1) The most understandable spoken English ever. Thank you, extremely important for me as a non-native speaker. 2) Very decent and cultured expression without unnecessary affect and stupid bonbots, supported by a decent and aesthetic environment. 3) And last but not least, the content is very interesting, informative, supported by examples. I know what I'm writing about. For two years, practically every day, I've been going through RUclips about photography. These attributes are not common, they are exceptional. Big thanks.
Sheeesh, thank you so so much @milvusotis! It’s comments like this that really motivate me and keep me going with this RUclips thing! I really, really appreciate it! 🙏🏾💪🏾
Bro had to break it down down!!! i just started and i stay at 1\32 or 1\64 so far. my iso at 200. im still a rookie but i figured this out for ME works. i will keep this in mind while shooting in different arenas. basic info, just long version for people to get! thanks
Man, you hit the nail on the head!!! I used to ask other photogs with the (keep it at iso100 unless necessary mindset) what did they do with the images they were forced to shoot at higher iso's with at a wedding or something lol. Were they discarded or delivered to the client lol. And the wear and tear on equipment is real. When I first started out, I went through and bricked a few strobes and bulbs when I had that beginner's mentality. Then this old photog schooled me on how to handle my equipment and it changed my life. I haven't wore out a strobe or bulb in 15 years. I hope some other youtube photogs see and learn from this lol.
I appreciate you commenting @JEDINITE30! You're absolutely right, those higher ISO images were likely delivered and no one knew any different aside from the photographer who shot them. I put so much stress on myself when I first got into photography because there were so many things I thought I *had* to do; now I realize most of it was unnecessary.
I would only be guessing when I say C. But with the quality of light it shouldn't matter anyway. Stopped at 1:59 ... Okay. Back to the video. Clearly I couldn't tell. Even though cranking ISO is like turning up the gain. So, I've heard it explained and that made sense to me, even if you turn up the gain (ISO) clean input is clean output. So when you have super clean, high quality light coming in, the output should be the same or almost the same.
Thanks for an informative and nicely produced clip. One use case where bumping up the ISO is helpful, is when shooting over a long distance, close to the limits of the flash capability. Then subjects can be lit with the flash using higher ISO. When I shoot indoor sports where flash is not allowed, I routinely use ISO of 8000 to 16000. Filtering the pictures with AI noise reduction delivers nice and clean pictures.
Indeed, between modern sensors and readily available noise reduction, higher ISO’s aren’t something to fear. Granted I haven’t feared it well before this point, but I know super “clean” images are top priority for many.
When you factor in what is possible with AI denoise in LrC and Topaz then much higher ISO settings are reasonable. I now use Manual exposure with auto-ISO most of the time unless there is a reason not to. That has been a game changer for me. Also, you can get some interesting effects with a long exposure and flash to freeze the action at either the start or the end of the exposure. Higher ISO allows for ambient light to play a critical role in those effects. PSS - I noticed that you are in Vegas like I am, I'll be looking into your learning offerings. :)
@boftx1 I’ve been using auto-ISO for quite some time as I’ve not been one to worry about pushing ISO. I tend to use aperture priority quite often as well. I guess I just focus on the experience and capturing authentic emotion than worrying about arbitrary camera settings. 🤷🏾♂️ You’re in Vegas eh?! Let’s meet for coffee one day, DM me on IG (handle is the same as my YT).
@@AnthonyToglife Will do! I would like very much to pick your brain and compare our backgrounds (since I'm an old fart that first started with a Canon AT-1. :) )
Thank you good sir! Recycle time is usually the first thing in my mind when I set flash power, I don't want to be in a situation where my flash is lagging, especially if I'm using a speedlight using AA batteries.
I see you're out here trolling folks with the title and intro! I think this rule came over from film and was kind of true until the 5DIV ish.I never even thought about flash capacitor wear and tear. Good point.
I hadn’t trolled in a while so I figured this was the perfect video to throw it in 😂 It has cost me 6 downvotes, hahaha. I usually only have 1 or 2, if any.
Awesome video. I shoot weddings and it Aperture Priority all day unless using flash. When shooting portraits using flash I also use a ND filter so my flash doesn’t work hard.
Very true. I use a fixed aperture and shutter speed then let the camera sort out the Auto ISO. Doing it this way lets you concentrate on getting the shot, not worrying about the camera settings. Unless you end up using very high ISO then you won't notice the difference in the final image. Keeping the ISO low is an old way of thinking and technology has made it possible to change the way you shoot pics.
If I'm using a flash then I always set it to Manual Mode, then approx 1/4 power and lock the flash settings. Adjust the ISO on camera for darker / lighter shots. This works quickly on cameras where there is an ISO button on the back of the camera. (I got this from reading Scott Kelby's excellent flash book). ISO 100 is a remnant from the film days when grain (now sensor noise) was a problem - no longer the case.
In studio I think of iso 100 and 100 speed film for bright light, but like you said there is always a reason to do something different. I might want more light power without turning it up, so I'll go iso 200
I use 400, it allows me to use the flash faster because the recycle time is shorter, I never thought about 800, but it makes sense. In the past with film, you were stuck at the speed of the film already set, but now there is more flexibility.
I was told that iso was also affecting the flash power....as well as affecting the background....does it mean that the flash gets less power full and therefore more risk in motion blur from the subjects? Especially if the subjects are for example walking? great video though, Thank you so much :)
Because ISO, in simple terms, adjusts the sensor’s sensitivity to light, adjusting the ISO will indeed impact your flash. It doesn’t, however, have a direct impact on the background. Generally one would increase ISO to be able to increase shutter speed as well, as an example, so motion blur typically wouldn’t be an issue when using flash. There’s also the concept of the flash itself freezing your subject. There’s a lot of nuances to this topic, lol.
@@AnthonyToglife Thank you for replying, I still get motion blur sometime to time when i use flash and don't get why lol!.....Please make a video on that topic too ha ha ha! ( I have subscribe by the way!). Also could you let me know if when you use high speed sync with a shutter speed higher than 250, is the shutter speed than acts as freezing the subject or still acts as background effect? So confusing....lol!!
Indeed @onefrequency7774; utilizing ISO is like getting some extra "power" out of your flashes/strobes. At an absolute minimum, folks just need to understand what they have at their disposal.
i got it correctly.. when the image changed from A to B, it brightens up a little bit then darkens again from B to C then C to D stayed the same.. but the quality of the image was not at all different.. so it makes sense plus if you're using portable speedlites it will save battery and improve cycle time.. and doesn't sacrifice quality
It would be very difficult (and not useful) to provide that type of information @vixmeeker7983 because every situation will be different. It's much more important to learn and understand the nuances of flash, so you can adapt to whatever situation you're in.
I agree with your assessment! These old rules go back to the days of film and earlier digital photography. Even iso 1600 can be acceptable as long as the image isn't overexposed. This outdated concept of always shooting at iso 100 is no longer valid. A photographer would need to have a 1000-watt second strobe to consistently abide by this rule.
Thanks for your informative video. Another reason not to use ISO100 with flash is if you want to include ambient light in the background, like city lights are night. At ISO100, even with large aperture, wont be able to expose correctly for the background. I often find myself at close to ISO1000 if I was doing night photography in the city.
Not me pixel peeping the living **** out of those 4 photos of the doll. My TV and I became very close. Literally. That said, thank you for such a high value, high quality video that really helped me with some of the questions I've had. Also this is completely unrelated to the content but... DANG MAN. DANG.
Exactly @jcwsenior, ISO 800 is just about nothing these days! Now I'm curious, did you get it right because you saw something that made you pick B, or was it a good guess?
@@jimwlouavl that indeed makes sense. That was the reason I put the full size in, I figured it would be completely unfair to only put the 4 side-by-sides LOL. The question, however, do you think you would have paid attention or noticed the noise if you weren't specifically looking for it?
i saw the most change between B-C and C-D, and thought C was ISO800. just goes to show how much photography equipment has improved since the first digital cameras came out!
You are absolutely right about that. Seeing that I still have (and use) my Canon T4i, I'm able to really compare older tech with newer tech and interestingly it can be surprising on multiple fronts. There are definitely improvements, but in some instances it can be surprising how well the older tech performed.
I akaways bump up my iso when shooting with flash. Often iso 400 or iso 800, because the background would look better and with iso 800 the photo is still crisp and no noisy. The light of flash reduces noise.
I actually hardly ever shoot at ISO 100 for anything I do. I typically start out at 200. If I'm shooting in bright sunlight that's likely when I'd go down to 100. A little higher ISO gives me more flexibility with shutter speed. When it comes to flash photography with events etc, poor lighting in the space often means I'm starting at least at ISO 800 and hopefully can still keep flash power down to at least 1/4 while still trying to go lower.
Yes. Your shutter isn't open the exact amount of time between every single shot. In fact, the shutter speed setting on your camera is a general number, the actual amount of time is different across almost every single shot. Not always noticeably different, but different. Same with ISO.
@JoeBee721 noise is always going to come from the sensor (i.e. the camera). Any given lens may introduce certain characteristics to an image but ISO noise is a byproduct of the sensor.
Absolutely @onyekambonu6485! I usually shoot between f/4 and f/11 in studio so I’m rarely at ISO 100. But even if I shoot wide open, I’m still usually at ISO 200 or ISO 400 to keep my flash power down.
Sure till iso 200 with flash No noise at all with full frame camera Above that give or take a tiny noise not noticed by eye , even by topaz or dxo or ,,, you can get what you wish
You missed the point that to avoid HSS, ISO must be at lowest possible value and that's the best way of not straining a flash. In dark places, my ISO can go to 6400 to match the background light
I'd guess A! Why? Because the background appeared slightly brighter. But if you told me they're all the same picture, I'd believe you. Edit: Well I guessed wrong, no surprise here!
There’s always slight variations when changing ISO and adjusting settings to compensate. Most don’t realize aperture and shutter speed in cameras isn’t 100% accurate every time. But you support the notion that most people can’t tell, especially if they don’t have side-by-sides to compare it to.
@@AnthonyToglife Absolutely, ISO is just a detail. Sure, a good picture can be ruined by high ISO, but high shutter speed or wrong aperture can also ruin an image. I film a lot these days and sometimes my A6700 just screams at me my scene isn't bright enough even at ISO6400. The video still looks perfectly fine. Maybe I'll let it increase even further. And yes, I might need more lights. Lights are expensive!
Just letting you know DXO PhotoLab and DXO PureRaw with Deep PRIME is the best noise reduction there is even restoring loss color due to high ISO. I do like DXO PhotoLab over DXO PureRaw because there is more control with a luminance slider. I'm not a fan of the new DXO Deep PRIME xD just Deep PRIME is what I like.
Just as an FYI, ISO 50 is usually artificial and yields more noise than ISO 100. It’s meant to be used when you absolutely need one more stop of light reduction.
Hahaha, well @sebastianberes, I think most people would either get it wrong or have a lucky guess. It's near impossible to really see the difference without screenshotting the frame and zooming in haha.
1) The most understandable spoken English ever. Thank you, extremely important for me as a non-native speaker.
2) Very decent and cultured expression without unnecessary affect and stupid bonbots, supported by a decent and aesthetic environment.
3) And last but not least, the content is very interesting, informative, supported by examples.
I know what I'm writing about. For two years, practically every day, I've been going through RUclips about photography. These attributes are not common, they are exceptional. Big thanks.
Sheeesh, thank you so so much @milvusotis! It’s comments like this that really motivate me and keep me going with this RUclips thing! I really, really appreciate it! 🙏🏾💪🏾
One thing I learned here is that the higher power the flash, the longer the flash duration... this was news to me. Great video. Really appreciate it.
Indeed! Learning never, ever stops, that’s for certain!
It's true not only for flash photography but also in general. I rather have more noise in a sharp image than a clean blurry image.
You are absolutely right @sebastianberes!
This all makes sense,,,can't imagine why I didn't figure this out. Thank you!
You are most welcome @Eos Love, thank you so much for watching! 💪🏾
Bro had to break it down down!!! i just started and i stay at 1\32 or 1\64 so far. my iso at 200. im still a rookie but i figured this out for ME works. i will keep this in mind while shooting in different arenas. basic info, just long version for people to get! thanks
I usually tap out around 1/8 at the furthest extreme, and that’s mainly when using a speedlight. But you hit - do what works for you! 💪🏾
Man, you hit the nail on the head!!! I used to ask other photogs with the (keep it at iso100 unless necessary mindset) what did they do with the images they were forced to shoot at higher iso's with at a wedding or something lol. Were they discarded or delivered to the client lol. And the wear and tear on equipment is real. When I first started out, I went through and bricked a few strobes and bulbs when I had that beginner's mentality. Then this old photog schooled me on how to handle my equipment and it changed my life. I haven't wore out a strobe or bulb in 15 years. I hope some other youtube photogs see and learn from this lol.
I appreciate you commenting @JEDINITE30! You're absolutely right, those higher ISO images were likely delivered and no one knew any different aside from the photographer who shot them. I put so much stress on myself when I first got into photography because there were so many things I thought I *had* to do; now I realize most of it was unnecessary.
I would only be guessing when I say C. But with the quality of light it shouldn't matter anyway. Stopped at 1:59 ... Okay. Back to the video.
Clearly I couldn't tell.
Even though cranking ISO is like turning up the gain. So, I've heard it explained and that made sense to me, even if you turn up the gain (ISO) clean input is clean output. So when you have super clean, high quality light coming in, the output should be the same or almost the same.
That is a good explanation @brad_in_yyc! I appreciate you commenting.
Excellent advice. Thank you.
You are most welcome @shaunburnes, thank you for watching!
Thanks for an informative and nicely produced clip. One use case where bumping up the ISO is helpful, is when shooting over a long distance, close to the limits of the flash capability. Then subjects can be lit with the flash using higher ISO. When I shoot indoor sports where flash is not allowed, I routinely use ISO of 8000 to 16000. Filtering the pictures with AI noise reduction delivers nice and clean pictures.
Indeed, between modern sensors and readily available noise reduction, higher ISO’s aren’t something to fear. Granted I haven’t feared it well before this point, but I know super “clean” images are top priority for many.
When you factor in what is possible with AI denoise in LrC and Topaz then much higher ISO settings are reasonable. I now use Manual exposure with auto-ISO most of the time unless there is a reason not to. That has been a game changer for me. Also, you can get some interesting effects with a long exposure and flash to freeze the action at either the start or the end of the exposure. Higher ISO allows for ambient light to play a critical role in those effects.
PSS - I noticed that you are in Vegas like I am, I'll be looking into your learning offerings. :)
@boftx1 I’ve been using auto-ISO for quite some time as I’ve not been one to worry about pushing ISO. I tend to use aperture priority quite often as well. I guess I just focus on the experience and capturing authentic emotion than worrying about arbitrary camera settings. 🤷🏾♂️
You’re in Vegas eh?! Let’s meet for coffee one day, DM me on IG (handle is the same as my YT).
@@AnthonyToglife Will do! I would like very much to pick your brain and compare our backgrounds (since I'm an old fart that first started with a Canon AT-1. :) )
I never would have thought about recycle times. Good video
Thank you good sir! Recycle time is usually the first thing in my mind when I set flash power, I don't want to be in a situation where my flash is lagging, especially if I'm using a speedlight using AA batteries.
Excellent points, thank you!!!
You’re most welcome @JohnChubbSr, thank you for watching!
Great commentary. Totally makes sense.
Thank you so much @lorindafraboni5905, I appreciate you watching and commenting.
I see you're out here trolling folks with the title and intro! I think this rule came over from film and was kind of true until the 5DIV ish.I never even thought about flash capacitor wear and tear. Good point.
I hadn’t trolled in a while so I figured this was the perfect video to throw it in 😂
It has cost me 6 downvotes, hahaha. I usually only have 1 or 2, if any.
Awesome video. I shoot weddings and it Aperture Priority all day unless using flash. When shooting portraits using flash I also use a ND filter so my flash doesn’t work hard.
Thank you so much for watching @nycks1, much appreciated! Side note, I love using aperture priority, makes life so much easier.
Very true. I use a fixed aperture and shutter speed then let the camera sort out the Auto ISO. Doing it this way lets you concentrate on getting the shot, not worrying about the camera settings. Unless you end up using very high ISO then you won't notice the difference in the final image. Keeping the ISO low is an old way of thinking and technology has made it possible to change the way you shoot pics.
I very much appreciate you watching and commenting, thank you!
If I'm using a flash then I always set it to Manual Mode, then approx 1/4 power and lock the flash settings. Adjust the ISO on camera for darker / lighter shots. This works quickly on cameras where there is an ISO button on the back of the camera. (I got this from reading Scott Kelby's excellent flash book). ISO 100 is a remnant from the film days when grain (now sensor noise) was a problem - no longer the case.
what a great video!!!! keep em coming mate
Thank you @MusicFed! Will do!
Love your flash explanation videos. Subscribed
Very happy to hear that B! I appreciate you watching and subbing. 🙏🏾
In studio I think of iso 100 and 100 speed film for bright light, but like you said there is always a reason to do something different. I might want more light power without turning it up, so I'll go iso 200
Go crazy next time, crank it to 1000 LOL. Just kidding, whatever works best for you is ALWAYS the right decision.
I love this bro! Thank you... You have a new follower!!
I appreciate that @brianbooker9925, thank you so much!
Excellent information. Thank you for sharing 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
You are most welcome! Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
Very practical and useful information. Keep the videos coming!!
Thank you much @Fyahstarter! The vids will definitely be coming.
I use 400, it allows me to use the flash faster because the recycle time is shorter, I never thought about 800, but it makes sense. In the past with film, you were stuck at the speed of the film already set, but now there is more flexibility.
Yup, this is the biggest benefit/reason in using a higher ISO.
I was told that iso was also affecting the flash power....as well as affecting the background....does it mean that the flash gets less power full and therefore more risk in motion blur from the subjects? Especially if the subjects are for example walking? great video though, Thank you so much :)
Because ISO, in simple terms, adjusts the sensor’s sensitivity to light, adjusting the ISO will indeed impact your flash. It doesn’t, however, have a direct impact on the background. Generally one would increase ISO to be able to increase shutter speed as well, as an example, so motion blur typically wouldn’t be an issue when using flash. There’s also the concept of the flash itself freezing your subject. There’s a lot of nuances to this topic, lol.
@@AnthonyToglife Thank you for replying, I still get motion blur sometime to time when i use flash and don't get why lol!.....Please make a video on that topic too ha ha ha! ( I have subscribe by the way!). Also could you let me know if when you use high speed sync with a shutter speed higher than 250, is the shutter speed than acts as freezing the subject or still acts as background effect? So confusing....lol!!
Yeah, I noticed when I shoot with the Goboes I get better results starting at iso 400 .
Indeed @onefrequency7774; utilizing ISO is like getting some extra "power" out of your flashes/strobes. At an absolute minimum, folks just need to understand what they have at their disposal.
Great video! Where did you get the ‘free labor’ mannequin bust? Does it 3/8” hole on the bottom to fit on a light stand?
I got it on Amazon some time ago and sadly it does not have any mounting points. That’s the main negative with it.
Excellent! keep up the good work
Thank you so much! 🙏🏾
Hey man. This has been a great video that has helped me understand iso and how it affects flash power! Thanks man 👊
You are most welcome, thanks for watching and commenting!
i got it correctly.. when the image changed from A to B, it brightens up a little bit then darkens again from B to C then C to D stayed the same.. but the quality of the image was not at all different.. so it makes sense plus if you're using portable speedlites it will save battery and improve cycle time.. and doesn't sacrifice quality
Conserving battery and recycle time are definitely the two main reasons for doing this. Kudos on getting them correctly!!
Good talk about low ISO and flash. Great video!
Thank you so much Agnetha!
Thanks again very great video
You’re most welcome, thank you for watching!
Very good breakdown and info.
Thank you @wlewis5999, I appreciate you watching and commenting! 🙏🏾
I appreciate this. Can you give some examples of having a go to. For group. Distance of flash, fnumber and power? with modifiers
It would be very difficult (and not useful) to provide that type of information @vixmeeker7983 because every situation will be different. It's much more important to learn and understand the nuances of flash, so you can adapt to whatever situation you're in.
I agree with your assessment! These old rules go back to the days of film and earlier digital photography. Even iso 1600 can be acceptable as long as the image isn't overexposed. This outdated concept of always shooting at iso 100 is no longer valid. A photographer would need to have a 1000-watt second strobe to consistently abide by this rule.
That’s it exactly @stanobert3475, rules that haven’t adjusted to current technology and methodologies.
Thanks for your informative video. Another reason not to use ISO100 with flash is if you want to include ambient light in the background, like city lights are night. At ISO100, even with large aperture, wont be able to expose correctly for the background. I often find myself at close to ISO1000 if I was doing night photography in the city.
Indeed @zgravity00, I don’t think one could shoot at night and expect to have any ambient light in the shot at ISO100.
Appreciate the information. 👍🏾
You’re most welcome!
Not me pixel peeping the living **** out of those 4 photos of the doll. My TV and I became very close. Literally. That said, thank you for such a high value, high quality video that really helped me with some of the questions I've had. Also this is completely unrelated to the content but... DANG MAN. DANG.
☺️☺️☺️
Thank you so much! 🙏🏾
I’m very happy to hear this video was useful and I literally LOL’d at your comment, thank you for the laugh!
Had never thought about this. I really don’t see noise up to ISO 2500 so using 400 would be a cake walk. FWIW, I did get the ISO 800 shot right.
Exactly @jcwsenior, ISO 800 is just about nothing these days! Now I'm curious, did you get it right because you saw something that made you pick B, or was it a good guess?
@@AnthonyToglife I saw some shadow noise in the background and went with that. I noticed it in the full screen but not in the four-picture array.
@@jimwlouavl that indeed makes sense. That was the reason I put the full size in, I figured it would be completely unfair to only put the 4 side-by-sides LOL. The question, however, do you think you would have paid attention or noticed the noise if you weren't specifically looking for it?
@@AnthonyToglife I wouldn’t have. And non-photographers really wouldn’t have.
i saw the most change between B-C and C-D, and thought C was ISO800. just goes to show how much photography equipment has improved since the first digital cameras came out!
You are absolutely right about that. Seeing that I still have (and use) my Canon T4i, I'm able to really compare older tech with newer tech and interestingly it can be surprising on multiple fronts. There are definitely improvements, but in some instances it can be surprising how well the older tech performed.
Brilliant! Just discovered this channel.
Thanks G! Much appreciated.
Great Video!!
Thank you! 🙏🏾
C is 800 ISO. Sir you have a new follower
I'm glad to have you here @danielsahagun4367!
It was B
lol. Got it. If you have the eyes for it. You can tell.
Thankfully near all of my clients don't have the eye for it, lolol.
I akaways bump up my iso when shooting with flash. Often iso 400 or iso 800, because the background would look better and with iso 800 the photo is still crisp and no noisy. The light of flash reduces noise.
Same here @thomasbednarowski1651!
I actually hardly ever shoot at ISO 100 for anything I do. I typically start out at 200. If I'm shooting in bright sunlight that's likely when I'd go down to 100. A little higher ISO gives me more flexibility with shutter speed. When it comes to flash photography with events etc, poor lighting in the space often means I'm starting at least at ISO 800 and hopefully can still keep flash power down to at least 1/4 while still trying to go lower.
I agree with this 100%. I'm the same.
Is it normal that with everything in manual settings, the flash exposure is slightly different between shots even though nothing moved?
Yes. Your shutter isn't open the exact amount of time between every single shot. In fact, the shutter speed setting on your camera is a general number, the actual amount of time is different across almost every single shot. Not always noticeably different, but different. Same with ISO.
Especially with the noise reduction software available today, really is no reason to be stuck on ISO 100.
True that! 💪🏾
At higher ISO’s is it the camera or lens that introduces noise?
@JoeBee721 noise is always going to come from the sensor (i.e. the camera). Any given lens may introduce certain characteristics to an image but ISO noise is a byproduct of the sensor.
I see no noticeable noise, how come?, if I look at a photo I took today outside of a kingfisher, I used an iso of 250. There is noise there
The camera you use plays a big factor in the amount of noise present. Even at ISO 100 there’s noise though, it’s just not always easily visible.
Is it possible in the studio not to use Iso 100?
Absolutely @onyekambonu6485! I usually shoot between f/4 and f/11 in studio so I’m rarely at ISO 100. But even if I shoot wide open, I’m still usually at ISO 200 or ISO 400 to keep my flash power down.
Sure till iso 200 with flash
No noise at all with full frame camera
Above that give or take a tiny noise not noticed by eye , even by topaz or dxo or ,,, you can get what you wish
Appreciate the comment @ahmedyadam7240.
You missed the point that to avoid HSS, ISO must be at lowest possible value and that's the best way of not straining a flash. In dark places, my ISO can go to 6400 to match the background light
The point of the video wasn’t to avoid using ISO 100, it was to not arbitrarily use ISO 100. Clearly this is a case where it would make sense to. 😉
I'd guess A! Why? Because the background appeared slightly brighter. But if you told me they're all the same picture, I'd believe you. Edit: Well I guessed wrong, no surprise here!
There’s always slight variations when changing ISO and adjusting settings to compensate. Most don’t realize aperture and shutter speed in cameras isn’t 100% accurate every time. But you support the notion that most people can’t tell, especially if they don’t have side-by-sides to compare it to.
@@AnthonyToglife Absolutely, ISO is just a detail. Sure, a good picture can be ruined by high ISO, but high shutter speed or wrong aperture can also ruin an image.
I film a lot these days and sometimes my A6700 just screams at me my scene isn't bright enough even at ISO6400. The video still looks perfectly fine. Maybe I'll let it increase even further.
And yes, I might need more lights. Lights are expensive!
My guess is b
Yesss!
Boom!
You should be here in Atlanta lol
Hahaha, I'll actually be coming to Atlanta soon, working on the details now.
🤗
☺️
Just letting you know DXO PhotoLab and DXO PureRaw with Deep PRIME is the best noise reduction there is even restoring loss color due to high ISO. I do like DXO PhotoLab over DXO PureRaw because there is more control with a luminance slider. I'm not a fan of the new DXO Deep PRIME xD just Deep PRIME is what I like.
I appreciate that information @bigrobotnewsyoday1436, thank you! 💪🏾
I shoot at iso 50 with a flash
Just as an FYI, ISO 50 is usually artificial and yields more noise than ISO 100. It’s meant to be used when you absolutely need one more stop of light reduction.
B
Did you pick this based on something you saw, or was it a lucky guess @lorindafraboni5905?
I bet on A
Ha ha I lost :)
Hahaha, well @sebastianberes, I think most people would either get it wrong or have a lucky guess. It's near impossible to really see the difference without screenshotting the frame and zooming in haha.
BS!
Care to elaborate @neostephens8980? Or did you click off after the first 15 seconds? ;-)
😁The first 10 seconds 🤣🤣
@@neostephens8980 hopefully you went back to watch the rest of it 😂
B
I'm so late in responding to my comments that I don't even know what the correct answer was anymore, LOLOL.