Hello James I was a teenager from Stanmore in the 80s. Before paradise lost it was Baileys. Saw many of the 80s comedians their with a meal in a basket as it was called( chicken nuggets and chips). Went to the opening of Paradise lost. The other place of note in Watford was the New Penny before the Harlequin centre and Shades on the lower high street . Thanks for bringing back memories now 57 and glad that is all behind me. Although I would take my age back with what I know now. Keep up the good work CP
I am so happy that you are finally able to work on soundproofing the engine. Wish I had any practical advice, but by now, you know I do not. I just continue to marvel at all your tool and engineering skills. Well done. -Leigh
Suggest you make sure to have easy access to engine for checking oil, stern-gland, weed-hatch, pre-checks? I'd also worry about overheating the engine, as it's "air cooled." Every Lister I've seen on other channels were either under the stern deck or in an engine room between boatsman's cabin with hatches open when running. (Or maybe have an engine thermometer to monitor how hot it's getting?")
I'm also concerned about heat building up, with ventilation being at a minimum (is that air duct for air coming in or heat and fumes to escape? You might consider adding an air intake (pipe like old ships had) and ducting just for the engine (operation and cooling) and a fan to pull the heated air out?
I also fear problems coming in the not too distant future due to overheating, unless more air flow is provided. Not only is the engine being boxed in but sound deadening material added. The engine could seize up, it will be running for hours at a time whilst cruising. Get advice James before committing, it could get expensive.
Prior to this update air could come in through gaps and openings, now I fear there's far less circulation. An air flow path in and out needs to be set up.
Yep legitimate concerns there. Noted. I’ve opted for less boxing in around the sides - just the one panel easy to remove and panels under the boards - which will not affect circ of air because the boards stop it already
To add an extra bit of security, you might want to use some short wood screws with finishing washers in the 4 corners of each panel. That way if the adhesive lets go, no worries.
You could put carpet staples around the edges of the board’s as the glue may give with heat from the engine. Put rubber 5mm strips on the joists to reduce vibration. Boat looking good.
If I heard correctly there will be wood panels positioned above the engine with this combined insolation material, while the wood panels surrounding the engine will have the same combined insolation material or just the reflective material? Either way you'll need to provide clearance for the crankshaft(?) pulley. Off the top of my head, I can't remember if it's summer or winter that wood can swell so that door may be a problem?
Best thing we did with ours to reduce noise (and vibration), was to put weedhatch tape on the boards where they sit on the bearers. I would try to retain as much air space and circulation around the engine as possible.
I purchased some for my engine bay with the foil already attached and sticky foam side about 10mm thick Marine Boat Engine Compartment Insulation Sound Proofing Heat 1.5m² GlassMAT™ I purchased it from eBay really good stuff ,once it’s on it on can’t get it off
Thinking maybe a lot of the sound is made worse by it vibrating through the steel and wood under your feet. Add something under the wooden boards (over the steel supports) to absorb vibrations. I would also suggest that the sound needs to be absorbed rather than contained, think of a sound room in a music studio.
To reduce the apparent noise, which will be mostly vibration ,reinforce the engine bed. Springer engine bearers were dreadful. We had to get welding done on our hull as the engine started to rip the bottom apart. Once done add a foam lead sandwich to the under side of the deck and bulkheads.
I was wondering if the door absolutely has to open flat to the rear cabin wall. I was also wondering about curving off the deck edge by the steps, which I believe you did mention previously.
Hello James I don’t no if you remember but I did mention that when you did the deck mate and I think more people commented the same glad you got round to it mate I think it will sound better on the cut when the lister is chugging along
Just make sure that any gaps you leave provide enough ventilation for air cooling the engine. Sadly an air cooled engine isn't going to be the quietest, because a lot of noise escapes the hot air vent out the side of the boat. And screws with penny washers will help to hold the insulation in place. Not tight so they crush the insulation, but just to provide mechanical security if the glue fails.
With all that boxing in and soundproofing are you running the risk of the engine overheating James? There is also a product from Builders merchants called Rockwool sound deadening, it’s a mineral wool, fireproof also.
Yep - a couple floor boards are simply lifted out and access is actually quite easy. Once insulated it’ll still be easy to get at, just an extra piece to remove - well I hope so anyway
James, don’t forget the old expression: ‘if it’s not broke don’t fix it”. I’m not an engineer but I feel that you are inviting engine problems later. What was in place when Springers were first built? I LIKE the sound of your engine.......
Instead of getting a larger piece of board, use a router to form a 9mm step joint so that the two pieces of board are nor butt joined, if you understand what I mean....👍
With RF power measured in decibels (as an example) there is a reference power of one milliwatt that is set as zero decibels [0dBm]. The “m” shows that 1 milliwatt is the reference. Power doubles every three dB, so 2 milliwatts would be +3dBm, half milliwatt -3dBm. It all relates to the reference power used. Higher RF power users such as radar or large transmitter engineering prefer a reference of one Watt so 1000 times higher, that is denoted dBW ie dB Watts. 0dBW is 1 Watt, 3dBW is 2 Watts, -3dBW is half a Watt etc. With sound I’m not familiar with the reference sound power level used but the principle is the same.
@@johnedwards1685 I just remember my dad the high school physics teacher breaking out the decibel reader and following me around while I was practicing my fife (used in 18th c. colonial American outdoor martial field instrument context.) I'd moved too far for him to come after my bagpipe band with his meter, lol! (but we all wore ear protection)
I think you have the wrong engine, it had to be a water-cooled one. Then sound insulation is less necessary because the motor is quieter. Of course, the boat is bought and built with a limited budget and this is an unexpected extra cost.
Hi ya James its colin here saying hi the colin you met at Denham boat yard earlier. I watch a vlog blog called my first boat, a German feller that's got a boat ( NOT A NARROW BOAT) but a for wont of a better word a normal boat he insulted his engine bay with some blinding stuff have a little look and see what you think it could be much more beneficial for your engine bay project. PS Mate I stupidly didn't log your phone number in my phone when we met hopefully we can meet again soon and exchange numbers again. All the best Mate.
@@IDKline Hi James 👋 good morning to you. The channel I'm talking about is My First Boat as I say he's a German fellow and he has his boat moored on a very large pontoon on a river. Try to find it he's very good. Good luck with it mate 👍
Hello James I was a teenager from Stanmore in the 80s. Before paradise lost it was Baileys. Saw many of the 80s comedians their with a meal in a basket as it was called( chicken nuggets and chips). Went to the opening of Paradise lost. The other place of note in Watford was the New Penny before the Harlequin centre and Shades on the lower high street . Thanks for bringing back memories now 57 and glad that is all behind me. Although I would take my age back with what I know now. Keep up the good work CP
Baileys eh - great local knowledge - top man. Hope you’re well
Love when the Notification pops up for this 👌
You’re too kind ❤️
I am so happy that you are finally able to work on soundproofing the engine. Wish I had any practical advice, but by now, you know I do not. I just continue to marvel at all your tool and engineering skills. Well done. -Leigh
Cheers Leigh as always
Suggest you make sure to have easy access to engine for checking oil, stern-gland, weed-hatch, pre-checks?
I'd also worry about overheating the engine, as it's "air cooled." Every Lister I've seen on other channels were either under the stern deck or in an engine room between boatsman's cabin with hatches open when running.
(Or maybe have an engine thermometer to monitor how hot it's getting?")
I'm also concerned about heat building up, with ventilation being at a minimum (is that air duct for air coming in or heat and fumes to escape?
You might consider adding an air intake (pipe like old ships had) and ducting just for the engine (operation and cooling) and a fan to pull the heated air out?
I also fear problems coming in the not too distant future due to overheating, unless more air flow is provided. Not only is the engine being boxed in but sound deadening material added. The engine could seize up, it will be running for hours at a time whilst cruising. Get advice James before committing, it could get expensive.
Prior to this update air could come in through gaps and openings, now I fear there's far less circulation.
An air flow path in and out needs to be set up.
Yep legitimate concerns there. Noted.
I’ve opted for less boxing in around the sides - just the one panel easy to remove and panels under the boards - which will not affect circ of air because the boards stop it already
Trust me james our stilts are very safe and you can stay another week will need to speak about hard standing though
Good to know !! Cheers Ralph
Good news about being back on the cut. I used to frequent The Horns in Watford, great pub .
I used to work there. My first car was stolen from the car park whilst I was working behind the bar as a 17yr old
Nice to see the table comes in handy James 😂😂😂
I think you can also buy sound deadening sheets to stick onto your plywood boards which would add ext
ra sound proofing
Yeah I’ve seen those - I’ll see if it needs more once done
good vid on you channel thanks lee
Good plan - Varying the surface depth and odd angles in the sound proofing will also help with sound reduction.
Here’s hoping bud
To add an extra bit of security, you might want to use some short wood screws with finishing washers in the 4 corners of each panel. That way if the adhesive lets go, no worries.
Yep good call
Howdy James snd more progress with those fiddling jobs. Glad you will back on the cut Monday, good luck. Keith
Cheers Keith
You could put carpet staples around the edges of the board’s as the glue may give with heat from the engine. Put rubber 5mm strips on the joists to reduce vibration. Boat looking good.
Don’t encourage him, he should get expert advice.
I had a similar project and decided to buy some of the insulation under car hood (bonnet?). It worked well and is rated for heat heat and chemicals.
Good to know - ta
If I heard correctly there will be wood panels positioned above the engine with this combined insolation material, while the wood panels surrounding the engine will have the same combined insolation material or just the reflective material?
Either way you'll need to provide clearance for the crankshaft(?) pulley.
Off the top of my head, I can't remember if it's summer or winter that wood can swell so that door may be a problem?
I’ll have no issues around the engine / but yeah that door may well jam in the summer
Best thing we did with ours to reduce noise (and vibration), was to put weedhatch tape on the boards where they sit on the bearers. I would try to retain as much air space and circulation around the engine as possible.
Yes points definitely noted - thanks
You have answered my question James, I asked before I had watched all the vlog 👍
All in good time my friend, all in good time
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt 👍
Went to College in Watford, it used to be a nice place to go out in.
I purchased some for my engine bay with the foil already attached and sticky foam side about 10mm thick Marine Boat Engine Compartment Insulation Sound Proofing Heat 1.5m² GlassMAT™ I purchased it from eBay really good stuff ,once it’s on it on can’t get it off
Good to know that works then - I’ll have a look
Hi James, why did you use plywood and not insulation board for the sound proofing please?
Hopefully the insulation works. Yes careful of the areas that get hot.
Me too pal - me too
Love to the family Sir
Thinking maybe a lot of the sound is made worse by it vibrating through the steel and wood under your feet. Add something under the wooden boards (over the steel supports) to absorb vibrations. I would also suggest that the sound needs to be absorbed rather than contained, think of a sound room in a music studio.
Yeah I get all that but I think it’s a bit late to take it all up given I won’t know what difference it makes. Let’s see
To reduce the apparent noise, which will be mostly vibration ,reinforce the engine bed. Springer engine bearers were dreadful. We had to get welding done on our hull as the engine started to rip the bottom apart. Once done add a foam lead sandwich to the under side of the deck and bulkheads.
Blimey - well I’m not doing all that !
I was wondering if the door absolutely has to open flat to the rear cabin wall. I was also wondering about curving off the deck edge by the steps, which I believe you did mention previously.
Yep still haven’t rounded that off yet clearly !! Will do some age ! The door doesn’t open flat anyway - gas locker stops it
Hello James I don’t no if you remember but I did mention that when you did the deck mate and I think more people commented the same glad you got round to it mate I think it will sound better on the cut when the lister is chugging along
Yeah I know but if I can contain the noise a bit - that would be good
Just make sure that any gaps you leave provide enough ventilation for air cooling the engine. Sadly an air cooled engine isn't going to be the quietest, because a lot of noise escapes the hot air vent out the side of the boat. And screws with penny washers will help to hold the insulation in place. Not tight so they crush the insulation, but just to provide mechanical security if the glue fails.
I bet Sloe Patrol will be happy to be back on the cut, too. It must feel weird to be a boat on land. ;-)
Oh she will sue - very soon I promise
This channel deserves more subscribers and viewers great content and vids every week
Cheers for that - feel free to force your neighbours to watch 🤣
Haha of cause mate !
I’ve been watching pretty much from the start but don’t know what length Sloe Patrol is?
43” - I think mentioned it a couple times over the year
Hope you’re well 👍🏼
Had no idea you could run the engine not being in the water. Used to out board motors and of course they need water to start. Susan
When testing the door towards your soundbarrier have you taken into account that your metal door will expand during warmer wether?
Not really no - I could thin out the board a tad in that area if needed
Those engines are quite loud. Be interesting to see how this helps.
Didly squat springs to mind
Thumbs up from me! :o)
Get in there !!!!
Is there enough clearance to change your alternator belt with the board in place at forward part of your engine ?
Yes - the board will be easily removable
With all that boxing in and soundproofing are you running the risk of the engine overheating James? There is also a product from Builders merchants called Rockwool sound deadening, it’s a mineral wool, fireproof also.
The rock wool gets damn so maybe not a great product for outside. I’ve changed my plans as I reckon you’re right about the overheating
James how do you access your motor for oil change or service?
Do you have to rip your floor up each time?
Yep - a couple floor boards are simply lifted out and access is actually quite easy. Once insulated it’ll still be easy to get at, just an extra piece to remove - well I hope so anyway
James, don’t forget the old expression: ‘if it’s not broke don’t fix it”. I’m not an engineer but I feel that you are inviting engine problems later. What was in place when Springers were first built? I LIKE the sound of your engine.......
Very wise - I think I’m going to go easy on the insulation so not to cause overheating issues
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt good!
Instead of getting a larger piece of board, use a router to form a 9mm step joint so that the two pieces of board are nor butt joined, if you understand what I mean....👍
I’m doing away with that board anyway
Will this pass the next safety inspection James. Concerned of lack of engine air flow,.
I’ve changed ideas slightly - won’t impact boat safety inspection at all - as long as it’s all accessible
Hello. Your decibel metre is recording as - (minus), should not this be a + ? I thought perhaps the average measure would be at least 70-80dbs.
I've never heard of negative decibels, lol.
I couldn't work that out as well the less the noise the greater the number.
@@barryhansen6854 Maybe it's considering 0 to be the point at which ear-damage starts occurring. (120db?) That's the only thing I could come up with.
With RF power measured in decibels (as an example) there is a reference power of one milliwatt that is set as zero decibels [0dBm]. The “m” shows that 1 milliwatt is the reference.
Power doubles every three dB, so 2 milliwatts would be +3dBm, half milliwatt -3dBm. It all relates to the reference power used.
Higher RF power users such as radar or large transmitter engineering prefer a reference of one Watt so 1000 times higher, that is denoted dBW ie dB Watts. 0dBW is 1 Watt, 3dBW is 2 Watts, -3dBW is half a Watt etc.
With sound I’m not familiar with the reference sound power level used but the principle is the same.
@@johnedwards1685 I just remember my dad the high school physics teacher breaking out the decibel reader and following me around while I was practicing my fife (used in 18th c. colonial American outdoor martial field instrument context.) I'd moved too far for him to come after my bagpipe band with his meter, lol! (but we all wore ear protection)
Me too people me too!
Goodness knows but as long as I used the same reader in similar wind conditions it should correlate
Top rank an baileys before that matey
👍👌❤🇨🇦
I think you have the wrong engine, it had to be a water-cooled one. Then sound insulation is less necessary because the motor is quieter.
Of course, the boat is bought and built with a limited budget and this is an unexpected extra cost.
Plenty of springers were built with air cooled engines - they are just noisier
Hi ya James its colin here saying hi the colin you met at Denham boat yard earlier. I watch a vlog blog called my first boat, a German feller that's got a boat ( NOT A NARROW BOAT) but a for wont of a better word a normal boat he insulted his engine bay with some blinding stuff have a little look and see what you think it could be much more beneficial for your engine bay project. PS Mate I stupidly didn't log your phone number in my phone when we met hopefully we can meet again soon and exchange numbers again. All the best Mate.
@@IDKline Hi James 👋 good morning to you. The channel I'm talking about is My First Boat as I say he's a German fellow and he has his boat moored on a very large pontoon on a river. Try to find it he's very good. Good luck with it mate 👍
Hey Colin yeah I remember you - you’re from Essex aren’t you? I’ll look out for it mate
Bengals v Rams. Your English equivalent would be the two shittiest worst run franchises for the last 15 years making the esl finals.
I agree with you, won’t be watching the super bowl this year.
Right - that’s a super bowl reference is it. I’m afraid I missed that
woke joker