@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though
This guy has really helped my confidence in my first amp/sub build that i did this week, and Crutchfield is the bomb! I ordered my head unit and wiring from them, and their support knew 1000% of everything i needed to know
Great video. I think one thing you should have considered with your adding another sub analogy was amplifier final impedance. If you add another sub and it's wired in parallel with the other one, given that amplifier can handle the final impedance of them both, it's likely pushing nearly twice the wattage, this is the case with a lot of amplifiers. I'm sure you realized this, but just figured I'd mention it, great stuff man!
Basically it's forcing an amp to boost an audio signal beyond its physical capability. You're getting barely any more power beyond that turn of the gain Dial but thousands of times more distortion
rmblwgn 7:30 his graph with the smooth lines cut off on top and bottom says it all, I’ve always knew distortion kills speakers, not power, and yet that graphic of the “clipped” lines is pure genius. Thanks for chiming in.
@@woohunter1 knowing that 90% of people on the street use shitty 2channel 200 Watt amps to power their subwoofers I'm convinced that clipping is what melts voice coils. I don't know at what point I started to understand all this but it certainly wasn't when I got my first system at 16 because it took me two weeks to install a simple amp sub and radio. now 10 years later I wish I knew this basic stuff back then
The air space comment was so spot on. It's so annoying the myth that larger subs hit lower, it's stupid. Enclosure design is what yields lower response frequencies. So people wonder why stuffing 6 12s into their trunk doesn't sound as good as the 2 12s I have. In my trunk there's probably enough room for a box for 2 15s but it's cutting it close, yet everyone is DEAD SET on getting 2 15s in these cars, they just won't listen.
The biggest one I can think of is that YOU NEED a big system to produce big sound. In high school (2001-2005) everyone had a system. Teachers, nerds, cheerleaders, everyone. I had a 2-door 93 Skylark with a pair of 275w 3-way Pioneer 6x9’s running around 200w to each speaker. No dedicated subwoofer. It was showing up most others others 1000w 1/2x12 setups. I’d pop the trunk and people would be surprised to see it empty.
Great video very informative! Years ago I used to have a band pass box of two 10”s. I like to think out of the box and I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer me. My question is, can you put a sealed subwoofer box and have a separate box that has a band pass box? My thinking is have the nice clean sound of a sealed subwoofer yet also have it mixed with the raw behind the cone bass of a band pass box. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks
You should make an updated video to your original video about using Winisd and taking in consideration different factors like cabin gain. By the way great video and keep up the good work.
you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great
Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.
Don't forget about vehicle specific sound resonance and acoustics. Each and every vehicle has its own cabin frequency. That's why my vehicle produces more decibels at 42hz rather than any other frequencies.
It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.
@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it
Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.
just learned that last one, i am slowly building a system for my vehicle, i started with new 6x8's front and back, they have been running off my factory head unit for 8 months now while i have been collecting the other parts for my new set up, i got the sub, amp new head unit and everything all here and i blew my front 6x8's 2 weeks ago, i didn't figure my deck put out enough to blow the speakers so i went on a 2 hour drive with bass bumping and it was sounding real good, then pop goes the speakers, now here i am buying new 6x8's again when i should be using the money to get an amp kit and what not.
I’ve seen a sundown sub in a shit $20 box off amazon just be all over the place and a $20 dual 12 inch sub from Walmart in a custom ported box hit like crazy
OK brother I got 2 12" subs rated @3000 and 2 amps rated @40001 Amp rated1000 for tweeters.is it to much or not enough? Going in a Chevy van full size. How am I doing on it. I want the thing to blow stuff up.
I have a near factory show room mint condition 2007 Cadillac CTS. But the eight speaker Bose system in it. But the 10 inch subwoofer and the back window needs replaced my dilemma is having another subwoofer put in that hole in the back window or one in a box in the trunk. I really really don’t want to take up any of my valuable trunk space with a box in the trunk style woofer! So, what can I put in the back window and that 10 inch subwoofer hall that will give me sufficient Sound. I don’t need earth shattering base that you can hear for blocks away mind you. Just some good solid base that sounds good with my Sirius XM stations I listen to in there. Lol
I bought a 1968 Buick Skylark GS and had a 47" wide x 15" deep and x 15" hight trunk area behind the spare tire to work with . With that I built a box 42ĺ x 12" x 13" and decided due to the dimensions I would go with 4 8" woofers 600 w ea. Never even thought about how I would run the set up keeping the 6.5" door speakers and adding tweeters. I thought the configuration would be easy to figure out but I'm stuck any suggestions?
Tricks the speaker so to speak into thinking that the enclosure is larger than it actually is. It may tighten up the punch and clarity of the output a bit as well
7:55 What you're describing isn't as bad in reality as it looks in theory. In general, you have to crank up a lot to get such an extreme rectangle. That's what everybody should hear. In addition, the cone does not stand still due to the mass inertia. The bigger problem is that the energy content of a rectangular signal is higher than that of a sine signal (Crest 1,414 vs 1). Another reason are the harmonic overtones of the harmonic distortion (k2,K3,..), where the membrane really does not move in proportion. So it is not recommended, but it is not as bad as many people think. Those who don't hear such extreme clipping definitely deserve their subwoofers to die. If a driver is specified as 1kW and the amp only delivers 250 Watt, nothing happens even with extreme clipping. You have to keep in mind that with the higher energy content, the power supply of the power amplifier also collapses more, which is why no more 250 watts come out. (Especially with Class-D power amplifiers)
Newschoolcovers what about a 400w alpine amp and a 1200w rms sub? I tried hooking up a tweeter with a capacitor to detect clipping (as shown by barevids) and didn’t hear anything even at full gain. I backed it off to be safe and usually have the knob 1/4-1/2 way up and don’t think I’ve ever cranked it all the way but it would be nice to know I’d be safe. I’ve heard some amps have clipping protection and will back off the power.
Hello, i'm driving a e39 sedan and tried quite a lot to have a good quality sound but still want go more and don't have any ideas. I want something like bmw f10 sound with an logic 7 without a sub with a big box. Ofc it can be but i want just deep bass from it with no chatter and courting sound. I tried 10" with a box and 2pairs of 8" on port less and ported box with good liters and all but still nothing i would admire... The main thing is the sub with a box have specific sound i don't like that cranking and boxing it feels like you hear nothing apart that sub goes wild... I have: fiio btr 30 pro (from phone bt straight to amp) Helix m four Focals 165 iss + two tweeters (installed an adapter from standard 5" to 6,5") 2x ellipses 7x9 in the back cut the holes true the trunk on sedan back window (on low pass filter) Any advice? Thanks!
with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.
When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.
Thank you Mark for another great video. I have used your tips to correctly figure out what I need it for my car. I got a pair of CT Sounds Hydro 8" subs. Worked out perfect👌,thank you Mark for your hard work. ✌️out from Modesto,CA👈😎👉
Mark I have a question. I'm getting the stuff for my first full stereo build. I have some ds18 speakers 6 1/2. Wiring with 8 ga. The speaker has the push down style connections on the speaker basket. Do you recommend just the bare with in the connector. Or do the make a special terminal. Like the 8ga step down? And is it best to go with a gold or brass compared to the standard diver aluminum terminal. I'm doing a 5 ch amp 4-6.5 and a 8 I wand to add 4- 10" subs later off another amp. But this is my starting system. I'm adding a capacitor too. I only need a 8 fared. For the complete system. With the addion of possibly 6 large subs 4-10 & 2 -12. If I got a capacitor that does like 20-30 fared. Is that bad for the system. Or will I just have lots of extra unused power. Stored in the capacitor? I have a small car. No real room for extra batteries. I amp upgrading my alt too.
Maybe I'm wrong but if adding another subwoofer with doubling the power raises 6db..... wouldn't adding 1 more set (Amp n sub) raise it another 6db? So u have 1 sub n 1 Amp n it has 100db.... wouldn't adding 2 subs with same power to each tgen add 12db? So adding 3 sets would add 18db?
ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO! I really love my JL Audio 10TW3 subwoofers. I currently have three running off their HD750/1 amp. I’d like to add a fourth sub for a balanced look lol where would you say I’m at now with db if it would matter for sound? Or is more wattage necessary now?
Well, i have bad news for you. If you hook more subwoofers to your amp, that won´t give you more sound. Because the power that you´re using is always the same, in your case, around 750 watts. You´re just wasting money.
What would be the minimum air volume for say an 8" subwoofer? Will porting help? I'm looking at putting a small box in the "trunk" of my Indian motorcycle, but I still want to be able to use it for hauling cargo, so I need to minimize the used space for the speaker.
I have a 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer in my truck with just over half of a cubic foot of air space. This is the recommended size for that particular speaker. Look for "small box" or "shallow mount" subwoofers, as they are designed for an application like yours. Look up the datasheet for the speakers you find and see the recommend air space volume, and pick one that works for you.
Myth: better magnets are better. - wrong! myth: large subs need powerful amps to drive them. wrong: they are generally more efficient, hence a lower wattage will deliver same sound output.
what he said about volume is absolutely untrue. when you turn the volume down you’re still getting the same wattage output but at a lower volume. the only way to get lower wattage output is to have a smaller amp or to turn down gain on your amp
Power is equal to current times voltage. P=IxV. Go ahead and get a multimeter and tell me what happens to current and voltage as you turn down the volume... huh... they go down.... so if two values that are multiplied by each other go down the product goes down. So turns out what I said is completely true.
Yo man. I need help please. I bought two 8" Powerbass subs, but I cant for the life of me find the correct box for it. Should i get one box with a single port for the two subs or two ported box or one sealed box.
i use a 15 inch sub for sq. and pop ,rock rap low notes sound no difference if frequencies are the same you might even say some of my grunge rock bass and country music have longer eccursions than most rap music .
One huge myth im working with is that small subs cant play loud. Well, I´ve done 141.3db with 8pcs Volvo V40 original subs in a ported enclosure, seen the same subs doing 139db with 2 of these! Been working with these subs for the last 5 years, and yeah. None of the people I played for have never guessed they were 5.25" subs..
@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?
Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal
@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off
Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.
Back in highschool i had subs to be loud and cool. Now I have a sub like you said add the bass that you door speakers can’t handle. Lol I have a kicker CompR at 600 RMS and I have it tuned down. Dynomat in doors, roof and back of cab. I’ve been told oh your stereo is loud I can barely hear it outside the truck. That comment changes when they sit in the seat.
And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.
Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.
Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.
Here’s one I heard a long while ago “Turn the gain up all the way and control the sub volume in the head unit”. Also, “capacitors make your subs hit harder” “you need to warm the sub up every time you use it” “bass boost is real”
There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D
I've tried to tell a couple buddies that a perfectly planned and installed sub under a seat will add the hard hitting bass needed/wanted if it is facing down, protected from elements (tools, feet) as opposed to facing them forward unprotected from elements.
I feel like you almost created a new myth with #2.. A 3dB increase, doubles the sound intensity, which is why adding a 2nd speaker typically gives you 3dB(sometime more). You need 10dB to double the perceived loudness. So you weren't lying, but at the same time there's a difference between sound intensity and loudness. You also need twice the power to gain 3dB, so after a certain power level, adding more speakers becomes more efficient than adding more power.
Small woofers aren't faster than large woofers. If it were faster it would be a tweeter. How tight a woofer sounds has to do with how damped the resonance is, not the size of the cone.
Good explanation of how to damage a speaker by overdriving an underpowered amplifier. This is so easy to do when the amplifier 'not quite capable' of reaching the speaker extreme rating and one tries to get there, anyway.
Couldn't stress how important the sub box is. It's more important than the sub. I started off trusting a local car audio guy and installed and he cost me thousands. I told him what kind of sound I wanted. At the time I had a 250rms system. Long story short. He put 2 12s that need 3.5 cubic feet of air space in a 2.9 cubic foot (including port are and disblasment) box and hooked it up to a 750rms amp. Subs were 750 rms each. And ran a 4 gauge from front battery all the way back. I even got a brand new excelon kenwood deck 5v output. Spent thousands, and it sounded like my 250 rms 1 older shit sub. Took me a year to fully understand sound systems. 2 blown subs later .... I finally got pissed enough and built my own box in a 1 bedroom condo w the wife yelling. Jigsawed the wholes on the lil balcony. Anyways. If I saw this video a year ago I would of saved thousands. Mark speaks the absolute truth about car audio. Thanks buddy.
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then. Do you know the difference?
I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.
Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..
Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff
You should do a review on how to spot bad subwoofer product reviews, like- "This sub sucks. Only lasted a week and blew. Only had my gains set at a touch past 3/4. 🤔
Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.
@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).
Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.
Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).
I'm 45 and have had a sub in my cars all my life. Nothing crazy like back in the 90s when I had a Sony mobile ES complete system with 1600 watts 1000 to the subs and I had 6 10 disc cd changers Daisy chained. Now my factory system is enough for me now except for the anemic factory sub. A 300 watt 8" sounds really good with the factory set up. Plus I haven't lost any space since I was able to do it in the factory location. Great video 👍.
So refreshing to see somebody posting car audio advice on youtube who ACTUALLY knows what they are talking about. Kudos! So many people feed BS in to the hobby and claim it is truth. Finding people who actually speak the truth is really, really rare. in this hobby. And on that note, why the hell are there 108 dislikes on this? There is absolutely nothing to not like here.
Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.
I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.
Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.
if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.
I really like this conversation here. I have a standard full size 2011 Ram that has a small area to have subs. I have 2 Kicker Comp RT shallow mount in a custom box. Sounds excellent for a small subwoofer enclosure and totally works better than just a subwoofer under the seat deal.
While it shouldn't be the sole deciding factor, sub size does affect sound quality. An 8 inch sub, having less mass and restriction, can move faster and provide better accuracy for fast bass (rock music) when compared to anything larger. The larger the speaker is, the easier it is to reproduce lower frequency. This comes at a trade off, worse transient response. Fast rock gets muddled by large subs, regardless of cabin size. An 8" sub will never hit as low as as a 15", regardless of cabin size.
Thanks for the clarification on underpowering a Sub. I literally just had a local car audio shop deter me from purchasing a higher rated sub for a slight upgrade
I've always used sealed enclosures but recently was given a 400w RMS 10" sub in a prefab sealed box. Running it off 350w you could barely feel/hear it from the drivers seat. Used an enclosure design website to design a slot ported box tuned to 36Hz. It hits harder, lower and shakes the car. I regret not switching years ago.
Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant. HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah. Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.
I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.
with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive. Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.
Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics. Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well. Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.
Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.
The most common myth I hear... " "X" brand is better if you want more bass". Top of the list goes to JL's, but there's a lot of brand bias with every brand out there. I certainly have my favorites!
From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.
I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.
Q.) If you have are putting 2 subwoofers into 1 sealed box do you need to separate the 2 subwoofers or double the air volume required for each subwoofer?
@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.
6. 8" sub for the "high bass" 12" sub for that "low bass" 7. "If you're using 2 subs in the same box you should always invert the polarity." 8. "If you have a sealed box you are missing out on the low end" 9. "After going ported, my 8" sub now sounds like 2 12"s" - (you never heard how 2 proper 12s sound) 10. "if your trunk ain't rattling, it's not happening"; "more rattle = louder sub" - same people that think sound treatment is a waste of money and will make their system quieter.
Remember when Best Buy had almost a quarter of their store just for car audio...
I remember circuit city had a boom room lol
Remember those dual brand subs in the bandpass box that lit up blue
@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though
Same as Radio Shack
Ohhhh I member
This guy has really helped my confidence in my first amp/sub build that i did this week, and Crutchfield is the bomb! I ordered my head unit and wiring from them, and their support knew 1000% of everything i needed to know
Great video. I think one thing you should have considered with your adding another sub analogy was amplifier final impedance. If you add another sub and it's wired in parallel with the other one, given that amplifier can handle the final impedance of them both, it's likely pushing nearly twice the wattage, this is the case with a lot of amplifiers. I'm sure you realized this, but just figured I'd mention it, great stuff man!
All the years I’ve been into car audio (as a hobby) I never fully understood clipping, or had it explained in this way. Very good info!
Basically it's forcing an amp to boost an audio signal beyond its physical capability. You're getting barely any more power beyond that turn of the gain Dial but thousands of times more distortion
rmblwgn 7:30 his graph with the smooth lines cut off on top and bottom says it all, I’ve always knew distortion kills speakers, not power, and yet that graphic of the “clipped” lines is pure genius. Thanks for chiming in.
@@woohunter1 knowing that 90% of people on the street use shitty 2channel 200 Watt amps to power their subwoofers I'm convinced that clipping is what melts voice coils. I don't know at what point I started to understand all this but it certainly wasn't when I got my first system at 16 because it took me two weeks to install a simple amp sub and radio. now 10 years later I wish I knew this basic stuff back then
The air space comment was so spot on. It's so annoying the myth that larger subs hit lower, it's stupid. Enclosure design is what yields lower response frequencies. So people wonder why stuffing 6 12s into their trunk doesn't sound as good as the 2 12s I have.
In my trunk there's probably enough room for a box for 2 15s but it's cutting it close, yet everyone is DEAD SET on getting 2 15s in these cars, they just won't listen.
Amen.
The biggest one I can think of is that YOU NEED a big system to produce big sound. In high school (2001-2005) everyone had a system. Teachers, nerds, cheerleaders, everyone. I had a 2-door 93 Skylark with a pair of 275w 3-way Pioneer 6x9’s running around 200w to each speaker. No dedicated subwoofer. It was showing up most others others 1000w 1/2x12 setups. I’d pop the trunk and people would be surprised to see it empty.
Great video very informative! Years ago I used to have a band pass box of two 10”s. I like to think out of the box and I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer me. My question is, can you put a sealed subwoofer box and have a separate box that has a band pass box? My thinking is have the nice clean sound of a sealed subwoofer yet also have it mixed with the raw behind the cone bass of a band pass box. What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks
You should make an updated video to your original video about using Winisd and taking in consideration different factors like cabin gain. By the way great video and keep up the good work.
you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great
@@hawnfire lol
Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.
But I would like a vid like this
Don't forget about vehicle specific sound resonance and acoustics. Each and every vehicle has its own cabin frequency. That's why my vehicle produces more decibels at 42hz rather than any other frequencies.
I put a 10" shallow mount sub in my truck and every person I showed it to said I need to port it or it won't sound good. Glad I didn't listen to them.
It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.
@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it
CaptainSlapaHo - Yeah, I’ve tried mine in a ported and non ported box, but imo, they sound way better non ported.
Please tell us the difference between a single or a double coil woofer
Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.
just learned that last one, i am slowly building a system for my vehicle, i started with new 6x8's front and back, they have been running off my factory head unit for 8 months now while i have been collecting the other parts for my new set up, i got the sub, amp new head unit and everything all here and i blew my front 6x8's 2 weeks ago, i didn't figure my deck put out enough to blow the speakers so i went on a 2 hour drive with bass bumping and it was sounding real good, then pop goes the speakers, now here i am buying new 6x8's again when i should be using the money to get an amp kit and what not.
Wich sub would you recommend to mount on top with no box next to regular speakers ty.
I’ve seen a sundown sub in a shit $20 box off amazon just be all over the place and a $20 dual 12 inch sub from Walmart in a custom ported box hit like crazy
In terms of the additional power and subwoofers to double the db output, does that apply to sealed and ported enclosures?
OK brother I got 2 12" subs rated @3000 and 2 amps rated @40001 Amp rated1000 for tweeters.is it to much or not enough? Going in a Chevy van full size. How am I doing on it. I want the thing to blow stuff up.
How can one check if there sub box has enough air volume I have a under seat box in a pick up but I don’t think they have enough air or power
measure HxLxW and subtract add the thickness of the mdf
I have a near factory show room mint condition 2007 Cadillac CTS. But the eight speaker Bose system in it. But the 10 inch subwoofer and the back window needs replaced my dilemma is having another subwoofer put in that hole in the back window or one in a box in the trunk. I really really don’t want to take up any of my valuable trunk space with a box in the trunk style woofer! So, what can I put in the back window and that 10 inch subwoofer hall that will give me sufficient Sound. I don’t need earth shattering base that you can hear for blocks away mind you. Just some good solid base that sounds good with my Sirius XM stations I listen to in there. Lol
I bought a 1968 Buick Skylark GS and had a 47" wide x 15" deep and x 15" hight trunk area behind the spare tire to work with . With that I built a box 42ĺ x 12" x 13" and decided due to the dimensions I would go with 4 8" woofers 600 w ea. Never even thought about how I would run the set up keeping the 6.5" door speakers and adding tweeters. I thought the configuration would be easy to figure out but I'm stuck any suggestions?
Difference in stuffing the box vs not?
Tricks the speaker so to speak into thinking that the enclosure is larger than it actually is. It may tighten up the punch and clarity of the output a bit as well
Why dont you see sub tubes anymore? (Bazookas) would putting a large sub like a 12 in a matching tube sound better then a box?
7:55 What you're describing isn't as bad in reality as it looks in theory. In general, you have to crank up a lot to get such an extreme rectangle. That's what everybody should hear. In addition, the cone does not stand still due to the mass inertia. The bigger problem is that the energy content of a rectangular signal is higher than that of a sine signal (Crest 1,414 vs 1). Another reason are the harmonic overtones of the harmonic distortion (k2,K3,..), where the membrane really does not move in proportion. So it is not recommended, but it is not as bad as many people think. Those who don't hear such extreme clipping definitely deserve their subwoofers to die. If a driver is specified as 1kW and the amp only delivers 250 Watt, nothing happens even with extreme clipping. You have to keep in mind that with the higher energy content, the power supply of the power amplifier also collapses more, which is why no more 250 watts come out. (Especially with Class-D power amplifiers)
Newschoolcovers what about a 400w alpine amp and a 1200w rms sub? I tried hooking up a tweeter with a capacitor to detect clipping (as shown by barevids) and didn’t hear anything even at full gain. I backed it off to be safe and usually have the knob 1/4-1/2 way up and don’t think I’ve ever cranked it all the way but it would be nice to know I’d be safe. I’ve heard some amps have clipping protection and will back off the power.
Hello, i'm driving a e39 sedan and tried quite a lot to have a good quality sound but still want go more and don't have any ideas. I want something like bmw f10 sound with an logic 7 without a sub with a big box. Ofc it can be but i want just deep bass from it with no chatter and courting sound. I tried 10" with a box and 2pairs of 8" on port less and ported box with good liters and all but still nothing i would admire...
The main thing is the sub with a box have specific sound i don't like that cranking and boxing it feels like you hear nothing apart that sub goes wild...
I have:
fiio btr 30 pro (from phone bt straight to amp)
Helix m four
Focals 165 iss + two tweeters (installed an adapter from standard 5" to 6,5")
2x ellipses 7x9 in the back cut the holes true the trunk on sedan back window (on low pass filter)
Any advice?
Thanks!
I just put a 2400 watt woofer box in my golf 4 and it sounds really good
This video enlightened me on a few tings. Thanks bro.
so doubling the subwoofer drivers adds 3 db increase. am i right?
MD.Mamun ur Rashid Moon correct
with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.
When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.
So the so 300 watts for an $80 sub isn’t bad. I thought 300 was low and I was gonna get a 1000 was for my single cab truck. Which should I get
Great video! I’m very excited to hear the box your designing for me (triple 12” p3’s.) keep them coming
Thank you Mark for another great video. I have used your tips to correctly figure out what I need it for my car. I got a pair of CT Sounds Hydro 8" subs. Worked out perfect👌,thank you Mark for your hard work. ✌️out from Modesto,CA👈😎👉
I Love it... ❤❤❤ Helps me a lot...
to make the bass louder just add a passive radeator or driver
Bigger sub= bigger weight of diffusor = less details in bass...
Mark I have a question. I'm getting the stuff for my first full stereo build. I have some ds18 speakers 6 1/2. Wiring with 8 ga. The speaker has the push down style connections on the speaker basket. Do you recommend just the bare with in the connector. Or do the make a special terminal. Like the 8ga step down? And is it best to go with a gold or brass compared to the standard diver aluminum terminal. I'm doing a 5 ch amp 4-6.5 and a 8 I wand to add 4- 10" subs later off another amp. But this is my starting system. I'm adding a capacitor too. I only need a 8 fared. For the complete system. With the addion of possibly 6 large subs 4-10 & 2 -12. If I got a capacitor that does like 20-30 fared. Is that bad for the system. Or will I just have lots of extra unused power. Stored in the capacitor? I have a small car. No real room for extra batteries. I amp upgrading my alt too.
Maybe I'm wrong but if adding another subwoofer with doubling the power raises 6db..... wouldn't adding 1 more set (Amp n sub) raise it another 6db? So u have 1 sub n 1 Amp n it has 100db.... wouldn't adding 2 subs with same power to each tgen add 12db? So adding 3 sets would add 18db?
3 db is double though. Is it not?
In acoustic power, yes. In perceived loudness, no.
@@94e88 ok lol ears respond non linearly so... there are trivks around feeling and perception.psycho acoustics.
in South Africa you can buy a 32000 watt monoblock . then you look at the fuses and see they're 2x 30 amps . at 12 volts . sounds like a myth to me
the thumbnail LMAOO
fantastic video, thank you!
ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO! I really love my JL Audio 10TW3 subwoofers. I currently have three running off their HD750/1 amp. I’d like to add a fourth sub for a balanced look lol where would you say I’m at now with db if it would matter for sound? Or is more wattage necessary now?
Well, i have bad news for you. If you hook more subwoofers to your amp, that won´t give you more sound. Because the power that you´re using is always the same, in your case, around 750 watts. You´re just wasting money.
TW3 need/love power! I ran a single TW3 off a JL XD600 and it was VERY happy.
mindtraveller100 @ yea that’s parts of my question, assume I’ll be getting the 1200/1
What would be the minimum air volume for say an 8" subwoofer? Will porting help? I'm looking at putting a small box in the "trunk" of my Indian motorcycle, but I still want to be able to use it for hauling cargo, so I need to minimize the used space for the speaker.
I have a 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer in my truck with just over half of a cubic foot of air space. This is the recommended size for that particular speaker. Look for "small box" or "shallow mount" subwoofers, as they are designed for an application like yours. Look up the datasheet for the speakers you find and see the recommend air space volume, and pick one that works for you.
So I have 2, 12" pioneer subs and I was offered a 10 inch JL 10w7. I feel like the 10w7 would give me more of what I'm looking for.
Mith 6: power ratings (most of the time they are fake, usually sub can handle less power than stated, same with amps.)
What is the sub at 2:05
Great video keep bringing that bass.
Myth: better magnets are better. - wrong! myth: large subs need powerful amps to drive them. wrong: they are generally more efficient, hence a lower wattage will deliver same sound output.
How truely is that smaller the subwoofer size is more acurate? and is t true that smaller subs are more situated for SQ?
I've had woofers in all my cars that j have owned. Most recent pair are a set of infinity kappa run by a jbl amp
Thank you
what he said about volume is absolutely untrue. when you turn the volume down you’re still getting the same wattage output but at a lower volume. the only way to get lower wattage output is to have a smaller amp or to turn down gain on your amp
Power is equal to current times voltage. P=IxV. Go ahead and get a multimeter and tell me what happens to current and voltage as you turn down the volume... huh... they go down.... so if two values that are multiplied by each other go down the product goes down. So turns out what I said is completely true.
Yo man. I need help please. I bought two 8" Powerbass subs, but I cant for the life of me find the correct box for it. Should i get one box with a single port for the two subs or two ported box or one sealed box.
i use a 15 inch sub for sq. and pop ,rock rap low notes sound no difference if frequencies are the same you might even say some of my grunge rock bass and country music have longer eccursions than most rap music .
The rule if you want 2x sound, CB radio distance, speed,4X power/HP rule is seen alot
One huge myth im working with is that small subs cant play loud. Well, I´ve done 141.3db with 8pcs Volvo V40 original subs in a ported enclosure, seen the same subs doing 139db with 2 of these!
Been working with these subs for the last 5 years, and yeah. None of the people I played for have never guessed they were 5.25" subs..
But why some subwoofer are 88 others 91 or others 92 dB sensitivity? What does this means?
If I remember correctly, the higher the sensitivity, the more efficiently it uses the power from the amp. Long story short
That a single 12 inch sub is ALWAYS better then two 10 inch subs.
Hello should I put polyfill inside? Or any kind of damper material? I heard that it willake the sub sounds better
A square wave dang
the sundown guy puts 20,000 watts on a single sub... it's distortion that kills your sub.
Listen to this man. He is giving 100% valid and easy to understand information. Proper enclosure volume and design plus undistorted power are tops.
he definitely knows his stuff
My favorite myth: it has competition written on it, so it must be really good!
Haha that's a classic. Usually the subwoofers labeled "competition" are the worst!
It's like reverse psychology
@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?
I've been using Crutchfield since 1988. I've never had a negative experience with them in all these years. Great company!
Ed Jackson same.
Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal
@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off
What Wizard is to Baseball cards, Crutchfield is to Car Audio..
Their customer service is the gold standard. Every company should compare themselves to Crutchfield
Myth #6 "a CEA rated 1000 watts subwoofer mean it can handle a 1000 watts CEA rated amplifier" -Mike from rockville .
@Stimpy&Ren it's only for AMPS!!! the one for subs is CEA-2010 if I'm not mistaken.
Rockville is a myth company😂😂
Everybody finding out Rockville is trash.
Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.
The 29 dislikes are from Rockville XD
Younginfamou$ lmaoo
Their running 143 strong
That hit where it hurts 😪
Lol, I do like their Amps though
You should make a video about shollow mouth subs vs regular size subs
Lol. "shollow mouth subs".
Shallow MOUNT bro... just subs with a very small footprint to work in very tight spaces.
@@spill1t
Yes, I know what shallow mount subs are. I was laughing at the spelling " shollow mouth".
@@sirnate54 lol, I know you knew.....I was actually responding to the poor OP! Haha
@@spill1t
Lol.
Back in highschool i had subs to be loud and cool. Now I have a sub like you said add the bass that you door speakers can’t handle. Lol I have a kicker CompR at 600 RMS and I have it tuned down. Dynomat in doors, roof and back of cab. I’ve been told oh your stereo is loud I can barely hear it outside the truck. That comment changes when they sit in the seat.
And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.
Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.
Your current system sounds like mine not loud outside but very audible inside.
Best type of setup
I don’t need everyone at the stoplight to shake as well, just my seats
Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.
This dude is a genius!! Wish RUclips was around when I was in high school
Here’s one I heard a long while ago “Turn the gain up all the way and control the sub volume in the head unit”. Also, “capacitors make your subs hit harder” “you need to warm the sub up every time you use it” “bass boost is real”
There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D
If yer amp is running low of juice a cap will help.
what's wrong with turning the gain up? this is what I do is it wrong?
"Bass boost" just turns everything else down
@@trevormtb9372 thats not true
jamming out to some TOOL with my alpine type r’s is like being in a bass induced heaven
alpine R are like a good surprize in your pants...yaaa!!i do world champ installs.. but a single alpine r or s....is really good and clean!!
Bros. Get the xs if u can.
I've tried to tell a couple buddies that a perfectly planned and installed sub under a seat will add the hard hitting bass needed/wanted if it is facing down, protected from elements (tools, feet) as opposed to facing them forward unprotected from elements.
I feel like you almost created a new myth with #2.. A 3dB increase, doubles the sound intensity, which is why adding a 2nd speaker typically gives you 3dB(sometime more). You need 10dB to double the perceived loudness. So you weren't lying, but at the same time there's a difference between sound intensity and loudness. You also need twice the power to gain 3dB, so after a certain power level, adding more speakers becomes more efficient than adding more power.
you should make a video on how to make a down-firing subwoofer box
Keep an eye out for my next subwoofer build ;)
@@CarAudioFabrication If you make a video of rolling your box 90 degrees on its face, I would laugh my ass off Mark.
Small woofers aren't faster than large woofers. If it were faster it would be a tweeter. How tight a woofer sounds has to do with how damped the resonance is, not the size of the cone.
A crappy amplifier with significant output impedance will have less of a damping factor and mush up the bass by letting the woofer resonate.
Tell that to an bass guitar player....
They are faster because they are lighter, not because they are smaller.
@@Dawood4 . The are lighter because they are smaller. Duh.
@@tomcolopy5565 so, you're saying size matters? 😀
Good explanation of how to damage a speaker by overdriving an underpowered amplifier. This is so easy to do when the amplifier 'not quite capable' of reaching the speaker extreme rating and one tries to get there, anyway.
If you get square subs the square clip waves wont hurt the sub🤔 just simple science!
Wouldn't inverting your speakers increase the box air volume since the speaker isn't taking up space in the box?
Yes but now you would need to make sure you have the space in your vehicle for the inverted cones.
Couldn't stress how important the sub box is. It's more important than the sub. I started off trusting a local car audio guy and installed and he cost me thousands. I told him what kind of sound I wanted. At the time I had a 250rms system. Long story short. He put 2 12s that need 3.5 cubic feet of air space in a 2.9 cubic foot (including port are and disblasment) box and hooked it up to a 750rms amp. Subs were 750 rms each. And ran a 4 gauge from front battery all the way back. I even got a brand new excelon kenwood deck 5v output. Spent thousands, and it sounded like my 250 rms 1 older shit sub. Took me a year to fully understand sound systems. 2 blown subs later .... I finally got pissed enough and built my own box in a 1 bedroom condo w the wife yelling. Jigsawed the wholes on the lil balcony. Anyways. If I saw this video a year ago I would of saved thousands. Mark speaks the absolute truth about car audio. Thanks buddy.
Thousands? That's on you lol. Wtf?
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then.
Do you know the difference?
I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.
Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..
Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff
You should do a review on how to spot bad subwoofer product reviews, like- "This sub sucks. Only lasted a week and blew. Only had my gains set at a touch past 3/4. 🤔
Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.
@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).
myth#6...subwoofers are only for the ghettos not for school boys...😂🤣
Myth??? Adding batting material to the inside of the box, makes the box respond like a larger box???
What do you mean with batting material (my english is not good enough to know what it means) cause polyfill will do something like that
Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.
Objectively - It can do if done correctly. But like everything else, if not done correctly, then the gains are minimal.
Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).
It can help a subwoofer in a box that's SLIGHTLY too small for it to behave as if it were in a SLIGHTLY larger box.
I'm 45 and have had a sub in my cars all my life. Nothing crazy like back in the 90s when I had a Sony mobile ES complete system with 1600 watts 1000 to the subs and I had 6 10 disc cd changers Daisy chained. Now my factory system is enough for me now except for the anemic factory sub. A 300 watt 8" sounds really good with the factory set up. Plus I haven't lost any space since I was able to do it in the factory location. Great video 👍.
60 cds?
Then there’s me that’s leaned how to take off my door panels in 2 minutes on the side of the road to fix a rattle.
So refreshing to see somebody posting car audio advice on youtube who ACTUALLY knows what they are talking about. Kudos!
So many people feed BS in to the hobby and claim it is truth. Finding people who actually speak the truth is really, really rare. in this hobby.
And on that note, why the hell are there 108 dislikes on this? There is absolutely nothing to not like here.
Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.
The dislikes are from Rockwell
"if you want it ported, just cut a hole in it haha.." jfc.. beyond #3 is where the real stupidity happens.
I have a question I have two subwoofers in the trunk of my car is it better to face them towards the seats or the other direction
In 25 years, I can count the number of times I've heard myth no.1 on a quadriplegics left hand.
No.3 should be the no.1 myth
Been buying from crutchfield for yeeeeaaaarrrrrrsssss. They are *definitely* worth the slight cost increase.
There are cheaper stores? That's hard to believe because Crutchfield literally gives you half of what youre buying for free
Is it true that if you live somewhere cold like Minnesota you can break your subs by playing them to loud without warming them up?
I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.
Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.
At -25 to -35 ish celsius on cold mornings it has not been a problem for me so far. Dont think ive ever come across someone whos done it either.
Kevin Stagmo yeah, you’re right.
if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.
Doug says you'll be bald before he will but I think he is wrong his hairline is way worse than yours what are your thoughts?
Bet u wouldn't say that to Douglas face nanana bobo
Leave the man alone
I really like this conversation here. I have a standard full size 2011 Ram that has a small area to have subs. I have 2 Kicker Comp RT shallow mount in a custom box. Sounds excellent for a small subwoofer enclosure and totally works better than just a subwoofer under the seat deal.
While it shouldn't be the sole deciding factor, sub size does affect sound quality. An 8 inch sub, having less mass and restriction, can move faster and provide better accuracy for fast bass (rock music) when compared to anything larger. The larger the speaker is, the easier it is to reproduce lower frequency. This comes at a trade off, worse transient response. Fast rock gets muddled by large subs, regardless of cabin size. An 8" sub will never hit as low as as a 15", regardless of cabin size.
Thanks for the clarification on underpowering a Sub. I literally just had a local car audio shop deter me from purchasing a higher rated sub for a slight upgrade
An other myth, a dual voice coil subwoofer is louder than single voice coil
I had this argument with my brother today. He swears he needs to buy DVC subs to replace his SVC subs... so he can be louder
adaboy4z I know I had that discussion with other people
HAHAHAHA
This was the first thing I thought of when he asked about other subwoofer myths that we have heard.
Mark missed this one and it's a popular one! I'm turning red cos when I first got into this whole thing I also thought that! haha
I've always used sealed enclosures but recently was given a 400w RMS 10" sub in a prefab sealed box. Running it off 350w you could barely feel/hear it from the drivers seat. Used an enclosure design website to design a slot ported box tuned to 36Hz. It hits harder, lower and shakes the car. I regret not switching years ago.
I have experienced the sealed box to have more punch but for low end hit, the ported always hit lower, ported all the way.
Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant.
HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah.
Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.
I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.
My Sparkomatic 8 track player had 60 watts. That was Awsome back then.
sparkomatic lol
Myth. That you need big subwoofers for big bass.
There's no replacement for displacement, but if you place and tune the speakers correctly you can definitley get big bass.
with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive.
Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.
Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics.
Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well.
Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.
Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.
CEA rating subs lol
The most common myth I hear... " "X" brand is better if you want more bass". Top of the list goes to JL's, but there's a lot of brand bias with every brand out there. I certainly have my favorites!
One good 10” or 12” and I’m set.
For the VAST majority of folks this works perfect! And there is nothing wrong with that!
From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.
I agree, 10 inch JLW6 gives me a headache sometimes...
I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.
Running 2 10" classic MTX Black Gold subs in a Neon.
Plenty!! Remember to enclose your rear deck speakers to keep your subs from blowing them out!!
Q.) If you have are putting 2 subwoofers into 1 sealed box do you need to separate the 2 subwoofers or double the air volume required for each subwoofer?
Having divided chambers in a sealed box is a great idea.
double air. 1cuft3 per subs = 2cuft3 box
@@2869may blow one sub, and now the other sub sees TWICE the recommended air volume. The working sub will exhibit over excursion and get damaged.
@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.
You should punch the box full of holes and add 10000 watts to every Rockville tweet and 500000 watts to every Rockville sub
6. 8" sub for the "high bass" 12" sub for that "low bass"
7. "If you're using 2 subs in the same box you should always invert the polarity."
8. "If you have a sealed box you are missing out on the low end"
9. "After going ported, my 8" sub now sounds like 2 12"s" - (you never heard how 2 proper 12s sound)
10. "if your trunk ain't rattling, it's not happening"; "more rattle = louder sub" - same people that think sound treatment is a waste of money and will make their system quieter.
6. Bigger subs handle lower bass better. an 8 wont move air like a 18
@@ImDultra Depends. What if the 8" has a larger voice coil and motor structure than the 12 or 18"? It would then get much louder and hit lower.