As an instructional video on how to hide wires while considering many options, you were great. The comments provided by others cover additional areas that I will also consider when I perform this work in our great room. Thank you for posting and you have earned another subscriber.
I do quite a few hidden cable installs and just a quick tip for the cable management. Hide as much of the extra cable length inside the wall cavity as possible, leaving just enough outside the wall for your needs. Saves having a lot of cables coiled up and cable tied to back of TV mount, looks much tidier and more professional.
I watched the entire video even though I know I'll never be able to do it myself. It's just to satisfy my curiosity of what's behind the scene of a neat TV+soundbar setup. Kudos for a clear step-by-step instructive video 👍👏👏👏
Comments like this and the success this video is now having after 1/2 a year makes me want to do more install videos but the reviews get so many views. Question, would you be interested in a video where I surprise people with a TV and install it all for free?
When you watch a video like this you can immediately tell that he knows what he is doing and has done this several times. One of the most efficient videos I have seen. It makes installing the behind the walls very simple. No expensive kits, just in the wall mounts as described. 5 stars B the Installer.
I see a couple problems wrong here, and hopefully this could help with bettering your workflow and to inform some homeowners. Back stabbing outlets as you said are not nearly as secure as I have seen many break off with little force because of heat, you should ALWAYS if possible secure the wire to the posts on the outlet. Second it is highly recommended and even illegal in some places to have more than two pairs of wire on a receptacle (Especially if its a 15amp circuit). That much current (depending on how the layout of the main panel and the amount of appliances on the circuit) running through those terminals can cause accelerated wear on the receptacle and at worst start a house fire. The best way to remedy that situation is to pigtail the wires and connect a single pair of wires to the receptacle (Hot, Neutral, and Ground). Oh and they do make combo 2 gang boxes with an LV (Low Voltage) on one side and box for power on the other! Hope this was some useful information that I felt I needed to share. :)
uhh. I'm not american, but an electrical engineer. You don't want to wrap your wires in place around posts. If they slide out, they slide out. Make the ground longer than the live and neutral though, so ground gets disconnected last. How many pairs of wires you have on a receptable is a moot point. If it's a 15 amp circuit, you need a wire that can handle 15 amps. If your wire can handle 15 amps, then it doesn't matter how many times it splits off. It's still 15A-fused. Draw more than 15A on that circuit, it goes click.
I caoght that at 12:51. Mid conversation with no thought just pure experience, seen the little gap on the top right edge and bam, little nudge, gone. Even better I was looking at it thinking he may miss it. Nope! It’s fun to watch someone that is so good at something and just makes it look natural.
ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER FIRST GUYS! He mentioned it but you can actually die from not cutting the power first. There are breaker finders fairly cheap where you can plug one side to outlet, and scan the panel to find the breaker for that outlet...
I would NEVER just stick the wires into the back of the outlet (or any other device). I always use the screw terminals and crimp the end around the screw. But, ALWAYS treating power like it is still on is the only way to go.
This awesome. I am glad I stumbled on your video while searching for something else. It was worth the 35 minutes it took to watch this video. Well done Sir!!!
It's a joy to watch you work- your experience comes through with how proficient you are and how efficiently you do everything. Thank you for this video!
Jeff - I'm enjoying it as well and especially all the great responses to "B the installer!" Nice forum, I'll need to check out B's other instructionals!
All was going great until the end, still a very well done job, professional rankings so please don't hate. Zipties give the appearance of low cost. Velcro cable and wire strips give an added detail, less abrasive, reusable if they need to be removed. Dressing the power cord and HDMI cable into uniform hoops and securing them with two Velcro strips on each cable/cord ends keeps the back side very organized and easy for the next person to identify. As a bonus, this will probably encourage the tech to step up his or her end game. Its the homeowners discretion to recommend you or not. The cord detail is going to ensure a positive review. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Wasn't the cleanest zip tie job. I will admit, but the velcro crap is bulky and time consuming. Btw, this was my bedroom tv so I did this on a rush basis. Have a good one Ya'll ☮
@@BTheInstaller the Velcro that I use is not bulky at all. In the case that there would be several wraps around say a single cable, I simply cut the Velcro strip so it completes about one and a half wraps. Low profile, clean look and also lowering the cost by getting two, three or four ties per strip. I'll throw in that your videos are also very well done. Video editing takes a lot of time and also knowledge to end up with a seamless video. One last thing, You can find those Velcro strips at The Home Depot. Thanks.
@@daracersdesign6736 thanks. Yeah this video was in my bedroom in a condo. I made it to be a client but needed a video. Didn't know it was going to be my most popular to date. In hindsight, you always wish you had taken more time and done a cleaner install when it then blows up. But yes it's extremely time consuming. Doing 2 install videos today and 4 hours of footage to make 20 min video. ✌
Instead of cutting a hole in a blank wall plate, you could use a brush wall plate. It might cost a few dollars more, but it would provide a cleaner look while providing more pass through for multiple cables.
Great video... But few suggestions.. As a installer you should get a single/double gang template.. Saves you alot of time.. Also you should Use a regular passthrough wall plate. I know its more expensive. But it looks cleaner and looks more professional.. And lastly you could ve used the same plate to run the soundbar cables.. Or at least make another plate. Not just make a hole... Beside that i thought it was a good installation. Cheers
Many clients don't run cords any longer, so often I simply add power. So having a bunch of doubles is wasteful for us. I explained every single reason for doing the opposite in the viddo. Have a good one.
Good video - lots of tips for first-time DIY'ers, as well as those of us needing a quick refresher. One tip for the HDMI cover plate that I have done: get a cover plate with a built-in HDMI jack (or two, if your TV has 2 HDMI inputs). The cable in the wall plugs into the back of the cover plate - then you have a HDMI jack on the wall and you plug in a shorter HDMI cable from there to the TV. And you do the same thing for the lower spot on the wall, so you have a short HDMI cable running from the wall to your Blu Ray, computer, etc. Then if you get rid of your Blu Ray, etc., you can just unplug the HDMI from the wall and just have a jack, no cable hanging out of the wall. Looks very neat and professional. One other thing: with today's smart TV's, Roku boxes, etc., I am also running Ethernet cable along with my HDMI's, so that I have concealed Ethernet that plugs directly to the TV or Roku (quicker than Wi-Fi).
This "Pro" installer is cutting corners, IMHO by not using "best practices". I'd never do anything, no matter the money, that isn't up to code and I understand codes vary from State to State. Tapping a cover place with the butt end of a screwdriver is asking for a gouge in sheetrock. Having done "thousands" of cutting 1" holes in blanks is certainly "cheap", but is a technological solution from the 1990's. I'd question the hookup with double wiring on one nut. I cut off the video at 23 minutes due to electrical "shortcuts". Having seen issues with faulty backstabbing, and particularly in CA where aluminum wiring had a brief moment in the sunshine, clearly, when dispensing "electrical advice", do you own research on how to hook up a simple outlet safe for someone you're charging money to do a job. I can't watch. But that's me.
you sir is a life saver! i love this video and also the fact that you take your time to explain step by step. when i was done watching the video i didn't have the need to ask any question
Great video. I have done hundreds of these installs, and sending this video to a family member out of state was a lot easier than explaining the install over the phone. One obstacle that i have run into are fire blocks in the way. Not sure if you have a video or not, but be great too see a video on how to work with that. Teaching pumpkin cuts, drilling through the blocks and running the cables. Thanks again, great video!
I'm going to make a video on tips and tricks. I just cut a 1 inch hole in wall 2 inches above stud and put the long but in and cut down through and use that hole to feed the cord from top hole down to block and through the hole I cut in wood with my fingers and then just patch the small 1 inch hole. It's really easy like that. I'll make video in a bit here. Within month with all my tricks.
Excellent video method, great B-roll and brisk editing. Step-by-step install for us dummies. I bet you could grind out four or five of these installs a day!
Lazy electrician used back stabbers on the outlet... tisk tisk Also for your top hole, they make a 2 gang combo box that has high voltage on one side and low voltage on the other, would have been perfect for your top cut.
Well over 50% of outlets I come across are back stabbed. Also as I said I don't use a dual box because many times I'm doing one or the other box and it is much easier to just keep it simple and have single boxes for whatever the next job may need.
The three wires of each color in the box at the bottom should have been pigtailed. I also object to the back stabber 50 cent outlets. Quality outlets are only about $2.00.
Very informative. My setup is similar but I put the sound bar on picture hanging wires under the screen, so when the TV is out from the wall and turned left or right, no matter where the screen is, the sound bar stays right under it at all times. It works fine this way. The hanging wires are hard to see more than a few feet away. My other TV is a 200" projector with a screen hanging where curtains would be. In that case, the speakers in the window bays behind the screen.
Is that "electromagnetic interference" ?? I know with analogue video and audio cables, running them next to power cables can induce electrical noise into the signal. I don't know if it causes a problem or not for digital signals though??
3 года назад+1
I thought it depends. I don't think this is true if you run line power close to a digital signal as the signal is digital, I believe EMI comes into play with analog signals only, meaning running analog audio cables next to Line voltage. I think the bigger danger would be running Line Power next to Low voltage as it could cause a fire if somehow the jacketing fails.
Gotta be honest with ya, have never thought about just making a hole where need be, always worry about tying them into each other. But it sure as hell would make it easier. Will keep that in the bag of tricks thanks.
Mount the Sound bar to the bottom of the TV with mounting brackets, then the sound is always facing the direction of the TV and no extra holes in the wall. Single layered sheet rock with a speaker mounted on it will also cause unwanted sound and distortion from the hollow wall and vibrating sheet rock acting as a passive speaker. Mounting the sound bar to the TV will avoid sound distortion from the wall. Never use Zip Ties on Audio / Video / Network cables, use Velcro ALWAYS. Zip ties tend to be pulled to tight and cut into the cables and they must be CUT to adjust cables. Cutting zip ties risks cutting into the cables. Velcro won't damage the cable and can be reused and provide easier cable adjustment. Leave more than adequate flex in the cable so that when the TV is moved, the cables don't pull tight and damage the Ports in the TV which are VERY easily broken and expensive. Cables can be replaced cheaply, but not TV ports. The TV mount has cable management built into the bracket and you didn't use any part of the cable path management provided. They make fascia plates with 1 inch holes in them you don't have to drill them. They also make fascia plates with Brush type coverings, very nice. Never bend the Fiber Optic Audio cable (which you did), always make 8 inch round curves, it's glass and bending it will break the glass inside. Some walls have horizontal Fire Break 2X4's (as required by law) and may prevent vertical access, so you need to make sure you don't put a hole in the wall in a vertical run where the Fire Break prevents a vertical cable path. Use a good Stud Finder to ensure a good clean accessible vertical path. Good concept, but poor execution. And yes, I do this type of work as a professional. . I would never do it the way you suggested in your video for a customer. . . but as you said, it's your house and by demonstration, getting by was good enough for you.
I had the same question while watching this. should have used a dual voltage electrical box. And I cant believe he drilled holes in the plates instead of using HDMI jacks.
Or how about not even running a new electrical socket, just an extension cable..? His way is more money, way more mess, way more work, way more accessories & spending... I don't get it!
Yes, I have my arc attached to the tv with the sanus SASB1. This video was from 6 months ago before I got that. It can help for arm mounts. I never turn that tv though.
You are very much a pro, from the using the duck tape as a mini saw horse to the dust pan catching debris, I really enjoyed all the tips and care taken. Great example of experience and brains you can tell when you said thousands you mean it! Again just really great professionalism by a very skilled intelligent technical A\V engineer.
For all the little pigs in brick and stone houses. You can add firring strips to your wall and install the drywall on that. Maybe add some insulation while your at it.
After years of being tired of the quality of the product, about three years ago I cancelled the service, unplugged my year old smart TV and took it to the basement and covered it with a sheet in the far dark corner. No more ugly thing in the living room and no more ugly wires. It took about a month to wean myself from the TV, but when it was over, that was it. That ignorant quarterback was the last straw. No more obnoxious commercials, or lying politicians, or news reporters, just quiet. It`s nice.
@@MatthewWatches not feeling the one inch hole and cable popping out at all. Put an HDMI plate on, and get cables that are the right length from your wall plates. That look is not professional at all, to save what, $10 on the HDMI plates? Hard pass for me. If I pull an ethernet line thru the wall, I don't pull a terminated cable out of the wall, that looks ridiculous. The plate should have a terminated female connection, that is a professional finished job.
@@gilbatzri why make extra hdmi connections and cost the homeowner more money? Worse job and higher cost vs. pretty behind a tv or tv stand? Think man.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 because terminated cable panels are professional. If someone is paying me, I want them to feel like they got something worth paying for. If you look in a properly wired and cable managed network closet, vs a raggedy half assed one, the difference is night and day. The same thing applies to home AV, it's negligible in terms of cost. Two keystone panels or two HDMI plates, the cable is the same either way, difference of ten dollars, and it looks like it was done by a professional, not like I spent Saturday morning hacking it up, if you are paying someone to clean it up, do it right, don't half ass. Cost is nothing comparatively. You have to buy the blanks and stuff anyway, just buy the pieces to install something that looks like it should be in a board room, the ten dollars difference is well worth it to me.
This is the tool for you. Cutsnails and screws, plaster/wire mesh and wooden lath like butta! Well, almost. Comes in handy on so many jobs. A variety of blades for different material from wood and drywall to tile or plastic trim pates, from threaded rod to galvanized strut channel and everything in-between. Mine is cordless for portability but homeowners could get by with the corded model which is more powerful and less expensive! Great tool for near anyone IMO. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-Amp-Corded-JobMax-Multi-Tool-with-Tool-Free-Head-R28602/206824272?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower_LIA_HolidayPlusUp&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower_LIA_HolidayPlusUp-71700000076461288-58700006510571568-92700058858128562&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlf2a8_Gr7QIVmeyGCh1S6ALmEAQYBCABEgKoTvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I like the idea of it, and while I don't specialize in this in particular, I am a GC and have done it. First I would recommend using an "old work hi/lo box" instead of using two separate boxes it looks so much cleaner. They also make HDMI covers that if someone is paying for a job $5 extra shouldn't matter. You also showed using 14awg wire without telling people to check the breaker size, if it's a 20amp breaker like most receptacles that is an illegal connection. With all that being said we don't start with trying to remove the old box and converting it to a 2gang box.
True about the 14 Ga. wire not being code for outlets (12 Ga. minimum), but the outlet is already wired with 14 Ga. so whoever did that is trying to burn down the house.
Yep, 7.1 surround sound and amp or you're not doing it right. But then.. this owner was too stingy for a proper HDMI wallplate and opted for holes drilled in covers instead. =-D
Sound bar nothing, get a descent 7.1 surround sound system at the very least and have 7 speakers ran all the way around your room for a true theater sound effects! Actually nothing wrong with 6.1 or even 5.1 surround sound systems either! Their all better then a sound box under your TV! That’s if you know how to set up your surround system correctly? Unfortunately many people have no idea how to set them up correctly much less how to run the wires properly either! I’m always re-wiring someone surround sound system it seems! LOL
14:10 Those holes are actually flexible tabs. You simply push the wire through, and then the wire gets held in place so it can't be pulled back out. It does a similar job to that of regular metal boxes with screw tab holders for the wire. Anyway, bending them out of the way like you did, defeats the "lock/hold" they were intended for.
They make cover plates with paint brush type coating so you have a clean look but its not always same size hole and same wiring, if at all. This video was done in a condo on a random day. Funny it is blowing up 7 months later.
That happens all the time to clients. We left this place and paid $50 for someone to fix the wall. This video is now getting 15,000 views a day. Worth it.
really liked how you used the lower HDMI cable hole to get the romex into the box! Brilliant. FYI the hole in the side of your Klein tool is to form the loop. Each post should only have one wire connected to it so I would have crimped the new ground to the old ground. Well done video.
@@BTheInstaller at all. I've done 2 on these in the last couple years. Folks hate seeing those cords but just don't know what to do. You gave them the confidence to move forward. Again well done. I subscribed
@@BTheInstaller also really liked how you used one hole for the upper 120v and low voltage boxes. Learning the short cuts of a pro was fun. Looking forward to more vids.
@@awakenedsoul2638 I bought a mount and mounted my soundbar to the TV. Wires from soundbar to TV are hidden by the mounting bracket. Electricians added the power box and low voltage opening during remodel. Al I had to do was fish the wires.
Very professional, thanks for sharing your trade. I saw another post said they decided to just hire someone, which is fine if they can find someone like you. I never can, so I do it myself for professional project. Lots of hacks out there. You don't need license for higher voltage work?
Before you push back the outlet always wrap electric tape around the outlet so the screws to touch the metal electrical box inside wall so you don't create a short thus flipping off the circuit breaker.
Nice. I have nowhere near the talent to do something like that. I do have a keen eye for angles though... And your TV is slightly off angle with the sound bar.... :-) Anyways, thanks again for the video, and I'd never be able to do anything like that by myself. You deserve all my respect and admiration. :-)
First of all this looks to be a pretty decent install on the surface but this is a pretty sloppy install if your doing this as a pro. 1. You should use a combined low voltage high voltage junction box and not try to cobble together individual pieces like you are doing. 2. They make special brush straps to pass through low voltage cables instead of drilling a hole into a blank wall plate. I know that’s the cheaper option but that doesn’t make it right especially if the customer is paying high dollar for the install. Also they make a nice brush strap for the hole you made behind the sound bar 3. Running the power cord for the sound bar inside the wall is totally against Electrical code.
1. I've explained multiple times the reason for the single boxes, which is because many times we do low voltage or electrical depending on the job. So having singles is more efficient and doesn't lack any quality. 2. The pass through boxes are done by the thousands, so feel free to buy the $4 cover plates. I get 50 of them at once and the time vs cost vs no one ever caring...it's just silly to even bring up. People want a good contractor to make sure the tv is secure and level.. make a better video.
@@BTheInstaller you never addressed the electrical code issue though. There has to be a reason for that code and I don’t want my house burning down over a sound bar. Any thoughts on if it’s a serious electrical code or not?
Ahh the US, where you can cut a hole in the wall .... using a knife. Meanwhile in the Netherlands I'm using power tools to cut channels into the wall 🤣
There's an old saying "You don't look at the mantlepiece while stoking the fire" or in this case "you don't look at the zip tied cables while watching the TV" aka "out of sight, out of mind". Enjoy.
I will say this is a good tutorial, few key elements should be better, upgrade the type of receptacle (better quality), The code should be above the desition of the customer. The project looks good nice clean.
Because you don't want to mix low-voltage and line voltage cables in the same box. Check the NEC for restrictions... [Edit: you can't squeeze the HDMI connector through the small knockout tab on the back of the box, either...]
I'm not doing it because of that... its just much faster and easier to have single gang boxes because many clients don't run hdmi so I sometimes do power only, sometimes I'm only running LV, so I just use 2 and the holes is always 3.75x5.5 inches. Do something tens of thousands of times and you make yourself more efficient so you can spend time with the kids, lol
Would look much better if you bought a double female hdmi piece to screw on to the plate... then the hdmi would be hidden in the wall and the plate would have an hdmi input plug 👍
or as many as the tv has so you can use all the inputs eventually if desired...as well as a plate for that speaker power...why not just make another plate like the first with the round hole...and use the same method to keep it consistent...
They make plates and keystone couplers that can be mounted usually up to six in a plate. www.amazon.ca/Keystone-Coupler-VCE-5-PACK-Adapter/dp/B01N5PW5G3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=HDMI+rack+connector&qid=1633301449&sr=8-5 and www.amazon.ca/dp/B07GRWQLRN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07GRWQLRN&pd_rd_w=HfJs8&pf_rd_p=b70ec263-55c4-45fa-924e-32fc8b5c5e85&pd_rd_wg=19KFF&pf_rd_r=BQXKH90XHHECS7A9WDR7&pd_rd_r=5a2a8a1c-1109-42a8-90c7-f488529f95fb&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR1JMMkI4MTY2QTg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA5ODQ4M1FWVzBNQ0pTUlkxOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzkxMzg0MlIyQ1I0NEpYODZXSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Time is money, and you did a very god job. Just another few seconds to roll up each wire and zip them individually would have been the cherry on the sundae. again, nicely done though, looks fantastic.
absolutely. because this video is absolutely crushing it, ill make some more with better cleanliness. I'm thinking one over a fireplace as it's way more complicated. i think many may like that.
@@BTheInstaller I've always wanted to do that with mine but was scared that it would get too hot above the fireplace. I guess I've never actually felt the bricks to see if they're hot, I just know heats rises...
Nice install but I’m struggling with the “not to code, the customer knows the risk, but still want it that way.” As a pro, I think that you need to ensure you follow code, even if it’s more expensive. You could have opened up the wall in front of the stud, chipped off a bit of stud, ran the electrical across the stud, put in a nail plate, and spackled a piece of drywall you cut out over it. But that’s my opinion. Otherwise, good, quick, efficient job.
Does code apply to low voltage such as what he was running. Is it any different from a doorbell or thermostat wire? Or do those also have to run along studs?
Neither of the things mentioned here are code relevant. Low voltage wiring can be in wall... the power cord for the sound bar is not proper regardless of how it's done. Every tv installer gets a person per day asking them to bury power wires. I don't tell people to do it.
Great video! Unfortunately, not that useful in EU 'cuz almost every time one needs to deal with concrete/brick walls and without a "wall chaser" (or whatever it's called) you'll have to hide wires under a cheap plastic housing ((
I did all this except the hole behind the soundbard .I'm using the little cover plate that comes with the Boss speaker and I hated. I will try this thanks 👍🏼👍🏼
yeah i get to the sound bars and people do NOT want to see that amount of cord after all the work that goes into the installs. i'm going to do some better installs, this was rushed...
@@thatpaulschofield well you can, just not as easily. But it's a bit more work for a regular person to embed stuff into the wall so we generally just go for exterior rails to hide the cables. But it's not all bad, tbh I get a little disturbed when I see american house reno shows and how easily you can break the drywall... just a harder bump and you have a dent in your wall, here you don't have that risk.
You should do cable concealment on right side of bottom outlet, drill through the stud to come out right under and catch romex from box . I use chain and magnetic stick . This way you would create top electrical and and cable concealment in the middle and run cords from soundbar in the same isle. And brush plates look much more professional then faceplates with drilled hole . Otherwise pretty clean and at least you know that power cables can’t be ran in wall . Most “ techs “ just don’t
Agreed man, ya that looks awful i would fire any worker that did that for me . or could of used a power Bridge kit for people who are uncomfortable dealing with electrical. And ya super simple for non insulated wall with no firebreaks either .lol
@@tevandorian1744 - I knew about the backstabbing, but I think it’s stupid that you can’t use a double gang. I’m not saying that you are wrong, because I did look this up. I just think it’s pointless work to add another box. One would think that as long as the wires are not coming out of the same side it would be ok.
@@tevandorian1744 what else isnt pref... calling yourself an expert and buying blank faceplates to drill out when for a few. Cents more You can buy face plates that already have holes in In them. This guy's a clown and probably gets all his information of Google.
@@tevandorian1744 well your statement is invalid due to the fact he ran both wires right next to each other so the separation statement wouldnt work.. now with audio and non insulated wires i would say yes separate. But with the insulation on both the romex and thick ass hdmi cable he ran a double box would work in this situation. Ran it by my electrician and he agreed.
I followed your "The Frame" install guide -- so far so good, and better than the included instructions. I'm stuck on the fish tape -- my home has pre-installed tubes from the wall to the outlet at the bottom of the wall, a 90 degree turn. Somewhere in the middle the fish tape hits something, both directions. No idea how to trouble shoot this. Any thoughts on another method? Given the tube is pre-installed, I would hope it'd be a fairly simple operation, but no dice!
@@BTheInstaller It's a Classic 80's sticker you put on Chemicals so little ones don't touch it. It saved uncountable lives💯 no doubt about that. That and the Garbage Pale Kids need to make a come back🤭🤣👍🎉.
@@BTheInstaller Facts but in the 80's Dre was in Sequence Outfits🥿(until last few yrs) and snoop wasn't heard of until 90'S & that's a different story. Good shit though specially 92 when everyone dropped 🎉but that's also when True Hip Hop started to Die😔Unfortunately.
Looks good. Any suggestions for those who have dot & dab fixed plasterboard over brick? The gap between the plasterboard and brick is about 5mm. - I'm guessing cut a slot in the plasterboard and repair it after ?
As an instructional video on how to hide wires while considering many options, you were great. The comments provided by others cover additional areas that I will also consider when I perform this work in our great room. Thank you for posting and you have earned another subscriber.
I do quite a few hidden cable installs and just a quick tip for the cable management. Hide as much of the extra cable length inside the wall cavity as possible, leaving just enough outside the wall for your needs. Saves having a lot of cables coiled up and cable tied to back of TV mount, looks much tidier and more professional.
I watched the entire video even though I know I'll never be able to do it myself. It's just to satisfy my curiosity of what's behind the scene of a neat TV+soundbar setup.
Kudos for a clear step-by-step instructive video 👍👏👏👏
Comments like this and the success this video is now having after 1/2 a year makes me want to do more install videos but the reviews get so many views. Question, would you be interested in a video where I surprise people with a TV and install it all for free?
@@BTheInstaller That would be interesting! I’m surprised. Let me know where to send my address
@@BTheInstaller damn that would be awesome.
When you watch a video like this you can immediately tell that he knows what he is doing and has done this several times. One of the most efficient videos I have seen. It makes installing the behind the walls very simple. No expensive kits, just in the wall mounts as described. 5 stars B the Installer.
Thanks, it's really something you can do if you follow the methods.. good luck and I appreciate your comment 🙏
I see a couple problems wrong here, and hopefully this could help with bettering your workflow and to inform some homeowners. Back stabbing outlets as you said are not nearly as secure as I have seen many break off with little force because of heat, you should ALWAYS if possible secure the wire to the posts on the outlet. Second it is highly recommended and even illegal in some places to have more than two pairs of wire on a receptacle (Especially if its a 15amp circuit). That much current (depending on how the layout of the main panel and the amount of appliances on the circuit) running through those terminals can cause accelerated wear on the receptacle and at worst start a house fire. The best way to remedy that situation is to pigtail the wires and connect a single pair of wires to the receptacle (Hot, Neutral, and Ground). Oh and they do make combo 2 gang boxes with an LV (Low Voltage) on one side and box for power on the other! Hope this was some useful information that I felt I needed to share. :)
uhh. I'm not american, but an electrical engineer.
You don't want to wrap your wires in place around posts. If they slide out, they slide out. Make the ground longer than the live and neutral though, so ground gets disconnected last.
How many pairs of wires you have on a receptable is a moot point. If it's a 15 amp circuit, you need a wire that can handle 15 amps. If your wire can handle 15 amps, then it doesn't matter how many times it splits off. It's still 15A-fused. Draw more than 15A on that circuit, it goes click.
1 conductor per terminal.. Need to use a pigtail cannot rely on the receptical to maintain continuity.
What HE said^
Love it thanks
I caoght that at 12:51. Mid conversation with no thought just pure experience, seen the little gap on the top right edge and bam, little nudge, gone. Even better I was looking at it thinking he may miss it. Nope! It’s fun to watch someone that is so good at something and just makes it look natural.
🙏
ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER FIRST GUYS! He mentioned it but you can actually die from not cutting the power first.
There are breaker finders fairly cheap where you can plug one side to outlet, and scan the panel to find the breaker for that outlet...
You have taught me so much..,not fair, ...you taught what I could have learned from anyone else on RUclips, but, it was you...., Thank you. 💪👍
I always wondered how this was done. Now I can confidently say I can do this. Thanks man.
Just be much more delicate and don't bang your TV off the wall
Tape the terminals with electrical tape to prevent short circuits 17:25
Very clean.. and well done. This is why i prefer the frame tv's... easier to access the ports
I had no idea it was so easy to add another wall outlet, lol - lots of projects ahead!! Thank you, great video
I would NEVER just stick the wires into the back of the outlet (or any other device). I always use the screw terminals and crimp the end around the screw. But, ALWAYS treating power like it is still on is the only way to go.
It’s always easy till your situation is different.
It is easy. Just don’t do what he does at 23:06.
One of the best tutorials in YT
Great install B. I was able to mount my X900H 75 inch using the tips on this video. I was even able to install the outlet behind the TV.
Nice work.
This awesome. I am glad I stumbled on your video while searching for something else. It was worth the 35 minutes it took to watch this video. Well done Sir!!!
It's a joy to watch you work- your experience comes through with how proficient you are and how efficiently you do everything. Thank you for this video!
Thanks 👍
Jeff - I'm enjoying it as well and especially all the great responses to "B the installer!" Nice forum, I'll need to check out B's other instructionals!
I just did everything you said step by step..... And it WORKED... Thank you. It turned out perfectly
I'm happy I think. 😆 now I'm just scared for the comment that said I followed it and myth fell. Lol.
@@BTheInstaller Haha. This was very nicely done. I really appreciate it. I wish there was a way to send you the pictures of my work :
@@darrenedwards4873 oh there is. IG, tag me @b_the_installer
All was going great until the end, still a very well done job, professional rankings so please don't hate. Zipties give the appearance of low cost. Velcro cable and wire strips give an added detail, less abrasive, reusable if they need to be removed. Dressing the power cord and HDMI cable into uniform hoops and securing them with two Velcro strips on each cable/cord ends keeps the back side very organized and easy for the next person to identify. As a bonus, this will probably encourage the tech to step up his or her end game. Its the homeowners discretion to recommend you or not. The cord detail is going to ensure a positive review.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Was thinking the same thing. Good constructive advice.
Also velcro wont slice you open like a scalpel
Wasn't the cleanest zip tie job. I will admit, but the velcro crap is bulky and time consuming. Btw, this was my bedroom tv so I did this on a rush basis. Have a good one Ya'll ☮
@@BTheInstaller the Velcro that I use is not bulky at all. In the case that there would be several wraps around say a single cable, I simply cut the Velcro strip so it completes about one and a half wraps. Low profile, clean look and also lowering the cost by getting two, three or four ties per strip.
I'll throw in that your videos are also very well done. Video editing takes a lot of time and also knowledge to end up with a seamless video.
One last thing,
You can find those Velcro strips at The Home Depot.
Thanks.
@@daracersdesign6736 thanks. Yeah this video was in my bedroom in a condo. I made it to be a client but needed a video. Didn't know it was going to be my most popular to date. In hindsight, you always wish you had taken more time and done a cleaner install when it then blows up. But yes it's extremely time consuming. Doing 2 install videos today and 4 hours of footage to make 20 min video. ✌
Man! You are one of the best instructors I have been watching... to the point, no bullshit, just love it. I have learned a lot, Thank you.
Instead of cutting a hole in a blank wall plate, you could use a brush wall plate. It might cost a few dollars more, but it would provide a cleaner look while providing more pass through for multiple cables.
Thank you for all the wonderful information buddy. “YOU ARE THE BEST”
Great video...
But few suggestions.. As a installer you should get a single/double gang template.. Saves you alot of time.. Also you should Use a regular passthrough wall plate. I know its more expensive. But it looks cleaner and looks more professional.. And lastly you could ve used the same plate to run the soundbar cables.. Or at least make another plate. Not just make a hole... Beside that i thought it was a good installation. Cheers
Many clients don't run cords any longer, so often I simply add power. So having a bunch of doubles is wasteful for us. I explained every single reason for doing the opposite in the viddo. Have a good one.
Thank you for showing a pro-level point of view.
This is the video I’ve been looking for. Damn thank you
Good video - lots of tips for first-time DIY'ers, as well as those of us needing a quick refresher.
One tip for the HDMI cover plate that I have done: get a cover plate with a built-in HDMI jack (or two, if your TV has 2 HDMI inputs). The cable in the wall plugs into the back of the cover plate - then you have a HDMI jack on the wall and you plug in a shorter HDMI cable from there to the TV. And you do the same thing for the lower spot on the wall, so you have a short HDMI cable running from the wall to your Blu Ray, computer, etc. Then if you get rid of your Blu Ray, etc., you can just unplug the HDMI from the wall and just have a jack, no cable hanging out of the wall. Looks very neat and professional.
One other thing: with today's smart TV's, Roku boxes, etc., I am also running Ethernet cable along with my HDMI's, so that I have concealed Ethernet that plugs directly to the TV or Roku (quicker than Wi-Fi).
This "Pro" installer is cutting corners, IMHO by not using "best practices". I'd never do anything, no matter the money, that isn't up to code and I understand codes vary from State to State. Tapping a cover place with the butt end of a screwdriver is asking for a gouge in sheetrock. Having done "thousands" of cutting 1" holes in blanks is certainly "cheap", but is a technological solution from the 1990's. I'd question the hookup with double wiring on one nut. I cut off the video at 23 minutes due to electrical "shortcuts". Having seen issues with faulty backstabbing, and particularly in CA where aluminum wiring had a brief moment in the sunshine, clearly, when dispensing "electrical advice", do you own research on how to hook up a simple outlet safe for someone you're charging money to do a job. I can't watch. But that's me.
*Rob Dyrdek teaches you how to manage wires*
🤣
lmfaooo
Lol!!!
Kool
Kool
you sir is a life saver! i love this video and also the fact that you take your time to explain step by step. when i was done watching the video i didn't have the need to ask any question
You make it look so easy. Great video. Right to the point, also I love how you give your extra little points , while installing
You rock!!!
Great video. I have done hundreds of these installs, and sending this video to a family member out of state was a lot easier than explaining the install over the phone. One obstacle that i have run into are fire blocks in the way. Not sure if you have a video or not, but be great too see a video on how to work with that. Teaching pumpkin cuts, drilling through the blocks and running the cables. Thanks again, great video!
Thanks Shawn. Cheers bro
Fire blocks concern me too.
@@rickeykeeton71 once you do one, simple to get around everyother time
I'm going to make a video on tips and tricks. I just cut a 1 inch hole in wall 2 inches above stud and put the long but in and cut down through and use that hole to feed the cord from top hole down to block and through the hole I cut in wood with my fingers and then just patch the small 1 inch hole. It's really easy like that. I'll make video in a bit here. Within month with all my tricks.
@@BTheInstaller 👍look fwd to it
Step1: Live in USA where the walls are made of drywall.. Here in EU it's mostly actual stone walls.
Conduit ;)
You can do the same on stone wall, its just a bit more of work!! And lot more of mess!! I love to do it!! :))
Plaster walls are a Bitch too!!
Canada uses drywall lol too
Still in the Stone Age.
Excellent video method, great B-roll and brisk editing. Step-by-step install for us dummies.
I bet you could grind out four or five of these installs a day!
Lazy electrician used back stabbers on the outlet... tisk tisk Also for your top hole, they make a 2 gang combo box that has high voltage on one side and low voltage on the other, would have been perfect for your top cut.
Well over 50% of outlets I come across are back stabbed. Also as I said I don't use a dual box because many times I'm doing one or the other box and it is much easier to just keep it simple and have single boxes for whatever the next job may need.
The three wires of each color in the box at the bottom should have been pigtailed. I also object to the back stabber 50 cent outlets. Quality outlets are only about $2.00.
@@jimholifield1496 objection overruled.
BEST video on RUclips 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Putting a dustpan under where you're drilling... genius
This made me feel stupid. Now a dust pan will be apart of my tool bag lol
Sometimes I will use a vacuum that is on while using an oscillating tool.
How you never know this? Lol
Very Good.. I believe I have the confidence to do this now. You are awesome!
This is the best step by step
Very informative. My setup is similar but I put the sound bar on picture hanging wires under the screen, so when the TV is out from the wall and turned left or right, no matter where the screen is, the sound bar stays right under it at all times. It works fine this way. The hanging wires are hard to see more than a few feet away. My other TV is a 200" projector with a screen hanging where curtains would be. In that case, the speakers in the window bays behind the screen.
Having high voltage next to low voltage will cause EMI. They also make HDMI wallplates too.
Is that "electromagnetic interference" ?? I know with analogue video and audio cables, running them next to power cables can induce electrical noise into the signal. I don't know if it causes a problem or not for digital signals though??
I thought it depends. I don't think this is true if you run line power close to a digital signal as the signal is digital, I believe EMI comes into play with analog signals only, meaning running analog audio cables next to Line voltage. I think the bigger danger would be running Line Power next to Low voltage as it could cause a fire if somehow the jacketing fails.
Gotta be honest with ya, have never thought about just making a hole where need be, always worry about tying them into each other. But it sure as hell would make it easier. Will keep that in the bag of tricks thanks.
Mount the Sound bar to the bottom of the TV with mounting brackets, then the sound is always facing the direction of the TV and no extra holes in the wall. Single layered sheet rock with a speaker mounted on it will also cause unwanted sound and distortion from the hollow wall and vibrating sheet rock acting as a passive speaker. Mounting the sound bar to the TV will avoid sound distortion from the wall. Never use Zip Ties on Audio / Video / Network cables, use Velcro ALWAYS. Zip ties tend to be pulled to tight and cut into the cables and they must be CUT to adjust cables. Cutting zip ties risks cutting into the cables. Velcro won't damage the cable and can be reused and provide easier cable adjustment. Leave more than adequate flex in the cable so that when the TV is moved, the cables don't pull tight and damage the Ports in the TV which are VERY easily broken and expensive. Cables can be replaced cheaply, but not TV ports. The TV mount has cable management built into the bracket and you didn't use any part of the cable path management provided. They make fascia plates with 1 inch holes in them you don't have to drill them. They also make fascia plates with Brush type coverings, very nice. Never bend the Fiber Optic Audio cable (which you did), always make 8 inch round curves, it's glass and bending it will break the glass inside. Some walls have horizontal Fire Break 2X4's (as required by law) and may prevent vertical access, so you need to make sure you don't put a hole in the wall in a vertical run where the Fire Break prevents a vertical cable path. Use a good Stud Finder to ensure a good clean accessible vertical path. Good concept, but poor execution. And yes, I do this type of work as a professional. . I would never do it the way you suggested in your video for a customer. . . but as you said, it's your house and by demonstration, getting by was good enough for you.
This is a perfect setup and guide if you asked me.😎
Why didn't you use double wall plates in place of two single plates?
I had the same question while watching this. should have used a dual voltage electrical box. And I cant believe he drilled holes in the plates instead of using HDMI jacks.
Or how about not even running a new electrical socket, just an extension cable..? His way is more money, way more mess, way more work, way more accessories & spending... I don't get it!
@@Kinetic-Energy117 you never want to run extension cord behind the wall. It is a fire hazard.
@@Kinetic-Energy117 That’s a good way to burn your house down and not be covered by insurance
Attaching the sound bar to the back of tv is better install, no holes and easy to disassemble.
Yes, I have my arc attached to the tv with the sanus SASB1. This video was from 6 months ago before I got that. It can help for arm mounts. I never turn that tv though.
Thank You, B., helping me to now being less than a total idiot in 35 minutes. Much Appreciate your great video.
You are very much a pro, from the using the duck tape as a mini saw horse to the dust pan catching debris, I really enjoyed all the tips and care taken. Great example of experience and brains you can tell when you said thousands you mean it! Again just really great professionalism by a very skilled intelligent technical A\V engineer.
🙏
For all the little pigs in brick and stone houses. You can add firring strips to your wall and install the drywall on that. Maybe add some insulation while your at it.
House construction on USA it's a joke, all made of cardboard and drywall
I think its just easier and cheaper. The engineers here know their shit too. Lol
After years of being tired of the quality of the product, about three years ago I cancelled the service, unplugged my year old smart TV and took it to the basement and covered it with a sheet in the far dark corner. No more ugly thing in the living room and no more ugly wires. It took about a month to wean myself from the TV, but when it was over, that was it. That ignorant quarterback was the last straw. No more obnoxious commercials, or lying politicians, or news reporters, just quiet. It`s nice.
Great job and explained very well, love the solid covers and you drilling through them, never thought of that. Again great video. I'm subscribed.
@@MatthewWatches not feeling the one inch hole and cable popping out at all. Put an HDMI plate on, and get cables that are the right length from your wall plates. That look is not professional at all, to save what, $10 on the HDMI plates? Hard pass for me.
If I pull an ethernet line thru the wall, I don't pull a terminated cable out of the wall, that looks ridiculous. The plate should have a terminated female connection, that is a professional finished job.
I'm sure you finish your jobs well. Have a good one.
@@BTheInstaller I try, your electrical and pulling skills surpass mine, just don't care for the exposed cable coming out of the wall.
@@gilbatzri why make extra hdmi connections and cost the homeowner more money? Worse job and higher cost vs. pretty behind a tv or tv stand? Think man.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 because terminated cable panels are professional. If someone is paying me, I want them to feel like they got something worth paying for.
If you look in a properly wired and cable managed network closet, vs a raggedy half assed one, the difference is night and day.
The same thing applies to home AV, it's negligible in terms of cost.
Two keystone panels or two HDMI plates, the cable is the same either way, difference of ten dollars, and it looks like it was done by a professional, not like I spent Saturday morning hacking it up, if you are paying someone to clean it up, do it right, don't half ass.
Cost is nothing comparatively. You have to buy the blanks and stuff anyway, just buy the pieces to install something that looks like it should be in a board room, the ten dollars difference is well worth it to me.
That looks so nice. It must be wonderful to be handy. When I attempt home improvement, it is never this smooth. Many props my friend.
We all have our strengths. Just years of repetition. This was a pretty rushed job. Going to do more complicated installs on cam
He is a professional who does this stuff everyday!
As a DIYer you cannot compare.
Very well articulated, made it look so simple 👍
🙏
Really good presenter. I am impressed!
I just stumbled on to this video by accident, going to Home Depot now,,,, thanks!
This makes more sense than any other videos I’ve seen. Informative! Thanks for the video!
Would love to see a similar video on lath & plaster walls.
This is the tool for you. Cutsnails and screws, plaster/wire mesh and wooden lath like butta! Well, almost. Comes in handy on so many jobs. A variety of blades for different material from wood and drywall to tile or plastic trim pates, from threaded rod to galvanized strut channel and everything in-between. Mine is cordless for portability but homeowners could get by with the corded model which is more powerful and less expensive! Great tool for near anyone IMO. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-4-Amp-Corded-JobMax-Multi-Tool-with-Tool-Free-Head-R28602/206824272?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower_LIA_HolidayPlusUp&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PortablePower_LIA_HolidayPlusUp-71700000076461288-58700006510571568-92700058858128562&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlf2a8_Gr7QIVmeyGCh1S6ALmEAQYBCABEgKoTvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I like the idea of it, and while I don't specialize in this in particular, I am a GC and have done it. First I would recommend using an "old work hi/lo box" instead of using two separate boxes it looks so much cleaner. They also make HDMI covers that if someone is paying for a job $5 extra shouldn't matter. You also showed using 14awg wire without telling people to check the breaker size, if it's a 20amp breaker like most receptacles that is an illegal connection. With all that being said we don't start with trying to remove the old box and converting it to a 2gang box.
True about the 14 Ga. wire not being code for outlets (12 Ga. minimum), but the outlet is already wired with 14 Ga. so whoever did that is trying to burn down the house.
When he said, "Some of you don't have a sound bar. Let's move on." I felt that...
x why is the sound bar not level
Because the homeowner installed without a level duh
It's 100% level
Yep, 7.1 surround sound and amp or you're not doing it right. But then.. this owner was too stingy for a proper HDMI wallplate and opted for holes drilled in covers instead. =-D
Sound bar nothing, get a descent 7.1 surround sound system at the very least and have 7 speakers ran all the way around your room for a true theater sound effects! Actually nothing wrong with 6.1 or even 5.1 surround sound systems either! Their all better then a sound box under your TV! That’s if you know how to set up your surround system correctly? Unfortunately many people have no idea how to set them up correctly much less how to run the wires properly either! I’m always re-wiring someone surround sound system it seems! LOL
Very well done , thank you for taking the time to share .
14:10 Those holes are actually flexible tabs. You simply push the wire through, and then the wire gets held in place so it can't be pulled back out. It does a similar job to that of regular metal boxes with screw tab holders for the wire. Anyway, bending them out of the way like you did, defeats the "lock/hold" they were intended for.
Ok... random comment of the day. 14/2 is pretty weak.. i just use them to make it a little quicker. Thanks for checking in
Why not use a rubber grommet to tidy up the holes in the cover plates- no insects crawling out of the wall space?
They make cover plates with paint brush type coating so you have a clean look but its not always same size hole and same wiring, if at all. This video was done in a condo on a random day. Funny it is blowing up 7 months later.
Nice! Thanks a lot! This will surely help me with my mount!
All that work and then your wife says "Hmm, I think i'd prefer the tv on the other wall".
That happens all the time to clients. We left this place and paid $50 for someone to fix the wall. This video is now getting 15,000 views a day. Worth it.
Not my wife, she's way hotter and cooler than me!!
If you went to the trouble of putting a stand on the wall, she better know where she wants it.
Hahaha so true man
LMAO @Mogs! That is right!
really liked how you used the lower HDMI cable hole to get the romex into the box! Brilliant. FYI the hole in the side of your Klein tool is to form the loop. Each post should only have one wire connected to it so I would have crimped the new ground to the old ground. Well done video.
Yeah, I got lazy. It was a quick video funny enough, never thought it would be most popular to date
@@BTheInstallerI'm not surprised
@@BTheInstaller at all. I've done 2 on these in the last couple years. Folks hate seeing those cords but just don't know what to do. You gave them the confidence to move forward. Again well done. I subscribed
@@BTheInstaller also really liked how you used one hole for the upper 120v and low voltage boxes. Learning the short cuts of a pro was fun. Looking forward to more vids.
As a newbie to DIY it would be great to have a list of the tools you're using. All of them so I can build my tool box. Thanks!
Do not do it his way. The finish is clean but when you need to remove wires its messy, not easy to remove and you still need to move the tv.
@@awakenedsoul2638 I bought a mount and mounted my soundbar to the TV. Wires from soundbar to TV are hidden by the mounting bracket. Electricians added the power box and low voltage opening during remodel. Al I had to do was fish the wires.
@@JH-mt3pp
I do not like it this way.
I have a different idea but you may not like it.
Very professional, thanks for sharing your trade. I saw another post said they decided to just hire someone, which is fine if they can find someone like you. I never can, so I do it myself for professional project. Lots of hacks out there. You don't need license for higher voltage work?
Should have mounted the soundbar below the tv. So it swings out with the TV and you don't have to put another hole in the wall.
yeah i didn't have on here and it was already on wall.
Very nice job on the video and a pleasure to watch. Thanks.
Before you push back the outlet always wrap electric tape around the outlet so the screws to touch the metal electrical box inside wall so you don't create a short thus flipping off the circuit breaker.
Really enjoyed your video and appreciate the time you took to make it and the detailed information. Thank you!
First MAKE SURE YOU SHUT OFF THE BREAKER FROM THAT OUTLET !!
🙏🏽
Nice. I have nowhere near the talent to do something like that. I do have a keen eye for angles though... And your TV is slightly off angle with the sound bar.... :-)
Anyways, thanks again for the video, and I'd never be able to do anything like that by myself. You deserve all my respect and admiration. :-)
First of all this looks to be a pretty decent install on the surface but this is a pretty sloppy install if your doing this as a pro.
1. You should use a combined low voltage high voltage junction box and not try to cobble together individual pieces like you are doing.
2. They make special brush straps to pass through low voltage cables instead of drilling a hole into a blank wall plate. I know that’s the cheaper option but that doesn’t make it right especially if the customer is paying high dollar for the install. Also they make a nice brush strap for the hole you made behind the sound bar
3. Running the power cord for the sound bar inside the wall is totally against Electrical code.
Yeah to do in your own house or a cheap cheap customer yeah whatever but other than that I agree but everything done in this video is solid.
1. I've explained multiple times the reason for the single boxes, which is because many times we do low voltage or electrical depending on the job. So having singles is more efficient and doesn't lack any quality.
2. The pass through boxes are done by the thousands, so feel free to buy the $4 cover plates. I get 50 of them at once and the time vs cost vs no one ever caring...it's just silly to even bring up. People want a good contractor to make sure the tv is secure and level.. make a better video.
@@BTheInstaller I feel you it's a business. I shortcut sometimes too depending on the customer. Most people just don't want to see wires.
@@BTheInstaller you never addressed the electrical code issue though. There has to be a reason for that code and I don’t want my house burning down over a sound bar. Any thoughts on if it’s a serious electrical code or not?
Can I run speaker cables inside the wall? Is it against the code?
Hahaha secured audio to power source cord...you are amazing
That’s a great way to introduce interference into your audio signal. Oh well
Ahh the US, where you can cut a hole in the wall .... using a knife.
Meanwhile in the Netherlands I'm using power tools to cut channels into the wall 🤣
balance concrete walls vs gypsum walls where rawl plugs get ripped out, i prefer concrete.
Big thanks for making this instructional video, it was a big help.
Absolutely.
Holy zip tie spaghetti... The last two minutes really triggered my OCD 😂🤣
But it DOES look great from the side it needs to look great at!!
lol me too
There's an old saying "You don't look at the mantlepiece while stoking the fire" or in this case "you don't look at the zip tied cables while watching the TV" aka "out of sight, out of mind". Enjoy.
I will say this is a good tutorial, few key elements should be better, upgrade the type of receptacle (better quality), The code should be above the desition of the customer. The project looks good nice clean.
Have you seen the combo high-voltage/low-voltage combination 2-gang boxes so that you can put one box behind the tv
Is that even to code? High voltage and low voltage in the same gang box?
They're split, but u don't use that because many times I have to only run power or only do low voltage. So the singles are much more flexible.
Truly enjoyed this video. Keep them coming.
Thank you! Will do!
Great how to video... Thanks.. I just have one questions.. Instead of having to use 2 face plates, why didn't you just use a 2 gang box and faceplate?
Spoken like a pro!
Because you don't want to mix low-voltage and line voltage cables in the same box. Check the NEC for restrictions...
[Edit: you can't squeeze the HDMI connector through the small knockout tab on the back of the box, either...]
I'm not doing it because of that... its just much faster and easier to have single gang boxes because many clients don't run hdmi so I sometimes do power only, sometimes I'm only running LV, so I just use 2 and the holes is always 3.75x5.5 inches. Do something tens of thousands of times and you make yourself more efficient so you can spend time with the kids, lol
I liked how you hooked up electric wires.,good job with every everything else also
And that electrical is certainly not up to code. But that's OK, what's a little fire in basement going to hurt.
Turn your breaker off to this outlet people please 😂. You're gonna shock the shit out of yourself and trip the box to go off anyways. 😂
Wow, incredible video. The most thorough on this type of install I’ve seen. Great job. Earned a subscriber!
Would look much better if you bought a double female hdmi piece to screw on to the plate... then the hdmi would be hidden in the wall and the plate would have an hdmi input plug 👍
or as many as the tv has so you can use all the inputs eventually if desired...as well as a plate for that speaker power...why not just make another plate like the first with the round hole...and use the same method to keep it consistent...
They make plates and keystone couplers that can be mounted usually up to six in a plate. www.amazon.ca/Keystone-Coupler-VCE-5-PACK-Adapter/dp/B01N5PW5G3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=HDMI+rack+connector&qid=1633301449&sr=8-5 and www.amazon.ca/dp/B07GRWQLRN/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07GRWQLRN&pd_rd_w=HfJs8&pf_rd_p=b70ec263-55c4-45fa-924e-32fc8b5c5e85&pd_rd_wg=19KFF&pf_rd_r=BQXKH90XHHECS7A9WDR7&pd_rd_r=5a2a8a1c-1109-42a8-90c7-f488529f95fb&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR1JMMkI4MTY2QTg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA5ODQ4M1FWVzBNQ0pTUlkxOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzkxMzg0MlIyQ1I0NEpYODZXSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
🔴 First at all turn the breaker box off or just the specific room.
Great video!
Thanks Rob Dyrdek
Had to double take when I saw the thumbnail in my feed and then hop in the comments to make sure I wasn't the only one 🤣 i love rob
Time is money, and you did a very god job. Just another few seconds to roll up each wire and zip them individually would have been the cherry on the sundae. again, nicely done though, looks fantastic.
absolutely. because this video is absolutely crushing it, ill make some more with better cleanliness. I'm thinking one over a fireplace as it's way more complicated. i think many may like that.
@@BTheInstaller I've always wanted to do that with mine but was scared that it would get too hot above the fireplace. I guess I've never actually felt the bricks to see if they're hot, I just know heats rises...
Nice install but I’m struggling with the “not to code, the customer knows the risk, but still want it that way.” As a pro, I think that you need to ensure you follow code, even if it’s more expensive. You could have opened up the wall in front of the stud, chipped off a bit of stud, ran the electrical across the stud, put in a nail plate, and spackled a piece of drywall you cut out over it. But that’s my opinion. Otherwise, good, quick, efficient job.
Does code apply to low voltage such as what he was running. Is it any different from a doorbell or thermostat wire? Or do those also have to run along studs?
Neither of the things mentioned here are code relevant. Low voltage wiring can be in wall... the power cord for the sound bar is not proper regardless of how it's done. Every tv installer gets a person per day asking them to bury power wires. I don't tell people to do it.
Best video l have watched on youtube in a long time..you shared so many actionable ideas thank you!
Appreciated. Glad it helped.
Great video! Unfortunately, not that useful in EU 'cuz almost every time one needs to deal with concrete/brick walls and without a "wall chaser" (or whatever it's called) you'll have to hide wires under a cheap plastic housing ((
I did all this except the hole behind the soundbard .I'm using the little cover plate that comes with the Boss speaker and I hated. I will try this thanks 👍🏼👍🏼
yeah i get to the sound bars and people do NOT want to see that amount of cord after all the work that goes into the installs. i'm going to do some better installs, this was rushed...
All the Europeans watching him cut the wall so easily: "Wait that's illegal!"
Exactly, it’s ok if your house is made from balsa wood and paper mache. Good luck doing this in brick and stone!
@@wookeybradbury totally! The best option we have is to hide the wiring with flat wire housing through the outside of the wall.
Must suck having a house you can't mod.
@@thatpaulschofield well you can, just not as easily. But it's a bit more work for a regular person to embed stuff into the wall so we generally just go for exterior rails to hide the cables.
But it's not all bad, tbh I get a little disturbed when I see american house reno shows and how easily you can break the drywall... just a harder bump and you have a dent in your wall, here you don't have that risk.
@@wookeybradbury no house in America is made from balsa and paper mache.
You should do cable concealment on right side of bottom outlet, drill through the stud to come out right under and catch romex from box . I use chain and magnetic stick . This way you would create top electrical and and cable concealment in the middle and run cords from soundbar in the same isle.
And brush plates look much more professional then faceplates with drilled hole .
Otherwise pretty clean and at least you know that power cables can’t be ran in wall . Most “ techs “ just don’t
Why wouldn’t you use a double gang box? The wires would have been separated, and it would look cleaner.
Agreed man, ya that looks awful i would fire any worker that did that for me . or could of used a power Bridge kit for people who are uncomfortable dealing with electrical. And ya super simple for non insulated wall with no firebreaks either .lol
Low voltage and power have to be separated...whats worse is 14 guage is only good for 15 amp circuits and back stabbing receps is SUPER not pref
@@tevandorian1744 - I knew about the backstabbing, but I think it’s stupid that you can’t use a double gang. I’m not saying that you are wrong, because I did look this up. I just think it’s pointless work to add another box. One would think that as long as the wires are not coming out of the same side it would be ok.
@@tevandorian1744 what else isnt pref... calling yourself an expert and buying blank faceplates to drill out when for a few. Cents more You can buy face plates that already have holes in In them. This guy's a clown and probably gets all his information of Google.
@@tevandorian1744 well your statement is invalid due to the fact he ran both wires right next to each other so the separation statement wouldnt work.. now with audio and non insulated wires i would say yes separate. But with the insulation on both the romex and thick ass hdmi cable he ran a double box would work in this situation. Ran it by my electrician and he agreed.
I followed your "The Frame" install guide -- so far so good, and better than the included instructions. I'm stuck on the fish tape -- my home has pre-installed tubes from the wall to the outlet at the bottom of the wall, a 90 degree turn. Somewhere in the middle the fish tape hits something, both directions. No idea how to trouble shoot this. Any thoughts on another method?
Given the tube is pre-installed, I would hope it'd be a fairly simple operation, but no dice!
Wow!! You make it look so easy!!! Well done.
Well, I do it many times, lol. I think many can do it though. The wonders of RUclips.
Data COMM makes recessed box kits that make this process much easier and cleaner.
Great video! And what took you 30 min would have taken me about 4 hours :)
✌ back in the day, it did take much longer.
Beautiful finish!
Dame haven't seen Mr.Yuck in a while. You definitely gave your age away, lol🤣👏,me too now🤫
I stole it from the internet. I had no idea what it was.. but my wife is from PA and also didn't know what it was. But I'm old either way
@@BTheInstaller It's a Classic 80's sticker you put on Chemicals so little ones don't touch it. It saved uncountable lives💯 no doubt about that. That and the Garbage Pale Kids need to make a come back🤭🤣👍🎉.
I'm all about the 80s and 90s. Give me some snoop and Dre, poison, not like the chemicals haha, over any shit on today.
@@BTheInstaller Facts but in the 80's Dre was in Sequence Outfits🥿(until last few yrs) and snoop wasn't heard of until 90'S & that's a different story. Good shit though specially 92 when everyone dropped 🎉but that's also when True Hip Hop started to Die😔Unfortunately.
Man I had a Mr Yuck 15" vinyl sticker on the back window of my truck. good vid
Looks good. Any suggestions for those who have dot & dab fixed plasterboard over brick? The gap between the plasterboard and brick is about 5mm.
- I'm guessing cut a slot in the plasterboard and repair it after ?
they have HDMI cover plates
Loving this install tutorial! Thank you for making this video!