😢The main thing is people never CHANGE THE OIL! It's not that hard to drive to oil change facility that does it for you. It's a whole lot cheaper to change your oil then you're engine! Recommend changing at 5k max if you want to keep your engine in premium condition!
There is a simple action that helps. Check under the hood once a week. Check oil , brake fluid , power steering fluid , engine coolant level , hoses , drive belt , etc . I've been driving since 1968 and checking under the hood is a good habit to have.
Exactly. Probably 99.9% of the additives out there offer zero to little benefit. The only thing they will do, is improve your gas mileage by lightening your wallet.
If oil additives rely Boosted the oils ability to do their job then the oil manufacturers would have already added it. Oil additives are temporary fixes and can not make worn parts get better. It's not medicine for your car.
@@johnbarnett2804 and @rickdonald3617 Not necessarily. Oil manufacturers are restrained by government mandates and edicts...and you know how things get when government gets involved in stuff. Oils made today are not the same as oils from just 30 years ago, and in many cases that makes them worse. Some additives have been deleted because the government claims that they cause chemical reactions to the materials they approved for use in emission doo-dads...and those additives are critical for use in older engines. Now, would you need additives in a brand-new engine of a brand-new car? No. Would you need additives in the engine of a 58-year-old car, even if the engine has gone only three years into a rebuild? *YES.* For instance, new oils are devoid of zinc phosphate per government edict, and that additive is critical for older engines. So, you need to add a $12 bottle of ZDDP to your oil-change bill if you happen to have an older engine. It's not medicine; it's *vitamins.* But you may ask, how about brand-new engines? Granted, car manufacturers have had to alter the metallurgy they employ when producing engines in order to accommodate the government directive on how oil is produced. As a result, they are supposedly designed to withstand the inconvenience of additive starvation...which in part contributes to the much-higher cost of purchase nowadays.
@@postersm7141 yeah, No shit. But if adding even more additives made it even more better then the oil manufacturers would have already done it. Your just messing with the formula that they spent millions to perfect, and Some how Seafoam or STP just knows that their formula can make Any brands formula better. Even tho every brand has their own proprietary blend. Just Snake Oil. I don't put band-aids on my cars. If it has a problem I work on getting it fixed. Not just add a magic potion to it and hope the damage doesn't get to the point of making a engine repair into a engine replacement.
@@dedan2 right!!!!!!! I was thinking the same thing. Hell I paid for the damn thing, I'm going to enjoy it. That doesn't mean I'm going to abuse it but going to USE it!! Just don't rev it until the OIL is up to temp. Not the coolant temp gauge but the oil.
@@orionyesliketheconstellation i have a 2012 mazda 3 and i regularly have to rev the piss out of it to quickly get to speed. but i also drive hard on the backroads so theres that
@@natehill8069even in gear if not needed you don’t need to drive around revving to the redline just to make noise. You’re annoying everyone. Just like those car meets all people do is rev the engine and it’s so annoying.
Good video. Based on what I've noticed, numbers 1, 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are done more often with drivers. Especially, not changing the oil on time. As for a bonus, another costly bad habit I've seen with some drivers is that when they want to shift from drive to reverse or from reverse to drive, they don't let the vehicle stop completely before shifting. Doing that just few times throughout the life of the vehicle doesn't cause any damage, but doing that on a daily basis will eventually result in costly transmission repairs or costly transmission replacement. One more bonus is that some drivers drive on under inflated tires. The vehicle will be less fuel efficient doing that. Also, it'll eventually lead to wear on the tires and more importantly wear and tear on the engine.
One I see a lot especially with manual drivers is they all shift at the red line and I just don’t get it. Hitting the redline once in a while won’t do anything but overtime it’ll shorten the lifespan of the engine. There’s a reason there’s a redline it’s the max pressure the engine can take before killing itself. Every manual driver is see dose this it annoys me.
You should NEVER use additives, pouring random linquids that you think might help, because something catchy is written on the bottle, isnt a good idea. Unless your mechanic told you so or you have the knowledge on how different chemicals in the additive reacts with your oil and it's additives. To preserve your car's health and avoid major problems you should: 1. Do regular maintenance: oil, filter, liquid changes and car inspections (read your owner's manual or search online, on your specific car, how often and what you should change) 2. Dont drive on too low RPM or too high RPM for long periods of time (try to never drive on really low on RPMs, redlining a car once in a while wont damage it if well maintained) 3. Dont rev a cold engine (drive on lower RPMs at least 5-10 minutes before using high RPMs) 4. If you need power use a lower gear: if you are in 5th gear 1500 RPMs, and you want to accelerate hard, downshift to 4th gear (you will get more resposive and faster acceleration without damaging your car)
A pretty interesting and common sense video. However, he needs to be EXTRA careful to not recommend using any additives. It's possible that if someone uses additives and then has real damage, he could be liable. Usually, additives are not recommended. I've used fresh oil, gas, etc., for decades and have never had to use anything else, even with an old car.
1:45 Nope! Those electric fans keep on spinning at the same speed (when needed) and a slow engine doesn't mean a slow car. The car might be moving along fast, getting plenty of airflow through the radiator.
The fans are barley ever on unless the ac is one or your idling for a long time in the heat. Once the car is moving naturally airflow goes over the radiator and assists in cooling. The only time my car’s electrical fans come on is when I turn the ac on. Just for fun I tested the fans by letting the car idle in the heat with the ac off and the computer turned the fans on at low speed once the thermostat got to a certain temp.
Low rev driving won’t hurt your engine either. Most cars drive at 1500 rpm and that just fine. I never really rev past 3000 rpm’s my car has great low end torque it never really goes about 3000 rpm’s unless I hammer on the gas.
My car brand dealer sends me a mail once a year when it's time to have a car checkup with oil changing and all two years a mail to have the mandatory TÜV checkup (TÜV= technical car controlling agency), if your car fails you're not allowed to drive it on public roads
Your video mostly informative, except the part where you suggest to add additives to your motor oil. Most mechanics will agree that the new generation of motor oils have everything you need to keep your car running good, and I don't recommend using oil additives. I am interested in comments good or bad.
You don't need oil additive. Just a high quality oil. it already has an additive package. That's one reason it's important to change the oil. The additive package gets consumed as the oil is used.
Engine braking is necesary on my car, not using it is losing 20% of braking, so i usually downshift 2 gears skipping one , so only 1 gear change, car has 26y and still "new" mechanically
Figure out where you car likes to shift relative to the speed your going. So in my auto the 1-2 shift happens around 20km then the 2-3 shift is around 40km and the 3-4 shift is around 60km and after that it’s just overdrive. So if I’m doing 50km and want to engine brake on my car I’d take the shifter out of drive and down to 2nd but no lower 2nd gear is 20km to 40km so doing 50km would engine brake me and it’s safe to do because it’s not putting much stress on the engine. So you gotta figure out where you car likes to shift for the speed your going and then engine braking is a peace of cake and won’t hurt anything because you know the sifts and the speeds.
Hello there I just had a question and please don't think that it's dig. I'm a 30 plus years as a heavy truck mechanic and I've never seen an engine that uses wheels bearings but that's in big trucks so there there really could be in smaller engines. It's right around the the 3 and a half minute mark in the video. K I'm not being sarcastic or anything like that I'm just curious if the newer smaller ones may have them and I just haven't came across it. Finally you got a real good video here. It's one that anyone that has a car should be watching. Ty for putting this type of thing up for the world to see 👍 🇨🇦 🔧
Almost every single car has wheel bearings, trucks have them too but they are usually built into the wheel hub. Some cars also have wheel bearings incorporated into the hub so if you have to replace the bearings, you will have to replace the whole hub, but there is no way that you can keep a wheel spinning without some kind of bearing
100%!! If you need oil additives than you need to find a better oil. Don't put junk oil in your car if you want them to last. The top end oils that are the best are cheap compared to an engine replacement. I have done the research and know which oil and filters are the best but those are based on my research and testing, plus through several professionals like Lake Speed Jr. But it doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out what the top 4-5 oils and filters are. Fuel additives on the other hand are great and recommended to clean carbon like Redline, BG 44k Platinum, STP 5in1 Ultra, Techron Marine, Gumout Regane in that order have the most PEA to clean valves, injectors and lubricate the top-end components. But only use Top Tier fuel from a Top Tier gas station that holds the label. Stations can be found on their app or on their website. But Costco, Shell, Mobil/Exxon, etc are all top tier generally, but not every name brand station has the additives in their fuel. You have to look them up.
@@Balticblue93 For high mileage cars, I've used Yamalube ring-free gas additive. If your engine eats oil this might be exactly what your engine needs, esp if your sprak plugs come out of the engine with oil on them -
Heat isn't an engine and transmission's worst enemy, EXCESSIVE heat is. In fact, engines operate best at around 195 degrees F. At that temperature engine wear drops dramatically.
Just an fyi if you ever get water in the chambers take off all the spark plugs and try and turn it over, it’ll shoot most of the water out and some gas but better than getting it vapor locked
driving in low rpm is not bad at all, your engine is designed to run somewhere between 2k and 3k for the best gas mileage. I haven't done much research on additives but I know that detergents will actually help with carbon build up in your engine, some oils contain detergents like the oil I use high mileage mobile 1. Other than that you don't need additives for anything. As long as you keep up on fluid changes and maintenance and don't jump your car or drive it like a f1 car then it should last what the manufacturer states. Unless you have Recalls or TSBs and never get them fixed.
I don't think higher engine RPM's could decrease engine lifespan. Of course, if it didn't get red lined, oil and engine maintenance is in date and engine temperature is under working conditions. Simply because if the factory didn't want their engines to rev higher than normal, then they didn't make an engine rotates at 6 or 7 k. Plus, car racers on tracks use their cars on the limits, training, doing laps after laps full pedal to the floor. Have you heard of 24 hours of le mans? There's no sense for such limitation.
My 3.5 liter naturally aspirated v6 with 4 valves per cylinder and dual overhead cams revs to 7000 rpm but also has a governor that will not allow my truck to go faster than 100 mph.
Change your oil every 3,000 miles, don't overfill it. Your car will last 300,000+ miles. Just sold my Toyota 502,000 miles, and still ran good, no oil leaks. Before that my other car had 422,000 miles, and still ran good....
Habbit number 4: DONT HEAT YOUR ENGINE WHEN STATIONAIRY! This causes the engine to not heat up fast enough causing the parts to not expand properly. Just drive normally with a cold engine, this is so that the engine heats up fast enough so the parts expand at the right time, the oil to have a lower viscosity and your engine to be happier with you.
So what are you supposed to do when it's 30 below zero??? I live in Wisconsin. Winters are brutal and it takes awhile for windows to defrost. Can't just drive away when you can't see.
Another killer of driving through water is all the sensors cars have. Corrosion on the wires and connectors is not a fun time. Have fun all those EV's out there doing this.
8th one will BLOW UP your brakes too especially in small cars. I always call those big puddles and deeper water "brake busters" because if you hit your brakes in em too much, the water will get in the calipers/pads then boom, your WHOLE brake system is compromised and better get used to not having anti lock brakes.
Basic tribolgy 101 Oil does not get thinner as it wears, it gets thicker. Do not use oil additives as you are playing russian roulette with the additive package in the oil and the additive package in the oil additive, possibly causing more wear because the 2 additive packages could end up competing against each other. Other than that, all solid information.
A lot of short trips { not letting the oil and engine temp. come up to operating temp.} will cause condensation of water to build up in the oil.... running down the expressway just for 10 or 20 miles every week or so will let the water in the engine evaporate especially in the winter...just idling will not do it...A catch can is what I use, lots of water is collected in the winter time not so much in the Summer
ALWAYS and change fluids half what manufacturer recommends..... Coolant every 2 years or 30k max/PWR steering fluid exchange 3 years 30k max/CVT EVERY 30K max/brake Fluid 2yrs 20k max....never heard of coolant lasting 5 years wouldn't do that anyway. Brake pads/Rotors (6mm front 4 mm back) change em both together. Battery Every 4 years MAX
honestly i was an extended warranty inspector. Just driving it is enough for many modern engines to self destruct. Its horrible out there the junk they are selling for the prices they charge. I'm not going to go through every model buy just a list x out dodge chrysler jeep ram dodge COMPLETELY there are no good ones anymore. If its not the engines its the trans if its not the trans it's the electronics if its not that then water leaks in 100% trash. Not saying they are not fun, but unless its a plaything pass on these. that tick in the engine, that's not a lifter not a tiny exhaust leak, that's the rocker EATING the lobe on your camshaft(s) putting fine metal particles right into your engine, the oil filter will clog and enter bypass mode letting all the pieces ruin the rest of your engine. The computer is adapting to the slight difference in the valve open and closing thats why u dont notice it driving by the time a check engine light comes on your motor has been trash a while already. #2 ANYTHING gasoline with a turbo especially anything american. all trash. #3 CVT's avoid if at all possible there are a few that are "OK" honda ones but never ever a nissan . #4 american made 4 cylinder engines, IDK why americans just can't get a 4 banger right. Never have. Americans have made great v8s and 6 cyl but the 4 bangers are all trash. Closest one to "good"is the iron duke used in mail trucks. It lasted but it was loud, vibrated like crazy used more gas than a 6cyl and had the horsepower of a 3 cyl .... But who cares when uncle sam buys the gas and who needs speed or lots of power if you stop every 10 feet i guess.
I have a Ford Transit. 3.7L V-6 w/6-spd automatic. The transmission must think the engine is Superman, because it constantly keeps the RPMS below 2000, sometimes as low as 1100. Drives me nuts.
Thanksfor all your information but i live in. Aus. Different cars and needs. All my cars have gone on for many many miles and years. Fords are best. I only drive s very short distance about once a week.
Do not add additives to oil. There is a lot of science in oil when you go to start adding additives such as Lucas oil stabilizer you have just thin down the additive package in the oil
You can still rev an auto high if you hammer the gas but it’s mostly computer controlled to only rev high under certain loads. The driver can make it rev higher but sometimes there’s a lag in acceleration because the computer is trying to figure it out.
If I’m going down a steep incline I’m not using my brakes they will heat up and fail that’s when engine braking can help you with the assistance of the foot brake.
What about driving downhill with a low engine when you don’t want to abuse the brake pads? I always use second and third and downhill extreme downhill mountain kind of downhill.
@@disknee6630 price has nothing to do with it lol, cars are made to be able to use engine power to stop without any damage to the engine If anything - not using engine brake can cause your regular brakes to overheat and fail during long steep descends
@@disknee6630 lol if you are going down with a semi and you dont use engine brake you just killed yourself and anyone down the road, please admit you dont have a car and never driven one otherwise you would know how an engine operates and that it doesnt even struggle to engine brake
Thanks for the forecast! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Bro, please, from the bottom of my heart, edit ur comment and remove ur seedphrase, seriously, please, anyone who sees it can steal your money and 100% get away with it, please, please, please, edit the comment and remove it or just delete ur comment, hope im not too late to say this.. (I dont use SafePal, but that secret seedphrase is more powerful than the password, i can take ur wallet n change the password for example)
When i bought my Astra GTC ive seen how low its average speed was in the display as if the pre owner has driven it only downtown and after putting some High Octane in, High Quality Oil and driving it on the Autobahn like you mean it, i did it a few times when i was driving to a friend i felt how it began to feel much more "ready" like as if it regained its power back and when it comes to Basic Maintenance i am really paranoid about it, checking oil every 2 weeks and looking for leaks or drops coming from under the car etc.... even if you have the cheapest piece of shit of an car you still have to treat it with love since this piece of shit lets go ways that would take longer if you walk them 👌👌
Thanks to this video, I learned something. I can't see the difference between the real thing and the fake one, so I just buy the fake one. But if you want to buy it in the future, it is better to invest in the real thing. But now I am still considering buying a fake one within the budget. I have been waiting for kislux for a long time.
If you don't have an available electrical outlet and/or can't fit an engine pre-heater to the engine, which is the best solution, then I'd let my engine warm up 2 or 3 minutes before driving off slowly if possible.
You have to use some heat source, even if its a hot plate set to high placed under the oil pan (which I would NOT do unless desperate)! There are all sorts of things you can do, most of them to make the engine warm up faster. Some people even block the radiator with cardboard, which is a great idea, until the day you overheat the car because you forgot the cardboard in front of the radiator. IF you have access to an elec outlet you're practically home free, just install an engine block heater, a battery heater, maybe an oil heater, any or all of the above. If you have no elec outlet though, all you can do is use the lowest recommended weight oil, make your anti-freeze concentration (and age) is perfect, and keep your battery in top shape...
Most of these habits sound like something a black person would do because from my experience black Boomer men know nothing about car care or traffic regulations. So much so that if there's one driving, you might lose a body part trying to enter his car when his lack of patience inevitability causes him to pull away as you open a door, taking any limbs that are in the doorway with it.
@carcareclues In Habit #4 you state that cold oil is thick... this isn't true (at least with a multi-viscosity oil). 10w-30 means that it's viscosity index is 10 when cold (thin) and 30 when hot (thicker)...
it still gehts thinner with increasing temperature - viscosity index of 30 for emaple does not mean that the actual viscosity stays the same over all temperatures. this just meand that the oil behaves like a 10 on cold temperatures and like a 30 on hot ones but a "hot 30" is still thinner than a "cold 10" but a "hot 10" would be extremly thin
The most important rule of thumb is to take your car’s recommended oil change interval and divide that by 2 and you’ll get your max when to change it. 2nd most important thing is to keep your OEM oil OR the same type of oil brand you switched to. If you keep switching oil brand all the time you are changing the chemistry of your engine and that would cause it to go bad.
Sorry I'm back. I'm sure that some of the stuff is just to show people things to do and not do. Looking at the wheel with the brake fluid aging I've never seen brake fluid that bad and if it was real you would see it on the face of the rim I would think. But still I don't mean it in a scarastic comment. Not a single bit. Like I said before you are doing a good thing here showing people this type of thing. Koodos to you 👍🇨🇦🔧
The dumbest thing you will hear about macho idiots when talking about their cars is - = I drive my cars hard. Ironically - it is most of the time those who don't have a nickel and break their parent's savings accounts when they need cash for anything more than their beers.
I’m somewhat disappointed. If low rpm (“lugging the engine”) is bad, why don’t you tell us what is low, what too low, and what isn’t? Most cars nowadays have the rpm-meter, so it would be easy to check and if necessary adjust your driving habits. But you remain unclear with this. What is low? Under 2000? 2500? What is ideal for the cruising speed? What for gear shift? I do it at ~3000 rpm. I can imagine that it varies from car to car, from a model to model, but still… why else do we have those meters on the dashboard?
Some people change gears when their car is juddering, jerking or stuttering so I think that is what he meant by lugging the engine. I don't know what car you drive but I think 3000 rpm should be fine or even 4000, changing gears at 1200-2000rpm is usually harmful for the engine
@@Arda-ox8pc _Some people change gears_ Petrol 2.0i 16V engine manual gearbox. To my ears, judging by the sound and the car behavior, it's just under 3000 rpm what I'm used to do. As much as I understand, after you've changed the gear, it shouldn't drop below 2000 rpm or you need to change at a higher rpm-count.
Once you change the gear and step on the gas, is your car accelerating easily or not? If the answer is yes, good rpm 😉 If not, change gears at higher rpms. If your car has a gear change indicator, ignore it. My wife's granpa was always changing gears according to this indicator and now his car is in junk yard because of an engine failure.
yeah! but naturally didn't care about it, additionally for caring your machine don't use it for longer peroid of time while leave it idle for parking that's correct way to control over your horrible driving habits... hahaha
DRIVING YOUR CAR HARD, NOT CHANGING THE OIL AND NEGLECTING REGULAR MAINTANCE WILL RUIN YOUR ENGINE AND MUCH MORE. OF COURSE IF YOUR ENGINE IS CHEAPLY MADE YOUR'E UNFORTUNELY SCREWED.
@ClaudeSac I'M NOT SHOUTING. I JUST LIKE TO WRITE IN CAPITALS. WHY DOES EVERYBODY THINK IF SOMEONE WRITES IN CAPITALS THAT THEY ARE SHOUTING. I THINK THAT'S BEING IGNORANT.
@@theultimatemale6820 NO, THEY ARE TALKING NORMAL WHEN THEY ARE USING NORMAL LETTERS; THEY ARE NOT SMALL LETTERS, THEY ARE NORMAL. WHY DO YOU THINK YOU MUST INSULT ME, I AM ONLY STATING THE CONSENSUS ABOUT USING CAPITALS. IF ANYBODY, YOU ARE THE IGNORANT AND CLOSE MINDED ONE. NOW STOP SHOUTING.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
The worst habit is NOT DOING NECESSARY MAINTENANCE
Eating sugar vs toothbrushing
😢The main thing is people never CHANGE THE OIL! It's not that hard to drive to oil change facility that does it for you. It's a whole lot cheaper to change your oil then you're engine! Recommend changing at 5k max if you want to keep your engine in premium condition!
Agree 100%
Depend on the car too, even 5k on some of them is way too much
Or do it yourself 😂😂
What I think people need to do is CHECK the oil regularly. Especially if your car burns oil.
Why so often? I drive my car 800 km weekly mostly on highways
"No kind of leaks should be ignored." Tell that to my dad.
that's a direct quote FROM my dad
@@resetsetmefree478 LOL 😂
naah, the oil leaks are the natural will of the car to prevent itself from rust.
@@SMB-102the oil is cheaper cooking and burning
What does he drive?
There is a simple action that helps. Check under the hood once a week. Check oil , brake fluid , power steering fluid , engine coolant level , hoses , drive belt , etc . I've been driving since 1968 and checking under the hood is a good habit to have.
If you use good oil, then oil additives are not necessary. They are a waste of money.
Exactly. Probably 99.9% of the additives out there offer zero to little benefit. The only thing they will do, is improve your gas mileage by lightening your wallet.
If oil additives rely Boosted the oils ability to do their job then the oil manufacturers would have already added it. Oil additives are temporary fixes and can not make worn parts get better. It's not medicine for your car.
@@johnbarnett2804 and @rickdonald3617 Not necessarily. Oil manufacturers are restrained by government mandates and edicts...and you know how things get when government gets involved in stuff. Oils made today are not the same as oils from just 30 years ago, and in many cases that makes them worse. Some additives have been deleted because the government claims that they cause chemical reactions to the materials they approved for use in emission doo-dads...and those additives are critical for use in older engines. Now, would you need additives in a brand-new engine of a brand-new car? No. Would you need additives in the engine of a 58-year-old car, even if the engine has gone only three years into a rebuild? *YES.* For instance, new oils are devoid of zinc phosphate per government edict, and that additive is critical for older engines. So, you need to add a $12 bottle of ZDDP to your oil-change bill if you happen to have an older engine. It's not medicine; it's *vitamins.*
But you may ask, how about brand-new engines? Granted, car manufacturers have had to alter the metallurgy they employ when producing engines in order to accommodate the government directive on how oil is produced. As a result, they are supposedly designed to withstand the inconvenience of additive starvation...which in part contributes to the much-higher cost of purchase nowadays.
@@johnbarnett2804 Oil does have additives from the factory. All but the cheapest oil anyway.
@@postersm7141 yeah, No shit. But if adding even more additives made it even more better then the oil manufacturers would have already done it. Your just messing with the formula that they spent millions to perfect, and Some how Seafoam or STP just knows that their formula can make Any brands formula better. Even tho every brand has their own proprietary blend. Just Snake Oil. I don't put band-aids on my cars. If it has a problem I work on getting it fixed. Not just add a magic potion to it and hope the damage doesn't get to the point of making a engine repair into a engine replacement.
I never floor the gas pedal and all my cars have lasted over 200,000 miles with no major engine repairs.
Floor mine daily and have 320k miles no issues
My car, not nearly as high mileage only at 155k, but it is 32 years old at this point gets wide open throttle up to 6,000 rpm every day and runs fine.
Sounds like a very boring ownership experience
and your engine is full up carbon build up
@@dedan2 right!!!!!!! I was thinking the same thing. Hell I paid for the damn thing, I'm going to enjoy it. That doesn't mean I'm going to abuse it but going to USE it!! Just don't rev it until the OIL is up to temp. Not the coolant temp gauge but the oil.
So don’t drive on slow rpms, and don’t drive on higher rpms. Overall just never drive, that will save your engine from driving.
😂
ironically letting a car sit also is bad for it
there's just no winning lol
I never rev my engine. It is just dumb.
You must have a car with very good low end torque.
@@orionyesliketheconstellation I think he meant the cold thing. Not in gear.
@@orionyesliketheconstellation i have a 2012 mazda 3 and i regularly have to rev the piss out of it to quickly get to speed. but i also drive hard on the backroads so theres that
@@natehill8069even in gear if not needed you don’t need to drive around revving to the redline just to make noise. You’re annoying everyone. Just like those car meets all people do is rev the engine and it’s so annoying.
@@ryans413This! 🙌🏻
Good video. Based on what I've noticed, numbers 1, 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are done more often with drivers. Especially, not changing the oil on time. As for a bonus, another costly bad habit I've seen with some drivers is that when they want to shift from drive to reverse or from reverse to drive, they don't let the vehicle stop completely before shifting. Doing that just few times throughout the life of the vehicle doesn't cause any damage, but doing that on a daily basis will eventually result in costly transmission repairs or costly transmission replacement. One more bonus is that some drivers drive on under inflated tires. The vehicle will be less fuel efficient doing that. Also, it'll eventually lead to wear on the tires and more importantly wear and tear on the engine.
One I see a lot especially with manual drivers is they all shift at the red line and I just don’t get it. Hitting the redline once in a while won’t do anything but overtime it’ll shorten the lifespan of the engine. There’s a reason there’s a redline it’s the max pressure the engine can take before killing itself. Every manual driver is see dose this it annoys me.
You should NEVER use additives, pouring random linquids that you think might help, because something catchy is written on the bottle, isnt a good idea. Unless your mechanic told you so or you have the knowledge on how different chemicals in the additive reacts with your oil and it's additives.
To preserve your car's health and avoid major problems you should:
1. Do regular maintenance: oil, filter, liquid changes and car inspections (read your owner's manual or search online, on your specific car, how often and what you should change)
2. Dont drive on too low RPM or too high RPM for long periods of time (try to never drive on really low on RPMs, redlining a car once in a while wont damage it if well maintained)
3. Dont rev a cold engine (drive on lower RPMs at least 5-10 minutes before using high RPMs)
4. If you need power use a lower gear: if you are in 5th gear 1500 RPMs, and you want to accelerate hard, downshift to 4th gear (you will get more resposive and faster acceleration without damaging your car)
But one additive you *should* use from time to time: fuel-injector cleaner.
Works wonders for the engine.
Oil additives are not necessary if you use quality oil and do regular maintenance.
A pretty interesting and common sense video. However, he needs to be EXTRA careful to not recommend using any additives. It's possible that if someone uses additives and then has real damage, he could be liable. Usually, additives are not recommended. I've used fresh oil, gas, etc., for decades and have never had to use anything else, even with an old car.
100% agree !!!! Oil additives are proven to do more harm than good. Follow the “Motor Oil Geek” for scientifically proven results on using additives!
why the creepy michael myers type of music
Death of cars
1:45 Nope! Those electric fans keep on spinning at the same speed (when needed) and a slow engine doesn't mean a slow car. The car might be moving along fast, getting plenty of airflow through the radiator.
The fans are barley ever on unless the ac is one or your idling for a long time in the heat. Once the car is moving naturally airflow goes over the radiator and assists in cooling. The only time my car’s electrical fans come on is when I turn the ac on. Just for fun I tested the fans by letting the car idle in the heat with the ac off and the computer turned the fans on at low speed once the thermostat got to a certain temp.
#2 is so true.
Chilling with low rpm is fine.
But accelerating should always be accompanied by a downshift.
I think that #2 only applies to manuals or else all those automatic cars would have died already cuz they drive at such low RPMs
Watch your fluids, change the oil, and don't abuse the car. It will last a very long time.
Flooring your car isn’t gonna kill your car unless you do it relentlessly. Regular maintenance and fluctuating how u drive will make it last longer.
Low rev driving won’t hurt your engine either. Most cars drive at 1500 rpm and that just fine. I never really rev past 3000 rpm’s my car has great low end torque it never really goes about 3000 rpm’s unless I hammer on the gas.
just don't let it redline and you're fine
My car brand dealer sends me a mail once a year when it's time to have a car checkup with oil changing and all two years a mail to have the mandatory TÜV checkup (TÜV= technical car controlling agency), if your car fails you're not allowed to drive it on public roads
Was für ein Auto hast du?
@javo5270 Mitsubishi Space Star Bj.2013
TÜV is a b*tch
Your video mostly informative, except the part where you suggest to add additives to your motor oil. Most mechanics will agree that the new generation of motor oils have everything you need to keep your car running good, and I don't recommend using oil additives. I am interested in comments good or bad.
You don't need oil additive. Just a high quality oil. it already has an additive package. That's one reason it's important to change the oil. The additive package gets consumed as the oil is used.
Engine braking is necesary on my car, not using it is losing 20% of braking, so i usually downshift 2 gears skipping one , so only 1 gear change, car has 26y and still "new" mechanically
engine braking does not cause damage, the only way you can damage your engine by engine braking is by going over the rpm range
Same I need to downshift in order to stop. Having a 4200 lbs sedan , I need to downshift….
Figure out where you car likes to shift relative to the speed your going. So in my auto the 1-2 shift happens around 20km then the 2-3 shift is around 40km and the 3-4 shift is around 60km and after that it’s just overdrive. So if I’m doing 50km and want to engine brake on my car I’d take the shifter out of drive and down to 2nd but no lower 2nd gear is 20km to 40km so doing 50km would engine brake me and it’s safe to do because it’s not putting much stress on the engine. So you gotta figure out where you car likes to shift for the speed your going and then engine braking is a peace of cake and won’t hurt anything because you know the sifts and the speeds.
@@ryans413
Easy as pie.
Piece of cake.
Peace ✌🏻🕊️
Hello there I just had a question and please don't think that it's dig. I'm a 30 plus years as a heavy truck mechanic and I've never seen an engine that uses wheels bearings but that's in big trucks so there there really could be in smaller engines. It's right around the the 3 and a half minute mark in the video. K I'm not being sarcastic or anything like that I'm just curious if the newer smaller ones may have them and I just haven't came across it. Finally you got a real good video here. It's one that anyone that has a car should be watching. Ty for putting this type of thing up for the world to see 👍 🇨🇦 🔧
Almost every single car has wheel bearings, trucks have them too but they are usually built into the wheel hub. Some cars also have wheel bearings incorporated into the hub so if you have to replace the bearings, you will have to replace the whole hub, but there is no way that you can keep a wheel spinning without some kind of bearing
I meant I've never seen a bearing like that inside of an engine 🤷♂️
nowadays they're all incorporated into the hub.
if the car leaks oil,,ok...only worry when the leaking STOPS
Lol, right!👍🏽😆
You've earned a thumb down for the oil additives. Do you think that oil manufacturers know nothing about how to make oil?
Thank you. I said the same thing. High quality oil already has an additive package.
100%!! If you need oil additives than you need to find a better oil. Don't put junk oil in your car if you want them to last. The top end oils that are the best are cheap compared to an engine replacement. I have done the research and know which oil and filters are the best but those are based on my research and testing, plus through several professionals like Lake Speed Jr. But it doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out what the top 4-5 oils and filters are.
Fuel additives on the other hand are great and recommended to clean carbon like Redline, BG 44k Platinum, STP 5in1 Ultra, Techron Marine, Gumout Regane in that order have the most PEA to clean valves, injectors and lubricate the top-end components. But only use Top Tier fuel from a Top Tier gas station that holds the label. Stations can be found on their app or on their website. But Costco, Shell, Mobil/Exxon, etc are all top tier generally, but not every name brand station has the additives in their fuel. You have to look them up.
Most oil already has additives in it so don’t waste your money buying extra additives.
@@Balticblue93 For high mileage cars, I've used Yamalube ring-free gas additive. If your engine eats oil this might be exactly what your engine needs, esp if your sprak plugs come out of the engine with oil on them -
Heat isn't an engine and transmission's worst enemy, EXCESSIVE heat is. In fact, engines operate best at around 195 degrees F. At that temperature engine wear drops dramatically.
That be 90 C and yes I agree
Just an fyi if you ever get water in the chambers take off all the spark plugs and try and turn it over, it’ll shoot most of the water out and some gas but better than getting it vapor locked
driving in low rpm is not bad at all, your engine is designed to run somewhere between 2k and 3k for the best gas mileage. I haven't done much research on additives but I know that detergents will actually help with carbon build up in your engine, some oils contain detergents like the oil I use high mileage mobile 1. Other than that you don't need additives for anything. As long as you keep up on fluid changes and maintenance and don't jump your car or drive it like a f1 car then it should last what the manufacturer states. Unless you have Recalls or TSBs and never get them fixed.
I don't think higher engine RPM's could decrease engine lifespan. Of course, if it didn't get red lined, oil and engine maintenance is in date and engine temperature is under working conditions. Simply because if the factory didn't want their engines to rev higher than normal, then they didn't make an engine rotates at 6 or 7 k. Plus, car racers on tracks use their cars on the limits, training, doing laps after laps full pedal to the floor. Have you heard of 24 hours of le mans? There's no sense for such limitation.
My 3.5 liter naturally aspirated v6 with 4 valves per cylinder and dual overhead cams revs to 7000 rpm but also has a governor that will not allow my truck to go faster than 100 mph.
Controlling high speed with gear control is safest way instead of depending on brake for 100%
All modern car manufacturers forbid the use of oil additives. Only straight modern motor oil according to the manufacturer will suffice.
Change your oil every 3,000 miles, don't overfill it. Your car will last 300,000+ miles. Just sold my Toyota 502,000 miles, and still ran good, no oil leaks. Before that my other car had 422,000 miles, and still ran good....
Habbit number 4: DONT HEAT YOUR ENGINE WHEN STATIONAIRY! This causes the engine to not heat up fast enough causing the parts to not expand properly. Just drive normally with a cold engine, this is so that the engine heats up fast enough so the parts expand at the right time, the oil to have a lower viscosity and your engine to be happier with you.
So what are you supposed to do when it's 30 below zero??? I live in Wisconsin. Winters are brutal and it takes awhile for windows to defrost. Can't just drive away when you can't see.
Another killer of driving through water is all the sensors cars have. Corrosion on the wires and connectors is not a fun time. Have fun all those EV's out there doing this.
Great info thank you.
10:10 they show a Tesla. Electric cars don’t use oil. lol
Only for plastics in their interiors.
8th one will BLOW UP your brakes too especially in small cars. I always call those big puddles and deeper water "brake busters" because if you hit your brakes in em too much, the water will get in the calipers/pads then boom, your WHOLE brake system is compromised and better get used to not having anti lock brakes.
Im 21 years old and i do it all right in my vw golf iv, idk how people more old can ignore that all
Dont be too proud. You still have a volkswagon
@@disknee66301.9 tdi engines are one of the best engines ever made, so im proud anyway
Basic tribolgy 101
Oil does not get thinner as it wears, it gets thicker.
Do not use oil additives as you are playing russian roulette with the additive package in the oil and the additive package in the oil additive, possibly causing more wear because the 2 additive packages could end up competing against each other.
Other than that, all solid information.
A lot of short trips { not letting the oil and engine temp. come up to operating temp.} will cause condensation of water to build up in the oil.... running down the expressway just for 10 or 20 miles every week or so will let the water in the engine evaporate especially in the winter...just idling will not do it...A catch can is what I use, lots of water is collected in the winter time not so much in the Summer
That's called an *Italian Tuneup*
Always change fluids on schedule.
ALWAYS and change fluids half what manufacturer recommends..... Coolant every 2 years or 30k max/PWR steering fluid exchange 3 years 30k max/CVT EVERY 30K max/brake Fluid 2yrs 20k max....never heard of coolant lasting 5 years wouldn't do that anyway. Brake pads/Rotors (6mm front 4 mm back) change em both together. Battery Every 4 years MAX
Be careful with adding oil additives. 😊
honestly i was an extended warranty inspector. Just driving it is enough for many modern engines to self destruct. Its horrible out there the junk they are selling for the prices they charge. I'm not going to go through every model buy just a list x out dodge chrysler jeep ram dodge COMPLETELY there are no good ones anymore. If its not the engines its the trans if its not the trans it's the electronics if its not that then water leaks in 100% trash. Not saying they are not fun, but unless its a plaything pass on these. that tick in the engine, that's not a lifter not a tiny exhaust leak, that's the rocker EATING the lobe on your camshaft(s) putting fine metal particles right into your engine, the oil filter will clog and enter bypass mode letting all the pieces ruin the rest of your engine. The computer is adapting to the slight difference in the valve open and closing thats why u dont notice it driving by the time a check engine light comes on your motor has been trash a while already. #2 ANYTHING gasoline with a turbo especially anything american. all trash. #3 CVT's avoid if at all possible there are a few that are "OK" honda ones but never ever a nissan . #4 american made 4 cylinder engines, IDK why americans just can't get a 4 banger right. Never have. Americans have made great v8s and 6 cyl but the 4 bangers are all trash. Closest one to "good"is the iron duke used in mail trucks. It lasted but it was loud, vibrated like crazy used more gas than a 6cyl and had the horsepower of a 3 cyl .... But who cares when uncle sam buys the gas and who needs speed or lots of power if you stop every 10 feet i guess.
I have a Ford Transit. 3.7L V-6 w/6-spd automatic. The transmission must think the engine is Superman, because it constantly keeps the RPMS below 2000, sometimes as low as 1100. Drives me nuts.
Thanksfor all your information but i live in. Aus. Different cars and needs. All my cars have gone on for many many miles and years. Fords are best. I only drive s very short distance about once a week.
Do not add additives to oil. There is a lot of science in oil when you go to start adding additives such as Lucas oil stabilizer you have just thin down the additive package in the oil
First thing I did after buying a used car was getting my oil changed.
Most people drive automatic transmissions so we dont control how high the rpms go. Even at 75-80, my camry is still at 2500rpms
You can still rev an auto high if you hammer the gas but it’s mostly computer controlled to only rev high under certain loads. The driver can make it rev higher but sometimes there’s a lag in acceleration because the computer is trying to figure it out.
3:09 IVE BEEN SAYING THIS FOR YEARS. You only get ONE engine, brakes are easy to replace and cheap, use em.
But only brake is risky and dangerous and less control compare to gear control
If I’m going down a steep incline I’m not using my brakes they will heat up and fail that’s when engine braking can help you with the assistance of the foot brake.
What about driving downhill with a low engine when you don’t want to abuse the brake pads? I always use second and third and downhill extreme downhill mountain kind of downhill.
Abuse the pads?? Dude to replace pads you need to take off the wheel and take off the caliper. To replace the engine you need thousands of dollars.
@@disknee6630 price has nothing to do with it lol, cars are made to be able to use engine power to stop without any damage to the engine
If anything - not using engine brake can cause your regular brakes to overheat and fail during long steep descends
@@ValentineNTT yeah if ur constantly going down mountains or ur in a semi
@@disknee6630 lol if you are going down with a semi and you dont use engine brake you just killed yourself and anyone down the road, please admit you dont have a car and never driven one otherwise you would know how an engine operates and that it doesnt even struggle to engine brake
Thanks for the forecast! Could you help me with something unrelated: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Bro, please, from the bottom of my heart, edit ur comment and remove ur seedphrase, seriously, please, anyone who sees it can steal your money and 100% get away with it, please, please, please, edit the comment and remove it or just delete ur comment, hope im not too late to say this.. (I dont use SafePal, but that secret seedphrase is more powerful than the password, i can take ur wallet n change the password for example)
@JeffScott-s4g
@@obistellar i think this is just a bot as the account only exists for a month
@@simonczerny3766 might be, just had 2 comment incase its an actual person new to crypto
Water can also get in the transmission
My peugeot 106 rallye S1 has an oil temp gauge!
Nice touch on the good engine instruments ! Hi - performance type IP . Cool -
#5 I bet most cars cant even get to redline in top gear.
Naturually aspirated engines are tough enough to take a pounding .
WHICH BRAND OF FLUSH WILL BE BEST FOR 796CC SUZUKI ENGINE PLEASE TELL TO ME.....
2:44 Only real ones know that this is Richard from Conquer Driving in that clip!
Rufford ford on the video wow nice 1
When i bought my Astra GTC ive seen how low its average speed was in the display as if the pre owner has driven it only downtown and after putting some High Octane in, High Quality Oil and driving it on the Autobahn like you mean it, i did it a few times when i was driving to a friend i felt how it began to feel much more "ready" like as if it regained its power back and when it comes to Basic Maintenance i am really paranoid about it, checking oil every 2 weeks and looking for leaks or drops coming from under the car etc.... even if you have the cheapest piece of shit of an car you still have to treat it with love since this piece of shit lets go ways that would take longer if you walk them 👌👌
I HAVE 432.000 WITH MY SCODA OCTAVIA........OILS AT 7.000 ALWAYS.......GAS ALWAYS EMPTY!!! no problem at engine ore fuel pump..........
im now confused what engine u have, probably 1.9tdi
as a car mechanik i have to say that some truly important things but you also tell us a good amount of bullshit - for example the first "Habit".
to be clear you should absolutely not drive without enought Oil but what you say that happens if you do so is just wrong
Thanks to this video, I learned something. I can't see the difference between the real thing and the fake one, so I just buy the fake one. But if you want to buy it in the future, it is better to invest in the real thing. But now I am still considering buying a fake one within the budget. I have been waiting for kislux for a long time.
how to warm up engine naturally during winter?
If you don't have an available electrical outlet and/or can't fit an engine pre-heater to the engine, which is the best solution, then I'd let my engine warm up 2 or 3 minutes before driving off slowly if possible.
Block heater get one installed it’ll warm the oil and coolant in the engine block making the starting process simple.
You have to use some heat source, even if its a hot plate set to high placed under the oil pan (which I would NOT do unless desperate)! There are all sorts of things you can do, most of them to make the engine warm up faster. Some people even block the radiator with cardboard, which is a great idea, until the day you overheat the car because you forgot the cardboard in front of the radiator. IF you have access to an elec outlet you're practically home free, just install an engine block heater, a battery heater, maybe an oil heater, any or all of the above.
If you have no elec outlet though, all you can do is use the lowest recommended weight oil, make your anti-freeze concentration (and age) is perfect, and keep your battery in top shape...
Start up the car then drive it.
Thanks for this, im an idiot and was born yesterday
Most of these habits sound like something a black person would do because from my experience black Boomer men know nothing about car care or traffic regulations. So much so that if there's one driving, you might lose a body part trying to enter his car when his lack of patience inevitability causes him to pull away as you open a door, taking any limbs that are in the doorway with it.
Nice video but some sound effects are annoying
All of this ignores the small block chevy which I have had start up underwater.... dont ask.
Engine breaking is good in snow
Number 4 is a lie. That is only true when you have a carburetorated engine.
@carcareclues In Habit #4 you state that cold oil is thick... this isn't true (at least with a multi-viscosity oil). 10w-30 means that it's viscosity index is 10 when cold (thin) and 30 when hot (thicker)...
it still gehts thinner with increasing temperature - viscosity index of 30 for emaple does not mean that the actual viscosity stays the same over all temperatures. this just meand that the oil behaves like a 10 on cold temperatures and like a 30 on hot ones but a "hot 30" is still thinner than a "cold 10" but a "hot 10" would be extremly thin
There's something wrong with #7 habit
The most important rule of thumb is to take your car’s recommended oil change interval and divide that by 2 and you’ll get your max when to change it.
2nd most important thing is to keep your OEM oil OR the same type of oil brand you switched to. If you keep switching oil brand all the time you are changing the chemistry of your engine and that would cause it to go bad.
everything mentioned is true. however, everybody knows everything mentioned here. i was expecting anything new, but wasted my time!
Oh boy you'd be surprised by the amount of people who don't know these
a lot of this video is false, do better.
8:00 habit SERATE wtf 😅😅
Lol you obviously dont own a older car just check the oil every couple weeks even if its not leaking
Basically don't drive your car.
Sorry I'm back. I'm sure that some of the stuff is just to show people things to do and not do. Looking at the wheel with the brake fluid aging I've never seen brake fluid that bad and if it was real you would see it on the face of the rim I would think. But still I don't mean it in a scarastic comment. Not a single bit. Like I said before you are doing a good thing here showing people this type of thing. Koodos to you 👍🇨🇦🔧
I did all these things and my Lexus still running
Thats because you have a toyota product
The dumbest thing you will hear about macho idiots when talking about their cars is -
= I drive my cars hard.
Ironically - it is most of the time those who don't have a nickel and break their parent's savings accounts when they need cash for anything more than their beers.
I’m somewhat disappointed. If low rpm (“lugging the engine”) is bad, why don’t you tell us what is low, what too low, and what isn’t? Most cars nowadays have the rpm-meter, so it would be easy to check and if necessary adjust your driving habits. But you remain unclear with this. What is low? Under 2000? 2500? What is ideal for the cruising speed? What for gear shift? I do it at ~3000 rpm. I can imagine that it varies from car to car, from a model to model, but still… why else do we have those meters on the dashboard?
Some people change gears when their car is juddering, jerking or stuttering so I think that is what he meant by lugging the engine. I don't know what car you drive but I think 3000 rpm should be fine or even 4000, changing gears at 1200-2000rpm is usually harmful for the engine
@@Arda-ox8pc _Some people change gears_ Petrol 2.0i 16V engine manual gearbox. To my ears, judging by the sound and the car behavior, it's just under 3000 rpm what I'm used to do. As much as I understand, after you've changed the gear, it shouldn't drop below 2000 rpm or you need to change at a higher rpm-count.
Once you change the gear and step on the gas, is your car accelerating easily or not? If the answer is yes, good rpm 😉 If not, change gears at higher rpms. If your car has a gear change indicator, ignore it. My wife's granpa was always changing gears according to this indicator and now his car is in junk yard because of an engine failure.
@@Arda-ox8pc _If the answer is yes, good rpm 😉_ -Great point, thank you!
Alter Falter, in Deutschland ist das eigentlich alles Grundwissen.
That's basic knowledge in Germany
This video was brought to you by chatgpt
yeah! but naturally didn't care about it, additionally for caring your machine don't use it for longer peroid of time while leave it idle for parking that's correct way to control over your horrible driving habits... hahaha
This video is filled with idiocy
How to make your car last longer: Don't use it at all 😂
Wrong cars like to be used a car that sits dies.
DRIVING YOUR CAR HARD, NOT CHANGING THE OIL AND NEGLECTING REGULAR MAINTANCE WILL RUIN YOUR ENGINE AND MUCH MORE. OF COURSE IF YOUR ENGINE IS CHEAPLY MADE YOUR'E UNFORTUNELY SCREWED.
Y U SO SHOUTY !
@ClaudeSac I'M NOT SHOUTING. I JUST LIKE TO WRITE IN CAPITALS. WHY DOES EVERYBODY THINK IF SOMEONE WRITES IN CAPITALS THAT THEY ARE SHOUTING. I THINK THAT'S BEING IGNORANT.
@@theultimatemale6820 NO U ARE IGNOLULU, CAPITALS MEAN SHOUTING. STOP SHOUTING!!
@ClaudeSac SO THE PEOPLE THAT WRITE IN SMALL LETTERS ARE WHISPERING? DUDE YOU'RE AN IGNORANT CLOSED MINDED PERSON.
@@theultimatemale6820 NO, THEY ARE TALKING NORMAL WHEN THEY ARE USING NORMAL LETTERS; THEY ARE NOT SMALL LETTERS, THEY ARE NORMAL. WHY DO YOU THINK YOU MUST INSULT ME, I AM ONLY STATING THE CONSENSUS ABOUT USING CAPITALS. IF ANYBODY, YOU ARE THE IGNORANT AND CLOSE MINDED ONE. NOW STOP SHOUTING.
nah ima just do my own thing
Engine breaking does not apply to automatic
To be pedantic, engine braking doesn't apply to automatics. Their engines can break though.
Tbh we all stomp it
Speak for yourself.
@@itsabigchungusso ur the prius with an avg mph of 10?
Thanks captain obvious
Holy crap the thumbnail is stupid
AI ahhh vid
Before the video is over, asking for subscribers. Nope
Best to buy yourself a Tesla 😂
You misspelled Toyota.
Great info, thank you