Router Showdown: Achieve Perfect Precision NOW!
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2024
- In this video, we dive deep into the world of router accessories to uncover the differences between pattern bits and bushings. Whether you're a seasoned woodworker or just starting out, understanding these tools is essential for achieving precision and finesse in your projects. thesmartwoodshop.com
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I appreciate you not editing out the error. It's comforting to see even pros make the same mistake that I have on countless occasions while trying my hardest to avoid it. Thanks for keeping woodworking "real"!
I appreciate that!
Can't wait too see harder Bit !
Barry, what is a 'harder bit?' 🤔
I have seen a lot of your videos where you push bushings over pattern cutting. Here are a few other reasons why bushings are state of the art:
1) If you think of probably the single most expensive and revered jig out there, it might be the Leigh Dovetail Jig. Or at the cheap end you have the kind of dovetail Jig Porter Cable now sells. Both use Bushings, there is one that uses pattern bits, but it is less versatile. Keller? Forget the name...
2) Pattern bits need to have a sturdy shank, like any bit designed to take heavy cuts. That means that 1/2" shank to me. So you are looking at maybe a 1" cutter that is not spiral upcut, all carbide. So that means a lot more sawdust to expensively extract, more wasted wood, and a lot more effort. If you wanted to trim to the line with the pattern bit, you could eliminate a lot of these problems, and the accidents Ron is always talking about by doing an initial pass with a bushing, and doing only the final clean-up cut, at full depth, with the bearing having good bearing on the pattern. Drop the router in place, then start it up without the bit initially in contact with the wood.
3) There is a lot of talk about how to make patterns for bushings to cut to final dimensions accurately. I made the patterns for the Smart Bench and all was well, but now I am stuck with some patterns I will probably never use again... The only one that is particularly troublesome (big) is the one for the saw horses, and they are so great that maybe I will use the pattern again. But lets be clear. The difference is only 1/16 of an inch. There are a few places where that might matter, largely the interlock on the Smart Shelf (which isn't even used on the units that use a Smart Kart, though it is one of my favourite pieces). And there are only a few places where the pattern would have to be altered even if you did decide to go ahead and use the pattern in a sawhorse. Ron did use this very strategy on the original miter saw project. 5 of the sawhorse parts are cut with a pattern and the 6th is the pattern. I won't go into why this works in some cases, and not in others.
4) One approach that works is to cut your pattern full size, then run a bushing to cut it out with a spiral upcut. Then run a second pass with a pattern bit at full depth, just to trim it to flush. You can also use the less expensive 1/2" trim bit, but from the other side. That way, you do not waste material on patterns, or have to store them. You don't even need to flush the whole sawhorse. Just the contact points, if you prefer. Those would be the top surface, the feet, and the interface for the shelf if you are building one. You can also flush the top surfaces of the material support arms.
5) I have several plunge routers, but the one I had the bushings for at the time I made my Smart Bench, was the fixed base Bosch. I had no problem doing all the pattern routing with the fixed base router, and a 1/4 upcut, and a 3/8" bushing. So don't be put off if you don't have a plunge router.
Negative:
One problem with the busing pattern method is you have to buy bushings for your routers. They are cheap, but I have a lot of routers and it does add up, and for some routers they are hard to find. The bits are a lot cheaper, though
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I can't wait to see the finished product.
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I got a set of UJK metric template bushings and a few metric sizes of spiral downcut bits, it makes it much easier than trying to juggle fractions. I wish more companies would make metric bits!
My sets and bits are imperial, but I use metric measurements for calculations. For instance, for a ½" bit, I use a 12mm, and for a ⅝" bushing, I use a 15mm, resulting in a difference of 3mm. I simply pretend they are metric, and they're close enough. If I could easily acquire metric tools, I would, but I wouldn't pay extra for them.
I went to the a school that used metric in the 60s, so when they converted to metric in the 70s, most people could do the head math in either system. But they don't teach multiplication tables, or fractions at some schools. So people probably need an app... Either way, computers will spit out the answer, while keeping Base 2 to themselves.
I always get the feeling that people who like metric don't get that most of the modern world was invented with decimal inches. Once one gets down to thous and tens, they are just numbers in either system. Imperial still has names for the small stuff, I can't find a name for the next unit below mms. I guess they have one, or do they just gibber on about 1/10th of a mm?
The smart way to use Imperial is the way boat guys do. If you know basic math, hardly a given these days, then the fog usually only settles in around 1/16ths. Boat math, pre CAD, just goes down to 1/8ths. 1/16ths are called out as + or -. A table reads in feet, inches, eighths, and +/_. For cabinets I drop the feet. For some reason if you pull a dimension off the lofting floor and walk over to the boat, you can remember feet, inches, etc.. far easier than mm, or decimals. It works.
@@tacticalskiffs8134 the micrometer and the nanometer are smaller than mm.
@@bdm1000 Thanks for taking the time.
Very useful, thank you.
Glad to hear that!
I have had the same problem with pattern bits. I too am switching to bushings.
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Bushings are the way to go. But I did nip them. Partly because I wasn't using a plunge, at the time, I was ordering the bushings for it. If you are working reasonably fast, things can happen. I think I got one nip on the Sawhorse pattern. They are easily repaired.
I guess Im a bit confused. You made a video proving your theory, that a bushing works better, when you already knew that, and have mentioned it many times in other videos? You made it seem like today was different, and you were expecting a different outcome with the pattern bit. What am I missing?
He was SHOWING us why a bushing works better than a pattern bit (rather than merely TELLING us as he's done in the past), and it was helpful in my opinion.
@@bdm1000 he has SHOWED us many times in the past, why this is a better method, and I agree. SCROLL to minute marker 2:20, and he says he is prototyping for the smart cart. I wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something like there was a better pattern bit on the market that he found, thats it. It was a question.
This was one of those rare situations where using a pattern bit was the better option, as I had the CNCed bottom piece as the pattern. Before using the 18mm version, I wanted to test the 12mm version. However, I couldn't use a bushing because the 'pattern' didn't allow for the offset. I must not have been as clear as I thought. I intended to convey that I stopped the project and turned on the camera when I realized it was one of those times when I would choose a pattern bit over a bushing. I will try to be clearer in the future.🤔
It is the difference between cutting parts in a production setting - bushing; and making copies - Bearing. Arguably if someone gives you a perfect part, and you want to copy it, then using a bearing that tracks that pert exactly is the better option.
There is a third option, which is to use a bearing that is sized to the cutter so as to cut away an extra 1/16" all around, so a 7/8" bearing on a 1" cutter. Then you would produce a copy of the thing you ran that cutter on that is perfect for making parts with a pattern bit.