Thank you for the video....same situation with mine and fried the same area.....the EOC part was a bit tough to find and expensive so with a 10-13 yr old oven decided to just get a new one.....the nice thing is i put the part back in to have the stove top for boiling and the digital readout was completely blank which meant no alarm sounding! 👍
Thank you for making the video. You did a great job and did not drag it out like so many of them do. My range did that same exploding noise too....liked to have made me jump out of my skin!
Ok, I figured out a solution. Just rip the wire off the speaker. The speaker is a circular component. It'll still say F1, but at least that annoying sound is gone.
I have the same F1 error on my oven. It’s covered under my home warranty so I’ll just file a claim and pay the $65 service fee and have pro instal it for me. Thanks for the video!
+J VH Hmmm.. I don't think it would be necessarily the same, because I believe the part I replaced has to do with controlling the power to the burners in addition to the timer functions. The timer itself may be similar though, so it may be possible to replace the part in a similar manner.
+stoppedsnoring Wife says we're also getting the F10 which is temp-sensor so I'm just going to replace that. I see they're not very expensive - 1 vid says around $30. Either that or I have a chance at another used oven - if that doesn't pan out I will replace the sensor but thanks 4 your videos they're very helpful.
Hello, first off thank you for sharing this. I have the same range (but stainless steel) that came with a house I purchased, I am having the same issue and code FI appeared. My question to you is after replacing the part do you still have the oven? does it still work? These are older models and I have no clue the original price to determine if this is truly a quality unit and I should repair or just replace. Anything will help, please let me know.
Sure thing! Yes, my oven worked too. I have had to replace a burner element and an oven element on mine too in its lifetime and in the back of my head I've been wondering at what point I should buy a new one vs just repair things.. When those elelments broke it was pretty obvious... it actually broke apart and you could see that clearly! Those are pretty easy to replace though.
Espero que esto se traduzca bien. No compré nuevo, porque era muy caro. Si no recuerdo mal, era más de $ 100, así que en vez de eso, encontré una estufa completa casi a juego, muy barata, en craigslist y compré eso en lugar de la pieza.
Sorry, I haven't encountered that error... but did a search online and a guy named Tyler on a fix-it forum suggested this: "So F2 E0 means that you have a stuck key. Unfortunately this usually means that your touchpad has shorted. You can try to turn the circuit breaker off for 60 seconds to see if the electronics will reset. Then heat up the touchpad with a hair dryer and try to rub your thumb over the different buttons to see if it will reset. If that doesn't work, replacing the touchpad is the only way to fix the problem."
going to reflect on something ,, looks like the original control board has a relay that also switched the L2 side of the power circuit for safety, the new control lacks this switched loop so I assumed you bridged the two together ,, the reason for the secondary relay being there is a say the bake or broil relay fails and manages to weld it's contacts closed ,, the control will sense this fault (Failure of the relay to open on command), and it and open secondary L2 relay, stopping the oven from running away , it will also open L2 side when the oven is off. if your oven does not also have a thermal fuse in the oven power circuit, such a bypass could result in a failure causing a dangerous thermal runaway that could set your house on fire. I do see 3 relays on the new control so a safety relay may be present on the L1 side of the control circuit. at the very least the L2 side circuit will have power anytime the oven is plugged in a lot of older oven are wired this way so one side of the element is always connected to L2. thats why you can see things like this happening, note this oven is switched off (because the element shorted to the oven case and still has L2 power present on one of its terminals ),, ruclips.net/video/lHJI47jWuJ4/видео.html
Thanks for the video mine let go Monday and yes its a Maytag ,the part that get my anger going is the cost for my stove replacement cost for a control timer is $909.52 And off course Maytag was bought by Whirpool so there .
Holy Toledo - - that's crazy how expensive it is. I was a little hesitant putting in a "used" part, but wouldn't mind doing it 2 or 3 times if I had to shell out that sort of money.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the video....same situation with mine and fried the same area.....the EOC part was a bit tough to find and expensive so with a 10-13 yr old oven decided to just get a new one.....the nice thing is i put the part back in to have the stove top for boiling and the digital readout was completely blank which meant no alarm sounding! 👍
Thank you for making the video. You did a great job and did not drag it out like so many of them do. My range did that same exploding noise too....liked to have made me jump out of my skin!
Thank-you for this video, it was extremely helpful...my model has a replacement cost of $200-300 (used are a little less).
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for the share, it was very helpful. But seriously, who has such a clean, dust free space behind their stove? :P
Thanks for the video, my solution is to buy a new stove. Ours is 22 years old afterall RIP.
Thank you for sharing...very helpful...mine went out last night...
Ok, I figured out a solution. Just rip the wire off the speaker. The speaker is a circular component. It'll still say F1, but at least that annoying sound is gone.
I know it's been awhile but what did you do with those last two wires
I have the same F1 error on my oven. It’s covered under my home warranty so I’ll just file a claim and pay the $65 service fee and have pro instal it for me. Thanks for the video!
Can some explain to me what he did with the last 2 wires that where on the original one in the stove that the new board didn't have?
Did he just tie them together?
Is this the same with gas ranges do u suppose ? We have a Frigidaire range doing exactly same thing only it's gas.
+J VH Hmmm.. I don't think it would be necessarily the same, because I believe the part I replaced has to do with controlling the power to the burners in addition to the timer functions. The timer itself may be similar though, so it may be possible to replace the part in a similar manner.
+stoppedsnoring Wife says we're also getting the F10 which is temp-sensor so I'm just going to replace that. I see they're not very expensive - 1 vid says around $30. Either that or I have a chance at another used oven - if that doesn't pan out I will replace the sensor but thanks 4 your videos they're very helpful.
I take a picture to remember wire placement
Hello, first off thank you for sharing this. I have the same range (but stainless steel) that came with a house I purchased, I am having the same issue and code FI appeared. My question to you is after replacing the part do you still have the oven? does it still work? These are older models and I have no clue the original price to determine if this is truly a quality unit and I should repair or just replace. Anything will help, please let me know.
Sure thing! Yes, my oven worked too. I have had to replace a burner element and an oven element on mine too in its lifetime and in the back of my head I've been wondering at what point I should buy a new one vs just repair things.. When those elelments broke it was pretty obvious... it actually broke apart and you could see that clearly! Those are pretty easy to replace though.
Can you show me how do I repair F2E0 please thank you so much!
saludos amigo necesito saber de cuanto es el transformador de esa placa ke el mio se me quemo para canbiarselo gracias
Espero que esto se traduzca bien. No compré nuevo, porque era muy caro. Si no recuerdo mal, era más de $ 100, así que en vez de eso, encontré una estufa completa casi a juego, muy barata, en craigslist y compré eso en lugar de la pieza.
Can you teach me how do I repair code F2EO thank you so much!
Sorry, I haven't encountered that error... but did a search online and a guy named Tyler on a fix-it forum suggested this:
"So F2 E0 means that you have a stuck key. Unfortunately this usually means that your touchpad has shorted. You can try to turn the circuit breaker off for 60 seconds to see if the electronics will reset. Then heat up the touchpad with a hair dryer and try to rub your thumb over the different buttons to see if it will reset. If that doesn't work, replacing the touchpad is the only way to fix the problem."
If I don't need the oven, can't I just disable the beeper?
Hmm. I don't know on this... I was just trying to get my whole stove/oven working in my case and replaced it all.
thank you! very helpful.
going to reflect on something ,, looks like the original control board has a relay that also switched the L2 side of the power circuit for safety, the new control lacks this switched loop so I assumed you bridged the two together ,, the reason for the secondary relay being there is a say the bake or broil relay fails and manages to weld it's contacts closed ,, the control will sense this fault (Failure of the relay to open on command), and it and open secondary L2 relay, stopping the oven from running away , it will also open L2 side when the oven is off. if your oven does not also have a thermal fuse in the oven power circuit, such a bypass could result in a failure causing a dangerous thermal runaway that could set your house on fire. I do see 3 relays on the new control so a safety relay may be present on the L1 side of the control circuit. at the very least the L2 side circuit will have power anytime the oven is plugged in a lot of older oven are wired this way so one side of the element is always connected to L2. thats why you can see things like this happening, note this oven is switched off (because the element shorted to the oven case and still has L2 power present on one of its terminals ),, ruclips.net/video/lHJI47jWuJ4/видео.html
I have the exact same problem, anybody have a part # to help me find the part
Thanks for the video mine let go Monday and yes its a Maytag ,the part that get my anger going is the cost for my stove replacement cost for a control timer is $909.52 And off course Maytag was bought by Whirpool so there .
Holy Toledo - - that's crazy how expensive it is. I was a little hesitant putting in a "used" part, but wouldn't mind doing it 2 or 3 times if I had to shell out that sort of money.
They never cost that much whoever told you the price tried to rip you off. The maytag controls go from 80 to about 300 and change
Thanks. This was very helpful.
Tengo problema con un horno es solo horno f ,1
Thank
M80
Awesome
He got another stove he removed the board before vedeo
Take a picture of the wires before you pull the wires
Last 2 wires kkkkkkk