those kind of things whilst recording the video in case I needed to change the setup for whatever reason, but it's been a solid few weeks now with no adjustments so might as well make everything a little more secure.
Enjoying the videos. Your rbr co-driver for Janne V3 is awesome! ❤🔥
Ah thank you 😁 glad you're enjoying it! Between these shaker profiles and the codriver mod, it feels like these last couple of months I've been working on projects instead of videos... but I'm absolutely loving it. Feels great to be able to actually give something back to the community.
@DDF Racer, would you consider creating a profile for ACC ?
Bit late to the party here 😅 looks like you already got me on Discord! Keen to see how you get on with the ACC profile though as you're definitely not the first to ask 👍 would need to fire it up and test it myself to double check it's all good but there could be quite the demand for it apparently.
Love my Simagic Haptic Pedal Reactor on my brake pedal! It really does feel like a cheat code, like you said. I mostly race iRacing and I thought it was pretty limited when I was tweaking my settings in SimHub, like I thought wheel slip info wasn't available for iRacing. I just have it set up for ABS triggering (but that doesn't help in non-ABS cars)... I'll have to look into your settings to see if I'm missing out on anything else useful. Great vid!
I'd be keen to know what you think 👍 iRacing is probably one of the weaker sims when it comes to how well it performs with the shakers but there's definitely still a lot of useable information, especially for scrubbing the tyres and feeling the wheels start to lose grip mid-corner. ABS is definitely a lifesaver but my profile should also take into account brake locking too for those non-ABS cars you mentioned.
@@DDFRacer Okay, iRacing being on the weaker scale of thing might explain the 'lack' of input I got from your settings Dan; (been on that too much recently tbf), but I still can't explain the lack of feedback from the wheel lock output - nothing. went back and forth with my jenky settings and it was on on mine and off on yours.
I'll spend some time on other sims and see what I get. Really wanted to get the 'judder' feeling into my profile and I'm far from being a technofile to work out how to generate those inputs leave lone how to go about that crazy math input you have going on there.
Great vid production and content - as always.
Cheers mate.