Great ideas for annual checks. A couple of items we also do: 1) open up the fridge vent to vaccum the back, blow out the tubes and ensure the condensation tube is clear 2) spray the propane hose and connections with soapy water to check for any leaks, 3) look for any rust under the battery box rails/tounge , bumper etc. and touch up the paint to limit suface rust from spreading
I have the Zero G and Flexzilla hoses too. I fill my hoses twice a season with a bleach/water mix and leave for a couple of hours and then hook them up to a spigot and run water through them for a while. That way I can replace the hoses less frequently. Those hoses aren't cheap!
I have seen full-timers say that they sanitize their water systems 2x a year with bleach and water and leave the solution at least 12 hours, 24 is preferable, that way it has really done its job. I'm not a full-timer, but I'm about to sanitize our water system using this method just to be sure after seeing some people post that they have gotten legionnaire's disease from their RV water system, especially if it has been sitting for some time-yikes!
Once a year take a multibit screw driver and go around and tighten every screw you can find. An advanced version is to get a torque driver and tighten the electrical connections. Lots of things work loose while bouncing down the road.
Great info !!! Also blow out the dust in the water heater burner tube and open the refrigerator exterior vent panel and blow out the dust from around the burner and blow out the dust on the upper refrigerator vent. Then check battery water level.
You definitely want to have a second ABC fire extinguisher available, but you want it separate from the main one. As a retired firefighter/ paramedic I've seen too many cases where either the first one used failed or the fire was too close to the primary one. With a 5th wheel, I'd carry one with the tow vehicle so it has one while away from the rig then two on the rig. If you've ever seen an RV burning you'd carry bigger extinguishers. If you have a local RV club, arrange for a local Extinguisher provider to put on a hands-on demo where everyone gets to use one on a small fire. You need to practice the PASS method- Pull pin, Aim at the base of the fire, Squeeze the handle, then Sweep the fire off the fuel bed. Most lay people use it like The Terminator and fail. Get a dual sensor smoke alarm. The cheap ionization ones work well on free-burning fires but you really should have a photosensor for slow smokey fires. Vacuum it annually and replace every 10 yrs. CO alarms are just death alarms. They do NOT protect at chronic or low-level exposures. You want an unlisted CO monitor not listed to UL 2034 or UL 2075. Those stds. set the algorithms such that it does not alert until you theoretically have 10% COHb- carboxyhemoglobin, which is the medical definition of CO poisoning for a smoker. I carry my same Inspector Pro model that I wear every day: sensorcon.com/pages/co-collection I wear it on planes, RV but especially in hotels and restaurants, which is where it alerts most often. Get the Pro intrinsically safe model. You toss them after 2 hrs but what is your life worth? Propane is heavier than air to make sure yours is mounted right at the floor level as shown by Jared. You must use a non-corrosive soap bubble solution or rinse well because the chlorine in soaps will cause stress cracking in brass. Using an open flame to check for leaks is stupid not only for the obvious insanity- most plumbers do it. The lower explosive limit for LP is 2.15% by volume. That means 21,500 parts per million before it theoretically should be capable of igniting. Most, but not all humans are sensitive to the odorants used with NG and LP gas. Typically it is ethyl or methyl mercaptan but there are about 2 dozen compounds used. Most smell similar to rotten eggs from the sulphur. They can typically be detected by humans in the range of a few parts per billion. Therefore, if you detect a Whiff of Jiff, don't panic. Typical electronic sniffers can detect methane (NG) no lower than 10ppm with 50 ppm the most common. Some of these same sniffers won't detect LP lower than 500 ppm. Commercially prepared soap bubble solns are the best. You can get them from HVAC and plumbing supply houses. High viscosity fluids aren't blown away so easily by higher level leaks while those nuisance micro leaks require a thin-film low viscosity soln. I like www.refrigtech.com/big-blu/ as I'm nowadays a HVAC/ fireplace trainer/ technician. Note all gas valves have an allowed trace gas leakage rate per ANSI- American National Standards Institute. It calls for max. 225ppm leakage through the gas valve seals and 235 ppm through the main operator to the burner at 3/4 psi or 21 wci. Even space ships and submarines leak. HTH
I put a smaller whiteboard by the door to write down things I need to repair before our next trip. It's easy to think of something that needs to be done when you find a problem, but just as easy to forget to do the repair after you get home. When the problem is fixed, erase it from the board. I can see the board every time I walk out the door, so I remember what needs to be fixed. The whiteboard works great for winterizing/de-winterizing reminders also. There's always something I forgot to do, but now I can write it down to help me remember. Very inexpensive item and it can be attached to wall with Command strips so no damage to walls. Our board came with different colored markers so I color code repairs need with different colors depending on importance of repairs.
Lubricate the rubber seals around the doors and slides, check the caulk around the doors to make sure it hasn't cracked as this happens as the RV twists going down the road and can be a source of water infiltration. Check the sacrificial anode rod on the water tank. Lubricate the wet bolts on the leaf spring hangers if you have them. I clean my water lines with Clorox. Clean the AC filter.
Something else I've found helpful during winterizing is to spray all seals doors and slides with silicone spray, I also spray inside all locks and work key in and out a few times
Pin box bolts should be added too. Used a blue paint pen and mark nuts washer to frame and also bolt washer to frame. It will let you know at a glance if one or more loosen.
Another suggested annual check (ideally before every trip): check the torque on your wheel’s lug nuts. Our system is to do this in conjunction with checking RV tire pressure. Relatedly, it’s a good idea to carry a torque wrench with you, so that you can follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure to check the lug nut torque at prescribed intervals (e.g. 50, 100 & 200 miles) after installing the spare tire on your RV (or tow vehicle). And be sure to torque the lug nuts in a “cross pattern” (e.g. tighten / check the nuts at the 11 o’clock & 5 o’clock positions; 1 & 7; then 9 & 3 o’clock, instead of checking them one by one in a clockwise/ counterclockwise circle). One last thing: when was the last time you checked the tire pressure in your spare - both the RV & tow vehicle?
everyone should know where the fire exts are and know how to use them! We have one in the cab of the truck, one in the bed of the truck, one in the basement storage of the rv, two at the entry/exit of the fifth wheel rv, and one mounted in the bedroom of the rv! Yes I know, overkill, but that is better than not having any. Having one can be like having none if it fails! They are cheaper than a funeral, Keep sending these great videos, you never know when one just may save someone a lot of trouble. There are a lot of rver's that have no clue!
You should also check your frame near your axles for cracks in the I beams under your trailer . The cracks will be about 1 inch above the lower flange of the I beam . Also the spring shackles and springs . Then for 5th wheels the cargo to goose neck frame work for cracks .
Toilet bowl cleaner will also clean those contacts without having to rub or scrub. It'll do trailer connections on the back of your truck or camper. Pretty good stuff
Jared, I totally enjoy your videos. and have incorporated many of your ideas...thanks! As a former (retired) firefighter and instructor, I ask you to consider the following regarding fire extinguishers: First, purchase a better ABC fire extinguisher (or two). Get one that is larger, and make sure you are prepared to use them. Many better options out there than what is supplied by manufacturers. Replace anything older than three to five years...-please! . Every few months, take the extinguisher, and turn it on its side, so the powder inside moves around. Tap it lightly with a hammer to move the powder around. Again, after 3-5 years, simply replace them. Sorry...seems like a waste, and some fire departments will take the old extinguishers for training purposes, but many will not.
Another great video. I always learn so much! Thanks… Can you do a detailed video on how to repack your wheel bearings and the tools and supplies required?
"South Main Auto's" mechanic did a two-part video on trailer brake replacement and bearing maintenance. His videos are very informative and useful. I have referenced his work a couple of times for this and other work I have done.
Find out what axle you have or pull the brake drum and check the part number on your grease seal. You'll need to replace those when you pull the bearings.
Great post! I put all maintenance issues in an electronic calendar that reminds me to do them. Works great since you can set them up for once a month, once a quarter, once a year, or any other variant.
some good tips found another Tip instead of self leveling caulking for roof every yr .Water proof home deck .flashing tape .starting at back taping for ward so wind can't work on edge and begin lifting .theres a you tube video for this . says it lasts around 5yrs.
Every year I flush out my holding tanks really good with a tool I have that goes on the end of the hose. I don’t have a tank sprayer built in my holding tanks..
Great info. Would love to see a video on how you pack your wheel bearings and what tools and grease you use. Going to have to do it sometime this year I think. I also tend to forget to lubricate the seals and slide railing. I try and do it twice a year.
Good tip for Power connections: never plug in or unplug with the post breaker on. If power is on when you plug in it will arc and burn you connect surface.
I'm sure Jared meant to include cleaning and protecting the 7-pin connector on the trailer's power cord that snicks into the tow vehicle's receptacle AND the TV's receptacle as well. Because we try to reduce the number of 'things' we carry, we do this with Boeshield T-9 since we also use it for other things.
I keep my unit plugged I all year, it’s a good idea to add water to your RV batteries twice a year. The water level in your batteries can get low and toast them.
As always you are the best at making the mundane interesting and relevant. All great ideas. The hoses were especially enlightening. We are not full timers so after most trips I run a bleach solution through my drinking water hose and soak all connection devices in the same solution.
I’ve melted on before . My 5th wheel stays hooked at a site year round so you clean your plug every time you plug it in and unplug so I clean my plugs and clean the with sandpaper and put electrolyte grease on my plug at the end of the year. My camper sits under a 24’ X 53’ cover and I love it it never leaks and the sun doesn’t bake you !
My state requires trailers w/ brakes need safety inspected. I had my tires rotated and hope they checked my brakes, because I only had one tire torqued to specs. They did replace the brake controller.
Wow, we're full time - stationary and I've never thought to check out the drinking water hose. OR the power cord. So thanks for these tips. I'll keep up on those two from now on.
Good video. Many don't understand the importance of the breakaway switch or anything else you covered. There is probably no worse feeling than when you really really need a fire extinguishers and it doesn't work. Have more than you think you need.
Dry chem extinguishers should have pressure on the gauge & be shaken gently & tapped on end while holding at least horizontally to ensure no caked powder, feel the powder moving, do this annually at least
+ sanitize the fresh tank, when de-winterizing + check pin box bolts, I have a turning point so it's extra important. + check lug nuts, at least once a year depending on how far you drive + descale the water heater. I do a vinegar soak with a PVC filler tube + lube suspension bolts, wet bolts are great + propane leak check, with manometer.
Just to help out, on the little extinguisher that green post on the activation handle IS a pressure gauge. It's not as reliable as the round ones but it'll let you know if a slow leak has caused a failure.
I have a Berkey filter for drinking water, so I don't care about my hoses, my tank and even where I take my water. Doing a lot of boondocking not to be worry about getting potable water is a great benefit. Thank about the tip of cleaning electrical extension and breakaway cable
I used to use Berkey Filters, until I tested them after using them just two weeks, and they were not working at all! Put new ones in and checked after another two weeks, and same results, I don't trust them. I buy 3 gallon water bottles, and carry 9 gallons of Drinking water with me! Refill the Bottles at a Water Store.
Make sure the fire extinguisher powder is loose in the tank by rolling on the table. The vibration of travel tends to pack the powder making it a solid block. Not good when you need it!
The green pin on the top of your fire extinguisher is the “test” button for that style. Just push the pin down to test, if you feel resistance and the pin pops back up it’s good to go.
One small correction. When you were talking about the Breakaway Switch at the point you used the meter, you said 13 amps instead of 13 volts. If you put 13 amps to that small wire you would smoke the wire.
I will also use a small amount of Dielectric grease on any contacts that will not come in contact with the ground after I clean them. Qtips or weapon cleaning swabs work great for applying.
Not a good idea on the contacts. Dielectric grease is an insulator and reduces contact. Deoxit leaves be a protective barrier against corrosion and improves the contact by removing corrosion.
Good list to check. On your original extinguisher, that green plastic indicator is your pressure indicator. If green is showing, its pressurized, if not time to replace. Other annual items I check: check /clean battery terminals, check battery water level (lead acid battery), I dry lube all our locks, check springs/shackles on both inside and out while repacking the bearings.
The proper way to check the pressure on a fire extinguisher without a dial gauge is to press the green button in and release it. If it pops back out it’s serviceable. If it stays in it has failed.
I just use regular garden hose to fill my water tank. They say to use the white RV hose, but after 25 years of RVing I'm still here healthy as a lame horse. I have no illusions that I will live forever so.... keep on RVing
Excellent information as always Jared. Especially the Breakaway testing process. Currently thinking about inspecting and repacking the bearings on the rig.
Hi,Big Ben 🇨🇦🐴🙂 , liked how you cleaned break away switch but didn't do 7wire RV plug with deoxit, actually put plug facing down in propane cover to keep moisture out and bought a cap for tow vehicle and trailer ,truck parts place had.Also I would like to mentioned torque wheel nuts could save your life and save money on rim and tire...👍🇨🇦🐴🙂 great videos..
Thanks helpful video. The tiny fire extinguisher that comes with an RV is inadequate. I agree, buy two bigger ones with gages. Put one in the RV and the other in the tow vehicle. Hopefully you will never need them. I had to use one of mine putting out an RV hot water heater in the trailer a few sites away from me once. Inside were an elderly couple and had no idea they were on fire. I also use a sharpie and write the year it was new on them. Then when they are about 5 years old I buy a new one keeping the old one for the garage or somewhere else. Take care.
I check all the screw on and under my slide outs. I have seen screws in the slide out come loose and scratch the floor going in and out so I look a few times a year.
At the start of every trailering season I verify that my weight distribution set up, including hitch height is still correct. Learned that especially with a new hitch, there can be some part fatigue (fitment wear or chain stretch) that relaxes the amount of WD running over first several trips. Change my tires? Check my hitch height. Some folks may be changing how much they load front storage and need more distribution too, so a periodic check is a good thing.
Very nicely done as usual. If have a Rode Armor pin box that I would be willing to donate to you. It came on my cougar 29rli and my truck had a gooseneck pall set up when I bought it. Installed a goose box, I will post up a video so that you can see it.
I check my extinguishers every three months. Bearing buddies are great to be able to go around and add grease once a month and greatly extend your bearing life. I honestly don't care a lot for the "approved" breakaway switches; I've seen them fail too often both electrically and as a firefighter at an accident scene saw one where the cable snapped and the pin was still stuck in there.
I had to come back after checking my fresh water hose. I've never cleaned it and I've had it for over 6 years. There's nothing growing in it. I actually had something growing in my fresh water tank when I first got my camper. I found some kind of brownish flake in my water filter screen and then vinegared my tank liberally. It look a really long time to stop smelling vinegar in the hot water specially, but when I'd refill water (I've never filled my tank without using a charcoal filter) I'd completely drain the previous tankful and catch it in a clear cup so I could monitor how much particulate was in it. Eventually the water came out perfectly clean with nothing in the wire mesh strainer (it also has one of those filter stones). I also have accidently filled my tank with a brand new charcoal filter so I bunch of activated charcoal was dumped right into it, wonder if that helped clean it out. But the hose has never even been suspect. I do, with both my fresh water hose and my black tank sprayer hose, recoil the hose every time in a way that drains all the water out. I wonder if that may be why there's no growth in it. That being said, maybe I just can't see it so I'm going to vacuum a string into it and pull a damp alcohol swab through it to see if something might be in there. I have a new bore scope, I can see 15ft into it with that. I might try that first. Actually, I don't think my fresh water hose is much longer than 10 feet come to think of it.
Good list. I’ve got some things to do in the spring… Pulling the breakaway pin IS the prescribed method for testing trailer brakes at roadside brake checkpoints, where mandated. For this purpose there’s no risk to the battery or the brake system, as it’s only for a minute or so.
I got a Bi-annual "Grease-day" in my calendar as a recurring event. The drivetrain has a bunch of grease points, all those door and compartment hinges also love a small amount of spray. Also on since I got a Class A- every annual "Grease-day" there is also the time for generator, transmission and differential Oil change.
Great list of items to check for sure. Just making sure everyone knows where the fire extinguishers are is super important - hopefully never have to use them.
Thanks Jared, I’ve been eyeballing that breakaway switch for awhile; you have motivated me to inspect and clean that item. I guess I was nervous about pulling the pin on something to see if it works.
Do you have a recommendation on where to learn how to properly inspect and adjust brakes? I know there are a lot of RUclips video's out there, but its hard to know who to trust that they teaching the proper methods and they don't seem to go into detail on what to look for. Thanks for your video's, they very clear and informative!
Being a retired truck driver, i also carry a fire extinguisher in my pickup. Better safe than sorry. I certainly enjoy your videos
Great tip!
Can give them a good shake to build the pressure as well.
Great ideas for annual checks. A couple of items we also do: 1) open up the fridge vent to vaccum the back, blow out the tubes and ensure the condensation tube is clear 2) spray the propane hose and connections with soapy water to check for any leaks, 3) look for any rust under the battery box rails/tounge , bumper etc. and touch up the paint to limit suface rust from spreading
I have the Zero G and Flexzilla hoses too. I fill my hoses twice a season with a bleach/water mix and leave for a couple of hours and then hook them up to a spigot and run water through them for a while. That way I can replace the hoses less frequently. Those hoses aren't cheap!
Good process for cleaning them!
Do something at end of a weekend hook the ends together and leave tall next time.
I have seen full-timers say that they sanitize their water systems 2x a year with bleach and water and leave the solution at least 12 hours, 24 is preferable, that way it has really done its job. I'm not a full-timer, but I'm about to sanitize our water system using this method just to be sure after seeing some people post that they have gotten legionnaire's disease from their RV water system, especially if it has been sitting for some time-yikes!
Once a year take a multibit screw driver and go around and tighten every screw you can find. An advanced version is to get a torque driver and tighten the electrical connections. Lots of things work loose while bouncing down the road.
Good one to add to the list.
I put lock tight on all my trim screws, but some still work lose.
Great info !!! Also blow out the dust in the water heater burner tube and open the refrigerator exterior vent panel and blow out the dust from around the burner and blow out the dust on the upper refrigerator vent. Then check battery water level.
The green pin on your fire extinguisher is kinda the gauge (press down if it springs back up it’s good)
Compass at the brakes, nice tip!
You definitely want to have a second ABC fire extinguisher available, but you want it separate from the main one. As a retired firefighter/ paramedic I've seen too many cases where either the first one used failed or the fire was too close to the primary one. With a 5th wheel, I'd carry one with the tow vehicle so it has one while away from the rig then two on the rig. If you've ever seen an RV burning you'd carry bigger extinguishers.
If you have a local RV club, arrange for a local Extinguisher provider to put on a hands-on demo where everyone gets to use one on a small fire. You need to practice the PASS method- Pull pin, Aim at the base of the fire, Squeeze the handle, then Sweep the fire off the fuel bed. Most lay people use it like The Terminator and fail.
Get a dual sensor smoke alarm. The cheap ionization ones work well on free-burning fires but you really should have a photosensor for slow smokey fires. Vacuum it annually and replace every 10 yrs.
CO alarms are just death alarms. They do NOT protect at chronic or low-level exposures. You want an unlisted CO monitor not listed to UL 2034 or UL 2075. Those stds. set the algorithms such that it does not alert until you theoretically have 10% COHb- carboxyhemoglobin, which is the medical definition of CO poisoning for a smoker. I carry my same Inspector Pro model that I wear every day: sensorcon.com/pages/co-collection I wear it on planes, RV but especially in hotels and restaurants, which is where it alerts most often. Get the Pro intrinsically safe model. You toss them after 2 hrs but what is your life worth?
Propane is heavier than air to make sure yours is mounted right at the floor level as shown by Jared. You must use a non-corrosive soap bubble solution or rinse well because the chlorine in soaps will cause stress cracking in brass. Using an open flame to check for leaks is stupid not only for the obvious insanity- most plumbers do it. The lower explosive limit for LP is 2.15% by volume. That means 21,500 parts per million before it theoretically should be capable of igniting. Most, but not all humans are sensitive to the odorants used with NG and LP gas. Typically it is ethyl or methyl mercaptan but there are about 2 dozen compounds used. Most smell similar to rotten eggs from the sulphur. They can typically be detected by humans in the range of a few parts per billion. Therefore, if you detect a Whiff of Jiff, don't panic. Typical electronic sniffers can detect methane (NG) no lower than 10ppm with 50 ppm the most common. Some of these same sniffers won't detect LP lower than 500 ppm. Commercially prepared soap bubble solns are the best. You can get them from HVAC and plumbing supply houses. High viscosity fluids aren't blown away so easily by higher level leaks while those nuisance micro leaks require a thin-film low viscosity soln. I like www.refrigtech.com/big-blu/ as I'm nowadays a HVAC/ fireplace trainer/ technician. Note all gas valves have an allowed trace gas leakage rate per ANSI- American National Standards Institute. It calls for max. 225ppm leakage through the gas valve seals and 235 ppm through the main operator to the burner at 3/4 psi or 21 wci. Even space ships and submarines leak.
HTH
Amazing information. Thank you
I put a smaller whiteboard by the door to write down things I need to repair before our next trip. It's easy to think of something that needs to be done when you find a problem, but just as easy to forget to do the repair after you get home. When the problem is fixed, erase it from the board. I can see the board every time I walk out the door, so I remember what needs to be fixed. The whiteboard works great for winterizing/de-winterizing reminders also. There's always something I forgot to do, but now I can write it down to help me remember. Very inexpensive item and it can be attached to wall with Command strips so no damage to walls. Our board came with different colored markers so I color code repairs need with different colors depending on importance of repairs.
Lubricate the rubber seals around the doors and slides, check the caulk around the doors to make sure it hasn't cracked as this happens as the RV twists going down the road and can be a source of water infiltration. Check the sacrificial anode rod on the water tank. Lubricate the wet bolts on the leaf spring hangers if you have them. I clean my water lines with Clorox.
Clean the AC filter.
Sanitize the water tanks. And check the water heater rob and get new water filters
Check axels alignment
Something else I've found helpful during winterizing is to spray all seals doors and slides with silicone spray, I also spray inside all locks and work key in and out a few times
yes i do this even with my trucks and skiding doors and windows in home . makes everything new again ! great tip.
Clean the fan blades on the bathroom and kitchen fans. Also soak the microwave filters in Dawn and thoroughly rinse them to breakdown grease.
Pin box bolts should be added too. Used a blue paint pen and mark nuts washer to frame and also bolt washer to frame. It will let you know at a glance if one or more loosen.
I like the marking idea
I follow this man faithfully as he is the best!!
Another suggested annual check (ideally before every trip): check the torque on your wheel’s lug nuts. Our system is to do this in conjunction with checking RV tire pressure. Relatedly, it’s a good idea to carry a torque wrench with you, so that you can follow the manufacturer’s recommended procedure to check the lug nut torque at prescribed intervals (e.g. 50, 100 & 200 miles) after installing the spare tire on your RV (or tow vehicle). And be sure to torque the lug nuts in a “cross pattern” (e.g. tighten / check the nuts at the 11 o’clock & 5 o’clock positions; 1 & 7; then 9 & 3 o’clock, instead of checking them one by one in a clockwise/ counterclockwise circle). One last thing: when was the last time you checked the tire pressure in your spare - both the RV & tow vehicle?
everyone should know where the fire exts are and know how to use them! We have one in the cab of the truck, one in the bed of the truck, one in the basement storage of the rv, two at the entry/exit of the fifth wheel rv, and one mounted in the bedroom of the rv! Yes I know, overkill, but that is better than not having any. Having one can be like having none if it fails! They are cheaper than a funeral, Keep sending these great videos, you never know when one just may save someone a lot of trouble. There are a lot of rver's that have no clue!
You should also check your frame near your axles for cracks in the I beams under your trailer . The cracks will be about 1 inch above the lower flange of the I beam . Also the spring shackles and springs . Then for 5th wheels the cargo to goose neck frame work for cracks .
Toilet bowl cleaner will also clean those contacts without having to rub or scrub. It'll do trailer connections on the back of your truck or camper. Pretty good stuff
Wow! I really enjoyed ur video & learned a few things. Even though its an older video, I'm glad I didn't skip it.
Jared, I totally enjoy your videos. and have incorporated many of your ideas...thanks! As a former (retired) firefighter and instructor, I ask you to consider the following regarding fire extinguishers: First, purchase a better ABC fire extinguisher (or two). Get one that is larger, and make sure you are prepared to use them. Many better options out there than what is supplied by manufacturers. Replace anything older than three to five years...-please! . Every few months, take the extinguisher, and turn it on its side, so the powder inside moves around. Tap it lightly with a hammer to move the powder around. Again, after 3-5 years, simply replace them. Sorry...seems like a waste, and some fire departments will take the old extinguishers for training purposes, but many will not.
When replacing, use your old ones to train your family members how to properly use the extinguisher.
Great idea with the clamp on meter and or compass to test emergency break away switch.
Thanks
Another great video. I always learn so much! Thanks… Can you do a detailed video on how to repack your wheel bearings and the tools and supplies required?
"South Main Auto's" mechanic did a two-part video on trailer brake replacement and bearing maintenance. His videos are very informative and useful. I have referenced his work a couple of times for this and other work I have done.
@@ryanwaltos2206 Geat info, thanks!
Find out what axle you have or pull the brake drum and check the part number on your grease seal. You'll need to replace those when you pull the bearings.
Great post! I put all maintenance issues in an electronic calendar that reminds me to do them. Works great since you can set them up for once a month, once a quarter, once a year, or any other variant.
some good tips found another Tip instead of self leveling caulking for roof every yr .Water proof home deck .flashing tape .starting at back taping for ward so wind can't work on edge and begin lifting .theres a you tube video for this . says it lasts around 5yrs.
Every year I flush out my holding tanks really good with a tool I have that goes on the end of the hose. I don’t have a tank sprayer built in my holding tanks..
I sanitize the hose when I sanitize the tank and water filter housings.
Great info. Would love to see a video on how you pack your wheel bearings and what tools and grease you use. Going to have to do it sometime this year I think. I also tend to forget to lubricate the seals and slide railing. I try and do it twice a year.
Good tip for Power connections: never plug in or unplug with the post breaker on. If power is on when you plug in it will arc and burn you connect surface.
I'm sure Jared meant to include cleaning and protecting the 7-pin connector on the trailer's power cord that snicks into the tow vehicle's receptacle AND the TV's receptacle as well. Because we try to reduce the number of 'things' we carry, we do this with Boeshield T-9 since we also use it for other things.
Good call on the 7 pin
I keep my unit plugged I all year, it’s a good idea to add water to your RV batteries twice a year. The water level in your batteries can get low and toast them.
Excellent maintenance tips I haven’t seen anywhere else. Thankyou!
As always you are the best at making the mundane interesting and relevant. All great ideas. The hoses were especially enlightening. We are not full timers so after most trips I run a bleach solution through my drinking water hose and soak all connection devices in the same solution.
I also flush and thoroughly clean out the water heater tank , and if you have an Atwood replace the anode rod.
I’ve melted on before . My 5th wheel stays hooked at a site year round so you clean your plug every time you plug it in and unplug so I clean my plugs and clean the with sandpaper and put electrolyte grease on my plug at the end of the year. My camper sits under a 24’ X 53’ cover and I love it it never leaks and the sun doesn’t bake you !
My state requires trailers w/ brakes need safety inspected. I had my tires rotated and hope they checked my brakes, because I only had one tire torqued to specs. They did replace the brake controller.
Good point on some states require the test.
Wow, we're full time - stationary and I've never thought to check out the drinking water hose. OR the power cord. So thanks for these tips. I'll keep up on those two from now on.
The brake was a good thing thanks
Battery fluid level for sure, cleaning solar panels and cleaning the awing / slide cover. Great info thank you !!
Good video. Many don't understand the importance of the breakaway switch or anything else you covered. There is probably no worse feeling than when you really really need a fire extinguishers and it doesn't work. Have more than you think you need.
I really enjoy your style and the information is fantastic. Thanks for doing this and please keep doing them.
Your videos are 100 % quality every time.
Did I see a bearing packing tool ?
Also are you going to do a dewinterization video?
Thanks so much.
Dry chem extinguishers should have pressure on the gauge & be shaken gently & tapped on end while holding at least horizontally to ensure no caked powder, feel the powder moving, do this annually at least
Very good review! I like a guy that's "hands on" and gets dirty instead of sitting there talking about it. 👍
I would add sanitize the fresh water tank.
+ sanitize the fresh tank, when de-winterizing
+ check pin box bolts, I have a turning point so it's extra important.
+ check lug nuts, at least once a year depending on how far you drive
+ descale the water heater. I do a vinegar soak with a PVC filler tube
+ lube suspension bolts, wet bolts are great
+ propane leak check, with manometer.
Checking the lug nuts is a good idea. For those reading this, be sure to check with your manufacturer regarding the correct torque specs.
Thank you so much…. For your time,patience and knowledge.
Thanks!
Just to help out, on the little extinguisher that green post on the activation handle IS a pressure gauge. It's not as reliable as the round ones but it'll let you know if a slow leak has caused a failure.
Thanks for the tips! The emergency brake switch and power cord cleaning are being added to my list now!
Good call on the break pin!
I have a Berkey filter for drinking water, so I don't care about my hoses, my tank and even where I take my water. Doing a lot of boondocking not to be worry about getting potable water is a great benefit.
Thank about the tip of cleaning electrical extension and breakaway cable
I used to use Berkey Filters, until I tested them after using them just two weeks, and they were not working at all! Put new ones in and checked after another two weeks, and same results, I don't trust them. I buy 3 gallon water bottles, and carry 9 gallons of Drinking water with me! Refill the Bottles at a Water Store.
@@brianlawliss1080 you mean you did the red dye test and they failed?
Make sure the fire extinguisher powder is loose in the tank by rolling on the table. The vibration of travel tends to pack the powder making it a solid block. Not good when you need it!
The green pin on the top of your fire extinguisher is the “test” button for that style. Just push the pin down to test, if you feel resistance and the pin pops back up it’s good to go.
Good to know; thank you
One small correction. When you were talking about the Breakaway Switch at the point you used the meter, you said 13 amps instead of 13 volts. If you put 13 amps to that small wire you would smoke the wire.
13 amps is correct. That is a non-contact amp meter. You cannot test for exact voltage without contact.
I will also use a small amount of Dielectric grease on any contacts that will not come in contact with the ground after I clean them. Qtips or weapon cleaning swabs work great for applying.
Not a good idea on the contacts. Dielectric grease is an insulator and reduces contact. Deoxit leaves be a protective barrier against corrosion and improves the contact by removing corrosion.
Good list to check. On your original extinguisher, that green plastic indicator is your pressure indicator. If green is showing, its pressurized, if not time to replace. Other annual items I check: check /clean battery terminals, check battery water level (lead acid battery), I dry lube all our locks, check springs/shackles on both inside and out while repacking the bearings.
The proper way to check the pressure on a fire extinguisher without a dial gauge is to press the green button in and release it. If it pops back out it’s serviceable. If it stays in it has failed.
@@Thunderbolt75 yup, and if its its not showing without testing its bad too.....
Great channel, helped me validate my EcoFlow DeltaPro purchase for home and RV use. Thanks
Good information. We will be checking our trailer as well.
Hey, your list of 5 things you do every year is exactly the same as my list of 5 things I never do!
Nice!
Add a little dielectric grease
Thanks for your videos. I'll add these to our long trip check list.
Great. Thank you and thanks for everyone's comments. Equally as informative.
Thanks!
Well done. Never to old to learn something
I just use regular garden hose to fill my water tank. They say to use the white RV hose, but after 25 years of RVing I'm still here healthy as a lame horse. I have no illusions that I will live forever so.... keep on RVing
Great tips. I find you're videos very informative and will definitely subscribe
Thank you for the great video! I am adding all of these to my list right now.
Great tips! Jarhead is an RV tech so we know how important it is to keep up with the maintenance.
Excellent information as always Jared. Especially the Breakaway testing process. Currently thinking about inspecting and repacking the bearings on the rig.
Great tips and thank you for making these types of videos.
Great list! I also spray my levelers with a dry silicone lube.
Hi,Big Ben 🇨🇦🐴🙂 , liked how you cleaned break away switch but didn't do 7wire RV plug with deoxit, actually put plug facing down in propane cover to keep moisture out and bought a cap for tow vehicle and trailer ,truck parts place had.Also I would like to mentioned torque wheel nuts could save your life and save money on rim and tire...👍🇨🇦🐴🙂 great videos..
Thanks helpful video. The tiny fire extinguisher that comes with an RV is inadequate. I agree, buy two bigger ones with gages. Put one in the RV and the other in the tow vehicle. Hopefully you will never need them. I had to use one of mine putting out an RV hot water heater in the trailer a few sites away from me once. Inside were an elderly couple and had no idea they were on fire. I also use a sharpie and write the year it was new on them. Then when they are about 5 years old I buy a new one keeping the old one for the garage or somewhere else. Take care.
Great ideas, love it!
I check all the screw on and under my slide outs. I have seen screws in the slide out come loose and scratch the floor going in and out so I look a few times a year.
At the start of every trailering season I verify that my weight distribution set up, including hitch height is still correct. Learned that especially with a new hitch, there can be some part fatigue (fitment wear or chain stretch) that relaxes the amount of WD running over first several trips. Change my tires? Check my hitch height. Some folks may be changing how much they load front storage and need more distribution too, so a periodic check is a good thing.
Great list, thanks for the tips, I also have my tanks cleaned and sanitized, kinda goes along with the hoses... Appreciate the channel
have you done a video on repacking bearings from start to finish?
Very nicely done as usual. If have a Rode Armor pin box that I would be willing to donate to you. It came on my cougar 29rli and my truck had a gooseneck pall set up when I bought it. Installed a goose box, I will post up a video so that you can see it.
Thanks for the connector tip and cleaner idea. I’ve never given my ebrake actuator a 2nd thought (yikes). It’s on the list now!
The one thing I thought of was cleaning up seals, and Resealing, but you did say your on the roof many times a year.
I check my extinguishers every three months. Bearing buddies are great to be able to go around and add grease once a month and greatly extend your bearing life. I honestly don't care a lot for the "approved" breakaway switches; I've seen them fail too often both electrically and as a firefighter at an accident scene saw one where the cable snapped and the pin was still stuck in there.
I had to come back after checking my fresh water hose. I've never cleaned it and I've had it for over 6 years. There's nothing growing in it. I actually had something growing in my fresh water tank when I first got my camper. I found some kind of brownish flake in my water filter screen and then vinegared my tank liberally. It look a really long time to stop smelling vinegar in the hot water specially, but when I'd refill water (I've never filled my tank without using a charcoal filter) I'd completely drain the previous tankful and catch it in a clear cup so I could monitor how much particulate was in it. Eventually the water came out perfectly clean with nothing in the wire mesh strainer (it also has one of those filter stones). I also have accidently filled my tank with a brand new charcoal filter so I bunch of activated charcoal was dumped right into it, wonder if that helped clean it out. But the hose has never even been suspect. I do, with both my fresh water hose and my black tank sprayer hose, recoil the hose every time in a way that drains all the water out. I wonder if that may be why there's no growth in it. That being said, maybe I just can't see it so I'm going to vacuum a string into it and pull a damp alcohol swab through it to see if something might be in there. I have a new bore scope, I can see 15ft into it with that. I might try that first. Actually, I don't think my fresh water hose is much longer than 10 feet come to think of it.
Good list. I’ve got some things to do in the spring…
Pulling the breakaway pin IS the prescribed method for testing trailer brakes at roadside brake checkpoints, where mandated. For this purpose there’s no risk to the battery or the brake system, as it’s only for a minute or so.
I got a Bi-annual "Grease-day" in my calendar as a recurring event. The drivetrain has a bunch of grease points, all those door and compartment hinges also love a small amount of spray. Also on since I got a Class A- every annual "Grease-day" there is also the time for generator, transmission and differential Oil change.
Good things to have on the list.
great post again
tytyty for all your knowledge shared
Thanks again.
Dude. Your info is so helpful. Thank you
Checking the amps on the Breakaway switch is very important. My old switch was not working at all.
Good ideas
Thank you
Another great video
Thanks
This info is a little early for me but thanks for the tips!
Great info, Jared. I've never heard of Deoxit before. Sounds like a better idea than how I do the contacts.
Vinny in CT
Thanks Vinny
Great list of items to check for sure. Just making sure everyone knows where the fire extinguishers are is super important - hopefully never have to use them.
Yes, great advice.
As always, excellent information! I’ll be doing these things tomorrow. Except the brakes, I know nothing about those so I have to trust people who do.
Can you talk about stoves in the camper?
Thanks Jared, I’ve been eyeballing that breakaway switch for awhile; you have motivated me to inspect and clean that item. I guess I was nervous about pulling the pin on something to see if it works.
Pulling pins delivers a shot of euphoria but this one isn’t as exciting as a fire extinguisher or grenade pin.
@@preachers4135 🤣
Do you have a recommendation on where to learn how to properly inspect and adjust brakes? I know there are a lot of RUclips video's out there, but its hard to know who to trust that they teaching the proper methods and they don't seem to go into detail on what to look for. Thanks for your video's, they very clear and informative!
Deox-It, but I also add Camco’s PowerGrip Electrical Lubricant! This helps dramatically keep the contacts clean and, well, contacted!