Transferring Photos Onto Wood
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 май 2013
- Using matte gel medium, ( www.amazon.com/dp/product/B000... ) you can easily transfer printed photos directly onto a piece of wood. I share with you what I've learned in the few projects I have done using this process. Don't forget to subscribe to this channel and if you'd like to see more of my woodworking projects, check out my projects page at lumberjocks.com/CueballRosenda....
In case you're curious, the flowers in the picture are Blue Flax and I chose the phrase Carpe Diem because this flower loses its bloom after one day and is replaced with a new flower the next day. The photo of me and the wife was a selfie I took during the annual Labor Day Bridge Walk in Mackinaw City, Michigan a few years ago.
Music is titled "In Acoustic Circles" and is used under license, royalty free, through AudioMicro.com 
Хобби
You're welcome! Another good point in the video is the fact that not every single tiny paper particle will come off, and that's ok. I was stumped by this part too when I got to it, but started applying mod podge after I saw th this video! The points of the video that I mentioned are pretty important in the process that other tutorials don't bring up.
You're welcome. I didn't want the video to be so long, but the others who showed the process left out some important details. Have fun making stuff!
Fabulous tutorial! I've watched so many wood-transfer tutes that don't tell you how they printed the art work, what type of paper they used, what type of wood was used, etc. that I'd be totally wealthy if I had a dime for every one of them...and NONE of them mentioned or suggested clamping the project while it cures, which makes complete sense. Lots of them never applied a gloss urethane finish either!
One thing...I think I'd use just a bit more of the transfer medium than you used in the tutorial, although that's a bit of a quibble that only a bit of experimentation can answer. I don't care a fig about what excess medium squishes out around the edges of the transfer, because that's easily cleaned up.
In any case, thank you, Matt! You're really a "natural" when it comes to creating tutorials.
I just did this photo transfer method today. None of the video tutorials/blogs I researched explained that you shouldn't smooth out really firm to the point that mosr of the medium seeps out. I thought I had all the steps down until I got to that step and didn't know what to do! Thankfully I didn't smooth it too much. Glad this video explained that part, so I know for next time!
Thanks for sharing your experience Mary. I thought the same thing and was reluctant to put up such a long video, but I figured more information was better than less.
Thanks for this, I had a bit of trouble and you've answered my questions
I have just begun experimenting with wood photo transfer. This video is perfect! When I noticed the hazy coloring left, I wanted to keep peeling and began to lose some of the image. As soon as I sealed it with a liquid varnish, voila! After watching this, I sure hope my images stay from last night because I pressed bubbles out like I was trying to squeeze into tight jeans. Ha.
Seriously, a thorough and well made tutorial. Thanks!
1lovescats Thanks. I worried that it was too long, but there were some critical steps. I have also used lacquer thinner wiped on the back of the paper for a quick transfer but it doesn't work well for complicated and colorful pictures. The trick to that method is to run the paper through the laser printer twice so you have a double layer of toner. Good luck with it and thanks for watching.
thanks for the video. It was really helpful
Thanks Matt! When I try it I wll!
Thank you so much. I had a friend ask me to do this with a wedding photo. I should have thought to mirror the photo. Its ok off to kinkos again tomorrow. :)
Good luck with the project! I'm putting together a video of another photo project where I made wooden cubes with photos glued to them with Mod Podge. I wanted a clever way to display sets of photos, so I made a cube for each of our kids, our pets, a favorite vacation, etc. The video should be done this weekend.
Matt KnowsThat I forward to seeing that.
Hi Matt, great vid! Matt, do you know if I can use this technic over a painted wood? Thanks!
You could really use anything to protect it. An outdoor spar urethane would protect it well outside. Just beware that if it will be exposed to UV sunlight, you should make sure the coating has a UV blocker in it.
Thanks!!
Yes, but make sure it's not heavier than about 24lb because the water won't soak through all the way and it'll be tough to peel off. I used plain white printer paper.
On the oak, you could try some wood filler on the board to fill in the open pores then sand it down, which ive done a time or two to get nice glass like finish on oak. I'm not sure how the picture would react to the filler though...
Cheers Matt! I tried my first last night and today and none of them really turned out well. Paper just kept coming off...Probably rubbing too hard but you answered some questions I had! I was using ink jet, going to try get some laser prints now and apply modpodge after the print is finished. If it works I will be combining my photography and poetry together so I really need to find a way to make this work!
dont use ink jet printer inted use laser printer
Cheers!
Can you use a wether proof coat so you could hang them outside? Or does the polyurethane protect it?
Could I use mod podge as the transfer medium and can I rub my picture off with a sponge just a minute after letting my picture dry on the wood? Or would I have to wait 24 hours like it says in other videos before taking my picture off the wood with a sponge? Thanks!
GOTTA use a color laser. Ink jet does not work. You can go to Staples or Kinkos and they'll run a color laser page for you for a buck or two if you don't have access to a good printer. The wood is not really an issue, you can use some pre cut pieces of pine available at the craft store and it should work fine. Sorry you had bad luck, but don't give up. My first ones looked crappy too.
can i do this with stained wood?
I don't think it would work as well because the first step needs to soak into the pores of the wood. You could try it, but make sure the paint is really dull or scuffed up with sandpaper. Another method might be to use some very light, watered down paint, but if you just want color in the base wood, you could use some colored stain which would leave the pores of the wood exposed. Good luck, come back and post if you figure it out.
What kind of fly hood do you used?
Great video, thanks for sharing. Can I do this same process on stained wood? Do you think the image would come out darker?
You could probably do it on stained wood, but not finished wood. If there's any polyurethane or other clear finish, it would not work as well.
can I use Matte paper?
I used 20 lb paper, pine wood sanded it..clamped it..but as soon as I add water ink leaks...the only time ink didnt leak and I was able to do 1 and keep that one after ruining 3 others..was when i had a laser copy printed....
As I said in the video, you can't use ink jet. Gotta be laser. Run down to Staples/Kinkos and spend a buck and a half on some color laser prints if you don't have access to one.
Alright this is really cool because I have been trying to find a way to get my photos on wood but i have a couple questions. Can the image have been already printed many days before you do it? Also can this work for really large images onto maple that is 10in by 40in? Would this work if you need to put fiberglass on the wood? Last question would this be hard to do with wood that is curved? I am wondering because I am trying to build longboards and wondering if some of the pictures I take or pictures people give me could go on those longboards.
Printed days before: No Problem as long as its LASER not inkjet! Large images: Sure, but that's a lotta work. Glass over top: sure, the fiberglass is clear anyway, might make the photos a bit fuzzier though since the surface coats are so thick. Curved, no sweat. I thought about doing something like this on the deck of a wooden kayak or canoe. I'd stick with small images. If you wanted a really crisp big graphic, have it printed on vinyl sign material then cover it with the glass.
Anyone have any idea why this video won't play on mobile devices?
Could I use mod podge instead of the Gel Medium you are using in order to transfer my lazer jet printed colored pictures?
+FourD I think MP is actually a thinned down gel medium anyway, so I don't see why you couldn't. You'll have to be careful that the mod podge doesn't soak in too much. That would be my only concern that it would saturate the paper instead of just the surface with the toner. It may also raise the grain of the wood surface and make it rough. To combat that, woodworkers typically raise the grain of the wood by wiping it with a wet rag, let it dry, then VERY LIGHTLY sand off the fuzz that arose from the water wipe. Then when the mod podge or other finish goes on, it will raise the grain much less.
materials?
Would this work on wood painted with an acrylic craft paint first, then applying the gel medium over that? I want a white background with text. Tried printing on tissue paper to mod podge over, but the tissue paper gets to wrinkled. Hoping this technique will work instead.
Jessica, I think it would, but don't lay down too thick a layer of paint first so there will still be some wood grain and pores. I would also be sure to use flat paint, not anything glossy that would be a slick surface. It might take some experimentation before you get a good result. Good Luck and let us know how it comes out.
Hi :-D Nice video Matt. I've experimented with this technique for years, with different parameters reg paper and acrylic (gel.medium) If one try to adhere to a glossy surface AND with gloss medium the picture come off easier, so I suggest do with matt or semigloss. Then coat with gloss if desired. Think of using a topcoat that does not yellow over time? I also used this method on slabs of granite :-D And on underpainting on paper, canvas, raw canvas etc. Works fine. Trick that makes the photos pop is to paint a thin (and even) layer on the wood/support ....OR.... the paper with INTERFERENCE COLOR (caution: if on the paper it must be applied just minutes before "marrying" to the support, must still be wet, or one get a fragile layer containing the pigments and it rubs off to easily) The result is a bit like silver-prints and can be very delicate depending on choice of color and application. Blue or orange interference fine by Golden is a good choice, they have a Gold interference that makes part of the picture glow and sparkle... and one still see the woodgrain/whatevermateriale, because interference paint go almost invisible at different angles and are more solid seen from others.
Thanks for the extra input Kristin. Maybe you should make a video update for the technique. I only did it to a couple pieces, but I'd like to experiment with it a little more.
Matt, great video. Kristin, I have no idea what you are talking about. lol
Thank you Kristin and Jeff. I'm still experimenting with the process, I'll try some gloss when I get a chance.
can you tell me where to find the gel you are using, I have gone to micheal's and joanne and can't find it. thank you
I bought mine at Hobby Lobby but they also sell it here at Michaels (in Lansing Michigan). The first link in the description is a source on Amazon but it was cheaper locally. I think I spent $12 or so and it's $18 on Amazon but thats because the shipping is included and it costs extra to ship liquids.
That's why he said to use Laser!
did you put the whole board in the bucket of water? never saw that before. your camera did not show how you did it
+Paul Alberti No, I just used a very damp cloth to get the surface wet.
Seems to be playing okay now, please comment if you have ANY trouble playing this video.
will gloss gel medium work as well?
I assume gloss would work. I never tried it. Please let us know if it does. Thanks for asking Derek.
Matt KnowsThat I know this is a year old, but anyway. - I thought that any acrylic medium or gel would also make the remaining paper seem to disappear and look just as it does when wet, but unfortunately, as soon as my acrylic medium on top dried, the remaining paper showed back through again. Maybe just a difference in acrylic vs polyurethane? The poly keeps a wet look, whereas the Golden and Liquitex acrylic mediums I have seem to give a more "dry" look, even the gloss in my experience. I'd prefer to use acrylic medium since it's made for art and doesn't fade or discolor the art, and will not fade or yellow over time. I can also build up the acrylic and put whatever texture I want into it and finish it off with a UV protectant acrylic coating. I've found another way to do it with acrylic and get a great image, it's just not as simple as this as it requires more layers and a couple extra steps. It also ends up with a much thicker coating on top of the image, and in many cases, what you have here with only a thin coating is more desireable, as it looks as if the image is printed directly onto the wood. I may just have to try polyurethane on my next batch and see how that works, then I'd have 2 good methods to choose from, each with different results.
If anyone has an acrylic medium that worked as well to hide the remaining paper as this polyurethane did, plese let me know. One possible solution might be to first spray the transfer with water-based poly, then after that dries, add the acrylic to the top of that. I'm not sure how acrylic and poly work together, but if the first thin coat of polyurethane was water-based, the acrylic may work on top of it.
Thanks for the long comment and detail. As long as the finish is completely cured, you should be able to apply oil based over water based clear finishes without issue. I'm a big fan of spray polyurethane, acrylic, enamel, and lacquer. They go on easy, and dry fast. I think crafters get too wrapped up in wipe on water based finishes and miss out on the easy finishes woodworkers use.
Matt KnowsThat Thanks. I'm going to get a few cans of polyurethane spray and try in the next few weeks. It can be really frustrating trying things and not having them work the way you intend, but really rewarding when it goes right. You would think it would be easy for an art company to come out with a good, affordable product that would do a truly professional transfer job, especially to a flat surface like wood, but the only one I've seen is quite pricey and I think uses some fairly harsh chemicals. I do photography, but especially in small town art festivals I participate in, many people like crafty wood items instead of normally framed photos and conventional artwork, and I've got decent woodworking skills and access to lots of great woods and tools, so I'm trying to get together a larger variety of art made with my photos that I can offer. There are lots of projects I want to do, many of them pretty large, so I'm still working on figuring out the best methods of transfer to use for them. Being able to see the paper left over or having portions of the image missing just aren't good for me in most cases, unless I'm specifically going for a rustic or weathered look. I'm probably much more particular than most people who do this, as I want them to be true pieces of art rather than just crafty items for myself. Looking forward to trying a lot of new stuff this year though. Thanks again!
Sorry, the link didn't work. The video is called "How To Transfer An Inkjet Print Onto Wood". Just look for it here on youtube. I'll try it over painted areas :)
Mine was a disaster. Don't know what kind of wood it was, bought it at Hobby Lobby. First my fingers looked purple after rubbing the paper for awhile, freaked me out at first but I think it may have been the ink from paper (hope?!) I'm going to try it again, may sand off my mistake and try something abstract not a family photo so maybe I can salvage it.
P.S. maybe it was inkjet, I'll try laser next time. I love this project tho, and I'm not giving up!
LASER ONLY. I always wanted to try it with a cheap magazine or newspaper photo, but keeping in mind that it would be backwards/inverted. If you don't have a laser printer, you can have a page printed for about a buck at Staples. Don't give up, it's a very cool project with a lot of possibilities. With a laser printer, you can print off old advertisements and logos and make your own new antiques.
TRIED IT 3 TIMES AND EVERY TIME I GO TO ADD WATER ALL THE INK SMEARS FROM MY INKJET PRINTER
You could remove the wood's color from the image before you print it, maybe
***** I don't think you can use this photo transfer method with a painted fabric. Your paint is likely water based and the process would dissolve the paint and rub it off. Your only option now might just be to glue a picture to the box. It might be neat to print the picture on 1/4" thick foam board and cut the people and shapes of the picture instead of just cutting a square border. That way they will stand out. I used regular cheap 20lb printer paper, but the printer MUST be a laser printer, not ink jet.
everybody makes it look so easy, but you use specific wood and probably a more commercial type printer..I have cannon mg5320 and again water and ink jet do not mix..lots of smears..extremely disappointed